If you see the pellets ANYWHERE they are most definitely already in your tank! The pellets partially break down into mushy carbon and clog the fuel pump filter and damages the pump! I replaced the EVAP canister 6 months ago because of the "I can't fill my car" problem, and just now had to change the pump. I also had to replace the solenoid that sits up on the manifold (injects the fuel fumes into the intake for EPA regulations). That was FULL of pellets as well! I could shake it and it sounded like a salt shaker! I had to blow the line out from that solenoid back to the tank (which connects to the red clipped line that this RUclips creator had fully clogged). While your tank is out to fix a clogged line, pull the pump out and take a look at it and inside of your tank - you are going to be very surprised at how much carbon and pellets there is inside of the pump (and all over it), as well as the bottom of the tank. Again, if you see pellets when you pull your EVAP canister you might as well pull the tank and at least clean out the pump assembly. Pumps are about $75 on Amazon, so you might consider replacing it if you can't get it apart to dump the carbon and clean the filter. A few tips... loosen the lower clamp and pull the hose from the filler neck that way. There is a square notch cut out of the hose. This is an orientation key (notch) for the position of the hose. At first I thought that this was an anchor point, but it's not. Take your pick tool and pry back the rubber around the entire perimeter of the tube to break it free. Then squirt some WD-40 on the hose and neck where they meet - go grab lunch and come back after awhile. Use a pair of heavy duty gloves for good grip and just rotate the hose back and forth while pulling and wiggling. It will pop free and there is plenty of space to do this. Pulling this end of the hose will make life easier when you drop the tank as the fill neck will be short and easy to move out of the way as you tip it past the rear diff. Next tip - EMPTY YOUR TANK! My pump was going out (could not stomp on it or it stumbled and idle pressure was 20 psi), but it was drive-able. I just drove until the low fuel light came on, which is at about 2 gallons or so. That left only about 14 pounds of weight in the tank. You can use a hose to drain the rest of the fuel if you want, but the tank is very manageable with just a couple of gallons of weight. I learned that the fill neck has a one-way door in it. I went to dump the remaining fuel out of the tank into a bucket (by standing it on end) and couldn't figure out why the gas would not come out. I placed a rubber hose in the fill neck to hold open the door and out came the fuel - and pellets, lots of pellets! Next tip - once the tank is nearly empty, take a micro-fiber cloth and wipe out the entire inside. You can't quite reach the front of the tank with your arm through the hole (where the fuel pump goes), so I sloshed fuel back and forth to basically clean the front portion and wash all of the carbon debris to the back. You can reach ALL of the back of the tank easily with your arm through the hole. I pulled out literally hand fulls of pellets and mushy carbon! I can't believe it ran at all this way after replacing the EVAP canister, which stopped the pellet issue! So, thanks to this RUclips creator for this video.... I almost pulled the tank the first time when I still had the same issue he did where replacement of the canister did not fully solve the issue with being able to fill the tank. I found that after about the 3rd tank it would fill just fine at that point because I guess enough of the pellets had moved into the lines and the solenoid. I did not have any fully clogged lines when I inspected everything... just lots of loose pellets in them! I have a 2008 Tahoe LTZ.
I have an 07 Yukon, started noticing strong gas fumes, sometimes acting up when cranking after it’s been ran, then it’s an absolute nightmare to put gas in it. Takes forever. First thing I did was change the purge valve, then replaced charcoal canister, and blew out the lines. As my luck would have it, trying to put gas it in is still a a pain. At first the fumes went away, after driving it a few times, they are back and it still acts up after a warm start. HELP!!!!! I am going insane!!!!! I don’t think this really matters, but my Yukon is cammed and tuned etc, surely that has zero to do with my issue/issues. ANY help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
I have an 07 Yukon, started noticing strong gas fumes, sometimes acting up when cranking after it’s been ran, then it’s an absolute nightmare to put gas in it. Takes forever. First thing I did was change the purge valve, then replaced charcoal canister, and blew out the lines. As my luck would have it, trying to put gas it in is still a a pain. At first the fumes went away, after driving it a few times, they are back and it still acts up after a warm start. HELP!!!!! I am going insane!!!!! I don’t think this really matters, but my Yukon is cammed and tuned etc, surely that has zero to do with my issue/issues. ANY help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
I’m currently going through the same problem. Replaced the same parts you did. For this video sake I won’t take the tank off. I’ll just blow through the passenger lines. Thank you very much sir 🫡
2012 Tahoe...vapor canister...evap solenoid...now dropping tank to clear lines...don't wanna buy a fuel pump but i guess its the wisest thing to do. Thanks for the vid
A trick I was taught with fuel lines. When you go to reassemble. Get some ATF and a cheap spray bottle. Spray the areas around where the fuel line rubber fittings go. Not only will it make it 10x easier to get on and in place. But later on down the road. If you need to remove the fuel lines again for whatever reason. They'll be easier to take off
Thanks for taking the time to comment David. I was doing work and had to pull the intake of the motor. So I decided to replace the purge solenoid right there by the intake. It was clogged as well. I was able to run air in that line and blow it out clean. All that said, I once again have a slight issue. It happens when you first start filling gas when the tank is empty. Once I slowly get a few gallons in, it is ok. I think I just need to blow out whatever lines I can easily get to again. I guess it is residual charcoal pellets that has been moving around as I tackled this issue in parts and pieces!
I really appreciate you making this video I had the same issue with my 2017 Chevy Suburban can't understand why they didn't put a screen to stop the pellet from going through thank you very much you're a blessing🎉
Dealing with this on a 08 Tahoe and wondering the same thing. Even the new vapor canister doesn't have a screen to stop it from happening again. One thing I've read to help prevent this from happening is to not top off your tank so gas doesn't go down the lines and into the canister where is will break down the pellets faster.
@@phitnessc6687I also am currently dealing with this on my 08 Tahoe. Replaced the canister, then the solenoid to no avail. I really don’t want to drop the tank. Gonna see if I can blow out a hose or two with the tank still on.
Thanks man. My truck ('08 Chev 2500) did some of this not being able to put gas in it in 2012 when I bought it (it had sat a yr when I got it), and eventually got to where it was fine after a while of driving it and few trips cross-country and to Canada, but about a yr and a half ago, the check engine light w/ EVAP code came on and about a yr ago, it started again with that whole can't put gas in it thing, but after 2 mos of not driving it, now she runs TERRIBLE and missing out like nobody's business. I'd like to avoid pulling the tank if I can since you had such a time with it, but I feel like to be safe, ALL the lines should be checked/cleaned. Also, I'll see if I can get one of those long-nozzled air blowers you found @ HF because that would be handy as all get out anyway. When I get around to that portion, I'll have to let you know how it went, but appreciate you putting the info out there for us. It's nice to have a gander at the work before doing it.
Update: I just finished and filled up. I got a ton of pellets out of the lines. I also changed the fuel pump while I had the tank out. Thanks for the video!
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. My gas gauge is always showing full. Can a bad gas pump and sending unit be the culprit?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Would I be able to blow out the hose that gave you problems without dropping the fuel tank by simply disconnecting the hoses from their respective connections and shooting air? I bet that some hose runs up to the purge solenoid on top of the engine.
Great video brother my 2007 Chevy Avalanche burps up fuel at the pump and it’s frustrating as hell. I’m gonna have to buy an air compressor with that gun attachment and try and clear the line without having to remove the tank. Do you need any special tools to disconnect the clogged up evap line on both ends?
It has been while since I did this, but don't think any special tools were needed. Just patience and if you are lucky, someone to help. I have done all the lines and I still occasionally have some issues. I did my work...."one thing at a time" so I think I still have pellets still floating around in the lines. If you haven't done your cannister and purge valve, I would do those first as it is much easier and could fix the issue. Unfortunately, I think you will need to do them all. Good luck!
Got a 2011 silverado 5.3 V.8 with a P0442 evap code. I've changed out the gas cap, the evap control module under the hood, and got the truck smoked to check for leaks. None were found. I just did the vent valve and the charcoal canister Friday night. Yesterday ( Saturday ) when I went to fill the truck with fuel, I turned the truck off, put the fuel nozzle in the truck and let it rip. ( lifting the lever and locking it so the fuel can fill and I don't have to hold the lever ) The nozzle didnt stop until the fuel is overflowing out of the fill tube. Pretty sure I just filled my charcoal canister with fuel again and the code is gonna show up. Other than all the shit I've already done.....what else can be the issue for the code? That one line?
You can blow a lot of them out without having to drop the tank. I would do this as a last resort. There are some that dropping the tank make it easier I think.
Did you get it all out of the purge line going to the front that runs by the fuel line? I’ve done many of these and that’s the line I always have trouble clearing as it transitions from plastic to metal with a rubber section in the middle. It’s almost impossible to clear. It won’t stop you from putting fuel into it but it will cause evap codes due to not being able to pull a vacuum on the tank fast enough depending on how bad it’s blocked.
Well John, I thought that I did (get it all out of the line that goes to motor) but still have occasional issues filling.) I replaced the solenoid up there as well. I think I got most of it out of all the lines, but I think some moved around as I replaced the individual lines over ~6 months or so. I will blow out the ones that I get to again here in a few weeks.
@@KMLTimesTwo you’re really going to have to lower the tank down a little bit to get it all out of the lines back there. The way they designed that line makes it very difficult to blow it all out. It splits off multiple places. It has one connection at the top rear of the tank, one smaller connection that attaches to the fuel pump, the large one that is the rear line on the canister, the middle line on the canister, then to the front to the purge solenoid. If it’s hard to fill again it has to be at the rear between the tank and the canister or canister to vent solenoid. It’s almost ALWAYS between the tank and canister because that’s the way vacuum is pulling. Because that line T’s off in multiple directions it impossible to blow it all out without lowering the tank and blowing through it multiple directions. Shake the lines while blowing through them and don’t stop until the air is blowing through the line unrestricted. One of the biggest indicators that you have it all out of the rear line is that you can blow air into the hose that connects to the top rear of the tank and it comes out of the hose that connects to the rear of the canister easily. If air is not blasting out of that side loudly then it still has charcoal in it and the air is coming out of the smaller lines instead. If there is a restriction forward of the tank it may cause some evap codes but it will not cause the tank to be hard to fill.
Yours actually doesn’t have the connection at the top rear of the tank like the Tahoe’s do so that’s one less to blow through. Yours has five connections. Those two at the pump, two at the canister and the one at the front of the tank. It’s always that large one from the pump to the canister. If you have to, plug the small lines with something to be sure you’re getting full flow through the large line when blowing through it. We’ve always seen this issue from time to time with these GM trucks at the shop but it has become really prevalent lately. I’ve done three of them this month.
@@KMLTimesTwo what were the individual hose part #s??? I've dropped my tank twice now and cleaned lines, replaced all three evap components and i still can only fill 10 cents at a time!!
@@robertwilliams7188 I didn't replace any lines in this video, I just blew them out with air. I think there's two parts in the back that you need to look at. There's the canister and the valve. Did you replace both of those? There's also a line that goes from the gas tank in the front all the way to the engine compartment. Mine was clogged there as well. Finally there's a solenoid in the engine compartment where that line connects up into. I replaced mine. That said I still have occasional issues but I think it's charcoal pellets moving around that I was unable to get out at the time. I also wish I had done all of this at one time. I think doing it and parts over time allows the little pellets to move around and hide from you.
I'm about to do thi. I have 2 questions, 1can i drop the tant just from the front and leave the filler alone? 2 i have an avalanche ,would it be easy to remove the bed?
No, there is a cross-member directly under the front of the tank. You have drop the rear of the tank first and slide it all backwards so the front clears that cross-member.
These trucks (and a lot of cars now) have charcoal canisters that absorb the gas fumes and keep them out of the environment. It's an EPA thing I guess. After a while I guess the charcoal breaks downs and starts to get sucked out of the cannister and into the lines. Once that happens, air can not get through and it makes it difficult to fill the truck up with gas. (The air in the tank has no where to go.)
There is a screen (plastic I think) that sits directly inside of the canister at the main output. When that screen fails, it dumps the contents of the canister through your EVAP system.
@@KMLTimesTwo i just did a pulldown of the tank and non of the pellets are in. although i had a p0446 code. i took a blower and blew all the lines including the evap from the front engine and nothing came out. returned the tank and the code was gone. some said, need to change the whole evap lines in the tank which cost like 200usd
@@comaradelee did you replace the vapor cannister and the other vent valve thing? Those are common things to replace. I replaced both of those and had a bunch of pellets in those associated lines. There is also a solenoid in the engine compartment that is easy to replace. I would think those should be replaced before all the lines.....but I am not a mechanic, so I don't want to give you bad advice. I always try easiest to hardest.....although sometimes the easy fix doesn't fix the issue and you end up spending more $$. Good luck.
Hose removal procedure. #1 remove tension on all connections. #2 use strongest hand available on hose to tank. #3 crush, twist, pull/push. If hose is damaged it required replacement. #4 verify system integrity.
Thanks, we'll try to remove the tank tomorrow. Before that, they cleaned the tank with coal, pipes, but it did not help. I hope it works after cleaning the air tube... CADILLAC ESCALADE 2012 PLATINUM ESV
If you see the pellets ANYWHERE they are most definitely already in your tank! The pellets partially break down into mushy carbon and clog the fuel pump filter and damages the pump! I replaced the EVAP canister 6 months ago because of the "I can't fill my car" problem, and just now had to change the pump. I also had to replace the solenoid that sits up on the manifold (injects the fuel fumes into the intake for EPA regulations). That was FULL of pellets as well! I could shake it and it sounded like a salt shaker! I had to blow the line out from that solenoid back to the tank (which connects to the red clipped line that this RUclips creator had fully clogged). While your tank is out to fix a clogged line, pull the pump out and take a look at it and inside of your tank - you are going to be very surprised at how much carbon and pellets there is inside of the pump (and all over it), as well as the bottom of the tank. Again, if you see pellets when you pull your EVAP canister you might as well pull the tank and at least clean out the pump assembly. Pumps are about $75 on Amazon, so you might consider replacing it if you can't get it apart to dump the carbon and clean the filter.
A few tips... loosen the lower clamp and pull the hose from the filler neck that way. There is a square notch cut out of the hose. This is an orientation key (notch) for the position of the hose. At first I thought that this was an anchor point, but it's not. Take your pick tool and pry back the rubber around the entire perimeter of the tube to break it free. Then squirt some WD-40 on the hose and neck where they meet - go grab lunch and come back after awhile. Use a pair of heavy duty gloves for good grip and just rotate the hose back and forth while pulling and wiggling. It will pop free and there is plenty of space to do this. Pulling this end of the hose will make life easier when you drop the tank as the fill neck will be short and easy to move out of the way as you tip it past the rear diff. Next tip - EMPTY YOUR TANK! My pump was going out (could not stomp on it or it stumbled and idle pressure was 20 psi), but it was drive-able. I just drove until the low fuel light came on, which is at about 2 gallons or so. That left only about 14 pounds of weight in the tank. You can use a hose to drain the rest of the fuel if you want, but the tank is very manageable with just a couple of gallons of weight. I learned that the fill neck has a one-way door in it. I went to dump the remaining fuel out of the tank into a bucket (by standing it on end) and couldn't figure out why the gas would not come out. I placed a rubber hose in the fill neck to hold open the door and out came the fuel - and pellets, lots of pellets! Next tip - once the tank is nearly empty, take a micro-fiber cloth and wipe out the entire inside. You can't quite reach the front of the tank with your arm through the hole (where the fuel pump goes), so I sloshed fuel back and forth to basically clean the front portion and wash all of the carbon debris to the back. You can reach ALL of the back of the tank easily with your arm through the hole. I pulled out literally hand fulls of pellets and mushy carbon! I can't believe it ran at all this way after replacing the EVAP canister, which stopped the pellet issue!
So, thanks to this RUclips creator for this video.... I almost pulled the tank the first time when I still had the same issue he did where replacement of the canister did not fully solve the issue with being able to fill the tank. I found that after about the 3rd tank it would fill just fine at that point because I guess enough of the pellets had moved into the lines and the solenoid. I did not have any fully clogged lines when I inspected everything... just lots of loose pellets in them!
I have a 2008 Tahoe LTZ.
@LHCVette Very good point and I am sure I have some in my tank. Ugh.
I have an 07 Yukon, started noticing strong gas fumes, sometimes acting up when cranking after it’s been ran, then it’s an absolute nightmare to put gas in it. Takes forever. First thing I did was change the purge valve, then replaced charcoal canister, and blew out the lines. As my luck would have it, trying to put gas it in is still a a pain. At first the fumes went away, after driving it a few times, they are back and it still acts up after a warm start. HELP!!!!! I am going insane!!!!! I don’t think this really matters, but my Yukon is cammed and tuned etc, surely that has zero to do with my issue/issues. ANY help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
I have an 07 Yukon, started noticing strong gas fumes, sometimes acting up when cranking after it’s been ran, then it’s an absolute nightmare to put gas in it. Takes forever. First thing I did was change the purge valve, then replaced charcoal canister, and blew out the lines. As my luck would have it, trying to put gas it in is still a a pain. At first the fumes went away, after driving it a few times, they are back and it still acts up after a warm start. HELP!!!!! I am going insane!!!!! I don’t think this really matters, but my Yukon is cammed and tuned etc, surely that has zero to do with my issue/issues. ANY help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
I’m currently going through the same problem. Replaced the same parts you did. For this video sake I won’t take the tank off. I’ll just blow through the passenger lines. Thank you very much sir 🫡
If that doesn't work replace the canister purge solenoid which is on the upper intake manifold
2012 Tahoe...vapor canister...evap solenoid...now dropping tank to clear lines...don't wanna buy a fuel pump but i guess its the wisest thing to do. Thanks for the vid
A trick I was taught with fuel lines. When you go to reassemble. Get some ATF and a cheap spray bottle. Spray the areas around where the fuel line rubber fittings go. Not only will it make it 10x easier to get on and in place. But later on down the road. If you need to remove the fuel lines again for whatever reason. They'll be easier to take off
Great video. By the time your lines are clogged you will have a ton of charcoal in the tank that needs to be cleaned out.
Yep, I can confirm that!
Thanks for the advice! I have replaced both as well and still have the issue. I'll try this next.
Thanks for taking the time to comment David. I was doing work and had to pull the intake of the motor. So I decided to replace the purge solenoid right there by the intake. It was clogged as well. I was able to run air in that line and blow it out clean. All that said, I once again have a slight issue. It happens when you first start filling gas when the tank is empty. Once I slowly get a few gallons in, it is ok. I think I just need to blow out whatever lines I can easily get to again. I guess it is residual charcoal pellets that has been moving around as I tackled this issue in parts and pieces!
Same here I replaced the hole fuel system and still cant put gas
@@chonvalverde7079 Thanks Chon. Mine is bearable I guess. Improved from how it was. Let us know if you get it figured out.
My truck.....2007 Sierra NNBS has never had the canister replaced. I think Im gonna do this just as a preventative. Thanks for the video
I really appreciate you making this video I had the same issue with my 2017 Chevy Suburban can't understand why they didn't put a screen to stop the pellet from going through thank you very much you're a blessing🎉
Thanks for the kind words sir! Glad it helped.
Dealing with this on a 08 Tahoe and wondering the same thing. Even the new vapor canister doesn't have a screen to stop it from happening again. One thing I've read to help prevent this from happening is to not top off your tank so gas doesn't go down the lines and into the canister where is will break down the pellets faster.
@@phitnessc6687I also am currently dealing with this on my 08 Tahoe. Replaced the canister, then the solenoid to no avail. I really don’t want to drop the tank. Gonna see if I can blow out a hose or two with the tank still on.
Just finished and filled up. Great video. Thanks.
Sounds good Scott. Glad it helped!
Thank you for taking the time to share this.
Thanks man. My truck ('08 Chev 2500) did some of this not being able to put gas in it in 2012 when I bought it (it had sat a yr when I got it), and eventually got to where it was fine after a while of driving it and few trips cross-country and to Canada, but about a yr and a half ago, the check engine light w/ EVAP code came on and about a yr ago, it started again with that whole can't put gas in it thing, but after 2 mos of not driving it, now she runs TERRIBLE and missing out like nobody's business. I'd like to avoid pulling the tank if I can since you had such a time with it, but I feel like to be safe, ALL the lines should be checked/cleaned. Also, I'll see if I can get one of those long-nozzled air blowers you found @ HF because that would be handy as all get out anyway. When I get around to that portion, I'll have to let you know how it went, but appreciate you putting the info out there for us. It's nice to have a gander at the work before doing it.
Wow wish i saw this video sooner. I replaced both and no luck. Knocking this out next week for sure. Thank you
Good luck!
Thank you for this video, it helped a lot! My problem was a vent line was kinked, I had to order the set
Update: I just finished and filled up. I got a ton of pellets out of the lines. I also changed the fuel pump while I had the tank out. Thanks for the video!
Fantastic, thanks for letting me know!
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. My gas gauge is always showing full. Can a bad gas pump and sending unit be the culprit?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Not sure how to help you there....but I would think that if it was a bad gas pump you would have issue with it running or starting.
OMG, this problems on my 2015 sierra has been driving me crazy. tried everything apart from this. Will do it on the weekend. Thanks mate!
I would say enjoy, but I know its not that fun, lol. Let me know how it turns out.
What's the verdict?
Good info thanks I've been having the same issues and replaced the same parts.
Would I be able to blow out the hose that gave you problems without dropping the fuel tank by simply disconnecting the hoses from their respective connections and shooting air?
I bet that some hose runs up to the purge solenoid on top of the engine.
one does goes to the engine and is easier to clear but the other one that’s thicker i’m pretty sure u gotta drop the tank to be able to clear it
Great video brother my 2007 Chevy Avalanche burps up fuel at the pump and it’s frustrating as hell. I’m gonna have to buy an air compressor with that gun attachment and try and clear the line without having to remove the tank. Do you need any special tools to disconnect the clogged up evap line on both ends?
It has been while since I did this, but don't think any special tools were needed. Just patience and if you are lucky, someone to help. I have done all the lines and I still occasionally have some issues. I did my work...."one thing at a time" so I think I still have pellets still floating around in the lines. If you haven't done your cannister and purge valve, I would do those first as it is much easier and could fix the issue. Unfortunately, I think you will need to do them all. Good luck!
Well this is going to be an interesting experience but I’m going to see what I can do ! Thanks for the tips
It is interesting, that is for sure, lol
@@KMLTimesTwo well turns out my canister was all good and my lines weren’t clogged, must be the solenoid lol
Got a 2011 silverado 5.3 V.8 with a P0442 evap code.
I've changed out the gas cap, the evap control module under the hood, and got the truck smoked to check for leaks. None were found. I just did the vent valve and the charcoal canister Friday night.
Yesterday ( Saturday ) when I went to fill the truck with fuel, I turned the truck off, put the fuel nozzle in the truck and let it rip. ( lifting the lever and locking it so the fuel can fill and I don't have to hold the lever ) The nozzle didnt stop until the fuel is overflowing out of the fill tube.
Pretty sure I just filled my charcoal canister with fuel again and the code is gonna show up.
Other than all the shit I've already done.....what else can be the issue for the code? That one line?
Think it's possible to blow the lines out without dropping the tank?
You can blow a lot of them out without having to drop the tank. I would do this as a last resort. There are some that dropping the tank make it easier I think.
Did you get it all out of the purge line going to the front that runs by the fuel line? I’ve done many of these and that’s the line I always have trouble clearing as it transitions from plastic to metal with a rubber section in the middle. It’s almost impossible to clear. It won’t stop you from putting fuel into it but it will cause evap codes due to not being able to pull a vacuum on the tank fast enough depending on how bad it’s blocked.
Well John, I thought that I did (get it all out of the line that goes to motor) but still have occasional issues filling.) I replaced the solenoid up there as well. I think I got most of it out of all the lines, but I think some moved around as I replaced the individual lines over ~6 months or so. I will blow out the ones that I get to again here in a few weeks.
@@KMLTimesTwo you’re really going to have to lower the tank down a little bit to get it all out of the lines back there. The way they designed that line makes it very difficult to blow it all out. It splits off multiple places. It has one connection at the top rear of the tank, one smaller connection that attaches to the fuel pump, the large one that is the rear line on the canister, the middle line on the canister, then to the front to the purge solenoid. If it’s hard to fill again it has to be at the rear between the tank and the canister or canister to vent solenoid. It’s almost ALWAYS between the tank and canister because that’s the way vacuum is pulling. Because that line T’s off in multiple directions it impossible to blow it all out without lowering the tank and blowing through it multiple directions. Shake the lines while blowing through them and don’t stop until the air is blowing through the line unrestricted. One of the biggest indicators that you have it all out of the rear line is that you can blow air into the hose that connects to the top rear of the tank and it comes out of the hose that connects to the rear of the canister easily. If air is not blasting out of that side loudly then it still has charcoal in it and the air is coming out of the smaller lines instead. If there is a restriction forward of the tank it may cause some evap codes but it will not cause the tank to be hard to fill.
Yours actually doesn’t have the connection at the top rear of the tank like the Tahoe’s do so that’s one less to blow through. Yours has five connections. Those two at the pump, two at the canister and the one at the front of the tank. It’s always that large one from the pump to the canister. If you have to, plug the small lines with something to be sure you’re getting full flow through the large line when blowing through it. We’ve always seen this issue from time to time with these GM trucks at the shop but it has become really prevalent lately. I’ve done three of them this month.
@@KMLTimesTwo what were the individual hose part #s??? I've dropped my tank twice now and cleaned lines, replaced all three evap components and i still can only fill 10 cents at a time!!
@@robertwilliams7188 I didn't replace any lines in this video, I just blew them out with air. I think there's two parts in the back that you need to look at. There's the canister and the valve. Did you replace both of those? There's also a line that goes from the gas tank in the front all the way to the engine compartment. Mine was clogged there as well. Finally there's a solenoid in the engine compartment where that line connects up into. I replaced mine. That said I still have occasional issues but I think it's charcoal pellets moving around that I was unable to get out at the time. I also wish I had done all of this at one time. I think doing it and parts over time allows the little pellets to move around and hide from you.
hope thats not my issue. house vacuum might try and air,
Very helpful 👍
I'm about to do thi. I have 2 questions,
1can i drop the tant just from the front and leave the filler alone?
2 i have an avalanche ,would it be easy to remove the bed?
That is a good question. You might be able to drop in the front just enough to do what you need to do, but I couldn't tell you for sure. Good luck.
No, there is a cross-member directly under the front of the tank. You have drop the rear of the tank first and slide it all backwards so the front clears that cross-member.
Do you have the link or part number for that line? Its only showing feed line
my 2013 is going through this now Caddy EXT... who the hell designed this system needs a court martial! Man
Thank you so much. Evap hose from GM is 400.00.
Thanks for the kind words. $400? Heck no! That's worth a trip to the junk yard.
I have a heavy smell of gas could this also be my problem?.
@RobertCrawford-h9t Not sure. I didn't have any please smell prior to doing this.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for video. Need instructions for 2016 Canyon tank removal. I got to do this too.
Thanks. Wish I could help you with the other truck. I just have the Yukon. Good luck.
Is it possible to just use a pipe cleaner to clean the lines instead?
Not sure what you have, but don't think so. Whatever it is, it would need to be pretty long and skinny.
How do you delete the entire EVAP system? It is useless and does nothing but keep mechanics and dealers in business constantly replacing parts.
🤡
AMEN
What’s the name of that blue line
Not sure...sorry
What causes the charcoal pellets? And do all vehicles have pellets travel through their line-tubes?
These trucks (and a lot of cars now) have charcoal canisters that absorb the gas fumes and keep them out of the environment. It's an EPA thing I guess. After a while I guess the charcoal breaks downs and starts to get sucked out of the cannister and into the lines. Once that happens, air can not get through and it makes it difficult to fill the truck up with gas. (The air in the tank has no where to go.)
There is a screen (plastic I think) that sits directly inside of the canister at the main output. When that screen fails, it dumps the contents of the canister through your EVAP system.
my tahoe clicks when i’m filling it up and replaced the canister and cleaned the lines,what should i do next
I would do the solenoid in the engine compartment. It is an easy thing to try.
@@KMLTimesTwoi blew that line already and it still clicks
@@KMLTimesTwo The Purge solenoid has nothing to do with filling issues. Don't waste your money.
did u get evap code?
I never scanned for codes. I started all this because it took forever to put gas in it. I actually still have an issue sporadically.
@@KMLTimesTwo i just did a pulldown of the tank and non of the pellets are in. although i had a p0446 code. i took a blower and blew all the lines including the evap from the front engine and nothing came out. returned the tank and the code was gone. some said, need to change the whole evap lines in the tank which cost like 200usd
@@comaradelee did you replace the vapor cannister and the other vent valve thing? Those are common things to replace. I replaced both of those and had a bunch of pellets in those associated lines. There is also a solenoid in the engine compartment that is easy to replace. I would think those should be replaced before all the lines.....but I am not a mechanic, so I don't want to give you bad advice. I always try easiest to hardest.....although sometimes the easy fix doesn't fix the issue and you end up spending more $$. Good luck.
Will buy this parts and replace them. Just had them replaced 2020.but will see if this maybe bad
@@comaradelee hmmmm....if you just replaced them....I wouldn't do it again. Man....yours is fighting you big time.
Going to give it a go if not work strip this truck throw it in the scrap heep good video though thanks Government with no plans.
I done have tried everything my next step is doing this I guess
Good luck. Get someone to help if you can.
Hose removal procedure.
#1 remove tension on all connections.
#2 use strongest hand available on hose to tank.
#3 crush, twist, pull/push. If hose is damaged it required replacement.
#4 verify system integrity.
Thanks will get blow gun..so won't have to drop tank
Thanks, we'll try to remove the tank tomorrow. Before that, they cleaned the tank with coal, pipes, but it did not help. I hope it works after cleaning the air tube... CADILLAC ESCALADE 2012 PLATINUM ESV
tell me please, when you cleaned the air tube on the tank, did it work out?
Thanks