Really enjoying your videos, have watched a handful the last few days. I am planning to pull the shafts on my irons and replace them next week. My first ever attempt at any club building/repair. Initially I wasn’t sure I could do it but feel much more confident now. Keep up they great work!
I have a 1950's set of MacGregor's I haven't played in decades. The heads are pinned (as well as glued?) to the steel shafts, which I'd like to replace with lighter-weight graphite shafts, probably a 6 gram weight. (I'm interested in playing these blades again, just for grins.) Do you have a video dealing with removing the pins and replacing shafts on these types of heads??
I cut my teeth learning Club fitting/building with these pin through hosels before the advent of modern glue technology.. I can help you if McGolf cannot. Contact me - toppro@xtra.co.nz
Nice video. Watched it for one reason: over the weekend, I bought a used Odyssey White Hot XG 2-Ball center shaft putter at a garage sale. Came super cheap, because the shaft is all sorts of bent. I'd like to replace it and add the putter to my bag. What would I do differently than what you showed in the video? Thanks!
its a python puller and no longer in production., THe next best I can recommend is the reverse thrust puller from golf mechanix, they are also sold at Golf works
cool thanks i recently bought ping eye2 driver,3,5 but they have either kiddies shafts in or the orginal ones were shortend. i would like to replace them. im in south africa and was told by a local pro that those shafts are no longer available, so im thinking about getting older clubs from that period, pulling the shafts and put them in the ping club heads? blessings Morne
Hey McGolf - I love the videos and thanks for sharing your wisdom. After pulling a graphite shaft and using your knife to scrape off the epoxy and drilling out any epoxy from inside the tip of the shaft, what needs to be done to prep that shaft for a new installation? I know with a new shaft you have to remove the paint and abrade the tip, but wanted to get your advice on prepping a pulled shaft for reuse in a new clubhead. Thanks man!!
Great job again Mr McGolf! Your videos are very helpful to DIYers like myself. 2 questions sir. After you pull the shafts, how do you clean out the epoxy from the inside of the shafts (steel and graphite)? What clubmaking school would you recommend for a beginner? Jim
Jim Hall I normally drill it out. The glue tends to come out easily. By far and away golfworks is a school to attend. And question for you. You you consider taking an online course for club making or club fitting?
McGolf Custom Clubs-I didn’t realize they had online so I’ll have to look into that! Thanks bud. I watched most of your videos but nothing like actually doing it so I’ve started dabbling recently.
Do you ever come across heads that you just can’t seem to break the epoxy? I use the butane torch (thanks to your recommendation) in 10 second intervals and most of the time this works great. I recently tried to pull a Bridgestone forged head from a steel shaft and thought I’d never get the epoxy to break down. I must have hit it with 20 second intervals several times before it finally let go. Do you have any advice for hard to pull heads/shafts?
Tom Donnelly typically the difficult pulls are taper tips or very low end clubs that use ultra strong epoxy. The taper tips once the added heat is applied I give a rap with a hammer. Sometimes under pressure. The other is super heating just to break the bond
not a fan of of the gun just because of the time involved to heat up the club. Too much chance to burn stuff. If its the only thing I have then I would take a slow pace with it.
Robbie 837 some putters like the 2 ball and red ball have ferrules of a sort to cover the transition of an over the hosel construction. Ferrules are more decorative than supportive as was the case in the era of wood shafts and pitch line. It was right about then the Schenectady putter that the transition lost the the ferrule like attribute and never looked back and yes probably due to its lack of force applied
Hi, I enjoyed watching all your videos. Is there a possibility for you to do a video pulling out a graphite shaft from a driver adapter sleeve without damaging any of its adjustable plastic rings so that the entire adapter can be reused ? Appreciate your comment as well if any. Much thanks.
Daniel, The adjustment rings on most adjustable tips are not plastic. The ferrule is however very much plastic. I will look into doing the video Thanks
Сергей Качан there might be a bit of a language barrier, for personal study I do not do that if you have a topic to address send it and I’ll make a video
The butane torch is overkill and you just caused more mess and damage than necessary. You can use a heat gun or high powered hair dryer so you don't have to scrape off melted ferules.
McGolf Custom Clubs you're spreading bad information. You should never run the risk of heating a graphite shaft over 250 degrees. Regardless of what you think you see when it's done you could damage the individual sheets or loosen their bonds. Melting a ferrule and prying it off with a knife is also unnecessary.
Key Lloyd this all assuming the shaft does get to 250. Moving the heat with the butane torch for 30 sec to 45 sec does not get that hot however one must get close due to the temp need to actually break down the epoxy holding the club together. If one was to use a shaft puller a part needs to rest against the top of the hosel requiring the hosel to be removed. Peeling it back is one of many ways to accomplish the task and one used by Clubmakers
You my good sir, are the Eeyore of the do-it-yourself golfing community. For that I applaud you
Really enjoying your videos, have watched a handful the last few days. I am planning to pull the shafts on my irons and replace them next week. My first ever attempt at any club building/repair. Initially I wasn’t sure I could do it but feel much more confident now. Keep up they great work!
Thanks for sharing your immense knowledge. Greatly appreciated and keep up the good work, good luck on the upcoming certification
Love your videos. I came up with the idea to use a modified caulk gun for a shaft puller. Will work up something soon
how does one get brand (titleist, taylormade, srixon etc.) components ? Do the brands give out components for club builders / fitters?
Each company has its own requirements. Some will entertain the idea of components to certain folks. Keep in mind it is a business, money talks
Is it possible to pull the graphite shaft by just twisting like the steel. I just have one to pull and don't want to buy a puller.
Do NOT twist graphite, it will come apart when heated and twisted......got to think about the strands and how it is constructed.
I have a 1950's set of MacGregor's I haven't played in decades. The heads are pinned (as well as glued?) to the steel shafts, which I'd like to replace with lighter-weight graphite shafts, probably a 6 gram weight. (I'm interested in playing these blades again, just for grins.) Do you have a video dealing with removing the pins and replacing shafts on these types of heads??
I cut my teeth learning Club fitting/building with these pin through hosels before the advent of modern glue technology.. I can help you if McGolf cannot. Contact me - toppro@xtra.co.nz
Is that certification organization what used to be the Professional Clubmakers Society???
Nice video. Watched it for one reason: over the weekend, I bought a used Odyssey White Hot XG 2-Ball center shaft putter at a garage sale. Came super cheap, because the shaft is all sorts of bent. I'd like to replace it and add the putter to my bag. What would I do differently than what you showed in the video? Thanks!
How do you deal with removing a shaft from a ping putter, one with a ball bearing in it
In most cases you need to drill a hole on the bottom of the hosel. Then bang it out
Thanks for the reply
@@almclean4835 Better still - cut shaft at at top of hosel then have an engineering workshop arc out both ball bearing remains of shaft...
How do you install a ferrel? I am thinking about building a set of irons
i believe I have shown that in a few club making videos. but it makes for another good in the future
What is the brand name of the machine that you used, where can I buy one
Thanks
Guy
Love your videos very helpful thanks
its a python puller and no longer in production., THe next best I can recommend is the reverse thrust puller from golf mechanix, they are also sold at Golf works
hi , can you show how to pull an old laminate and or persimmon club shaft PLEASE?
I would need one to show you, When it shows up I certainly will. I still have the tools
cool thanks i recently bought ping eye2 driver,3,5 but they have either kiddies shafts in or the orginal ones were shortend. i would like to replace them. im in south africa and was told by a local pro that those shafts are no longer available, so im thinking about getting older clubs from that period, pulling the shafts and put them in the ping club heads? blessings Morne
Great video! You mentioned using a "wavy wheel" to remove the discoloration of the iron hosel after heating. Is that a certain type of buffing wheel?
He loves pullin shaft
Do you need to clean out the old epoxy from the inside of the steel shaft prior to reshafting?
Doc Tim I would. That way no potential for a rattle
How do I remove it from a graphite shaft without a puller? .... Last time I damaged The shaft...
Golfworks used to sell a pry bar that could be used with a bench vise. I still have one, but it doesn't see much use.
Hey McGolf - I love the videos and thanks for sharing your wisdom. After pulling a graphite shaft and using your knife to scrape off the epoxy and drilling out any epoxy from inside the tip of the shaft, what needs to be done to prep that shaft for a new installation? I know with a new shaft you have to remove the paint and abrade the tip, but wanted to get your advice on prepping a pulled shaft for reuse in a new clubhead. Thanks man!!
If you have scraped off the epoxy and exposed the previously abraded tip you are ready to reglue.
McGolf Custom Clubs thank you!
What brand is the shaft puller? Where can I get one? Can’t seem to find it.
Great job again Mr McGolf! Your videos are very helpful to DIYers like myself. 2 questions sir.
After you pull the shafts, how do you clean out the epoxy from the inside of the shafts (steel and graphite)?
What clubmaking school would you recommend for a beginner?
Jim
Jim Hall I normally drill it out. The glue tends to come out easily. By far and away golfworks is a school to attend. And question for you. You you consider taking an online course for club making or club fitting?
McGolf Custom Clubs-I didn’t realize they had online so I’ll have to look into that! Thanks bud. I watched most of your videos but nothing like actually doing it so I’ve started dabbling recently.
Do you ever come across heads that you just can’t seem to break the epoxy? I use the butane torch (thanks to your recommendation) in 10 second intervals and most of the time this works great. I recently tried to pull a Bridgestone forged head from a steel shaft and thought I’d never get the epoxy to break down. I must have hit it with 20 second intervals several times before it finally let go. Do you have any advice for hard to pull heads/shafts?
Tom Donnelly typically the difficult pulls are taper tips or very low end clubs that use ultra strong epoxy. The taper tips once the added heat is applied I give a rap with a hammer. Sometimes under pressure. The other is super heating just to break the bond
This was, in fact, a taper tip. Thanks for your help.
Let's see you pull a graphite shaft from an adjustable ferrule on a driver! David 🚀
got it
Don't downplay the ferrules. On vintage clubs, they are serialized and you'll definitely want to save them if working on a matched set.
How about hot air gun?
not a fan of of the gun just because of the time involved to heat up the club. Too much chance to burn stuff. If its the only thing I have then I would take a slow pace with it.
Loving your videos. I have a question, why does a putter not have a ferrule? Is it simply to do with how fast you swing a club compared to a putter?
Robbie 837 some putters like the 2 ball and red ball have ferrules of a sort to cover the transition of an over the hosel construction. Ferrules are more decorative than supportive as was the case in the era of wood shafts and pitch line. It was right about then the Schenectady putter that the transition lost the the ferrule like attribute and never looked back and yes probably due to its lack of force applied
McGolf Custom Clubs thanks for getting back so quickly. I hope your certification went well.
Hi, I enjoyed watching all your videos. Is there a possibility for you to do a video pulling out a graphite shaft from a driver adapter sleeve without damaging any of its adjustable plastic rings so that the entire adapter can be reused ? Appreciate your comment as well if any. Much thanks.
Daniel, The adjustment rings on most adjustable tips are not plastic. The ferrule is however very much plastic.
I will look into doing the video
Thanks
Thanks Jim. At least I know it's safe to heat up the adapter before doing so now.. Look forward to seeing more videos of yours.
Good day! I want to study it job in Russian) do you help me? 🙄
Сергей Качан there might be a bit of a language barrier, for personal study I do not do that if you have a topic to address send it and I’ll make a video
I tell you time and time again McGolf, 'Don't put your tees in your mouth, you'll knock your teeth out!!'
can you use a hair dryer?
anthony LUCIANO i have yet to hear anyone successfully using a hair dryer. It doesn't generate enough heat.
Yes, you can. I just did it for my Vokey SM5.
Tried this on 4 clubs without success- without a shaft puller it's almost impossible
The butane torch is overkill and you just caused more mess and damage than necessary. You can use a heat gun or high powered hair dryer so you don't have to scrape off melted ferules.
Key Lloyd you can use the heat gun if you all day, it’s a time thing using the butane torch it localized the heat and is not over kill
I think somebody likes doughnuts
Jeff Keim I do. But that cold sore medicine
If you don't want to damage it you need a puller
"Focus you f*ckk"!
Ruined that hybrid for sure.
Key Lloyd you bet, that 30 sec of heat while moving constantly really messed it up NOT!
McGolf Custom Clubs you're spreading bad information. You should never run the risk of heating a graphite shaft over 250 degrees. Regardless of what you think you see when it's done you could damage the individual sheets or loosen their bonds. Melting a ferrule and prying it off with a knife is also unnecessary.
Key Lloyd this all assuming the shaft does get to 250. Moving the heat with the butane torch for 30 sec to 45 sec does not get that hot however one must get close due to the temp need to actually break down the epoxy holding the club together. If one was to use a shaft puller a part needs to rest against the top of the hosel requiring the hosel to be removed. Peeling it back is one of many ways to accomplish the task and one used by Clubmakers