I have no evidence to support this, but my gut feeling is that, throughout history, the blacksmith would have taken that little bit of extra time and effort to get his tools looking 'just so'. The main reason being pride in his work, but also as an advert to all visitors, which served to demonstrate his capabilities and skill. Toolmaking does not put bread on the table on that particular day, but taking time to do a good all round job of it, delays the time that the tool needs replacing or repairing. I know that, for myself, this approach in self made tools reduces the temptation to abuse or misuse them, as a shortcut for a perceived short term gain. ...... or is this just all my 'modern day' indoctrination ?? A great series of videos. I very much wish that you would make more of them. Your presentation and detailed narration are among the best on youtube..... Thank You Rowan !
Sir, I feel very fortunate that I stumbled upon your channel. I am looking forward to many hours of entertainment and education watching your earlier videos, and, I hope, many more in the future. Forge on, brother. From Tacoma, Washington, USA
You also have to chant (in a loud voice) the magic saxon, gaelic, french, and greek 4 letter words to call forth the melding spirits of the semi-molten fire, earth, wind, and water from Hades and Uranus. It's part of the ritual time immemorial. It helps if you can release some of the magic smoke from your tender human flesh, while you are at it, you know for the sacrificial bit.
Dropping the project and or tools on the floor is customary. It ensures the project is down to earth, which beats being 'over your head' which can be quite dangerous. Very nicely done!
Thank you, Drason :) and indeed things will always drop! Especially if you are using the wrong tongs for the job. The weld still went in beautifully though. Generally projects go "overhead" after something goes wrong at the end of a long and frustrating day and although my patience has grown immensely in the past ten years there are still a few dents in the wall to show that occasionally my temper will get the better of me!
Excellent work. I actually saw this video a while ago and revisited it today. I never left a comment, so now I do. It is very good to see high quality work coupled with a real understanding of archaeology!
Exelent!!!!!!! i look forward to all of your videos,the historicle aspect of your projects,the calm and thorough way you make your presentation is outstanding.You give hope to history buffs who wish to try making something with just our hands and imagination.THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Brilliant work it's fascinating to see the old ways of forging item's. I would do this but I can find wrought iron if my life depended on it, so I'll just do with mild then weld (fire weld) some railway track webbing on it. Ah yeah you deserve a sub for effort and a like. All the best Paddy
Indeed! Though this would have most likely have been an itinerant smith's anvil so needed to be a bit lighter. ferrous Anvils remained small by our standards pretty much up until the dawn of the industrial revolution - though they did have a growth spurt in the 12th century-ish. Bigger anvils were available but tended to me made from stone!
Great video, very inspiring. I noticed that your anvil wobbles a lot. Isn't that a waste of kinetic energy? I always took great care to mount my anvils on a sturdy base.
Nice work as usual. I'm not sure if you take project requests but if like to see someone make a medieval swallow tail broadhead. I've seen videos of people making bodkin points and standard broadheads but not a swallow tail. I believe they were made by forge welding the cutting edge onto a socket.
Thanks Dustin :) I do make the type 25 swallowtail heads but it took me months to refine the technique so I'm going to keep it to myself a little longer ;)
Why did you not drop into the hardy hole for the heavy strikes when welding the face? Bit less aggravating dropping on the floor maybe. Or is my question a bit of "hind site 20/20"? Thanks for the video
Good question. I deliberately avoided the hardy because I didn't want to create a shoulder in the taper as it would have been hard to get out without creating a gall. If I were making a hardy tool then I would have used the hardy but because of the shape of the anglo saxon anvil it wasn't a practical solution.
Mr. Taylor, what are your primary sources for all your historic replica projects? Just good ol' Google or a dedicated reference? (Also, enlightening work as always!)
Thanks Griffin :) For the Anglo-Saxon stuff I have a lot of archaeological reports and books on the subject. The Academia website is a good source for papers written by experts as well (I create Anglo-Saxon ironwork outside of RUclips as well). Google is a bit hit and miss for a lot of the projects I do as I tend to go for things with little reference material.
I really like the projects you take on, the variety of work is amazing, I always look forward to the next weeks video, they are a real window on the past, well done. Any chance of seeing that finished scythe and what type of snath it would be attached to?
Thanks Phil :) It was my intention to mount the scythe originally but the only snathes I could find were aluminium and designed for specific blades. I considered making one but I couldn't spare the extra day, sadly. At some point I will make a far better scythe and mount it properly though.
alrighty my friend another awesome video by the way if it falls off the forge it called drop forging wish we had great files like that one in the states think most are case hardened crap especially that thick love the old school tool just seem to be more pleasing to the eye keep up the great work
The modern ones over here are case-hardened as well, so I tend to use old ones which I pick-up at car-boots and flea markets for dirt cheap. I'll then use them to death and when the teeth are gone I'll turn them into something else. I find that the old rasps and files are nicer to fireweld than leaf-spring as well.
So, what do you suppose they would have done to make something like that when they didn't have a nice flat surface to work on like that lovely modern anvil you have? Like, the "first" steel anvil they made. Do you think they might have just gotten it as flat as they could using an anvil stone, then ground away at it until it was good and flat, and made other anvils using that?
I believe there are several anecdotes and some anecdotal evidence of stone being used as an anvil. plenty of stones are hard enough and heat resistant enough to be beat against. And wrought or bog iron are sufficiently fluid under hammer to allow working on a stone. I remember reading that the tuyere on forges of that era were of heat resistant stone like Granite.
Short answer is yes, that is a likely way to forge a flat surface when you don't have a flat surface to begin on. There are some areas of the world where stone anvils are still in use.
Here's a link to a book about blacksmithing in Africa. The cover of the edition I have shows an African smith using a stone anvil and a stone sledge to forge a piece of iron. www.amazon.com/Mande-Blacksmiths-Knowledge-Africa-Traditional/dp/0253207983/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480303722&sr=8-1&keywords=the+mande+blacksmiths
been watching a lot of your videos and been learning so much from the so I wbt to thank you for that. could younplease make a video of how to forge one of these hewing axes like autine builds them
Silver Break this flux is a mix of sand and borax. the sand provides a layer of molten silica which stops oxygen from damaging the high carbon steel while the borax dissolves the firescale thus allowing for a better weld.
Seems to me that you somehow have an endless supply of wrought iron paddle rod from the 18th century lying about. I, myself found a bit of wrought iron in the form of a gigantic bolt...or axle (about 1-1/2 in dia by 10in with a round rivet-like head) near home (25mi southwest of Chicago) as my hometown is a historic 19th century quarrying town for limestone. You've just given me an idea of something to use it for...however I struggle greatly with heating larger pieces with my charcoal forge...can't find a source of bituminous coal anywhere near me and I can't justify shipping charges for 100# bags all the way from Pennsylvania. I've yet to find a RUclips blacksmith who only uses hardwood charcoal...the principal forging fuel throughout all history until coal was discovered...frustrating really. Alas, great work man, I always love your demonstrations and occasional British humor!
Have you considered using gas? (propane that is, not gasoline) although it may limit you a bit on size and shape of your stock is more available than charcoal and will probably save you money over time
I have considered it...and considered that I'd have to build a completely different forge. With solid fuel, I can use the same forge which I proudly built from scratch. My first forge was a coffee can forge using a little propane cylinder, I kept it around for a while and for kicks I used it recently to make a half-way decent knife but it took a veritable eternity to heat up the material and I was never able to get it hot enough for heat treating...had to light up my charcoal forge to treat it. I have thrown about the idea of trying a small gas forge again now that I have some extra cerablanket lying about - just scaling the size up to a 1 gallon paint can...we'll see how it goes. Cheers! - J
It doesn't need to be so old, wrought iron (puddle iron) coexisted with modern processes for a long time. In great Britain the last manufacturer using the puddle proces only closed in the 1950's.
Contact these people to find coal: ILLINOIS VALLEY BLACKSMITH ASSOCIATIONwww.illinoisblacksmith.org UPPER MIDWEST BLACKSMITHS ASSOCIATIONwww.umbaonline.ning.com
I have no evidence to support this, but my gut feeling is that, throughout history, the blacksmith would have taken that little bit of extra time and effort to get his tools looking 'just so'. The main reason being pride in his work, but also as an advert to all visitors, which served to demonstrate his capabilities and skill. Toolmaking does not put bread on the table on that particular day, but taking time to do a good all round job of it, delays the time that the tool needs replacing or repairing. I know that, for myself, this approach in self made tools reduces the temptation to abuse or misuse them, as a shortcut for a perceived short term gain. ...... or is this just all my 'modern day' indoctrination ??
A great series of videos. I very much wish that you would make more of them. Your presentation and detailed narration are among the best on youtube..... Thank You Rowan !
Sir, I feel very fortunate that I stumbled upon your channel. I am looking forward to many hours of entertainment and education watching your earlier videos, and, I hope, many more in the future. Forge on, brother. From Tacoma, Washington, USA
Repeatedly hurling it on the floor was a critical step in the forging of an Anglo-Saxon anvil - it's a step so many modern smiths forget.
Huh, I thought I was just clumsy, turns out I've rediscovered an ancient technique!
It's called drop-forging!
You also have to chant (in a loud voice) the magic saxon, gaelic, french, and greek 4 letter words to call forth the melding spirits of the semi-molten fire, earth, wind, and water from Hades and Uranus. It's part of the ritual time immemorial. It helps if you can release some of the magic smoke from your tender human flesh, while you are at it, you know for the sacrificial bit.
LOL, I'm good at the sacrificial smoke bit, as well as the magic words of power.
Ah yes, the Saxon Deity of craftsmen everywhere, the mighty 'Bloodysoddingbuggerit'.
Stunningly beautiful shots of when it was super hot and you could see the flame coming off the anvil! My favourite video so far!
Dropping the project and or tools on the floor is customary. It ensures the project is down to earth, which beats being 'over your head' which can be quite dangerous. Very nicely done!
Thank you, Drason :) and indeed things will always drop! Especially if you are using the wrong tongs for the job. The weld still went in beautifully though. Generally projects go "overhead" after something goes wrong at the end of a long and frustrating day and although my patience has grown immensely in the past ten years there are still a few dents in the wall to show that occasionally my temper will get the better of me!
RT,
Another well documented and narrated episode. Really like the historic anecdotes that illuminate more than just the forging process!
Thanks!
AAR
Nice piece Mate! I am enjoying the historic projects. Keep it up.
Thanks mate :) They are my favourite thing to do!
Excellent work. I actually saw this video a while ago and revisited it today. I never left a comment, so now I do. It is very good to see high quality work coupled with a real understanding of archaeology!
Exelent!!!!!!! i look forward to all of your videos,the historicle aspect of your projects,the calm and thorough way you make your presentation is outstanding.You give hope to history buffs who wish to try making something with just our hands and imagination.THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Amazing, as always.. You always do the most interesting projects
Thanks mate :)
another great video Rowan looking forward to the next one
Thanks Colin :)
Brilliant work it's fascinating to see the old ways of forging item's. I would do this but I can find wrought iron if my life depended on it, so I'll just do with mild then weld (fire weld) some railway track webbing on it. Ah yeah you deserve a sub for effort and a like.
All the best Paddy
Another great video! Can't wait for the next one.
Thanks Nathan :)
looking good, this is definitely something I'm going to try, minus the wrought iron. Always handy to have a few stake anvils knocking around!
Thanks mate :) Indeed they are handy and I have a few dotted about the forge myself! Good luck!
We have become quite spoiled by the size of our "modern" anvils.
Indeed! Though this would have most likely have been an itinerant smith's anvil so needed to be a bit lighter. ferrous Anvils remained small by our standards pretty much up until the dawn of the industrial revolution - though they did have a growth spurt in the 12th century-ish. Bigger anvils were available but tended to me made from stone!
The point you make about price is truer than true. These anvils are key.
never had a big anvil
They didn't suffer from anvil envy, plus there probably wasn't a need for metal objects large enough to warrant making one.
Great video, very inspiring.
I noticed that your anvil wobbles a lot. Isn't that a waste of kinetic energy?
I always took great care to mount my anvils on a sturdy base.
recommendation for your production pieces, when upsetting and welding the face on try using the hardy hole to keep it in place
Nice work as usual. I'm not sure if you take project requests but if like to see someone make a medieval swallow tail broadhead. I've seen videos of people making bodkin points and standard broadheads but not a swallow tail. I believe they were made by forge welding the cutting edge onto a socket.
Thanks Dustin :) I do make the type 25 swallowtail heads but it took me months to refine the technique so I'm going to keep it to myself a little longer ;)
RowanTaylor so your saying there is a chance 😉
Why did you not drop into the hardy hole for the heavy strikes when welding the face? Bit less aggravating dropping on the floor maybe. Or is my question a bit of "hind site 20/20"? Thanks for the video
Good question. I deliberately avoided the hardy because I didn't want to create a shoulder in the taper as it would have been hard to get out without creating a gall. If I were making a hardy tool then I would have used the hardy but because of the shape of the anglo saxon anvil it wasn't a practical solution.
Mr. Taylor, what are your primary sources for all your historic replica projects? Just good ol' Google or a dedicated reference?
(Also, enlightening work as always!)
Thanks Griffin :) For the Anglo-Saxon stuff I have a lot of archaeological reports and books on the subject. The Academia website is a good source for papers written by experts as well (I create Anglo-Saxon ironwork outside of RUclips as well). Google is a bit hit and miss for a lot of the projects I do as I tend to go for things with little reference material.
I really like the projects you take on, the variety of work is amazing, I always look forward to the next weeks video, they are a real window on the past, well done. Any chance of seeing that finished scythe and what type of snath it would be attached to?
Thanks Phil :) It was my intention to mount the scythe originally but the only snathes I could find were aluminium and designed for specific blades. I considered making one but I couldn't spare the extra day, sadly. At some point I will make a far better scythe and mount it properly though.
alrighty my friend another awesome video by the way if it falls off the forge it called drop forging wish we had great files like that one in the states think most are case hardened crap especially that thick love the old school tool just seem to be more pleasing to the eye keep up the great work
It looked like an old farrier's hoof rasp to me. Lots of the old rusty ones around. No idea if the new ones are made from decent steel or not.
The modern ones over here are case-hardened as well, so I tend to use old ones which I pick-up at car-boots and flea markets for dirt cheap. I'll then use them to death and when the teeth are gone I'll turn them into something else. I find that the old rasps and files are nicer to fireweld than leaf-spring as well.
what kind of hammer did you use in the beginning? it looked like a ball pein but it was flat on the top and bottom?
Whats that white powder youre put oover your metall?
So, what do you suppose they would have done to make something like that when they didn't have a nice flat surface to work on like that lovely modern anvil you have? Like, the "first" steel anvil they made. Do you think they might have just gotten it as flat as they could using an anvil stone, then ground away at it until it was good and flat, and made other anvils using that?
I believe there are several anecdotes and some anecdotal evidence of stone being used as an anvil. plenty of stones are hard enough and heat resistant enough to be beat against. And wrought or bog iron are sufficiently fluid under hammer to allow working on a stone. I remember reading that the tuyere on forges of that era were of heat resistant stone like Granite.
Well, yes, but I'm talking about creating a flat surface on the anvil they made.
Short answer is yes, that is a likely way to forge a flat surface when you don't have a flat surface to begin on. There are some areas of the world where stone anvils are still in use.
Thanks.
Here's a link to a book about blacksmithing in Africa. The cover of the edition I have shows an African smith using a stone anvil and a stone sledge to forge a piece of iron.
www.amazon.com/Mande-Blacksmiths-Knowledge-Africa-Traditional/dp/0253207983/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480303722&sr=8-1&keywords=the+mande+blacksmiths
What are your plans if any about that nasty crack in your post vise?
Can the body be mild steel with better steel forge welded as face?
Yes of course it can, that would be the modern interpretation of the old ways.
been watching a lot of your videos and been learning so much from the so I wbt to thank you for that. could younplease make a video of how to forge one of these hewing axes like autine builds them
Methinks I will try this for my first pioneering forge...ry....
???
Does that even sound normal ???
LOL
what do the flux do?
Silver Break this flux is a mix of sand and borax. the sand provides a layer of molten silica which stops oxygen from damaging the high carbon steel while the borax dissolves the firescale thus allowing for a better weld.
RowanTaylor okey now i know. Thanks
3:30 am in the morning, on a Monday. Why am I watching this?
Seems to me that you somehow have an endless supply of wrought iron paddle rod from the 18th century lying about. I, myself found a bit of wrought iron in the form of a gigantic bolt...or axle (about 1-1/2 in dia by 10in with a round rivet-like head) near home (25mi southwest of Chicago) as my hometown is a historic 19th century quarrying town for limestone. You've just given me an idea of something to use it for...however I struggle greatly with heating larger pieces with my charcoal forge...can't find a source of bituminous coal anywhere near me and I can't justify shipping charges for 100# bags all the way from Pennsylvania. I've yet to find a RUclips blacksmith who only uses hardwood charcoal...the principal forging fuel throughout all history until coal was discovered...frustrating really. Alas, great work man, I always love your demonstrations and occasional British humor!
Have you considered using gas? (propane that is, not gasoline) although it may limit you a bit on size and shape of your stock is more available than charcoal and will probably save you money over time
I have considered it...and considered that I'd have to build a completely different forge. With solid fuel, I can use the same forge which I proudly built from scratch.
My first forge was a coffee can forge using a little propane cylinder, I kept it around for a while and for kicks I used it recently to make a half-way decent knife but it took a veritable eternity to heat up the material and I was never able to get it hot enough for heat treating...had to light up my charcoal forge to treat it.
I have thrown about the idea of trying a small gas forge again now that I have some extra cerablanket lying about - just scaling the size up to a 1 gallon paint can...we'll see how it goes.
Cheers!
- J
It doesn't need to be so old, wrought iron (puddle iron) coexisted with modern processes for a long time. In great Britain the last manufacturer using the puddle proces only closed in the 1950's.
Contact these people to find coal: ILLINOIS VALLEY BLACKSMITH ASSOCIATIONwww.illinoisblacksmith.org
UPPER MIDWEST BLACKSMITHS ASSOCIATIONwww.umbaonline.ning.com
Uses anvil to make anvil
It's.... it's.... IT'S BEAUTIFUL