When you're going to shorten any bolt, always thread a nut onto it below where you're going to cut. When you have removed the sharp edges the nut will clean out the thread as you unscrew it from the bolt.
One big bonus of making one of these jigsaw tables is that when you turn the saw upside down, and you cut your wood with the marking on the topside the tear out is on the bottom, which doesn't happen if you use the jigsaw the "normal" way up. I never seen anyone comment on this advantage of a jigsaw table. Cleaner cuts straight away.
This took quite a bit of work just to please your fans. Much respect! I still think I'm going to save up for a bandsaw. Already have a hand me down scroll saw from my Grandpa. Great engineering!
Cool idea. A tip for you. When threading wood try soaking the threads in the wood with thin viscosity super glue. 2 - 3 applications. Then chase the threads again with the tap after the glue is thoroughly dry. Your threads will be much stronger!
Thank you, and thanks for the tip! I think somebody mentioned that before (it might have been you), but I've yet to try it. Maybe I'll do a test where I see how much force it adds to the force required to break the threads. If I do, I'll be sure to post a video!
I made it and, as per my previous comment, I turned the blade 90 degrees so that the arm didn't get in the way of a long cut. It works brilliantly. Thank you for the design. I had to make some minor alterations, like making the it wider to fit the jigsaw now that it has been turned. Also, when fitting the bolt for the bearing at the new angle which went down the arm instead of across it, I found that if the hole is cut 1 size smaller, the bolt self tapped, so no need for the nut the other end. Cant wait to try the next one......
Great idea! I made one in an afternoon, with some simple modifications, using the odd offcuts I had lying around. As my jigsaw only permitted around 3 cm of blade through the base, I had to mount the arm a little lower, despite this, I put the blade guides below the arm, as I only intend to use it for cutting out precise shapes in fairly thin board. Works like a dream! Thanks again.
I may add that I also used a "t-nut" - like the fixing found inside a bed divan - instead of threading the wood , along with a spare bedhead fixing bolt, so a ready-made and effective adjustment handle.
Hi Tommy, I shouldn't be surprised anymore !!! Yet I still get Amazed by your TALENT !!! You are very Humble and explain each step as you go very well. I like your style of videos as well with the Naration. I don't care for the kind where they point and assume that the viewers know what each piece is. I also appreciate you talking about mistakes made so we don't need to make them also. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and videos, Rodney
I am so glad I watched this. I never even thought about making internal cuts! I was just planning to make a bandsaw substitute but this is so much better.
Pretty clever idea. You guys who come up with these jigs never cease to amaze me. Everyone is telling me the most important tool in the shop besides a table saw is a band saw. Well, problem solved (except for those tall re-saw jobs which I will probably never do anyway). Thanks so much for inspiring me and potentially saving me hundreds of dollars.
It's not a true replacement for a bandsaw, but it will certainly fill in for one. The major benefit of this is that you can make internal cuts, and the major benefit of a bandsaw is the blade only traveling downward. This tends to make the piece jump, so you need to hold it more firmly than you would a bandsaw. Again, it's certainly nice to have as a fill in, and it takes up a lot less room. Either way, I'm glad you dig it. Thanks for letting me know!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, talent and videos. I thought the blade would be open because of when you talked about the inside cuts? I realize that the bearing gives it strength and support. The final picture looks like a homemade scrollsaw. However you look at it? It's AWESOME !!! Thanks again for sharing your talent and videos, Rodney
Nice to see the guide arm is doubled up for strength and this removers vibration + adds stability, excellent build, for me I made very similar but in a free standing box frame so I can use on site for portability purposes. A plugin NVR can be used if you intend to use the jigsaw freehand!
ABSOLUTELY SMASHING JOB .I'M NEARLY 80 BEEN A CHIPPY ALL MY WORKING LIFE AND I KNOW YOU DON' T NEED ANY IMPROVEMENT POINTERS .BUT AS THEY SAY IN THE UK ,ALL THE BEST PLAYERS ARE WATCHING FROM THE LINE . THANKS TONY T.
anthony thomas .. Hello Anthony, i totally agree with you!! One question to you: what kind of dustmask do you use every day? Please could give you me an advise? The electrical woodworker dust mask is 400 euro here in Holland. Thanks in advance and have a nice day!🤝
Nice build! It would be great if you could start videos with short demonstration how it is used and main construction points and then jump into build details.
A great idea. I only have an 18v cordless Jigsaw but I may still make this jig for it. One thing I will do is make the blade guides out of the plastic I used for mitre slot guides for my table saw sleds. Thank you. Tony.
There's little doubt that this type of saw can solve many problems. A scroll saw just is not generally intense enough for thicker woods. This setup is well planned out and should handle the cuts you would normally use a bandsaw for. I would like to build this as I have an old electric Craftsman jigsaw. Thanks for the video! You are well suited for RUclips, great job!
Thanks for sharing that idea! I was actually going to do that, but it limited my depth of cut, so I went with wooden blocks. Honestly, I'm glad I ended up going with the wooden blocks because they work very well, and are dead simple to make/setup/use. Anyway, I hope this helps!
Thanks for directing me to a video where you use threaded wood holes and metal bolts! Definitely something to add to the tool bag, ;-) As for this jig saw table, pretty neat. I don't believe I've seen this before. A couple random notes: you could add washers under the blade guide screws for more even clamping force and reduced likelihood of other problems. Some paste wax on your blade and the blade guides may help things run more smoothly, unless you happen to be able to get some lignum vitae which would be awesome for this application. Alternatively some hdpe or UHMW pe would work well too. You mention that it's pretty good at tight turns but your using a fairly wide blade with a large tooth pattern, a more narrow blade with more teeth meant for fine cutting should get you as tight a turn as you could hope for, I'd imagine. Fantastic tool and a great way to repurpose a "broken" jigsaw.
Great idea well executed. I think I'd like to have a cover on the end of the blade support arm to cover where the end of the blade where it would stab you if you got any flesh near it. I was surprised that you didn't mount the switch flush with the top instead of on the surface. There are narrower jigsaw blades that would be helpful for tighter turning radius.
Your hands are usually well below the rising blade for you to be stabbed from it, I guess if you feel you need that extra safety then go for it, but make it long enough to not hit the blade once you make adjustments when lowering!
Dear Tommy, I do miss my bandsaw but what you built is a very functional alternative. Thanks for sharing. A couple of flat washers beneath the heads of the side guide screws would protect the guides from cracking. Cheers.
Definitely stealing this idea! Subscribed. 3 Options: 1) Use a rechargable saw. 2) Use steel tubing with the wooden top. 3) Use all steel and a little bit of welding. I'm thinking about Option 3 myself, but to each their own! 😊
Free hand jigsaws are fine if you don't feed them in to fast and hard to a work peace, you can getaway with better results inverting them into a table saw though!
I've probably said this before, but you need more subs!! Your work (and in particular your explanation of the process) is awesome. Love your channel fella.....
Nice work, Tommy! Looks like another project for me👍🏼 Thanks for your efforts. I had a scroll saw but didn't find it that useful so returned it for a bandsaw, which gets a hammering.This will be a very adequate replacement. I have just finished a disc sander based on yours. All worked very well and it has repurposed a Makita corded drill that has gathered dust for years. Cheers from Western Australia.
Michael, thank you so much for wonderful compliments, and thanks for buying plans/supporting my channel! I'm glad to know that the disc sander has been working well for you - it always makes me happy to hear when someone has completed a project. Thanks again, and good luck with your future projects!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Exactly my thoughts. I would like to have a bandsaw, but I really just don't have space in my garage (yet). I'm planning on building a small shop on a shed in my roof, where I will have space for that and more, but for now I could use some jig like this one. I'll keep your design in mind; looks like it works fine.
You basically made an upside down (?) scroll saw. Great tool and video. I like that you show HOW you work and your creative process along the way ... really helps newer woodworkers. We almost don't need the plans ... yet u include them as well! Also, you get right to it ... no BS about your dog or what you did last weekend! Two small suggestions: if u use the wooden guides with the screws use washers and maybe even countersink first. OR make the guides out of UHMW plastic (better option I think). Btw, if any newbie is thinking of just clamping his jigsaw upside-down into vise ... DON"T! It's okay for cutting thin stock (thin long dowel stock or thin square stock) but anything else is dangerous. I know because I "jackassedly" said "why not just strap the old jigsaw into the vise" etc. That's why I watch videos ... esp when making homemade tools.
I like your design much better than my crude setup. I didn't re-inforce the outside of the table and got so much vibration, while attempting to cut a board, that I got a terrible blood blister from being pinched.
Seems like it will vibrate a lot in the vice. I’ve watched many videos on this topic and the only only guide designs that will last a long time are the builds with a bearing on each side and one in the back.
Good idea. However, let me suggest that you used flat head screws in a lot of places where you should have used pan head. And put some washers under your blade guide screws. Also, using a scroll style jig saw blade will allow you to make better turns with less vibration.
Not trying to tell you what to do but experience says vibration is your enemy where counter sunk screws are concerned. I would expect the arm that holds the bearing will eventually work loose. Have a great day!
Great project, Tommy! I've got 2 questions: 1. Why 6 coats of poly? Isn't it a bit of overkill for a shop project? 2. Wouldn't a couple of bearings be better for blade guides than wood? My point is overheating the blade from friction.
Thank you! I usually add 6 coats of poly when working with Baltic Birch plywood, because that's usually how many it takes to get good coverage (the plywood soaks it up like a sponge for the first few coats). Poly is easy to wipe down if get it dirty (like if you get some grease or oil on jigsaw table), but it only works if you have good coverage. If you don't have good coverage, the grease/oil will soak through to the wood, and your homemade shop tools start looking pretty rough. I like to have hard clear finishes (as opposed to paint) for shop projects, primarily because shop projects take a lot of abuse...I also dig the more natural look of the finish. I thought about using bearings for the side guides as well, but they would have reduced my depth of cut for this particular design. I think the wooden blocks will be fine it terms of heat build up. The blade is positioned so that it is close to each block, but not actually touching.So as you cut, the blade moves ever so slightly from block to block as you make changes in your cut path, and is never really applying consistent or hard friction to either block. In other words, the blocks aren't "pinching" the blade. Anyway thanks for the questions! I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbenchThank you so much for the answer, I really appreciate the attention to detail and the feedback on your channel, Tommy. I wish you nothing but success. Cheers!
You don't need the any blade guides. The jigsaw blade is designed not to twist, and will not twist or deform if you work "kindly" with it... for example not trying to cut tight curves with a huge fat blade like this guy shows in this video. Consider this: the jigsaw doesn't had any blade guides to begin with, yet works just fine... go figure!
Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed the project! And yes, I do keep ALL my scraps, and therefore have a nice collection. My girlfriend might argue that I have TOO NICE of a collection...or at least too large of one - lol 🤣 Plus, I've built a lot of tools from Baltic Birch plywood over the last year, so I've been accumulating those high quality scraps this whole time. I've also learned that when I go shopping for electrical switches, boxes, bolts, nuts, etc., to just buy extras of everything. Those plastic boxes and light switches are cheap (usually about $1 or less), so I just buy handfuls of them - saving a trip to the store is worth having extra hardware on hand. Actually though, I think the plywood used for this job was only about 40" x 26" worth. So if you were to build it from scratch, you'd need about $10 worth of plywood, $2-3 in electrical, $2 in hardware, and a few cents worth of hardwood. Let's say about $15 total. Anyway, thanks again! Now you gotta start working on building up your scrap box 😉
Will do the scrap box thing for sure. I already mounted a jigsaw under a small table which I use often, but will enlarge the work area and add the guide arm. I like how you've done yours and will copy it. Thanks again for sharing and tell your girlfriend that a woodworking hobby is about the best for a man....keeps one at home, but not in the house underfoot. My wife is not too bad with a hammer and saw either.
Good luck with adding the guide arm - let me know how t goes! And I was (mostly) joking about my girlfriend‘s commentary. She’s very supportive and has actually gotten into woodworking too. She has built several pieces of furniture (mostly tables) that have all turned out really great. I like to brag that I taught her everything she knows, but the reality is that she’s just a smart cookie and learning comes easy to her. Don’t tell her I said that though 😉
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Hello it's me again and the blade guide works perfectly..... I installed a smaller blade for much better (smaller) curves and circles. Anaco, Anz.
This is pretty awesome stuff. I need one of these and my first attempt at this was JANKY at best. I like this design and will likely tweak it a bit for my use case. Good work!
Great idea. Much better than me just clamping a jigsaw upside down in a Workmate to cut a circle from plexi. It worked, but a lot of finishing work to get it "perfect".
Cheaper and more effective than the wood guide blocks, Use graphite brush blocks just like on a bandsaw (from an angle grinder spares or drilling machine or any other universal motor). Added bonus, graphite works like a lube for the blade and prevents wood burn.
Hi Tommy, You've done it again and built something that would cost a fortune to buy, for a few pounds (in the UK). Thanks for sharing. When are you going to make the plans available? I love the fact that your plans are available at a very reasonable cost as well. Cheers, Huw
Thanks, Huw! I'm glad to know that you are finding the videos & plans helpful! The plans for this project are already up. Here's a link: oneminuteworkbench.com/product/vise-mounted-jigsaw-table/ Thanks again, and good luck!
Love it. Try it with a sawzall with an adjustable height for different size and type blades. I might even try it when I get time . Thanks for sharing. Like your ideas.
I like that you use real world tools. You aren't using the most expensive tools to get the same results. Like the cheapie Ryobi jig saw. You could make blade guilds from a dollar store cutting board. Have you cut 3/4 or 5/4 material yet ?
Cool little project! I bet u could get close to scroll saw cut radii going to an 1/8” shank blade. One thing: For Xmas I’m gonna have Santa bring you a proper set of driver bits so you can throw those little stubby PITA away - ditto for your 1/4” socket rig LOL.
Awesome jig saw.....thank you !!! Question in regards to the guide...some people use two bearings and have the blade in between....some people including yourself use the wood guide......should the blade touch the guide/bearings on both sides or just slightly off ???? Thank you again !!!!!!! cant wait to make one myself
Güzel çalışma.👏👌 Fakat kesim yaparken rahat dönemiyorsunuz. Bunun için testere bıçağını arka taraftan inceltirseniz rahat dönüş yapabilirsiniz. Testereyi arka taraftan % 50 keserek bunu yapa bilirsiniz.
I've used helicoil type thread inserts for putting metal threads in wood before, the kits come with an oversized tap you use in the same manner as you did here. I insert the thread insert with quick set 2 pack epoxy on them
Rs Davies..... The inserts are good for sure, but if using Baltic plywood they aren't necessary because the density of the plywood is sufficient to take direct threading and holds up well to normal use. Anaco, Anz.
Don't use helicoils - those are for METAL. Use a thread insert designed for wood, which you can buy at any decent hardware outlet. They are often in the shelves where the accessories are for chipboard flatpack furniture, since it's the most reliable way to put a thread into MDF etc.
I have an old jigsaw laying around, but I think I'd rather have the blade perpendicular to the way yours is set, leaves potential for ripping longer boards. top notch tho
Thank you, and thanks for the feedback about the blade guide arm. I thought about making it to where the arm could be moved to the side, or the back to accommodate any type of cut, but based on the type of comments I received from viewers who wanted this, it seemed like most of them had a table saw for making rips anyway. That said, if you build one, you could mount the arm on the side, or as I mentioned make it an option for the side or the back. Anyway, if you do tackle it, good luck!
I like the design with the blade guide base mounted vertically. Its adjustable and seems to control the tension better and helps eliminate vibration. Just from watching videos I havent built one. But what kind of bearings are these.
I was thinking about making it so that it could be used from the back or either side...maybe on a future build. The bearings are just standard skate bearings (also called 608 bearings). I hope this helps!
An Amazing idea, I even gave it a like, and I do really, really enjoy the idea has a whole!! BUT I do not own a band saw, nor do I own a workbench, and I certainly DO NOT have a bench vice!! And I am 54 years old who is also now disabled! My shop you might ask too, is tiny, only 8 foot by 8 foot big and then space is always a problem!!! It really bugs me I can't do more work as well, because of my medical problems but further not having basic tools like a band saw, drill press or a bench vice, really makes things hard for me as well too!!!
Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed the video! I'm sorry to hear that medical issues have slowed you down, but I hope you're able to find a way to continue getting into the shop and getting some time in with your hobby. Best of luck!
this guy has very realistic and practical videos. (not making a little thing by $60,000 tools). if you make any money here, I hope you make more.
Thanks for the sentiment - I appreciate it!
I like the idea of the Jigsaw.Saw gives me an audience to build my own thanks , mark
When you're going to shorten any bolt, always thread a nut onto it below where you're going to cut. When you have removed the sharp edges the nut will clean out the thread as you unscrew it from the bolt.
Nice tip
One big bonus of making one of these jigsaw tables is that when you turn the saw upside down, and you cut your wood with the marking on the topside the tear out is on the bottom, which doesn't happen if you use the jigsaw the "normal" way up. I never seen anyone comment on this advantage of a jigsaw table. Cleaner cuts straight away.
This took quite a bit of work just to please your fans. Much respect! I still think I'm going to save up for a bandsaw. Already have a hand me down scroll saw from my Grandpa. Great engineering!
Thank you very much, and good luck in your search for a bandsaw!
Cool idea. A tip for you. When threading wood try soaking the threads in the wood with thin viscosity super glue. 2 - 3 applications. Then chase the threads again with the tap after the glue is thoroughly dry. Your threads will be much stronger!
Thank you, and thanks for the tip! I think somebody mentioned that before (it might have been you), but I've yet to try it. Maybe I'll do a test where I see how much force it adds to the force required to break the threads. If I do, I'll be sure to post a video!
Agree. It’s well worth doing. Game changer / you get threads that are as tough as AL or brass inserts.
Dang that's a good idea.
Nothing to say but love watching the process.
Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed it 🙂
I made it and, as per my previous comment, I turned the blade 90 degrees so that the arm didn't get in the way of a long cut. It works brilliantly. Thank you for the design. I had to make some minor alterations, like making the it wider to fit the jigsaw now that it has been turned. Also, when fitting the bolt for the bearing at the new angle which went down the arm instead of across it, I found that if the hole is cut 1 size smaller, the bolt self tapped, so no need for the nut the other end. Cant wait to try the next one......
It sounds awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thank You Everybody for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.. Peace Shalom Salam Namaste 🙏🏻😊🌈✌☮❤🕊
Si verdad??? Que sigan talando árboles no??
Great idea! I made one in an afternoon, with some simple modifications, using the odd offcuts I had lying around. As my jigsaw only permitted around 3 cm of blade through the base, I had to mount the arm a little lower, despite this, I put the blade guides below the arm, as I only intend to use it for cutting out precise shapes in fairly thin board. Works like a dream! Thanks again.
I may add that I also used a "t-nut" - like the fixing found inside a bed divan - instead of threading the wood , along with a spare bedhead fixing bolt, so a ready-made and effective adjustment handle.
Hi Tommy,
I shouldn't be surprised anymore !!! Yet I still get Amazed by your TALENT !!!
You are very Humble and explain each step as you go very well. I like your style of videos as well with the Naration. I don't care for the kind where they point and assume that the viewers know what each piece is. I also appreciate you talking about mistakes made so we don't need to make them also. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and videos, Rodney
Thank you for the wonderful compliments, Rodney! I'm glad to know that you're still digging the channel after all this time!
Being stuck in the Corona Virus shutdown leaves plenty of time for home “workshop” tasks. Thanks again for this video.
I am so glad I watched this. I never even thought about making internal cuts! I was just planning to make a bandsaw substitute but this is so much better.
Awesome, gone all cordless so converting old tools I have. I will be definitely be adding this.
Pretty clever idea. You guys who come up with these jigs never cease to amaze me. Everyone is telling me the most important tool in the shop besides a table saw is a band saw. Well, problem solved (except for those tall re-saw jobs which I will probably never do anyway). Thanks so much for inspiring me and potentially saving me hundreds of dollars.
It's not a true replacement for a bandsaw, but it will certainly fill in for one. The major benefit of this is that you can make internal cuts, and the major benefit of a bandsaw is the blade only traveling downward. This tends to make the piece jump, so you need to hold it more firmly than you would a bandsaw. Again, it's certainly nice to have as a fill in, and it takes up a lot less room. Either way, I'm glad you dig it. Thanks for letting me know!
The jigsaw table is a really a really neat build and you have a lot of excellent ideas. Thanks for sharing this.
Thank you very much, John!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, talent and videos. I thought the blade would be open because of when you talked about the inside cuts? I realize that the bearing gives it strength and support. The final picture looks like a homemade scrollsaw. However you look at it? It's AWESOME !!! Thanks again for sharing your talent and videos, Rodney
Thank you, Rodney! I appreciate the compliments, and am glad you're enjoying my videos!
Nice to see the guide arm is doubled up for strength and this removers vibration + adds stability, excellent build, for me I made very similar but in a free standing box frame so I can use on site for portability purposes. A plugin NVR can be used if you intend to use the jigsaw freehand!
Glad you enjoyed it - thanks for the feedback!
ABSOLUTELY SMASHING JOB .I'M NEARLY 80 BEEN A CHIPPY ALL MY WORKING LIFE AND I KNOW YOU DON' T NEED ANY IMPROVEMENT POINTERS .BUT AS THEY SAY IN THE UK ,ALL THE BEST PLAYERS ARE WATCHING FROM THE LINE .
THANKS TONY T.
Thank you!
anthony thomas .. Hello Anthony, i totally agree with you!!
One question to you: what kind of dustmask do you use every day?
Please could give you me an advise?
The electrical woodworker dust mask is 400 euro here in Holland.
Thanks in advance and have a nice day!🤝
Loved the arm as well, being able to do internal cuts is a cool idea, cheers mate.
Nice build! It would be great if you could start videos with short demonstration how it is used and main construction points and then jump into build details.
Thank you, and thanks for the suggestion!
A great idea. I only have an 18v cordless Jigsaw but I may still make this jig for it. One thing I will do is make the blade guides out of the plastic I used for mitre slot guides for my table saw sleds. Thank you. Tony.
While I won't be making one of these (I have a bandsaw and a scroll saw) I did like seeing the build, there is always something to learn!
Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed it!
A couple of face mounted skate bearings make solid blade guides if you want to further upgrade the tolerance.
Thanks for sharing the idea!
There's little doubt that this type of saw can solve many problems. A scroll saw just is not generally intense enough for thicker woods. This setup is well planned out and should handle the cuts you would normally use a bandsaw for. I would like to build this as I have an old electric Craftsman jigsaw. Thanks for the video! You are well suited for RUclips, great job!
Hi Tom, great little project! Looks like it might benefit from side bearings as well.
Thanks for sharing that idea! I was actually going to do that, but it limited my depth of cut, so I went with wooden blocks. Honestly, I'm glad I ended up going with the wooden blocks because they work very well, and are dead simple to make/setup/use. Anyway, I hope this helps!
Excellent presentation and skill. Very useful for amateur and home masters
Thank you!
.... thank YOU very much !!! a very nice work !!! kinde regards from Switzerland !!!!
Thank you so much!
I'm headed out to the shop now, to build one. Thanks for the inspiration.
Good luck with the project!
Thanks for directing me to a video where you use threaded wood holes and metal bolts! Definitely something to add to the tool bag, ;-)
As for this jig saw table, pretty neat. I don't believe I've seen this before. A couple random notes: you could add washers under the blade guide screws for more even clamping force and reduced likelihood of other problems. Some paste wax on your blade and the blade guides may help things run more smoothly, unless you happen to be able to get some lignum vitae which would be awesome for this application. Alternatively some hdpe or UHMW pe would work well too. You mention that it's pretty good at tight turns but your using a fairly wide blade with a large tooth pattern, a more narrow blade with more teeth meant for fine cutting should get you as tight a turn as you could hope for, I'd imagine. Fantastic tool and a great way to repurpose a "broken" jigsaw.
No problem! Thanks for the suggestions, and welcome to the channel!
All these diy how to guys have so many nice scraps of wood!
If you ask my girlfriend, she'd say I have a hoarding problem 😂
I won't ever build one of these but I admire your ingenuity.
Thank you for compliment - I appreciate it!
Thanks for your help. I’ve almost got mine finished. It even works very well without the arm.
Stan
Great!
Wow.. Very nice. This is a very good project and simple as well. Thanks for sharing
I’m glad you liked it!
Great idea well executed.
I think I'd like to have a cover on the end of the blade support arm to cover where the end of the blade where it would stab you if you got any flesh near it. I was surprised that you didn't mount the switch flush with the top instead of on the surface. There are narrower jigsaw blades that would be helpful for tighter turning radius.
Your hands are usually well below the rising blade for you to be stabbed from it, I guess if you feel you need that extra safety then go for it, but make it long enough to not hit the blade once you make adjustments when lowering!
I think this would work very will in my workshop and it looks very easy to make thanks again
Dear Tommy, I do miss my bandsaw but what you built is a very functional alternative. Thanks for sharing. A couple of flat washers beneath the heads of the side guide screws would protect the guides from cracking. Cheers.
Thank you for the feedback, and the suggestion!
Definitely stealing this idea! Subscribed.
3 Options:
1) Use a rechargable saw.
2) Use steel tubing with the wooden top.
3) Use all steel and a little bit of welding.
I'm thinking about Option 3 myself, but to each their own! 😊
Thank you for subscribing and welcome to the channel! Good luck with your build - be sure to come back and let us know how it goes!
Fabulous idea... I don't have a band saw and been struggling with a hand held jig saw... This makes things look sooo much easier... Thank you !!
Thank you, and no problem! If you decide to build it, good luck with the project!
Free hand jigsaws are fine if you don't feed them in to fast and hard to a work peace, you can getaway with better results inverting them into a table saw though!
Incredible Job!…Love it. Gonna try and make one for my small shop.
I've probably said this before, but you need more subs!! Your work (and in particular your explanation of the process) is awesome. Love your channel fella.....
Thanks, man! I appreciate the compliments!
Nice and simple is always the best well done
Really like the concept! I'll redesign it to use MDF and pine - plywood is too expensive where I live.
Thank you, and good luck with the project!
Very clever Tommy!
I have an old B&D jigsaw this would work perfectly for.
Thank you! Good luck if you decide to give it a go!
Nice work, Tommy! Looks like another project for me👍🏼 Thanks for your efforts. I had a scroll saw but didn't find it that useful so returned it for a bandsaw, which gets a hammering.This will be a very adequate replacement.
I have just finished a disc sander based on yours. All worked very well and it has repurposed a Makita corded drill that has gathered dust for years.
Cheers from Western Australia.
Michael, thank you so much for wonderful compliments, and thanks for buying plans/supporting my channel! I'm glad to know that the disc sander has been working well for you - it always makes me happy to hear when someone has completed a project. Thanks again, and good luck with your future projects!
Looks like a very cool jig. I have single jigsaw and no bandsaw, and I could definitely use one of these.
Thanks! It's not as good as a bandsaw because the blade goes 2 directions, but it's certainly better than no bandsaw at all!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Exactly my thoughts. I would like to have a bandsaw, but I really just don't have space in my garage (yet). I'm planning on building a small shop on a shed in my roof, where I will have space for that and more, but for now I could use some jig like this one.
I'll keep your design in mind; looks like it works fine.
Simple design and looks very functional. Well done.
Thank you very much!
That's impressive as hell my man, well done
You basically made an upside down (?) scroll saw. Great tool and video. I like that you show HOW you work and your creative process along the way ... really helps newer woodworkers. We almost don't need the plans ... yet u include them as well! Also, you get right to it ... no BS about your dog or what you did last weekend!
Two small suggestions: if u use the wooden guides with the screws use washers and maybe even countersink first. OR make the guides out of UHMW plastic (better option I think). Btw, if any newbie is thinking of just clamping his jigsaw upside-down into vise ... DON"T! It's okay for cutting thin stock (thin long dowel stock or thin square stock) but anything else is dangerous. I know because I "jackassedly" said "why not just strap the old jigsaw into the vise" etc. That's why I watch videos ... esp when making homemade tools.
Thank you, and thanks for sharing ideas and experience!
I like your design much better than my crude setup. I didn't re-inforce the outside of the table and got so much vibration, while attempting to cut a board, that I got a terrible blood blister from being pinched.
Thanks, Jim! And now, you have an idea for your next version - good luck!
Seems like it will vibrate a lot in the vice.
I’ve watched many videos on this topic and the only only guide designs that will last a long time are the builds with a bearing on each side and one in the back.
Tommy, you're a badass, I almost threw away my old corded jigsaw. Liked & subscribed bro!
Thank you for subscribing, and welcome to the channel!
I knew I was saving that old power jig saw for a reason. I am definitely making one of these, nice work.
Thank you, and good luck with the project!
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You shown very in detailed clean thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing this ... in the perfect moment. Im building a new shop atm and i have an old unused jigsaw.
Awesome! If you end up building one, good luck - let me know how it goes!
I'm going to build me one of those. Looks fantastic. Thanks.
Excellent job, video & English language! THANK U
Thank you!
Good idea. However, let me suggest that you used flat head screws in a lot of places where you should have used pan head. And put some washers under your blade guide screws. Also, using a scroll style jig saw blade will allow you to make better turns with less vibration.
Ed thank you for awesome suggestions!
Not trying to tell you what to do but experience says vibration is your enemy where counter sunk screws are concerned. I would expect the arm that holds the bearing will eventually work loose. Have a great day!
Very nice - and something I can implement at once for a current project!
Thank you, and good luck with your project!
Nice one! I like the single bearing concept 👏🇦🇺✌️
Dude you’re killing me with the music
Felicitaciones!!!😅
Está muy práctico su proyecto!!!
Excelente!!
Cordial saludo!!
Great project, Tommy! I've got 2 questions:
1. Why 6 coats of poly? Isn't it a bit of overkill for a shop project?
2. Wouldn't a couple of bearings be better for blade guides than wood? My point is overheating the blade from friction.
Thank you! I usually add 6 coats of poly when working with Baltic Birch plywood, because that's usually how many it takes to get good coverage (the plywood soaks it up like a sponge for the first few coats). Poly is easy to wipe down if get it dirty (like if you get some grease or oil on jigsaw table), but it only works if you have good coverage. If you don't have good coverage, the grease/oil will soak through to the wood, and your homemade shop tools start looking pretty rough. I like to have hard clear finishes (as opposed to paint) for shop projects, primarily because shop projects take a lot of abuse...I also dig the more natural look of the finish. I thought about using bearings for the side guides as well, but they would have reduced my depth of cut for this particular design. I think the wooden blocks will be fine it terms of heat build up. The blade is positioned so that it is close to each block, but not actually touching.So as you cut, the blade moves ever so slightly from block to block as you make changes in your cut path, and is never really applying consistent or hard friction to either block. In other words, the blocks aren't "pinching" the blade. Anyway thanks for the questions! I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbenchThank you so much for the answer, I really appreciate the attention to detail and the feedback on your channel, Tommy. I wish you nothing but success. Cheers!
No problem - I’m happy to help! Thank you for the good wishes, and same to you!
You don't need the any blade guides. The jigsaw blade is designed not to twist, and will not twist or deform if you work "kindly" with it... for example not trying to cut tight curves with a huge fat blade like this guy shows in this video.
Consider this: the jigsaw doesn't had any blade guides to begin with, yet works just fine... go figure!
Tommy, you made an awsome, well explained and useful video! Well done my friend!
Thank you!
Personally I'd mount the jigsaw perpendicular and further inboard toward the vice to further lower the vibration. Aside from that looks like a winner
Nice work on the jigsaw table Tommy! Thank you for sharing the video.👌👍😎JP
Thank you, JP!
Your very welcome Tommy! Have a great week!😎
Very well done, exceptionally useful with the removable guide arm........ One comment.....damn you must have a super fine scrap box...!!
Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed the project! And yes, I do keep ALL my scraps, and therefore have a nice collection. My girlfriend might argue that I have TOO NICE of a collection...or at least too large of one - lol 🤣 Plus, I've built a lot of tools from Baltic Birch plywood over the last year, so I've been accumulating those high quality scraps this whole time. I've also learned that when I go shopping for electrical switches, boxes, bolts, nuts, etc., to just buy extras of everything. Those plastic boxes and light switches are cheap (usually about $1 or less), so I just buy handfuls of them - saving a trip to the store is worth having extra hardware on hand. Actually though, I think the plywood used for this job was only about 40" x 26" worth. So if you were to build it from scratch, you'd need about $10 worth of plywood, $2-3 in electrical, $2 in hardware, and a few cents worth of hardwood. Let's say about $15 total. Anyway, thanks again! Now you gotta start working on building up your scrap box 😉
Will do the scrap box thing for sure. I already mounted a jigsaw under a small table which I use often, but will enlarge the work area and add the guide arm. I like how you've done yours and will copy it. Thanks again for sharing and tell your girlfriend that a woodworking hobby is about the best for a man....keeps one at home, but not in the house underfoot. My wife is not too bad with a hammer and saw either.
Good luck with adding the guide arm - let me know how t goes! And I was (mostly) joking about my girlfriend‘s commentary. She’s very supportive and has actually gotten into woodworking too. She has built several pieces of furniture (mostly tables) that have all turned out really great. I like to brag that I taught her everything she knows, but the reality is that she’s just a smart cookie and learning comes easy to her. Don’t tell her I said that though 😉
Okay man......great talking with you. Take care.
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Hello it's me again and the blade guide works perfectly..... I installed a smaller blade for much better (smaller) curves and circles. Anaco, Anz.
This is pretty awesome stuff. I need one of these and my first attempt at this was JANKY at best. I like this design and will likely tweak it a bit for my use case. Good work!
Thanks, Carl! Good luck with your next build!
Great idea. Much better than me just clamping a jigsaw upside down in a Workmate to cut a circle from plexi. It worked, but a lot of finishing work to get it "perfect".
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Really great way of doing it, going to make a few mods myself and use this!
Good luck with the project!
A very good effort, immensely helpful indeed
sehr gute Idee,da ich eine Kleine Werkstatt habe werde ich das Nachbauen wenn ich darf!
Cool idea. Id have scrounged up some pieces of delron for the blade guides.
Cheaper and more effective than the wood guide blocks, Use graphite brush blocks just like on a bandsaw (from an angle grinder spares or drilling machine or any other universal motor). Added bonus, graphite works like a lube for the blade and prevents wood burn.
Thanks for the tip!
Hi Tommy, You've done it again and built something that would cost a fortune to buy, for a few pounds (in the UK). Thanks for sharing. When are you going to make the plans available? I love the fact that your plans are available at a very reasonable cost as well. Cheers, Huw
Thanks, Huw! I'm glad to know that you are finding the videos & plans helpful! The plans for this project are already up. Here's a link: oneminuteworkbench.com/product/vise-mounted-jigsaw-table/ Thanks again, and good luck!
Love it. Try it with a sawzall with an adjustable height for different size and type blades. I might even try it when I get time . Thanks for sharing. Like your ideas.
Thank you! If you do build a sawzall version, please let me know how it goes!
I'd like to see that too!
Superb piece of work 👍👏
Thank you!
I'd suggest a guard or shield to prevent accidental exposure to the blade tip.
Thank you for the suggestion!
I have an older jig saw I might try this with, great idea!
If you do, good luck with the project!
very nice...clean and well thought out.
Thank you, Richard!
I like that you use real world tools. You aren't using the most expensive tools to get the same results. Like the cheapie Ryobi jig saw. You could make blade guilds from a dollar store cutting board. Have you cut 3/4 or 5/4 material yet ?
i am going to build something along same lines but use bearings as a blade guide aswell, nice and easy tool design though :)
Great job. Keep up the good work....
Thank you!
Thank you!
Great idea . I think I’ll give it ago my self when I get my new place ... until then I’ll save it .
Thank you, and good luck on the new place!
Cool little project! I bet u could get close to scroll saw cut radii going to an 1/8” shank blade. One thing: For Xmas I’m gonna have Santa bring you a proper set of driver bits so you can throw those little stubby PITA away - ditto for your 1/4” socket rig LOL.
Thank you! I'll be sure to check my stocking for those bits 😉
This is a good idea. My Bandsaw ( JET) working area is so small.
Good job. I was able to make one automatic that works on 12 volts.
Thanks, and congrats on your build!
Nice build
Thank you, Shawn!
Oh..so that's why mine doesn't cut curves. Good stuff, I should make a proper jigsaw table when I get back into woodworking.
I hope you get back into it soon - it's good for the soul!
Awesome jig saw.....thank you !!! Question in regards to the guide...some people use two bearings and have the blade in between....some people including yourself use the wood guide......should the blade touch the guide/bearings on both sides or just slightly off ???? Thank you again !!!!!!! cant wait to make one myself
Güzel çalışma.👏👌
Fakat kesim yaparken rahat dönemiyorsunuz. Bunun için testere bıçağını arka taraftan inceltirseniz rahat dönüş yapabilirsiniz. Testereyi arka taraftan % 50 keserek bunu yapa bilirsiniz.
I've used helicoil type thread inserts for putting metal threads in wood before, the kits come with an oversized tap you use in the same manner as you did here. I insert the thread insert with quick set 2 pack epoxy on them
Thanks for sharing about your method!
Rs Davies..... The inserts are good for sure, but if using Baltic plywood they aren't necessary because the density of the plywood is sufficient to take direct threading and holds up well to normal use. Anaco, Anz.
Don't use helicoils - those are for METAL. Use a thread insert designed for wood, which you can buy at any decent hardware outlet. They are often in the shelves where the accessories are for chipboard flatpack furniture, since it's the most reliable way to put a thread into MDF etc.
nice project and as usual, excellent video.
Thank you!
This is a very good job, and inspiring. I would like to build one but the base of my jog saw is not flat. Need to 💭 how to fit it..
Thank you, and good luck coming up with a solution!
I flattened it.. it should work, will have a go
Of course the base of your jigsaw is flat... you wouldn't be able to use it as a jigsaw if it didn't have a flat base LOL.
Very good and easy thanks
Thank you!
Might be a useful mod to turn the saw and guides through 90 degrees so that you can rip longer pieces.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I have an old jigsaw laying around, but I think I'd rather have the blade perpendicular to the way yours is set, leaves potential for ripping longer boards. top notch tho
Thank you, and thanks for the feedback about the blade guide arm. I thought about making it to where the arm could be moved to the side, or the back to accommodate any type of cut, but based on the type of comments I received from viewers who wanted this, it seemed like most of them had a table saw for making rips anyway. That said, if you build one, you could mount the arm on the side, or as I mentioned make it an option for the side or the back. Anyway, if you do tackle it, good luck!
Hey Tommy. Nice project and great video my friend. Keep up the good work. AK
AK, thank you very much!
I like the design with the blade guide base mounted vertically. Its adjustable and seems to control the tension better and helps eliminate vibration. Just from watching videos I havent built one. But what kind of bearings are these.
I was thinking about making it so that it could be used from the back or either side...maybe on a future build. The bearings are just standard skate bearings (also called 608 bearings). I hope this helps!
An Amazing idea, I even gave it a like, and I do really, really enjoy the idea has a whole!! BUT I do not own a band saw, nor do I own a workbench, and I certainly DO NOT have a bench vice!! And I am 54 years old who is also now disabled! My shop you might ask too, is tiny, only 8 foot by 8 foot big and then space is always a problem!!! It really bugs me I can't do more work as well, because of my medical problems but further not having basic tools like a band saw, drill press or a bench vice, really makes things hard for me as well too!!!
Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed the video! I'm sorry to hear that medical issues have slowed you down, but I hope you're able to find a way to continue getting into the shop and getting some time in with your hobby. Best of luck!
God bless you and your family brother from India