Thank you for this tutorial. It was very helpful. The only question I have is: do you always have air assist off when you are scoring? I normally have mine on but will try with it off. Would you use this same materials test when you want to test the cut?
You can use any parameters youd like.. thats the great thing about this test.. You can limit it or expand it. But yes 300-1000mm and 1-100 power for the RF
Not sure what you mean. @9:40 it shows the test completed. If you are watching on a computer screen it should be clear. The point of the video is for you to understand how to make the test. If you run the test you will have one in your hand to inspect. Each material will yield different results.
In the real world, many wooden objects that you wish to engrave are made from blocks or strips of the same wood glued together (like butcher blocks). Especially woods like birch, acacia or bamboo. It's then that you find this test data useless because different coloured woods from the same tree have different damage thresholds and engrave with different colours. I'm not going to explain why this happens, that will have to to be part of your learning experience with laser technology . However you will note that any video demonstating this test does it on a fairly bland grainless wood like Baltic birch. This matix test gives the impression that colour contrast can be improved with more power. That is a totally false takeaway from this test. If you run a blowlamp across a plain wooden surface at different speeds you will produce scorches that range from the faintest brown to almost black. However, feel the surface and you will detect no depth or 3Dness to the colour range. There's something else going on with this martix test that means you only get more colour contast if you increase the power and engrave deeper, creating more messy brown surface residue. Explanation?
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Very nice. Thanks for explaining how to set the origin for the Material Cuts.
Thank you. Can you do a similar video as it relates to cutting material? Just to get a complete picture of cutting and engraving.
Thank you for this tutorial. It was very helpful. The only question I have is: do you always have air assist off when you are scoring? I normally have mine on but will try with it off. Would you use this same materials test when you want to test the cut?
Chris I set my Thunder Nova 35 100w machine exactly as you did in this video. Why is the cut time 48 minutes??? Thanks!😮
Why don't you use the start button in Lightburn with the Thunder?
Would you use the same parameters for the bolt?
You can use any parameters youd like.. thats the great thing about this test.. You can limit it or expand it. But yes 300-1000mm and 1-100 power for the RF
wondering why you didn't focus on or did a closeup of the finished product;
Not sure what you mean. @9:40 it shows the test completed. If you are watching on a computer screen it should be clear. The point of the video is for you to understand how to make the test. If you run the test you will have one in your hand to inspect. Each material will yield different results.
Tell me sir
wel i have tryed the test and he doesnt engrave but keeps cutting but my lightburn tabs looks difrent then yours even its the same 1.4.01
Did you change it from line to fill?
i did now but in stream i cant realy see the other settings by material lijk lijn per inch and lijn interval
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but even with the fill he is still cutting instead of engraving
hello
In the real world, many wooden objects that you wish to engrave are made from blocks or strips of the same wood glued together (like butcher blocks). Especially woods like birch, acacia or bamboo. It's then that you find this test data useless because different coloured woods from the same tree have different damage thresholds and engrave with different colours. I'm not going to explain why this happens, that will have to to be part of your learning experience with laser technology . However you will note that any video demonstating this test does it on a fairly bland grainless wood like Baltic birch. This matix test gives the impression that colour contrast can be improved with more power. That is a totally false takeaway from this test. If you run a blowlamp across a plain wooden surface at different speeds you will produce scorches that range from the faintest brown to almost black. However, feel the surface and you will detect no depth or 3Dness to the colour range. There's something else going on with this martix test that means you only get more colour contast if you increase the power and engrave deeper, creating more messy brown surface residue. Explanation?
Your video quality is good, But the seo of your video is not good, tag short, you need to do better seo, Then your video will have more views. Thanks