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How to Make an 18th century Gown by yourself with NO pattern
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
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While I've made countless 18th century gowns for myself and others at this point, I've never had to pattern on myself by myself. Considering the most detailed part of the gown is often the back, that creates a very complex problem! But with a ball looming and a new pair of stays to fit over, I had to come up with a system to work through those issues. And along with a couple days of diligent hand sewing, I was able to pattern, fit, and make an 18th century ball gown in time.
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00:00 Design
07:42 Patterning
18:16 Back, Front, First Fitting
23:53 Finishing the Bodice
27:19 Sleeves
33:37 Skirt
36:41 Reveal
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My toxic trait is thinking I could do this despite never having worked up the courage to make an 18th century gown WITH a pattern 😂 your mastery is on full display here.
This has to be my new favorite comment meme- it's always a little *too* accurate
Different projects but same trait for me: "No problem! I'll do this, then this, then that, and I'll be done!".
Well, no, but the planning and dreaming are fun.
lol same
This is definitely NOT a toxic trait!! There is nothing wrong with dreaming of making something above your current skill set, as long as you take the time and make the effort to learn the new skills needed first.
@@hannahstraining7476 This. It´s more the other way around. If you don´t think like this, you will never make it. The part one needs to adjust is expectation. Because something will never turn out like imagined, there always will be problems and inadequacies one is unhappy about. And from nearly 4 years of making 18th century men´s wear now I can tell, this will never go away, because ones mind just changes the goal posts without even really consciously aware of it. When I started it was "It´s so inaccurate, the techniques and the cut are wrong.". Now it is "It´s still so inaccurate, that stitch is not as wide as it is meant to and the buckram interfacing is cut a bit too curved."
I feel projects like this show us how important community was for textile production. Awesome job doing it alone!
omg Jillian eve!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As a recluse I struggle bussed to make my Italian gown, so this video is good reference for when I tackle the cut away one day. Also for anyone doing 16th century dress for the first time DO NOT DO A PURE LINEN BODICE FOR YOUR FIRST TIME! LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE!
Our biggest recommendation for any beginners of any time period is WOOL. Find something that isn't too spongy and it will be your friend!
@@NicoleRudolph thank you both, this is a good tip, I'll keep it in mind ☺
@@NicoleRudolphin that case, would we still want to use linen lining? Or is it better to use something different?
@@naomi.j.m. Always a linen lining! There's very very few examples of anything else until cotton takes over in the 19th c.
@@NicoleRudolph okay, thank you! I've always wanted to make a gown like this (although probably I'd make a more everyday one), I have the american duchess book but seeing you figure out the pattern on video was so helpful!
I’m studying theatrical costuming at uni and I literally just finished a project where we had to figure out and calculate the price of the fabric and notions needed to create this exact dress (1:09)
@nightburststudios2142 - And.....? (Sounds like fun.)
I love the methods here. I don't see stuff like the tape trick of yours in modern drafting tutorials, which is annoying, cause like a lot of really advanced cheat-codes its seems perfectly applicable even for a very amatuer sewist!
I’m always impressed by how you manage to draft garments on yourself
Watching this is incredible! I accidentally sat on my glasses and I couldn't figure out how to bend them back to get them to their somewhat original form. Hahah, so I can't even imagine how hard this would be for a beginner whose never sewn anything, like myself. I am living thru Nicole and other sewers' beautiful dreamy creations! 🤩🥰
Watching you hand sew is so incredibly relaxing. I shouldn't be watching this right now when I'm sleepy. It's just making me want to go back to bed haha
This is gorgeous handiwork and your gown feels like what a historically accurate Belle (from Beauty and the Beast) might have looked like! I hope the ball was fun, because the way the gowns moved in that room is truly the stuff of dreams...
@Turquerina - That roomful of silk swoooshing!
Just found this … recovering from surgery and catching up . Absolutely appreciate your teaching style and look forward to your patterns! Thank you!
Thank you for having proper(?)/manually done subtitles!
I’m just so blown away with your skills. I’ve been sewing clothes for 50 years and am 65. I’ve sewn by hand and think I’m pretty good, but you so far pass me like my a 10 year old novice! I’m making several items and am researching each of your videos and so enjoy the labor! Thank you! Thank you! For taking the time and patience to do your videos! Best to you!
i was actually plannng on getting dressed18th century for my birthday in march. it's the first period i looked into (thanks to Katikut who put the craft on my radar, LBCC Historical who fascinated me and Outlander that made me daydream) but i've gotten quite rusty there and i mever start from a commercial pattern because i'm ~~cheap~~ and i try to go as historical i mix primary sources and tertiary sources as soon as something doesn't feel right
Glorious. Best fabric choice, so regal.
I've been waiting for this video, ever since you said a few months ago, that there will be more 18th century content on your channel. All those years working with this period, and you throuroughness shines through every minute of it. More, more, please have more of 18th century. Thanks.
For Halloween last year I needed something like this, but couldn’t afford/didn’t have the time to buy or make something. So I took a corset, an Autumnal wrap dress that had ruffles at the cuff and hem, and a bunch of plaid flannel fabric that I was going to use to make a quilt. I used a white long sleeve cotton blouse, turned the corset around to mimic the straight top of the 18th C, and whipped the fabric into a temporary floor length skirt. But the part I’m most proud of is the wrap dress - I pinned it at the waist front to imitate a stomacher, used the fabric belt to tie gather it at the center back to make a flounce, and the elbow length ruffled sleeves were just right. It was giving Mary from Hocus Pocus and I was so proud!
I won't be making a 18th century gown - probably ever - but this has so many fitting and drafting tips irregardless of time period. Marvellous!
Bailey has earned herself extra treats and snuggles!
I like your tape method for self fitting. On fitting my first gown last year, I printed the shapes of a gown from PoF that I liked and split and spliced the paper until it fit me. Lots of tape and going back and forth, but I eventually got it. Your method looks like it is a lot easier to manage than that and also takes into account how fabric, unlike paper, stretches in various ways. I’ll try your method on my next gown, so thank you for the video 🤗
That camera measuring tape hack is brilliant
You wear those colours so well! That trick with the tape looks so useful; I think I might try it first for padding out my dress form.
How would you freshen a dress such as this that would never be washed? Historically, how would it be done? I know they wore protective undergarments, but I have been places where people have sweat through many layers.
The linen undergarments do a really great job to start as it evaporates moisture far faster than cotton or synthetics. The lining, being linen as well, is less prone to odor even if it does get dampened. Spot cleaning and dry cleaning are great options beyond that if the gown is out of a fabric that can't be submerged in water. I have gently soaked linen and wool gowns before, for example. But for silk, tricks like vodka (gin was used historically) do wonders to remove sweat issues.
I sew a similar dress but your fabric choice is so much better than mine.
The colors within this gown suited you wonderfully
Really enjoy seeing all the construction and how many steps are involved in making these gowns. Amazing work, as always!
Anyone else think that it's almost prettier bustled? What an amazing feat! Definitely beyond my skills currently. Beautiful dress.
I was right! You look like the most delicious Ferrero Rocher chocolate truffle! The gown suits you so well, and oh boy do I love the soubds of your tailor's shears, and the sound of stitching silk.
The absolute flexing on display here. Beautiful gown.
I want a victorian men's suit to match, that pattern is everything
Is it superfluous to say "Stunning"? Your back end looked absolutely amazing and you had just the right walk to make it swing - something I appreciate as an occasional kilt-wearer! Congrats from the UK :-)
Oh my, this gown is just stunning! The back just took my breath away, and then seeing it gently swish as you walked away from the camera, just so elegant! Doing all that patterning on your own is impressive, too. The back bodice and the sleeve construction were particular interesting. I hope you have many occasions to wear this gown!
What a beautiful job you did on that dress! It’s gorgeous. I love the dresses that don’t have so much trim on them because I think that’s more my style.. I love the ones with all the trim, but I know I would feel silly in them. I appreciate the aesthetic of all of them, but I also know the ones that I lean towards. I think yours is very feminine, and also very simple and I like that. The fabric and the silhouette are perfect.😘
So pretty! I can’t believe you sewed all that by hand! I know it’s the wrong era for this, but it reminds me of Sweeney Todd. I think you should make a matching skirt-petticoat.
I saw your short yesterday and am so excited to watch this in full! Just finished watching. It's truly magnificent!
Very nice. And I'm loving the way it drapes when you hitch up the skirt :)
That was impressive! All of your videos are. You are so talented! Beautiful dress.
do y’all know how many times i’ve cried trying to fit things over my body?? too many. this video has been sent from the heavens because so many people do not explain or show how to fit without a dress form. it makes me bonkers as a visual learner.
Fitting the back with the ribbons is a genius idea
Excellent informative video - thank you!
You would have taken Versailles by storm!
Me trying to figure out how you found a wig in modern times with an 18th C style, then I realized it’s like Loretta Lynne’s. The whole creation is stunning!
I love stripe patterns ❤ you are looking very young with the new hairstyle. Nice
Hi, Nicole! I love your work, and this is the best birthday gift I could get!! ❤ Thank you!
That is just stunning!! Brava!!
That is such a lovely gown.
Beautiful! Absolutely stunning!
Nicole! This is such a terrific video! Hearing your thoughts and watching your trys, is both comforting and illuminating. Rotating the sleeve was an eye opener for me for sure! Thank you so much!
I am truly impressed. Thank you for sharing with us.
A Beautiful Masterpiece
While the sleeve fitting is quite helpful, I am actually very happy about the other part you have shown, namely the separation of the seam from the lining when sewing up the sleeve. Didn´t ever think about doing that, but this makes it possible for me to use this sleeve construction in men´s wear and still be able to finish the lining around the shoulder joint in a nice way. Really happy for that, as it saves me like half the seam work on the sleeves.
You. Are. Amazing!
This looks beautiful, oh my goodness!
You are so talented. Beautiful gown.
This is fascinating to watch
as always, stunning workmanship. bravo!💕💕
Beautiful work! And I needed a nice chill vid with Nicole today!
Such a beautifull dress!!!
So unbelievably beautiful! It’s fascinating to watch the whole process but the end result is breathtaking xx
Ahhh, those colors look divine on you! I love that zone front style. Every day I get closer to making 18th c stays 😅
I've got the Scroop Augusta pattern waiting but I'm terrified 😂
Love the stripes 😻 that color is beautiful. Dress is Amazing as usual 😻😻😻. I need to get practicing so my stuff can look that good. 😊
Such perfect timing for this! I am making a Victorian ball gown bodice this week for a ball next Saturday and I’ve been trying to think how to fit myself as my mannequin is not exact and that era is not as forgiving as my usual early to late medieval period. Though it’s a different century I really feel like I can use the concepts from this video in my drafting process.
This is absolutely spectacular!! Your methods are just so perfectly logical!!! Very easy to follow you small adjustments! You earned a new subscriber!!❤
Thank you for making this video for those of us who are always struggling to remember which step comes next. You are a hero to your people. ❤
So pretty 😍 you did good! Bravo!
Absolutely luscious workmanship. As always such a joy to watch your creations come together.
Enjoyed every minute. Love this fabric too. You are so talented
That deep v in the back bodice is marvelous!
Rose Bertin would approve!
Best fitting video for solitary sewer without a good dress form I have seen.
This is an incredibly gorgeous dress and you are gorgeous in it! 😍
Gorgeous ❤ You look glorious. Stunning job
this is awesome!
This is amazing. Thank you so much!! I’ve finally got good stays and I cannot wait to try this!!
Beautiful artistry so interesting to watch. Thank you!
Love that dress.
You are so skilled! I am amazed by your talent in every video 🩷
I'm obsessed with this gown. Well done. I love the stripes and the bows on the stomacher are my absolute favorite part.
Thank you for showing the entire process, I learned a lot from it.
The dress came out great, you look spectacular!
That dress is Gorgeous on you! The perfect fit and so beautiful!
Stunning! You could be a portrait!
That is some beautiful fabrics chosen for all 3 I love the brown strips and that netting looked so soft and I'm always a fan of ivory !
Thanks! This helps for adjusting mock ups for more modern clothes, as well.
Absolutely gorgeous work. These larger construction project videos will always be my favorite :) you look stunning!!!❤
Thank you I enjoyed getting a better understanding of how to fit using this method for modern garments too.
Birdy
Magnificent workmanship,the whole process to the finished garment was a delight to see
Thank you for being the best kind of historian. One that immerses yourself in the topic for true understanding. You're greatly appreciated.
Such a pretty dress and can I just say you are rocking that Bob ❤
This is a beautiful gown, but the draping in back is breathtaking. The dress is its own jewel, so smart to keep the accessories classic, aka lustrous pearls.
This video is such a treasure trove of information, thank you so much for sharing with us! (I've long wanted to make an 18th century gown but been intimidated about doing it by myself, so this helps SO MUCH.)
I learned so many practical sewing things from this, holy crap. Love the way you incorporated the antique lace in a way that'll best preserve/get the most out of it while still using it, and the easy net petticoat thrown on over the ivory one you already had?! Such a clever way to quickly jazz it up and make it more versatile!
Oh, the dopamine rush I got from sewing and figuring out how to make what I imagined in to what I had to work with and my knowledge/ skill level. I am not sewing now ( Rhumatoid disease is not yet under control), but I keep painting and making journals. Sometimes it’s just finger painting because I can’t hold a brush or pen. This channel make me want to sew- and gives me a little of that dopamine hit when I watch hand stitching.
Thank you for all you share. ❤❤
I absolutely love this gown! I took the online Burnley & Trowbridge class for draping a bodice on a mannequin during the pandemic but it's so cool to see you do that on yourself. Making an 18th century outfit is one of my goals sometime.
Absolutely wild how like this time last year we were neck deep in the 1920's with you 🤯 You are SO incredibly skilled!!
I love seeing all of the fitting process! The trick with the tapes is brilliant! I'm excited to try this technique sometime in the future. Although I have historically had the most awful time with sleeves so fingers crossed!
Love your hair style in this video! Looks very glossy, healthy and the color suits you perfectly. ❤
I can barely handle modifying commercial patterns alone! I was taught to drape historical costumes like this, but I was never good at it.
You look fabulous ❤
You truly are a genius! (Not that I ever doubted it, but this solo draping process proves it!)
The straps to hold up the drape is MIND BLOWING 🤯❤ Done! Using it! Holy Hannah!
Whilst I am never going to be doing this period, the section on fitting the sleeves is invaluable, thank you!
You looked gorgeous.