Millions of years ago, I had two PCs with Voodoo Banshee each and I remember playing thousands of hours online against my brother in Drakan: Order of Flame. Those dragons were fighting with all fury.
Blink and you miss the chip drop @ 1:20, when the solder melts. Impressive video! My Diamond Monster Fusion is still kickin' as well as my Diamond Stealth II! Ahhh Glide and Verite!
Nice, the Banshee is my favorite GPU. Now if you can take a backwards compatible PS3 and swap those old hot energy hungry CELL and RSX chips from newer ones from the PS3 Slim :-)
Great work. I was worried that you wouldn't succeed. I'm glad it came together. Banshees are so cool. Even cooler with active cooling.
2 года назад+1
I have tried it before on another stone dead banshee with VGA beeps but its hard to know if the GPU is just dead or the PCB too. I had on that tried before but eventually it seems that all other components was fine so that PCB probably had some internal damage I think so not even a working GPU would make that card post. But this one I managed to find all working parts and its a creative with fancier ram so thats nice. Figured it was better to get the least damaged GPU and the best PCB/RAM combo and make on working card from two dead and damaged cards.
Hell yeah great job once again brother, I recently got another v5 5500 and it had a missing 470uf cap so I replaced it with a low esr tantalum and made the mistake of putting it on backwards lol oops. Upon power on the cap exploded violently and it lit on fire for a second before I blew it out. Amazingly I replaced it again (this time in the correct orientation haha) and the card still works. Still mad at myself for putting it on backwards as I knew the orientation I just wasn’t paying attention :-( too excited to get it to work I guess haha.
2 года назад+1
Yea I put a SMD electrolytic on the wrong way the other day on a another Bnashee I fixed the PCB on, all caps where beaten to death to, The card posted fine then I noticed it and just swapped it out for a new one. Shit happens but best to double check and triple check. My friends 286 board blew 4 tantalum's when we where going to test it out, that board looked like NEW but well caps where not as good as they looked, fire works and burn marks in my desk XD Did replace them all and the board worked, also did SIPP to SIMM ram slots upgrade on that board to for him and CMOS mod I if I recall.
@ whoa very nice!! I don’t own any 286/386/486 boards. My first pc was a 486/66dx Matter of fact it was a performa with a dos card in it, pretty awesome actually
2 года назад+2
@@computerbooter1566 My first system was a Pentium 166, family computer. But we did have 286 to 486 in school and some Pentiums. Now I have two working 486 systems and one board for testing. 486 are fun because the first FPS games with lan support came around then plus I always found it pretty easy to jumper stuff, set IRQ's and stuff on the ISA/VLB cards and just like the fact that I can swap board, or move cards around and window dont care, no resource change. I always preferred my systems being "dumb" instead of auto config stuff.
Nice how you did all this with hot air and generic stencils only. I think I need to get into reballing, too. Got any info on the equipment you're using? Any suggestion on the stencils and size of balls I should get for working on retro boards and cards from the early 2000nds?
2 года назад+1
Well Im really not the right person to ask for reball advice, I have done Memory IC's and now a GPU so Im new to this too. My channel is about doing old mods and repairs and document them in a more modern form, there not professional videos by a pro. But wit that sad this is what I use to do the reballing. I use the ATTEN 862D hot air station. Louis Rossman and The Cod3er that runs rework businesses (they are on youtube) uses it as a professional station and its fairly cheap for what you get. www.atten.eu/product/1150852/atten-st-862d-hot-air-station Then I got the cheapest hot plate I could on ebay. Search ebay for "hotplate 853A" and you should find it, there is a seller in Germany that have them for 86€ plus shipping, or you can buy them from the china sellers. You can probably get what ever you want there or even make your own. I made my own arm to hold the hot air nozzle for example. I have this hot plate, there are YT reviews around for it you search. Its a cheap china product so the material quality is okay but the really dont do any QC on assembly so lose wires was an issue for me, my temp sensor wires where lose in there connectors so soldered them to the connector instead. So if your willing to open it up and make sure its put together right it seems to be the cheaper option right now, they get fairly expensive if you want high end stuff. Now I have seen this or a similar hotplate with an infrared head and maybe a hot air station integrated in the 150€ range so you can look in to getting something like that, no idea how well they work but infrared seems to be the more professional way to go but well Im on a budget so I try to do more with less. I bought a reball kit on ebay for about 80€, whit balls and 10x generic stencils and they seem to work for anything this old. Try searching ebay for "blue bga reballing kit 90*90mm station stencil universal 10/pcs" and you should find them. I used 0.4mm balls for DDR BGA ram for GFX card, the banshee used 0.76mm I think BUT my 0.76mm stencil has smaller holes then that so I used 0.65mm balls instead. So that seems to be the sizes I use atm. I would suggest checking out how professionals on YT do reballing and see what speaks to you and buy gear that fits a method you want to use. Seems to be more then one way of doing it so.
@ Thanks for the helpful details. They way you did it is professional enough for me. I'll get myself that blue station, balls and stencils. Pretty cheap stuff on ali. I'll do some experiments with my current cheap hotair first. I have an AGP X800 Pro and a 9500 here that both run but show major artifacts. The usual "heatgun the core" bandaid, that already worked countless of times for me, did do absolutely nothing for those cards, so I suspect true RAM failures this time. I know those are cheap cards barely worth the effort, but I really don't want to throw them away. They will make good test candidates. If I just knew a way to figure out which of the RAM chips are having trouble...
2 года назад
@@Shmbler Yea artifacting has been ram related for me most of the time, very often bad solder joints, but also bad chips. I did reball and replace a ram chip in this video if you have not seen it. ruclips.net/video/bYbBvVN4ZDo/видео.html The original chip after 2 reball attempt was still artefact so chips do die from time to time so a donor was used. Idk if I sad it in the video but my goal was to hit about 200C on the GPU on the 280C profile. I used my multimeter and a temperature probe next to the chip when dialling in the temperatures on a "practice board". So yea if your gonna reball a gpu for example thats how I got my temperature profiles for the hotair station, whit out that one is flying blind more or less.
Sadly my banshee is near dead (attempted hot gun trick and someone bumped table, ram and main gpu fell off) I may attempt this if I get enough confidence too
2 года назад
That is unfortunate. Well there is not much to lose now right? Give it a try if you have the stuff for it! Have a good day now :)
i wonder how hot the PCB assembly machines gets when all components are initially soldered to the board. the idea of necessary high heat to set all components in the first place is intriguing. how hot can these parts get, and how much damage can be done?
2 года назад
This was my first GPU transplant and successful reballing of something bigger then a RAM IC so have that in mind, where all learning, me too. My target temperature for the GPU was about 200C because the leaded solder melts at like 183-188C. I did work out those temperatures using an old router PCB with a BGA SoC on it. Put a temperature sensor next to the chip and aimed for 200C and thats how I found out about 280C @ 40mm away was what I needed for the last profile to do the actual soldering (melting of the leaded tin). So yea 200C or so, with leaded solder melting at a lower temperature then modern lead free I suppose its less risky to damage old stuff. High heat can de-laminate the PCB and chips packaging and discolor the PCB. Not preheating the PCB with a board heater or having a to big temperature difference between the hotplate and the hot air station can cause warping. One might also have to dry the chips in an oven for a day or two at low temps because they can accumulate moisture if not stored in a sealed bag and that can basically create blisters when the water turns to steam and de-laminate and destroy the chip. So yea damage can be made and I would suggest practicing on old broken stuff, but even so success at first try it probably not likely, thats why I like getting the stuff that people dont want because its trashed.
Impressive. What solder wick and resin gel do you use? The stuff which I got via Ebay is garbage. Good solder wick, which has embedded resin, works really well. I really should buy from a trusted source.
2 года назад
I use Amtech flux, same as louis rossman sells. Idk if its good enough for reballing but thats what I had, sno no special gel used. Need to look in to that more later. Yea most Amtech flux on ebay is fake they say, I managed eventually to get some. Wick, I cant remember, some cheap stuff from Conrad, I did buy a new roll, 30m that Im going to test so dont know how well that works right now.
@@SomeAngryGuy1997 Yes I do that, however the flux I found on Ebay isn't liquid but solid. It has to be melted into the bad solder wick, but then it does help enormously. Also it leaves a lot of horrible residue behind. I need to find some of the liquid flux shown in the video. I did have one reel of really good solder wick, which contained a proper amount of flux, but I now don't know which one it is :-(
2 года назад
@@migry if you can buy it from Rossmann store.rossmanngroup.com/blog/flux-soldering-tools.html
Will do as soon as I can afford to do new projects and videos. I have had other expenses lately that had to take priority. But as soon as I saved up to a new project I will make videos again.
Millions of years ago, I had two PCs with Voodoo Banshee each and I remember playing thousands of hours online against my brother in Drakan: Order of Flame. Those dragons were fighting with all fury.
Blink and you miss the chip drop @ 1:20, when the solder melts. Impressive video! My Diamond Monster Fusion is still kickin' as well as my Diamond Stealth II! Ahhh Glide and Verite!
Beautiful repair. I love 3Dfx repair videos. They are always makes me happy. 3dfx Interactive was exceptional
Nice, the Banshee is my favorite GPU. Now if you can take a backwards compatible PS3 and swap those old hot energy hungry CELL and RSX chips from newer ones from the PS3 Slim :-)
Didn't get a 3d accelerator til a Voodoo 2, but it's nice watching fixes like this.
Great work. I was worried that you wouldn't succeed. I'm glad it came together.
Banshees are so cool. Even cooler with active cooling.
I have tried it before on another stone dead banshee with VGA beeps but its hard to know if the GPU is just dead or the PCB too. I had on that tried before but eventually it seems that all other components was fine so that PCB probably had some internal damage I think so not even a working GPU would make that card post.
But this one I managed to find all working parts and its a creative with fancier ram so thats nice. Figured it was better to get the least damaged GPU and the best PCB/RAM combo and make on working card from two dead and damaged cards.
Thanks for documenting this so well, well filmed, nice work, thank you.
Fantastic work, well done!
Hell yeah great job once again brother, I recently got another v5 5500 and it had a missing 470uf cap so I replaced it with a low esr tantalum and made the mistake of putting it on backwards lol oops. Upon power on the cap exploded violently and it lit on fire for a second before I blew it out. Amazingly I replaced it again (this time in the correct orientation haha) and the card still works. Still mad at myself for putting it on backwards as I knew the orientation I just wasn’t paying attention :-( too excited to get it to work I guess haha.
Yea I put a SMD electrolytic on the wrong way the other day on a another Bnashee I fixed the PCB on, all caps where beaten to death to, The card posted fine then I noticed it and just swapped it out for a new one. Shit happens but best to double check and triple check.
My friends 286 board blew 4 tantalum's when we where going to test it out, that board looked like NEW but well caps where not as good as they looked, fire works and burn marks in my desk XD
Did replace them all and the board worked, also did SIPP to SIMM ram slots upgrade on that board to for him and CMOS mod I if I recall.
@ whoa very nice!! I don’t own any 286/386/486 boards. My first pc was a 486/66dx Matter of fact it was a performa with a dos card in it, pretty awesome actually
@@computerbooter1566 My first system was a Pentium 166, family computer.
But we did have 286 to 486 in school and some Pentiums.
Now I have two working 486 systems and one board for testing.
486 are fun because the first FPS games with lan support came around then plus I always found it pretty easy to jumper stuff, set IRQ's and stuff on the ISA/VLB cards and just like the fact that I can swap board, or move cards around and window dont care, no resource change.
I always preferred my systems being "dumb" instead of auto config stuff.
Amazing work as always!
very nice.
great job! I wish I had skills like that
Nice how you did all this with hot air and generic stencils only. I think I need to get into reballing, too. Got any info on the equipment you're using? Any suggestion on the stencils and size of balls I should get for working on retro boards and cards from the early 2000nds?
Well Im really not the right person to ask for reball advice, I have done Memory IC's and now a GPU so Im new to this too.
My channel is about doing old mods and repairs and document them in a more modern form, there not professional videos by a pro.
But wit that sad this is what I use to do the reballing.
I use the ATTEN 862D hot air station. Louis Rossman and The Cod3er that runs rework businesses (they are on youtube) uses it as a professional station and its fairly cheap for what you get.
www.atten.eu/product/1150852/atten-st-862d-hot-air-station
Then I got the cheapest hot plate I could on ebay.
Search ebay for "hotplate 853A" and you should find it, there is a seller in Germany that have them for 86€ plus shipping, or you can buy them from the china sellers.
You can probably get what ever you want there or even make your own.
I made my own arm to hold the hot air nozzle for example.
I have this hot plate, there are YT reviews around for it you search.
Its a cheap china product so the material quality is okay but the really dont do any QC on assembly so lose wires was an issue for me, my temp sensor wires where lose in there connectors so soldered them to the connector instead.
So if your willing to open it up and make sure its put together right it seems to be the cheaper option right now, they get fairly expensive if you want high end stuff.
Now I have seen this or a similar hotplate with an infrared head and maybe a hot air station integrated in the 150€ range so you can look in to getting something like that, no idea how well they work but infrared seems to be the more professional way to go but well Im on a budget so I try to do more with less.
I bought a reball kit on ebay for about 80€, whit balls and 10x generic stencils and they seem to work for anything this old.
Try searching ebay for "blue bga reballing kit 90*90mm station stencil universal 10/pcs" and you should find them.
I used 0.4mm balls for DDR BGA ram for GFX card, the banshee used 0.76mm I think BUT my 0.76mm stencil has smaller holes then that so I used 0.65mm balls instead.
So that seems to be the sizes I use atm.
I would suggest checking out how professionals on YT do reballing and see what speaks to you and buy gear that fits a method you want to use.
Seems to be more then one way of doing it so.
@ Thanks for the helpful details. They way you did it is professional enough for me. I'll get myself that blue station, balls and stencils. Pretty cheap stuff on ali. I'll do some experiments with my current cheap hotair first. I have an AGP X800 Pro and a 9500 here that both run but show major artifacts. The usual "heatgun the core" bandaid, that already worked countless of times for me, did do absolutely nothing for those cards, so I suspect true RAM failures this time. I know those are cheap cards barely worth the effort, but I really don't want to throw them away. They will make good test candidates. If I just knew a way to figure out which of the RAM chips are having trouble...
@@Shmbler Yea artifacting has been ram related for me most of the time, very often bad solder joints, but also bad chips.
I did reball and replace a ram chip in this video if you have not seen it.
ruclips.net/video/bYbBvVN4ZDo/видео.html
The original chip after 2 reball attempt was still artefact so chips do die from time to time so a donor was used.
Idk if I sad it in the video but my goal was to hit about 200C on the GPU on the 280C profile.
I used my multimeter and a temperature probe next to the chip when dialling in the temperatures on a "practice board".
So yea if your gonna reball a gpu for example thats how I got my temperature profiles for the hotair station, whit out that one is flying blind more or less.
@@Shmbler I have seen a recent video where the faulty ram got way too hot on a voodoo 2. so maybe check temps.
Sadly my banshee is near dead (attempted hot gun trick and someone bumped table, ram and main gpu fell off) I may attempt this if I get enough confidence too
That is unfortunate.
Well there is not much to lose now right? Give it a try if you have the stuff for it!
Have a good day now :)
i wonder how hot the PCB assembly machines gets when all components are initially soldered to the board. the idea of necessary high heat to set all components in the first place is intriguing. how hot can these parts get, and how much damage can be done?
This was my first GPU transplant and successful reballing of something bigger then a RAM IC so have that in mind, where all learning, me too.
My target temperature for the GPU was about 200C because the leaded solder melts at like 183-188C.
I did work out those temperatures using an old router PCB with a BGA SoC on it.
Put a temperature sensor next to the chip and aimed for 200C and thats how I found out about 280C @ 40mm away was what I needed for the last profile to do the actual soldering (melting of the leaded tin).
So yea 200C or so, with leaded solder melting at a lower temperature then modern lead free I suppose its less risky to damage old stuff.
High heat can de-laminate the PCB and chips packaging and discolor the PCB.
Not preheating the PCB with a board heater or having a to big temperature difference between the hotplate and the hot air station can cause warping.
One might also have to dry the chips in an oven for a day or two at low temps because they can accumulate moisture if not stored in a sealed bag and that can basically create blisters when the water turns to steam and de-laminate and destroy the chip.
So yea damage can be made and I would suggest practicing on old broken stuff, but even so success at first try it probably not likely, thats why I like getting the stuff that people dont want because its trashed.
Impressive. What solder wick and resin gel do you use?
The stuff which I got via Ebay is garbage. Good solder wick, which has embedded resin, works really well. I really should buy from a trusted source.
I use Amtech flux, same as louis rossman sells. Idk if its good enough for reballing but thats what I had, sno no special gel used. Need to look in to that more later.
Yea most Amtech flux on ebay is fake they say, I managed eventually to get some.
Wick, I cant remember, some cheap stuff from Conrad, I did buy a new roll, 30m that Im going to test so dont know how well that works right now.
If you add flux to your solder wick, it will work much better
@@SomeAngryGuy1997 Yes I do that, however the flux I found on Ebay isn't liquid but solid. It has to be melted into the bad solder wick, but then it does help enormously. Also it leaves a lot of horrible residue behind. I need to find some of the liquid flux shown in the video. I did have one reel of really good solder wick, which contained a proper amount of flux, but I now don't know which one it is :-(
@@migry if you can buy it from Rossmann store.rossmanngroup.com/blog/flux-soldering-tools.html
Patrick we miss u please upload new videos
Will do as soon as I can afford to do new projects and videos.
I have had other expenses lately that had to take priority.
But as soon as I saved up to a new project I will make videos again.
Your channel is pure gold. I do have 125mhz edo memory for voodoo 2 mod. How can I get in touch with you ?