Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph Here is the link to the Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan Here is the link to the Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH Here is the Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Here is a link to the JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
I was an HVAC service technician for 30 years. Now I do building maintenance which does entail HVAC work but no where near what I did when I was a full time service tech. Anyhow I watch videos and study other info to remain as current as possible. One of the things I like about your channel is, how you teach without being full of yourself and of course your ability to convey the knowledge you have, to others through your videos. Wish I had this kind of resource when I was starting out. Well done 👍
As a former Chief instructor, semi retired HVAC man, I can honestly say, you're a top notch instructor, and as good and as knowledgeable as they come...Thanks for another great video.
Good clear instruction...As a former service man and a former instructor, soon to be instructing again, I will share this video with my students...It's clear, explains what is going on and my thanks to the gent that made it.
My old 80's whirlpool central a/c system finally kaput. So I bought a Goodman 3 ton combo with new line sets for $1800 and put it in myself with help from your videos. After thorough research, I ended up going with Stay-Brite 8 and it's flux and soldered in the new linesets. I couldn't afford expensive torches and just went with map gas and a TS8000. After leak testing with nitrogen, I pulled it down to 150 microns before cracking the valves. Started it up and it purrs like a kitten. Added the appropriate charge using superheat and it's nice and cold now. I'd like to thank your for your efforts to educate those that are capable.
I sure hope you didn't use soft solder with 410-a. That's a no no cause of the potential of a major catastrophe the pipe could blow apart at the joints. It should have been brazed.
@@FlyEaglesFly19111 I've seen water hammer work-harden and em-brittle soft solder until it let go at normal (~90 PSIG) so big point. Worse is that these go through temp cycling. Great point.
Thanks a lot I work for a property management company and I just got my certification and am learning the trade from a great teacher. I have a set of basic manifold gages already but would like to lighten the load for quick checks
This looks like a good way to check my tenets AC units. I have only a hose set of gauges, but will invest to get the single gauges in this case. Thanks for the video.
I don't think it's a good idea. It wouldn't pick up a small leak. Find one with a small bubble and hook up the schrader core removal too and you'll see what I mean.
I just use the clamps on the SMAN460 but on this tool I just keep the bead type. One thing Fieldpiece told me that they are having a problem with is with people switching sensors out back and forth after they calibrated that particular sensor so I just keep the same ones on all the time so temp is accurate, thanks!
Like seeing the idea of using the core removal tool to leak check. Avoids having to carry nitrogen tank to blow out the Schrader valve of the leak detector. Thanks!
Yes I just want these things to be on the forefront of technicians minds so that when a problem arises, they will see it quickly and not have to rely on anything else, thanks Stephen!
I do not, you first check the dip switches and motor settings, the real way is with a capture hood over each of the supply openings without registers on or over a single return without the grill unless you have grill data. also an anemometer works if the grill or register is not there. You can also do the temp rise formula but the problem is that the coil is not wet. I don't at this point but would like to in the future, thanks
Are you using the Yellow Jacket Seal Right fittings on your Z manifolds? What was you ending low pressure temperature? Heads up, look at the SolderWeld Multi Sol Rods and Flux, 350 degree flow rate! Great video!
These are called quick connect test gauges but they don't have sealright fittings. I use the manual on/off valves for my hoses. I believe it was 38 degrees, thanks
I love these quick connect gages, but technically speaking are we violating EPAs requirement to use low loss fittings when connecting to schrader valves? This issue has been confusing. Can you clear this up?
Low loss fittings are used to reduce the amount of refrigerant released into the air. They are add ons for refrigerant hoses. Since we are not using refrigerant hoses and only a small amount of refrigerant is needed to take readings, these are actually better, thanks Jim!
What a great video thank you! just found it and it's exactly what I need a little confused as to why you still need to attach your dual temp meter, doesn't the gauge show you if the temp is above 32 deg already? what are you monitoring with the meter? thanks again! ps, which shrader valve removal tool do you recommend?
Just asking, what if you hooked up the high side meter like you did, but instead of connecting the low side meter the way you did, you first connect a Schrader Valve Remover, then the meter to the removal side? Now, if you have to add Freon, you connect to the nipple of the removal tool nipple via a vaporizer (410A) . Would that work?
My mini split won't go pass 200 watts the compressor out back barely spins building very lil to no presser in the lines no leaks detected any ideas does vacuuming creates pressure by pulling all if any air out don't that created a suction forcing the refrigerant threw the lines ?
If you encounter an older system where you cannot read the subcool chart on the unit what is a good average or ballpark number you could rely on? If one exists.
To really do it, you check the actual static pressure of the system with a manometer and then use a ductulator along with the actual measurements of the duct size. Line the ductulator up with the static pressure read. It would be nice to do a video on that at some point, thanks Steve
Use your Fieldpiece gauge set alot easier its all right in front of you to monitor all the info. Also they are good for evacuations. I just installed 140 tons of cooling equipment and used them.
Why is the refrigerant return line have insulation while the high pressure line going to evaporator core not insulated? It seems to me the return line (having higher temp from evaporator core) would benefit from not being insulated to allow some cooling from ambient air before refrigerant reaches compressor. This make any sense? Just curious
Thanks for the reply....I am curious as to maybe using the cold condensate from evaporator core to cool return line to compressor for better efficiency reasons. Checking my own system I found the return line is cooler than the smaller diameter high pressure line from compressor. Is the smaller size line the high pressure side? May be use cold condensate water to cool it? Just an idea....
You wouldn't want to cool the large vapor line but it is better if that picks up heat before reaching the compressor. If the liquid line was cooler as it heads to the metering device then that could help a bit.They have that kind of setup on some refrigerators where the liquid line and vapor line touch, thanks
That makes sense-I have been considering using cold condensate to cool high pressure lone from compressor - I enjoy your videos - learned o lot of stuff (and have repaired some friends AC units - HVAC guys real busy now - friends unit failures are usually the capacitor, motor starter or very badly clogged evaporator cores - people NEVER check/clean them)-I'm not an HVAC tech...
This is a great video, very educational. In tried to purchase the quick connect gauges from Amazon but there were comments saying they could not be used with 410A systems..Is this true...
I have them listed half way down the page at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech and they should be the correct ones. As long as you see that they have the sat temp for r-410a on the gauge which is pink then they would be correct, thanks!
You could but I rely on those bead K-type temp sensors as the most accurate. The laser is reading temp of the metal and I want the temp of the air, thanks Todd!
Thanks good video, After 15minutes AC On for Freon R22, Blue side is 39psi / 14F degree / Suction line actual degree 78F Red side is 175psi / 93F degree / Liquid line actual degree 95F is this mean that I need to just add R22 freon ?
Hey Moon Lee, yes the liquid line temp should be lower than the liquid line sat temp That would be your subcooling. Also your vapor line sat temp is below freezing and your superheat is high. All indications that you are very low on refrigerant, thanks
Is there a reason why you don't use digital gauges? Like sman 360 or 460. They have k clamp temp probes and calculate sh sc vsat and lsat. Just seems easier to have it all in one.
kennie garner you took the words right out of my mouth . Guys are running around with theses digital gauges and don’t even know what super heat or subcool is .
kennie garner understandable. But for me, a small business owner and been in the field for 10 years. It lightens the amount of things needed to carry. But I do agree. People use these alot just for show and acting like they know what they are doing
Hey Condorman3, Kennie Garner, and Fedboy601, I typically use the compound gauges because the majority of techs I teach are newer in the trades and I don't want to confuse them or think you need expensive tools to start in our trade. I will be putting out some videos on how to use digital gauges and probes so people know how to use them efficiently. Also I want newer techs to think through superheat and subcooling for diagnosis sake. For experienced techs that are very fluent with troubleshooting with superheat and subcooling, digital gauges can be nice and can help things go a little faster. Thanks to each of you!
I have them listed at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech from jb already built or by yellow jacket with the gauge and bottom port and you just tighten them together with two small adjustable wrenches, thanks
This plate you referred to with the desired sub cooling number. Is it the metal plate on the outside? My tappan 4ton 16 seer doesn't have this listed on the plate. Where else could i find it?
You could turn the power off to the outdoor unit and look on the inside of the electrical shroud. Sometimes it is there. If it is a single or two speed standard unit than you could use 8-12 degree subcooling as the target. I use 11 degrees when the rating plate is wore off or not there, thanks
Hi, If I have a heatpump, and its set to heating inside the house, is it normal the low blue side builds up pressure while compressor is running in stead of going down when cooling? (im connected to the larger gas side pipe)
I was always talked to just get the ambient temperature plus 30ﾟ and look for it at APT chart with this be a easy and fast way to check your refrigerant levels?
It will not be as accurate or safe for the compressor as the total superheat and subcooling methods. That will get you close but I would not use that nor would I teach my students to use that. I let them know what that older rule of thumb method is but not to rely on it, thanks Elias!
Yes I would like to in the future. I wrote about all the methods that have been passed down and why I would not recommend to use some of them in the new book that will be coming out on refrigerant handling too, thanks Elias!
what happened to old school, temperature feeling? feel the supply air, return air and condenser out air and the line sets???? or you know use actual thermometers on them, gauging up on things is well known to cause leak issues. when you change a cap/evap/cond. motor is it that hard to turn it on and wait 5 minutes? if it working well, the condenser will start dumping heat quickly and inside cool air, heat-pumps are harder, but judging by line temps in the first 2 to 5 minutes is mostly plenty. iif no temp change noticed, something is way off. time to test further
Hey Throttle Bottle, are you talking when techs don't check the valve cores after they disconnect? Yes for efficiency and compressor safety, I try to teach younger techs to only use superheat, subcooling, and total refrigerant weight methods, thanks!
yeah, so many people don't check the cores for leaks before and after gauging up or using them! cores that haven't been used since install, often leak after being used, the same applies for fuel pressure test port, tires stems, car a/c and all water expansion tanks. I find them leaking often, even on things not touched since install, they just start seeping and many times they were simply not tight enough, maybe the taper seal shrunk some.
I am advocating that techs should check with bubble leak detector with the valve core removal tool on the port and bubble leak detector on the end. This way detector doesn't get in the port. If a leak is found, we tighten as you are talking about, pull the stem outward a bit or replace the valve core. Then add the locking cap or brass cap depending on the area. Thanks a lot Throttle Bottle!
Get the Testo stub kit.. it will do pressure and temps all together.. then having the app on your phone or tablet.. will make it easier for superheat and subcooling. Not to mention you can print out results. No more captain cave man
Ha ha, did you check this video out- ruclips.net/video/pKee1y-fF7Y/видео.html -I often use tools that my students or other techs may start out with for their learning purposes but I will continue to put out various tool use for everyone, thanks David!
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph
Here is the link to the Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan
Here is the link to the Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH
Here is the Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze
Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l
Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Here is a link to the JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8
Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc
Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm
Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
Kool man I learn something new,to bring to the field.
Thanks Steve!
Hello. I'm interested in buying your book. I'm an electrician by trade, but want to venture in HVAcR. Will this book give me a good foundation?
@@acservicetechchannel Do you have a video on how to charge 410 on superheat?
I was an HVAC service technician for 30 years. Now I do building maintenance which does entail HVAC work but no where near what I did when I was a full time service tech. Anyhow I watch videos and study other info to remain as current as possible. One of the things I like about your channel is, how you teach without being full of yourself and of course your ability to convey the knowledge you have, to others through your videos. Wish I had this kind of resource when I was starting out. Well done 👍
Thank you very much Jim West!
acservicetech: You're welcome sir 🤠
As a former Chief instructor, semi retired HVAC man, I can honestly say, you're a top notch instructor, and as good and as knowledgeable as they come...Thanks for another great video.
Thank you for supporting my content!!
Good clear instruction...As a former service man and a former instructor, soon to be instructing again, I will share this video with my students...It's clear, explains what is going on and my thanks to the gent that made it.
Thank you very much Vern! Enjoy Teaching!
My old 80's whirlpool central a/c system finally kaput. So I bought a Goodman 3 ton combo with new line sets for $1800 and put it in myself with help from your videos. After thorough research, I ended up going with Stay-Brite 8 and it's flux and soldered in the new linesets. I couldn't afford expensive torches and just went with map gas and a TS8000.
After leak testing with nitrogen, I pulled it down to 150 microns before cracking the valves. Started it up and it purrs like a kitten. Added the appropriate charge using superheat and it's nice and cold now. I'd like to thank your for your efforts to educate those that are capable.
Very Cool, thanks!
I sure hope you didn't use soft solder with 410-a. That's a no no cause of the potential of a major catastrophe the pipe could blow apart at the joints. It should have been brazed.
@@FlyEaglesFly19111 I've seen water hammer work-harden and em-brittle soft solder until it let go at normal (~90 PSIG) so big point. Worse is that these go through temp cycling. Great point.
Thank you Craig
Brilliant idea to save refrigerant loss on every check up
Happy to help
Thanks a lot
I work for a property management company and I just got my certification and am learning the trade from a great teacher.
I have a set of basic manifold gages already but would like to lighten the load for quick checks
Make sense, thats what I do for preventative maintenances, thanks
Extremely well done! Organized with just the right amount of explanation!
Thanks a lot Chris!
This looks like a good way to check my tenets AC units. I have only a hose set of gauges, but will invest to get the single gauges in this case. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, thats what I do, thanks
Good and to the point. I use a wand style Freon detector, $21 on Amazon, works great.
Thanks for the videos man! You are a great teacher, very informative!
Thanks VCG!
Nice hands-on video, Craig. Nice tip on keeping those valves from corroding.
Thanks Jack!
that's a good idea with the schrader core removal tool.
Thanks Blue Collar!
I don't think it's a good idea. It wouldn't pick up a small leak. Find one with a small bubble and hook up the schrader core removal too and you'll see what I mean.
Great Video. Thank you very much. . You could have mentioned whether to add or remove refrigerant depending on subcooling measurement.
True, if the actual subcooling is higher than the target then recover. If the actual subcooling is lower than the target then add refrigerant, thanks
Your page is very informative and you explain things very well.
Thanks for everything you do.
Thanks Tim!
YOu make good video and easy to understand. I watch it over and over again. Love it, thanks
Thanks John!
I like the coiled up low voltage line.
Oh yeah, thanks!
As always love your videos, keep up the great work. Very educational as always
Thanks MC!
I’ve been wanting to fix me some of those Quick connect gauges. Thanks for the info
Thanks Keith!
A very important lesson
Thanks Luis!
I'll suggest a few small cheap squeeze clamp or spring clamps to hold the temp sensors on the lines using that type temp sensor
I just use the clamps on the SMAN460 but on this tool I just keep the bead type. One thing Fieldpiece told me that they are having a problem with is with people switching sensors out back and forth after they calibrated that particular sensor so I just keep the same ones on all the time so temp is accurate, thanks!
Thank u sir appreciate all your contents very informative
Another good one 👍👍
Thanks a lot Nor-Cal, I appreciate you and your work towards teaching current and future techs!
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Looking forward to your book. #1
Thanks James!
Like seeing the idea of using the core removal tool to leak check. Avoids having to carry nitrogen tank to blow out the Schrader valve of the leak detector. Thanks!
Yes, absolutely!
Apps PT Calc and SuperCool helps on alot of things quick
Yes I just want these things to be on the forefront of technicians minds so that when a problem arises, they will see it quickly and not have to rely on anything else, thanks Stephen!
Thank you for this video. Do you have a video where you use the manifold
Hello do you have a video on checking the cfm on the system if not can you show how you do it thank you
I do not, you first check the dip switches and motor settings, the real way is with a capture hood over each of the supply openings without registers on or over a single return without the grill unless you have grill data. also an anemometer works if the grill or register is not there. You can also do the temp rise formula but the problem is that the coil is not wet. I don't at this point but would like to in the future, thanks
Good video like always!!!
Thank you!
Great video very helpful keep up the work 👍👍
Glad to help Terry!
Are you using the Yellow Jacket Seal Right fittings on your Z manifolds?
What was you ending low pressure temperature?
Heads up, look at the SolderWeld Multi Sol Rods and Flux, 350 degree flow rate!
Great video!
These are called quick connect test gauges but they don't have sealright fittings. I use the manual on/off valves for my hoses. I believe it was 38 degrees, thanks
Great, informative video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great stuff man keep it up.
Thanks Todd!
Another Great video
Thanks Phillip!
I love these quick connect gages, but technically speaking are we violating EPAs requirement to use low loss fittings when connecting to schrader valves? This issue has been confusing. Can you clear this up?
Low loss fittings are used to reduce the amount of refrigerant released into the air. They are add ons for refrigerant hoses. Since we are not using refrigerant hoses and only a small amount of refrigerant is needed to take readings, these are actually better, thanks Jim!
What a great video thank you! just found it and it's exactly what I need
a little confused as to why you still need to attach your dual temp meter, doesn't the gauge show you if the temp is above 32 deg already? what are you monitoring with the meter? thanks again!
ps, which shrader valve removal tool do you recommend?
Look at our newest video published today "r22 and r410a operating pressure acservicetech" for the answer and appion vcrt works well.
Just asking, what if you hooked up the high side meter like you did, but instead of connecting the low side meter the way you did, you first connect a Schrader Valve Remover, then the meter to the removal side? Now, if you have to add Freon, you connect to the nipple of the removal tool nipple via a vaporizer (410A) . Would that work?
My mini split won't go pass 200 watts the compressor out back barely spins building very lil to no presser in the lines no leaks detected any ideas does vacuuming creates pressure by pulling all if any air out don't that created a suction forcing the refrigerant threw the lines ?
Great Video
Thanks Deanmartin1966!
Great job
Thanks Kenny!
If you encounter an older system where you cannot read the subcool chart on the unit what is a good average or ballpark number you could rely on? If one exists.
I did a video on this one. look up "acservicetech target subcooling not posted"
How do you know if you have the correct air flow or what the duct size is supposed to be? Also how can you tell what duct size you actually have?
To really do it, you check the actual static pressure of the system with a manometer and then use a ductulator along with the actual measurements of the duct size. Line the ductulator up with the static pressure read. It would be nice to do a video on that at some point, thanks Steve
Awesome video!! Nice and simple!!! Thoughts on the test 550?
It seems to be good like the Fieldpiece SMAN. Either one or the compound sets are good.
Use your Fieldpiece gauge set alot easier its all right in front of you to monitor all the info. Also they are good for evacuations. I just installed 140 tons of cooling equipment and used them.
Yeah they work great. I was just showing how to use test gauges for pms so you don't have to charge the liquid back in, thanks!
Why is the refrigerant return line have insulation while the high pressure line going to evaporator core not insulated? It seems to me the return line (having higher temp from evaporator core) would benefit from not being insulated to allow some cooling from ambient air before refrigerant reaches compressor. This make any sense? Just curious
That makes sense. The reason is so the line will not sweat and cause damage due to condensation, that's all.
Thanks for the reply....I am curious as to maybe using the cold condensate from evaporator core to cool return line to compressor for better efficiency reasons. Checking my own system I found the return line is cooler than the smaller diameter high pressure line from compressor. Is the smaller size line the high pressure side? May be use cold condensate water to cool it? Just an idea....
You wouldn't want to cool the large vapor line but it is better if that picks up heat before reaching the compressor. If the liquid line was cooler as it heads to the metering device then that could help a bit.They have that kind of setup on some refrigerators where the liquid line and vapor line touch, thanks
That makes sense-I have been considering using cold condensate to cool high pressure lone from compressor - I enjoy your videos - learned o lot of stuff (and have repaired some friends AC units - HVAC guys real busy now - friends unit failures are usually the capacitor, motor starter or very badly clogged evaporator cores - people NEVER check/clean them)-I'm not an HVAC tech...
all good, thank you ...
Thank you!
This is a great video, very educational. In tried to purchase the quick connect gauges from Amazon but there were comments saying they could not be used with 410A systems..Is this true...
I have them listed half way down the page at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech and they should be the correct ones. As long as you see that they have the sat temp for r-410a on the gauge which is pink then they would be correct, thanks!
Do you have a video testing proper airflow ? Thanks.
I would like to do one soon with the anemometer or temp rise formula. They are on my list, thanks!
Could you use an infrared temp gun to get the return air and supply air temperatures?
You could but I rely on those bead K-type temp sensors as the most accurate. The laser is reading temp of the metal and I want the temp of the air, thanks Todd!
Get a cheap digital on around $10 will work.
Thanks good video,
After 15minutes AC On for Freon R22,
Blue side is 39psi / 14F degree / Suction line actual degree 78F
Red side is 175psi / 93F degree / Liquid line actual degree 95F
is this mean that I need to just add R22 freon ?
Hey Moon Lee, yes the liquid line temp should be lower than the liquid line sat temp That would be your subcooling. Also your vapor line sat temp is below freezing and your superheat is high. All indications that you are very low on refrigerant, thanks
Is there a reason why you don't use digital gauges? Like sman 360 or 460. They have k clamp temp probes and calculate sh sc vsat and lsat. Just seems easier to have it all in one.
kennie garner you took the words right out of my mouth . Guys are running around with theses digital gauges and don’t even know what super heat or subcool is .
kennie garner understandable. But for me, a small business owner and been in the field for 10 years. It lightens the amount of things needed to carry. But I do agree. People use these alot just for show and acting like they know what they are doing
Hey Condorman3, Kennie Garner, and Fedboy601, I typically use the compound gauges because the majority of techs I teach are newer in the trades and I don't want to confuse them or think you need expensive tools to start in our trade. I will be putting out some videos on how to use digital gauges and probes so people know how to use them efficiently. Also I want newer techs to think through superheat and subcooling for diagnosis sake. For experienced techs that are very fluent with troubleshooting with superheat and subcooling, digital gauges can be nice and can help things go a little faster. Thanks to each of you!
Can you buy the gages like that without a manifold or do I need to make a set?
How easy are they to make it that's the case?
I have them listed at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech from jb already built or by yellow jacket with the gauge and bottom port and you just tighten them together with two small adjustable wrenches, thanks
This plate you referred to with the desired sub cooling number. Is it the metal plate on the outside? My tappan 4ton 16 seer doesn't have this listed on the plate. Where else could i find it?
You could turn the power off to the outdoor unit and look on the inside of the electrical shroud. Sometimes it is there. If it is a single or two speed standard unit than you could use 8-12 degree subcooling as the target. I use 11 degrees when the rating plate is wore off or not there, thanks
Please what gage did you use to measure total cfm. thanks for the video
You can use an anemometer if it is a single or multiple return grills and you remove the grill, thanks
With the quick connect test gauges, do you have to worry about cross contamination of refrigerants, if you're connecting them on multiple ac units?
Hey David, you can use one set for R-22 and another for R-410A but these will be less cross contaminating then a full hose included, thanks David!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you for answering my question, your videos have help me learn a lot about the Hvac trade.
Can you blow out the bubble leak fluid with air?
Absolutely!
Hi, If I have a heatpump, and its set to heating inside the house, is it normal the low blue side builds up pressure while compressor is running in stead of going down when cooling? (im connected to the larger gas side pipe)
Its a unit with the new r32 gas
JJ Crs. Yes the whole system reverses, the suction becomes HP. Connect red hose only
I was always talked to just get the ambient temperature plus 30ﾟ and look for it at APT chart with this be a easy and fast way to check your refrigerant levels?
It will not be as accurate or safe for the compressor as the total superheat and subcooling methods. That will get you close but I would not use that nor would I teach my students to use that. I let them know what that older rule of thumb method is but not to rely on it, thanks Elias!
AC Service Tech LLC Thanks! Could you do a video regarding this inaccurate method because I know alot of people use it out there👍🏻
Yes I would like to in the future. I wrote about all the methods that have been passed down and why I would not recommend to use some of them in the new book that will be coming out on refrigerant handling too, thanks Elias!
what happened to old school, temperature feeling? feel the supply air, return air and condenser out air and the line sets????
or you know use actual thermometers on them, gauging up on things is well known to cause leak issues. when you change a cap/evap/cond. motor is it that hard to turn it on and wait 5 minutes? if it working well, the condenser will start dumping heat quickly and inside cool air, heat-pumps are harder, but judging by line temps in the first 2 to 5 minutes is mostly plenty. iif no temp change noticed, something is way off. time to test further
I guess it may take years of experience... but still
Hey Throttle Bottle, are you talking when techs don't check the valve cores after they disconnect? Yes for efficiency and compressor safety, I try to teach younger techs to only use superheat, subcooling, and total refrigerant weight methods, thanks!
yeah, so many people don't check the cores for leaks before and after gauging up or using them!
cores that haven't been used since install, often leak after being used, the same applies for fuel pressure test port, tires stems, car a/c and all water expansion tanks.
I find them leaking often, even on things not touched since install, they just start seeping and many times they were simply not tight enough, maybe the taper seal shrunk some.
I am advocating that techs should check with bubble leak detector with the valve core removal tool on the port and bubble leak detector on the end. This way detector doesn't get in the port. If a leak is found, we tighten as you are talking about, pull the stem outward a bit or replace the valve core. Then add the locking cap or brass cap depending on the area. Thanks a lot Throttle Bottle!
Is there a way of making a quick disconnect for spit ac for rv applications
Not a quick disconnect to reconnect refrigerant lines.There are quick disconnects for refrigerant charging hoses, thanks
Great
Thanks Jaime!
As always👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks Tank!
I got one off Amazon's and it's was only for r22. picture showed both.
Are you talking a quick connect test gauge? Which one?
Get the Testo stub kit.. it will do pressure and temps all together.. then having the app on your phone or tablet.. will make it easier for superheat and subcooling. Not to mention you can print out results. No more captain cave man
Ha ha, did you check this video out- ruclips.net/video/pKee1y-fF7Y/видео.html -I often use tools that my students or other techs may start out with for their learning purposes but I will continue to put out various tool use for everyone, thanks David!
🌴😎👍 Bravo......👏
Good video, but I felt like there are 10 more lessons I need to learn before getting to this video lesson.
Have you looked up "acservicetech refrigeration cycle" video yet or "acservicetech what is refrigerant?" thanks
@@acservicetechchannel You threw in the BTUs/ton, 400cfm/ton and a lot of good memory aids. This is one of your most succinct vids!
👍👍😎
Thanks James!
I thought this was supposed to be an EASY way to do it.
You talk to much, wow , just get to the point
Ha ha, thanks for letting me know Miguel!