Modern cars are part of the problem where they tell you when to change gear, my wife’s Subaru forester diesel indicates to change up at 1400 rpm ! I’ll change up when I’m good and ready thank you 👍🏻🇬🇧
Some cars 'learn' your driving style and try to recommend a gear change when you usually change gears. For example if you often change gears at 2000 rpm, one day it will show the change gear sign around that. Likewise if you change gears at 3000 rpm, after a while, the light won't come on until that.
My mother-in-law is no longer with us. As she got older, her hearing went and she drove her poor old manual Corolla everywhere at 3-4,000 RPM! It was so old, it didn't have a tachometer and she couldn't hear the thing roaring away. I'm sure that her injectors were spotless, bless her!
I redline my TT 2.0 quattro atleast twice every journey. I did it with my GTI as well. I think that's what these cars are designed with in mind. Don't launch to often, check your fluids , keep up with maintenance, let her warm up before flooring it... and the engine should outlast your ownership of the vehicle (hopefully)
Whats really important is to get your oil really nice and hot every now and again. While it does not destroy your engine to redline it your engine experiences more wear in that state. Cars driven short distances all of the time have a lot of fuel in the oil. Getting the oil nice and hot helps evaporating the fuel restoring its intended propertys. A cold engine injects a lot more fuel and has more piston blowby, thats how unburned fuel makes it into the oilpan.
Could not agree more, I have been saying this for years. Change the oil and drive with mechanical sympathy most of the time and the engine will spin forever
Redline aside, what I found works very well on my port injected Nissan Sunny is taking it on a long open road drive. Say, more than 200 kilometres at 125-130 km/h, where the rpm constantly stays near 4000. It always feels more peppy and responsive after one of these trips. 😊
Very true for my old NA BMW with PI gasoline engines (N42 & N52). A full tank of premium fuel and a trip of 300kms at 126km/h always recovers up to 10 lost HP and the engine becomes smoother and more responsive.
It probably has nothing to do with self cleaning, rather the ecu and gearbox if it is automatic adapting to your driving style. Same true for bmw. If you drive slow all the time it learns you are an old fart and tunes itself to efficient low powered mode. Easy to reset though, while stationary
@@Badmavs Definitely not the ecu on my old Nissan Sunny. It's manual gearbox and obd 1. Nothing for the computer to learn. That open road driving cleans everything out. I've noticed it even on old carburettor cars
Particulate filters capture soot i.e. unburnt carbon - the engine management will decide when regen needs to take place and dump extra fuel into the exhaust to raise the exhaust temperature to burn this soot off into CO2 - nothing else needed. Provided the catalyst and particulate filter get up to the temperatures needed for soot to be burnt off hence the recommendation to go on a longer drive- not necessarily a high rpm one. That said the thing that kills DPFs is ash from the oil hence needing low ash oil as this creates metallic compounds that eventually clog it up - I know this as I had to de-ash my DPF in an acid bath at 180k miles - there was actually no soot in it but it is treated as end-of-life - it has been doing its own thing since. That said on my older 2002 diesel that only had an EGR, giving it high revs for an extended period e.g. 70mph in 4th increased the exhaust temperature enough to burn off the crud on the EGR valve which would sometimes stick and cause a flat spot at 2-3k rpm, so there is some logic to the theory…
I have a 2018 GT86 and do very local driving but every once in awhile il take it to the open roads and get it through the rev band just to keep everything in check. On my car you can adjust in the settings where the rev limiter is. I’ve mine set at 7,500 merely as a guide but I usually shift around 7,000 or so.
I have Peugeot Traveller with 2.0 liter BlueHDI. Excellent engine! Still sometimes I have to go to Germany for the job. People are driving faster. Driving the van at 150 km/h helps. When I'm back in Switzerland, the engine feels more responsive and consumes less fuel than before. I never go the red line. And only do it when te engine has reached its seevice temperature since a long time!
Trust me if you drive like a granny you will clock your engine, i had serious smoking and performance issues with 2004 Mondeo what i bought from older guy, it was fixed with reving it to moon for a while, no smoking what so ever after that, every sparkplug was very dirty so i changed them as well.
Yeah I agree driving slow constantly isn't good for the engine now and then needs a good boot and service it regularly with decent oils ect and parts newer diesels cause even more issues by driving slow
I currently have a rover with the infamous rover k series engine, lovely little revvy engine and admitidly i do give it a good thrashing a lot of the time, recently bought a 2015 A3 2.0tdi and will not drive that like a granny either. Most important things is to make sure everything is fully up to tempeature, servicing, regular checks and don't let new obscure noises go un attended!
For injector cleaning, it makes sense once you've dumped a bottle of fuel system cleaner in to give it some beans, however for most modern engines like in my RS6 for example, the overall carbon cleaning is almost zero anywhere else on the likes of the TSFI direct injection motors. You can get the Turbo and intake cleaners, which I'm sure if used on a brand new car throughout ownership, would certainly help prevent the buildup of carbon on the intake, however using them post-buildup is a waste of money as once that carbon has set solid on your intake its like bell metal! Find a reputable carbon cleaning specialist who uses cleaning media like walnut blasting or C02 and get the intake cleaned properly, then as a routine going forward, use the Intake cleaning products monthly. The main culprit here is with EGR and PCV systems is the amount of crud they feedback into the system and the lack of valve cleaning form direct port injection, but then how far do you go investing in custom made replacements for these such as catch-cans and water meth etc?
I disagree; fuel system cleaners use things like naphtha (kerosene) which burns at a higher temp in the cylinders, thus burning off any and all carbon deposits, not to mention, because its petroleum based it gets rid of any and all varnishing of components, coupled with lubricating action. I would also recommend using an engine flush when changing the oil.
My 1.3 cdti was smoking and rough idling dumped a bottle of millers diesel eco cleaner in full tank and took it for a few blasts and now cleaner exhaust and when regenerating hardly any thick smoking comes out so im impressed with it though at 9quid a go its not cheap. 😅
Here is what i do asides from the manufracturers recommended services: First of all, i dont even mess with pure DI engines. I like the advantages of DI but it has to have Multi Port Injection to keep the valves clean. For a simple no thrills daily a port injected engine is fine. Just dont get a purely DI engine. As far as gasoline goes, i dont know whats available on Your specific country but i use Super Plus with 98 oktane for most of the year occasionally giving it a few tanks back to back of Aral Ultimate 102 but Shell V Power is fine too if you like that. The additives flush the entire fueling system i hope. As far as driving goes i use D mode and adaptive cruise control most of the times. Fairly layed back low rpm driving most of the times for good fuel economy and low wear but im not afraid to explore the red line at least once a week and get the oil really nice and hot to evaporate accumulated fuel in the oil. Worked fine for me so far. Im driving a 2018 Golf mk7.5 R (0603-CBM)
I find my Audi diesel, the suggested gear change for efficiency is too low so go over and find my own gear change speed but have never red lined. Started to put shell v power in occasionally and find it seems to go better but the added cost is rather high so only put in £20 worth but still better.
What I do for my diesel is that every couple of months, I add 1 bottle of injector cleaner on the full tank and never had a problem with smoke, fuel economy, or performance.
I bought a 1993 Taurus SHO. It has dual runners for high RPM performance. I bought the car used. I'm getting on the highway after picking the car up and leaning heavy on the throttle I get smoke out of the tailpipes. I'm fogging the highway. During the ride home, I do this a few times and it seems that the last time gave less smoke. After a couople of days, I got nothing at high RPMs coming out of the tailpipe. Because the secondary runners don't open up untill around 3000 RPM, I don't think the previous owner drove the car aggressively and the runners were full of crap. The redline for that car was limited to 7300 so the acessories don't get beat up. My current car HAD a 6500 RPM redline but the TCU was shifting at 6200. Now it has a 7400 RPM redline and the TCU is shifitng at 7200. I can only redline the 1-2. Redlining the 2-3 means you've already exceeded the national speed limit and at full throttle you are going to be in deep doo doo if you get pulled over.
In regards to DPF health, my dpf regen temps get up to 1100F-1200F. I can monitor my temps while driving, and if I floor it my dpf temps might hit 1000F for a second or two, but by then I’m approaching 100mph. Not anywhere near the 20 mins or so required for a full regen. So I’d say (for a 3.0TDI at least) the Italian tune up does not help dpf regen.
even my '01 honda v6 plugs were stock high-end, iridium or somesuch and are 100K plugs, and are known to last far beyond that, though they'd likely be stuck if not removed by some very high mileage like perhaps 150 or 200K miles.
My mum has a Toyota Yaris economy box thing, it's stuttering at higher revs, something weird with the VVTI I guess. She's on holiday now so I've been driving it a bit, pedal to the metal in 1st gear and 2nd gear all the way to redline. It's stopped stuttering and making weird noises now 😆
i'd think it's mainly a tip for bigger/beefier engines, having had a 1.0 VVT loaner wile mine was in a shop (my car is a lowly 1.8L with vvt) but whenever i had to get on the highway i HAD to redline the little 1.0 or i'd get angry looks from the people behind me. if i do that in my normal car i'm entering the highway to fast or i have to shift from 2nd > 6th to revert to cruising rpm which is just silly :P the 1.0 just got a decent workout daily where my 1.8 i do ocassionally drive it high in the rpm range but it's a choice to do so otherwise i'm probably never getting above 3500 rpm (redline at 6200).
I have a Pontiac with a Toyota drive train (same as a Matrix) that has about 260,000 mi on it. I've noticed that it still doesn't use hardly any oil between changes (like a half a pint) unless I push it past 3k with RPMs. And given that it's about 20 years old with all original engine parts, I try to vary my driving a bit. I don't want to push it too hard. I don't see red lining an old vehicle like that. But also if I drive it like a little old lady I'm sure it will plug up. So I try to strike a balance between the two extremes and vary my acceleration and speeds. I think constant city driving without a good ride on a highway now and again is terrible for any vehicle. I've always heard 10 miles or more is ideal. I can get the RPMs up towards 3 for a reasonable amount of time. Only occasionally going beyond that when I'm passing someone, etc. which I feel is important as well.
I was hoping you would talk about breaking in new engines by loading the piston rings (hitting wide open throttle periodically) during the first few hundred miles to get a better seal/compression. There's anecdotal evidence this increases efficiency and power for the life of the engine.
Low RPMs first 1500 km after that change the break in oil and drive seldomly harsh until 3k KM change engine oil again and drive it like you stole it,Hope this helps
@hass1337 well the theory is that the first 500km or 1000km are the most important to load the rings... even the first 50. Just flooring it periodically but not redlining. The idea is that you are seating the rings and making them contour to the cylinders under pressure so the rings are tighter once its broken in. You still want to follow the typical guidelines of don't rev too high, vary your rpm, etc. I did this with a new 2017 Mustang GT--I was bummed there was already 100km on it from test drives.
IMO, there isn't much of that nowadays. Engineering manufacturing clearances and tolerances are so tight, advancement of materials engineering of cylinders and rings in the quest for reduced friction. If anything an early oil change once the aluminium bore journals have bedded in, but even that's probably unnecessary with the level of filtration possible with today's thiner oils
Dpf is definitely need to be put hot regularly, otherwise self clean won’t work. Modern gearboxes with 7 - 8 gears intentionally keep rpm low even at high speeds, and clean won’t work. And you have to replace or externally remove and clean dpf. Ask my wife how she knows now 😂 just put a gearbox in a sport mode few times a week
'modern engines minimise carbon build-up by design' Er, exhaust gas recirculation valves beg to differ, I had a Diesel Jag X Type and the carbon deposit in the air intake manifold was horrendous.
I have a small turbo charged manual car. How long should I stay in the high rpm range? Do 10 seconds suffice or should I be closer to a minute? Should I hit high rpm in every gear? I understand it is beneficial to do it often, does often mean once a day or once a week?
Before you do it check your oil and coolant levels and warm the engine up. Then just find a nice open road rev to near red line through 1st and 2nd then do a few miles at high revs in 3rd, say 4000 - 4500. It works wonders I get many a car through the MOT emissions this way. NB this advice for petrol cars. Diesel, deduct 1000rpm for the 3rd gear stuff
There is absolutely no need to scream your engine for any length of time in too low a gear. That's a waste of fuel and not what is being suggested. Just drive it normally (without labouring it) and maybe when well warmed up, and the road allows, start changing up later. Just have fun with it when you can. 😊
Some diesel engines top out at 4000rpm - generally speaking I'd say the upper third of the RPM range so if it goes to 6000 rpm anything between 4 and 6 I'd count as a higher RPM. A VTEC or Rotary engine will be much higher than 4000rpm as they have a higher redline.
Taxis clock up huge mileages because they are constantly HOT ! Nothing worse than poodeling around & stop start a cold engine 'Energetic' driving on a bypass or motorway at least once a week & buy the best fuel because of the additives
Simply put, engines dont like getting started when they are cold. Driving short distances all the time decreases hours an engine makes and also decresaes miles before scrap or rebuild. Part of the reason trucks can make a million miles on one engine.
Until warm I rev to 50% of the range max and only when I need to. Otherwise I use the car as I see fit mostly driving around 30-50% of RPM because the VVT-I makes too much noise and too little power up top to justify driving it too hard. Using Metabond additive for petrol and 98 Super with 5% of ethanol.
My BMW dealership recommends a bottle of fuel injection cleaner after every oil change. I know someone that ruin his M5 engine by driving too conservatively.
Who are you? Smash what components? You probably don't take care of your vehicle. Which is why you more than likely destroyed your vehicle's internals. Don't need your advice.
It absolutely works, on older cars anyway. I had Alfa 156 V6 and it HAD to be driven flat out for a while or it didn't run properly. Driving it like a Prius angered it. It would become lumpy, and seem to 'tighten up' if it wasn't regularly red-lined
More importantly the Italian tuneup is a therapy well known for keeping the doctor away. Meanwhile my TDI has never shown a DPF light the entire time I’ve owned it and has never showed signs of engine wear or failure as a result of being told to reach the speed limit as soon as possible 😉 Not so much as a squeak, rattle or puff or smoke from the exhaust 😌
In my experience Diesels are made to be driven hard, they have a very narrow power band so using it is quite easy. Most diesels I've owned still give good fuel economy even when driven reasonably hard.
I have an E90 BMW M3 and use high rpm on most drives once the oil is fully up to temp. It's hard here in the south of the UK to drive it under full throttle a lot, it's not a rocket ship but it can still land you in trouble pretty quickly. I also have an older E46 325i which I need tk do this more often, it does more shorter trips but it'll get a run for Christmas and I'll drive it hard at parts!
Italian tuning is indeed needed often. New engines are direct injection, you get a lot of carbon everywhere. FInd the autobahn, don't do it on local roads. Thrash the car for 30 minutes minimum. Mind you the car has to be serviced properly, oil and filters is minimum.
It doesn't need to go quickly if it's red reving. You can rev it into red in first and second gear. If you are using automatic gearbox you are a looser anyway, just take your car to the shop and pay.
Modern cars are part of the problem where they tell you when to change gear, my wife’s Subaru forester diesel indicates to change up at 1400 rpm ! I’ll change up when I’m good and ready thank you 👍🏻🇬🇧
Yes but don’t change BEFORE that light comes on
Some cars 'learn' your driving style and try to recommend a gear change when you usually change gears. For example if you often change gears at 2000 rpm, one day it will show the change gear sign around that. Likewise if you change gears at 3000 rpm, after a while, the light won't come on until that.
My mother-in-law is no longer with us. As she got older, her hearing went and she drove her poor old manual Corolla everywhere at 3-4,000 RPM! It was so old, it didn't have a tachometer and she couldn't hear the thing roaring away. I'm sure that her injectors were spotless, bless her!
@@jasondoust4935 she needed it right in the powerband to get to Waitrose asap
I redline my TT 2.0 quattro atleast twice every journey. I did it with my GTI as well.
I think that's what these cars are designed with in mind.
Don't launch to often, check your fluids , keep up with maintenance, let her warm up before flooring it... and the engine should outlast your ownership of the vehicle (hopefully)
@legrangedylandlg honestly if you're not ripping it at least a little bit why spring for the gti is my thought lol
Whats really important is to get your oil really nice and hot every now and again. While it does not destroy your engine to redline it your engine experiences more wear in that state. Cars driven short distances all of the time have a lot of fuel in the oil. Getting the oil nice and hot helps evaporating the fuel restoring its intended propertys. A cold engine injects a lot more fuel and has more piston blowby, thats how unburned fuel makes it into the oilpan.
Could not agree more, I have been saying this for years. Change the oil and drive with mechanical sympathy most of the time and the engine will spin forever
High RPM driving and not red RPM driving needs to be emphasized.
I could have missed that
Thanks 🙏 was good advice
Great video, you are putting out some brilliant videos, well done, keep them coming
Redline aside, what I found works very well on my port injected Nissan Sunny is taking it on a long open road drive. Say, more than 200 kilometres at 125-130 km/h, where the rpm constantly stays near 4000. It always feels more peppy and responsive after one of these trips. 😊
Very true for my old NA BMW with PI gasoline engines (N42 & N52).
A full tank of premium fuel and a trip of 300kms at 126km/h always recovers up to 10 lost HP and the engine becomes smoother and more responsive.
👍👍👍
It probably has nothing to do with self cleaning, rather the ecu and gearbox if it is automatic adapting to your driving style. Same true for bmw. If you drive slow all the time it learns you are an old fart and tunes itself to efficient low powered mode. Easy to reset though, while stationary
@@Badmavs Definitely not the ecu on my old Nissan Sunny. It's manual gearbox and obd 1. Nothing for the computer to learn. That open road driving cleans everything out. I've noticed it even on old carburettor cars
@@Badmavs Nothing to do with the ECU.
My N42 powered car is a manual and I definitely drive it hard all the time.
Well put; I have been an advocate of the Italian Tune up for four decades 👍
I do an Italian tune up on my M2, every week.
It's good fun, that's the only reason I do it 🙂
Particulate filters capture soot i.e. unburnt carbon - the engine management will decide when regen needs to take place and dump extra fuel into the exhaust to raise the exhaust temperature to burn this soot off into CO2 - nothing else needed. Provided the catalyst and particulate filter get up to the temperatures needed for soot to be burnt off hence the recommendation to go on a longer drive- not necessarily a high rpm one. That said the thing that kills DPFs is ash from the oil hence needing low ash oil as this creates metallic compounds that eventually clog it up - I know this as I had to de-ash my DPF in an acid bath at 180k miles - there was actually no soot in it but it is treated as end-of-life - it has been doing its own thing since. That said on my older 2002 diesel that only had an EGR, giving it high revs for an extended period e.g. 70mph in 4th increased the exhaust temperature enough to burn off the crud on the EGR valve which would sometimes stick and cause a flat spot at 2-3k rpm, so there is some logic to the theory…
Great video! Thank you!
I have a 2018 GT86 and do very local driving but every once in awhile il take it to the open roads and get it through the rev band just to keep everything in check. On my car you can adjust in the settings where the rev limiter is. I’ve mine set at 7,500 merely as a guide but I usually shift around 7,000 or so.
I have Peugeot Traveller with 2.0 liter BlueHDI. Excellent engine!
Still sometimes I have to go to Germany for the job. People are driving faster. Driving the van at 150 km/h helps. When I'm back in Switzerland, the engine feels more responsive and consumes less fuel than before. I never go the red line. And only do it when te engine has reached its seevice temperature since a long time!
Greatly informative 💪🏻
Trust me if you drive like a granny you will clock your engine, i had serious smoking and performance issues with 2004 Mondeo what i bought from older guy, it was fixed with reving it to moon for a while, no smoking what so ever after that, every sparkplug was very dirty so i changed them as well.
Yeah I agree driving slow constantly isn't good for the engine now and then needs a good boot and service it regularly with decent oils ect and parts newer diesels cause even more issues by driving slow
I currently have a rover with the infamous rover k series engine, lovely little revvy engine and admitidly i do give it a good thrashing a lot of the time, recently bought a 2015 A3 2.0tdi and will not drive that like a granny either. Most important things is to make sure everything is fully up to tempeature, servicing, regular checks and don't let new obscure noises go un attended!
I drive Alfa Romeo and it's italian tuned! 😊
I drive a JDM eg8 civic and it's italian tuned!
For injector cleaning, it makes sense once you've dumped a bottle of fuel system cleaner in to give it some beans, however for most modern engines like in my RS6 for example, the overall carbon cleaning is almost zero anywhere else on the likes of the TSFI direct injection motors.
You can get the Turbo and intake cleaners, which I'm sure if used on a brand new car throughout ownership, would certainly help prevent the buildup of carbon on the intake, however using them post-buildup is a waste of money as once that carbon has set solid on your intake its like bell metal!
Find a reputable carbon cleaning specialist who uses cleaning media like walnut blasting or C02 and get the intake cleaned properly, then as a routine going forward, use the Intake cleaning products monthly.
The main culprit here is with EGR and PCV systems is the amount of crud they feedback into the system and the lack of valve cleaning form direct port injection, but then how far do you go investing in custom made replacements for these such as catch-cans and water meth etc?
I disagree; fuel system cleaners use things like naphtha (kerosene) which burns at a higher temp in the cylinders, thus burning off any and all carbon deposits, not to mention, because its petroleum based it gets rid of any and all varnishing of components, coupled with lubricating action. I would also recommend using an engine flush when changing the oil.
@@M0XXQ TFSI... Truly fucking shit invention
What about automatic transmission? Should i force downshift?
I like to tell myself that me red lining and high revs is what my 20 year old mx5 1.8 vvt needs, i’m taking care of it, giving it what it needs. 😂
My 1.3 cdti was smoking and rough idling dumped a bottle of millers diesel eco cleaner in full tank and took it for a few blasts and now cleaner exhaust and when regenerating hardly any thick smoking comes out so im impressed with it though at 9quid a go its not cheap. 😅
Here is what i do asides from the manufracturers recommended services:
First of all, i dont even mess with pure DI engines. I like the advantages of DI but it has to have Multi Port Injection to keep the valves clean. For a simple no thrills daily a port injected engine is fine. Just dont get a purely DI engine. As far as gasoline goes, i dont know whats available on Your specific country but i use Super Plus with 98 oktane for most of the year occasionally giving it a few tanks back to back of Aral Ultimate 102 but Shell V Power is fine too if you like that. The additives flush the entire fueling system i hope. As far as driving goes i use D mode and adaptive cruise control most of the times. Fairly layed back low rpm driving most of the times for good fuel economy and low wear but im not afraid to explore the red line at least once a week and get the oil really nice and hot to evaporate accumulated fuel in the oil. Worked fine for me so far. Im driving a 2018 Golf mk7.5 R (0603-CBM)
I find my Audi diesel, the suggested gear change for efficiency is too low so go over and find my own gear change speed but have never red lined. Started to put shell v power in occasionally and find it seems to go better but the added cost is rather high so only put in £20 worth but still better.
That s the best fuel i found !
What I do for my diesel is that every couple of months, I add 1 bottle of injector cleaner on the full tank and never had a problem with smoke, fuel economy, or performance.
I bought a 1993 Taurus SHO. It has dual runners for high RPM performance. I bought the car used. I'm getting on the highway after picking the car up and leaning heavy on the throttle I get smoke out of the tailpipes. I'm fogging the highway. During the ride home, I do this a few times and it seems that the last time gave less smoke. After a couople of days, I got nothing at high RPMs coming out of the tailpipe. Because the secondary runners don't open up untill around 3000 RPM, I don't think the previous owner drove the car aggressively and the runners were full of crap. The redline for that car was limited to 7300 so the acessories don't get beat up. My current car HAD a 6500 RPM redline but the TCU was shifting at 6200. Now it has a 7400 RPM redline and the TCU is shifitng at 7200. I can only redline the 1-2. Redlining the 2-3 means you've already exceeded the national speed limit and at full throttle you are going to be in deep doo doo if you get pulled over.
yeah i'd call it the Torino tuneup to avoid any confusion with 'touring', ie highway drives which also are great for clearing things out
In regards to DPF health, my dpf regen temps get up to 1100F-1200F. I can monitor my temps while driving, and if I floor it my dpf temps might hit 1000F for a second or two, but by then I’m approaching 100mph. Not anywhere near the 20 mins or so required for a full regen. So I’d say (for a 3.0TDI at least) the Italian tune up does not help dpf regen.
even my '01 honda v6 plugs were stock high-end, iridium or somesuch and are 100K plugs, and are known to last far beyond that, though they'd likely be stuck if not removed by some very high mileage like perhaps 150 or 200K miles.
My mum has a Toyota Yaris economy box thing, it's stuttering at higher revs, something weird with the VVTI I guess. She's on holiday now so I've been driving it a bit, pedal to the metal in 1st gear and 2nd gear all the way to redline. It's stopped stuttering and making weird noises now 😆
How do you do this with a hybrid engine? Same?
i'd think it's mainly a tip for bigger/beefier engines, having had a 1.0 VVT loaner wile mine was in a shop (my car is a lowly 1.8L with vvt) but whenever i had to get on the highway i HAD to redline the little 1.0 or i'd get angry looks from the people behind me. if i do that in my normal car i'm entering the highway to fast or i have to shift from 2nd > 6th to revert to cruising rpm which is just silly :P
the 1.0 just got a decent workout daily where my 1.8 i do ocassionally drive it high in the rpm range but it's a choice to do so otherwise i'm probably never getting above 3500 rpm (redline at 6200).
At 0 degrees F my teenager floored my cold ‘01 Chevy Tahoe and shifted it into gear while keeping it floored !!!! Talk about an Italian Tune up !!!!
@@joemikey278 i bet your mechanic loves you
@@dutifulbarrel9084 sure does !
Rotary engines impart a fundamental principle: maintaining a daily redline ensures the longevity of apex seals.
I have a Pontiac with a Toyota drive train (same as a Matrix) that has about 260,000 mi on it. I've noticed that it still doesn't use hardly any oil between changes (like a half a pint) unless I push it past 3k with RPMs. And given that it's about 20 years old with all original engine parts, I try to vary my driving a bit. I don't want to push it too hard. I don't see red lining an old vehicle like that. But also if I drive it like a little old lady I'm sure it will plug up. So I try to strike a balance between the two extremes and vary my acceleration and speeds. I think constant city driving without a good ride on a highway now and again is terrible for any vehicle. I've always heard 10 miles or more is ideal. I can get the RPMs up towards 3 for a reasonable amount of time. Only occasionally going beyond that when I'm passing someone, etc. which I feel is important as well.
I call it going to the store. 😆 🤣 😂
Don't give up!
Soo warm it up nicely and give it the beans once a week. Noted boss!
I was hoping you would talk about breaking in new engines by loading the piston rings (hitting wide open throttle periodically) during the first few hundred miles to get a better seal/compression. There's anecdotal evidence this increases efficiency and power for the life of the engine.
Low RPMs first 1500 km after that change the break in oil and drive seldomly harsh until 3k KM change engine oil again and drive it like you stole it,Hope this helps
@hass1337 well the theory is that the first 500km or 1000km are the most important to load the rings... even the first 50. Just flooring it periodically but not redlining. The idea is that you are seating the rings and making them contour to the cylinders under pressure so the rings are tighter once its broken in. You still want to follow the typical guidelines of don't rev too high, vary your rpm, etc. I did this with a new 2017 Mustang GT--I was bummed there was already 100km on it from test drives.
@@hass1337 this will glaze the cylinders
IMO, there isn't much of that nowadays. Engineering manufacturing clearances and tolerances are so tight, advancement of materials engineering of cylinders and rings in the quest for reduced friction.
If anything an early oil change once the aluminium bore journals have bedded in, but even that's probably unnecessary with the level of filtration possible with today's thiner oils
Dpf is definitely need to be put hot regularly, otherwise self clean won’t work. Modern gearboxes with 7 - 8 gears intentionally keep rpm low even at high speeds, and clean won’t work. And you have to replace or externally remove and clean dpf. Ask my wife how she knows now 😂 just put a gearbox in a sport mode few times a week
Scotty Kilmer promotes it. And I do it to all my cars when I drive 75 miles down the mountain to LA to visit the family.
If you have a modern diesel then drive it like you just stole it and you will never have a problem
Always let your engine & gerbox warm up thoroughly before extending the RPMs!!
If injector blocking is due to fuel contaminants, why would increasing the fuel rate not increase the rate of contamination?
'modern engines minimise carbon build-up by design' Er, exhaust gas recirculation valves beg to differ, I had a Diesel Jag X Type and the carbon deposit in the air intake manifold was horrendous.
I have a small turbo charged manual car. How long should I stay in the high rpm range? Do 10 seconds suffice or should I be closer to a minute? Should I hit high rpm in every gear? I understand it is beneficial to do it often, does often mean once a day or once a week?
Before you do it check your oil and coolant levels and warm the engine up. Then just find a nice open road rev to near red line through 1st and 2nd then do a few miles at high revs in 3rd, say 4000 - 4500. It works wonders I get many a car through the MOT emissions this way. NB this advice for petrol cars. Diesel, deduct 1000rpm for the 3rd gear stuff
There is absolutely no need to scream your engine for any length of time in too low a gear. That's a waste of fuel and not what is being suggested. Just drive it normally (without labouring it) and maybe when well warmed up, and the road allows, start changing up later. Just have fun with it when you can. 😊
Some of us still have feeler gauges
What is considered as high rpm? Above 4k rpm?
Some diesel engines top out at 4000rpm - generally speaking I'd say the upper third of the RPM range so if it goes to 6000 rpm anything between 4 and 6 I'd count as a higher RPM. A VTEC or Rotary engine will be much higher than 4000rpm as they have a higher redline.
Understood, thanks for explaining, learnt something today! Have a great ahead
Taxis clock up huge mileages because they are constantly HOT ! Nothing worse than poodeling around & stop start a cold engine 'Energetic' driving on a bypass or motorway at least once a week & buy the best fuel because of the additives
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Simply put, engines dont like getting started when they are cold. Driving short distances all the time decreases hours an engine makes and also decresaes miles before scrap or rebuild. Part of the reason trucks can make a million miles on one engine.
It's necessary on a direct injection only engine
I múst be Italian. I redline my cars many times in one journey.
Until warm I rev to 50% of the range max and only when I need to. Otherwise I use the car as I see fit mostly driving around 30-50% of RPM because the VVT-I makes too much noise and too little power up top to justify driving it too hard.
Using Metabond additive for petrol and 98 Super with 5% of ethanol.
Yes it does, I'v been practising it for 25 years.
My BMW dealership recommends a bottle of fuel injection cleaner after every oil change. I know someone that ruin his M5 engine by driving too conservatively.
Why not use an italian tune up coupled with some STP 5 in 1.
Anyone that’s owned a sporting Honda knows.
"High RPM driving, not Max RPM driving"👍🏻
I thought this what you meant by spirited drive???
I redline engine everyday once up to temperature.
Cars always drive great after they have been on the motorway.
Same here, if you keep up with maintenance and let her warm up I don't see any problems with this!
Every pull is worth the smile.
A B road blast is as good for the car as it is for the driver 😂
A good old drive therapy session.
It definitely works until you hear the Big Bang 😂
Italian tuneup didnt fix my coolant leaks
My mums cars just start burning oil. Im gonna redline it till it repairs itself of blow up.
Never worked never will work, it will just smash your components.
I'm commenting without seeing the video, even knowing he knew stuff about cars..
Who are you? Smash what components? You probably don't take care of your vehicle. Which is why you more than likely destroyed your vehicle's internals. Don't need your advice.
It absolutely works, on older cars anyway. I had Alfa 156 V6 and it HAD to be driven flat out for a while or it didn't run properly. Driving it like a Prius angered it. It would become lumpy, and seem to 'tighten up' if it wasn't regularly red-lined
More importantly the Italian tuneup is a therapy well known for keeping the doctor away. Meanwhile my TDI has never shown a DPF light the entire time I’ve owned it and has never showed signs of engine wear or failure as a result of being told to reach the speed limit as soon as possible 😉
Not so much as a squeak, rattle or puff or smoke from the exhaust 😌
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How many miles on it?
I tried it in my EV and it did nothing.
How does this relate to diesel engines?
Good question, I also would like to know
DPF is the main pain in diesel engines. City driving low rpm will block it in less than a year
In my experience Diesels are made to be driven hard, they have a very narrow power band so using it is quite easy. Most diesels I've owned still give good fuel economy even when driven reasonably hard.
@@torquecars cool mate, thanks for the reply appreciate it
I have an E90 BMW M3 and use high rpm on most drives once the oil is fully up to temp. It's hard here in the south of the UK to drive it under full throttle a lot, it's not a rocket ship but it can still land you in trouble pretty quickly. I also have an older E46 325i which I need tk do this more often, it does more shorter trips but it'll get a run for Christmas and I'll drive it hard at parts!
Italian tuning is indeed needed often. New engines are direct injection, you get a lot of carbon everywhere. FInd the autobahn, don't do it on local roads. Thrash the car for 30 minutes minimum. Mind you the car has to be serviced properly, oil and filters is minimum.
It doesn't need to go quickly if it's red reving. You can rev it into red in first and second gear. If you are using automatic gearbox you are a looser anyway, just take your car to the shop and pay.
Your tag is extremely annoying... moving... puffing... annoying
you what?
1st...