DIY Solar Water Heater, Part 1 Pool Water Heater, Off Grid Shower and Boils Water
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- Finally! A DIY Solar Water Heater that Works! Learn How To Make a DIY Solar Water Heater that can be used for Pool Water Heater, Off Grid Shower, Boil Water, and much more. Made with 110 feet of Copper and Aluminum Solar Collectors as it’s major heating source.
Metal frame made out of roof edging and aluminum flashing with multiwall Polycarbonate to trap in the heat, a perfect combination for any solar collector.
We welcome your thoughts and comments on how to improve our designs like our next build using those copper manifolds and Pex tubing, please feel free to share your ideas.
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Part 1 - • DIY Solar Water Heater...
Part 2 The Build- • Solar Water Heater, Pa...
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Items we used on building the Solar Water Heater,
Solar fins………………………..amzn.to/3iYdURL (Amazon)
Thermal grease….…………amzn.to/3x5IJJr (Amazon)
Seamer off set……………….amzn.to/3rH22HZ (Amazon)
Stainless steel screw……amzn.to/3l7P3O0 (Amazon)
Aluminum, tape …………….amzn.to/3ycYVtI (Amazon)
Weather stripping………….amzn.to/37bEyAY (Amazon)
Street elbow……….……..….amzn.to/2VketwV (Amazon)
Self-Etching Primer………..amzn.to/3f9daIl (Amazon)
Flat black paint………………amzn.to/3l6KWSp (Amazon)
Gas fitting…………….…………amzn.to/3BTFA31 (Amazon)
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Great video. Thank you for posting this!!!
Hat off to you, this design is way better then what i was thinking. Awesome!!
This is incredible!
Nice setup! What is the temp after the water has been flowing through the collector for 30 min? What was the temperature rise. I like your use of the aluminum heat transfer pieces. If you make another heater there is something called 180 degree copper return that is a continuous half circle copper pipe that would save some soldering for you.
I am building a solar heater right now using a 100 foot continuous roll of 1/2" soft copper tubing that will be in a spiral shape that easily fits in a 1 meter(39.37) square box with 1" spacing between each concentric spiral. By using soft copper it saves a ton of time by not having to soldering tons of copper fittings and eliminates the chance of leaks. I am building my box from 2.25" thick high R value foil backed polyisocyanurate ridged foam insulation so it will be light and keep the maximum heat transferring to the copper vs the box. I am going to use a copper absorber sheet soldered to the back side of the coil. I am considering adding an extra 100 foot coil as the box only has to be 57" sq to double the collection area. Then there will be a tempered glass front.
Awesome setup, but pricey.
I wonder how much less heat it would be putting aluminum over pex or vinyl tubing. Obviously you need to stay under about 180 degrees then, but you should be if using it for best efficiency.
How much benefit do you think is added from the aluminum fins compared to just copper by itself?
Did it turn the pool green?
What was your estimated cost for this panel? I haven't even added up all the cost for all the supplies yet but just the copper, polycarbonate sheet, and fins alone is $500. Granted some supplies can be used for a second panel but the bulk of the cost is in copper. Pex should reduce cost substantially but then you have the copper manifolds which also adds quite a bit to the cost so I would probably just opt for brass tee inserts instead. Be interesting to see the 3rd build with the pex...
Hi, how much would you charge to build me this exact one for me? Including shipping cause I live in CA 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
It's nice but chlorine and copper are not nice to each other. The copper is going to corrode and you will have copper stains in your pool.
Anyone happen to have any data or experience on how quickly an in-ground pool loses heat naturally to the surroundings? It looks like it would take quite a large solar panel to warm my pool up much in one day, so I'm trying to get a bead on whether any of today's heat gains would still be there "tomorrow" when I could get more sun. Obviously some would be lost, but if there's any significant gain at all during a 24 hour period, then patience becomes a virtue.
Obviously this depends on the outside temperature - just wondering if anyone knows of any tools for this. I tried to google it, but all I could find was links on how to explicitly COOL your pool if it's too warm.
i was thinking about using similar tech for hot water for the house and connecting the heater to a barrel up on my roof. then gravity feed the hot water to my house. do you think this would be able to heat 125L water drum over the course of a day, if i put a little 10 watt pump circulating the water through the system. the pump would be on a solar pannel, so it shuts off automatically at night.
I tried a somewhat similar solar water heater with about a 80 feet copper pipe. But it can only warm about 40 litres of water only up to 40 C in the day. Also it is very much dependent on the outside normal weather or temperature. In January when the outside day time temp goes down to 18 Degrees C then the heater fails almost to make 40 litres warm to a suitable level. I invite all the experts to comment please. Thanks
pls give update on this
What state are you catching the sun in ?
California
Why copper not PVC? Just curious?
You want the heat in the water at the end, so you need for everything to have good thermal conductivity. That's why copper pipe - it conducts the heat extremely well, and you basically use the water to cool it. That's also the reason for those aluminum panels that snap onto the copper - those provide a conduction path for the heat that lands "in between" the copper runs to move quickly to the copper tube and then into the water.
If you think about how this is designed, the sunlight passes through the transparent cover, into an "insulated box." Everything that it can actually hit in there is metal. The black color causes it to be converted efficiently to heat, and the HEAT can't readily pass back through the transparent panel. So now you have your heat in all that metal in there. The only way for it to get out is to move into the water, which flows out of the box and to your pool or whatever it is you're heating.
PVC doesn't conduct heat very well, so the heat would move into the water only very slowly. Meanwhile, the insulation isn't *perfect*, so some is also getting out. Your efficiency would be much lower. Given the performrance of this thing, you could easily cook eggs, vegetables, etc. in it.
I'm interested in building one of these to see how well it can actually heat my pool. It costs a noticeable amount for me to bring my pool up to comfortable swimming temperature if I do it with the system's gas heater - this could save me that. The metal parts are kind of pricey, though.