This the Finest Technical instruction video for Honda distributor repair. Very Professional and highly Informative with outstanding detail. You are an excellent technical instructor. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
My neighbor has a D16Z6 engine in a 95 Civic. Your video was a perfect match in resolving his leaking oil problem. Less than $15.00 for the repair and no more drips. You made the whole repair process so simple with your great video. Thank you so much for your help.
I finally got everything working and started my engine. its been about 4 days and no oil leaks yet so mission accomplished. I wanna thank you for this video, it has saved me lots of money! thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial. I went into a local repair shop to have a sensor replaced which should have cost me a couple hundred dollars. They called me and told me that my distributor seal, inner, was leaking and was a real fire danger. They wanted to charge me $550 for a new distributor, I talked them down a hundred and a half or so, and I guess I still got screwed. The owner of this repair shop has his own tv show locally and is always talking about how folks get cheated at repair shops; I guess he's an expert because he is so good at cheating his own customers.
If it was an OE Honda distributor they are around 330 from the dealer. If it was a cheaper aftermarket from $90-$130 (which I wouldn't recommend) that price is way too high. The aftermarket distributors just don't seem to last as long. You're better off getting a used OE one if you can't afford new. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! I have that exact year & model Honda and the exact oil from the distributor. I was quoted $425 to repair it and now I know how to fix it. Thank you for that clearly explained video with clear video & pictures. Thanks man!
Awesome video, I just followed it successfully! One note: the screws are easily stripped by PH2 phillips drivers. My brother realized they're Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) #1 and #2 screws. JIS screws can (usually) be identified by a single raised dot, next to the screw slot. I stripped out my rotor screw and to remove it had to break the dust cover to hacksaw a flathead into it. Next time I'll get some JIS drivers and save myself a $4 part delivered to my local dealership. Regardless, I really appreciate this clear and easy guide!
I found out about them a year ago many people understandably don't even know they exist. Unfortunately the dot doesn't seem to be a standard I have found JIS fasteners without it. But my rule of thumb is if it doesn't have a dot, the head isn't stripped, and all of my Phillips drivers fit like crap then it's a JIS. You can buy a 1/4" bit set from Vessel tools (Made In Japan) for under 4 bucks part number A-16621 (P1, P2, and P3) or A-16479 (PO, P1, and P2). If anyone is interested in a decent set. If you push hard enough you usually can get away with it but if the fastener is really tight you can round it out. JIS unlike Phillips doesn't cam out (slip) when too much torque is applied. The most common cause of stripped Phillips screws (cam out) was an intentional design feature to prevent over tightening if you can believe that.
I cannot thank you enough for this video -- my distributor continued to leak oil into the cap after the dealer allegedly fixed it. Sure enough, inner O ring. $12 and two hours later, I have this squared away. Wouldn't have tried it were it not for this video! Indispensable resource!
Just did this repair on my 1997 accord se. Thank you so much for this video. You made it easy for me. One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Thanks
I successfully completed this job thanks to your video so a huge thank you goes to Bushougoma. A little tip for others that are going to try this...my rotor was yellow and I had a hell of a time getting it off. (Bushougoma takes his off with relative ease at 4:08). I took the whole distributor off first and had to take a rubber mallet to the rotor hiting it through a bit, then hit it back from the other side. Then it finally popped off. My internal seal was also completely shot and was a bit different from the one in this video - it had a flat piece of metal inside the seal itself rather than that metal circular spring looking thing. Make sure to use the correct size phillips head screwdriver for the last 4 screws as I stripped one of mine (seen in video at 14:32) and it made it a lot harder to get the seal off because the whole assembly was dangling with the wire, but nonetheless I was able to complete this job in about 4 or 5 hours after all was said and done (I also changed the lower coolant hose as mentioned at 7:42 ...I got that at Napa for about $20 (I needed to have it done that day, but this part can be found online for much cheaper). The seals cost me only a few dollars off of Rockauto.com. I did it yesterday and not a drop of oil is leaking after taking old Rhonda out for a spin...thanks again Bushougoma!
My 94 Honda Accord's distributor is leaking (outer leak). It's nice to get a visual of what the mechanic is going to do to my Snow (her name) :) Thank so much for the detailed video!
thank u, After watching this great video I repaired a 2000 Honda Accord. I also replaced the distributor cap gasket which was oil damaged. Your warning on oil damaged heater hose was excellent preventive maintenance. It helped me prepare by buying 2ft of 5/8in interior-diameter heater hose for $4. The formed hose cost $17 and an unnecessary loop in it.
Bushougoma - Thank you very much for taking the time to show and explain the entire process. Also thank you for posting the part #'s for the two different types of distributors. Thanks to you I was able to buy the correct seals and installed them.!!! NO MORE OIL LEAKS!!!
I just got done replacing the internal seal and outer O-Ring. Also did the Valve Cover Gasket job, replaced spark plugs and wires as well. All thanks to the two videos of yours. And guess what... The Heater Hose underneath the distributor popped open while I was testing it after the repair. And now I'm ordering the hose and watching your other video to get ready for that one. Lol
Well at least it didn't pop while you were on the road. Try to look on the bright side :-). You may be able to avoid removing the distributor again if you can turn the ears of the spring clamp on the engine side of the hose with a screwdriver so you can access it from the side. The hose is sandwiched between the distributor body and the transmission bell housing.
I know I was glad to be just in my driveway, I think I'll just take the distributor back off, its quite simple now that I've done it a couple times. Again, I appreciate the videos they're very helpful!
BLESS YOU, BUSHOUGOMA!!! This was a fantastic help, it made the job trivial! I've had an external and internal distributor leak in my 1997 Honda Accord SE 2.2l for quite some time. I finally got sick of leaving oil spots wherever I park and started to tackle the leaks one by one...did the valve cover gasket twice, the second time seems to be working. But then noticed oil around the distributor and was like WTF? Very glad to have your video to help solve this. Also replaced heater hose...
Thanks for posting these videos man, helping me keep the wife's 94 EX on the road. Comments are helpful too, in the video you just unsnap the wiring harnesses like its nothing, i wrestled with the wifes for over an hour then read the comment about metal bracket. Durrrr
I have a semi bad oil leak and oil all down the engine all under the Distributor. THANK YOU so much for this video, After watching this Video i ordered every new part you did.
Great video and information. FYI !!! It is possible to reinstall the distributor 180 degrees out. I figured this out after an hour of troubleshooting. Took it off, turned the dist end 180 degrees and reattached. Fired right up.
I did the same thing, too! I came here to post a comment letting people know it can happen but you beat me. I don't feel quite so bad now, either! Haha.
Thanx, major help putting my mind at ease for dist reinstall. Figured it was a one way only key, so if you're just pulling it to get to other work you don't really even need to pull the cap if you're pressed for time.
Can't thank you enough for these videos - EXTREMELY well done and so incredibly helpful. With your video guidance, I've been inspired to try repairs I never would have had the confidence to do before. Thank you VERY much!!!
Thank you for making this video. I have a 1993 Honda Civic Ex which should be very similar in regards to the repair process. I noticed today that I have a little oil inside of the distributor cap and oil underneath the distributor leaking on to the transmission. I am now confident on replacing the o-rings.
Excellent video, just used it to repair my Mom's Civic and like you pointed out the heater hose had a bubble in it from the oil leak, replaced it as well.
Excellent hands on video and very informative. I noticed while changing the oil in my 94 Accord that it’s distributor is starting to seep. And thanks for the heads up on the heater hose info. I need to watch that video as well. Take care!
Thanks for the reply, I might just have to get a spare one and slowly do it right. The oil slowly made it way to the dizzy cap and wore out the rubber o-ring of the cap. I just want this thing fixed!
Job complete. Interior seal leaking and external seal hardened. Did notice shiny groove in shaft where it turned in internal seal, will keep eye on it to see if it leaks again. Thanks again for video.
Great video. I just bought a Hitachi distributor for an 89 accord from the local pull a part.. and the oil seal is very similar. Thanks for uploading it.
I am so glad I found your channel and a few others working on this gen accord. It's running like new again thanks to many of your videos! I just had this problem recently and you even have a full video covering that inner leak! Thanks so much!
Great video with detail explanation! This vid is just what I needed and now feel confident to tackle this procedure. Thanks and great job. Keep them coming.
I made it fit but it bugged me so I found the Hitachi seal that has the same numbers (which are the seal size numbers) here. It fit perfectly but I couldn't have done this job without your great video! I found the seal online at Red's Auto Rehab.(they also carry the NOK seal.)
I checked wires and everything was plugged up correctly. I got the car running now. I believe that I initially didn't secure my wires and flooded the engine attempting to get it started. I rolled it down a hill to get it towed and started it just before getting it on the tow truck. I believe I flooded teh engine because I got a large black cloud once it got started. Running great now thanks.
very good and detailed. I had the same issue of oil leaking after replacing the out o ring. Thru this video, am no able to fix that leak. very annoying... Thanks bro
Thank you Bushougoma. This was very helpful and I appreciate you posting this video with all this detail. It helped me understand exactly what was needed on my 95 Honda. Many Thanks.
i did, yes. i opened up the distributor again and did find oil inside of it. it is a tec distributor (it actually says "tec" right on it) so i went ahead and ordered the internal shaft seal you referenced. oddly, though there was no drain hole on the distributor cap. thanks for your help!
Great video 👍 Noticed oil has accumulated inside the distributor and the engine will crank, but will not start. I’ll troubleshoot it this weekend and also order the o-ring kit. Hope it’s a easy fix, camshaft turns while cranking meaning timing belt is still intact. Only has 30k miles since I replaced it both timing belts.
I just did mine. Thanks for the tip about marking the interface between the distributor and the cam before taking that ring off. I probably would have put it on backward otherwise. I had OBD 1 so I had more stuff in the bottom of the distributor. But I didn't have to remove any of it because my seal was 19 years old and it came off with the shaft. I just had to remove it from the shaft and push the new on in. The old one was hard as a rock no wonder it wasn't sealing anything.
These instructions are thorough. But I want to add one caveat from my own experience with this repair. I replaced the shaft and housing seals on a 95 Odyssey.The engine started and ran fine afterward. But it still showed an internal oil leak, i.e. oil up the shaft and out the cap gasket. My shaft had a groove in it that must have been cut by the original oil seal. At this point I just wrapped a paper shop towel around the distributor to soak up drips. But if you find this groove, a machine shop might be able to smooth out the shaft enough to reuse it.
A bit late to the party here, but it should be important for anyone attempting this to note: Most people tend to over-torque hardware, and this can be a disaster when you are torquing down bolts into ALUMINUM. First off, get yourself some anti-seize compound and lightly brush it onto the threads of any bolt going into aluminum, secondly, be diligent in looking up the proper torque values for the hardware you are tightening. having to ream and helicoil aluminum is no fun. Best regards, and great video.
First - great video and thanks. I have a 96 Accord EX VTEC 4 Cyl that is leaking from the distributor took it to a shop to have them change the valve cover gasket, but it's also leaking from the distributor. It's hard for to tell from where exactly. Distributor has 4 wires, so apparently Hitachi. Going to take off the cap hoping to not see oil as you mention, I'm hoping it's external an leak because there seems to be a lot that can go wrong taking apart a distributor for a novice like me
If you have a Hitachi distributor on the 2.3 you have the pressed in pin. The Tec distributors have the ring with the floating pin. But I think the Tecs were only on the DX models. Thanks For Watching.
Making no promises to anyone but when I did this on a Civic I accidentally spun the distributor lugs. It seemed I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right but when I fiddled about I discovered my distributor lugs are slightly offset so if you're gentle there is only one orientation that will insert. It makes sense really.
It sounds like you can tell which seal is broken depending on where the oil is leaking from your distributor. From what I gathered, the distributor O-ring leaks into the cap, and the internal shaft oil seal will leak into the housing. As he said, might as well replace them both while it is off, but in a pinch, one might just replace the O-ring to pass smog ASAP. The internal shaft oil seal is much harder to get to.
I've understood most things bc he is a good teacher. The part in not understanding is the reference point for the two dimples. I saw they are both vertical, but I don't know the how to line them up, or what I'm lining them up with. So how do I ensure I don't reinstall it out 180 degrees? I'm not sure what I'm marking.
I was wondering if pulling the internal oil seal in backward would make a difference, I ran it for 3 weeks now an no leaks! its a pain to take it back out! anyway Great instruction , helped me out a lot! love this guy!
Bruce Wayne Yes oil seals are directional and the flat side should be facing out when installed in the right direction. Attempting to pull it out will most likely damage it.
Bruce Wayne Can't say I've never done that before. It must have been difficult to drive it in with a socket that way. Hopefully the garter spring in the rubber channel that holds the lip of the seal to the shaft didn't get damaged. I'd just keep an eye on it if it begins to leak replace it.
thanks! i'll have to double check for that oil trail. i just did the valve cover gasket less than a year ago so unless i screwed that up it's coming from somewhere else.
He(the mechanic) try to scan the car with a device as i said and he showd me on the device, "the distirbutor replaced" thing and he said the problem is this we need to buy and change it sohe pulled out the distirbutor because to take this out and put the new one in place. Yes it is OBD II, i saw it as the video you posted.
I pulled all the wires out (including the and reconnected them. The car actually turned over, but immediately cut off. I am thinking of replacing the distributor cap rotor. Wires look fine.
Great video. I am really curious, you say that OBD 2 hondas you can't adjust timing and not to worry about distributor alignment - but I'm seeing a lot of info on adjusting the timing for my 98 CRV. Any insight here?
Mechanic said I also need to replace to hose or else it may burst as the oil was leaking on the coolant hose. Do I need to replace to hose as well or can I get away with simply replacing the the rings on the distributor to stop the leak? I guess the question is; is the hose sufficiently damaged now and needs replacing? Thanks! Awesome video--this will save me about $200.
Hi there just stumbled on video as my 92 Honda Accord is having a distributer internal leak and to fix it , it's going cost me heaps, now 1990 distributer would fit on a 1992? Thanks
when u said you dont want brake clean in your eyes i cringed..when i was 22-23 i was working on my crotch rocket..well the cylender was filled with brake clean after looking in the hole the guy bumped the engine over as i looked in..i had this bike running over 180lbs in each of 4 cyl well when it shot me in the eye i wanted to die..for 6 months i has metal and shi pulled out of my eye..almost went blind..ima safety eye glass wearing son of a gun..9 months in the bed..going blind makes you see so differntly..thankyou lord!!!!!
Great Video. It seems that the industry doesn't acknowledge the cylinder position sensor: it does have a small internal distributor wiring harness attached to it; that wires get all cracked and brittle, especially when coated with engine oil. Not sure to just use liquid tape, or go and cut and solder, more wire?
If the copper is still in good shape I would just slip some of the good heat shrink tubing over it the type with the hot glue like sealant inside to seal out moisture.
This is a great video! Thanks for posting this and the other Accord videos! I am having this exact issue with my '94 Accord EX. I am sort of mechanically inclined but have never done a repair like this. How long (time wise) should this repair take for a first timer? Will this affect the timing once I replace it? Will replacing these 2 seals fix the loss of power that I am having?
Hey Bousho, my F22B2 is leaking oil pretty bad from under the timing cover. I had the timing belt replaced a while back and they didn't replace the main crank seal while they had it apart. Lesson learned. It might be my camshaft seal too though... I had a state inspection done here in VA and they mentioned it was pretty bad. Whatever the case, any chance you have a video on these seals? I hate the thought of having to pull a new timing belt off to replace a seal, but it also can't be good to have oil dripping on the rubber belts. I'm guessing that's bad news over time. Your videos have saved me thousands of dollars over the last year. Your rock, man. Keep these coming!!!
The cam and crank seals should have been replaced preemptively during the timing belt job. It protects your investment in the parts oil exposure will destroy the belt over time. The water pump should have also been replaced if it seizes it will destroy the belt and cause serious engine damage. It's also a good idea to replace both idler pulleys too at a minimum you should spin them to check the bearings. I usually purchase a timing belt kit it includes new idler pulleys, a water pump, the timing and balancer shaft belts, and only costs around 70 bucks. The seals and valve cover gasket are the only things I have to purchase separately. Before tearing too far into the engine. Pull the valve cover off and check the gasket if it's cracked, hardened, pinched or rolled over due to an installation error especially around the timing cover area that's the source of your leak. To get to the crank seal the timing belt has to be removed again. Remove the drive belts, unbolt the power steering pump and lay it off to the side, remove the valve cover, remove the crank pulley, remove the upper and lower timing covers, loosen the timing belt adjusting nut and remove the 2 belts, then you can remove the sprocket on the crank to get to the seal. The cam sprocket is just secured with 1 bolt and it pulls off be careful not to lose it's small key. If you're just removing and not replacing the belts you don't have to remove the driver side motor mount.
***** Great advice, my friend. I'll pull the valve cover off in the next month or so and check it out. In the meantime, if I find that the leak is coming from the seals, do you happen to know the part numbers on those two? I've tried to pull the schematics up on Majestic Honda, but you know how vague the descriptions are on specific parts, I don't want to order the wrong ones if/when I need them. Aside from the cam and crank seals are there any others I should replace? I recently replaced the valve cover seal (within the last year), but I'm not opposed to dropping $20 on another one. I'm still hoping you have a vid on these badboys! :) No pressure. You rock. PS: the water pump was replaced. I don't know about the pulleys or the seals though.
4frodo Good the gasket should still be fine unless someone popped the valve cover on with it rolled over during the timing belt job. When you tighten the bolts down with a misaligned gasket it usually tears and leaves a little path for oil to leak out from. Oh another thing I forgot to mention if 2 dabs of RTV wasn't put on both sides of the camshaft hump where the gasket seals that could also cause a leak. You get used to navigating that parts database eventually as frustrating as it may be. The crank seal is under oil pump because thats the part it's pressed into and the cam seal is under camshaft. I just use name brand aftermarket parts and I've never had an issue.
***** Thanks Bousho. I'll pop the valve cover off and check that I didn't screw up the RTV when I installed it. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the coming days/weeks. Keep up the good work! It's awesome that you respond to these questions. It means a lot.
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This the Finest Technical instruction video for Honda distributor repair. Very Professional and highly Informative with outstanding detail. You are an excellent technical instructor.
Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
Great coment sr. I agree with u
My neighbor has a D16Z6 engine in a 95 Civic. Your video was a perfect match in resolving his leaking oil problem. Less than $15.00 for the repair and no more drips. You made the whole repair process so simple with your great video. Thank you so much for your help.
I finally got everything working and started my engine. its been about 4 days and no oil leaks yet so mission accomplished. I wanna thank you for this video, it has saved me lots of money! thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial. I went into a local repair shop to have a sensor replaced which should have cost me a couple hundred dollars. They called me and told me that my distributor seal, inner, was leaking and was a real fire danger. They wanted to charge me $550 for a new distributor, I talked them down a hundred and a half or so, and I guess I still got screwed. The owner of this repair shop has his own tv show locally and is always talking about how folks get cheated at repair shops; I guess he's an expert because he is so good at cheating his own customers.
If it was an OE Honda distributor they are around 330 from the dealer. If it was a cheaper aftermarket from $90-$130 (which I wouldn't recommend) that price is way too high. The aftermarket distributors just don't seem to last as long. You're better off getting a used OE one if you can't afford new.
Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! I have that exact year & model Honda and the exact oil from the distributor. I was quoted $425 to repair it and now I know how to fix it. Thank you for that clearly explained video with clear video & pictures. Thanks man!
Awesome video, I just followed it successfully!
One note: the screws are easily stripped by PH2 phillips drivers. My brother realized they're Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) #1 and #2 screws. JIS screws can
(usually) be identified by a single raised dot, next to the screw slot.
I stripped out my rotor screw and to remove it had to break the dust
cover to hacksaw a flathead into it. Next time I'll get some JIS drivers and save
myself a $4 part delivered to my local dealership.
Regardless, I really appreciate this clear and easy guide!
I found out about them a year ago many people understandably don't even know they exist.
Unfortunately the dot doesn't seem to be a standard I have found JIS fasteners without it. But my rule of thumb is if it doesn't have a dot, the head isn't stripped, and all of my Phillips drivers fit like crap then it's a JIS.
You can buy a 1/4" bit set from Vessel tools (Made In Japan) for under 4 bucks part number A-16621 (P1, P2, and P3) or A-16479 (PO, P1, and P2). If anyone is interested in a decent set.
If you push hard enough you usually can get away with it but if the fastener is really tight you can round it out. JIS unlike Phillips doesn't cam out (slip) when too much torque is applied. The most common cause of stripped Phillips screws (cam out) was an intentional design feature to prevent over tightening if you can believe that.
I cannot thank you enough for this video -- my distributor continued to leak oil into the cap after the dealer allegedly fixed it. Sure enough, inner O ring. $12 and two hours later, I have this squared away. Wouldn't have tried it were it not for this video! Indispensable resource!
Just did this repair on my 1997 accord se. Thank you so much for this video. You made it easy for me. One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Thanks
I successfully completed this job thanks to your video so a huge thank you goes to Bushougoma. A little tip for others that are going to try this...my rotor was yellow and I had a hell of a time getting it off. (Bushougoma takes his off with relative ease at 4:08). I took the whole distributor off first and had to take a rubber mallet to the rotor hiting it through a bit, then hit it back from the other side. Then it finally popped off. My internal seal was also completely shot and was a bit different from the one in this video - it had a flat piece of metal inside the seal itself rather than that metal circular spring looking thing. Make sure to use the correct size phillips head screwdriver for the last 4 screws as I stripped one of mine (seen in video at 14:32) and it made it a lot harder to get the seal off because the whole assembly was dangling with the wire, but nonetheless I was able to complete this job in about 4 or 5 hours after all was said and done (I also changed the lower coolant hose as mentioned at 7:42 ...I got that at Napa for about $20 (I needed to have it done that day, but this part can be found online for much cheaper). The seals cost me only a few dollars off of Rockauto.com. I did it yesterday and not a drop of oil is leaking after taking old Rhonda out for a spin...thanks again Bushougoma!
My 94 Honda Accord's distributor is leaking (outer leak). It's nice to get a visual of what the mechanic is going to do to my Snow (her name) :) Thank so much for the detailed video!
thank u, After watching this great video I repaired a 2000 Honda Accord. I also replaced the distributor cap gasket which was oil damaged. Your warning on oil damaged heater hose was excellent preventive maintenance. It helped me prepare by buying 2ft of 5/8in interior-diameter heater hose for $4. The formed hose cost $17 and an unnecessary loop in it.
Bushougoma - Thank you very much for taking the time to show and explain the entire process. Also thank you for posting the part #'s for the two different types of distributors. Thanks to you I was able to buy the correct seals and installed them.!!! NO MORE OIL LEAKS!!!
I'm a mechanic but not a Honda guy, this video was great! Thank you so much!!
This helped so much, I was gonna go buy a new Distributor at $250 (Hitachi Distributor). You saved me so much money. I really appreciate you...
I just got done replacing the internal seal and outer O-Ring. Also did the Valve Cover Gasket job, replaced spark plugs and wires as well. All thanks to the two videos of yours. And guess what... The Heater Hose underneath the distributor popped open while I was testing it after the repair. And now I'm ordering the hose and watching your other video to get ready for that one. Lol
Well at least it didn't pop while you were on the road. Try to look on the bright side :-).
You may be able to avoid removing the distributor again if you can turn the ears of the spring clamp on the engine side of the hose with a screwdriver so you can access it from the side. The hose is sandwiched between the distributor body and the transmission bell housing.
I know I was glad to be just in my driveway, I think I'll just take the distributor back off, its quite simple now that I've done it a couple times. Again, I appreciate the videos they're very helpful!
Extremely helpful video. I did the repair without a single problem and it works like a champ. Thanks!
BLESS YOU, BUSHOUGOMA!!! This was a fantastic help, it made the job trivial! I've had an external and internal distributor leak in my 1997 Honda Accord SE 2.2l for quite some time. I finally got sick of leaving oil spots wherever I park and started to tackle the leaks one by one...did the valve cover gasket twice, the second time seems to be working. But then noticed oil around the distributor and was like WTF? Very glad to have your video to help solve this. Also replaced heater hose...
Thanks for posting these videos man, helping me keep the wife's 94 EX on the road.
Comments are helpful too, in the video you just unsnap the wiring harnesses like its nothing, i wrestled with the wifes for over an hour then read the comment about metal bracket. Durrrr
I have a semi bad oil leak and oil all down the engine all under the Distributor. THANK YOU so much for this video, After watching this Video i ordered every new part you did.
Great video and information. FYI !!! It is possible to reinstall the distributor 180 degrees out. I figured this out after an hour of troubleshooting. Took it off, turned the dist end 180 degrees and reattached. Fired right up.
did you drain all the oil first?
Oil draining is not needed to pull the dist. off.
Kevin Miller yes I discovered that 33 weeks ago lol
I did the same thing, too! I came here to post a comment letting people know it can happen but you beat me. I don't feel quite so bad now, either! Haha.
Thanx, major help putting my mind at ease for dist reinstall. Figured it was a one way only key, so if you're just pulling it to get to other work you don't really even need to pull the cap if you're pressed for time.
Can't thank you enough for these videos - EXTREMELY well done and so incredibly helpful. With your video guidance, I've been inspired to try repairs I never would have had the confidence to do before. Thank you VERY much!!!
Great job on the details and just the step by step instructions to where even the rookies could follow this and get the job done. Much appreciated..
Great job Bushougoma! I love your videos, clarity, and instructions FANTASTIC WORK MAN!
Thank you for making this video. I have a 1993 Honda Civic Ex which should be very similar in regards to the repair process. I noticed today that I have a little oil inside of the distributor cap and oil underneath the distributor leaking on to the transmission. I am now confident on replacing the o-rings.
Excellent video, just used it to repair my Mom's Civic and like you pointed out the heater hose had a bubble in it from the oil leak, replaced it as well.
Excellent hands on video and very informative. I noticed while changing the oil in my 94 Accord that it’s distributor is starting to seep. And thanks for the heads up on the heater hose info. I need to watch that video as well. Take care!
Thanks for the reply, I might just have to get a spare one and slowly do it right. The oil slowly made it way to the dizzy cap and wore out the rubber o-ring of the cap. I just want this thing fixed!
Good video. Clear instructions, closeups when necessary, and tips to keep timing and distributor lines up.
Job complete. Interior seal leaking and external seal hardened. Did notice shiny groove in shaft where it turned in internal seal, will keep eye on it to see if it leaks again. Thanks again for video.
Mine leaked.
I really can't thank you enough. Your video showed me exactly what to do, how to do and especially what to watch out for. Thank you!
I really like this video. Sounds and pictures are great. This guy really knows what he is talking about. I hope he posts more video for Honda Accord.
Great video. I just bought a Hitachi distributor for an 89 accord from the local pull a part.. and the oil seal is very similar. Thanks for uploading it.
I am so glad I found your channel and a few others working on this gen accord. It's running like new again thanks to many of your videos! I just had this problem recently and you even have a full video covering that inner leak! Thanks so much!
Great video with detail explanation! This vid is just what I needed and now feel confident to tackle this procedure. Thanks and great job. Keep them coming.
I made it fit but it bugged me so I found the Hitachi seal that has the same numbers (which are the seal size numbers) here. It fit perfectly but I couldn't have done this job without your great video! I found the seal online at Red's Auto Rehab.(they also carry the NOK seal.)
I checked wires and everything was plugged up correctly. I got the car running now. I believe that I initially didn't secure my wires and flooded the engine attempting to get it started. I rolled it down a hill to get it towed and started it just before getting it on the tow truck. I believe I flooded teh engine because I got a large black cloud once it got started. Running great now thanks.
I thought I had watched all your videos but evidently I missed this one. As usual, great job.
very good and detailed. I had the same issue of oil leaking after replacing the out o ring. Thru this video, am no able to fix that leak. very annoying...
Thanks bro
Great video a lot a help for people like me,Iam not machanic but start fixing my olds car with videos like yours.Than You,Than you.God Bless Ypu.
Thank you Bushougoma. This was very helpful and I appreciate you posting this video with all this detail. It helped me understand exactly what was needed on my 95 Honda. Many Thanks.
i did, yes. i opened up the distributor again and did find oil inside of it. it is a tec distributor (it actually says "tec" right on it) so i went ahead and ordered the internal shaft seal you referenced. oddly, though there was no drain hole on the distributor cap. thanks for your help!
Great video 👍 Noticed oil has accumulated inside the distributor and the engine will crank, but will not start. I’ll troubleshoot it this weekend and also order the o-ring kit. Hope it’s a easy fix, camshaft turns while cranking meaning timing belt is still intact. Only has 30k miles since I replaced it both timing belts.
This vid is a good one for earlier Honda 4 cylinder distributor caps too, the one I have is almost identical! Thanks for the vid :)
I just did mine. Thanks for the tip about marking the interface between the distributor and the cam before taking that ring off. I probably would have put it on backward otherwise. I had OBD 1 so I had more stuff in the bottom of the distributor. But I didn't have to remove any of it because my seal was 19 years old and it came off with the shaft. I just had to remove it from the shaft and push the new on in. The old one was hard as a rock no wonder it wasn't sealing anything.
These instructions are thorough. But I want to add one caveat from my own experience with this repair. I replaced the shaft and housing seals on a 95 Odyssey.The engine started and ran fine afterward. But it still showed an internal oil leak, i.e. oil up the shaft and out the cap gasket. My shaft had a groove in it that must have been cut by the original oil seal. At this point I just wrapped a paper shop towel around the distributor to soak up drips. But if you find this groove, a machine shop might be able to smooth out the shaft enough to reuse it.
Woot!!! just finished this job on my accord 96!! Thanks Bushougoma!!
A bit late to the party here, but it should be important for anyone attempting this to note: Most people tend to over-torque hardware, and this can be a disaster when you are torquing down bolts into ALUMINUM. First off, get yourself some anti-seize compound and lightly brush it onto the threads of any bolt going into aluminum, secondly, be diligent in looking up the proper torque values for the hardware you are tightening. having to ream and helicoil aluminum is no fun. Best regards, and great video.
Thanks, I found it was easier to put the cap and rotor on while the distributor was off the car.
First - great video and thanks.
I have a 96 Accord EX VTEC 4 Cyl that is leaking from the distributor
took it to a shop to have them change the valve cover gasket, but it's also leaking from the distributor. It's hard for to tell from where exactly. Distributor has 4 wires, so apparently Hitachi.
Going to take off the cap hoping to not see oil as you mention, I'm hoping it's external an leak because there seems to be a lot that can go wrong taking apart a distributor for a novice like me
This was an awesome video... Very informative...
Perfect video. Needs one for 2000 Accord SE. Its hard to get the pin out on the Hitachi distributor
Thanks for the great video man, you've helped me out so much. Always making things look really easy. Love the step by step..
If you have a Hitachi distributor on the 2.3 you have the pressed in pin. The Tec distributors have the ring with the floating pin. But I think the Tecs were only on the DX models.
Thanks For Watching.
Using your video.. I was successful at changing everything out. Thanks!!!
Making no promises to anyone but when I did this on a Civic I accidentally spun the distributor lugs. It seemed I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right but when I fiddled about I discovered my distributor lugs are slightly offset so if you're gentle there is only one orientation that will insert. It makes sense really.
Great video. Swapped out both O rings on my 97 accord.
Great video. Good explanation and detailed instruction. Greatly appreciated.
this is exactly what i needed to know. thank you for the video!
Going to order these parts for grandmothers car. Thought it was leaking from valve cover until I saw this and looked in distributer.
Great video with excellent tips and details. Thanks for posting.
Justamente lo que andaba buscando. A mi me sirvió muchísimo este video. Muchas gracias mi amigo
Great video... Thanks for posting and your commentary is very detailed. Thanks
Very nice and detailed video. I have this leaking so I have to do this process. Now, I'm afraid that my hose might fail on my in the road :/
It sounds like you can tell which seal is broken depending on where the oil is leaking from your distributor. From what I gathered, the distributor O-ring leaks into the cap, and the internal shaft oil seal will leak into the housing. As he said, might as well replace them both while it is off, but in a pinch, one might just replace the O-ring to pass smog ASAP. The internal shaft oil seal is much harder to get to.
Thank you for helping me keep my old 97 Honda running well - followed this repair procedure today and no more leak
I've understood most things bc he is a good teacher. The part in not understanding is the reference point for the two dimples. I saw they are both vertical, but I don't know the how to line them up, or what I'm lining them up with. So how do I ensure I don't reinstall it out 180 degrees? I'm not sure what I'm marking.
Thanks! You helped a lot of people with this video!
I was wondering if pulling the internal oil seal in backward would make a difference, I ran it for 3 weeks now an no leaks! its a pain to take it back out!
anyway Great instruction , helped me out a lot! love this guy!
Bruce Wayne Yes oil seals are directional and the flat side should be facing out when installed in the right direction. Attempting to pull it out will most likely damage it.
***** do think it will prematurely start leaking eventual leaving it like the way it is!
Bruce Wayne
Can't say I've never done that before. It must have been difficult to drive it in with a socket that way. Hopefully the garter spring in the rubber channel that holds the lip of the seal to the shaft didn't get damaged.
I'd just keep an eye on it if it begins to leak replace it.
subscribed. you speak professionally. well done.
Darn! I have internal and external leaks. Thanks for the video!
Awesome video. I'm doing this next week. Thanks!!!
Thanks for this video really informational and helpful!
thanks! i'll have to double check for that oil trail. i just did the valve cover gasket less than a year ago so unless i screwed that up it's coming from somewhere else.
Great work on the editing man! Great DIY!
Greta video, now a can fix my old honda, thanks.
damnit i just spent like 20 minutes just trying to get the snap ring off, you make it look so easy, haha.
He(the mechanic) try to scan the car with a device as i said and he showd me on the device, "the distirbutor replaced" thing and he said the problem is this we need to buy and change it sohe pulled out the distirbutor because to take this out and put the new one in place. Yes it is OBD II, i saw it as the video you posted.
great video, good camera work and detail
Thank you for the very informative vlog. More power!!!
Fantastic Video saved the day for me. Very detailed thank you for the video :)
I pulled all the wires out (including the and reconnected them. The car actually turned over, but immediately cut off. I am thinking of replacing the distributor cap rotor. Wires look fine.
Great video. I am really curious, you say that OBD 2 hondas you can't adjust timing and not to worry about distributor alignment - but I'm seeing a lot of info on adjusting the timing for my 98 CRV. Any insight here?
Mechanic said I also need to replace to hose or else it may burst as the oil was leaking on the coolant hose. Do I need to replace to hose as well or can I get away with simply replacing the the rings on the distributor to stop the leak? I guess the question is; is the hose sufficiently damaged now and needs replacing? Thanks! Awesome video--this will save me about $200.
Hi there just stumbled on video as my 92 Honda Accord is having a distributer internal leak and to fix it , it's going cost me heaps, now 1990 distributer would fit on a 1992?
Thanks
Well done tutorial. I followed it step by step which made this job a breeze. Thank you sooooo much!
when u said you dont want brake clean in your eyes i cringed..when i was 22-23 i was working on my crotch rocket..well the cylender was filled with brake clean after looking in the hole the guy bumped the engine over as i looked in..i had this bike running over 180lbs in each of 4 cyl well when it shot me in the eye i wanted to die..for 6 months i has metal and shi pulled out of my eye..almost went blind..ima safety eye glass wearing son of a gun..9 months in the bed..going blind makes you see so differntly..thankyou lord!!!!!
Great Video. It seems that the industry doesn't acknowledge the cylinder position sensor: it does have a small internal distributor wiring harness attached to it; that wires get all cracked and brittle, especially when coated with engine oil. Not sure to just use liquid tape, or go and cut and solder, more wire?
If the copper is still in good shape I would just slip some of the good heat shrink tubing over it the type with the hot glue like sealant inside to seal out moisture.
Excellent piece of instruction. Thank you for posting.
This is a great video! Thanks for posting this and the other Accord videos! I am having this exact issue with my '94 Accord EX. I am sort of mechanically inclined but have never done a repair like this. How long (time wise) should this repair take for a first timer? Will this affect the timing once I replace it? Will replacing these 2 seals fix the loss of power that I am having?
Hey Bousho, my F22B2 is leaking oil pretty bad from under the timing cover. I had the timing belt replaced a while back and they didn't replace the main crank seal while they had it apart. Lesson learned. It might be my camshaft seal too though... I had a state inspection done here in VA and they mentioned it was pretty bad. Whatever the case, any chance you have a video on these seals? I hate the thought of having to pull a new timing belt off to replace a seal, but it also can't be good to have oil dripping on the rubber belts. I'm guessing that's bad news over time. Your videos have saved me thousands of dollars over the last year. Your rock, man. Keep these coming!!!
The cam and crank seals should have been replaced preemptively during the timing belt job. It protects your investment in the parts oil exposure will destroy the belt over time.
The water pump should have also been replaced if it seizes it will destroy the belt and cause serious engine damage. It's also a good idea to replace both idler pulleys too at a minimum you should spin them to check the bearings.
I usually purchase a timing belt kit it includes new idler pulleys, a water pump, the timing and balancer shaft belts, and only costs around 70 bucks. The seals and valve cover gasket are the only things I have to purchase separately.
Before tearing too far into the engine. Pull the valve cover off and check the gasket if it's cracked, hardened, pinched or rolled over due to an installation error especially around the timing cover area that's the source of your leak.
To get to the crank seal the timing belt has to be removed again. Remove the drive belts, unbolt the power steering pump and lay it off to the side, remove the valve cover, remove the crank pulley, remove the upper and lower timing covers, loosen the timing belt adjusting nut and remove the 2 belts, then you can remove the sprocket on the crank to get to the seal. The cam sprocket is just secured with 1 bolt and it pulls off be careful not to lose it's small key.
If you're just removing and not replacing the belts you don't have to remove the driver side motor mount.
***** Great advice, my friend. I'll pull the valve cover off in the next month or so and check it out. In the meantime, if I find that the leak is coming from the seals, do you happen to know the part numbers on those two? I've tried to pull the schematics up on Majestic Honda, but you know how vague the descriptions are on specific parts, I don't want to order the wrong ones if/when I need them. Aside from the cam and crank seals are there any others I should replace? I recently replaced the valve cover seal (within the last year), but I'm not opposed to dropping $20 on another one. I'm still hoping you have a vid on these badboys! :) No pressure. You rock. PS: the water pump was replaced. I don't know about the pulleys or the seals though.
4frodo
Good the gasket should still be fine unless someone popped the valve cover on with it rolled over during the timing belt job.
When you tighten the bolts down with a misaligned gasket it usually tears and leaves a little path for oil to leak out from.
Oh another thing I forgot to mention if 2 dabs of RTV wasn't put on both sides of the camshaft hump where the gasket seals that could also cause a leak.
You get used to navigating that parts database eventually as frustrating as it may be.
The crank seal is under oil pump because thats the part it's pressed into and the cam seal is under camshaft. I just use name brand aftermarket parts and I've never had an issue.
***** I was able to pull 91213-PT0-003 for the cam seal, but no luck on the crank seal.
***** Thanks Bousho. I'll pop the valve cover off and check that I didn't screw up the RTV when I installed it. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the coming days/weeks. Keep up the good work! It's awesome that you respond to these questions. It means a lot.
Tried a lot. The shaft pin does not slide out by hammering as you showed.
Thanks man! Doin this this weekend
Straight to the point, Thanks!
Thanks for the great video I just fixed mine , again thanks
very great and detailed video, helped very much!
Thanks buddy 👍 Just what I need 😬
Hey, thank you for the NOK part # !! :)
Great video I truly appreciate it being up
Thanks man it was very very helpful