Check your motor mounts, they might need to be changed. If they are bad then your engine would rock back and forth slightly under load causing the bracket to fail over time
Yea that's what I've been thinking the issue is. Would cause it to sit slightly lower too which is probably why it likes to rest on the sub frame. I plan on replacing those while I'm in there doing the oil pump sometime soon
sup nerd it's your guitarist here. it looks like the exhaust just needs to be supported better. the bracket itself is a bad design from toyota, the vibrations and wear and tear will cause it to crack, but if it were supported better by subsequent brackets to keep it from bouncing around so much you will probably get better results.
I agree. The only other hangers are all the way back at the muffler. That's why I'm trying to use some heat resistant silicone to help support it for now until I can replace the whole thing and maybe do a custom job to make it right. That's what I get for being cheap and buying a $100 exhaust lol
@@walker.projects As someone who's had to glue old vehicle's exhaust systems back together himself I can attest that a heavy-duty wire (I used electric fencing wire because I'm a redneck in the sticks) works quite well as a supplemental hangar - you just need an appropriate support frame somewhere above the pipe that you can wrap the wire around before coming back down under the pipe. Also, bear in mind that stainless-steel zip ties are actually a thing that exist, and can work wonders in situations like this. I took an empty cat-food can and cut off the bottom, then cut a slit in one side, then rolled it up like a scroll to make a big bit of springy metal. Using a steel zip tie to hold it on, I was able to put it underneath an exhaust pipe where it crossed over the frame as an anti-vibration shock absorber. If you were to do something similar, except putting the "spring" on *top* of the pipe, it could work well. Key is to size it so that it has to compress a little just to squeeze between the pipe and underframe normally, *then* run the wire around the pipe and frame and twist it tight with pliers - the idea here being that the spring prevents motion upward, and the wire support prevents motion downward. It is definitely redneck as all hell, but trust me when I say the redneck solutions are sometimes much more durable than buying a new $100 factory or aftermarket part that will just fail in the exact same way as before - as you've discovered!
Looks like the support bracket is shot. If I'm not mistaken & remember correctly. I think the rubber inside the mount/hanger is cracked or u lost some of it. That should be full of rubber & hard to move. Built more like you would see with a top engine mount on many Front-wheel-drive cars.
That is a possibility. Bought that one to replace the old one but it was also used (get what you pay for) and not really any better. Replacing my engine mounts now and will probably replace that hanger as well
The hose clamp here is just to support the bracket, not really to cover the hole. I have tried that route already with no luck, the bracket itself keeps getting ripped off somehow. Cheap exhaust, bad welds, or some other issue I can't figure out.
It cracked because it’s being heated then rapidly cooled bye the atmosphere you should have used wire mesh and 3 layers of bond then wrap it or cover with foil tape also on the first layer over the mesh use a few metal wires and wrap them around the pipe this may stop it from cracking so much
I appreciate the feedback. I actually figured out that I had the catalytic converter on upside down, so the flange angles were wrong and pulling the pipe down, putting a lot of pressure on the bracket. These fixes were only temporary and I solved the true cause of the issue. If you want to see a little more on that, you can check out this video! ruclips.net/video/UKEGspXFM_U/видео.html
No I haven't used the quick steel again, but it definitely seemed to do its job the first time, the cracking seen in this video was due to excessive movement, too much pressure from the upside down cat, and possibly the rapid heating and cooling like you mentioned. So the product worked as advertised, just was used under the wrong conditions. I still have the piece of exhaust with that on it and I can't even get it off, so it's definitely strong. I would recommend it if instructions are followed and used in a manner in which it was intended
But it wont work on a exhaust gas recirculation EGR tube line or any other high temperature product just in case you and up with a crack tube line i had mine welded 93 rangers EGR tube line are hard to find
Yea it seems pretty brittle, but from what I can tell it held up to the heat. Just wouldn't use it on anything that has movement at all. JB weld has a similar product with extreme heat rating up to 2400°F I might try
@@walker.projects i did use high temperature jb weld but it got toast burn right off the pipe is to thin thats why i got it weld it's just a temporary fix till i find the pipe
@@Smurf51766 I'm sure under normal conditions it would have been fine, but since my motor mounts and exhaust hanger is bad, there was excessive movement and vibrating against the subframe, so it did crack
9:21-24 DEBRIS BLOWN, please check the spot on the other./inner side of the repair clean & apply some to completely seal your joint; I did not see you treat the other side of your repair/liquid weld joint/pipe.
It looks like that's just some normal dust floating around or something, the way the hole in the pipe was, it wasn't open on the other side, it was just starting to kind of "peel" the weld off and was only about halfway off. This stuff actually did work for a while, and if the exhaust was mounted correctly would probably still be doing its job. But if you watch my most recent video titled "Replacing motor mounts on my 1993 Toyota corolla DX (ae102)" I figured out what was causing that to happen and solved the issue. HINT: it's not the motor mounts lol ruclips.net/video/UKEGspXFM_U/видео.html
Thanks for the tip! With this particular leak I have tried everything with no luck, there is a greater problem at play here causing the the hanger to rip off in the first place. Just gotta figure that out first
Sí, descubrí que tenía el convertidor catalítico al revés, lo que hacía que el ángulo fuera demasiado duro y ejercía demasiada presión sobre el soporte.
If you like watching videos about this car, this is a link to my Corolla playlist! ruclips.net/p/PLkb6XJosp-PdcDKF1dC5dsgT4lG-AjUOU
Check your motor mounts, they might need to be changed. If they are bad then your engine would rock back and forth slightly under load causing the bracket to fail over time
Yea that's what I've been thinking the issue is. Would cause it to sit slightly lower too which is probably why it likes to rest on the sub frame. I plan on replacing those while I'm in there doing the oil pump sometime soon
Excellent, now I can work on my next invention
sup nerd it's your guitarist here. it looks like the exhaust just needs to be supported better. the bracket itself is a bad design from toyota, the vibrations and wear and tear will cause it to crack, but if it were supported better by subsequent brackets to keep it from bouncing around so much you will probably get better results.
I agree. The only other hangers are all the way back at the muffler. That's why I'm trying to use some heat resistant silicone to help support it for now until I can replace the whole thing and maybe do a custom job to make it right. That's what I get for being cheap and buying a $100 exhaust lol
@@walker.projects As someone who's had to glue old vehicle's exhaust systems back together himself I can attest that a heavy-duty wire (I used electric fencing wire because I'm a redneck in the sticks) works quite well as a supplemental hangar - you just need an appropriate support frame somewhere above the pipe that you can wrap the wire around before coming back down under the pipe.
Also, bear in mind that stainless-steel zip ties are actually a thing that exist, and can work wonders in situations like this. I took an empty cat-food can and cut off the bottom, then cut a slit in one side, then rolled it up like a scroll to make a big bit of springy metal. Using a steel zip tie to hold it on, I was able to put it underneath an exhaust pipe where it crossed over the frame as an anti-vibration shock absorber. If you were to do something similar, except putting the "spring" on *top* of the pipe, it could work well. Key is to size it so that it has to compress a little just to squeeze between the pipe and underframe normally, *then* run the wire around the pipe and frame and twist it tight with pliers - the idea here being that the spring prevents motion upward, and the wire support prevents motion downward.
It is definitely redneck as all hell, but trust me when I say the redneck solutions are sometimes much more durable than buying a new $100 factory or aftermarket part that will just fail in the exact same way as before - as you've discovered!
Looks like the support bracket is shot.
If I'm not mistaken & remember correctly.
I think the rubber inside the
mount/hanger is cracked or u lost some of it. That should be full of rubber & hard to move.
Built more like you would see with a top engine mount on many Front-wheel-drive cars.
That is a possibility. Bought that one to replace the old one but it was also used (get what you pay for) and not really any better. Replacing my engine mounts now and will probably replace that hanger as well
ATP 205 RESEAL - PERFORMS GREAT RUBBER TREATMENT/REJUVENATION.
get you a band clamp and wrap it around your exhaust pipe it will give you more coverage than a hose clamp.
The hose clamp here is just to support the bracket, not really to cover the hole. I have tried that route already with no luck, the bracket itself keeps getting ripped off somehow. Cheap exhaust, bad welds, or some other issue I can't figure out.
Used some on my Harley exhaust heat shield bracket
It cracked because it’s being heated then rapidly cooled bye the atmosphere you should have used wire mesh and 3 layers of bond then wrap it or cover with foil tape also on the first layer over the mesh use a few metal wires and wrap them around the pipe this may stop it from cracking so much
I appreciate the feedback. I actually figured out that I had the catalytic converter on upside down, so the flange angles were wrong and pulling the pipe down, putting a lot of pressure on the bracket. These fixes were only temporary and I solved the true cause of the issue. If you want to see a little more on that, you can check out this video! ruclips.net/video/UKEGspXFM_U/видео.html
@@walker.projects did you end up using it again and did it work?
No I haven't used the quick steel again, but it definitely seemed to do its job the first time, the cracking seen in this video was due to excessive movement, too much pressure from the upside down cat, and possibly the rapid heating and cooling like you mentioned. So the product worked as advertised, just was used under the wrong conditions. I still have the piece of exhaust with that on it and I can't even get it off, so it's definitely strong. I would recommend it if instructions are followed and used in a manner in which it was intended
But it wont work on a exhaust gas recirculation EGR tube line or any other high temperature product just in case you and up with a crack tube line i had mine welded 93 rangers EGR tube line are hard to find
Yea it seems pretty brittle, but from what I can tell it held up to the heat. Just wouldn't use it on anything that has movement at all. JB weld has a similar product with extreme heat rating up to 2400°F I might try
@@walker.projects i did use high temperature jb weld but it got toast burn right off the pipe is to thin thats why i got it weld it's just a temporary fix till i find the pipe
Yea I need to invest in a welder for sure
@@walker.projects i went to a muffler shop and had it weld for 15.00
Damn that's not bad at all
Is this better than jb weld extream heat?
I have never tried that, but from what I can tell it seems like the same stuff.
@@walker.projects how well is it holding up ?
@@Smurf51766 I'm sure under normal conditions it would have been fine, but since my motor mounts and exhaust hanger is bad, there was excessive movement and vibrating against the subframe, so it did crack
9:21-24 DEBRIS BLOWN, please check the spot on the other./inner side of the repair clean & apply some to completely seal your joint; I did not see you treat the other side of your repair/liquid weld joint/pipe.
It looks like that's just some normal dust floating around or something, the way the hole in the pipe was, it wasn't open on the other side, it was just starting to kind of "peel" the weld off and was only about halfway off. This stuff actually did work for a while, and if the exhaust was mounted correctly would probably still be doing its job. But if you watch my most recent video titled "Replacing motor mounts on my 1993 Toyota corolla DX (ae102)" I figured out what was causing that to happen and solved the issue. HINT: it's not the motor mounts lol ruclips.net/video/UKEGspXFM_U/видео.html
High hopes!!
get you a piece of paper while its running and you can see if and where you have a leak, or try exhaust bandage
Thanks for the tip! With this particular leak I have tried everything with no luck, there is a greater problem at play here causing the the hanger to rip off in the first place. Just gotta figure that out first
Check your motor mounts
ruclips.net/video/UKEGspXFM_U/видео.htmlsi=7Gfpar2yefrOtu5w
Creo que el tubo pega en algo icuandovibre ba desgastando el metal i ase el agujero
Sí, descubrí que tenía el convertidor catalítico al revés, lo que hacía que el ángulo fuera demasiado duro y ejercía demasiada presión sobre el soporte.
Watch on 1.75 X fast
Yea sorry, I'm new to this a new to editing lol