Thanks man, got stucked in 20m crevasse at Iceland while Climbing Hvannadalshnukur for a good 2h with my mountain guide and thankfully he managed to climb out and rescue me. Ever since im trying to learn more about mountaineering and this was by far the most comprehensive video about crevasse rescue i came across, Thank you.
joshua carver In this demo we were on snow that was piled up on top of the glacial ice. I'd like an expert to backup this opinion but I believe if we were on ice we would use an ice screw(s). We wouldn't be able to bury the picks and/or axes if we were on ice. Due to the fact that we were on snow, we made snow anchors.
David McDowell alright thank you with ice screws would it matter the size you use with making the anchor ? or would you use the longest ice anchor you have ?
Nice video, good see a method that doesn't use pulleys, micro tracxion, or a Tibloc. Super simple prusik, carabiner, and ATC setup to make a 3:1 > 6:1.
Thanks! I was a student while filming... had I thought more, I would have done some closer camera shots on certain things like the rig and circled around it, but Kai's explanations are great even if the visual aid isn't perfect.
i think it is great, you can clearly hear what he is saying. and it might have helped getting closer shots, but the wider view gives you a complete picture of the whole system, so i think you did well. thanks again :)
Josh Owen You're welcome. The explanations are great! As a non certified instructor though I must defer my own explanations, it's a very hands on learning experience. I recommend a American Alpine Institute or Rainier Mountaineering course.
+Josh Owen, I'm not sure what exactly is your question? If you would be more detailed in your question I would be happy to answer them for you. You can email, pm or text me as well. facebook.com/Your-Everest-Conquering-Lifes-Summits-123310687732303/
Would anyone know where the second anchor got clipped into on the system? I thought it was the master locking Carabiner, which he said shouldn't or couldn't be opened. Thank you!
Mikey Revell the carabiner on the end of the sling attached to the 2nd anchor clips into the master locking carabiner. The master does not need to be opened to clip a carabiner into it.
Thanks for very good video! At 8:40, this seems very useful, but I can't figure out how you lock the daisy chain so it can hold the weight without weakening the chord too much. How is this done?
Vegard Bergskås I’m not the instructor so I’m not 100% on this but have you ever taken a nylon sling and held it with 2 carabiners (one on each end) then fed 1 biner through the other, clip it in just so to make it shorter? If you undo this correctly it stretches back out and now you have the full length of the runner again with biners still attached? I’ll try to find a URL.
I can’t speak to the article’s choice of dyneema vs nylon runner vs using 8mm cord, but this shows with pictures what I was trying to describe: www.vdiffclimbing.com/extend-draw/ The instructor may have been setup like this, I can’t remember.
Thanks for the reply :) In this case I think the other end of the chord is a Prusik to the main rope, not a carabiner, so I don't think the extended quickdraw will work very well for this. When I look at the video on a bigger screen I can see some of the knot, but I can't quite figure it out. The Purcell Prusik is the best way I have found yet, but what the instructor uses in this video seems a little quicker and easier to use in a rescue situation. Provided the knot he uses does not weaken the chord to much.
Guess it was kind of easy. It's a normal Daisy Chain (as the instructor says). Just need to end it correctly. Uploaded a pic of in on Imgur: imgur.com/a/rlk69b5 Depending on how the rest of the hauling system is set up, you don't need to load this knot with much more than the weight of the victim. In that case the load on the knot should be no problem :)
If there was one thing I wish I had were more detailed close-ups but I didn’t want to slow down the instructor or get in the way of the other students. He did say daisy chain... and ultimately yes, the anchor system once setup is meant for the victim and the rescuer is (while still connected for risk reduction) not weighting the system when pulley system rigging begins.
The only thing that could have been done better was to tie a munter mule on the anchor instead of a figure eight on a bite. Then the load could have been transferred to the rope without the cordalette. In addition, there now is a capture for the z-drag. But there’s so many ways to do this type of rescue. To each their own.
I have no confidence in people who step on my rope with their spikes. It doesn't matter if the rope is loaded or not, after this kind of treatment the rope is compromised, don't you think? 🤣😉👎
Thanks man, got stucked in 20m crevasse at Iceland while Climbing Hvannadalshnukur for a good 2h with my mountain guide and thankfully he managed to climb out and rescue me. Ever since im trying to learn more about mountaineering and this was by far the most comprehensive video about crevasse rescue i came across, Thank you.
One of the best crevasse rescue demonstrations I have seen. Excellent detail and explanations.
Osbie Griffith im new to ice climbing wouldnt you be placing a ice anchor if you were in ice ?? using ice anchors
joshua carver In this demo we were on snow that was piled up on top of the glacial ice. I'd like an expert to backup this opinion but I believe if we were on ice we would use an ice screw(s). We wouldn't be able to bury the picks and/or axes if we were on ice. Due to the fact that we were on snow, we made snow anchors.
David McDowell alright thank you with ice screws would it matter the size you use with making the anchor ? or would you use the longest ice anchor you have ?
joshua carver This is where I have to defer to the experts, i have no training to date regarding ice screws, sorry.
alright well thank you for the information you have given me
Nice video, good see a method that doesn't use pulleys, micro tracxion, or a Tibloc. Super simple prusik, carabiner, and ATC setup to make a 3:1 > 6:1.
good instructor and prob the best vid I've seen on the subject.
still the best video on this topic that i have come across. thanks for sharing with the world :)
Thanks! I was a student while filming... had I thought more, I would have done some closer camera shots on certain things like the rig and circled around it, but Kai's explanations are great even if the visual aid isn't perfect.
i think it is great, you can clearly hear what he is saying. and it might have helped getting closer shots, but the wider view gives you a complete picture of the whole system, so i think you did well. thanks again :)
Thanks for posting this! Can you explain how he sets up his glacier rig? It's a little hard to understand in the video.
Josh Owen You're welcome. The explanations are great! As a non certified instructor though I must defer my own explanations, it's a very hands on learning experience. I recommend a American Alpine Institute or Rainier Mountaineering course.
+Josh Owen, I'm not sure what exactly is your question? If you would be more detailed in your question I would be happy to answer them for you. You can email, pm or text me as well. facebook.com/Your-Everest-Conquering-Lifes-Summits-123310687732303/
great video
Would anyone know where the second anchor got clipped into on the system? I thought it was the master locking Carabiner, which he said shouldn't or couldn't be opened. Thank you!
Mikey Revell the carabiner on the end of the sling attached to the 2nd anchor clips into the master locking carabiner. The master does not need to be opened to clip a carabiner into it.
Thanks for very good video!
At 8:40, this seems very useful, but I can't figure out how you lock the daisy chain so it can hold the weight without weakening the chord too much. How is this done?
Vegard Bergskås I’m not the instructor so I’m not 100% on this but have you ever taken a nylon sling and held it with 2 carabiners (one on each end) then fed 1 biner through the other, clip it in just so to make it shorter? If you undo this correctly it stretches back out and now you have the full length of the runner again with biners still attached? I’ll try to find a URL.
I can’t speak to the article’s choice of dyneema vs nylon runner vs using 8mm cord, but this shows with pictures what I was trying to describe: www.vdiffclimbing.com/extend-draw/ The instructor may have been setup like this, I can’t remember.
Thanks for the reply :)
In this case I think the other end of the chord is a Prusik to the main rope, not a carabiner, so I don't think the extended quickdraw will work very well for this. When I look at the video on a bigger screen I can see some of the knot, but I can't quite figure it out.
The Purcell Prusik is the best way I have found yet, but what the instructor uses in this video seems a little quicker and easier to use in a rescue situation. Provided the knot he uses does not weaken the chord to much.
Guess it was kind of easy. It's a normal Daisy Chain (as the instructor says). Just need to end it correctly. Uploaded a pic of in on Imgur: imgur.com/a/rlk69b5
Depending on how the rest of the hauling system is set up, you don't need to load this knot with much more than the weight of the victim. In that case the load on the knot should be no problem :)
If there was one thing I wish I had were more detailed close-ups but I didn’t want to slow down the instructor or get in the way of the other students. He did say daisy chain... and ultimately yes, the anchor system once setup is meant for the victim and the rescuer is (while still connected for risk reduction) not weighting the system when pulley system rigging begins.
The only thing that could have been done better was to tie a munter mule on the anchor instead of a figure eight on a bite. Then the load could have been transferred to the rope without the cordalette. In addition, there now is a capture for the z-drag. But there’s so many ways to do this type of rescue. To each their own.
'i don't really need a Helmet'!Lol! Hmmm........?
I have no confidence in people who step on my rope with their spikes. It doesn't matter if the rope is loaded or not, after this kind of treatment the rope is compromised, don't you think? 🤣😉👎
Stepping on a rope with spikes is definitely not a good idea.