This was the initial set up and I wanted to see what it could do. Well there are some pros and cons for sure. I'll have more videos up about this system.
Your buddies did not know what was going on. There is no fuse, or battery disconnect, between the batteries and the inverter. You don't have any bus bars set up, so if you want to add additional 24v batteries in the future, there's no easy way to do that. The scariest thing is you have the inverter mounted directly to a flammable surface. You're supposed to set the battery type at "USER", or something similar, then choose your charge/discharge thresholds. That's in the owner's manual. Temporary setups have a way of ending up permanent...until they catch on fire and burn it all to the ground. Don't get impatient and do stuff wrong. Wait until you have everything the system needs to be set up right. Read the owners manual...several times, if need be. It's in there.
Add a steel wrench sitting on top of a battery and boom, shorted battery. That said, I have one of these inverters and it didn't work either. It is all but DOA. It inverts on very low demand, for a few minutes and then shuts off. It is not reading all the available power from my panels, so ... I am not in a position to recommend this brand!
@@impulsesystems I have the worst habit of putting my tools on batteries. My main problem with it at this point is charging. Still haven't gotten it up to 100%.
The "lithium" setting in the unit is if you have one of their "supported" batteries that communicate with the inverter. If it does not see the communication it thinks the battery is disconnected. Set for "user" defined and program in the battery requirements that you got from the battery manufacturer. Some best practices: 1. Mount everything to a backer board that is fireproof (concrete board is a good choice) 2. Use busbars and connect everything to the busbars. I prefer to use ferrules on the cable ends when going to screw terminals. 3. Connect each battery using DC rated breakers to the busbar independently. (mini breakers on a din rail) Use a factor of 1.25 for fuse/breaker rating and cable size. (stranded welding cable is a good choice.) This will spread the amp draw across the batteries and the cables. 4. Put a breaker between the unit and the busbar. Use one rated for max possible amp draw of the inverter. (x1.25) 5. Breaker between each solar string and the input to the unit. (seeing a trend?) that way you can cutoff each string for maint and troubleshooting. Once the system is up and running , go back with a temp gun and check each connection. Loose or poor connections show up as increased heat and produce fires. Take a look at diysolarforum.com/ there are a lot of very knowledge people willing to help and some great resources. Welcome to the solar rabbit hole....😁
Also: Sungold is compatible with soltaro, Weco and Pylontech BMS's Mine won't communicate in lithium setting so I'm in user defined where I can modify the settings to my preference...
youtube randomly threw this at me so I'll add my two cents worth of comments. Read the manual, and understand it. If that's beyond your current skill levels probably best to not play with this sort of stuff. The manuals usually aren't written from an amateur's point of view either. They usually expect the reader is familiar enough with electrical to understand what is being said. The lithium presets will all be configured to expect communications with a smart BMS. Since you have standalone standard type batteries you should use the user configured option and set charging amps, and target voltages to suit. Be kind to your batteries. They might accommodate, say, 100A max charging but if you charge at 25A you'll get more life out of them. There we go, in the manual config option 32 and 33 tell the unit if it should be trying to talk to a smart BMS. Personally I'd set the inverter up with user type battery and configure it all sensibly since God only knows what the L07, L08 and L09 configurations actually are. L08 seems targetted at 24V LiFePO4 but best to set values that you like to run your batteries at rather than accept presets. Usually can't rely on the preset figures in the manuals with this Chinese stuff since they tend to screw around with things unexpectedly when they change the firmware. The manual doesn't even discuss things such as what is and isn't isolated, ie is there isolation between the PV and AC output? Lots of these hybrids are non-isolated designs and that means the PV inputs can still be lethal even without any solar panels attached. Even the battery terminals can be a hazard in relation to the AC output. This stuff can all be quite lethal if you get it wrong so please take care.
I really appreciate the feedback. It's taken a month to finally get everything in and somewhat figured out. I was impatient and didn't go slow as I should have. Trying to get someone to help was a long process as well.
I have the 24v/6k unit...it has 2 settings for lipo and lithium batteries.....and a plastic piece in the back of the manual..? .haven't hooked my unit up yet
Your buddies did not know what was going on. There is no fuse, or battery disconnect, between the batteries and the inverter. You don't have any bus bars set up, so if you want to add additional 24v batteries in the future, there's no easy way to do that. The scariest thing is you have the inverter mounted directly to a flammable surface. You're supposed to set the battery type at "USER", or something similar, then choose your charge/discharge thresholds. That's in the owner's manual.
Temporary setups have a way of ending up permanent...until they catch on fire and burn it all to the ground. Don't get impatient and do stuff wrong. Wait until you have everything the system needs to be set up right. Read the owners manual...several times, if need be. It's in there.
Agreed. I'm still learning and any advice I can get will help. I do plan on adding in those things you mentioned. Thanks for the help.
Add a steel wrench sitting on top of a battery and boom, shorted battery.
That said, I have one of these inverters and it didn't work either. It is all but DOA. It inverts on very low demand, for a few minutes and then shuts off. It is not reading all the available power from my panels, so ... I am not in a position to recommend this brand!
@@impulsesystems I have the worst habit of putting my tools on batteries. My main problem with it at this point is charging. Still haven't gotten it up to 100%.
The "lithium" setting in the unit is if you have one of their "supported" batteries that communicate with the inverter. If it does not see the communication it thinks the battery is disconnected. Set for "user" defined and program in the battery requirements that you got from the battery manufacturer. Some best practices: 1. Mount everything to a backer board that is fireproof (concrete board is a good choice) 2. Use busbars and connect everything to the busbars. I prefer to use ferrules on the cable ends when going to screw terminals. 3. Connect each battery using DC rated breakers to the busbar independently. (mini breakers on a din rail) Use a factor of 1.25 for fuse/breaker rating and cable size. (stranded welding cable is a good choice.) This will spread the amp draw across the batteries and the cables. 4. Put a breaker between the unit and the busbar. Use one rated for max possible amp draw of the inverter. (x1.25) 5. Breaker between each solar string and the input to the unit. (seeing a trend?) that way you can cutoff each string for maint and troubleshooting. Once the system is up and running , go back with a temp gun and check each connection. Loose or poor connections show up as increased heat and produce fires. Take a look at diysolarforum.com/ there are a lot of very knowledge people willing to help and some great resources. Welcome to the solar rabbit hole....😁
Also: Sungold is compatible with soltaro, Weco and Pylontech BMS's
Mine won't communicate in lithium setting so I'm in user defined where I can modify the settings to my preference...
Hey thanks for the help. Any bit helps me big time!
Nice tour of your system :) You'll get it figured out.
youtube randomly threw this at me so I'll add my two cents worth of comments. Read the manual, and understand it. If that's beyond your current skill levels probably best to not play with this sort of stuff. The manuals usually aren't written from an amateur's point of view either. They usually expect the reader is familiar enough with electrical to understand what is being said.
The lithium presets will all be configured to expect communications with a smart BMS. Since you have standalone standard type batteries you should use the user configured option and set charging amps, and target voltages to suit. Be kind to your batteries. They might accommodate, say, 100A max charging but if you charge at 25A you'll get more life out of them.
There we go, in the manual config option 32 and 33 tell the unit if it should be trying to talk to a smart BMS. Personally I'd set the inverter up with user type battery and configure it all sensibly since God only knows what the L07, L08 and L09 configurations actually are. L08 seems targetted at 24V LiFePO4 but best to set values that you like to run your batteries at rather than accept presets. Usually can't rely on the preset figures in the manuals with this Chinese stuff since they tend to screw around with things unexpectedly when they change the firmware.
The manual doesn't even discuss things such as what is and isn't isolated, ie is there isolation between the PV and AC output? Lots of these hybrids are non-isolated designs and that means the PV inputs can still be lethal even without any solar panels attached. Even the battery terminals can be a hazard in relation to the AC output.
This stuff can all be quite lethal if you get it wrong so please take care.
I really appreciate the feedback. It's taken a month to finally get everything in and somewhat figured out. I was impatient and didn't go slow as I should have. Trying to get someone to help was a long process as well.
I just picked up the sp6548.
There should be user mode. For LIFoe you will a sever type battery that has a communication port to connect to the invertor
I have the 24v/6k unit...it has 2 settings for lipo and lithium batteries.....and a plastic piece in the back of the manual..?
.haven't hooked my unit up yet
I finally figured out the parameters for this unit. I just uploaded that video. Hopefully it'll help
These are ok units but the mpp units are a little more beginner friendly.
I'm so new to this. I wanted the most simple kit I could find. I'm finding there are easier ones. Thanks for sharing