I'm using a temperature-controlled Oryx iron, bought in S. Africa about 55 years ago, that has lasted me till now - though I'm going to have to replace it because the tip is corroded and I can't get tips for it any more.
Hello! 55 years! It's incredible! When it comes time to change your soldering iron and buy a new one, pay attention to the GООT brand. They offer reliable soldering irons and soldering stations for a wide variety of tasks. toolboom.com/en/catalogue/soldering-equipment/soldering-irons/?brand=goot toolboom.com/en/catalogue/soldering-equipment/soldering-stations/?brand=goot
@@MohamedDIYelectronics-ei5wy Thanks for replying. As you see, I've been waiting for 3 years for somebody to tell me what to do, so I can get a soldering iron.
Hi, Electronics Technician here. Let me give you some feedback. First, use the proper flux. Use plumber's flux on plumbing, not electronics. For electronics you want to use no clean, rosin or resin. Next use the proper solder, either tin-lead or lead free. SAC305 makes crappy solder joints IMO however SN100C is pretty good and less expensive than SAC305. Electronics solder generally has a flux core. Speaking of flux, please don't teach people the bad habit of dipping the iron into flux. If you dip into anything it should be tip tinner/cleaner. Then immediately add solder to the tip to flush away the nasty residue from the cleaner. Next, add flux to your work, not your iron. Put the tip of the iron on the work to heat it up and feed solder into the joint area (such as PCB pads). Yes you can transfer solder (tinning the iron and transferring to the joint) but I typically reserve that for lap soldering wires which the insulation could easily melt. And if you can't get the solder to melt, you should try a tip with a larger mass and/or heat the region with a heat gun on low or hairdryer on high. I'd use a board heater but I realize most people don't have access to one.
excuse me, i get lost in translation because of the different terminology, the white greasy fluid (with the looks of hand cream) how should be used? i have been told to put it on the pcb spot to clean whatever impurities, but some people tell to put a bit there and then heat it, ns some other dip the soldering wire on the fluid and then heat the piece and the wire with the tip (which i find hard to because of the tiny size of the pieces) thanks
excuse me, i get lost in translation because of the different terminology, the white greasy fluid (with the looks of hand cream) how should be used? i have been told to put it on the pcb spot to clean whatever impurities, but some people tell to put a bit there and then heat it, ns some other dip the soldering wire on the fluid and then heat the piece and the wire with the tip (which i find hard to because of the tiny size of the pieces) thanks
You seem to know a lot about soldering irons. I'm looking to get into electronic repairs and am looking for a rework station. I don't the one I like takes 210 tips which I'm assuming is only compatable for t26 irons...? What about t36 irons? Is that how irons are sized?
@@09kenxgamer31 We think a soldering iron with temperature regulation is much more convenient than soldering iron without that option. Regarding temperature regulation, we used soldering irons with both analog and digital control. All in all, it depends on what is more convenient for you, as there’s no fundamental difference for the user.
Yea, well, when I started I needed, if taking into account recommended wattage, 20 W It wasn't strong enough. Then 40 W It also lacked heat. Now I will take 100 W for jobs that are claimed to be for 30 - 60 W. 2 pounds heavy.
Thank you very much, you saved me from a lot of headaches from trying to solder small wires with a 60w straight tip
You are always welcome! ^)
I'm using a temperature-controlled Oryx iron, bought in S. Africa about 55 years ago, that has lasted me till now - though I'm going to have to replace it because the tip is corroded and I can't get tips for it any more.
Hello! 55 years! It's incredible! When it comes time to change your soldering iron and buy a new one, pay attention to the GООT brand. They offer reliable soldering irons and soldering stations for a wide variety of tasks.
toolboom.com/en/catalogue/soldering-equipment/soldering-irons/?brand=goot
toolboom.com/en/catalogue/soldering-equipment/soldering-stations/?brand=goot
@@ToolBoomVideo Thanks for that. Some of these irons seem to be about the equivalent to what I have. I'll have a look at your product line.
Get a quicko for 20 to 30 bucks my boy. Jazakallahu kheiran
@@MohamedDIYelectronics-ei5wy Thanks for replying. As you see, I've been waiting for 3 years for somebody to tell me what to do, so I can get a soldering iron.
@@DownhillAllTheWaydang.. nvm just get yourself a quicko like i did, pretty good
Hi, Electronics Technician here. Let me give you some feedback. First, use the proper flux. Use plumber's flux on plumbing, not electronics. For electronics you want to use no clean, rosin or resin. Next use the proper solder, either tin-lead or lead free. SAC305 makes crappy solder joints IMO however SN100C is pretty good and less expensive than SAC305. Electronics solder generally has a flux core. Speaking of flux, please don't teach people the bad habit of dipping the iron into flux. If you dip into anything it should be tip tinner/cleaner. Then immediately add solder to the tip to flush away the nasty residue from the cleaner. Next, add flux to your work, not your iron. Put the tip of the iron on the work to heat it up and feed solder into the joint area (such as PCB pads). Yes you can transfer solder (tinning the iron and transferring to the joint) but I typically reserve that for lap soldering wires which the insulation could easily melt. And if you can't get the solder to melt, you should try a tip with a larger mass and/or heat the region with a heat gun on low or hairdryer on high. I'd use a board heater but I realize most people don't have access to one.
Hello! Thanks for the informative and constructive feedback! We appreciate your opinion and will take your suggestions into account! :)
excuse me, i get lost in translation because of the different terminology, the white greasy fluid (with the looks of hand cream) how should be used? i have been told to put it on the pcb spot to clean whatever impurities, but some people tell to put a bit there and then heat it, ns some other dip the soldering wire on the fluid and then heat the piece and the wire with the tip (which i find hard to because of the tiny size of the pieces) thanks
excuse me, i get lost in translation because of the different terminology, the white greasy fluid (with the looks of hand cream) how should be used? i have been told to put it on the pcb spot to clean whatever impurities, but some people tell to put a bit there and then heat it, ns some other dip the soldering wire on the fluid and then heat the piece and the wire with the tip (which i find hard to because of the tiny size of the pieces) thanks
You seem to know a lot about soldering irons. I'm looking to get into electronic repairs and am looking for a rework station. I don't the one I like takes 210 tips which I'm assuming is only compatable for t26 irons...? What about t36 irons? Is that how irons are sized?
The best video i've Ever seen about soldering iron
Thanks!
@@ToolBoomVideo by the way sir what do you prefer for soldering iron, the digital ones or the common type soldering iron?
@@09kenxgamer31 We think a soldering iron with temperature regulation is much more convenient than soldering iron without that option. Regarding temperature regulation, we used soldering irons with both analog and digital control. All in all, it depends on what is more convenient for you, as there’s no fundamental difference for the user.
@@ToolBoomVideo is the digital ones is durable like the common soldering iron? Or it depends if it's China brand or US
I have a 40 watt goot soldering iron that is made in japan
Ithin apita puka da
Amazing
I use a cheap t12 soldering iron with 80 watts, pretty good for pretty anything
I use 40 w
Thanks!
Probably the wrong one...
Yea, well, when I started I needed, if taking into account recommended wattage, 20 W
It wasn't strong enough.
Then 40 W
It also lacked heat.
Now I will take 100 W for jobs that are claimed to be for 30 - 60 W. 2 pounds heavy.
@@squallog5080 I usually lose that capability soon after first wetting.
totally useless. what the hell is that yellow thing.
Hello! Why is it useless? And what yellow thing did you mean?
@@ToolBoomVideo I think he is referring to his comment, which is totally useless. ;)