Be sure to vist my website at www.blackwatercyclist.com Subscribe: ruclips.net/user/blackwatercyclist Follow me on: Instagram: instagram.com/blackwatercyclist Facebook: facebook.com/BlackWaterCyclist1 Strava: www.strava.com/athletes/179615
This was very informative, I work at an LBS so I get to ride a lot of different bikes and not only does it improve comfort but it also opens you up to different frame materials, it used to their was an argument that carbon was the best why to go but with larger tires I try to steer them towards getting bikes with aluminum or steel frames with better drivetrains and components, I have an aluminum frame and the redshift stem and a better saddle and I couldn’t be happier.
Hi Jason, thanks for watching man. Yeah I agree completely. I ride a Contend AR alloy frame and honestly it feels as good as many super high end bikes I've tried before. With good tires on the Contend and that D fuse seatpost it feels amazing.
Great video. I must also mention SQLAB saddles. Their “Active” model rocks side to side in the rear with adjustable elastomers. Helped my lower back so much I exclusively run them on every bike for 4-5yrs now.
Thanks Kim! I have heard of that brand but never heard of that model so I appreciate it! I will definitely look into it and my try a review in the future.
I put gel padded gloves, 120 TPI soft compound tyres (I went from 40c to 33c!) Air cushioned fabric saddle (I think it is one of a kind) and WOW it is a pleasure now! Sometimes you just have to lift your but, that is all. I ride in eastern Europe gravel roads are far from perfect there.
Those are some great ideas. I have not actually tried the Air Cushioned Fabric saddle but I have seen them before. I actually use non tubeless tires for gravel because they have higher TPI count and lower weight and they are more supple. I feel like I am riding on a cloud.
What a great video..... Bigger tyres and lower pressures is a must even with me only weighing 60kg. I never got on with a double layer of bar tape as it was just too big, so I opt for the soft hand approach as in early '90's MTBing on rigid bikes....don't grip too hard. I do like the idea of the Redhift stem though but quite expensive in the UK. Suspension seatposts....great idea and I did run a USE one back in the mid '90's on a hardtail Kona MTB..... As for the Icelandic Lauf forks.....just wow !! And as for the Niner full susser (good Clint Gibbs review on this beast) !!!
Thanks man! Another product I missed was the PNW Costal dropper post that also has 40mm of travel. I actually have one on the way to test on my hardtail.
I;ve heard the new Wolftooth supple tape, which is 5mm thick is very good. Also, the PNW Coast seatpost seems great too as it's a air suspension seat post & dropper seatpost, a 2in1. You also missed the MRP fork, which comes standard on the Bombtrack Hook ADV gravel bike standard. It's a pricier fork as it's hand assembled, but suppose to be nice.
The PNW Coast post is excellent for chunkier gravel or singletrack. It tends to work best on constant medium sized bumps. There is a bit of static friction which means a bump needs to be big enough to get the post moving. I find it best on my hardtail but if you get the pressure just right it is pretty good on a gravel bike. Also, it's a dropper so you can rail berms and hit drops. Rowdy!
I can vouch for both the Redshift Sports stem and seatpost. They really take the buzz out of things and will allow you to go farther with less fatigue. I don't find that either bobs when I'm riding hard. I've ridden the Kinect on an old hardtail MTB that I used as my first gravel bike and it is nice as well, but the RS seatpost is superior and lighter. The Lauf, although I've not ridden one, is stiffer, so it won't bob in the same way a conventional fork does so there isn't need for a lockout. Lastly I believe Cirrus has a suspension stem coming out soon- www.kickstarter.com/projects/kinekt/kinekt-suspension-stem-smooth-out-every-ride?ref=832oxp
That is awesome that they work so well. I would love to try them soon to do a proper review. In my opinion they look the best out of all the offerings. Yeah and honestly with the Lauf, its travel is so small as well it probably wouldn't be an issue with no lockout. I did see that stem from Cirrus but didn't include it because it was still on Kickstarter but I don't think they will have an issue bringing it to production.
@@BlackWaterCyclist Honestly I was super surprised how well the RS seatpost felt. It was weird at first because it felt like I was floating... hard to describe, but as I rode it felt better and better. It takes the buzz out the small stuff and saved my back. The big stuff you clearly still feel. I think the post is worth the weight penalty over a long day. The same for the stem. It takes time for the elastomers to seat themselves and loosen up a bit, but once they do the stem gets stable while taking care of the gravel buzz. Its worth playing with different elastomers around their recommended weights dial the stem in just right. As for Cirrus, they are great people and the seat post is nice, but i worry about rebound and weight with the new stem. I am sure it will work though. Cheers.
Another RUclips channel recommended a 30 degree flared-out drop h/bar. I have an Origin 8 Gary h/bar but actually haven't tried it out on a gravel bike yet.
Great product there! I don't think they had that available when I made the video so that will definitely have to be in version 2. Thanks for the input!
So sorry for the delay on this. I was camping with the family. It is similar to the Defy in terms of geometry. The major limiter on the Defy is tire clearance. Giant says the Defy can clear 35mm tires and that is the limit. While the Contend AR can clear up to 42mm tires though they claim it can only clear 38mm. If you are just riding light gravel and primarily road, the Defy would be the way to go but you will have limited tire clearance for mud and rocks in the Defy.
Hi Trevor, great feedback man! First off I actually hate when channels do a channel intro in every single one of their videos and ask for subs during that intro. I feel like it is a waste of time. I decided pretty quickly I did not want to do that, even though all the RUclips experts tell you to ask for subs in every video. I liked just flashing up the text asking for subs instead of setting aside time in the video to present the channel and ask for subs. In this particular video, I accidentally ran the Text asking for subs twice instead of my usual once so that was an editing mistake on my part. At the end of the video I will ask just because only 20% of viewers get to the end of videos so figured if you listened to me ramble on that long, you may want to subscribe :). I agree, the content is what will sell the channel, not the begging of subs. I appreciate your feedback, as you can tell I just started doing this about 4 months back so I am learning. Ride on man!
Trevor, dang you are right! I had that slide up 3 times! I should have caught that in editing. I think I can edit out a couple now so I appreciate it man.
Or you could buy a mtb. Wasn't mentioned but the single best thing you could do for comfort, get a good gravel centred bike fit. This will allow the rider to be more confident and relaxed and enable their body to soak the rough road surface without tiring. And you're not adding weight or costing significant money.
Great input, that is exactly right to get a better position. As far as mtb on gravel, I did a video on that as well: ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html
@@BlackWaterCyclist you're doing great. So people with limited bike options, can upgrade bikes they own to suit one or another track conditions, instead of buying a whole new bike ya. Thanks for the tips 👍🏼
The Rolling Resistance test with a drum is highly flawed and does not represent what happens on a flat surface. Also, lower rolling resistance must be offset by the increased watts needed to spin a heavier wheel due to heavier tires.
Hi Jay Tee, thanks for the input. Yeah I am more focused on the comfort of the ride than the pure rolling resistance but it has been proven that for the most part, wider tires roll faster at lower pressures, not just in this test but several other tests out there. Thanks for watching.
@@BlackWaterCyclist I don't doubt that wider tires roll faster. I've been riding for more than 24 years. I'm just saying that very few people are balancing the improved feel with the energy costs. Anyways, here is an interesting article from supple-tire pusher Jan Heine. www.renehersecycles.com/testing-tires-isnt-easy/
Great point! Some people debate about that but if it puts you in a more relaxed position for your hands and you can still control the bike, its perfect!
@@BlackWaterCyclist it's more than that, on long trips, the bars give you a position where your hands and arms aren't under pressure, your hips are tilted, so your butt is on a different pressure point, resulting in a less sore behind and less tired arms and hands. You can really hide a bit from a headwind, it's a much faster position, you can put it on most any bike. A mountainbike can be made much more comfortable for long days (bye bye drop bar conversion which are expensive, time consuming, takes away from actual mountainbike capabilities) So yeah, aero bars are awesome.
@@ChasHoff only a few tips. Don't get the bars that are almost completely straight, the way most tt-bikes have them. Look for bars with a comfortable hand/wrist position. They will end in a more vertical grip. Bars that have a lot of options to adjust are better Make sure your handlebars can accommodate aero clip ons. Carbon handlebars especially. If your alu bars have an inch or so next to the stem before tapering off, it's probably fine. If you have a retro bike or want to put the bars very wide, you'll need to use metal shimms to adjust the diameter. It's a slight hassle, but can be done. There are a few different types of aero bars. Over the handlebars, underneath them, different heights,... I look for comfort over absolute aerodynamics. Also consider looks. I don't like bars that are extremely offset, hovering far above the handlebars. You also don't have to spend a fortune. Cheap or budget bars do the same as expensive ones. Maybe have a look at the set ups used in ultra cycling or long distance gravel races like the tour divide etc
My Doctor advised against water bottles on MTB and Gravel bikes because of the dirt and germs that get on them.He states Camelback is always safer and water is cleaner
That's actually a great point! I have heard of XC racers getting bad stomach bugs and issues from drinking from water bottles that were splashed with mud. Summer time, I will take my chances with the stomach bug, its kinda hot out for a camelback but in the winter, I would be game.
Camelback makes a mud cap for their bottles now. It's a silicone cover that covers the mouthpiece, and it goes on and off very quick and easy with just your thumb. They also have bottles that come with those caps installed.
All of the information you've provided is easily available on each company's web site (a.k.a. "advertising"). The question you were supposed to answer is, "Do they work?".
Hi Stephen, sorry you were disappointed in the video. This was meant to inform riders of products they could use to add comfort to their gravel bikes, not as a review of products. If it were a review, then yes I would have been answering the question you mentioned. RUclips is one of the largest search engines in the world and I am just putting all these items in an 8 minute video instead of someone having to search individually online. Have a good one and ride on man.
Hi Clint, you are exactly right when it comes to the suspension. I actually did a video on setting up your MTB for gravel. ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html For those who do not mountain bike at all, I could see them being more interested in the Niner and the Fox fork. Thanks for watching.
That is exactly right. Most people will gain some comfort by conditioning their bodies by riding more but some gravel can be very rough, especially on longer distances. I did a video on setting up your MTB for gravel as well. ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html
Well if you want ultimate cush, then yes get suspension. I have thought about playing around with an old 26 inch full suspension MTB and make it into one of these newer full suspension gravel bikes.
Be sure to vist my website at www.blackwatercyclist.com
Subscribe: ruclips.net/user/blackwatercyclist
Follow me on:
Instagram: instagram.com/blackwatercyclist
Facebook: facebook.com/BlackWaterCyclist1
Strava: www.strava.com/athletes/179615
This was very informative, I work at an LBS so I get to ride a lot of different bikes and not only does it improve comfort but it also opens you up to different frame materials, it used to their was an argument that carbon was the best why to go but with larger tires I try to steer them towards getting bikes with aluminum or steel frames with better drivetrains and components, I have an aluminum frame and the redshift stem and a better saddle and I couldn’t be happier.
Hi Jason, thanks for watching man. Yeah I agree completely. I ride a Contend AR alloy frame and honestly it feels as good as many super high end bikes I've tried before. With good tires on the Contend and that D fuse seatpost it feels amazing.
Time to bring out my old full suspension mtb!
Lol yep! I've thought about doing a fun full suspension gravel bike project with an old full suspension 26 inch bike.
I absolutely love my red shift shock stop stem! Excellent product.
I have actually yet to test one but hope to in the future. They are one of the best looking suspension stems out there.
Just purchased another for my GT grade 80mm $112 black Friday sale
Have you used the seatpost @@lakishaweaks9784
Great video. I must also mention SQLAB saddles. Their “Active” model rocks side to side in the rear with adjustable elastomers. Helped my lower back so much I exclusively run them on every bike for 4-5yrs now.
Thanks Kim! I have heard of that brand but never heard of that model so I appreciate it! I will definitely look into it and my try a review in the future.
I use an inexpensive suntour seatpost damper. It is heavy but works well.
That's a great idea as well! I'll have to add that to my budget comfort tips video I plan to do soon.
I put gel padded gloves, 120 TPI soft compound tyres (I went from 40c to 33c!) Air cushioned fabric saddle (I think it is one of a kind) and WOW it is a pleasure now! Sometimes you just have to lift your but, that is all. I ride in eastern Europe gravel roads are far from perfect there.
Those are some great ideas. I have not actually tried the Air Cushioned Fabric saddle but I have seen them before. I actually use non tubeless tires for gravel because they have higher TPI count and lower weight and they are more supple. I feel like I am riding on a cloud.
What a great video.....
Bigger tyres and lower pressures is a must even with me only weighing 60kg. I never got on with a double layer of bar tape as it was just too big, so I opt for the soft hand approach as in early '90's MTBing on rigid bikes....don't grip too hard.
I do like the idea of the Redhift stem though but quite expensive in the UK. Suspension seatposts....great idea and I did run a USE one back in the mid '90's on a hardtail Kona MTB.....
As for the Icelandic Lauf forks.....just wow !! And as for the Niner full susser (good Clint Gibbs review on this beast) !!!
Thanks man! Another product I missed was the PNW Costal dropper post that also has 40mm of travel. I actually have one on the way to test on my hardtail.
I;ve heard the new Wolftooth supple tape, which is 5mm thick is very good. Also, the PNW Coast seatpost seems great too as it's a air suspension seat post & dropper seatpost, a 2in1. You also missed the MRP fork, which comes standard on the Bombtrack Hook ADV gravel bike standard. It's a pricier fork as it's hand assembled, but suppose to be nice.
Thank you Mellissa for the other products I missed. That PNW Coast seatpost looks great! MRP fork looks like a great competitor to the Fox.
The PNW Coast post is excellent for chunkier gravel or singletrack. It tends to work best on constant medium sized bumps. There is a bit of static friction which means a bump needs to be big enough to get the post moving. I find it best on my hardtail but if you get the pressure just right it is pretty good on a gravel bike. Also, it's a dropper so you can rail berms and hit drops. Rowdy!
Cool content! I did subscribe. Keep The good stuff flow :)
Thanks for subbing! I appreciate it. I plan to create many great videos in the future for you guys.
Great video, wow I was not aware of all these things that you can do. really cool!
Thanks for watching, it is nice to be able to change the set up of your bike with a few extra components.
I can vouch for both the Redshift Sports stem and seatpost. They really take the buzz out of things and will allow you to go farther with less fatigue. I don't find that either bobs when I'm riding hard. I've ridden the Kinect on an old hardtail MTB that I used as my first gravel bike and it is nice as well, but the RS seatpost is superior and lighter. The Lauf, although I've not ridden one, is stiffer, so it won't bob in the same way a conventional fork does so there isn't need for a lockout. Lastly I believe Cirrus has a suspension stem coming out soon- www.kickstarter.com/projects/kinekt/kinekt-suspension-stem-smooth-out-every-ride?ref=832oxp
That is awesome that they work so well. I would love to try them soon to do a proper review. In my opinion they look the best out of all the offerings. Yeah and honestly with the Lauf, its travel is so small as well it probably wouldn't be an issue with no lockout. I did see that stem from Cirrus but didn't include it because it was still on Kickstarter but I don't think they will have an issue bringing it to production.
@@BlackWaterCyclist Honestly I was super surprised how well the RS seatpost felt. It was weird at first because it felt like I was floating... hard to describe, but as I rode it felt better and better. It takes the buzz out the small stuff and saved my back. The big stuff you clearly still feel. I think the post is worth the weight penalty over a long day. The same for the stem. It takes time for the elastomers to seat themselves and loosen up a bit, but once they do the stem gets stable while taking care of the gravel buzz. Its worth playing with different elastomers around their recommended weights dial the stem in just right. As for Cirrus, they are great people and the seat post is nice, but i worry about rebound and weight with the new stem. I am sure it will work though. Cheers.
Your feedback is invaluable and I appreciate you sharing. Sounds like a magic carpet! I'll have to do a proper review on it in the future.
I'm using WTB Riddler tires, they are awesome.
I have not tried those yet. What size are you running?
700x37c
Great video!
The pool noodle was the best tip 😂
Haha! Thanks Landon! My kids were afraid I was about to start chopping it up to wrap it on my bars. 🤣
Great info Thanks Surely extra weight will be better for strength in the long run?
Thanks John. Do you mean extra weight for the frame or wheels, or are you talking about yourself?
What model garmin are you using?
Thanks for info, good stuff.
No problem 👍
Another RUclips channel recommended a 30 degree flared-out drop h/bar. I have an Origin 8 Gary h/bar but actually haven't tried it out on a gravel bike yet.
Thank you Patrick, that is very true and a great addition to the recommendations. Update us on how that Origin 8 bar works for you.
Pnw coastal dropper suspension seat stem
Great product there! I don't think they had that available when I made the video so that will definitely have to be in version 2. Thanks for the input!
Thinking about upgrading a contend AR 1, but can I do it for less than a defy pros cons and ideas, please?!
So sorry for the delay on this. I was camping with the family. It is similar to the Defy in terms of geometry. The major limiter on the Defy is tire clearance. Giant says the Defy can clear 35mm tires and that is the limit. While the Contend AR can clear up to 42mm tires though they claim it can only clear 38mm. If you are just riding light gravel and primarily road, the Defy would be the way to go but you will have limited tire clearance for mud and rocks in the Defy.
maybe not a pool noodle but an pipe insulation noodle does à great job , very cheap go to your local hardware store
Hi Alain, I actually thought about that after doing the video. Any pipe insulation would work wonders to reduce the vibrations. Thanks for the input.
Great content and you present really professionally but my dude you have got to stop begging for subs. They'll happen or they won't.
Just my 2¢
Hi Trevor, great feedback man! First off I actually hate when channels do a channel intro in every single one of their videos and ask for subs during that intro. I feel like it is a waste of time. I decided pretty quickly I did not want to do that, even though all the RUclips experts tell you to ask for subs in every video. I liked just flashing up the text asking for subs instead of setting aside time in the video to present the channel and ask for subs. In this particular video, I accidentally ran the Text asking for subs twice instead of my usual once so that was an editing mistake on my part. At the end of the video I will ask just because only 20% of viewers get to the end of videos so figured if you listened to me ramble on that long, you may want to subscribe :). I agree, the content is what will sell the channel, not the begging of subs. I appreciate your feedback, as you can tell I just started doing this about 4 months back so I am learning. Ride on man!
Trevor, dang you are right! I had that slide up 3 times! I should have caught that in editing. I think I can edit out a couple now so I appreciate it man.
@@BlackWaterCyclist as long as you don't think I'm a complete cock head for mentioning it.
@@thecrowfliescrooked Not at all man! I appreciate the heads up and honest feedback is what I want.
Or you could buy a mtb.
Wasn't mentioned but the single best thing you could do for comfort, get a good gravel centred bike fit. This will allow the rider to be more confident and relaxed and enable their body to soak the rough road surface without tiring. And you're not adding weight or costing significant money.
Great input, that is exactly right to get a better position.
As far as mtb on gravel, I did a video on that as well: ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html
Might as well buy an xc hardtail and put 700x40c on it
Pretty much, I did a video on setting up a mountain bike for gravel as well. ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html
@@BlackWaterCyclist you're doing great. So people with limited bike options, can upgrade bikes they own to suit one or another track conditions, instead of buying a whole new bike ya. Thanks for the tips 👍🏼
@@robbysiregar8341 Exactly! Thanks Robby for the comments and watching.
👍
The Rolling Resistance test with a drum is highly flawed and does not represent what happens on a flat surface. Also, lower rolling resistance must be offset by the increased watts needed to spin a heavier wheel due to heavier tires.
Hi Jay Tee, thanks for the input. Yeah I am more focused on the comfort of the ride than the pure rolling resistance but it has been proven that for the most part, wider tires roll faster at lower pressures, not just in this test but several other tests out there. Thanks for watching.
@@BlackWaterCyclist I don't doubt that wider tires roll faster. I've been riding for more than 24 years. I'm just saying that very few people are balancing the improved feel with the energy costs. Anyways, here is an interesting article from supple-tire pusher Jan Heine. www.renehersecycles.com/testing-tires-isnt-easy/
Clip on aero bars
Great point! Some people debate about that but if it puts you in a more relaxed position for your hands and you can still control the bike, its perfect!
@@BlackWaterCyclist it's more than that, on long trips, the bars give you a position where your hands and arms aren't under pressure, your hips are tilted, so your butt is on a different pressure point, resulting in a less sore behind and less tired arms and hands.
You can really hide a bit from a headwind, it's a much faster position, you can put it on most any bike. A mountainbike can be made much more comfortable for long days (bye bye drop bar conversion which are expensive, time consuming, takes away from actual mountainbike capabilities)
So yeah, aero bars are awesome.
@@gusjeazer do you have a recommended product for gravel setups? I’ve been thinking about this approach recently.
@@ChasHoff only a few tips. Don't get the bars that are almost completely straight, the way most tt-bikes have them. Look for bars with a comfortable hand/wrist position. They will end in a more vertical grip.
Bars that have a lot of options to adjust are better
Make sure your handlebars can accommodate aero clip ons. Carbon handlebars especially.
If your alu bars have an inch or so next to the stem before tapering off, it's probably fine.
If you have a retro bike or want to put the bars very wide, you'll need to use metal shimms to adjust the diameter. It's a slight hassle, but can be done.
There are a few different types of aero bars. Over the handlebars, underneath them, different heights,...
I look for comfort over absolute aerodynamics.
Also consider looks. I don't like bars that are extremely offset, hovering far above the handlebars.
You also don't have to spend a fortune. Cheap or budget bars do the same as expensive ones.
Maybe have a look at the set ups used in ultra cycling or long distance gravel races like the tour divide etc
My Doctor advised against water bottles on MTB and Gravel bikes because of the dirt and germs that get on them.He states Camelback is always safer and water is cleaner
That's actually a great point! I have heard of XC racers getting bad stomach bugs and issues from drinking from water bottles that were splashed with mud. Summer time, I will take my chances with the stomach bug, its kinda hot out for a camelback but in the winter, I would be game.
Camelback makes a mud cap for their bottles now. It's a silicone cover that covers the mouthpiece, and it goes on and off very quick and easy with just your thumb. They also have bottles that come with those caps installed.
You can use simple polithin bag for water bottle...
All of the information you've provided is easily available on each company's web site (a.k.a. "advertising"). The question you were supposed to answer is, "Do they work?".
Hi Stephen, sorry you were disappointed in the video. This was meant to inform riders of products they could use to add comfort to their gravel bikes, not as a review of products. If it were a review, then yes I would have been answering the question you mentioned. RUclips is one of the largest search engines in the world and I am just putting all these items in an 8 minute video instead of someone having to search individually online. Have a good one and ride on man.
Or just buy a MTB....
Hi Clint, you are exactly right when it comes to the suspension. I actually did a video on setting up your MTB for gravel. ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html
For those who do not mountain bike at all, I could see them being more interested in the Niner and the Fox fork.
Thanks for watching.
If you are still uncomfortable then... well then just get a Full Suspension MTB...
That is exactly right. Most people will gain some comfort by conditioning their bodies by riding more but some gravel can be very rough, especially on longer distances. I did a video on setting up your MTB for gravel as well.
ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html
Not everyone wants to go mountain biking.
So buy a mountain bike instead...
Pretty much! I did a video on setting up your MTB for gravel as well. ruclips.net/video/xFsQ_MIaHqU/видео.html
in other words, get a bike with suspension
Well if you want ultimate cush, then yes get suspension. I have thought about playing around with an old 26 inch full suspension MTB and make it into one of these newer full suspension gravel bikes.