Hi Tom. When I was very inexperienced (??) and built my 'Pansy', I set up my quartering jig much like yours, but instead of packing under the crankpin I had an old metal set square which I used. I found the centre height at 90 degrees and drilled a hole in the blade to the diameter of the crankpin. It was just a simple job of moving the wheel until the pin lined up with the hole and the blade was just pushed into position. Nothing to move, and all the crankpins were set the same. Just how I did it nearly 40 years ago, and I still have the setsquare! Thanks.
Hi Tom always find your content interesting , my farther a Engine driver for 46 years up until retirement in 1987 ,explained to me that 1/4 ing is so that a loco will always start, Stirling signal for instants .this is information gained in the 1940 whilst under instruction and tested all the best
Hi, thank you. Yes, quite right, quartering the cylinder cranks gives the most even events across the two cylinders, minimising the chance of a dead spot, however, in this instance as it is an inside cylinder loco, the necessity for the two cylinders being at 90 degrees is accounted for by the cranks on the crank axle, and the wheels themselves would work at any angle. Even if they were only 20 degrees off from one side to the other this would keep the wheels turning properly. I hope this makes sense. I should have pointed this out when recording the video really.
yes I understand this butt probably would shake a bit as the counter wight cast in the wheels counters the piston motion and the side rods to run smooth at speed. Dad ad a fond spot for pom poms he described getting the best out of them was a light fire dancing on the bars. @@TomsWorkshop42
In full size that would be the case, in model form they are not particularly balanced so would not cause much of a problem, as it happens I got confused with my 7 1/4 as I was looking at the wheel positions,m for valve events, but they are about 20 degrees off from where they should be in relation to the cranks, but once aware that doesn’t matter.
Hi Tom, You are obviously a good machinist. However, after listening to your explanation of the reason for the left and right side being 90 deg out of phase, I am wondering about your understanding of steam engines. The pistons are 90 deg out of phase so there is never a net top dead center. Whether you have 1 or 5 driven axles, the pistons will always be 90 deg out. Yes, the wheel links keep all the wheels synchronized and driven properly, but it is a convenient and efficient way to link the pistons to the wheels. Even if there were only 1 axle, If you have 2 pistons, they would need to be 90 deg out. I do like your channel and I enjoy watching you work your lathe. Keep up the good work.
Hi Theodore, I am aware of the reason for the cylinders being out of phase by 90 degrees, as you say, however with an inside cylinder loco the wheels do not necessarily have to be at the same angle as the cranks on the crank axle.
Tom why don't you make a jig make a mase solder 2 v blocks to the base get a 2 1/2 piece of flat stock make a right and a left v block and a 2 1/2 thick metal cut a 90 degree angle on the two sides and solder to the base read the book on the a 3 pennsylvania switcher by Kozo Hiraoka he has a wealth of information go to your library they might be able to help you or even join a local live steam club or engineering group it would be easier and faster to quarter a wheel set start there let me know how you made out
Hi, Yes, if I was building new then I would definitely use a jig of some sort, but in this instance as I was only replacing one axle, I had no way of knowing if the other two had been made perfectly, so I needed to set this one to the same as the others, which should be 90°, but no guarantee… so easier to use the other axle as a template.
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Hi Tom. When I was very inexperienced (??) and built my 'Pansy', I set up my quartering jig much like yours, but instead of packing under the crankpin I had an old metal set square which I used. I found the centre height at 90 degrees and drilled a hole in the blade to the diameter of the crankpin. It was just a simple job of moving the wheel until the pin lined up with the hole and the blade was just pushed into position. Nothing to move, and all the crankpins were set the same. Just how I did it nearly 40 years ago, and I still have the setsquare! Thanks.
Hi Tom always find your content interesting , my farther a Engine driver for 46 years up until retirement in 1987 ,explained to me that 1/4 ing
is so that a loco will always start, Stirling signal for instants .this is information gained in the 1940 whilst under instruction and tested all the best
Hi, thank you. Yes, quite right, quartering the cylinder cranks gives the most even events across the two cylinders, minimising the chance of a dead spot, however, in this instance as it is an inside cylinder loco, the necessity for the two cylinders being at 90 degrees is accounted for by the cranks on the crank axle, and the wheels themselves would work at any angle. Even if they were only 20 degrees off from one side to the other this would keep the wheels turning properly. I hope this makes sense.
I should have pointed this out when recording the video really.
yes I understand this butt probably would shake a bit as the counter wight cast in the wheels counters the piston motion and the side rods to run smooth at speed. Dad ad a fond spot for pom poms he described getting the best out of them was a light fire dancing on the bars. @@TomsWorkshop42
In full size that would be the case, in model form they are not particularly balanced so would not cause much of a problem, as it happens I got confused with my 7 1/4 as I was looking at the wheel positions,m for valve events, but they are about 20 degrees off from where they should be in relation to the cranks, but once aware that doesn’t matter.
Lovely to see some work on the pompom again 😀
The content is great Tom so carry on as you are!
Excellent video Tom keep up being you you are doing really good very interesting to see how you do things glen 👍
Very well done keep up the good work Thank you!
High speed voiceover was Hilarious 🤣
Thanks. Not sure it went well enough to try again… lol.
Got to love bullied Firth brown wheels very interesting video one again thanks very mutch
Content = great - Thanks
You can do it on a surface plate. Axle on vee blocks packing under both crank pins to set each side at 45 degrees to face of plate.
Hi Tom, You are obviously a good machinist. However, after listening to your explanation of the reason for the left and right side being 90 deg out of phase, I am wondering about your understanding of steam engines. The pistons are 90 deg out of phase so there is never a net top dead center. Whether you have 1 or 5 driven axles, the pistons will always be 90 deg out. Yes, the wheel links keep all the wheels synchronized and driven properly, but it is a convenient and efficient way to link the pistons to the wheels. Even if there were only 1 axle, If you have 2 pistons, they would need to be 90 deg out. I do like your channel and I enjoy watching you work your lathe. Keep up the good work.
Hi Theodore, I am aware of the reason for the cylinders being out of phase by 90 degrees, as you say, however with an inside cylinder loco the wheels do not necessarily have to be at the same angle as the cranks on the crank axle.
Tom why don't you make a jig make a mase solder 2 v blocks to the base get a 2 1/2 piece of flat stock make a right and a left v block and a 2 1/2 thick metal cut a 90 degree angle on the two sides and solder to the base read the book on the a 3 pennsylvania switcher by Kozo Hiraoka he has a wealth of information go to your library they might be able to help you or even join a local live steam club or engineering group it would be easier and faster to quarter a wheel set start there let me know how you made out
Hi,
Yes, if I was building new then I would definitely use a jig of some sort, but in this instance as I was only replacing one axle, I had no way of knowing if the other two had been made perfectly, so I needed to set this one to the same as the others, which should be 90°, but no guarantee… so easier to use the other axle as a template.