Nice to see it take a direct short, not all psu will take this. I've two 30A ones that will blow the fets and output diodes everytime you short the output. And at £200 a psu it can start to get expensive. A small note in the specification states they are not short circuit proof, and a repair is the same price as a new unit.
Yeah the ability to take a short comes in handy around here when the unit is being moved around my temporary setup with test leads flying everywhere and forgetting to power down. The manual for this one actually says to short the terminals to set the current limit and adjust until the short circuit current on the display matches the limit we want...a potentially bad habit to get into!
Back in September I purchased a Minileaf NPS605W power supply, which as the name implies has a maximum output of 60 volts and 5 amps. It cost $100 Australian. The only issue I have with it, is that there is a small lag between adjusting the voltage, and the power supply reaching the voltage I want. BTW I got my from Ebay, not Bangood.
Now that you say that, I just tried mine with no load connected to see, and it seems to lag when adjusting lower, but respond faster when adjusting to a higher voltage. I wonder if that's just some inherent thing or specific to this design...I don't have a different one to test...
What you did not check is how it reacts to pulse loads. Most switched power supplies can easy supply high constant current but can not supply current into pulsed loads.
I am mostly interested how those will perform over time. One tiny fault, according to IEC-EN-NEN standards the earth wire should be connected directly to the chassis and not via a bolt or screw from the PCB.
I was happy that the fuse was on the hot side and the hot side was being switched. I had a different cheaply made item that fused neutral, switched neutral, and had a 26 gauge earth connection!
@@GadgetReboot I guess technically it shouldn't really matter for a fuse. Since it will blow either way in a over-current situation and therefor there is no current flowing through the transformer anymore.
I can think of 2 situations where fusing neutral may not be safe. If there is a short from line to chassis and the short circuit path is completed along earth ground instead of neutral, the neutral fuse may not come into the circuit (so the breaker in the panel will kick in instead). Also if a neutral fuse did blow from a line to chassis short and someone is handling the unit, there could still be live voltage on the chassis from the line to chassis short if everything is still plugged in and active (the person may have a path to ground other than the unit itself, but have the live chassis supplying AC while handling).
@@GadgetReboot True, but aren't these events covered by the earth breaker? (RCD or RCCB). It's actually good practice just to have a fuse for each line (life or neutral, or hot and neutral, whatever you want to call it lol)
I don't know enough about all the hazards but being a devil's advocate, back in the days of just fuses in the panel instead of resettable breakers, when people would cheat them out after they blow, the only fuse would be in the device! I remember blowing those fuses and having none in the drawer. Very inconvenient.
I didn't even try to use the non grounded travel adapter thing, just put my own normal IEC 320 standard plug. At least the inside does use the earth connection. I knew a day would come when I could justify not throwing out pointless spare old computer power cables.
@@GadgetReboot Have been playing with audio chip amps, w center tapped transformers in recent weeks. Would be nice to have a variable supply, center tapped, with Sziklai pair / capacitance multipliers that deliver millivolt-level ripple, so as to drive my test rigs with ideal maximum power. (sigh) Surely something like this exists ... but probably expensive.
The unit has a certain problem in the form of output electrolytic capacitors with a maximum voltage of 35 V when the output voltage of the unit is ~31.5 V. There is no voltage reserve. I definitely wouldn't recommend buying it, it's just dangerous. The device is operating on the verge of failure. The same block NPS605W has a similar problem with 63 V output electrolytic capacitors when the block output voltage is 61 V. It is not good.
Not reliable at all. Mine has stopped providing rated current and voltage with severe load regulation issues after a few months. Better get a US made one, pay more and not regret your purchase.
@@GadgetReboot That's great. I have taken it to the limit in terms of power output. Perhaps some devices have been stressed. I may have to open it and check the power devices carefully. The control circuitry appears to be OK. One may not notice degradation at low output power levels.
I got a response from the manufacturer stating that I should check if the AC power was switched to 115VAC (being in the US). Doh! Really? Well, that wasn't a bad suggestion even though I had been operating it on 115VAC setting from day 1. If the switch was faulty, it would explain the issue I had (the supply would top out at 23V and couldn't drive full rated current). I replaced the switch and the unit is now working fine. It now delivers 300W at 30V & 10A with only a 0.3V drop in voltage from the nominal 30V. A nice supply ruined by a cheap switch on the line voltage selector!
Nice to see it take a direct short, not all psu will take this. I've two 30A ones that will blow the fets and output diodes everytime you short the output. And at £200 a psu it can start to get expensive. A small note in the specification states they are not short circuit proof, and a repair is the same price as a new unit.
Yeah the ability to take a short comes in handy around here when the unit is being moved around my temporary setup with test leads flying everywhere and forgetting to power down. The manual for this one actually says to short the terminals to set the current limit and adjust until the short circuit current on the display matches the limit we want...a potentially bad habit to get into!
Back in September I purchased a Minileaf NPS605W power supply, which as the name implies has a maximum output of 60 volts and 5 amps. It cost $100 Australian. The only issue I have with it, is that there is a small lag between adjusting the voltage, and the power supply reaching the voltage I want. BTW I got my from Ebay, not Bangood.
Now that you say that, I just tried mine with no load connected to see, and it seems to lag when adjusting lower, but respond faster when adjusting to a higher voltage. I wonder if that's just some inherent thing or specific to this design...I don't have a different one to test...
Nice review video
Looks like I've just found my late Christmas present for myself. 🤣
What you did not check is how it reacts to pulse loads. Most switched power supplies can easy supply high constant current but can not supply current into pulsed loads.
Great deal! Gotta love Banggood!
I am mostly interested how those will perform over time.
One tiny fault, according to IEC-EN-NEN standards the earth wire should be connected directly to the chassis and not via a bolt or screw from the PCB.
I was happy that the fuse was on the hot side and the hot side was being switched. I had a different cheaply made item that fused neutral, switched neutral, and had a 26 gauge earth connection!
@@GadgetReboot I guess technically it shouldn't really matter for a fuse.
Since it will blow either way in a over-current situation and therefor there is no current flowing through the transformer anymore.
I can think of 2 situations where fusing neutral may not be safe. If there is a short from line to chassis and the short circuit path is completed along earth ground instead of neutral, the neutral fuse may not come into the circuit (so the breaker in the panel will kick in instead). Also if a neutral fuse did blow from a line to chassis short and someone is handling the unit, there could still be live voltage on the chassis from the line to chassis short if everything is still plugged in and active (the person may have a path to ground other than the unit itself, but have the live chassis supplying AC while handling).
@@GadgetReboot True, but aren't these events covered by the earth breaker? (RCD or RCCB). It's actually good practice just to have a fuse for each line (life or neutral, or hot and neutral, whatever you want to call it lol)
I don't know enough about all the hazards but being a devil's advocate, back in the days of just fuses in the panel instead of resettable breakers, when people would cheat them out after they blow, the only fuse would be in the device! I remember blowing those fuses and having none in the drawer. Very inconvenient.
I found i get a few shocks/tingles on the power out with the adapter plug they supply. Seems no earth provided on the adapter.
I didn't even try to use the non grounded travel adapter thing, just put my own normal IEC 320 standard plug. At least the inside does use the earth connection. I knew a day would come when I could justify not throwing out pointless spare old computer power cables.
That's a lot of current for the price.
Going to need to order more strings of LEDs to soak it all up
i had problem with my dc power supply the amps and wattage not functioning
Did you get to fix it? I have the same problem
Free Stuff!
And more on the way hopefully coming soon!
@@GadgetReboot Have been playing with audio chip amps, w center tapped transformers in recent weeks.
Would be nice to have a variable supply, center tapped, with Sziklai pair / capacitance multipliers that deliver millivolt-level ripple, so as to drive my test rigs with ideal maximum power. (sigh) Surely something like this exists ... but probably expensive.
I receive a damaged Topshak NPS3010W from Banggood and they refuse to replace or refund my money
The unit has a certain problem in the form of output electrolytic capacitors with a maximum voltage of 35 V when the output voltage of the unit is ~31.5 V. There is no voltage reserve. I definitely wouldn't recommend buying it, it's just dangerous. The device is operating on the verge of failure.
The same block NPS605W has a similar problem with 63 V output electrolytic capacitors when the block output voltage is 61 V. It is not good.
Why would you spark you probes and damage them. I LMAO when you "F"ed up your probe.
Not reliable at all. Mine has stopped providing rated current and voltage with severe load regulation issues after a few months. Better get a US made one, pay more and not regret your purchase.
I have two I’ve been using regularly ever since I got them a year and a half ago with no problems using several amps occasionally.
@@GadgetReboot That's great. I have taken it to the limit in terms of power output. Perhaps some devices have been stressed. I may have to open it and check the power devices carefully. The control circuitry appears to be OK. One may not notice degradation at low output power levels.
I got a response from the manufacturer stating that I should check if the AC power was switched to 115VAC (being in the US). Doh! Really? Well, that wasn't a bad suggestion even though I had been operating it on 115VAC setting from day 1. If the switch was faulty, it would explain the issue I had (the supply would top out at 23V and couldn't drive full rated current). I replaced the switch and the unit is now working fine. It now delivers 300W at 30V & 10A with only a 0.3V drop in voltage from the nominal 30V. A nice supply ruined by a cheap switch on the line voltage selector!