I fixed my leaking 3s shocks on both my granite and typhon with blue traxxas orings. Cheap fix, and they haven't leaked since. Once you fix the leaks, Ive got no problem with them. I think they perform really well.
@RC CRAWL Have since upgraded to these as we still kept bending the shock shaft as only 3mm www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BIG-BORE-ALUMINUM-Shock-For-Arrma-1-10-Granite-4x4-3S/283836824767?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 4s shocks are good as 4mm but still suffer from leaking
If these 3s arrmas had droop screws that eliminate the need to use the surgical hose? That could preload them in some. Wish i saw this video before buying these hr bodies, prolines are a nice option but my buddy got a used set and for my own knowledge i looked up what replacement parts were for the prolines and you cant buy the shock shafts for them separately. Yea prolines are way tougher than stock shafts but if you bend one your dishing out alot of money. Im putting these hr bodies on a senton that i hammer laps on a woods track thats actually pretty forgiving so lets see how they hold up. Thanks for the install video!
I agree - but cant find any ready built Typhon 6s shocks in stock, buying the parts separately just doesn't make sense on this rig. cant just swap the shafts as Typhon 6s are 4mm these are 3mm
Great video. Now, when you say fill it with fluid, how full? 3/4 or to the top. I know some will get displaced but just wondering what a "normal " amount should be. To help me know if I'm doing it correctly or if I'm way off.😉..Thanks for the video.
Thanks - i normally fill to the start of the thread inside, as you say any excess will get displaced, so as long as some comes out you are good to go, what you dont want is none coming out, as that means there wasnt enough oil and will be air inside. Hope this helps 👍
I probably cut about 5mm in the end, it was a bit of trail and error - fitting then putting in dry shock to see how it went etc. Yes i did to both front and rear shocks
Really appreciate the video! Quick question, when you screw in the rod to the body is that oring supposed to go inside the body and that metal bottom cap be tightly screwed in all the way to the body where the oring will be inside or are you supposed to tighten up to where the oring is still seen a little bit is my question? Thanks
Hi, I got these on my Kraton 4s, bleeded the right way, but the spring arent able to Up de Truck quickly. Too slow to come back oe Height. Using 40w oil, tried 50 as well. same issue. Even with spring tighten with shock ajustement ring , still same issue. Im about to Buy other springs :( but not sure its the issue. Any clue ?
As long as the motion is smooth when the shocks are together without the spring then all should be ok and its likely the springs being to soft. The only other thing to check is that the arms move freely and are not binding at all (if dirty the arms can start binding)
Bore is the same, its only the case that is being replaced, i will be honest and say we stopped using these as we kept bending the stock shock shafts so now use some ebay specials with 4mm shafts, it wasnt the hot racing cases that caused the shafts to bend, just we bash the granite very hard
Greetings out of curiosity i bought some that for my typhon 3s/4s that white piece is a real pain. Is it hard to get it out when you need to? Haven't forced it in yet cause worried won't be able to get it out to put fluid in when it gets here. Guess the best way is just try to force it down?
Nice video also, and send best wishes bud. Excited to use this but that white piece has me little worried like should I stock up on the replacement pieces on hot racing?
Thanks - yes the white piece is a pain, to be honest the first pair of shocks i did i actually used a piece of sandpaper and turned the white bit in it to make it smaller as evenly as possible. The second set ui did end up forcing it in, its hard but you can still pull it out to put more oil in if needed
@@HardcoreRC thanks yeah I haven't tried the rears yet but that white piece when I brought it up to the black part with the little washer seems like it is just a smidge bigger than it. Was thinking of using a dremel with the sandpaper attachment just lightly take some away
Maybe it's just me but not sure how I feel about the hot racing ones they feel different from stock thought it would be more stiff especially with 60wt losi silicone shock oil maybe when I drive it it'll feel better or maybe need to tighten the things down more on springs
whats the length of the clear tube that you put on the rears? I just picked these hot racing alloy bodies and bought to convert mine. Thanks in advance
@@HardcoreRC just did it. i used the plastic black sleeve that came inside the stock bodies. cut it down to 4mm for the fronts to match the same length as the stocks. I'm doing the rears now
@@HardcoreRC so just about where you have to push the white disk in past the threads- I mean that same spot. They just seem to be super soft. And to get ride highth there's spring slap and I'm driving a low rider.
They are good, but we kept bending the stock shafts with the way we send the cars, we do bash them very hard as you can tell from out video's. so now run these on the Granite and Typhon 3s and they are great with 4mm shafts www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BORE-ALUMINUM-Shock-For-Arrma-1-10-Granite-4x4-3S/283836824767?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I fixed my leaking 3s shocks on both my granite and typhon with blue traxxas orings. Cheap fix, and they haven't leaked since. Once you fix the leaks, Ive got no problem with them. I think they perform really well.
Interesting - i tried many times to stop the leaks with new O rings, but they just kept on leaking
@@HardcoreRC The hot racing bodies do look good. Hopefully they work well for you 😊
@RC CRAWL Have since upgraded to these as we still kept bending the shock shaft as only 3mm www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BIG-BORE-ALUMINUM-Shock-For-Arrma-1-10-Granite-4x4-3S/283836824767?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 4s shocks are good as 4mm but still suffer from leaking
@RC CRAWLWish i had a hardware shop like that near me 👍
@@HardcoreRC I see you have changed shocks to the big bore. Are these a direct fit and what are your thoughts on them?
If these 3s arrmas had droop screws that eliminate the need to use the surgical hose? That could preload them in some. Wish i saw this video before buying these hr bodies, prolines are a nice option but my buddy got a used set and for my own knowledge i looked up what replacement parts were for the prolines and you cant buy the shock shafts for them separately. Yea prolines are way tougher than stock shafts but if you bend one your dishing out alot of money. Im putting these hr bodies on a senton that i hammer laps on a woods track thats actually pretty forgiving so lets see how they hold up. Thanks for the install video!
Good knowledge bro. i will have to check the length of the hot racing shocks i put on my typhon 3s. thanks
norcalrc your welcome 👍🏻
Very helpful cheers. I'm going to use this to shorten the ZD Racing shocks on my Senton 3s
Your welcome - yes it works for all shocks 👍
awesome video! love the granny 😂😂
We all love the Granny 😂👍👍
Great, thanks a million for that. 👍👍 Well done.
No problem 👍
6s typhon shafts, and nero rod ends for the win! ✌✌.. no more silly molded rod ends...😎
I agree - but cant find any ready built Typhon 6s shocks in stock, buying the parts separately just doesn't make sense on this rig. cant just swap the shafts as Typhon 6s are 4mm these are 3mm
@@HardcoreRC ya that's the downfall of the 3s bodies.. 4s bodies are so much more versatile.. toss 6s shafts in them and never have to worry...👍
@@HardcoreRC I'm sure you can drill the sleeves to accept the 4mm shafts.. the orings shouldn't mind.. 👍
Great video. Now, when you say fill it with fluid, how full? 3/4 or to the top. I know some will get displaced but just wondering what a "normal " amount should be. To help me know if I'm doing it correctly or if I'm way off.😉..Thanks for the video.
Thanks - i normally fill to the start of the thread inside, as you say any excess will get displaced, so as long as some comes out you are good to go, what you dont want is none coming out, as that means there wasnt enough oil and will be air inside. Hope this helps 👍
Great video! very helpful. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Just wondering, what length did you cut the pipe? And did you do it for front and rear shocks? Thank you very much for your help. 😊👍
I probably cut about 5mm in the end, it was a bit of trail and error - fitting then putting in dry shock to see how it went etc. Yes i did to both front and rear shocks
@@HardcoreRC That's great, thank you very, very much for your help. Greatly appreciated. You are a legend! 😁👍😁👍
Do you know if they sell replacement O-rings/rebuild kit.? Thanks for the video!!
Im not sure if they do, might be best to look on the Hot racing wsebsite: hot-racing.com/
@@HardcoreRC Aweosme they do! Thank you!
@@miketye2805 More than welcome - thank you for watching and glad i could help 👍
@@HardcoreRC your welcome! Subbed sir! Also happen see they make the alum pivot balls which is huge, Helped out a ton!
Really appreciate the video! Quick question, when you screw in the rod to the body is that oring supposed to go inside the body and that metal bottom cap be tightly screwed in all the way to the body where the oring will be inside or are you supposed to tighten up to where the oring is still seen a little bit is my question? Thanks
Should be screwed all the way in so the o=ring is inside the body or the oil will leak out
@@HardcoreRC Ah I gotya. That's probably why one of mine came loose lol. I'm really happy with their performance tho. Thanks for the video and advice!
@@cwatson42785 Your weclome - hope you enjoy as the Granite is a great car
Hi, I got these on my Kraton 4s, bleeded the right way, but the spring arent able to Up de Truck quickly. Too slow to come back oe Height. Using 40w oil, tried 50 as well. same issue. Even with spring tighten with shock ajustement ring , still same issue. Im about to Buy other springs :( but not sure its the issue. Any clue ?
As long as the motion is smooth when the shocks are together without the spring then all should be ok and its likely the springs being to soft. The only other thing to check is that the arms move freely and are not binding at all (if dirty the arms can start binding)
What do you think about its performance? Is it a bigger bore compared to the original?
Bore is the same, its only the case that is being replaced, i will be honest and say we stopped using these as we kept bending the stock shock shafts so now use some ebay specials with 4mm shafts, it wasnt the hot racing cases that caused the shafts to bend, just we bash the granite very hard
Greetings out of curiosity i bought some that for my typhon 3s/4s that white piece is a real pain. Is it hard to get it out when you need to? Haven't forced it in yet cause worried won't be able to get it out to put fluid in when it gets here. Guess the best way is just try to force it down?
Nice video also, and send best wishes bud. Excited to use this but that white piece has me little worried like should I stock up on the replacement pieces on hot racing?
Thanks - yes the white piece is a pain, to be honest the first pair of shocks i did i actually used a piece of sandpaper and turned the white bit in it to make it smaller as evenly as possible. The second set ui did end up forcing it in, its hard but you can still pull it out to put more oil in if needed
@@HardcoreRC thanks yeah I haven't tried the rears yet but that white piece when I brought it up to the black part with the little washer seems like it is just a smidge bigger than it. Was thinking of using a dremel with the sandpaper attachment just lightly take some away
Maybe it's just me but not sure how I feel about the hot racing ones they feel different from stock thought it would be more stiff especially with 60wt losi silicone shock oil maybe when I drive it it'll feel better or maybe need to tighten the things down more on springs
whats the length of the clear tube that you put on the rears? I just picked these hot racing alloy bodies and bought to convert mine. Thanks in advance
i cut about 10mm in the end - was really trial and error until i was happy with the over all length
@@HardcoreRC I bought theses for my Arrma senton and the fronts come out long also. Need to add the tube.
@@gottarex Its a fairly easy job to, and super easy if you do when changing over to the HR cases.
@@HardcoreRC just did it. i used the plastic black sleeve that came inside the stock bodies. cut it down to 4mm for the fronts to match the same length as the stocks. I'm doing the rears now
Arrma big rock 4x4 s3 is same shock?
Yes all the 3s line up have the same shocks - Typhon, Senton, Granite and Big Rock
How much fluid do u put in?
fill to just above where the thread is on the inside
@@HardcoreRC so just about where you have to push the white disk in past the threads- I mean that same spot. They just seem to be super soft. And to get ride highth there's spring slap and I'm driving a low rider.
@@christopherbowman8396 Yes around that arera, if you put too much in it comes out anyway as you screw the cap back in
Update on these?
They are good, but we kept bending the stock shafts with the way we send the cars, we do bash them very hard as you can tell from out video's. so now run these on the Granite and Typhon 3s and they are great with 4mm shafts www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BORE-ALUMINUM-Shock-For-Arrma-1-10-Granite-4x4-3S/283836824767?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Save yerself and just get some big bores
Already do, have two Losi 5T's, one with a Taylor 40Gt and the other with OBR 34, not like you can send them at the skate park though