Good on ya man, clear & clean instructions great vid shooting and very helpful and appreciated thank you. Mabey reckon get some good old school sounds quietly humming I'm the background and sweet as ⚓ cheers ⚓
When they were brand new out of factory you’d get 110 when they are warm. I’ve seen them now that’s it’s Been 20 years or so where anything above 100 the motor will still run fine. And that’s a cold compression test. If it’s drops below 90 then it’s pretty much done for. They still run decent at 90 compression but I’d say the lowest would be 100 and you’d still have many years out if it
My friend, I have the same engine, could you leave me the Amazon link where I can buy that repair kit because I can't find it, I'm from Chile. a hug, thanks for your videos. @@outboardfinatic
Appreciate the feedback. Have a hard time with audio and background noise but I have some things planned to try and make this better. Hopefully in the near future I can release such a video
@@nicholasm2239made sense to me but I'm mechanically inclined so it was easier to understand with out all the talk. Kinda like a book without pictures after the 1st grade.
Mind I ask what spark plugs do you use on this? I have similar engine, but can't confirm the year or model. Also, does the tiler have a throttle control to hold throttle? mine is missing the part which looks like semi circle halfway up tiler shaft. Cheers
Excellent video! Just doing the same on my ‘92 9.9. Redid carb, primer gasket/plunger had holes in it. Now trying to start it to set carb. It will sputter a few seconds, then dies. I saw you tickled and fiddled with it to get it running when cold. Do you have tips for me to coax it to life. Like yours, hasn’t been run for years. Side note. I have the fuel hose, running in to a gas can with the intake spring loaded ball propped open with a nail. Does it need to plugged into a proper fuel tank fitting for it to run properly? Can it siphon gas properly if simply sitting in the fuel can?
Hi there motor can spit and sputter like that if it’s not gutting the proper fuel ratio. It should theoretically still be able to Syphon the gas as long as the hose never comes out and allowing air to get in the lines. I’d recommend you fix that so you can officially eliminate a factor to your running issue.
Hello, do you still have the engine and if so, can you check what the diameter of the rear end of the carburetor is as well as the diameter and height of the little tube that sticks out into the venturi throat? I've got a similar engine with a modified carburetor that refuses to run properly at full throttle and is a nightmare to properly tune (runs too rich, even though I have the idle-mixture quite far in already). Just want to make sure, the throttle body was also modified on my engine and not just the throat.
This is a 2 stroke so there’s no engine oil built into the motor like a 4 stroke has. You premix 2 stroke oil with gas in your tank. 50-1 ratio will do fine. The only oil to change out on these 2 strokes is the lower unit oil or also known as gear lube
I just bought same model and I noticed when forward gear is engaged it’s locked in but only in the proper direction. I can turn it counterclockwise and it feels the gear is riding on the clutch is this normal ? It doesn’t do it in reverse it’s locked both ways ..?
100 percent normal. You do not want to keep spinning it tho counterclockwise while it’s in forward. Could mess something up in the gearcase. Reverse locks in and won’t ratchet. But you can always double check your in forward by seeing if it ratchets one way but DO NOT continusly spin it ratcheting
Go by ear. Set the screw to 1 1/2 and go from there it’s gone be between 1 1/4 turns to 1 3/4 most of the time if everything on the motor is properly hooked up etc
So without the base gasket why will it run poorly? I just rebuilt mine and was going to put back on and noticed no base gasket when I took carb off but kit had one and then I see your video. Maybe lack of base gasket was my problem and the rebuild was a waste other than finding no base gasket????
Dosent seal the carb off with out it on. Making the fuel air ratio off. Would probs suck in too much air and not enough fuel. 100 percent need it for the motor to run correctly
@@outboardfinatic Just mounted the carb with base seal. It didnt have 1 before and could only get 7 mph on a 14ft v hull fishing boat. Never had motor come alive. Taking out tomorrow and I sure hope it runs us up near 15 or so now. Thanks for video and reply.
I am currently working on this exact motor, but trying to revert it from remote control to tiller arm. Can you show the removal and re-installation of the tiller handle?
Possibly I think I may have another motor like this to show it. If your going from remote to tiller tho your probs missing some key components to make it work. Usually tillers have a different set up on the side of the motor to shift and a remote has a different style
@Outboard Finatic That would be really helpful. Also, it looks like it was set up for tiller at one point, but from the Mercury service manual, it's hard to tell what is missing. The tiller has a built-in start/kill switch that I know needs connecting, but I'm not sure how to gearshift/throttle are connected.
@@tubascubasteve that’s the part I was saying would be different. If it’s tiller the run a different side shifter. It’s like a circle kind of that rotates when you twist the handle to shift it. Idk if you can tell I’m the vid or not what I’m talking about
Is the motor actually shifting? If the motor is shifting and it’s still not doing anything then you may have a gearcase issue. There’s a gear in these called the pinion gear in the gear box and they go out a lot on these motors
@@outboardfinatic thanks for the reply. So i checked the cables up the top and turned the handle into each position and it seems to click in the right positions nothing's loose there. The propeller (seems bit loose) when I put it into N- spins both ways. When it's F- it seems to spin left when it goes right it makes a clicking noise, when it's in reverse it turns both ways. Not sure if that helps aswell.
@@MAK3199 that’s all sounds normal. Forward will do that. Just don’t keep spinning it or I could jump out of gear in forward it for spin it when it makes that ratcheting noise. The only thing I can think of is one maybe your hub is spun out of the prop and not allowing any propulsion or maybe your carb butterfly isn’t opening all the way? But to me regardless when you shift it into forward it should start moving your vessel right away. So I’m thinking your having some kind of shifting/throttling issue. Just kinda hard to say without seeing the motor etc
All good. I know a few boat mechanics here in Sydney that might be able to help. At least I have a rough idea of what it could be. Saved the video for reference. 👌
It’ll still work but you’ll need to push it back after choking it. Otherwise the motor will rev tech higher cus that also advances the timing for spark. But motor still should rn fine without it. Just makes it a bit harde
Don’t squeeze the primer ball too much on these motors. Once you just start to feel it get hard on the primer ball your good. It’s not like other outboards where the primer ball gets real hard. Otherwise it’ll just push it right by the needle. But if you have an actual issue then yes your needle isn’t properly seating allowing gas to get by
Muy bueno el video. Tengo el mismo motor. Funcionaba perfecto pero ahora arranca y se para a los pocos segundos. Saque el carburador lo limpie y sigue sin funcionar. Las bujias son nuevas. La verdad ya no se que hacer
Did it shift before you dropped the lower? Best way is to just manually shift it with your ands and see if it shifts. If it doesn’t then you got an issue with the lower unit gears most likely
I don’t have a link as I get most of my parts from the boat marina I work at. The after market part number that I used was a Sierra 18-7212 carb kit. Can pretty much get them anywhere as long as you use that part number. I could get you the oem number as well if you’d rather run oem. Personally haven’t notice a big difference between the two kits
Well it could be many things. Like compression has to be solid and close to even as we all know and solid spark the whole time. Other issues that could do that is reeds sticking open or close. Depending on what the running issue is ofc. Also could be a carb adjustment needed if you cleaned it. Set idle screw to 1 1/2 turns out and work from there. Also could be old gas or a lot of carbon build up in the cylinders. I have a bore scope camera so im able to look in the cylinders and see how they look. A lot of times alit of carbon can cause that issue and may have to run powertune or some other decarbon product’s. And even tho your gauge may say you have good compression. Dosent always mean it’s actually good. If you have a camera sometimes you’ll see a lot of pitting or scoring occurring which can affect how the engines runs regardless if it says you have good compression. Just a couple things off the top of my head that I can think of. Hope this helps!
28:13 Did you have any issues removing the slotted screws on the lower unit to drain and refill the gear oil? What did you use to compress the impeller blades so that you could install the new one. Great video but a bit more narrative would have been helpful as you went through the stages of the rebuild and tuning after total reassembly.
I had to go to a different video because of the loud music. I needed the information, but can't take the audio hammering. I saw your reply to a similar comment that you are on a learning curve. May I suggest no music and your own personal narration of what it is you are doing, step by step. Thanks for listening to constructive criticism.
Make sure the water tube actually inserted. You have to make sure the splines of the lower line up w the splines in the powerhead. You also gotta make sure the shifter makes it all the way up. Then you can spin the flywheel by hand slowly and the splines will line up
@@outboardfinatic it feels like the shaft it going into the power head and when I spin the flywheel it spins the prop but I still have an inch more to go. I can see the water tube is connected properly
Future vids I’ll try and do something for that. Timing dosent really ever go out on these unless something breaks. All the tuning to the carb and adjustments I do by ear once on the water. But I can make a vid going further in depth with that then
Hahah I feel ya. I don’t believe in that stuff happening nowadays so I’m in no fear if that haha. I don’t wanna show my face really in the vids. I always wear a neck scarf for work etc especially when these bigger 2 strokes are really smoking etc. also I feel like it’s kinda different and unique for my channel I usually just wear it around my neck hahah. But for the vids till I get more comfortable Ima just wear it for those reasons only. Thank you for commenting and hope this clears some things up lol
Yea I’ve had that feedback before. I was still new to all the editing and stuff and how it works through RUclips. If you watch some of my newer videos it’s a bit better. I appreciate the feedback I hope I corrected it enough and you check out some of my other vids!!
While it will work fine both ways , Its not a bad idera to put the vent or purge hole on the primer cover facing out, that way if your primer diaphragm with age springs a leak it will easly visable as it will spray out of that hole where you can see it. everybody seems to have diffrent opinions as to what is the proper correct orentation of the new style plastc float when gets re-instaled. Am I being given bad infomation and yes it was ovious he had the float arm on upside down , I have asked 12 people and they all tell me diffrent things , for example , ruclips.net/video/FmRS9AhC5KI/видео.html is his float infomation correct ?
Appreciate the feedback, but don’t be hateful. It’s been a work in progress on the vids and this is one of my earlier vids. Hope you enjoyed it and maybe learned something thanks
Yes I did. The bit about removing the carb without messing with the choke/primer system which is a PITA was good. The "music" volume and choice is super distracting. Glad you're following comments.
@@markkrajcar3729 absolutely it’s been something I’ve been addressing in different vids. Check out some of my more recent ones and lmk what ya think. I want all the recommendations I can get and I learn more from you guys everyday on what you wanna see. In my earlier vids I wasn’t too comfortable talking about what I’m doing while I’m working. It’s kinda hard sometimes to explain stuff while I’m working in a good time frame for the vids and sometimes I feel it’s just better for people to see what I’m doing rather than me trying to explain it. Especially to people who aren’t mechanically inclined. Thx for the feedback and the comments
COMPLETE REBUILD? Carb kit and impeller
I like your work good job
Thanks for the video. Although I couldn't watch the whole thing, music was just too loud, had to keep turning up and down the volume.
Sorry still getting better at editing and figuring out what you guys like most
Good on ya man, clear & clean instructions great vid shooting and very helpful and appreciated thank you. Mabey reckon get some good old school sounds quietly humming I'm the background and sweet as ⚓ cheers ⚓
Been hoping you’d have to replace seals in a lower unit/gearbox. In a small (8-15hp) Mercury
Worried mines all threaded in…
That black squiggly silicon on the power head mounting surface is the gasket.
How do you adjust the timing arm that is attached to the pull choke knob?
Mine doesn’t adjust it
Awesome work!
Really appreciate the comment thank you hope it helped you
How much compression should the cylinder have?
When they were brand new out of factory you’d get 110 when they are warm. I’ve seen them now that’s it’s Been 20 years or so where anything above 100 the motor will still run fine. And that’s a cold compression test. If it’s drops below 90 then it’s pretty much done for. They still run decent at 90 compression but I’d say the lowest would be 100 and you’d still have many years out if it
My friend, I have the same engine, could you leave me the Amazon link where I can buy that repair kit because I can't find it, I'm from Chile. a hug, thanks for your videos.
@@outboardfinatic
Very informative. Perhaps another time you could explain what you are doing in the video and explain why you are doing it a certain way.
Appreciate the feedback. Have a hard time with audio and background noise but I have some things planned to try and make this better. Hopefully in the near future I can release such a video
Great video im always learning from you thanks Chris from OHIO gooooooo Buckeyes
Dead quite no music with a voiceover is how this kind of video should be done.
@@nicholasm2239made sense to me but I'm mechanically inclined so it was easier to understand with out all the talk. Kinda like a book without pictures after the 1st grade.
@@outboardfinaticyou did fine plenty of info. Thanks
Mind I ask what spark plugs do you use on this? I have similar engine, but can't confirm the year or model. Also, does the tiler have a throttle control to hold throttle? mine is missing the part which looks like semi circle halfway up tiler shaft. Cheers
Excellent video!
Just doing the same on my ‘92 9.9. Redid carb, primer gasket/plunger had holes in it. Now trying to start it to set carb. It will sputter a few seconds, then dies. I saw you tickled and fiddled with it to get it running when cold. Do you have tips for me to coax it to life. Like yours, hasn’t been run for years. Side note. I have the fuel hose, running in to a gas can with the intake spring loaded ball propped open with a nail. Does it need to plugged into a proper fuel tank fitting for it to run properly? Can it siphon gas properly if simply sitting in the fuel can?
Hi there motor can spit and sputter like that if it’s not gutting the proper fuel ratio. It should theoretically still be able to Syphon the gas as long as the hose never comes out and allowing air to get in the lines. I’d recommend you fix that so you can officially eliminate a factor to your running issue.
sir, how to change engine oil for mercury 8hp 2 stroke
Where do you sell them??
Hello, do you still have the engine and if so, can you check what the diameter of the rear end of the carburetor is as well as the diameter and height of the little tube that sticks out into the venturi throat? I've got a similar engine with a modified carburetor that refuses to run properly at full throttle and is a nightmare to properly tune (runs too rich, even though I have the idle-mixture quite far in already). Just want to make sure, the throttle body was also modified on my engine and not just the throat.
buen video, saludos de chile!
Hi, I didnt see a drain plug for the engine oil? How do you change the oil on this one?
This is a 2 stroke so there’s no engine oil built into the motor like a 4 stroke has. You premix 2 stroke oil with gas in your tank. 50-1 ratio will do fine. The only oil to change out on these 2 strokes is the lower unit oil or also known as gear lube
I just bought same model and I noticed when forward gear is engaged it’s locked in but only in the proper direction. I can turn it counterclockwise and it feels the gear is riding on the clutch is this normal ? It doesn’t do it in reverse it’s locked both ways ..?
100 percent normal. You do not want to keep spinning it tho counterclockwise while it’s in forward. Could mess something up in the gearcase. Reverse locks in and won’t ratchet. But you can always double check your in forward by seeing if it ratchets one way but DO NOT continusly spin it ratcheting
Kako da podesim lep rad istog motora,zaklonili ste rukom kada ste stelovali smesu goriva i vazduha
Go by ear. Set the screw to 1 1/2 and go from there it’s gone be between 1 1/4 turns to 1 3/4 most of the time if everything on the motor is properly hooked up etc
And where and what king of the carb kit are you using?
Sierra 18-7212 or you can use the same part number and convert it over to oem if you want
So without the base gasket why will it run poorly? I just rebuilt mine and was going to put back on and noticed no base gasket when I took carb off but kit had one and then I see your video. Maybe lack of base gasket was my problem and the rebuild was a waste other than finding no base gasket????
Dosent seal the carb off with out it on. Making the fuel air ratio off. Would probs suck in too much air and not enough fuel. 100 percent need it for the motor to run correctly
@@outboardfinatic Just mounted the carb with base seal. It didnt have 1 before and could only get 7 mph on a 14ft v hull fishing boat. Never had motor come alive. Taking out tomorrow and I sure hope it runs us up near 15 or so now. Thanks for video and reply.
Just checking back with you did this solve your problem?
Just bought a used boat with the 2003 version. Any idea how I can find a users manual? Thx.
Not 100 percent sure. My way id just look through eBay or something and try and find a service manual
I am currently working on this exact motor, but trying to revert it from remote control to tiller arm. Can you show the removal and re-installation of the tiller handle?
Possibly I think I may have another motor like this to show it. If your going from remote to tiller tho your probs missing some key components to make it work. Usually tillers have a different set up on the side of the motor to shift and a remote has a different style
@Outboard Finatic That would be really helpful. Also, it looks like it was set up for tiller at one point, but from the Mercury service manual, it's hard to tell what is missing. The tiller has a built-in start/kill switch that I know needs connecting, but I'm not sure how to gearshift/throttle are connected.
@@tubascubasteve that’s the part I was saying would be different. If it’s tiller the run a different side shifter. It’s like a circle kind of that rotates when you twist the handle to shift it. Idk if you can tell I’m the vid or not what I’m talking about
@@outboardfinatic I did see that. It does appear to be very different. I may be better off just buying another used motor and selling this one.
@@tubascubasteve I’d say that be the easiest rather than dealing with that kind of headache
Have the same motor only problem im having now is the motor will rev but when its in forward or reverse its not moving. Just revs and smokes.
Is the motor actually shifting? If the motor is shifting and it’s still not doing anything then you may have a gearcase issue. There’s a gear in these called the pinion gear in the gear box and they go out a lot on these motors
@@outboardfinatic thanks for the reply. So i checked the cables up the top and turned the handle into each position and it seems to click in the right positions nothing's loose there. The propeller (seems bit loose) when I put it into N- spins both ways. When it's F- it seems to spin left when it goes right it makes a clicking noise, when it's in reverse it turns both ways. Not sure if that helps aswell.
@@MAK3199 that’s all sounds normal. Forward will do that. Just don’t keep spinning it or I could jump out of gear in forward it for spin it when it makes that ratcheting noise. The only thing I can think of is one maybe your hub is spun out of the prop and not allowing any propulsion or maybe your carb butterfly isn’t opening all the way? But to me regardless when you shift it into forward it should start moving your vessel right away. So I’m thinking your having some kind of shifting/throttling issue. Just kinda hard to say without seeing the motor etc
All good. I know a few boat mechanics here in Sydney that might be able to help. At least I have a rough idea of what it could be. Saved the video for reference. 👌
i need a video on changing the seals on the bottom end,
Im missing the spring in my choke thingy in the carb, should that matter? Or will it still run fine just maybe dont choke to get it running?
It’ll still work but you’ll need to push it back after choking it. Otherwise the motor will rev tech higher cus that also advances the timing for spark. But motor still should rn fine without it. Just makes it a bit harde
Can you put a link on the spark tester? Thanks
Wym? Like where I got it from?
Hi. I have a 15M. It pours gasoline out of the carburetor when pumping. Is it the needle or could it be something else?
Don’t squeeze the primer ball too much on these motors. Once you just start to feel it get hard on the primer ball your good. It’s not like other outboards where the primer ball gets real hard. Otherwise it’ll just push it right by the needle. But if you have an actual issue then yes your needle isn’t properly seating allowing gas to get by
Muy bueno el video. Tengo el mismo motor. Funcionaba perfecto pero ahora arranca y se para a los pocos segundos. Saque el carburador lo limpie y sigue sin funcionar. Las bujias son nuevas. La verdad ya no se que hacer
Awesome video, after I did mine, it will not shift into forward or reverse. Any suggestions on what I should check? Thanks. Love the background music!
Did it shift before you dropped the lower? Best way is to just manually shift it with your ands and see if it shifts. If it doesn’t then you got an issue with the lower unit gears most likely
@Outboard Finatic ok, yes it shifted before I replaced the water pump, I'm gonna take it back apart and see if I did something wrong. I appreciate it
Do you have link for the carb rebuild kit? Or did you use oem?
I don’t have a link as I get most of my parts from the boat marina I work at. The after market part number that I used was a Sierra 18-7212 carb kit. Can pretty much get them anywhere as long as you use that part number. I could get you the oem number as well if you’d rather run oem. Personally haven’t notice a big difference between the two kits
I just inherited the same motor…what is the mix ratio? Is it 50:1? I assume yes but figured I would check with you..
Yes
@@outboardfinatic thanks for confirming
@@Scooter101466I use 40:1 to be on the safe side
Having the same start and idle issues on a 15hp I've cleaned up, what did you end up adjusting to get this running?
Well it could be many things. Like compression has to be solid and close to even as we all know and solid spark the whole time. Other issues that could do that is reeds sticking open or close. Depending on what the running issue is ofc. Also could be a carb adjustment needed if you cleaned it. Set idle screw to 1 1/2 turns out and work from there. Also could be old gas or a lot of carbon build up in the cylinders. I have a bore scope camera so im able to look in the cylinders and see how they look. A lot of times alit of carbon can cause that issue and may have to run powertune or some other decarbon product’s. And even tho your gauge may say you have good compression. Dosent always mean it’s actually good. If you have a camera sometimes you’ll see a lot of pitting or scoring occurring which can affect how the engines runs regardless if it says you have good compression. Just a couple things off the top of my head that I can think of. Hope this helps!
28:13 Did you have any issues removing the slotted screws on the lower unit to drain and refill the gear oil? What did you use to compress the impeller blades so that you could install the new one. Great video but a bit more narrative would have been helpful as you went through the stages of the rebuild and tuning after total reassembly.
I had to go to a different video because of the loud music. I needed the information, but can't take the audio hammering. I saw your reply to a similar comment that you are on a learning curve. May I suggest no music and your own personal narration of what it is you are doing, step by step. Thanks for listening to constructive criticism.
Why won’t my lower unit go back in
Make sure the water tube actually inserted. You have to make sure the splines of the lower line up w the splines in the powerhead. You also gotta make sure the shifter makes it all the way up. Then you can spin the flywheel by hand slowly and the splines will line up
@@outboardfinatic it feels like the shaft it going into the power head and when I spin the flywheel it spins the prop but I still have an inch more to go. I can see the water tube is connected properly
@@brayden3327 is the shift shaft jamming up above near the powerhead. It should slide in between where you would’ve removed the pin at the powerhead
@@brayden3327 and just so we’re clear your putting the same lower unit back on that came off the motor originally
Yes all of the original components. The shifting rod is clear and isn’t getting jammed up on anything
I'd like to see someone set the timing on on one of these.
Future vids I’ll try and do something for that. Timing dosent really ever go out on these unless something breaks. All the tuning to the carb and adjustments I do by ear once on the water. But I can make a vid going further in depth with that then
dude your mechanical skills and video was very informative. but the mask got me thinking youre afraid to give yourself bat fever 😅
Hahah I feel ya. I don’t believe in that stuff happening nowadays so I’m in no fear if that haha. I don’t wanna show my face really in the vids. I always wear a neck scarf for work etc especially when these bigger 2 strokes are really smoking etc. also I feel like it’s kinda different and unique for my channel I usually just wear it around my neck hahah. But for the vids till I get more comfortable Ima just wear it for those reasons only. Thank you for commenting and hope this clears some things up lol
"Complete" rebuild. Please!
Good video .. but the music choice (annoying) and volume make it unwatchable unless it's muted.
Yea I’ve had that feedback before. I was still new to all the editing and stuff and how it works through RUclips. If you watch some of my newer videos it’s a bit better. I appreciate the feedback I hope I corrected it enough and you check out some of my other vids!!
Amigo, ese motor tira muy poca agua cuando refrigera. Mi motor tira mas agua continua.
Very good informative video of the carb work but ,,, why do that stupid loud music?? Impossible to concentrate on otherwise a great tutorial.
While it will work fine both ways , Its not a bad idera to put the vent or purge hole on the primer cover facing out, that way if your primer diaphragm with age springs a leak it will easly visable as it will spray out of that hole where you can see it. everybody seems to have diffrent opinions as to what is the proper correct orentation of the new style plastc float when gets re-instaled. Am I being given bad infomation and yes it was ovious he had the float arm on upside down , I have asked 12 people and they all tell me diffrent things , for example , ruclips.net/video/FmRS9AhC5KI/видео.html is his float infomation correct ?
The super loud music is not helpful. Would have preferred if you just gave some helpful narration during the process.
Yea I’ve kinda addressed that in my newer videos. My editing and stuff wasn’t the best but certainly getting better. Thank you for the feedback tho
I like the videos, but i don't the music!!!
You need to be checking thermostats
Appreciate the feedback
Unapred zahvalan
Need some explanation - have no clue what you're doing.
@@d.v.8750 what ya need? Made this video awhile ago so I’ll try and answer any qs you got
lose the awful "music"
Appreciate the feedback, but don’t be hateful. It’s been a work in progress on the vids and this is one of my earlier vids. Hope you enjoyed it and maybe learned something thanks
Yes I did. The bit about removing the carb without messing with the choke/primer system which is a PITA was good. The "music" volume and choice is super distracting. Glad you're following comments.
@@markkrajcar3729 absolutely it’s been something I’ve been addressing in different vids. Check out some of my more recent ones and lmk what ya think. I want all the recommendations I can get and I learn more from you guys everyday on what you wanna see. In my earlier vids I wasn’t too comfortable talking about what I’m doing while I’m working. It’s kinda hard sometimes to explain stuff while I’m working in a good time frame for the vids and sometimes I feel it’s just better for people to see what I’m doing rather than me trying to explain it. Especially to people who aren’t mechanically inclined. Thx for the feedback and the comments