Complete machining of camera case back - includes high-speed shots
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Complete machining of the back cover of the Chronos 1.4 high-speed camera. Includes high-speed shots at 1500 and 6000fps taken on camera these parts are for
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A cup of coffee and this video is pure wellness. Thank you!
I started watching your videos about 5 years ago (when I was still in school), with your electric car build. I have loved your tear down videos and projects! I just don't know why your not more popular!!!
This is beauty!
I came here from Ben's Applied Science channel.
Now I have to have a camera and become a patron supporter too!
Thank You
Too cool! Really enjoyed the high speed shots of the helical entry!
Congrats and best of luck to you!
Old tree journeyman 325! I have the same machine and love it, running a nes or pacman era cnc machine and getting the results you can from them is pretty freaking awesome if you ask me! And those servo amps singing while you're machining and the old amber crt monitor! IDK it just takes you back to the good ole days!
Great video. Nice looking chips.
Nice high-speed shots. I am also planing to film some milling and turning with the Chronos 1.4 when I get more lights. I ordered couple purpose built high speed filming led panels to help with the higher frame rates.
I have used the camera on almost every video that I have filmed lately, it so easy to use that I have it always running in case something interesting happens :D
Odd that the shot from 4:25 to 5:14 shows the endmill is only cutting with one flute.
please add a little music to the slo-mo scenes, would make it way more intresting
WOW U ARE A tru inspiration for anybody!!! Where do I sighn up for free slo mo cam =) My birthday is in 29 Jan haha
If woukd have afford this Amazing technology from u i really would buy one from you!
Keep upp the good work and "Life has no limits"
Yours truly Christian from Sweden
You need to make your own mini-foundry and melt those chips down - probably have enough to make another 2-3 cameras from them!
Satisfactory video
I couldn't tell from the video but is there gonna be a seal around the
vise so the air don't blow lube and crap onto it?
What on earth is that weird milky stuff used as lube in the 2nd half? Also, does it just drip down on the floor or a drip tray below, or else do you have something that pumps it back up to go through again?
Usually a mixture of water and oil. Many machines have a catch underneath that recaptures the coolant and filters it to be reused.
Torgo Torgo It's called flood coolant. not it doesn't drip onto the floor, and yes it is recirculated.
Why would it be allowed to flood the floor? :-/ bit of a silly question, LOL.
wow! Why would you want a find mist of lube? Is that to reduce/eliminate splatter? I would also assume it helps with blowing away chips. And have you ever considered melting down the chips? You seem to have stock piled a awful lot there.
Awesome!
Did you think about casting the Camera Bodys? If you made a Mold and a simple Furnace, you'd only have to Machine the Details and it's probably going to look even cooler with the Body having a Cast Texture.
dave1812 That's near impossible without an injection molding machine. Those are very expensive, and need to run 24/7 to be efficient. that way the Al doesn't solidify inside it, and you don't have to wait for 50k lbs of steel to heat up while it warms up, and you don't have to clean it after you make a few parts. They're only good for continuous production. not for the very limited production this guy needs. casting with gravity would not work. It would turn out looking like shit. Contracting them out to be casted isn't a bad idea though.
Here from Cody's Lab
Excellent, could you please tell me the RPM, feed rate, depth of cut, type of tool, those data for such a good way of machining or a page where I can learn about that. Thank you
The chromatic aberration is quite heavy. If you'd get a better lens you'd be able to get sharper video and get rid of that chromatic aberration. The lens mount is micro 4/3 I guess? Will focus peaking be a feature if possible?
Yeah I've seen his video too. But at the date I wrote this comment, this wasn't clear
How hard is it to keep registration from one side to the other?
Not too hard, the second operation is has the zero based on fully machined surfaces from the first operation, in this case, X on the side face of the case, Y on the vise jaw, and z on the parallels the part sits on in the vise. The most error seems to be be caused by the vise jaw bending away about 0.003" when it's clamped under pressure, so I zero it with the vise clamped on a scrap piece and try to torque the vise handle the same each time.
Anyone know any good videos on this topic?
tesla500 have you considered making an alignment jig?
Are the cut of chips of metal thrown away or can they be recycled ? Thank you.
They're recycled. You don't get much for them though, 10c per pound, where normal aluminum is about 60c/pound.
Will the final version of the camera include audio recording?
Yes
Thumbs up :)
Add an O-ring maybe?
So how come high speed cameras don't have super high sample rate microphone inputs? 192khz slowed down 1000 times is 192hz.. Maybe use a DSO that lets you save waveforms, and see what it sounds like slowed down and pitched up
I'm doing 96kHz on this one, but the Codec still has an internal bandwidth limit of 20kHz which is annoying.
Any idea what the chipload was on the roughing pass with the what looks like 1/2" 4F tool? It looks super light, but I'm used to 1/2" 3F tools running 600IPM through 6061.
That was a 3/4" 4fl tool, chip load was 0.002". I was doing 0.003" before for the pocketing but had it clog up with aluminum and break so had to back off. Probably would be a lot better with flood coolant but the large cutter flings it everywhere and makes a huge mess. I really need an enclosure on the machine.
.002" chipload is a finish pass if you're trying to hold 32RA (uIN). Generally you're better off running the most chipload you can get away with before the tool breaks, especially if you're running HSM toolpaths, since your actual chipload is going to be less than programmed. Although a 4F tool is going to clog up something fierce in aluminum. You need to run a 2F, or 3F if you can guarantee the radial engagement stays low. I would go to a 1/2" 2F tool, something with a tiny edge radius if you can tolerate it. The Lakeshore Carbide tools are nice. You want to rough at .006" chipload per tooth or more on a 1/2" tool, at least .008" on a 3/4. If evacuation is good, you can probably do .02" per tooth with small engagement HSM toolpaths. I've run a 2F 1/2" Lakeshore EM at .026" per tooth and 40% engagement all day. Then back that up with a ~0.01-0.02 WOC finish pass at ~0.002" per tooth. Your machine appears to be rigid enough. You ideally want to leave a bit of meat on the part for the finish pass, you often get a worse finish if you try to goo to slow with too little left. And you run into chipweld problems with 6061 if you run tiny little chiploads. Run huge chiploads and low SFPM to give the chips more time to clear.
Tesla-"I was doing 0.003" before for the pocketing but had it clog up with aluminum and break so had to back off."
Frank-"Generally you're better off running the most chipload you can get away with before the tool breaks,"
but your absolutely correct Frank, his problem is the 4F tool and no flood. Frank, if I may ask are you still talking about HSS when you said .026" IPT? Lakeshore tools are awesome, but I cant say I've ever achieved that kind of load with a high speed tool myself even with 2F, flood, and rigidity. That's impressive to me, but I'm just a green home gammer and my Fadal probably wouldn't even go fast enough to get that. LOL
I don't run HSS for anything other than oddball tools that don't get used much. But I'm used to doing prototyping for production work, so I want to run the exact tools we would run in production to get it dialed in before handing it off to an operator. As a homegamer, HSS is probably fine, but carbide isn't that expensive as long as you don't need that many tools. The small EM's are cheap enough that I wouldn't bother with HSS, and you probably only need something like one 1/2" EM. I've put >30HP through a 1/2" carbide EM in 6061. Generally, you're not going to need bigger than 1/2" unless you want high productivity with a lot of stickout or LOC.
I know why you are using HSS tool bits :-)