Great to see you Amy. I'd add a disclaimer that you should not leave the amp reading connected for too long. The way the amp reader works is by running current through a resistor inside the multimeter, and it will get hot if it's left connected with too high current for too long. The manual of your multimeter will tell you how long you can safely measure amps.
I LOVE the way you do your videos! So clear and to the point! I think you're the only one with a "testing solar panel" video that kindly and clearly explained the spark that comes from testing amperage... and how to reduce the probability (shading panel before connecting and before disconnecting). Brilliant!
Amy, I have watched over 50 different solar panel, solar chargers, and battery videos includeing the DIY ones. YOU have the very BEST videos! I am very happy with how you go into great detail and use clear, easy to understand diagrams in your videos. Now I understand what all of the numbers and letters stand for. And with this new video I can check the condition of solar panels! Really grateful, Thank You Very Much!
Amy, always a pleasure seeing your instructional videos when searching a particular solar related subject! Thanks for teaching all of us in the fashion you teach and all the best!
Amy, I had to look at your video to see what you were up to. I am glad when I find someone who actually knows what they are doing. I can tell you that this panel of yours act likes it is brand new and I hope that the store is still selling them. One improvement that you could have made was to hook up the tester and have the panel shaded with cardboard in front of it to keep it cooler and then quickly remove the cardboard for the current reading. Your reading for current was so high with the panel being hot that it really impressed me. And you are right about the standard test conditions. They flash test them in the Lab so they don't have a chance to get hot.
Great video, as someone who is familiar with electrics I don't think I could have explained it any better. Nice to see settings on multimeter and probe location! Thank you!
Outstanding….you go girl, Now that is a great demonstration….Vey well explained and understood I’ve had the pleasure of working in the electrical plumbing and heating field my whole life with that said you’re very expressive demonstration of how to test a solar panel was just excellent again thank you 👍
Actually, sparks should always be avoided at all costs (except as required such as in arc welding). Electrical sparks can cause transfer of metal, which when done to an electrical connector, can cause a high impedance connection, which may result in poor performance or heat generation and possible fire. Best practice is to always cover the panel, before connecting or disconnecting an ammeter (or any low impedance load, including the solar charge controller).
Good demonstration! I found out the hard way on how not to check the amperage with a meter and blew some diodes but now I like my inductive DC meter so I can check the power output without disconnecting anything
Great simple video. On a safety front I think you should tell people a little more than "to test properly, just disconnect from your solar charger" on a medium/large system this is actually very dangerous
Excellent point. I just had a single panel in mind, but if someone is testing a whole string or array at once, there's a lot of potential danger there.
My husband just told me this particular meter I'm borrowing from him has been around the world on ships with him when he was in the Merchant Marines in the late 80s. That thing never dies.
Measuring the open circuit voltage and current in most cases can let you know that the panel is working...........but not necessarily at its optimum.The best way to test a panel's actual output is with a load tester. The next best way is to use a good MPPT charge controller with accurate metering and a battery that is not fully charged.. I once had a Renogy panel that gave me the proper OC voltage and current but when you put it on an adjustable load or charge controller, the current would sag badly as the voltage increased. I could never get more than 30% of its rated wattage out of that panel. A normal I-V curve has a fairly flat current out to the Vmp and then rolls off. When you test OC current with a meter, you get the correct current because the voltage is near zero (shorted through the meter). The best way is to measure the current and voltage when a load is applied, and optimize the load like an MPPT chg controller does, such that you see the highest product of volts x current.
This test shows if the panel is functional... However, the problem with this test is no one ever actually uses the panels with a short circuit or open circuit. The real test is when you have an actual load like a battery that is low with a controller that is rated to use enough load to be measured. Alternatively, you may use a power analyzer that would rate the output of the panel accurately.
I am your old student (friend ), I have one new idea to avoid battery in off grid, we pump water to over head tank by solar electricity in day and draw back the current by using hydrogenarator for this pelton wheel is good. For practical try this once (hear PSI -pressure -calculation is important ).
Hello! That is called Pumped-storage hydroelectricity, you can see more about it at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pumped-storage_hydroelectricity. I recently read an article where they will be doing this at an old coal mine, turning dirty energy into clean!
Thanks so much. I need those readings for warranty coverage of 2 of 40 panels in my array. I have an old Fluke 73 that says it can handle 10 A and my panels have an Isc of 9.41 A. I'm going to flinch and grimace when I short that circuit. I've had the multimeter for about 45 yrs and have never ventured to make a current reading before.
just a question making a short between the wires of the solar panel ( short between positive and negative) will it destroy the panel ? or is it ok to test any panel like this ? i was thinking it is like a battery where you can damage the internal resistance of the battery also thank you Amy for the knowledge you are spreading
Always love your informative videos Amy, however you could have mentioned at the end of the video the rookie mistake that even the pros make way too often, like forgetting to put the positive probe lead back into it's regular position/spot, cause you just know that the next test with that multimeter will be a voltage check, and zap, there goes that dang internal fuse! lol
Good point. I admit to doing that myself in the past. But, if I had to warn them about all of the potential mistakes they could make, my videos would be endless ;) .
Very well done. Just a question...for both measurements do I have to connect the multimeter (in Volt and Amps mode) directly to the solar panel's output pins? Thank you in advance from Italy :)
Thanks for the video. I recently got a 100W solar panel and i measured a short circuit current of 2.6A instead of the ideal 6.2A.This solar panel is outputing 57W, should i return it?
Note, also, that some multi-testers have a time limit for that amperage connection - things get hot. For instance, my Craftsman multimeter says to establish the "10A [connection for] 30 seconds MAX every 15 minutes."
I have two sets of folding panels from two diff companies and if I test with a dmm under ideal sun they both have the same # watts, just over 100. But when I hook these up to my power station, do they recharge at the same rate, no. The voltage drop is different. The voltage drops as soon as you apply a load but the variance is unpredictable. Sometimes you can measure this with a dmm but most times you can't unless you modify the cables. But even if you do, this isn't the usage. I mean, I often read people saying they get X watts charging from a solar panel because they are reading off the display on the PS which doesn't take into account that the PS is probably limiting the charge. e.g. I bought a pack and I couldn't figure out why the input charge varied from 31 to 38. Part of it was the variance in voltage but also it's because the max input was 45 but then reduced by .8-.9. So 100w, 120w or whatever, the max amt of energy used is 31 to 38 watts. i.e. always recharges at the same rate if the panel puts out more charge. If your device like a power station doesn't have a display you don't know how much you're using from the panels.
When measuring for watts due you use 12v x amps =watts or the 120v x amps = watts to get correct wattage from panels? Or would the specs on the back of panel tell you what range of volts/amps are producing?
Hi Amy, thanks for all you do! I went out & bought a multimeter, today was perfect, not a cloud & 79 degrees, my bi-facial 390watt panel sticker showed 10.14amps, 48.7volts - the amps showed 10.5, so that was good, but the volts would not really compute, the multimeter was all over the board as to what registered, I mean up & down, never settling on a figure, wild range of numbers, and my positive probe fried black on the tip - do I need a more stout multimeter to handle the output of this panel? Apparently under best conditions the maker says both sides working can yield 470watts. I hope with the sparking & frying the probe it didn't hurt the panel & its woring/electronics! Multimeter getting fried, $39 Harbor Frieght no big deal, panel, $189...😁 Thanks for your thoughts.
If you have the meter I think you do, select the Volts next to the OFF on the dial, and use the push button to select DC. The wild readings sounds like it may be set on AC. Do not select the 12V option, that is too low for the panel, it is for reading the battery. Make absolute sure the probes are in the correct sockets for measuring volts, the black in COM and the red in Input to the right, not Amps to the left where you measured the amps. To reduce shocks, cover the panel with a blanket or something while you are connecting the probes, then remove the blanket.
Ok, so you were right, I had the red plugged into the A socket on the left, so now I'll try it into the other hole on the right - the right one in tiny writing says Max 600V - I'll give it a whirl, thanks Amy!
Thanks. I just received 6 of those 100W panels. I just wonder who they would perform under a load, for instance : A heater bed for a 3D printer, or a dc motor. Would the voltage drop ? Because they're supposed to be 18V with open circuit voltage 22.50V
Hi, I have an issue with a 340W ( Vmp 32 V, Imp 10A, Voc 40V, Isc 10A.6) mono solar panel I recently bought. The voltage reading without load is fine, but without load I can never get more than 1.8A. As soon as it's connected to my microinverter or my off-grid inverter, the current goes down to 0.1/0.3 A and it never makes more than 11W. No shade, no visible damage, nothing. I already change the MC4 connectors, check voltage continuity in the cables, changes cable, tested the bypass diodes, temporary replaced the bypass diodes, and still nothing. Always the same 5-11W power production. What could it be? I run out of ideas..... Thanks!!
8.19.20 Amy question: In your opinion should it matter if the panel is horizontal or vertical to produce the most amps? I noticed when you twisted the panel you were able to up the amps a bit. Thanks for the video.
The twist pointed it towards the sun in the SW a little better, as it was afternoon. It had been facing more towards the south, which was better earlier in the day. Horizontal vs. vertical shouldn't make a difference.
Thank you for making this so simple! Any suggestions why my Voc would drop to 0.00V on a Fluke multimeter and the Isc doesn’t register at all? i have module covers and connecting direct to the terminals/solders inside. My 4 by 100W system in 2p2s electrical arrangement stopped working yesterday. When i checked panels, I found 1 that had several small (pencil erasure sized) electrical burns thrpugh the top layer (flexible panels) and no marks whatsoever on the bottoms. When i tested the ‘bad’ panels, I saw about 22v (Voc is 22) initially, then it went to 0. Saw a bit of current (Isc is 6.1), but heard nor saw any spark, and it went to zero also. The other 3 panels without any visible signs of electrical shorts will not register any current or voltage??? At a complete loss as this system with 135AH AGMs and a MPPT CC have worked flawlessly for 2 years
I have a sunsul 30 wat solar panel but the solar control modular it came with is messed up.had weird wire connectors.it is a 5 am but can i go up to a 10 or 20a?
I'm not using all the plugs that came with the unit. Some of the panels are just wired together without those clip plugs. These clip plugs have any sort of diodes? Can they cause issues?
I've watched your video several times now, and it is quite clear how to test both volts and amps (assuming the probes of my multimeter will actually fit into the solar panel connectors). But what I am not clear about is the application: WHY would I be measuring volts, or measuring watts? What will a reduced reading of either tell me? What will the panel not-do if either of them are lower than expected?
Generally speaking, panels degrade at a steady rate over time. You can often find the decay rate listed in the panel's spec sheet. Assuming you are able to get the panel exposed to sunlight at the optimum angle, you can estimate the age of the panel based on its measured outputs.
my multimeter has a 20A but without a load connected it won't show the amps. can you tell me how your multimeter is showing amps without a load been connected. thanks.
Question - so the panel makes about 110 watt under your current condition, but we can only use about 20 to 30 percent of that watt? I’m asking this because our home solar panel is 3 kW system but only produce about 20% of that.
Hi, have installed 3*450w panels in series (VOC 49.6v, Imp 10.98a). The multimeter shows 144voc and 0 amps (setting: DC 10A on multimeter for amps). I even checked individual panels and the amps is 0. Please help 🙏. Thanks
I have four panels 2 sets in series and then parallel. I guess if I had one dead panel I could still still the same voltage but less amps? I've been having issues with it not pushing as many amps I had in previous years.. I haven't tested each panel separately...
Hi,help me please,i have two 400w solar pannel hooked up in series.When i meassure volt and amps with multimeter i have this( 80v with 9A= 720w) but when i connect them on my mppt i have only 250w. In load drop the power more than half. Can you give an advice. Thanks a lot. Cheers
My problem is when I plug the brand new solar panel into the controller there's no reading (lank screen). Tried 2 different controllers, same results. One of the controllers I been using with no problem. I bought a new controller (identical) and switch over. All of a sudden no reading on either controller. WHAT COULD BE THE ISSUE?
Thank you for the video Ms. Queen Amy-- stupid question: You said since the panel is only 100w (39VDC) you were not worried about the sparking. How is this wired if you have say 15 panels in series when the voltage is >600VDC? Does it need to be wired in the dark??
The problem is that that is not sufficient for a warranty claim. I had a panel that failed dramatically and was only producing half the open circuit voltage. The manufacturer required that I pay a licensed solar specialist to test the panel, which would have cost more than just replacing the panel. Based on that, I've determined that solar panel warranties are as useless as the paper they are written on. In the 25 years I've been using PV panels, I've had two panels fail catastrophically. That's about a 12 percent failure rate. What's funny is that the oldest panels are still working, albeit at a somewhat reduced output. The failures have both been panels that were under 10 years old. I'm sure different manufacturers have different warranties, but I've never seen any vendor actually publish the warranty details.
As you said, different manufacturers handle warranty differently. We have processed them for our customers, and most do allow for customer testing. We try to post the warranty info when we can, www.altestore.com/static/datafiles/Others/REC_TWINPEAK2S_72_Warranty.pdf
Great vid.i have a fluke like your one just older. 10 amps only. My panels are supposed to put out 20. I was told join positive and negative together and put my ammeter with jaws around wires. I did that and no reading? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia 🙂
I have a question that has nothing to do with your demo. How is it possible to connect two different sources in parallel. I mean the AC domestic network coming from the provider and the AC source coming from solar panels converters. I guess we might have some phasis issues if the connection is not well managed, no ? Thanks for your support.
Great question. Grid tied inverters are designed to detect the existing grid and sync with it. That's why you can't connect an inverter that isn't designed for the grid to the grid. An off-grid inverter creates its own signal, gridtie inverters just jump onboard with the existing one. Likewise, with offgrid inverters that are designed to be stacked to increase watts, they have a communication cable between them to determine who is the leader and who is the follower. This lets them sync together.
Air Force trained technician here. Using a meter's 'inline' amp function, as a 'load', is NOT a test setup that any meter manufacturer says to do. BUT, if, (BIG IF), the expected MAX amps of circuit under test, is a KNOWN LOWER VALUE than the meter's max, then, for ONLY a FEW seconds, it is a safe test to use a meter's 'inline' amp-meter function, as, THE LOAD. But, I've never, EVER, seen it done before this video. EVER. So, maybe, just maybe, I got SCHOOLED, by a GIRL!
Every day you learn something new is a good day. If it makes you feel better, a boy taught me to measure this way 12 years ago. ruclips.net/video/fkook28HhWI/видео.html
Hi Amy. Your Voltage difference between Voc and actually measured Voltage, is not as much an effect of temperature, as it is of irradiance. under STC the solar panel is illuminated with a short flash of 1000W/m², which generates the Voltage of 44,6VDC on your specific panel. In real life the illumination is depending og the amount of direct/indirect sunlight which also have an effect on the open source voltage and the Short circiute current. Temperature coeffcient of Voc is typical -0.3V/K which really menas a few voltage in real life installations, and not 8-10V as you show.
I have some new 100W solar panels that are flexible in order to be mounted to a robot. The Voc is around 19V which is correct for my panel and the Isc is supposed to be 6.9 A, however I am getting between 30-60mA. This on a pretty good sunny day and even if it wasn't full sun, my understanding would be that the amps should be much higher normally. Have you run into this problem? Is it fixable, or are my panels bad?
@@AltEStore Thank you, that was my thinking. The only doubt that I had was that we are in winter and full sun is less than normal. But even still the amperage should be closer to 5A and 4A at the lowest from what I understand.
It would have been more helpful if you had showed a close up of what you were doing for instance with the multimeter switching the cords and things. I've never used it for a before so I don't know exactly what you were doing.
Hi, please do you have any idea why panels above 320w with above 45Voc stops producing amps once the voltage from the panel is above 45volts? I have setup two systems with different panels and makes and both doing the same thing. I thought it's my charge controller but I changed the controller, same issue. Then I decided to install watt meter before the charge controller and I noticed that, when the sun is really up and blasting, the voltage ⚡ rises above 45v, the panel stops producing amps. What can be done in this case please?
Likely charge controller over voltage protection. Check the manual. It likely has a feature to avoid letting the magic smoke out if you connect a panel or panels with higher voltage and or current than it is designed to handle. Solution, ensure the charge controller selected can not only handled rated Watts, but also applied voltage.
@@rodbrandon3590 many thanks for your reply....but I have a Watt meter before the charge controller and it reads 0.00amps at 43.9v upwards just as the charge controller
don't short a Panel over a Multimeter the internal shunt is not made for dissipating a 100W, it is built to withstand high current 10A but only when u use a load in series, so that the Voltage can drop over ur load. When u use a 250W or even a 380W Panel ur current Measurement path in this Multimeter will go up in flames.
Great to see you Amy. I'd add a disclaimer that you should not leave the amp reading connected for too long. The way the amp reader works is by running current through a resistor inside the multimeter, and it will get hot if it's left connected with too high current for too long. The manual of your multimeter will tell you how long you can safely measure amps.
Thanks for the tip!
I love your very good presentation, your very good age and know how, clearing 61 years myself, your an encouragement. Thank you for your video.
I LOVE the way you do your videos! So clear and to the point! I think you're the only one with a "testing solar panel" video that kindly and clearly explained the spark that comes from testing amperage... and how to reduce the probability (shading panel before connecting and before disconnecting). Brilliant!
Amy, I have watched over 50 different solar panel, solar chargers, and battery videos includeing the DIY ones. YOU have the very BEST videos! I am very happy with how you go into great detail and use clear, easy to understand diagrams in your videos. Now I understand what all of the numbers and letters stand for.
And with this new video I can check the condition of solar panels! Really grateful, Thank You Very Much!
Amy, always a pleasure seeing your instructional videos when searching a particular solar related subject! Thanks for teaching all of us in the fashion you teach and all the best!
Amy, I had to look at your video to see what you were up to. I am glad when I find someone who actually knows what they are doing. I can tell you that this panel of yours act likes it is brand new and I hope that the store is still selling them.
One improvement that you could have made was to hook up the tester and have the panel shaded with cardboard in front of it to keep it cooler and then quickly remove the cardboard for the current reading. Your reading for current was so high with the panel being hot that it really impressed me. And you are right about the standard test conditions. They flash test them in the Lab so they don't have a chance to get hot.
Dear you are so good in explaining and you are the best
Great video! Short, sweet, and straight to the point yet didn’t dismissed essential details of the subject. Thank you!
Hi Amy nice to see you again, thanx for the tip 👍
That was a great example and cool tech teach for someone who doesn't have a clue on how to use a multi meter and would like to. Thank you.
Great video, as someone who is familiar with electrics I don't think I could have explained it any better. Nice to see settings on multimeter and probe location! Thank you!
Good Video! So clear and to the point and I learned something so thank you.
Love it! Straightforward and simple…and thanks for the caution re: the “spark”.
The solar queen is back, awesome, great to see ya again amy.
Great to be back!
Outstanding….you go girl, Now that is a great demonstration….Vey well explained and understood
I’ve had the pleasure of working in the electrical plumbing and heating field my whole life with that said you’re very expressive demonstration of how to test a solar panel was just excellent again thank you 👍
Actually, sparks should always be avoided at all costs (except as required such as in arc welding). Electrical sparks can cause transfer of metal, which when done to an electrical connector, can cause a high impedance connection, which may result in poor performance or heat generation and possible fire. Best practice is to always cover the panel, before connecting or disconnecting an ammeter (or any low impedance load, including the solar charge controller).
Thanks. I followed your instructions to check my 400W panel, covering the panel before connecting the leads so no spark.
Thank you! I was very confused before I watched this video.
Thank you for your help. I had no idea how to use a multimeter and you made it super simple. I found my connection issue
You are very clear and correct teaching in all your videos. Thanks for sharing
Good demonstration! I found out the hard way on how not to check the amperage with a meter and blew some diodes but now I like my inductive DC meter so I can check the power output without disconnecting anything
Just curious where did you go wrong when doing your testing? Cheers Jake
Excellent! Now I just have to go buy a multi-meter. Thank you for this video, helps a ton!.
Thks for understanding the concepts
U look different in this vedio compare to others
Happy to see u
Great simple video. On a safety front I think you should tell people a little more than "to test properly, just disconnect from your solar charger" on a medium/large system this is actually very dangerous
Excellent point. I just had a single panel in mind, but if someone is testing a whole string or array at once, there's a lot of potential danger there.
Wow I have the same fluke from circa 1988. Still work awesome!
I love that meter!
Ditto. I bought mine in 1987 and still use it !
My husband just told me this particular meter I'm borrowing from him has been around the world on ships with him when he was in the Merchant Marines in the late 80s. That thing never dies.
Perfect video, just the information I wanted. So helpful
I’m learning so much from your videos, I’m grateful for your help
Measuring the open circuit voltage and current in most cases can let you know that the panel is working...........but not necessarily at its optimum.The best way to test a panel's actual output is with a load tester. The next best way is to use a good MPPT charge controller with accurate metering and a battery that is not fully charged..
I once had a Renogy panel that gave me the proper OC voltage and current but when you put it on an adjustable load or charge controller, the current would sag badly as the voltage increased. I could never get more than 30% of its rated wattage out of that panel. A normal I-V curve has a fairly flat current out to the Vmp and then rolls off. When you test OC current with a meter, you get the correct current because the voltage is near zero (shorted through the meter). The best way is to measure the current and voltage when a load is applied, and optimize the load like an MPPT chg controller does, such that you see the highest product of volts x current.
This test shows if the panel is functional... However, the problem with this test is no one ever actually uses the panels with a short circuit or open circuit. The real test is when you have an actual load like a battery that is low with a controller that is rated to use enough load to be measured. Alternatively, you may use a power analyzer that would rate the output of the panel accurately.
I am your old student (friend ), I have one new idea to avoid battery in off grid, we pump water to over head tank by solar electricity in day and draw back the current by using hydrogenarator for this pelton wheel is good. For practical try this once (hear PSI -pressure -calculation is important ).
Hello! That is called Pumped-storage hydroelectricity, you can see more about it at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pumped-storage_hydroelectricity. I recently read an article where they will be doing this at an old coal mine, turning dirty energy into clean!
Thanks so much. I need those readings for warranty coverage of 2 of 40 panels in my array. I have an old Fluke 73 that says it can handle 10 A and my panels have an Isc of 9.41 A. I'm going to flinch and grimace when I short that circuit. I've had the multimeter for about 45 yrs and have never ventured to make a current reading before.
I was just on your website looking at small inverter chargers for my computer center to keep the internet live during grid failure
An all-in-one like this? www.altestore.com/store/portable-power-systems/xantrex-xpower-powerpack-1500-portable-backup-powerpack-p2066/
@@AltEStore thanks, this doesn't work for me
Many thanks for your time Madam.
Nice demo. Also as you know the angle of Sunlight Radiance onto your test panel depending on your latitude affects its output also.
Thanks Amy 😍🙏
I have 4 solar panels which was blown down by cyclone so this is a good way to know that they are working fine!
Thank you as always for an informative awesome video!
just a question
making a short between the wires of the solar panel ( short between positive and negative) will it destroy the panel ?
or is it ok to test any panel like this ?
i was thinking it is like a battery where you can damage the internal resistance of the battery
also thank you Amy for the knowledge you are spreading
Unlike a battery, it is perfectly fine to short a solar panel. It will spark if in the sun when making the connection, but the panel will be fine.
Always love your informative videos Amy, however you could have mentioned at the end of the video the rookie mistake that even the pros make way too often, like forgetting to put the positive probe lead back into it's regular position/spot, cause you just know that the next test with that multimeter will be a voltage check, and zap, there goes that dang internal fuse! lol
Good point. I admit to doing that myself in the past. But, if I had to warn them about all of the potential mistakes they could make, my videos would be endless ;) .
@@devarmont87 Lots of expensive, professional meters will still blow a glass fuse.
Your content is awesome. subscribing before 100000 subss :)
Thank you, very helpful.
Very well done. Just a question...for both measurements do I have to connect the multimeter (in Volt and Amps mode) directly to the solar panel's output pins? Thank you in advance from Italy :)
Yes the the output pins are the place you will get the most accurate reading.
Great job Amy!
Thanks for the video. I recently got a 100W solar panel and i measured a short circuit current of 2.6A instead of the ideal 6.2A.This solar panel is outputing 57W, should i return it?
Good job Amy! So if it does not work, can you troubleshoot or fix it?
Thank you, Ma'am!!!🎉
Note, also, that some multi-testers have a time limit for that amperage connection - things get hot. For instance, my Craftsman multimeter says to establish the "10A [connection for] 30 seconds MAX every 15 minutes."
I've learned something!
I have two sets of folding panels from two diff companies and if I test with a dmm under ideal sun they both have the same # watts, just over 100. But when I hook these up to my power station, do they recharge at the same rate, no. The voltage drop is different. The voltage drops as soon as you apply a load but the variance is unpredictable. Sometimes you can measure this with a dmm but most times you can't unless you modify the cables. But even if you do, this isn't the usage. I mean, I often read people saying they get X watts charging from a solar panel because they are reading off the display on the PS which doesn't take into account that the PS is probably limiting the charge. e.g. I bought a pack and I couldn't figure out why the input charge varied from 31 to 38. Part of it was the variance in voltage but also it's because the max input was 45 but then reduced by .8-.9. So 100w, 120w or whatever, the max amt of energy used is 31 to 38 watts. i.e. always recharges at the same rate if the panel puts out more charge. If your device like a power station doesn't have a display you don't know how much you're using from the panels.
When measuring for watts due you use 12v x amps =watts or the 120v x amps = watts to get correct wattage from panels? Or would the specs on the back of panel tell you what range of volts/amps are producing?
Hi Amy, thanks for all you do!
I went out & bought a multimeter, today was perfect, not a cloud & 79 degrees, my bi-facial 390watt panel sticker showed 10.14amps, 48.7volts - the amps showed 10.5, so that was good, but the volts would not really compute, the multimeter was all over the board as to what registered, I mean up & down, never settling on a figure, wild range of numbers, and my positive probe fried black on the tip - do I need a more stout multimeter to handle the output of this panel? Apparently under best conditions the maker says both sides working can yield 470watts. I hope with the sparking & frying the probe it didn't hurt the panel & its woring/electronics! Multimeter getting fried, $39 Harbor Frieght no big deal, panel, $189...😁
Thanks for your thoughts.
If you have the meter I think you do, select the Volts next to the OFF on the dial, and use the push button to select DC. The wild readings sounds like it may be set on AC. Do not select the 12V option, that is too low for the panel, it is for reading the battery. Make absolute sure the probes are in the correct sockets for measuring volts, the black in COM and the red in Input to the right, not Amps to the left where you measured the amps. To reduce shocks, cover the panel with a blanket or something while you are connecting the probes, then remove the blanket.
Ok, so you were right, I had the red plugged into the A socket on the left, so now I'll try it into the other hole on the right - the right one in tiny writing says Max 600V - I'll give it a whirl, thanks Amy!
It worked! Thanks for setting me straight Amy, 47.8 volts, 10.5 Amps, the darn thing is 500 watts!
Thanks. I just received 6 of those 100W panels.
I just wonder who they would perform under a load, for instance : A heater bed for a 3D printer, or a dc motor.
Would the voltage drop ? Because they're supposed to be 18V with open circuit voltage 22.50V
Hi, I have an issue with a 340W ( Vmp 32 V, Imp 10A, Voc 40V, Isc 10A.6) mono solar panel I recently bought. The voltage reading without load is fine, but without load I can never get more than 1.8A. As soon as it's connected to my microinverter or my off-grid inverter, the current goes down to 0.1/0.3 A and it never makes more than 11W. No shade, no visible damage, nothing. I already change the MC4 connectors, check voltage continuity in the cables, changes cable, tested the bypass diodes, temporary replaced the bypass diodes, and still nothing. Always the same 5-11W power production.
What could it be? I run out of ideas.....
Thanks!!
8.19.20 Amy question: In your opinion should it matter if the panel is horizontal or vertical to produce the most amps? I noticed when you twisted the panel you were able to up the amps a bit. Thanks for the video.
The twist pointed it towards the sun in the SW a little better, as it was afternoon. It had been facing more towards the south, which was better earlier in the day. Horizontal vs. vertical shouldn't make a difference.
Thank you for making this so simple!
Any suggestions why my Voc would drop to 0.00V on a Fluke multimeter and the Isc doesn’t register at all?
i have module covers and connecting direct to the terminals/solders inside.
My 4 by 100W system in 2p2s electrical arrangement stopped working yesterday. When i checked panels, I found 1 that had several small (pencil erasure sized) electrical burns thrpugh the top layer (flexible panels) and no marks whatsoever on the bottoms. When i tested the ‘bad’ panels, I saw about 22v (Voc is 22) initially, then it went to 0. Saw a bit of current (Isc is 6.1), but heard nor saw any spark, and it went to zero also.
The other 3 panels without any visible signs of electrical shorts will not register any current or voltage???
At a complete loss as this system with 135AH AGMs and a MPPT CC have worked flawlessly for 2 years
Thanks Mis great video
I have a sunsul 30 wat solar panel but the solar control modular it came with is messed up.had weird wire connectors.it is a 5 am but can i go up to a 10 or 20a?
I'm not using all the plugs that came with the unit. Some of the panels are just wired together without those clip plugs. These clip plugs have any sort of diodes? Can they cause issues?
Super helpful - thanks
RIP Amy
I've watched your video several times now, and it is quite clear how to test both volts and amps (assuming the probes of my multimeter will actually fit into the solar panel connectors).
But what I am not clear about is the application: WHY would I be measuring volts, or measuring watts? What will a reduced reading of either tell me? What will the panel not-do if either of them are lower than expected?
Generally speaking, panels degrade at a steady rate over time. You can often find the decay rate listed in the panel's spec sheet. Assuming you are able to get the panel exposed to sunlight at the optimum angle, you can estimate the age of the panel based on its measured outputs.
my multimeter has a 20A but without a load connected it won't show the amps. can you tell me how your multimeter is showing amps without a load been connected. thanks.
Question - so the panel makes about 110 watt under your current condition, but we can only use about 20 to 30 percent of that watt? I’m asking this because our home solar panel is 3 kW system but only produce about 20% of that.
Hi, have installed 3*450w panels in series (VOC 49.6v, Imp 10.98a). The multimeter shows 144voc and 0 amps (setting: DC 10A on multimeter for amps). I even checked individual panels and the amps is 0. Please help 🙏. Thanks
I have four panels
2 sets in series and then parallel. I guess if I had one dead panel I could still still the same voltage but less amps? I've been having issues with it not pushing as many amps I had in previous years.. I haven't tested each panel separately...
Hi! If a wire with a 120 volt phase touches the frame of a solar panel that has not yet been installed, could it damage that panel? Thanks
Clear explanation. Thanks.
What is the load when testing the current?
How can I test the diode on my 80wats solar panels because it does not give the power to charge the battery?
Hi,help me please,i have two 400w solar pannel hooked up in series.When i meassure volt and amps with multimeter i have this( 80v with 9A= 720w) but when i connect them on my mppt i have only 250w. In load drop the power more than half. Can you give an advice. Thanks a lot. Cheers
My problem is when I plug the brand new solar panel into the controller there's no reading (lank screen). Tried 2 different controllers, same results. One of the controllers I been using with no problem. I bought a new controller (identical) and switch over. All of a sudden no reading on either controller. WHAT COULD BE THE ISSUE?
Thank you for the video Ms. Queen Amy-- stupid question: You said since the panel is only 100w (39VDC) you were not worried about the sparking. How is this wired if you have say 15 panels in series when the voltage is >600VDC?
Does it need to be wired in the dark??
Well done 🎉😊
The problem is that that is not sufficient for a warranty claim. I had a panel that failed dramatically and was only producing half the open circuit voltage. The manufacturer required that I pay a licensed solar specialist to test the panel, which would have cost more than just replacing the panel. Based on that, I've determined that solar panel warranties are as useless as the paper they are written on.
In the 25 years I've been using PV panels, I've had two panels fail catastrophically. That's about a 12 percent failure rate. What's funny is that the oldest panels are still working, albeit at a somewhat reduced output. The failures have both been panels that were under 10 years old.
I'm sure different manufacturers have different warranties, but I've never seen any vendor actually publish the warranty details.
As you said, different manufacturers handle warranty differently. We have processed them for our customers, and most do allow for customer testing.
We try to post the warranty info when we can, www.altestore.com/static/datafiles/Others/REC_TWINPEAK2S_72_Warranty.pdf
Awesome lady.
Thanks
COOP
...
There's a million videos of people testing panels and I still haven't found one that points to problems that are diagnosed by the results.
RIP, Amy Beaudet, our Solar Queen.
Great job .
great info. thanks
I miss her.
I've found broken glass panels. what should I be concerned about?
Great vid.i have a fluke like your one just older. 10 amps only. My panels are supposed to put out 20. I was told join positive and negative together and put my ammeter with jaws around wires. I did that and no reading? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia 🙂
Are you sure your meter can read DC amps, not just AC? My personal clamp on meter can only read AC.
Yes now I get it, thanks
I have a question that has nothing to do with your demo.
How is it possible to connect two different sources in parallel.
I mean the AC domestic network coming from the provider and the AC source coming from solar panels converters.
I guess we might have some phasis issues if the connection is not well managed, no ?
Thanks for your support.
Great question. Grid tied inverters are designed to detect the existing grid and sync with it. That's why you can't connect an inverter that isn't designed for the grid to the grid. An off-grid inverter creates its own signal, gridtie inverters just jump onboard with the existing one. Likewise, with offgrid inverters that are designed to be stacked to increase watts, they have a communication cable between them to determine who is the leader and who is the follower. This lets them sync together.
Please make more videos!
I'm working on some more. Sorry for the delay!
Very good Thanks a lot !!!!
Air Force trained technician here. Using a meter's 'inline' amp function, as a 'load', is NOT a test setup that any meter manufacturer says to do. BUT, if, (BIG IF), the expected MAX amps of circuit under test, is a KNOWN LOWER VALUE than the meter's max, then, for ONLY a FEW seconds, it is a safe test to use a meter's 'inline' amp-meter function, as, THE LOAD. But, I've never, EVER, seen it done before this video. EVER. So, maybe, just maybe, I got SCHOOLED, by a GIRL!
Every day you learn something new is a good day. If it makes you feel better, a boy taught me to measure this way 12 years ago. ruclips.net/video/fkook28HhWI/видео.html
Good job, thank you
Hi Amy. Your Voltage difference between Voc and actually measured Voltage, is not as much an effect of temperature, as it is of irradiance. under STC the solar panel is illuminated with a short flash of 1000W/m², which generates the Voltage of 44,6VDC on your specific panel. In real life the illumination is depending og the amount of direct/indirect sunlight which also have an effect on the open source voltage and the Short circiute current. Temperature coeffcient of Voc is typical -0.3V/K which really menas a few voltage in real life installations, and not 8-10V as you show.
I have some new 100W solar panels that are flexible in order to be mounted to a robot. The Voc is around 19V which is correct for my panel and the Isc is supposed to be 6.9 A, however I am getting between 30-60mA. This on a pretty good sunny day and even if it wasn't full sun, my understanding would be that the amps should be much higher normally. Have you run into this problem? Is it fixable, or are my panels bad?
If you are measuring them correctly in full sun, pointing toward the sun, they sure sound broken. You should be getting closer to 6A.
@@AltEStore Thank you, that was my thinking. The only doubt that I had was that we are in winter and full sun is less than normal. But even still the amperage should be closer to 5A and 4A at the lowest from what I understand.
It would have been more helpful if you had showed a close up of what you were doing for instance with the multimeter switching the cords and things. I've never used it for a before so I don't know exactly what you were doing.
I meant amps^
What if the voc is lower than specified ?
Thank you.
Hi. Why would my panel give me near enough the 21.6v Voc (20.8v) and only 0.050A on the Ipm when it should be 5.55A? Much appreciated.
Possibly a fractured cell. Is this a low quality semi-flexible panel by chance?
@@rodbrandon3590 no. It's a solid panel
Hi, please do you have any idea why panels above 320w with above 45Voc stops producing amps once the voltage from the panel is above 45volts?
I have setup two systems with different panels and makes and both doing the same thing.
I thought it's my charge controller but I changed the controller, same issue. Then I decided to install watt meter before the charge controller and I noticed that, when the sun is really up and blasting, the voltage ⚡ rises above 45v, the panel stops producing amps.
What can be done in this case please?
Likely charge controller over voltage protection. Check the manual. It likely has a feature to avoid letting the magic smoke out if you connect a panel or panels with higher voltage and or current than it is designed to handle. Solution, ensure the charge controller selected can not only handled rated Watts, but also applied voltage.
@@rodbrandon3590 many thanks for your reply....but I have a Watt meter before the charge controller and it reads 0.00amps at 43.9v upwards just as the charge controller
2.87amps x 39.3volts = 112.79watts, is that right a 100w panel producing more than 100w?
The nominal numbers work out to 135w.
nice vid, thanks for posting
Thank you✨🙏
don't short a Panel over a Multimeter the internal shunt is not made for dissipating a 100W, it is built to withstand high current 10A but only when u use a load in series, so that the Voltage can drop over ur load. When u use a 250W or even a 380W Panel ur current Measurement path in this Multimeter will go up in flames.