Correct, otherwise dirt and pieces of coating will pile up at the face of the cleaved fiber due to the wiping action, leading to transmission and reliability issues. It's less of an issue if the connector has the fiber going through all the way and you do clean the connector's face a final step, however if it's a rapid style connector with pre-polished fiber inside, you essentially seal all the dirt inside the connector between the two fiber strands.
@@jeffteng2343 It's actually entirely wrong for another two reasons. On top of what others have said about dirty fiber causing the cleaver to cleave improperly, the cleanest that glass will ever be is after cleaving it. Cleaning a fresh cleave makes it worse.
The second coding is NOT cladding it’s the 260 micron primary buffer coating, the core glass and the cladding glass are something you never strip mostly because it’s not possible.
The cladding and core are necessary components for the fiber optic to work as intended. Light is a wave, and the fiber optic acts as a transmission line, not unlike a waveguide that is used for radio and RF. Actually technically the fiber could work without cladding as air provides the same transmission line discontinuity as the cladding does (causing internal reflection) but it would be too thin to handle.
In order to know it's going to work you need a fiber light passing through... Fiber is not easy to terminate due to the fact that terminating like this doesn't work unless you have years of experience and don't need a fiber light on the other end to ensure the light is passing through.
A quick test with a fiber power meter should work. If you're concerned about the splices and the terminator you can run a full OTDR test to confirm power and losses at each splice point back to the cabinet. Fiber termination is much more reliable than in previous decades.
WHAT THE HELL!!!!! Do any of you know how many connectors I went through and cramps I gave myself smoothing the fiber end down to get a good connector before this???? I've been an engineering tech for a long time doing electronics and I swear this tool is beautiful, also if I hear any of you talking about how hard it is now and you have this tool I'm going to talk about you hard. Aaaaaaa!!!!
I'm brand new to this! done copper for years and years. There seems to be very little information easy to find for beginners. When do you have to use glue/epoxy in the connectors? and when do you need to polish the ends? Are people just being lazy and not doing it witch cheap connectors and cheap cleavers? Or is this more something you have to worry about with multimode and long distances and worrying more about losses? Whereas with multimode/local stuff people just are not worrying about this?
Has nothing to do with if it’s multi mode or single. The glue and polishing is for anaerobic type connectors, these are quick connectors. Quick connectors, aka unicams, already come from the factory with an index matching gel inside the connector so all you need to do is put your clean fiber inside and you’re good to go.
I am kinda in the same boat, I have a lot of networking background, I look after a plethora of switches, routers, etc etc. I have crimped 1000s of rj45 connectors in my life but have yet to crimp a fibre lead. I am currently working at a company that use a mix of LC, SC and ST connectors which I need to make sure if they are ever damaged they can be repaired in house. The fibre paired are used to connect various buildings on quite a large site. So need to find good guides like this, luckily I have lots of test equipment to play around with to get some skills just incase I ever have to do it for real.
@@MrAbdullah773 You want all the cladding off before trying to cleave. If there is cladding on the cleaver won't cleave properly. So it either won't cut or it will leave a crappy edge that will give high light loss.
@@MrAbdullah773 He is right! The fiber needs to be clean before the cleaving. Cleaning after the cleaving will just damage the cleaved front end of the fiber. Try putting the fiber into a splicer to see the cleaved end and you will know what I mean
No disagreement in essence, just adding for the sake of clarity for beginners passing by that you generally can't strip all of the 900um buffer at once without breaking the fiber, so it is common practice to strip it in small sections. Fully agree with a single strip to remove the inner buffer coating so as not to risk any undue effects to the cladding. If the fiber will tolerate it, I do try to make my last section of 900um stripping longer than the cleave length of the fiber so that the cleave isn't near a spot the stripper jaws closed around. Gives me more consistent results. And be sure to properly dispose of your glass!
Oh boy.... Do you have any friends??? Not horrible... Real world... Not all of us have all day to make everything "just so".... I have never had a termination fail so it can't be all that bad...
Major wrong step: The cleaning needs to be done after stripping the fiber and before the cleaving
You surprised me with cleaning the fiber after cleaver.
@@rondog699 Never had that problem.... I was taught to "clean then cleave" so the tip is virgin glass..
YES that really bugged me, always clean your fiber before you cleave 🤦🏻♂️
Correct, otherwise dirt and pieces of coating will pile up at the face of the cleaved fiber due to the wiping action, leading to transmission and reliability issues. It's less of an issue if the connector has the fiber going through all the way and you do clean the connector's face a final step, however if it's a rapid style connector with pre-polished fiber inside, you essentially seal all the dirt inside the connector between the two fiber strands.
@@jeffteng2343 It's actually entirely wrong for another two reasons. On top of what others have said about dirty fiber causing the cleaver to cleave improperly, the cleanest that glass will ever be is after cleaving it. Cleaning a fresh cleave makes it worse.
The music has me vibin
This video makes it look super easy. Thanks for the video, do you have a link to this kit?
The second coding is NOT cladding it’s the 260 micron primary buffer coating, the core glass and the cladding glass are something you never strip mostly because it’s not possible.
7ullllllqmn b
Mostly
ruclips.net/video/ZI_WZoYckRk/видео.html --- FIBRE ELEC sarl
This is what I was looking about and asked many no one answered me right , does cladding remove or no or the last layer we remove it is couting
The cladding and core are necessary components for the fiber optic to work as intended. Light is a wave, and the fiber optic acts as a transmission line, not unlike a waveguide that is used for radio and RF. Actually technically the fiber could work without cladding as air provides the same transmission line discontinuity as the cladding does (causing internal reflection) but it would be too thin to handle.
thanks for sharing your professional skill.❤
this is the very best way of terminations, many thanks
what is the name of this kit and where to buy this?
In order to know it's going to work you need a fiber light passing through... Fiber is not easy to terminate due to the fact that terminating like this doesn't work unless you have years of experience and don't need a fiber light on the other end to ensure the light is passing through.
A quick test with a fiber power meter should work. If you're concerned about the splices and the terminator you can run a full OTDR test to confirm power and losses at each splice point back to the cabinet. Fiber termination is much more reliable than in previous decades.
thanks mate where in brisbane can i buy a mechaniclal splice please
Whooooa. You cleaned after the cleave. 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Thank you for this video. What’s the name of the tool that you’re removing at 4:45?
They are typically called electricians shears or Kevlar shears.
Awesome video, quick question, where did you get the neo pro fiber stripping gauge? I would like to get one. Thanks
Walmart
Thanks@@TLllllll
@@themessenjur7140 it was just a joke. You’d probably have to order from granger
WHAT THE HELL!!!!! Do any of you know how many connectors I went through and cramps I gave myself smoothing the fiber end down to get a good connector before this???? I've been an engineering tech for a long time doing electronics and I swear this tool is beautiful, also if I hear any of you talking about how hard it is now and you have this tool I'm going to talk about you hard. Aaaaaaa!!!!
I'm brand new to this! done copper for years and years.
There seems to be very little information easy to find for beginners.
When do you have to use glue/epoxy in the connectors? and when do you need to polish the ends?
Are people just being lazy and not doing it witch cheap connectors and cheap cleavers?
Or is this more something you have to worry about with multimode and long distances and worrying more about losses?
Whereas with multimode/local stuff people just are not worrying about this?
These are mechanical connectors that are already polished. No need for glue or polishing.
Has nothing to do with if it’s multi mode or single. The glue and polishing is for anaerobic type connectors, these are quick connectors. Quick connectors, aka unicams, already come from the factory with an index matching gel inside the connector so all you need to do is put your clean fiber inside and you’re good to go.
I am kinda in the same boat, I have a lot of networking background, I look after a plethora of switches, routers, etc etc. I have crimped 1000s of rj45 connectors in my life but have yet to crimp a fibre lead. I am currently working at a company that use a mix of LC, SC and ST connectors which I need to make sure if they are ever damaged they can be repaired in house. The fibre paired are used to connect various buildings on quite a large site. So need to find good guides like this, luckily I have lots of test equipment to play around with to get some skills just incase I ever have to do it for real.
ruclips.net/video/ZI_WZoYckRk/видео.html --- FIBRE ELEC sarl
Good lecture
Should’ve cleaned after the cladding not the cleave.
Cleaning after cleaver??!!!it will damage end of the fiber
@@MrAbdullah773 You want all the cladding off before trying to cleave. If there is cladding on the cleaver won't cleave properly. So it either won't cut or it will leave a crappy edge that will give high light loss.
@@MrAbdullah773 He is right! The fiber needs to be clean before the cleaving. Cleaning after the cleaving will just damage the cleaved front end of the fiber. Try putting the fiber into a splicer to see the cleaved end and you will know what I mean
Yes, i am working in Germany, first cleaning and than cutting
set သုံးတာ types မရွေးပါနှင့် law အရရွေး ကျန်တာမရွေးပါနှင့်
I'm not sure why it was stripped so far. Most of that gets cleaved off.
I would like to go to a school to learn how to do this to complete my low voltage exp. Any help?
Bicsi certification is a good one
Instructions not clear, got soldering iron stuck in the cleaver tool.
super
Clean before you cleave , nothing is cleaner than freshly cleaved glass IMHO
Is this music from a 70's porn movie?
thanks
can om3 connection be used on om4.
Yes
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ကိုယ်တိုင် sets. builder. ဖြစ်အောင်လုပ် ပုံစံတူ လုပ်ခြင်း သင်ယူခြင်း ပေါင်း စပ်ညှိနှိုင်းခြင်း စနစ် များ ပါ
😍😍
တည်နေရာတစ်ခုတည်းနဲ့ ဆက်သွယ်မှုစနစ် မဖြစ်သလို ခေတ်အလျောက် လုံခြုံမှု ရှိသလို 😎😎
Nice music.
You made the process so easy but you forgot to mention wearing a safety glass.
ذا شفي لي Ligma🤣🤣🤣
Very slow
today, every finished cable is cheaper than making it yourself
100% ... !
That's true just if you're doing simple stuff
Spit works just as good as the alcohol made over a thousand splices over the years with no issues
COVID fiber
HardManbow lmaooo
Cool it Joey... We ain't talkin about that tip..
Dead ass. Same here. Wipe that shit with my finger and it works just fine.
it doesan hett kladding
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Came here to learn. Got shity music instead
Never angle the strippers, never run the strippers more than once, you clean after stripping not before. Horrible example...
No disagreement in essence, just adding for the sake of clarity for beginners passing by that you generally can't strip all of the 900um buffer at once without breaking the fiber, so it is common practice to strip it in small sections. Fully agree with a single strip to remove the inner buffer coating so as not to risk any undue effects to the cladding. If the fiber will tolerate it, I do try to make my last section of 900um stripping longer than the cleave length of the fiber so that the cleave isn't near a spot the stripper jaws closed around. Gives me more consistent results. And be sure to properly dispose of your glass!
Oh boy.... Do you have any friends??? Not horrible... Real world... Not all of us have all day to make everything "just so".... I have never had a termination fail so it can't be all that bad...
@@OldSkoolF what do you use to certify your work?
@@justinspeer8481 Currently an Owl 7... I was using a Duo... Hate to say it but I like the Owl.... LOL
Auto
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In 5 min I was 7 terminate
and half don't certify...
Such a waste of time. Try fujikura nowadays.