Many good tips. Thanks! I'm working on an Olds 403 myself, so this was exactly what I have. I did have a situation where the trigger wheel was nicking the points of the pickup coil, so I did have to loosen the screws and center it up better to avoid the contact. Glad to know that it wasn't just me that it can happen to! One thing that I'd like to add is that there's a grease well at the top of the distributor housing, under the pickup coil. You can access it when the pickup coil is removed. It originally has a thin, round plastic cover over the grease well, which is easily broken when trying to remove it. But, it's a good idea to remove it and clean the dried grease from the grease well and add new grease there, since that helps lube the upper part of the distributor shaft through weep holes in the grease well. General purpose chassis grease, NOT for disc brakes is best to use, since it weeps better than high temp disc brake grease. If the original plastic cover breaks up and is unusable, you could cut your own cover from some thin plastic material, or I've also used a battery terminal felt cut to the right diameter and placed over the grease well to help seal it.
You're correct about the grease well. I did clean it out and repack it but edited that out of the video when I was trying to keep it short. A few people have pointed that out so I should go back and add that as text somewhere if I can remember how :) Thanks for watching!
Also, the white compound that goes under the module is heat sink compound, and it helps prolong the life of the module by drawing heat that's created in the module down into the distributor body, keeping the module cooler. So, the heat sink compound must be used or the module won't last as long as it should. Some people think dielectric grease can be used for that, but it needs to be the white heat sink compound for best results.
Wow, thank you! I realized later I edited out a few small details but that's the basics of what you can anticipate. I hope it helps! Thanks for watching!!
Wound up getting a '57 Chevy Distributor for free from a friend yesterday and managed to take it apart on my desk. Unfortunately the oil pump shaft was warped and it was a pain to get out but I managed to do it. The actual distributor body looks it good shape. If the shaft was warped just slightly (enough to turn freely but be a pain to get out) Would it have done damage to the body? If not I was thinking on converting it to HEI style and putting a new shaft in it to build a new setup for my Van.
Mine did not have a felt washer in it but they often do, you’re right about that. There’s usually a clear plastic washer over the wells to keep the grease in the pockets though
Is there any special technique removing original points distributor? Got a hei for my olds 350 but original only lift an inch and can't seem to pull it out
Adam Taylor they can be tough to get out because of old oil turning thick at the top or the O-ring getting hard with age. It could also be the oil pump shaft sticking in the hex drive section of the distributor from old oil hardening up. If you can raise it an inch try spraying some WD-40 at the base of the distributor and working it up and down and left and right. It may come out that way in time.
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This video is now 7yrs old and absolutely saved my butt today!!
YOU SIR are a legend!!!
Thank you.
Happy it helped! Thanks for watching the video and best of luck with your car 👍
Many good tips. Thanks! I'm working on an Olds 403 myself, so this was exactly what I have. I did have a situation where the trigger wheel was nicking the points of the pickup coil, so I did have to loosen the screws and center it up better to avoid the contact. Glad to know that it wasn't just me that it can happen to! One thing that I'd like to add is that there's a grease well at the top of the distributor housing, under the pickup coil. You can access it when the pickup coil is removed. It originally has a thin, round plastic cover over the grease well, which is easily broken when trying to remove it. But, it's a good idea to remove it and clean the dried grease from the grease well and add new grease there, since that helps lube the upper part of the distributor shaft through weep holes in the grease well. General purpose chassis grease, NOT for disc brakes is best to use, since it weeps better than high temp disc brake grease. If the original plastic cover breaks up and is unusable, you could cut your own cover from some thin plastic material, or I've also used a battery terminal felt cut to the right diameter and placed over the grease well to help seal it.
You're correct about the grease well. I did clean it out and repack it but edited that out of the video when I was trying to keep it short. A few people have pointed that out so I should go back and add that as text somewhere if I can remember how :) Thanks for watching!
Okay great. Thanks for making the video, since it was very helpful!
Also, the white compound that goes under the module is heat sink compound, and it helps prolong the life of the module by drawing heat that's created in the module down into the distributor body, keeping the module cooler. So, the heat sink compound must be used or the module won't last as long as it should. Some people think dielectric grease can be used for that, but it needs to be the white heat sink compound for best results.
I was going to add this comment myself if nobody else had. You are correct, it is thermal grease. Not insulating grease.
Best Distributor Video I've ever seen. Great job! Thank you now I am more comfortable with building one on my desk.
Wow, thank you! I realized later I edited out a few small details but that's the basics of what you can anticipate. I hope it helps! Thanks for watching!!
Wound up getting a '57 Chevy Distributor for free from a friend yesterday and managed to take it apart on my desk. Unfortunately the oil pump shaft was warped and it was a pain to get out but I managed to do it. The actual distributor body looks it good shape. If the shaft was warped just slightly (enough to turn freely but be a pain to get out) Would it have done damage to the body? If not I was thinking on converting it to HEI style and putting a new shaft in it to build a new setup for my Van.
Awesome video. You showed me everything I anticipated I might need to replace. Excelsior!
Thank you!
You don't have to fill the wells under the pick-up coil with grease or use a felt washer on an Oldsmobile like a Chevy?
Mine did not have a felt washer in it but they often do, you’re right about that. There’s usually a clear plastic washer over the wells to keep the grease in the pockets though
Is there any special technique removing original points distributor? Got a hei for my olds 350 but original only lift an inch and can't seem to pull it out
Adam Taylor they can be tough to get out because of old oil turning thick at the top or the O-ring getting hard with age. It could also be the oil pump shaft sticking in the hex drive section of the distributor from old oil hardening up. If you can raise it an inch try spraying some WD-40 at the base of the distributor and working it up and down and left and right. It may come out that way in time.
@@olzkng thanks I'll give that a go. I'm sure that's what it'll be.
How do you know if the pick-up wire is broke.
There will be no spark when a pick up wire breaks
Thanks, would like to know why you said son of a B ?
prospector77777 because I was trying to hold it to work on it and it kept falling over. I was getting aggravated
amigo como pruebas la bobina captadora vivo en venezuela y me podras enviar el video en´ español
profesor el video no lo entiendo me podrias enviarmelo en español vivo en venezuela