Lexus tech here who is apart of the dealer's shop foreman team. Go back and look at your pictures of the bolt. I believe the first one or two pics. Really study that one. I saw the leak in 2 seconds. Not even a common place like at all to have the leak. Only saw it a dozen or so times over the years. If you still can't find it i will help you. Finally don't use this junk. Tear down the engine and do it right. Just take the bumper radiator condensor fans and a few other sheet metal sections then you have easy quick access to the whole front of the engine. Literally because I've ti!Ed myself and other techs over the decade of this IS I have been working on them it takes 3 hours to do. So!eti!es 2 hours and 50 minutes of you don't lose or drop a bolt and have to find it lol.
So at your dealership you guys were not dropping the engine as per the TSIB EG001-07? Also the TSB also states to replace the camshaft housing sub assemblies, is that also necessary or is it just a reseal that needs to be done? Also the permatex sealant ended up failing over time, though not quite in the way I expected. I recorded an update on it the other day but I haven't had a chance to update it yet unfortunately life has been hectic lately. I'll try and get it up shortly and link that one to this one properly. I've yet to come across a proper guide for the whole task, all I've found is people who managed to get it done under extended warranty, or they were given the $3000 flat rate fee and said no thanks. Without asking you to go too in depth, how much of the motor needs to come apart to address this properly? And what parts are actually needed? The TSIB specs a whole upper engine gasket set complete with head gaskets, the aforementioned camshaft housings, along with what appears to be replacing all the timing cover bolts with a new part number. Its sounding like one of those situations where the TSIB doesn't reflect how the repair is actually done. Thanks in advance.
@@Canuckrz Where are you located? Also, no the motor we do not drop. Well at least me and my team. We are under the supervision of the shop foreman so we have different ways and more experience to go about things. We always just remove or now supervise techs in just removing the the front of the vehicle as it is much quicker for and cheaper for the customer. Idk if you can send a pm on here but if you can please find a way to send me the year or the vin and we can go from there. If you don't want to do it yourself and no all those gaskets except for three in the camshaft assemble need replaced as the old design caused breaking of gaskets causing the bearing cap oil galleys to clog thus no oil pressure for the cams leading to well I'm sure you can guess lol. Other than that no don't replace all those gaskets unless you see physically an issue or you have the old design of those camshaft assemble gaskets. For me 3 hour job. For most tech at my dealer 4.5 to 5. basic diy don't attempt. experienced diy 3 to 5 hours to complete is my guess.
3 hours to do this job is nuts! Im assuming you are sneaking the cover out without taking the valve covers completely off? I find it hard to believe resealing a timing cover can be accomplished in that amount of time.
And you are correct. 2 hours in the minimum before the engine can be turned on using fipg. The job can be done. The car sitting is a different story 🤣🤣. But the valve covers do need to come off as the camshaft and can shaft housing for both banks has to come out to reveal a few bolts for the timing cover. People always strip out the bank 2 bolts.
2016 rx I just bought 7 months ago. Took it to the lexus dealer for my one "complimentary service" and they spotted the leak, 4k quote. I've only driven it 3k miles since I got it. Any advice??
Found this: My 2016 RX with 63K on it developed the same at about 45K. My mechanic cleaned it up on the outside with brake cleaner and applied high temp. silicone over it. I get no oil on the garage floor. He's done this about every 15K. The oil in the timing case is NOT under pressure so it's more of a weep than a leak. Cropdustef is offline
I have an 2010 RX350 with 142,000 miles, i wonder if the Lexus Tech solution will work on a Rx350? I do not know if i have this problem or the oil cooler pipe one or a couple others mentioned as common on youtube . I bought the car because they can run for 300,000 miles if maintained but the fix at Lexus dealers gets expensive like changing spark plugs that was a shock i'm not sure if mine were changed i bought the car from the dealers bargain lot a 1 owner trade in with 136,000 miles a very clean car
I have an 03 S500 . Installed a booster and master cylinder. The o-ring to booster at rear of master had a small gap that tightening wouldn’t close. I sprayed the sealer where it’s bolted to booster and let gravity pull it down around both sides . Turned on car to create vacuum leak that was throwing a lean code. Literally within a minute and a half the hiss was completely gone . Cleared the code and it hasn’t returned. Did it make a mess ? Not really you stop spraying once the flow meets at bottom and that falls to the ground or outta site so I’m very satisfied . Alternative was complete master cylinder removal bleeding brakes and all the other fun with that . Yes it’s a Benz … I’ve had it 5 years 189k one strut , a brake booster , master cylinder , brake hoses , shoes and fluid is the only maintenance I’ve had on it since purchase . It can stand a lil shade tree wrenching , don’t judge me … lol hope this info helps someone that was wondering if this would actually work. It dries slow but it’s there when it’s dry… good luck
I had the same problem on an 07 ES 350 front wheel drive and it was leaking from the seam where the timing chain cover bolts to the engine by the VVT oil line. I talked to a shop and the dealer and it's about a $1500 job. I spent $19 and got the leak fixed. I applied about 6 coats and done deal.
Thanks for this. I just received the can of permatex and going to attempt this today. Already replaced the lower washer on the banjo bolt and the upper Washers. Cleaned up the gasket on the timing inspection cover as well since I had it apart to clean the area
This leak is common on the 1GR and 2GR motors. The leak happens where the cylinder head, cylinder block and timing cover meet. The service manual specifically calls for extra sealant in that area where all three of the named components meet. I recently installed an 1GR-FE into my 05 Tundra. My old motor and the replacement donor motor both had this leak. I installed new timing chain and components and redid the seal and it is still leaking. I’m gonna try this product out. My leak is only barely weeping and God willing can be fixed still. Thanks for the video
Great video, going to be doing this job very soon on mine. The current leak is messy, but not absolutely horrible. The leaking oil is coming from the same area, and tends to go all over that side of the block. I dont have any oil drips in my driveway however. So i guess most of oil gets scattered around the road as i drive. My hope is that the Permatex at the very least slows down the leak. Not looking for perfection. Im planning on selling the vehicle soon. So at least for the next owner, they'll stand a chance of not dealing with a huge oil leak problem. But besides the oil leak, the engine runs like a top. Too bad these engines suffer from what seems like an easy fix if they would just use something proper to seal the timing cover. Or at least redesign it so the problem area isn't such.
Thanks, and totally agreed about the leak. Its a massive job to fix it properly. The reason you probably wont see the leak on the ground is the undertray on the lexus has an almost sponge like material on the top side of it which absorbs leaks. When I pressure washed mine after eventually fixing the leak a ton of dirt and oil came out. I'm not sure if you checked out the follow up video yet but I unfortunately wouldn't recommend this product for fixing this leak as it failed again relatively quickly. What did work and held up for years recently until I sold the car was potting the area with Permatex "the right stuff" RTV. The area where the leak is coming from is a bit recessed, so I cleaned it up with brake cleaner as best I could, filled in the recess with the RTV and gave it as much time as I could to let it cure. And it held up fantastic over time. Hope this helps.
TO EVERYONE ASKING WHY TOYOTA WANTS TO PULL THE ENGINE TO DO THE JOB! the timing cover isnt a hard job to do, but to remove the cover, you have to remove the *upper oil pan* because some timing cover bolts are under there. To remove the upper oil pan, you can either remove the engine and have ease of acces to that upper oil pan or hoist the engine up a bit, remove the pan, still wont have enough room to pull that masive pan out, but it will atleast be disconnected so u can take the timing cover off. After all this, you will realize that toyota doesnt use gaskets for these pans and covers, but silicone sealer. To clean offl and reseal the upper oil pan while it is sitting inches away from ur engine (because you cant fish it out from under the subframe) will be extremely difficult and has high probability of leaking once all installed. TOYOTS/LEXUS KNOW WHY THEY PULL THE MOTOR, SO THE CAR DOESNT COME BACK A WEEK LATER WITH ANOTHER LEAK. thank and hope this helps you guys out
@russelljekina6416 its not a manufacturer problem. 70 thousand miles is nothing lol. AND MECHANIC shops will always be open as long as we have cars my friend
@russelljekina6416 you do have to take the engine out, because the upper oil pan has to come off to get the bolts for the timing chain cover and it doesnt fit through the subframe, plus you cant make a good seal when u put it back on if the engine is still in the car. The job requires around 20 hours of labor. In my area average labor hour for mechanic are 100 to 200 dollars. With parts it can be between 2000 and 4000 dollars depending on the mechanic. If he does a good job, it wont ever have to be touched again but if he doesnt put enough silicone, maybe a couple years max
Haven't taken it apart quite yet to check properly, not really putting the same milage on the car as I would in more typical years. I'll pin a comment once I do, or perhaps do a follow up video depending on what I find.
@@rezarezaei2642 it unfortunately didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I'm going to post up a short video of what happened with it but the tldr is the oil forced its way under the sealant.
AT 205 is for o-rings and tension seals like your valve stem seals and those around spinning shafts like your crank and cam seals. It may work on other runner seals as well, but will do nothing to reseal RTV. It works by adding plasticizers back into the dried seals so they soften and swell and do their job again.
lol I work in Svc bdc and have 3 2GR powered vehicles and they newest one with the lowest miles my 21 IS350 dynamic handling is leaking oil at 25,000 miles and they won’t fix it until it gets worse….
Thats pretty frustrating. I'd definitely ride them hard on that and contact lexus corporate or you're going to get stuck with an awful bill after warranty.
@islamicwaylive no, the spray sealant ended up failing by the next oil change. See the follow up video. What ended up working was potting the recess where the oil leak was coming from with RTV
Unfortunately it didn't last. Please see the following up video linked in the video description. What did end up working and has held for 8 months so far was potting the area using black permatex "the right stuff". The shape of the head and block around the area made it relatively easy to do.
@@Canuckrz Is the right stuff still holding up...did you remove the banjo bolt or did you just follow the seam from factory with the right stuff? Did you remove any of the factory sealant or just go around and over top of what was already there? Thx in advance
@Jason Sims there was no factory sealant to remove on the outside on my block. If you look at the area the leak is coming from there will be basically a pocket and I potted the whole recess. It's been holding up for me since I did it.
Lexus tech here who is apart of the dealer's shop foreman team. Go back and look at your pictures of the bolt. I believe the first one or two pics. Really study that one. I saw the leak in 2 seconds. Not even a common place like at all to have the leak. Only saw it a dozen or so times over the years. If you still can't find it i will help you. Finally don't use this junk. Tear down the engine and do it right. Just take the bumper radiator condensor fans and a few other sheet metal sections then you have easy quick access to the whole front of the engine. Literally because I've ti!Ed myself and other techs over the decade of this IS I have been working on them it takes 3 hours to do. So!eti!es 2 hours and 50 minutes of you don't lose or drop a bolt and have to find it lol.
So at your dealership you guys were not dropping the engine as per the TSIB EG001-07? Also the TSB also states to replace the camshaft housing sub assemblies, is that also necessary or is it just a reseal that needs to be done? Also the permatex sealant ended up failing over time, though not quite in the way I expected. I recorded an update on it the other day but I haven't had a chance to update it yet unfortunately life has been hectic lately. I'll try and get it up shortly and link that one to this one properly.
I've yet to come across a proper guide for the whole task, all I've found is people who managed to get it done under extended warranty, or they were given the $3000 flat rate fee and said no thanks. Without asking you to go too in depth, how much of the motor needs to come apart to address this properly? And what parts are actually needed? The TSIB specs a whole upper engine gasket set complete with head gaskets, the aforementioned camshaft housings, along with what appears to be replacing all the timing cover bolts with a new part number. Its sounding like one of those situations where the TSIB doesn't reflect how the repair is actually done.
Thanks in advance.
@@Canuckrz Where are you located? Also, no the motor we do not drop. Well at least me and my team. We are under the supervision of the shop foreman so we have different ways and more experience to go about things. We always just remove or now supervise techs in just removing the the front of the vehicle as it is much quicker for and cheaper for the customer. Idk if you can send a pm on here but if you can please find a way to send me the year or the vin and we can go from there. If you don't want to do it yourself and no all those gaskets except for three in the camshaft assemble need replaced as the old design caused breaking of gaskets causing the bearing cap oil galleys to clog thus no oil pressure for the cams leading to well I'm sure you can guess lol. Other than that no don't replace all those gaskets unless you see physically an issue or you have the old design of those camshaft assemble gaskets. For me 3 hour job. For most tech at my dealer 4.5 to 5. basic diy don't attempt. experienced diy 3 to 5 hours to complete is my guess.
3 hours to do this job is nuts! Im assuming you are sneaking the cover out without taking the valve covers completely off? I find it hard to believe resealing a timing cover can be accomplished in that amount of time.
And you are correct. 2 hours in the minimum before the engine can be turned on using fipg. The job can be done. The car sitting is a different story 🤣🤣. But the valve covers do need to come off as the camshaft and can shaft housing for both banks has to come out to reveal a few bolts for the timing cover. People always strip out the bank 2 bolts.
What would you say to adding some AT-205 to the engine oil?
2016 rx I just bought 7 months ago. Took it to the lexus dealer for my one "complimentary service" and they spotted the leak, 4k quote. I've only driven it 3k miles since I got it. Any advice??
Found this: My 2016 RX with 63K on it developed the same at about 45K. My mechanic cleaned it up on the outside with brake cleaner and applied high temp. silicone over it. I get no oil on the garage floor. He's done this about every 15K. The oil in the timing case is NOT under pressure so it's more of a weep than a leak.
Cropdustef is offline
I have an 2010 RX350 with 142,000 miles, i wonder if the Lexus Tech solution will work on a Rx350? I do not know if i have this problem or the oil cooler pipe one or a couple others mentioned as common on youtube . I bought the car because they can run for 300,000 miles if maintained
but the fix at Lexus dealers gets expensive like changing spark plugs that was a shock i'm not sure if mine were changed i bought the car from the dealers bargain lot
a 1 owner trade in with 136,000 miles a very clean car
I have an 03 S500 . Installed a booster and master cylinder. The o-ring to booster at rear of master had a small gap that tightening wouldn’t close. I sprayed the sealer where it’s bolted to booster and let gravity pull it down around both sides . Turned on car to create vacuum leak that was throwing a lean code. Literally within a minute and a half the hiss was completely gone . Cleared the code and it hasn’t returned. Did it make a mess ? Not really you stop spraying once the flow meets at bottom and that falls to the ground or outta site so I’m very satisfied . Alternative was complete master cylinder removal bleeding brakes and all the other fun with that . Yes it’s a Benz … I’ve had it 5 years 189k one strut , a brake booster , master cylinder , brake hoses , shoes and fluid is the only maintenance I’ve had on it since purchase . It can stand a lil shade tree wrenching , don’t judge me … lol hope this info helps someone that was wondering if this would actually work. It dries slow but it’s there when it’s dry… good luck
I had the same problem on an 07 ES 350 front wheel drive and it was leaking from the seam where the timing chain cover bolts to the engine by the VVT oil line. I talked to a shop and the dealer and it's about a $1500 job. I spent $19 and got the leak fixed. I applied about 6 coats and done deal.
What coats did you use?
Same stuff as he used?
@@MrAmirOlmos fur coats
I've got the same issue with my 07 es350. I'm having a hard time pinpointing where I should apply the sealant
Thanks for this. I just received the can of permatex and going to attempt this today. Already replaced the lower washer on the banjo bolt and the upper Washers. Cleaned up the gasket on the timing inspection cover as well since I had it apart to clean the area
This leak is common on the 1GR and 2GR motors. The leak happens where the cylinder head, cylinder block and timing cover meet. The service manual specifically calls for extra sealant in that area where all three of the named components meet. I recently installed an 1GR-FE into my 05 Tundra. My old motor and the replacement donor motor both had this leak. I installed new timing chain and components and redid the seal and it is still leaking. I’m gonna try this product out. My leak is only barely weeping and God willing can be fixed still. Thanks for the video
Great video, going to be doing this job very soon on mine. The current leak is messy, but not absolutely horrible. The leaking oil is coming from the same area, and tends to go all over that side of the block. I dont have any oil drips in my driveway however. So i guess most of oil gets scattered around the road as i drive. My hope is that the Permatex at the very least slows down the leak. Not looking for perfection. Im planning on selling the vehicle soon. So at least for the next owner, they'll stand a chance of not dealing with a huge oil leak problem. But besides the oil leak, the engine runs like a top. Too bad these engines suffer from what seems like an easy fix if they would just use something proper to seal the timing cover. Or at least redesign it so the problem area isn't such.
Thanks, and totally agreed about the leak. Its a massive job to fix it properly. The reason you probably wont see the leak on the ground is the undertray on the lexus has an almost sponge like material on the top side of it which absorbs leaks. When I pressure washed mine after eventually fixing the leak a ton of dirt and oil came out.
I'm not sure if you checked out the follow up video yet but I unfortunately wouldn't recommend this product for fixing this leak as it failed again relatively quickly. What did work and held up for years recently until I sold the car was potting the area with Permatex "the right stuff" RTV.
The area where the leak is coming from is a bit recessed, so I cleaned it up with brake cleaner as best I could, filled in the recess with the RTV and gave it as much time as I could to let it cure. And it held up fantastic over time.
Hope this helps.
@@Canuckrz thanks for the added suggestion, will definitely go that route instead!
TO EVERYONE ASKING WHY TOYOTA WANTS TO PULL THE ENGINE TO DO THE JOB! the timing cover isnt a hard job to do, but to remove the cover, you have to remove the *upper oil pan* because some timing cover bolts are under there. To remove the upper oil pan, you can either remove the engine and have ease of acces to that upper oil pan or hoist the engine up a bit, remove the pan, still wont have enough room to pull that masive pan out, but it will atleast be disconnected so u can take the timing cover off. After all this, you will realize that toyota doesnt use gaskets for these pans and covers, but silicone sealer. To clean offl and reseal the upper oil pan while it is sitting inches away from ur engine (because you cant fish it out from under the subframe) will be extremely difficult and has high probability of leaking once all installed. TOYOTS/LEXUS KNOW WHY THEY PULL THE MOTOR, SO THE CAR DOESNT COME BACK A WEEK LATER WITH ANOTHER LEAK. thank and hope this helps you guys out
only have 70,000 on my 2013 highlander this is a manufacture problem and car shops need to stay in business?????
@russelljekina6416 its not a manufacturer problem. 70 thousand miles is nothing lol. AND MECHANIC shops will always be open as long as we have cars my friend
@@adamdistortion8810 how much do you think they charge for sound like this?
I was told you have to take the engine out on a RUclips video. What is something like this cost thank you 2013 highlander
@russelljekina6416 you do have to take the engine out, because the upper oil pan has to come off to get the bolts for the timing chain cover and it doesnt fit through the subframe, plus you cant make a good seal when u put it back on if the engine is still in the car. The job requires around 20 hours of labor. In my area average labor hour for mechanic are 100 to 200 dollars. With parts it can be between 2000 and 4000 dollars depending on the mechanic. If he does a good job, it wont ever have to be touched again but if he doesnt put enough silicone, maybe a couple years max
I would use marine jb weld clean the area really good finish off with primer and i would poke and putty the whole seem
How did it work later on?
Haven't taken it apart quite yet to check properly, not really putting the same milage on the car as I would in more typical years. I'll pin a comment once I do, or perhaps do a follow up video depending on what I find.
@@Canuckrz any update mate?
@@rezarezaei2642 Not yet, I'll be putting it up on jackstands in the coming month to do the brakes so I'll be able to check it out properly then.
@@rezarezaei2642 it unfortunately didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I'm going to post up a short video of what happened with it but the tldr is the oil forced its way under the sealant.
I would first spray the area with a good spray 'degreaser' to remove all of the oil film, and then spray on the Permatex.
I would’ve tried to use AT-205 reseal like Scotty Kilmer always suggest.
AT 205 is for o-rings and tension seals like your valve stem seals and those around spinning shafts like your crank and cam seals. It may work on other runner seals as well, but will do nothing to reseal RTV. It works by adding plasticizers back into the dried seals so they soften and swell and do their job again.
lol I work in Svc bdc and have 3 2GR powered vehicles and they newest one with the lowest miles my 21 IS350 dynamic handling is leaking oil at 25,000 miles and they won’t fix it until it gets worse….
Thats pretty frustrating. I'd definitely ride them hard on that and contact lexus corporate or you're going to get stuck with an awful bill after warranty.
Just got the same leak. Same spot..
Its a common problem unfortunately. At least it didn't happen on the drivers side where you have to work around the compressor and alternator.
Is the fix still working sir@@Canuckrz
@islamicwaylive no, the spray sealant ended up failing by the next oil change. See the follow up video. What ended up working was potting the recess where the oil leak was coming from with RTV
I have this same engine and the same leak at the same spot, can someone please tell me how to fix.
Did it work?
Unfortunately it didn't last. Please see the following up video linked in the video description. What did end up working and has held for 8 months so far was potting the area using black permatex "the right stuff". The shape of the head and block around the area made it relatively easy to do.
@@Canuckrz Is the right stuff still holding up...did you remove the banjo bolt or did you just follow the seam from factory with the right stuff? Did you remove any of the factory sealant or just go around and over top of what was already there? Thx in advance
@Jason Sims there was no factory sealant to remove on the outside on my block. If you look at the area the leak is coming from there will be basically a pocket and I potted the whole recess. It's been holding up for me since I did it.
@@Canuckrz I still have the issue imean do u use the spray like once a year or some lol
Uhhhh. No. Do do this lol.
All these lexus have this issue. If your leak is minor. Take the car to 300k and get rid of it. Some of these cars leak slowly for years