I pour mr bubble bubble bath into both my fueltank and my crankcase. When the bubbles coming out of the exhaust pipe are clear, I know that the engine is clean.
Just change your oil and filter every 5k miles. I use M1 full synthetic-it provides the best protection, but you can use any quality full synthetic oil and filter. It's worth it and cost effective if you do the oil changes yourself. Also a good idea to use a top tier gas as well. Your engine will stay very clean.
You are correct, preventative maintenance is key. However, this can be helpful for those that maybe purchased a used vehicle and the new owner is unsure of what type of maintenance was done by the previous owner. Yes, you could do many things differently however, this video can be helpful to someone looking to restore their engine to a degree.
Regular oil changes by the manual with the recommended oil should prevent 99% of what this shows. Yes some is left over if you really wanna flush just do two oil changes.Drain the old run some really nice synthetic in it for a short while then change it a again. If you flush a mistreated engine you run a big risk.
I can mostly agree, I only slightly disagree with you on the flushing causing issues with an old engine, reason being, oil additive flush don't dissolve sediments as it claim, only dilute oil and give roaming sludge molecules something to attach to when draining. Dilution will cause oil thinning, thinner oil reaches tighter tolerances, theoretically removing deposits the incumbent oil fails to achieve. I'm talking about at best 1% removal from additive. Issues will only arise when driven with lower than standard rated oil viscosity, causing loss of standard oil pressure. Oil flushes will not help sludge I'm sorry to say, only extreme solvent or manual labor, a flat head screw driver or wire wheel😂. This stuff is just marketed to capitalize off placebo. The people buying can't see inside their engine and don't know how ineffective oil is at removing caked up varnish. It's bad people! RUclips a sludge engine. This stuff is hard and brittle!
Even IF flush would work (and I too argue it does not but even IF), all the loose stuff would quickly clog the oil filter and open it's bypass valve, thereby flooding the bearings with that stuff.
@@mrtopcat2 im working with this unrealistic hypothetical😂.. But not necessarily. 99% not likely to have bearing issues, simply because the sludge have to bypass the oil pickup strainer. This gets clogged well before anything gets to the oil filter. I have a recent video on a car that had p0016 code, video of me cleaning oil pan and pickup tube. Should be "p0016 update Toyota Corolla". You'll see exatly what happens! But the oil light comes on because of clog
@@partsshooter I agree. Point is, this stupid flush idea BETTER DON'T WORK, because if it does, major engine damage will occur. I made this same comment to a young RUclipsr, who made a whole episode on flush and "benefits" 😂. I used to watch his channel as he was the tinkering with stuff kind of guy, but after this blunder I turned my back on him. Sadly he has hundreds (if not already thousands) of comments complementing and discussing his flush. Likely the SeaFoam crowds, if you know what I mean. 🧐
@@mrtopcat2 I'm literally... Testing seasfoam, brake cleaner, paint thinner, purple power! And a blend of everything😂 with the saved sludge chunks. I put them in small glass jars. And ima be the first to side with you, sea foam aint do SQUAT! Brake cleaner literally dissolved the sludge within minutes, crazy! I'm in the process of coming up with a non-invasive solution, it's a concept. It's safe... I just need a neglected donor car lol... I'll do a video within the year hopefully. Concept involves basically hydro locking the engine with solution [not running literally] but flooding, soak and drain, then a hydro lock fill, soak and drain. Plus a few other procedures. I have a few issues, solvent and seal plausible damage but it's a concept. Issue is time! Can it be completed fast and efficiently
I drive a diesel toyota that currently has 400,000 kms. It runs great and engine sound is good too. Never flushed. Only changed oil regularly, warm up every morning. Am I going to hell?
I recommend to only put new fresh and certified oils in your engins, and changing the oil and filter regularly all the time for all engines. If you for some reason have a bad build up like demonstrated in this video, then you have a more serious problem. And you should need that motor taken apart and cleaned out when you get your engine rebuilt. I doubt you'll have a bad build up if you do regular oil changes.
In some countries, the difference between more expensive and cheaper oils can be significant, so it makes sense for some to change the engine oil using a cheaper product, run that for a while, and then perform the "real" oil change. I would just use an engine oil with better detergents, and reduce oil change intervals i.e. from 10,000 to 6,000 miles. I am not ok with different brands of oil mixed in my car's engine just because people claim "they are compatible"; just do whatever makes sense according to your owner's manual.
That was what I used, mine needs 6.5L but you don't have half liter bottle anywhere on the market so I use that half bottle do the flush and replace with the rest.
will this fix "dropping" oil pressure after running ? what I think is happening is , dirt has blocked some of the drains , where the oil drains back down to be pumped back up , as it has great oil pressure at start up and then drops off to 0 while running after warming up , let it sit , even when the engine is still warm , it has great pressure again , until you run it for 15 minutes or so , and then 0 again , I`m thinking a flush will clean out those drains that let the oil back to the c-case?
Car manufacturers should make a filter that the oil gets pumped through to trap the suspended particles. We could change these “oil filters” at every oil change.
I don't think debris should be a problem since there is an oil filter that can filter out particles down to .28 microns. Also the additives in modern oils prevents the oil from oxidzing. So as long you change the oil regularly before the additives wear out and before the oil filter gets clogged(and starts using the by pass valve) sludging should not be a problem, so flushing is not necessary.
The additives in oils degrade the base oil. Because that’s what detergents do. Suspended particles don’t need to be chemically reacted with, they need to be caught by the filter. There’s even anti-foam agents that prevent foaming. Why did bubbles want to form? From the suds of the detergents reacting with the oil. The entire thing is a huge successful scam. Sell engine oils for huge $$ that actually degraded themselves quickly so you have to keep buying more and more.
People will believe what they want to. According to the NBC expose on the subject: "That's why Honda issued a memo to mechanics advising them not to perform engine flushes. Other major car-makers, including Ford, General Motors, and Nissan have all issued similar advisories against the service." Nissan specifically stated that engine flushes of any sort will void all warranties. The engineers who design auto engines intend them to run only in the presence of appropriate motor oil and nothing else. Now that means API service SN of the correct viscosity for the application. There will always be people who will put all sorts of stuff in the crankcases instead. FWIW, I follow my cars' manufacturer's recommendations and do nothing else. I keep my cars for decades and many hundreds of thousands of miles, use conventional oil, change it every 5K, use factory filters and have never had an engine failure, period. The heads have never been off any of my cars' engines or my father's. He did the same thing. "Can't hurt"? Are you kidding? Of course it can.
Oh, now I understand: It's all a great conspiracy by industry against you. They all want to prevent you from exercising your Constitutional right to be free and independent. Makes perfect sense...distorted but perfect. The government is hiding dead space aliens at area 51, too. There are no such things as evolution and climate change. The earth is only 6000 years old and the companies who make car engines, and their engineers, know less about what you should put in the crankcase than you do. Had an uncle who never changed his car's oil and it held up a long time, too. Grandfather's neighbor only drove in first gear...and his car outlasted him. So what? I have better things to do. Enjoy your life. Hope you're flushed with success.
If you use the very best filter, highest detergent oil available, change it 1,000-1.500 miles ahead of factory intervals you never get any sludge buildup in the engine. The only sludged engines I have ever seen the oil was left in too long.
You can run Marvel Mystery Oil in there which will keep everything clean you can also dump gas or diesel Inn without starting your engine letting it run down it'll flush stuff out and break up anything that's in the bottom and flush right out company I used to work for we had an RV that had a generator I used to change oil on it and every once in awhile I would dump a little bit of gas or diesel in their shake the engine around and drain it and if there was anything in there would come out you can also use Marvel Mystery Oil or seafoam on your last 500 miles if you don't want to leave the Marvel Mystery Oil in for the whole duration and it will slowly clean everything out I've never had a problem with sludge build-up I've always use Marvel Mystery Oil in my oil from the time that I replace the oil and my engine is spotless inside
Only do this on small engines, never your car: Empty your engine oil and pour kerosene in and leave it there over over night. The next day, empty out there kerosene and flush with 1 quart of clean oil before putting in all the new oil.
That is some sound advice. Would do the same on a smaller engine too. BUT DO NOT TURN ON THE ENGINE WHEN KEROSENE IS INSIDE. DO NOT. DO NOT. DO NOT. but just one question? Could the kerosene degrade certain rubber gaskets?
I add about half a litre of fresh oil 1000km before a oil change.I'm no mechanic but the detergent in the fresh oil will break down the sludge enough drain away properly
Well, let's see, I always change my oil regularly and use synthetic of course. Never had an engine issue ever with having owned 31 cars over the years. I also, don't smoke, don't look down the barrel of my guns, and don't text while driving. Yep, got life figured out.
@jhcreech1 ofcourse they dont, because they intended you to not maintain engine, ruin it as soon as possible and then buy new one! I think this stuff is working and its good for your engine..
I would never do that to an engine. Why? Surface energy. To pull out any sludge, you have to break down the surface film oil should be leaving. You lose both wetting and viscosity. In other words, you compromise the oil's ability to lubricate. That's why they say to run the flush at idle speeds. The better solution is to use quality oils and change it out before it substantially breaks down. That's 2500-3000 miles for dino juice and 4000-6000 miles for good full synthetics. And always change it with the engine warm (but not so warm that the old oil would scald you)
Oil flushed Worked once for me on a friends sludged up sohc civic but if I had to do it again I'd just change the oil every 1k miles until I came out clean
Or change the oil more often. I change it every 3-5.000 km. That way theres no time for stuff to build up. My engines look like new on the inside, when I open them.
Chris, when yiu buy a used car, all ex owner talk crap about what they did or didn't do with their car, sometime just gotta do what you gotta do to fix their mess
iv used this stuff and did a inspection pre use and after - don't bother its rubbish - i even left it in for a week just to see if it needed more time and still not much difference
correct a cup of trans fluid(DEX3/DX3) add to your old oil and the car driven for a week will also slowly clean the engine without disturbing the harmful carbon deposits, then a oil change and filter change run the engine till its next change then a week before add a cup of trans fluid and then run for a week it will have the worst carboned/sludged up engines looking like new in about 4 oil changes
well i can not speak for the motul one, but i have used omega 907 for many years, and every time i use it i it removes all the buildup in my hydraulic lifters and in the bottom of my oil pan. I've used this on a gazoline beemer that still had translucent brown oil and the oil that came out was totally black.
Solvent based flushes are bad news. You can achieve a 99% oil exchange by completing a fill, run 10 minutes, drain and refill a second time with clean oil. Recycle the oil by using it in older vehicle, lawn equipment or for a second flush at the next oil change interval. Typical 15 minute oil change will leave 10-20% of the old oil in the sump. Question: would you buy oil that had a warning on the label that up to 20% of the oil was used, of unknown quality or condition? Mixed in the bottle or in the sump, doesn't matter.
You can always buy a cheap ATF, dump the old oil, fill it with 5qts of ATF, just run it like an engine flush 5-15min dump it and fill it with regular oil.
Prob good if you're way way overdue for an oil change and likely sludge inside imo. By that time you finished the flush you will get into more problems.
the only cleaning id trust is the manual cleaning of deposits and the correct maintenance of oil. adding additives dont magically just remove stuff. maybe in time...over MANY treatments...they might reduce...but not magically clean
not much. unlike stupid moron manufacturers like BMW who put their oil drain plugs not on the lowest point on the oil pan, japanese cars let you drain them fully.
Garage always used to do it at each service, I got my oil from the same shop this time and changed it myself, no flush. I’m only doing 5k a year and the performance is fine atm.
It would probably be better to just drain the oil install your new oil filter and don't put your plug back on and just put a fuck ton of oil to flush the shit out
My brother's 200k civic quit consuming oil after 2 oil changes before 3k, and top offs with marvel or full syn high mileage oil at 1,500mi. It went from 3qt per 4k to 1/2qt per 3k. Just needed a good soak and an Italian tune up.
@@MrMagichobo21 yeah i know, now i fill the crank case with 3 quarts of purified water and 2 quarts of gasoline. Washes it right out. So clean it squeaks when running now.
I don't believe that is correct that compression is reduced by "sediment" or carbon build-up. Compression is actually INCREASED by build-up and as long as the rings hold compression, a car may actually GAIN power.
actually, if you have years of carbon buildup in your cylinders, you lose compression because your car can only run a certain air/fuel ratio and has a max compression in lbs/in, since some of the volume of your cylinder is now carbon buildup, it can only compress slightly less air/fuel resulting in a smaller bang which causes you to have a loss of power.
When carbon builds it fouls the valve seats or stems and you can lose compression and lose a lot of power when the valves float at much lower rpms than they otherwise would.
Im just use palm oil to clean the engine. Just drained the oil, and pour 800 ml run the engine for 10 - 15 minutes. Drain the palm oil back and pour a new engine oil..its easy and saved your money
This is just a video to try to sell more of their product, much of it is complete bullshit too. Most manufacturers have notices out stating to not perform engine flushes, they do more harm then good.
Id agree on engines that have been well maintained and had regular oil changes, however every now and again you come across an engine which has not has regular oil changes and has a lot of gunk/sludge built up to the stage when you drain it it wont all come out (hot or cold) then you need a flushing oil
very effective and educational your video, but that kind of flush does not remove the sludge that is already clogging of the oil inside the engine. obstruction under extreme fluid oil, an oil change is very late, like add additives as these will not be able to run inside the engine and would waste money and engine lubrication continue without proper! the only solution is to clean it manually and it is expensive $ $ $ $ $
Масло меняйте не реже 7000км и ни когда таких отложений не увидите...не реже это значит от 5000 до 7000 кому как нравится,если не хотите вот этого всего
Sounds like a fine way to break up a nice piece of carbon-goop and get it stuck in and plugging up a galley that lubes say.. a main-bearing for instance. But at least you'll have "supple" piston-rings before the mill catastrophically grenades. Seems like a decent trade-off to me.
I am a car mechanic I flush engine with diesel take old oil out put sump nut back on put diesel in engine start for 30 seconds then take diesel out engine it go's in blue & comes out black then put new oil in
If you sat through this entire video, you just completed your training as a Jiffy Lube employee.
On behalf of all of us at the Dharam Initiative, thank you.
Agreed 👍
"keeping particles in suspense"
serves them right
youtube is recommended this me after 11 years 🤣🤣🤣
WHAT?
@@jcawalolongid7268 ya its recommended me after 11 years or now is 12 years
*12 years
😂😂😂
Me now😂😂
I pour mr bubble bubble bath into both my fueltank and my crankcase. When the bubbles coming out of the exhaust pipe are clear, I know that the engine is clean.
Excellent idea
Do I mix it with regular water or distilled water
@@norbertoespinoza5158 Distilled Evian water works best!
Wow! That stuff works great on a cartoon engine!. lol!!
It is a joke, no oilfilter, no pvc system.
🤣🤣🤣👌
I agree! Basically 🤷🏾♂️🤣🤣
@@MrTruth111
, /
Good marketing
Just change your oil and filter every 5k miles. I use M1 full synthetic-it provides the best protection, but you can use any quality full synthetic oil and filter. It's worth it and cost effective if you do the oil changes yourself. Also a good idea to use a top tier gas as well. Your engine will stay very clean.
id say every 7500, depends what engine though. I change the oil on my 7.3 powerstroke every 5000 miles
Agree with you 💯. Doing your oil changes regularly will eliminate the issue and add longevity to your engine.
You are correct, preventative maintenance is key.
However, this can be helpful for those that maybe purchased a used vehicle and the new owner is unsure of what type of maintenance was done by the previous owner.
Yes, you could do many things differently however, this video can be helpful to someone looking to restore their engine to a degree.
@@psd28 too long
@@dcgeeked8917 no
so where's the oil filter 🤔 because isn't it's job to trap foreign particles when they get suspended in the new oil 😒
Regular oil changes by the manual with the recommended oil should prevent 99% of what this shows. Yes some is left over if you really wanna flush just do two oil changes.Drain the old run some really nice synthetic in it for a short while then change it a again. If you flush a mistreated engine you run a big risk.
I can mostly agree, I only slightly disagree with you on the flushing causing issues with an old engine, reason being, oil additive flush don't dissolve sediments as it claim, only dilute oil and give roaming sludge molecules something to attach to when draining.
Dilution will cause oil thinning, thinner oil reaches tighter tolerances, theoretically removing deposits the incumbent oil fails to achieve. I'm talking about at best 1% removal from additive.
Issues will only arise when driven with lower than standard rated oil viscosity, causing loss of standard oil pressure.
Oil flushes will not help sludge I'm sorry to say, only extreme solvent or manual labor, a flat head screw driver or wire wheel😂.
This stuff is just marketed to capitalize off placebo. The people buying can't see inside their engine and don't know how ineffective oil is at removing caked up varnish. It's bad people! RUclips a sludge engine. This stuff is hard and brittle!
Even IF flush would work (and I too argue it does not but even IF), all the loose stuff would quickly clog the oil filter and open it's bypass valve, thereby flooding the bearings with that stuff.
@@mrtopcat2 im working with this unrealistic hypothetical😂.. But not necessarily. 99% not likely to have bearing issues, simply because the sludge have to bypass the oil pickup strainer. This gets clogged well before anything gets to the oil filter.
I have a recent video on a car that had p0016 code, video of me cleaning oil pan and pickup tube. Should be "p0016 update Toyota Corolla". You'll see exatly what happens! But the oil light comes on because of clog
@@partsshooter I agree.
Point is, this stupid flush idea BETTER DON'T WORK, because if it does, major engine damage will occur.
I made this same comment to a young RUclipsr, who made a whole episode on flush and "benefits" 😂. I used to watch his channel as he was the tinkering with stuff kind of guy, but after this blunder I turned my back on him.
Sadly he has hundreds (if not already thousands) of comments complementing and discussing his flush. Likely the SeaFoam crowds, if you know what I mean. 🧐
@@mrtopcat2 I'm literally... Testing seasfoam, brake cleaner, paint thinner, purple power! And a blend of everything😂 with the saved sludge chunks. I put them in small glass jars. And ima be the first to side with you, sea foam aint do SQUAT! Brake cleaner literally dissolved the sludge within minutes, crazy!
I'm in the process of coming up with a non-invasive solution, it's a concept. It's safe... I just need a neglected donor car lol... I'll do a video within the year hopefully.
Concept involves basically hydro locking the engine with solution [not running literally] but flooding, soak and drain, then a hydro lock fill, soak and drain. Plus a few other procedures.
I have a few issues, solvent and seal plausible damage but it's a concept. Issue is time! Can it be completed fast and efficiently
What if you just remove and clean the oil pan?
Add about a Quart of Diesel fuel to the old Oil, let it idle for 20min, then change your oil...
Good for learn more the knowledge
I drive a diesel toyota that currently has 400,000 kms. It runs great and engine sound is good too. Never flushed. Only changed oil regularly, warm up every morning. Am I going to hell?
Heaven
maybe a car meet
I recommend to only put new fresh and certified oils in your engins, and changing the oil and filter regularly all the time for all engines. If you for some reason have a bad build up like demonstrated in this video, then you have a more serious problem. And you should need that motor taken apart and cleaned out when you get your engine rebuilt. I doubt you'll have a bad build up if you do regular oil changes.
flush it out with cheap oil.run for 3 days and change to your regular engine oil.
that's means in total the required engine oil amount needed will be doubled?
In some countries, the difference between more expensive and cheaper oils can be significant, so it makes sense for some to change the engine oil using a cheaper product, run that for a while, and then perform the "real" oil change. I would just use an engine oil with better detergents, and reduce oil change intervals i.e. from 10,000 to 6,000 miles. I am not ok with different brands of oil mixed in my car's engine just because people claim "they are compatible"; just do whatever makes sense according to your owner's manual.
Manny Fernandez what does engine oil number means
ruclips.net/video/4zcyV5vy3pQ/видео.html
That was what I used, mine needs 6.5L but you don't have half liter bottle anywhere on the market so I use that half bottle do the flush and replace with the rest.
This is non sense man, what are you talking about ?
Excellent explanation focusing on cat cleaning aswell.
will this fix "dropping" oil pressure after running ? what I think is happening is , dirt has blocked some of the drains , where the oil drains back down to be pumped back up , as it has great oil pressure at start up and then drops off to 0 while running after warming up , let it sit , even when the engine is still warm , it has great pressure again , until you run it for 15 minutes or so , and then 0 again , I`m thinking a flush will clean out those drains that let the oil back to the c-case?
Does fully synthetic oil creates deposits as well?
Does it require flush stp or motl as well?
Car manufacturers should make a filter that the oil gets pumped through to trap the suspended particles. We could change these “oil filters” at every oil change.
And they should make some kind of electric motor that can crank the engine, so we dont havr zo crank it by hand.
If they made everything to last, things would not wear out and you wouldn't have to buy more, resulting in elimination of jobs :)
I don't think debris should be a problem since there is an oil filter that can filter out particles down to .28 microns. Also the additives in modern oils prevents the oil from oxidzing. So as long you change the oil regularly before the additives wear out and before the oil filter gets clogged(and starts using the by pass valve) sludging should not be a problem, so flushing is not necessary.
😂 engine oil filter don't filter down to 0.28 ... in automotive applications 😳good luck😏
The additives in oils degrade the base oil. Because that’s what detergents do. Suspended particles don’t need to be chemically reacted with, they need to be caught by the filter. There’s even anti-foam agents that prevent foaming. Why did bubbles want to form? From the suds of the detergents reacting with the oil.
The entire thing is a huge successful scam. Sell engine oils for huge $$ that actually degraded themselves quickly so you have to keep buying more and more.
Ha! I'm having a good laugh at this BS...
Fear is a good way to get people to buy something. #1 marketing tactic.
"Can't hurt"? You've got to be kidding.
Of course. But "there's a sucker born every minute."
People will believe what they want to. According to the NBC expose on the subject: "That's why Honda issued a memo to mechanics advising them
not to perform engine flushes. Other major car-makers, including Ford,
General Motors, and Nissan have all issued similar advisories against
the service." Nissan specifically stated that engine flushes of any sort will void all warranties.
The engineers who design auto engines intend them to run only in the presence of appropriate motor oil and nothing else. Now that means API service SN of the correct viscosity for the application. There will always be people who will put all sorts of stuff in the crankcases instead. FWIW, I follow my cars' manufacturer's recommendations and do nothing else. I keep my cars for decades and many hundreds of thousands of miles, use conventional oil, change it every 5K, use factory filters and have never had an engine failure, period. The heads have never been off any of my cars' engines or my father's. He did the same thing. "Can't hurt"? Are you kidding? Of course it can.
Oh, now I understand: It's all a great conspiracy by industry against you. They all want to prevent you from exercising your Constitutional right to be free and independent. Makes perfect sense...distorted but perfect. The government is hiding dead space aliens at area 51, too. There are no such things as evolution and climate change. The earth is only 6000 years old and the companies who make car engines, and their engineers, know less about what you should put in the crankcase than you do. Had an uncle who never changed his car's oil and it held up a long time, too. Grandfather's neighbor only drove in first gear...and his car outlasted him. So what? I have better things to do. Enjoy your life. Hope you're flushed with success.
#1 marketing tactic.. to help *you* out.
If you use the very best filter, highest detergent oil available, change it 1,000-1.500 miles ahead of factory intervals you never get any sludge buildup in the engine. The only sludged engines I have ever seen the oil was left in too long.
great job can we flush oil with diseal for pulsar 150cc bike
Difference between this and Liqui Moly Engine FLush? I'm due to change oil soon so looking for the best product.
You can run Marvel Mystery Oil in there which will keep everything clean you can also dump gas or diesel Inn without starting your engine letting it run down it'll flush stuff out and break up anything that's in the bottom and flush right out company I used to work for we had an RV that had a generator I used to change oil on it and every once in awhile I would dump a little bit of gas or diesel in their shake the engine around and drain it and if there was anything in there would come out you can also use Marvel Mystery Oil or seafoam on your last 500 miles if you don't want to leave the Marvel Mystery Oil in for the whole duration and it will slowly clean everything out I've never had a problem with sludge build-up I've always use Marvel Mystery Oil in my oil from the time that I replace the oil and my engine is spotless inside
Excellent
Only do this on small engines, never your car: Empty your engine oil and pour kerosene in and leave it there over over night. The next day, empty out there kerosene and flush with 1 quart of clean oil before putting in all the new oil.
That is some sound advice. Would do the same on a smaller engine too. BUT DO NOT TURN ON THE ENGINE WHEN KEROSENE IS INSIDE. DO NOT. DO NOT. DO NOT.
but just one question? Could the kerosene degrade certain rubber gaskets?
@@madingahmar4420 certain gaskets like transfer case to transmission maybe but not others
@@madingahmar4420 This guy did something similar on a car and seems like it worked out ok for him: ruclips.net/video/LqZqjc2aNfo/видео.html
@@madingahmar4420 I think if left overnight it could harm gaskets, I would only leave it in for an hour or so.
Leave any oil leaks and top up with fresh oil regularly - it's the "Constant Loss Lubrication System" .
Converted all my vehicles for decades...
very good demonstration
What happen to the crank shaft special oil? Also flush? Then that will cause more serious injured
I add about half a litre of fresh oil 1000km before a oil change.I'm no mechanic but the detergent in the fresh oil will break down the sludge enough drain away properly
Well, let's see, I always change my oil regularly and use synthetic of course. Never had an engine issue ever with having owned 31 cars over the years. I also, don't smoke, don't look down the barrel of my guns, and don't text while driving. Yep, got life figured out.
Ro Fu what does engine oil number means
ruclips.net/video/4zcyV5vy3pQ/видео.html
the gun joke got me good! (seriously though some people are dumbasses)
How do you know if cars are ok, if you drove each one just for a year?
@jhcreech1 ofcourse they dont, because they intended you to not maintain engine, ruin it as soon as possible and then buy new one! I think this stuff is working and its good for your engine..
is this work in diesel engine? huw much should i put in 3L engine diesel?
That product can work on diesel trucks?
Good video
What about an oilfilter?
i heard oil flushes can cause problems in a engine
Nice stuff
aftrr how many KMS We Should use this Flush oil..?
I would never do that to an engine. Why? Surface energy. To pull out any sludge, you have to break down the surface film oil should be leaving. You lose both wetting and viscosity. In other words, you compromise the oil's ability to lubricate. That's why they say to run the flush at idle speeds. The better solution is to use quality oils and change it out before it substantially breaks down. That's 2500-3000 miles for dino juice and 4000-6000 miles for good full synthetics. And always change it with the engine warm (but not so warm that the old oil would scald you)
Sounds like a re-branded marvels mystery oil
Is that applicable on motorcycles?
RUclips recomend me this video after 12 years
Oil flushed Worked once for me on a friends sludged up sohc civic but if I had to do it again I'd just change the oil every 1k miles until I came out clean
I usually drain oil hot then when it stops draining I’ll tip a litre of cheap oil through it so it pulls it through then plug up and refill
Or change the oil more often. I change it every 3-5.000 km. That way theres no time for stuff to build up. My engines look like new on the inside, when I open them.
Same here every 6 for me and nice and shiny inside 👍🏻
Chris, when yiu buy a used car, all ex owner talk crap about what they did or didn't do with their car, sometime just gotta do what you gotta do to fix their mess
Good
RUclips recommends this video to me after 12 years 😲
iv used this stuff and did a inspection pre use and after - don't bother its rubbish - i even left it in for a week just to see if it needed more time and still not much difference
correct a cup of trans fluid(DEX3/DX3) add to your old oil and the car driven for a week will also slowly clean the engine without disturbing the harmful carbon deposits, then a oil change and filter change run the engine till its next change then a week before add a cup of trans fluid and then run for a week
it will have the worst carboned/sludged up engines looking like new in about 4 oil changes
trans fluid dex does work good. i had ranger with a 4.0..sticky valve..put just under a half quart. the stick valve knock.. was gone in a week.
well i can not speak for the motul one, but i have used omega 907 for many years, and every time i use it i it removes all the buildup in my hydraulic lifters and in the bottom of my oil pan.
I've used this on a gazoline beemer that still had translucent brown oil and the oil that came out was totally black.
RUclips recommended me after 12 years.
I've heard that these flushes dislodge sludge/sediment, which then blocks oil ports - it makes matters worse!
@Agent 47 ...ok, let me get my screwdriver!!...why dont you you fart in a bag and sniff it!?!
Its true
Solvent based flushes are bad news. You can achieve a 99% oil exchange by completing a fill, run 10 minutes, drain and refill a second time with clean oil. Recycle the oil by using it in older vehicle, lawn equipment or for a second flush at the next oil change interval. Typical 15 minute oil change will leave 10-20% of the old oil in the sump. Question: would you buy oil that had a warning on the label that up to 20% of the oil was used, of unknown quality or condition? Mixed in the bottle or in the sump, doesn't matter.
From where I can get it
Maybe an oil blend w/diesel can clean up the engine before to change finally the engine oil.
It’s amazing ! Almost like cars don’t have oil filters to filter out suspended particles lol
Congrats on being a fucking idiot
You can always buy a cheap ATF, dump the old oil, fill it with 5qts of ATF, just run it like an engine flush 5-15min dump it and fill it with regular oil.
Prob good if you're way way overdue for an oil change and likely sludge inside imo. By that time you finished the flush you will get into more problems.
Can we use shine 125
Они ещё про димексид не знают)))
Trzeba fachowo po rozgrzaniu ,zmieniać olej co 10000 i wtedy nic nie trzeba płukać.
And where is the role of oil filter in this situation i mean is oil filter useless from day one?
That engine doesn't have a oil filter.
Oil filter no function?
I prefer using a few quarts of diesel engine oil and running it for a few hundred miles.
Use any quality engine oil and it will have enough cleaning additives to keep your engine clean
the only cleaning id trust is the manual cleaning of deposits and the correct maintenance of oil. adding additives dont magically just remove stuff. maybe in time...over MANY treatments...they might reduce...but not magically clean
RUclips recommend this after 12 years
even my lawn mower has an oil filter o.o
I tilt my Toyota Tacoma ever time I changed my oil with a jack you would be shocked to see how much oil is in the pan!!
Approximately 100ml
not much. unlike stupid moron manufacturers like BMW who put their oil drain plugs not on the lowest point on the oil pan, japanese cars let you drain them fully.
Simply add transformer oil 250ml into old engine oil then run bike 10km after flush out engine oil. All impurities of carbon cameout
Never bothered flushing synthetic oils they already do a good job of removing and preventing sludge
Garage always used to do it at each service, I got my oil from the same shop this time and changed it myself, no flush. I’m only doing 5k a year and the performance is fine atm.
It would probably be better to just drain the oil install your new oil filter and don't put your plug back on and just put a fuck ton of oil to flush the shit out
when you take your car in for service ask your garage if you can flush out your engine with diesel
Have i must put a flush every time when i change the oil?
you dont need to
❤️
I change my oil once every 3 years in my Rav4 with WalMart synthetic and have had no engine problems whatsoever.
absolutely, if oil changes are regular a flush does fuck all
My brother's 200k civic quit consuming oil after 2 oil changes before 3k, and top offs with marvel or full syn high mileage oil at 1,500mi.
It went from 3qt per 4k to 1/2qt per 3k. Just needed a good soak and an Italian tune up.
Italian tune up sounds risky on a car with that mileage, be it japanese
I drain my oil, and put in pure motor flush. 7 quarts, redline for 2 hours and good as new 🙃
that's not how it's designed to be used you probably shouldn't do that
@@MrMagichobo21 yeah i know, now i fill the crank case with 3 quarts of purified water and 2 quarts of gasoline. Washes it right out. So clean it squeaks when running now.
Good 1 mr jekly. Keep up that good stuf
Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil do the same job
So the magical green pixels will fix all my lifes problems?
What happens if I switch gears while doing Engine flush ?
I don't believe that is correct that compression is reduced by "sediment" or carbon build-up. Compression is actually INCREASED by build-up and as long as the rings hold compression, a car may actually GAIN power.
Agreed. Loss of compression is worn O-Rings and/or cylinder walls.
Sometimes rings can gum up and fail to do their job correctly.
actually, if you have years of carbon buildup in your cylinders, you lose compression because your car can only run a certain air/fuel ratio and has a max compression in lbs/in, since some of the volume of your cylinder is now carbon buildup, it can only compress slightly less air/fuel resulting in a smaller bang which causes you to have a loss of power.
When carbon builds it fouls the valve seats or stems and you can lose compression and lose a lot of power when the valves float at much lower rpms than they otherwise would.
The carbon build up on top of the cylinder and the piston the faster my son's go kart engine goes. We even run on castor to increase the process.
This can also lead to damages to BMW engines for using engine flush
Man someone should make a filter for the oil. Million, dare I say billion, dollar idea!
Im just use palm oil to clean the engine. Just drained the oil, and pour 800 ml run the engine for 10 - 15 minutes. Drain the palm oil back and pour a new engine oil..its easy and saved your money
This is just a video to try to sell more of their product, much of it is complete bullshit too. Most manufacturers have notices out stating to not perform engine flushes, they do more harm then good.
actually to save money because people would demand it with free maintenance plans
umm I did a flush with new oil and a bottle the oil looking like it was black after 10 minutes it works
Id agree on engines that have been well maintained and had regular oil changes, however every now and again you come across an engine which has not has regular oil changes and has a lot of gunk/sludge built up to the stage when you drain it it wont all come out (hot or cold) then you need a flushing oil
Just lol this shit will make a 20 years old car run like a new one after this video
waaaw
very effective and educational your video, but that kind of flush does not remove the sludge that is already clogging of the oil inside the engine. obstruction under extreme fluid oil, an oil change is very late, like add additives as these will not be able to run inside the engine and would waste money and engine lubrication continue without proper! the only solution is to clean it manually and it is expensive $ $ $ $ $
*cough Seafoam cough*
For me RUclips recommended this after 12 years
Масло меняйте не реже 7000км и ни когда таких отложений не увидите...не реже это значит от 5000 до 7000 кому как нравится,если не хотите вот этого всего
Sounds like a fine way to break up a nice piece of carbon-goop and get it stuck in and plugging up a galley that lubes say.. a main-bearing for instance.
But at least you'll have "supple" piston-rings before the mill catastrophically grenades. Seems like a decent trade-off to me.
does any auto manufacturer recommend using this product????
Jules the gamer no. Don’t buy into this bullshit. Just change your oil as normal and you’re ok
On my car BMW x3 F25 its writing where i put gasoline, dont use additives !
why didn't you say anything about the oil filter?!!!
Use an oil designed for diesel - it has more detergent in it
Thanks
I use wynn's oil system cleaner.
I am a car mechanic I flush engine with diesel take old oil out put sump nut back on put diesel in engine start for 30 seconds then take diesel out engine it go's in blue & comes out black then put new oil in
How to get it