Hi Rik Very good article indeed.Ive just done this conversion on my V6 and managed to get the rear manifold out with the engine still in and leaving the subframe in place
@@nicko98R Get the car quite high plenty of work underneath make things easier.Disconnect your BATTERY! Remove the radiator fans to allow the engine to move forward. Remove offside driveshaft front exhaust section oil filter. Support the engine with a trolley jack and wood.Remove top engine steady. Slacken both front engine mountings. You should be able to move the engine forward and get the manifold out. Take your time slacken all manifold nuts while the engine is fully supported by its mountings leaving some on finger tight. Hope that helps. I managed to do it all in a weekend
handyandy71 thank you so much for your description! A great help when I attempt I’m sure. May I ask why the driveshaft needs to be removed if manifold is removed from above? Cheers
Nils Hult Hi Peter. That’s fantastic, well done. What did you personally need to remove in order to get them out? Did you do it with the subframe on the car? I’m glad you found the video useful 👍🏼
Ricks Garage I had already removed the subframe because i wanted to sandblast and paint it, i also have a Torsen which i’.m about to fit and when the rear manifold is off i might as well remove the starter motor bolts so i can take out the gearbox and do the clutch. Anyway many thanks for your excellet videos. Cheers
I've started tackling this today, not a smooth process by any means. Had to remove radiator fan to get access to the front manifold & 6 studs came out rather than the nuts even after using some penetrating oil 🤣good video for reference though 👍
Brilliant video. Will do a conversion soon from my 156 2.5 cf2 to a 166 3.0 cf2. I believe I have to keep my 156 exhaust, but good to know how things look around there.
Thanks. I’m not confident to do this myself but at least I know what’s involved before / after. Helpful if I take it to a mates garage or to a specialist.
Great video Rick. I suppose its possible to slip out the manifolds from under, on the 147 GTA as well. I dont want to convert to cf2, instead want to chop off the pre-cats. Thoughts?
Very informative …BUT some times u just can’t remove that drive shaft…. The big nut comes off if u have the right socket but the shaft won’t budge…. strip out the whole suspension side and use a press to dislodge the shaft…don’t hit the shaft without putting on the hub nut. I have insulated the ECU instead of modifying the manifolds…easy job…. and with older cars …CHANGE THE RAD. WATER/ANTI FREEZE ,use a cleaning flush… jack car up at front to make bleeding the rad.system easy ….. Eddy…
Ricks Garage Thnx for the fast response! Love your videos , they’re very clear! Maybe a vid about the brembo brake conversion ? Haven’t seen one anywhere. I have a Gtv 2.0 T.S and would like to get brembo brakes too. Keep up the good work. 👌🏼
Impressive, I have also been told similar regarding rear bank CF3 removal. Question is, can the lambda on the rear bank be changed easily? Is a special tool needed? I too have been quoted something absurd to do this. Nice wrk BTW.
Rich Gee unfortunately the heat shield covers the Lambda making it inaccessible. It isn’t the most well thought out design is it! Complete removal may be the only option. I’d get on the phone to a couple of specialist to confirm this.
You can do it in situ. You need a crowsfoot(offset) socket and you'll need to tilt engine forwards by removing the reaction rod and one of the front engine mounts and the fan assembly
Hello! How did you turn off the lambda probes after the catalysts? they also participate in mixture formation. I have alfa romeo 156 3.0 2003. CF3. I would like to get rid of catalysts.
@@АлександрВладиславович-ф8л Only in rare cases should you have issue. It should be fine. My car has since been remapped taking into consideration then the pre-cats have been removed but it was totally fine before. No issue up to now
If you get errors, swap the post manifold lambda sensors connectors. Post manifold is for checking cat operation, so will flag if same as upstream. And yes they are also used to fine tune long term fuel trims
Has anyone done this just by removing the driver's side driveshaft with everything else in situ? As the specialist I've spoken to state it's an engine out and £600+ labour before any parts have been bought...
Thanks for this, its great and really rare information indeed! Also you might look at these Lambda Faker sondes shop.alfisti.net/Tuning-Styling/Alfa-166/Sport-Exhausts/Lambda-Faker-AFR-Faker::6368.html for the problem with the engine light after the removal of the pre-cats.
Very useful Rick - planning to do this to my Spider before long. 👍🏻
Hi Rik Very good article indeed.Ive just done this conversion on my V6 and managed to get the rear manifold out with the engine still in and leaving the subframe in place
handyandy71 excellent work! Well done. Did you need to remove anything out of the way like the driveshaft?
Hello handyandy71. Would you be able to elaborate on your process? I’m just about to do this and would love your advice. Cheers.
@@nicko98R Get the car quite high plenty of work underneath make things easier.Disconnect your BATTERY! Remove the radiator fans to allow the engine to move forward. Remove offside driveshaft front exhaust section oil filter. Support the engine with a trolley jack and wood.Remove top engine steady. Slacken both front engine mountings. You should be able to move the engine forward and get the manifold out. Take your time slacken all manifold nuts while the engine is fully supported by its mountings leaving some on finger tight. Hope that helps. I managed to do it all in a weekend
@@_RicksGarageYes Rik I removed the radiator fans to allow the engine to move forward....driveshaft has to come
handyandy71 thank you so much for your description! A great help when I attempt I’m sure. May I ask why the driveshaft needs to be removed if manifold is removed from above? Cheers
Hi Rick!
Thanks to this video i dared to try to remove my cf3 manifolds on my GT 3,2 and it turned out very well.
Many thanks.
Peter
Nils Hult Hi Peter. That’s fantastic, well done. What did you personally need to remove in order to get them out? Did you do it with the subframe on the car? I’m glad you found the video useful 👍🏼
Ricks Garage
I had already removed the subframe because i wanted to sandblast and paint it, i also have a Torsen which i’.m about to fit and when the rear manifold is off i might as well remove the starter motor bolts so i can take out the gearbox and do the clutch.
Anyway many thanks for your excellet videos.
Cheers
I've started tackling this today, not a smooth process by any means. Had to remove radiator fan to get access to the front manifold & 6 studs came out rather than the nuts even after using some penetrating oil 🤣good video for reference though 👍
Brilliant video. Will do a conversion soon from my 156 2.5 cf2 to a 166 3.0 cf2. I believe I have to keep my 156 exhaust, but good to know how things look around there.
Hello, thanks for all your videos, how do tou manage with O2 sensors please On the wizard are they plug and play? Thanks
Superb video again Rick. One of the future jobs planned for my GT.
Hopefully shouldn't be much difference from your GTV versions. 👍🏼
(Rob Davies)
Welsh Alfa Fan thank you Sir 👍🏼. Yes it should be pretty much the same
Thanks. I’m not confident to do this myself but at least I know what’s involved before / after. Helpful if I take it to a mates garage or to a specialist.
Great video Rick. I suppose its possible to slip out the manifolds from under, on the 147 GTA as well. I dont want to convert to cf2, instead want to chop off the pre-cats. Thoughts?
Very informative …BUT some times u just can’t remove that drive shaft…. The big nut comes off if u have the right socket but the shaft won’t budge…. strip out the whole suspension side and use a press to dislodge the shaft…don’t hit the shaft without putting on the hub nut. I have insulated the ECU instead of modifying the manifolds…easy job…. and with older cars …CHANGE THE RAD. WATER/ANTI FREEZE ,use a cleaning flush… jack car up at front to make bleeding the rad.system easy ….. Eddy…
Thank you. Very clear expression and you have good explain the benefits from changing. I have a CF2 Engine:)
Do you have an upcoming video for the audio upgrade related to the door space of an Gtv or spider?
donatello lei I have nothing planned for Audio in the near future but it may be something I will consider once the project is complete
Ricks Garage Thnx for the fast response! Love your videos , they’re very clear! Maybe a vid about the brembo brake conversion ? Haven’t seen one anywhere. I have a Gtv 2.0 T.S and would like to get brembo brakes too. Keep up the good work. 👌🏼
Impressive, I have also been told similar regarding rear bank CF3 removal. Question is, can the lambda on the rear bank be changed easily? Is a special tool needed? I too have been quoted something absurd to do this. Nice wrk BTW.
Rich Gee unfortunately the heat shield covers the Lambda making it inaccessible. It isn’t the most well thought out design is it! Complete removal may be the only option. I’d get on the phone to a couple of specialist to confirm this.
You can do it in situ. You need a crowsfoot(offset) socket and you'll need to tilt engine forwards by removing the reaction rod and one of the front engine mounts and the fan assembly
half an hour ?
Hello! How did you turn off the lambda probes after the catalysts? they also participate in mixture formation. I have alfa romeo 156 3.0 2003. CF3. I would like to get rid of catalysts.
The lambda sensors are still in place. 1 in the front manifold and 1 in the rear downpipe.
@@_RicksGarage but then we get errors on the catalyst. they also need to be programmatically removed.
@@АлександрВладиславович-ф8л Only in rare cases should you have issue. It should be fine. My car has since been remapped taking into consideration then the pre-cats have been removed but it was totally fine before. No issue up to now
If you get errors, swap the post manifold lambda sensors connectors. Post manifold is for checking cat operation, so will flag if same as upstream. And yes they are also used to fine tune long term fuel trims
Has anyone done this just by removing the driver's side driveshaft with everything else in situ? As the specialist I've spoken to state it's an engine out and £600+ labour before any parts have been bought...
dude you can exit from the top.. in 30minutes
Thanks for this, its great and really rare information indeed! Also you might look at these Lambda Faker sondes shop.alfisti.net/Tuning-Styling/Alfa-166/Sport-Exhausts/Lambda-Faker-AFR-Faker::6368.html for the problem with the engine light after the removal of the pre-cats.
Leo M that’s fantastic and much appreciated Sir. I didn’t know about these so thank you 👍🏼👍🏼