This video is old school. The information is spot on. However the way the battery is connected in this video is shifty. Always good to invest in a 4 in one or 6 in one terminal clamp that allows for each ground and power wire to have its own spot. Helps with easy removal and is over all a cleaner look. Also, its unneeded to connect all amps to the battery in this fashion. Better would be to use a distribution block, with the grounds and power line in the cars battery sized appropriately. For example two amps at 4 gauge, use 0 gauge at battery. At this point you would upgrade the grounds of the battery to the amp, chasse, and motor to 0 gauge as well. The fuse at the car's battery would be sized according to total RMS wattage of all the amps. Then at the distribution block each amp would have the manufacturer's suggested fuse size. Clean and professional.
I know this is an old vide, but thought I would share my experience. Initially I had a 2 gauge frm the the alternator body/case to battery (-) but still had issues with my digital temperature meter..It would go bonkers esp when I turned on the headlights and a/c. But when I rerouted the same wire from alternator body/case to chassis nearest to battery, it seemed to have solved the issue...seems the alternator was struggling to send current to the otherside, maybe due to various dust,oil, greases around the block,engine,chasis...this worked best for me...
Let me see if I understand this, I can run a ground wire (0 gauge seems huge to me in this video, I'd think a simple 4 gauge would work for a ground too yes?) from the bolt that is holding my alternator (basically where you want to ground to the alternator) *directly to the negative on my battery?* I ask because I have a Honda Civic 2001 that cranks but no start (doesn't seem to be getting spark & I replaced battery and starter but no go - so I replaced fuel relay but nope. Fuel pump is fine. Spark plugs and wires are fine. Leaves my alternator which was tested as weak right before this happened) but before I replace the alternator, I want to make sure it's getting the ground.
You're right adding a ground for the alternator to the battery is good. The only thing I'd add is. You don't have to ground directly to the alternator. The engine and alternator are metal bolted together. You just need to go from negative on the battery to the first convenient spot on the engine.
My neighbor left the positive battery cable on top of her engine and it burned through and touched ground. We figured out it killed the battery and I believe it killed the alternator as well but wouldn't the alternator whether it was bad or not still let the engine start? If a diode goes bad in there is AC in the DC voltage it will still run?
I messed around trying different grounding locations on my car. .. it has a very small 10-12ga wire from the passenger side motor mount to the chassis near the strut tower that's on the alt side my battery is on the opposite side I did the big three and jumped the wire from the chassis to the alt case then back to the battery and that was the best ground for me it made a noticeable difference in voltage as well as holding the power longer with just a single battery and 150a alt up front charging went from 13.8-14.0 to 14.3-14.5
Same here. Initially I had a 2gauge frm the the alternator body/case to battery (-) but still had issues with my digital temperature meter. But when I rerouted the same wire from alternator body/case to chassis nearest to battery, it seemed to have solved the issue...seems the alternator was struggling to send current to the otherside, maybe due to various dust,oil, greases around the block,engine,chasis...this worked best for me...
So i have a bad engine ground was getting readings of -.10 on both the alternator case and the engine block. Car has been wanting to stall with the lights on and defrost on while in park. So is it possible to just add a secondary ground to the alternator and just not mess with the firewall ground? Or should i just replace the engine block to firewall ground? Thing is the engine block ground is in a total blind spot and my alternator is right up top in the front. It would be much easier i think to just get an earth strap or 0 gauge wire from alternator to the frame.
I'm having same trouble with my Chevy uplander I purchased a new alternator and battery my battery light is still on and I'm also getting a error message saying Charging System Failure any recommendations?
Mallory Robinson see comment above about 95 Honda alternator commented on could be bad ground wire from alternator check it as it is usually a tiny wire not suitable to handle a failing alternators power
Old video I know, a lot of comments on whether grounding alternator right to the battery is necessary; remember there is more than 1 way to skin a cat, grounding directly to the battery is the path of least resistance so of course it is beneficial to the alternator output. Your chassis and engine should also be grounded to the battery though or else all your extra accessories are going to be using the ground through your alternator when the old small stock grounds fail
Every car is wires wrong. Every amp kit is incomplete. Im so mad that aftermarket alt companies and battery companies have not shared and written instructed that a ground from alt to batt is a must.especially in lithium apps. Im actually redoing two expensive stereos for this fact.
This RUclipsr in the video I feel is confusing ppl...you dont need to necessarily ground the alternator body...you need to ground the ENGINE to the BODY or NEGATIVE POST/TERMINAL...any of those will do...point is to make engine and body (-)
@@betareybill9400 yeh, i think in grade six schools taught complete circuits. Ford Engineers never took that school. ALL Ford trucks had bad grounds for decades. Easy fix, though. Just ground to the frame.
@@betareybill9400 in an ideal world yes. There are exceptions such as alternators that use rubber mounts and rely on the bracket for grounding My classic car had resistance here because the bracket was painted (my bad) and it attaches to the water pump housing. The water pump bolts have thread tape on them
Good tip thank you..Did you consider shorter route like, from Alternator body to nearest chasis point..something like 14 inch long thick wire may work.
That worked best for me alternator to chasis... I did the direct to battery (-) for a year, but didnt get good results. much better to chasis esp nearer the battery.
I know this is an older video but I need help. I dragged an old wood framed car out of the bush. It's got an oak frame in it. It has a delco alternator with a direct wire from the ground to the negative battery post with some kind of diode link on the post. Would you know what it might be?
Power would go from the positive post on alt and then to the battery which may have a fuse on it. The diode might be a ground loop isolator but hard to tell
Clamp and post method is easier for when having to disconnect the battery. Bolting it down like i did can be more secure and takes the clamp out of the mix so less resistance
I installed a new battery because meter showed alternator was working hard to charge. The van started. I installed a new alternator, now the engine cranks but does not start. The weird thing is - the key is not even in the starting position, it is only in the first notch and the engine starts cranking. Even if I move the key to a full start - it only cranks and does not start. Any ideas on where to go from here.
My 06 Dakota has a short in alternator power wire. What gauge wire can I replace it with? Everytime I crank truck I have to move the power wire to alternator to crank truck
I've been coming to the conclusion that running all the way to negative post can be misguided in some cases where the battery and alternator are on opposite sides of the engine compartment. In this case it may be better to ground to the frame much closer to the alternator... I just can't wrap my head around the idea of a 4 to 5 ft ground cable (in this case it would be a Honda Civic 10th gen)
My alternator is down lower on this 11 fusion SE. After a huge storm i was on the highway driving through heavy rain and my transmission quit working right. Doesn't know what gear it's in. Sometimes its has all the gears when it's warmer or warmed up. But it only has 3rd through however many gears it has does great on the highway right now but starts off in 3rd gear. Code scanner at first said had two codes for range sensor, so I tore my car apart and changed it. Didn't fix it in the problem is intermittent so I'm starting to think it's voltage. And I really hope it's voltage because I won't mind feeling dumb at all if it is
You mentioned singer alternator I have sent them a half dozen emails in the past couple months and can't get a reply do they have a phone number Steve Meade recommended getting ahold of him for an alternator for my 19 Camry with the PCM controlled charging system and I can't get ahold of him to save my life lol autotech has a 290 amp model I've just heard really good things about singer any way to get in contact would be greatly appreciated thanks
3 questions. What size fuse did you run of the zero gauge wire from the alt to the battery? What size alternator are you running? And what is safe for the Mazda 3's Is there a way to replace the fusible link on the stock power wire (brown one by the battery post with a breaker instead?
the stock power wire will not due for a bigger alternator. it is very simple to add a new wire and I would suggest a fuse size of 200-300 amp depending on what your new alternator pushs
+ghostlyrich when I hook my positive battery alternator and my starter main hot wires up to the positive, an connect my negitive wire up from the battery I get a bad sparking. could this result in needing to put a ground on the alternator and starter to not get any sparks while trying to hook it up.
rhdadrian alt shouldn't drain the battery unless it's shorting. are you sure it's the alt shorting the battery?? how olds the battery if you disconnection does it just drain
To Kendall. Sorry bro it actually does help with certain cars. Especially if the car is having volt spikes that can mess with the pcm. Cars that have the deadly p0690 code high volts between relay and pcm. Can benefit from having another ground wire. The volt spikes will disappear.
That means your Battery is trying to pull voltage from the alternator and the wire might not be able to handle the flow what size alternator wire did you use
@@xUglyGodx17 OK sounds like the fuse is causing a lot of resistance one thing you could do if you still have enough wire to reach the battery without the fuse block you could run the alternator straight to the battery. I ended up doing that with my recent hemi build because the alternator puts out so much amperage. If you run the alternator wire straight to the battery without the fuse block I highly suggest you loom the wire just to protect it more from being caught or grounded out ever
I have an high output alternator but when I connect it my battery light comes on and stays on but when I put my old one back on its fine.....I have had the new one tested and replaced...I was wondering if the new one needs to be grounded
+Mike Gray sounds like ELD problem I had with my 02 Honda Accord Lx, I found a way around by just keeping an accessory on and I get my full voltage and the battery light goes out, again just leaving my headlights fixed it. You should try it!
this is far from accurate or defended by the operation of electricity. An alternator is grounded through the case of the alternator through the engine block. adding a cable to the alternator does not help or performs any useful function. sorry to call this out, but hope this saves people time. instead create second grounds to the chassis and to the engine.
Yea but corrosion can be a bitch, not all are wise enough to clean the shit out of the mounting brackets for say a new alternator and then boom! Thats a shitty ground, instead of removing the alternator and wire brushing the brackets you can just bolt on a single wire, although if the alternator is old, you may have to clean the metal under one of the bolts for le new ground wire
Man ... Lol... I thought it was stupid to add 2 grounds to the battery in the big 3 upgrade already now your supposed to add yet another . Roflmao. You get better grounds if you ground the body to the frame , battery to the frame , and motor to the frame . Also what the hell is the point of using 0awg ? Its pointless . 4 ga will carry more amps in that short run than can be supplied .
Have any of you actually done this?! Obviously not and obviously none of you actually know anything about this! Yes 4g will work, but it'll still have more resistance than 0g ofc! You'll def notice a difference between 4g and 0g. The whole point of adding grounds, good grounds, is to help with keeping current flowing, with the least amount of resistance possible. It helps a ton! Instead of being idiots that just run your damn mouths, try it. It'll even help out your boss amps LMAO.
He's upgraded sound system, etc. asks for much more power, Scotty. Thank God it isn't a Ford. I had to ground heads to the frame to get a complete circuit for the glow plugs or spark plug systems. Ford Eng. should have been sent back to school. Decades of bad grounds on Fords.
@@jacksmith3189 took a Mazda through a flood in Calgary almost under water. The only thing that saved me is I hit the high ridge in the road middle and had a work mate in the passenger seat that weighed over 350 lbs. Kept the tires on the pavement. !!
@@ghostlyrich > You ever see the weird ground from a Honda Civic 2001? I've wasted alot of time on this when I tried to upgrade it. LOL. I wish you could see my design. I ended up buying a ground cable that was just like the original and threw away my design because I don't think I can understand what the heck is going on with the ground. I *HAD* created a cable (2 gauge) that split. 1 from the battery to the block (where the original battery ground cable bolted in) and 1 from the battery to the chassis (where the original cable was.....being held?) but that didn't work for some reason. Anyways, if you get a chance to check out the cable I would be interested in your thoughts.
@@MrOTcomputer when you say It isn't working is the battery just not charging or vehicle not starting ?. If you bolt one cable from were old chassy ground (body) make sure no pain and rust is were it grounds or it won't ground proper. Then one from block (engine) to battery you should be good. Make sure factory cables are not connected as this can cause a ground loop
@@jevontecole7836 is this a aftermarket alternator, what after market accessories are you using and what battery are you using with what age. It sounds like the battery and vehicle are drawing quite allot of amperage and the wire is under gauge.
Topped up?...topped up??? I must be watching this video late or misunderstanding something...but most batteries are sealed batteries or gel or glass matt or OPTIMAS...you're NOT supposed to or need to top-off batteries anymore...thats a thing of the past...plus...over filling batteries is dangerous...most don't know where TO fill up to and end up filling it all the way to the top...NOT SAFE.
Just a simple misunderstanding. Topped up, as in making sure your battery is fully charged. You always want use a battery charger to fully charge your battery before using your new alternator. Your alternator is already under heavy stress with your amplifiers pulling high current, but if your battery has low voltage to begin with, you’re unnecessarily forcing your alternator to charge much more of a load with less voltage which can cause your alternator to fail prematurely.
Not the way to do it. If you have a sensor on you ground wire to battery the new wire will have to run through it which means you need to take the factory wire out. And put sensor on the new wire or else voltage wont read correctly.
Yes, but the alternator has to work harder to achieve the same result when the ground has more resistance than say a cable straight to the negative battery terminal
Exactly. Copper conducts electricity 1000x faster than (ok maybe not quite 1000 but you get my point, relatively half and multiplied by the amount of material it has to pass through, on an engine is a LOT) steel, cast iron, even aluminum.
ahhh awesome man and congrats on the wicked bat and alternator to haha i only get dimming when i crank it really loud and have sub knob all the way up but yea big 3 and alt ground helped alot!
i have a 95 civic the alternator ground seems not to be working, if i run a 0 guage wire from alternator to battery would it do me any good? car has new alternator testes the old one and it passed aswell
I have never regreted putting a proper ground onto anything. I did 2 wires but didnt do the alternator due to lack of one L bracket at end of night . Will finish my big 3 upgrade by adding a REAL ground to the alternator. I have been having serious engine stalling after warm up with electric flickering being related 100% Can drive until stopping- then electrical issue begins. Same issue was fixed by another s10 owner by addressing single tiny ground wire coming off of alternator and replacing the wiring before it (aka pigtail) With that said A proper 1/0 wire coming from alternator to battery is a simple way to make darn sure the alternator is not going to be causing issues from insufficient ground. A few feet of wire and a few dollars in wire bracket is much cheaper than replacing alternator and praying- many had replaced alternators with no problem solved because they did not properly troubleshoot before buying parts. Took me 30 minutes to actually wire all of my body and frame grounds (2 hours to customize brackets and find longerbolt for my darn Chevy battery) Alternator will take another 10 to wire as there is a free bolt in sight May need a large fisher adapter , as opposed to wiring bracket, depending on space available. You likely have already dealt with this issue by now- But hopefully this helps the next guy smart enough to go to the comments looking for possible soutions to his problem!
rawk4life93 what do you think my problem could be? I have a 2011 chevy impala with a solo x12 sundown being powered by a hifonics zues elite 3300w. I have a 250a mechman alternator and a solo xs power d3400. I can't seem to figure out why I still receive headlight dimming. I get headlight dimming and rpm drops from just rolling up all my windows at the same time. Could this possibly be my grounds? Or do I need to think about getting a second battery. My sub is also wired to 1 ohm but the amp is only up 3/4 of its power. Please help could definitely use some opinions
This video is old school. The information is spot on. However the way the battery is connected in this video is shifty. Always good to invest in a 4 in one or 6 in one terminal clamp that allows for each ground and power wire to have its own spot. Helps with easy removal and is over all a cleaner look. Also, its unneeded to connect all amps to the battery in this fashion. Better would be to use a distribution block, with the grounds and power line in the cars battery sized appropriately. For example two amps at 4 gauge, use 0 gauge at battery. At this point you would upgrade the grounds of the battery to the amp, chasse, and motor to 0 gauge as well. The fuse at the car's battery would be sized according to total RMS wattage of all the amps. Then at the distribution block each amp would have the manufacturer's suggested fuse size. Clean and professional.
I know this is an old vide, but thought I would share my experience.
Initially I had a 2 gauge frm the the alternator body/case to battery (-) but still had issues with my digital temperature meter..It would go bonkers esp when I turned on the headlights and a/c.
But when I rerouted the same wire from alternator body/case to chassis nearest to battery, it seemed to have solved the issue...seems the alternator was struggling to send current to the otherside, maybe due to various dust,oil, greases around the block,engine,chasis...this worked best for me...
Did you connect the ground to the alternator mounting bolt or was it to the alternator case itself in the back via the casing bolts or the empty tap?
@Hammerback0 I did alt mounting bolt to chassis. Engine block to neg battery. Neg battery to chassis. And left all oem as well.
They’re all connected some how by the big3 just waste money I did it all didn’t notice anything
Perfect....just installed my CES alternator few days ago and was curious about alt ground update. Nailed it. Thanx
Let me see if I understand this, I can run a ground wire (0 gauge seems huge to me in this video, I'd think a simple 4 gauge would work for a ground too yes?) from the bolt that is holding my alternator (basically where you want to ground to the alternator) *directly to the negative on my battery?*
I ask because I have a Honda Civic 2001 that cranks but no start (doesn't seem to be getting spark & I replaced battery and starter but no go - so I replaced fuel relay but nope. Fuel pump is fine. Spark plugs and wires are fine. Leaves my alternator which was tested as weak right before this happened) but before I replace the alternator, I want to make sure it's getting the ground.
@@MrOTcomputer your crank sensor on your d17 is probably going bad
You're right adding a ground for the alternator to the battery is good. The only thing I'd add is. You don't have to ground directly to the alternator. The engine and alternator are metal bolted together. You just need to go from negative on the battery to the first convenient spot on the engine.
When you unbolted the mounting bolt for the alternator did it move around at all or it stayed in place?
I have a singer 275 amp alternator pushing a sundown saz 3500, my bass is a lot deeper after doing the big 3 and voltage never drops below 14
My neighbor left the positive battery cable on top of her engine and it burned through and touched ground. We figured out it killed the battery and I believe it killed the alternator as well but wouldn't the alternator whether it was bad or not still let the engine start? If a diode goes bad in there is AC in the DC voltage it will still run?
I messed around trying different grounding locations on my car. .. it has a very small 10-12ga wire from the passenger side motor mount to the chassis near the strut tower that's on the alt side my battery is on the opposite side I did the big three and jumped the wire from the chassis to the alt case then back to the battery and that was the best ground for me it made a noticeable difference in voltage as well as holding the power longer with just a single battery and 150a alt up front charging went from 13.8-14.0 to 14.3-14.5
Same here. Initially I had a 2gauge frm the the alternator body/case to battery (-) but still had issues with my digital temperature meter.
But when I rerouted the same wire from alternator body/case to chassis nearest to battery, it seemed to have solved the issue...seems the alternator was struggling to send current to the otherside, maybe due to various dust,oil, greases around the block,engine,chasis...this worked best for me...
So i have a bad engine ground was getting readings of -.10 on both the alternator case and the engine block. Car has been wanting to stall with the lights on and defrost on while in park. So is it possible to just add a secondary ground to the alternator and just not mess with the firewall ground? Or should i just replace the engine block to firewall ground? Thing is the engine block ground is in a total blind spot and my alternator is right up top in the front. It would be much easier i think to just get an earth strap or 0 gauge wire from alternator to the frame.
I'm having same trouble with my Chevy uplander I purchased a new alternator and battery my battery light is still on and I'm also getting a error message saying Charging System Failure any recommendations?
Mallory Robinson see comment above about 95 Honda alternator commented on
could be bad ground wire from alternator
check it as it is usually a tiny wire not suitable to handle a failing alternators power
Lemon
Old video I know, a lot of comments on whether grounding alternator right to the battery is necessary; remember there is more than 1 way to skin a cat, grounding directly to the battery is the path of least resistance so of course it is beneficial to the alternator output. Your chassis and engine should also be grounded to the battery though or else all your extra accessories are going to be using the ground through your alternator when the old small stock grounds fail
Every car is wires wrong.
Every amp kit is incomplete.
Im so mad that aftermarket alt companies and battery companies have not shared and written instructed that a ground from alt to batt is a must.especially in lithium apps.
Im actually redoing two expensive stereos for this fact.
So I'm confused now, do I ground my alternater to the body, negative battery, or positive battery, seen all three???
negative
This RUclipsr in the video I feel is confusing ppl...you dont need to necessarily ground the alternator body...you need to ground the ENGINE to the BODY or NEGATIVE POST/TERMINAL...any of those will do...point is to make engine and body (-)
@@betareybill9400 yeh, i think in grade six schools taught complete circuits. Ford Engineers never took that school. ALL Ford trucks had bad grounds for decades. Easy fix, though. Just ground to the frame.
@@betareybill9400 in an ideal world yes. There are exceptions such as alternators that use rubber mounts and rely on the bracket for grounding My classic car had resistance here because the bracket was painted (my bad) and it attaches to the water pump housing. The water pump bolts have thread tape on them
Good tip thank you..Did you consider shorter route like, from Alternator body to nearest chasis point..something like 14 inch long thick wire may work.
Sam Jas straight to battery for best ground and was avoiding a ground loop
That worked best for me alternator to chasis... I did the direct to battery (-) for a year, but didnt get good results. much better to chasis esp nearer the battery.
I know this is an older video but I need help. I dragged an old wood framed car out of the bush. It's got an oak frame in it. It has a delco alternator with a direct wire from the ground to the negative battery post with some kind of diode link on the post. Would you know what it might be?
Wierd i would think since its a wood framed car they would ground the block
Power would go from the positive post on alt and then to the battery which may have a fuse on it. The diode might be a ground loop isolator but hard to tell
I see that you don’t have battery post on the battery but just straight ring terminals. Is that efficient?
Clamp and post method is easier for when having to disconnect the battery. Bolting it down like i did can be more secure and takes the clamp out of the mix so less resistance
I installed a new battery because meter showed alternator was working hard to charge. The van started. I installed a new alternator, now the engine cranks but does not start. The weird thing is - the key is not even in the starting position, it is only in the first notch and the engine starts cranking. Even if I move the key to a full start - it only cranks and does not start. Any ideas on where to go from here.
Nice bro! This explains a lot. I've been getting some Deming when I put my windows up even lol. Is your alt noisy?
wow you battery sounds like it may be on its last legs. you might want a new bat or possibly a new alternator
What about the shorter stock ground should you remove it? Is it too small gauge wire?
leave all yuor stock wires in place . it will add redundancy to your system which is never bad
I already have the big 3 done, does adding that alt ground help a lot?
i did find it helped its easy to do
My 06 Dakota has a short in alternator power wire. What gauge wire can I replace it with? Everytime I crank truck I have to move the power wire to alternator to crank truck
Is this a 10th gen civic? If so, do you know where the engine ground point is?
Thanks for sharing. I wondered about this very topic.
I've been coming to the conclusion that running all the way to negative post can be misguided in some cases where the battery and alternator are on opposite sides of the engine compartment.
In this case it may be better to ground to the frame much closer to the alternator...
I just can't wrap my head around the idea of a 4 to 5 ft ground cable (in this case it would be a Honda Civic 10th gen)
I have a 2.3 mazda 6 and doing the big3. I can not find the +side of the alternator. Where the heck is it?
My alternator is down lower on this 11 fusion SE. After a huge storm i was on the highway driving through heavy rain and my transmission quit working right. Doesn't know what gear it's in. Sometimes its has all the gears when it's warmer or warmed up. But it only has 3rd through however many gears it has does great on the highway right now but starts off in 3rd gear. Code scanner at first said had two codes for range sensor, so I tore my car apart and changed it. Didn't fix it in the problem is intermittent so I'm starting to think it's voltage. And I really hope it's voltage because I won't mind feeling dumb at all if it is
You mentioned singer alternator I have sent them a half dozen emails in the past couple months and can't get a reply do they have a phone number Steve Meade recommended getting ahold of him for an alternator for my 19 Camry with the PCM controlled charging system and I can't get ahold of him to save my life lol autotech has a 290 amp model I've just heard really good things about singer any way to get in contact would be greatly appreciated thanks
Can you run the ground from the alternator to the chassis instead of back to the battery?
You could but for best results battery
@@ghostlyrich ty
Hello there is it ok to put the ground on to the alternator mount bolt?
For sure will ground the casing that way
@@ghostlyrich Thank you
Great work! Direct ground is the way to go.
3 questions.
What size fuse did you run of the zero gauge wire from the alt to the battery?
What size alternator are you running? And what is safe for the Mazda 3's
Is there a way to replace the fusible link on the stock power wire (brown one by the battery post with a breaker instead?
the stock power wire will not due for a bigger alternator. it is very simple to add a new wire and I would suggest a fuse size of 200-300 amp depending on what your new alternator pushs
+ghostlyrich when I hook my positive battery alternator and my starter main hot wires up to the positive, an connect my negitive wire up from the battery I get a bad sparking. could this result in needing to put a ground on the alternator and starter to not get any sparks while trying to hook it up.
+IceePrettyWings big sparks norman
+ghostlyrich normal
+ghostlyrich continuous sparks
If my alternator is draining the battery overnight can grounding it out stop it from doing that or am I going to have to replace it?
rhdadrian alt shouldn't drain the battery unless it's shorting. are you sure it's the alt shorting the battery?? how olds the battery if you disconnection does it just drain
why not make a short ground from the bolt to the frame
Ya I was thinking same thing... you don't have to make ground all the way to battery! Just find engine ground or frame!
So, the strut mount would be good, right?
Where did you get your xs power battery? Hard to find any in canada
sky high car audio has them on there website
EBay
To Kendall. Sorry bro it actually does help with certain cars. Especially if the car is having volt spikes that can mess with the pcm. Cars that have the deadly p0690 code high volts between relay and pcm. Can benefit from having another ground wire. The volt spikes will disappear.
thanks again for all the tips mate
ghostlyrich how can I make the wires mite heat resistance
Will this help fix hot alt wire. I got hot wire where u can’t Touch it. But one the the other end of wire that connected to the alt isn’t hot.
That means your Battery is trying to pull voltage from the alternator and the wire might not be able to handle the flow what size alternator wire did you use
Also is it just the alternator wire that is hot
So the end that goes into the fuse box is hot. The wire coming off the alt isn’t. Only the end from the alt to fuse box
@@xUglyGodx17 OK sounds like the fuse is causing a lot of resistance one thing you could do if you still have enough wire to reach the battery without the fuse block you could run the alternator straight to the battery. I ended up doing that with my recent hemi build because the alternator puts out so much amperage. If you run the alternator wire straight to the battery without the fuse block I highly suggest you loom the wire just to protect it more from being caught or grounded out ever
@@ghostlyrich so run one to the fuse box and run one to the battery ? And I am using 4 gauge wire and 90 amp alt.
What does it mean for battery to be “topped up”??
I'm pretty sure it means you made sure it's got enough distilled water in it and has been fully charged according to specs.
I have an high output alternator but when I connect it my battery light comes on and stays on but when I put my old one back on its fine.....I have had the new one tested and replaced...I was wondering if the new one needs to be grounded
Gm cuz
What's up cuz how u been
I'm blessed. To much for mess
+Mike Gray sounds like ELD problem I had with my 02 Honda Accord Lx, I found a way around by just keeping an accessory on and I get my full voltage and the battery light goes out, again just leaving my headlights fixed it. You should try it!
My battery is an xs power 2 months old at the most. I too run singer alternator 230 amps alternator. 2 weeks ago I installed it. Haha
awesome stuff!
this is far from accurate or defended by the operation of electricity. An alternator is grounded through the case of the alternator through the engine block. adding a cable to the alternator does not help or performs any useful function. sorry to call this out, but hope this saves people time. instead create second grounds to the chassis and to the engine.
Yea but corrosion can be a bitch, not all are wise enough to clean the shit out of the mounting brackets for say a new alternator and then boom! Thats a shitty ground, instead of removing the alternator and wire brushing the brackets you can just bolt on a single wire, although if the alternator is old, you may have to clean the metal under one of the bolts for le new ground wire
Lol, you are right, this doofus thinks its gonna "add power" because of a ground. fucking youtube idiot posters
Man ... Lol... I thought it was stupid to add 2 grounds to the battery in the big 3 upgrade already now your supposed to add yet another . Roflmao. You get better grounds if you ground the body to the frame , battery to the frame , and motor to the frame . Also what the hell is the point of using 0awg ? Its pointless . 4 ga will carry more amps in that short run than can be supplied .
Have any of you actually done this?! Obviously not and obviously none of you actually know anything about this! Yes 4g will work, but it'll still have more resistance than 0g ofc! You'll def notice a difference between 4g and 0g. The whole point of adding grounds, good grounds, is to help with keeping current flowing, with the least amount of resistance possible. It helps a ton! Instead of being idiots that just run your damn mouths, try it. It'll even help out your boss amps LMAO.
You can only receive as much power as your ground. Read something and get the F off of youtube.
But the engine is already ground daaah🙄
He's upgraded sound system, etc. asks for much more power, Scotty. Thank God it isn't a Ford. I had to ground heads to the frame to get a complete circuit for the glow plugs or spark plug systems. Ford Eng. should have been sent back to school. Decades of bad grounds on Fords.
I notice the alternator is low on the engine. That is foolish if you go though water whatis going to happen.
Voltage spikes to 17v lol. Had it happen
netzke10
Stock location
@@jacksmith3189 took a Mazda through a flood in Calgary almost under water. The only thing that saved me is I hit the high ridge in the road middle and had a work mate in the passenger seat that weighed over 350 lbs. Kept the tires on the pavement. !!
I've done put three on it,can u run a wire from the alternator to the battery BC it doesn't sound like it's grounded good?
Harriet Cisco the engine is grounded so to tell you the truth if your battery's dying like you say sounds like the alternators defective
This is good, but I highly recommend you upgrade the ground from the battery to the body. Then your work will be complete.
I did :)
@@ghostlyrich > You ever see the weird ground from a Honda Civic 2001? I've wasted alot of time on this when I tried to upgrade it. LOL. I wish you could see my design. I ended up buying a ground cable that was just like the original and threw away my design because I don't think I can understand what the heck is going on with the ground. I *HAD* created a cable (2 gauge) that split. 1 from the battery to the block (where the original battery ground cable bolted in) and 1 from the battery to the chassis (where the original cable was.....being held?) but that didn't work for some reason. Anyways, if you get a chance to check out the cable I would be interested in your thoughts.
@@MrOTcomputer when you say It isn't working is the battery just not charging or vehicle not starting ?. If you bolt one cable from were old chassy ground (body) make sure no pain and rust is were it grounds or it won't ground proper. Then one from block (engine) to battery you should be good. Make sure factory cables are not connected as this can cause a ground loop
Could no ground make alternator hot?
Alternator could be getting hot from a few things. Including heavy usage.
@@ghostlyrich heavy usage ?
@@ghostlyrich like to hot to touch, wire is getting hot. Would u happen to know if both black & orange wires go to positive terminal w a fuse link ?
@@jevontecole7836 is this a aftermarket alternator, what after market accessories are you using and what battery are you using with what age. It sounds like the battery and vehicle are drawing quite allot of amperage and the wire is under gauge.
My battery is in the back seat
Well, you better start driving backward
Topped up?...topped up??? I must be watching this video late or misunderstanding something...but most batteries are sealed batteries or gel or glass matt or OPTIMAS...you're NOT supposed to or need to top-off batteries anymore...thats a thing of the past...plus...over filling batteries is dangerous...most don't know where TO fill up to and end up filling it all the way to the top...NOT SAFE.
Just a simple misunderstanding. Topped up, as in making sure your battery is fully charged. You always want use a battery charger to fully charge your battery before using your new alternator. Your alternator is already under heavy stress with your amplifiers pulling high current, but if your battery has low voltage to begin with, you’re unnecessarily forcing your alternator to charge much more of a load with less voltage which can cause your alternator to fail prematurely.
Not the way to do it. If you have a sensor on you ground wire to battery the new wire will have to run through it which means you need to take the factory wire out. And put sensor on the new wire or else voltage wont read correctly.
good info jest need to clean up the wiring alittle
Ghostlyrich
I bought a new alternator and my battery light stays on,and eventually the car quits,what is wrong?
Harriet Cisco alternator sounds defective I would put a volt meter on it. if it isn't charging past 13 volts
Same thing happens to me. What car do you have?
My 1998 Lincoln town car power wire is getting hot and melting plastic coating
Devan Castille its making contact with ground or something like that that was happening to my 2004 eclipse
What size wire you got on it?
IF you go from the Alt to your chassis is that the same as going to your batt neg?
Yes, but the alternator has to work harder to achieve the same result when the ground has more resistance than say a cable straight to the negative battery terminal
Exactly. Copper conducts electricity 1000x faster than (ok maybe not quite 1000 but you get my point, relatively half and multiplied by the amount of material it has to pass through, on an engine is a LOT) steel, cast iron, even aluminum.
Its not a bad dim just minor one.
ahhh awesome man and congrats on the wicked bat and alternator to haha i only get dimming when i crank it really loud and have sub knob all the way up but yea big 3 and alt ground helped alot!
Lol thanks! You too. Singer ftw!
Its a brand new alternator and battery,and battery light is on and runs until it drains the battery,what is wrong?
glostlyrich
you sound like bob saget
N
I hate the first 1 minute of these guys, they talk too damn much
Waste of time not installed correctly
i have a 95 civic the alternator ground seems not to be working, if i run a 0 guage wire from alternator to battery would it do me any good? car has new alternator testes the old one and it passed aswell
I have never regreted putting a proper ground onto anything.
I did 2 wires but didnt do the alternator due to lack of one L bracket at end of night . Will finish my big 3 upgrade by adding a REAL ground to the alternator.
I have been having serious engine stalling after warm up with electric flickering being related 100%
Can drive until stopping- then electrical issue begins.
Same issue was fixed by another s10 owner by addressing single tiny ground wire coming off of alternator and replacing the wiring before it (aka pigtail)
With that said
A proper 1/0 wire coming from alternator to battery is a simple way to make darn sure the alternator is not going to be causing issues from insufficient ground.
A few feet of wire and a few dollars in wire bracket is much cheaper than replacing alternator and praying- many had replaced alternators with no problem solved because they did not properly troubleshoot before buying parts.
Took me 30 minutes to actually wire all of my body and frame grounds (2 hours to customize brackets and find longerbolt for my darn Chevy battery)
Alternator will take another 10 to wire as there is a free bolt in sight
May need a large fisher adapter , as opposed to wiring bracket, depending on space available.
You likely have already dealt with this issue by now-
But hopefully this helps the next guy smart enough to go to the comments looking for possible soutions to his problem!
rawk4life93 what do you think my problem could be? I have a 2011 chevy impala with a solo x12 sundown being powered by a hifonics zues elite 3300w. I have a 250a mechman alternator and a solo xs power d3400. I can't seem to figure out why I still receive headlight dimming. I get headlight dimming and rpm drops from just rolling up all my windows at the same time. Could this possibly be my grounds? Or do I need to think about getting a second battery. My sub is also wired to 1 ohm but the amp is only up 3/4 of its power. Please help could definitely use some opinions