Thanks for the series, Adam. I was doing a 98 125 build. I have a manual, but prefer the visual. It's all nearly the same. I had forgotten to check the orientation of the bearing with a grove for the two clips. The clips installed fine, but I had to know. So I opened her back up to check thanks to your tip. It was good, but I didn't want to overlook that. Installing the shift drum in gear made installing the shifter and pawl assembly much easier. I tried in neutral initially and had shifting problems. Lubing the drum and gears during assembly also helps a lot testing. So thanks there.
PLEASE! Do More Builds AND Keep Up The Great Work Bro!! You clearly walk us all through this awesome build and teach us all some new things that we may have not known before. But I really like to see these kinds of Custom/Resto/ReBuild Builds Because it shows what a little bit of hard work and time can do with something that was Old, Not Taking cared of, And was almost trashed. Seriously... keep up the great work Dude, And I hope to see a lot more builds of different bikes or projects!
Hope your shoulder feels better buddy keep up the good work and keep doing you also very good video it showed me everything i wanted to know thank you 😊
Btw if you have you engine head on you can shove some paracord or thin rope down the spark plug hole to lock the piston up if you need to take your flywheel off
Adam: I'm about to restore my 2nd dirt bike. My first one I sent the engine out for the rebuild, but this time around I'm going to do it myself. I've been watching a lot of engine rebuild videos and yours are up there with the best of them. Question...when you refer to referencing the "service manual" are you referring to the CLYMER service manuals (easy to find) or the manufacturer "Shop Manuals" (a little tougher to find for a bike from 1977) Can you clarify please and if you have a good source for Shop Manuals point me in the right direction. Thanks for the help....love your content.
where do you order parts like that locking tab/ washer (18:55). i might need a few parts for my rebuild that i cannot source the normal places, like i might need some new gears (hopefully its just a shift fork/ the shift drum) because the reason for rebuild is 3rd gear popping in and out/ not properly engaging.
Hey Adam ! Thanks for your video ! It helps me a lot on my CR rebuilding work ! I see on your videos really good mécanical graphics/diagrams ! Where can I find the same ? Because I work with the official Honda manual but this one is not very easy ... Thank you man ! :)
I had to replace the crankshaft seal on my 1999 cr125 did the seal and the collar put it all back together but it won't start it started and drove perfectly before I took it apart any help really appreciated
So many videos showing the crank oil seal (clutch side) being fitted one way or the other IE spring side (backwards) facing out and spring facing in so what's the right way ?
Great video, very high attention to detail, made it a lot easier for me in my 2000 CR125 rebuild, however i’m stuck at putting the collared piece onto the shaft. it is very tight and does not slide on as easy as your does? any help you could give me ?
Hey man ok can someone help me here I put the shifter back togeather where the cluch basket goes. That black peace that has the 3 bolts that covers the bearing will not let me tighten it or the bearing won’t move when tight.. do I need to split the cases back again and change that bearing? It acts as it’s pushed out to far
Hi Adam really helpful video! but can you please tell me how to set ignition timing on a cr125 2000 model please its kinda urgent, I'd really appreciate your quick response
True, But you can still see the gear before you put the left side crankcase on. I’m not sure about an 03 but on earlier models those slots/grooves are only on one side and that’s what the teeth on the dog gear mate up to.
Hope you don't mind if I jump in here. Hoping this info may help anyone else that may be confused on this, as I was during my rebuild. I looked up the exploded parts views for the transmission for both a 2000 and a 2003. Both carry the same part number for that particular gear, but if you look at the exploded view from one to the other. The 2000 shows that particular gear with the smooth side showing toward the spline end. The 2003 shows the indented end towards the spline end. My theory is in 2003 they redesigned the gear and possibly have the indenting on both sides? Probably a manufacturing change? I used Babbitt's parts diagrams for this info. By the way great videos!!
I’m having a n issue that’s holding me up! I have a 2003 Cr125, every time I torque my gear ratchet down around the bearing, my gears seize. I can’t figure out what it is, I have opened my case like 5 time already I can’t figure it out! Plz help Somebody!!!
just loosen the two bolts behind the flywheel to the stator and turn the stator either cw or ccw for the desired affect. Don't even need to take the flywheel off
I know this comment is 5 months old, but if you're still looking for an answer: soak them in whatever transmission oil you'll be using in the bike. Overnight should be enough.
@@adampaganelli4891 what do you mean...you just guessed? I know my yz250 stock setting is .002" below top dead center. It could be advanced or retarded from stock depending on how you tightened down the stator. That's why it's slotted, for adjustment.
Dylans503, you need a timing light to set ignition timing on a Honda. In order to do this I would have to have the engine running before I adjust the timing. In this case I got the bike started and have been very happy with how it’s running so I haven’t taken the time to remove the flywheel weight and verify that the timing is what it should be. If the bike was not running as it was supposed to this would be something I would check.
Only reason to ever oil gaskets is to be able to reuse them when you pull everything back apart Glue impregnated paper gaskets have to be clean and dry and that’s why when you pull it apart you need a powerful solvent or gasket scraper because you have a perfect seal! Just like a head gasket clean and dry
Awesome video buddy, currently rebuilding my 01 cr 125 and wouldn't be able to do it without you're help, thank you!
Thanks for the series, Adam. I was doing a 98 125 build. I have a manual, but prefer the visual. It's all nearly the same. I had forgotten to check the orientation of the bearing with a grove for the two clips. The clips installed fine, but I had to know. So I opened her back up to check thanks to your tip. It was good, but I didn't want to overlook that. Installing the shift drum in gear made installing the shifter and pawl assembly much easier. I tried in neutral initially and had shifting problems. Lubing the drum and gears during assembly also helps a lot testing. So thanks there.
I am actually assembling a CR500, this video is extremely helpful as most are very similar
Dam this was helpful. I'm going to assemble my engine this weekend hope it goes this smoothly haha. Keep up the awesome work.
Thanks man! I love watching your videos as well
FULL THROTTLE FILMZ ayy cool to see you here😆
How did it go
Where did you get that notebook from bro?
Great series on the cr125. It was a huge help on out rebuild
PLEASE! Do More Builds AND Keep Up The Great Work Bro!! You clearly walk us all through this awesome build and teach us all some new things that we may have not known before. But I really like to see these kinds of Custom/Resto/ReBuild Builds Because it shows what a little bit of hard work and time can do with something that was Old, Not Taking cared of, And was almost trashed. Seriously... keep up the great work Dude, And I hope to see a lot more builds of different bikes or projects!
Awesome 👌🏻 Makes me wanna do mine, must be sweet riding with a fresh motor!
Part two just as good as part one! Thanks
Hope your shoulder feels better buddy keep up the good work and keep doing you also very good video it showed me everything i wanted to know thank you 😊
Btw if you have you engine head on you can shove some paracord or thin rope down the spark plug hole to lock the piston up if you need to take your flywheel off
Adam great vid. I hope your shoulder heals soon!
Parabéns pelo trabalho tenho uma cr 125 ano 2000
Great Video/First class
Killin it bro keep it up!!!
Thanks homie!
Please share your review and riding experience post build.
Also how do you suggest we go about breaking it in
Adam: I'm about to restore my 2nd dirt bike. My first one I sent the engine out for the rebuild, but this time around I'm going to do it myself. I've been watching a lot of engine rebuild videos and yours are up there with the best of them. Question...when you refer to referencing the "service manual" are you referring to the CLYMER service manuals (easy to find) or the manufacturer "Shop Manuals" (a little tougher to find for a bike from 1977) Can you clarify please and if you have a good source for Shop Manuals point me in the right direction. Thanks for the help....love your content.
where do you order parts like that locking tab/ washer (18:55). i might need a few parts for my rebuild that i cannot source the normal places, like i might need some new gears (hopefully its just a shift fork/ the shift drum) because the reason for rebuild is 3rd gear popping in and out/ not properly engaging.
Hey Adam ! Thanks for your video ! It helps me a lot on my CR rebuilding work ! I see on your videos really good mécanical graphics/diagrams ! Where can I find the same ? Because I work with the official Honda manual but this one is not very easy ... Thank you man ! :)
You are a fan of Cameron right?
Great videos man keep it up
Great video!! What torque wrench are you using?
Did the timing ever come into consideration in this rebuild would like to know as rebuilding one myself at the minute
I had to replace the crankshaft seal on my 1999 cr125 did the seal and the collar put it all back together but it won't start it started and drove perfectly before I took it apart any help really appreciated
So many videos showing the crank oil seal (clutch side) being fitted one way or the other IE spring side (backwards) facing out and spring facing in so what's the right way ?
Great video, very high attention to detail, made it a lot easier for me in my 2000 CR125 rebuild, however i’m stuck at putting the collared piece onto the shaft. it is very tight and does not slide on as easy as your does? any help you could give me ?
Appreciate it man!
-Which is collared piece and shaft are you referring to? At what time in the video am I installing it?
The collared piece at about 16:05 that goes through the shaft into the oil seal for the main bearing
What’s not working for you? It should slide in there with medium pressure
Awesome video, super helpful. When is part 3 gonna be out?
Thanks man! I’m waiting for parts on part 3, but I upload atleast once a week so hoping to have it up next Saturday
Phenomenal video. Your help is greatly appreciated. I subbed you also.
I have a question, if you scotchbrite the bolts does that take off the plating off the bolts.
What is the amount and the best type of oil to put in the engine of the cr 125??
I followed his steps but my shifter won’t move it’s stuck any tips?
Without this video I would've been done for on my bike putting in the shift detent stuff on the right outer case😂
Haha I’m glad the videos are helping
26:00 saved me
Hey man ok can someone help me here I put the shifter back togeather where the cluch basket goes. That black peace that has the 3 bolts that covers the bearing will not let me tighten it or the bearing won’t move when tight.. do I need to split the cases back again and change that bearing? It acts as it’s pushed out to far
Hi Adam really helpful video! but can you please tell me how to set ignition timing on a cr125 2000 model please its kinda urgent, I'd really appreciate your quick response
This part scares me too for I didn't take notice of the timing when I disassembled
Dumb question but is second gear on backwards?
What makes you say that?
The last gear you put on the countershaft (closest to sprocket) appears to be inside out.... unless it’s made the same on both sides?
I didn’t install second gear in this video
True, But you can still see the gear before you put the left side crankcase on. I’m not sure about an 03 but on earlier models those slots/grooves are only on one side and that’s what the teeth on the dog gear mate up to.
Hope you don't mind if I jump in here. Hoping this info may help anyone else that may be confused on this, as I was during my rebuild. I looked up the exploded parts views for the transmission for both a 2000 and a 2003. Both carry the same part number for that particular gear, but if you look at the exploded view from one to the other. The 2000 shows that particular gear with the smooth side showing toward the spline end. The 2003 shows the indented end towards the spline end. My theory is in 2003 they redesigned the gear and possibly have the indenting on both sides? Probably a manufacturing change? I used Babbitt's parts diagrams for this info. By the way great videos!!
I’m having a n issue that’s holding me up! I have a 2003 Cr125, every time I torque my gear ratchet down around the bearing, my gears seize. I can’t figure out what it is, I have opened my case like 5 time already I can’t figure it out! Plz help Somebody!!!
Is there no way to adjuste ignition timing on a cr 125? im currently rebuilding a 2004 which looks identical
just loosen the two bolts behind the flywheel to the stator and turn the stator either cw or ccw for the desired affect. Don't even need to take the flywheel off
What type of oil would you soak the friction plates in?
I know this comment is 5 months old, but if you're still looking for an answer: soak them in whatever transmission oil you'll be using in the bike. Overnight should be enough.
Do u really need alll of these tool, could u use regular day tools
Please post a link where to see the detail how to assemble and correctly time the bottom gear of the hpp arm
Check out my video on prepping cylinders
anyone know the torque value for the 2 stator bolts? its not in my cr 125 2004 manual, just says tighten securely!
Question. If the lifter rod is in will the clutch not engage ?
The litter rod is what moves your clutch inwards and outwards. Not sure what you mean by in
Ocd was playing up when you put the yz plates in and used your old metal plates 😭
Haha watch the next video
Would this video apply to a 2000 cr125 too
There would be a lot of similarities though not 100% the same
top gear on transmission on backwards
You don't mess with adjusting the timing through the magneto and stator?
Didn’t need to on this engine
@@adampaganelli4891 what do you mean...you just guessed? I know my yz250 stock setting is .002" below top dead center. It could be advanced or retarded from stock depending on how you tightened down the stator. That's why it's slotted, for adjustment.
Dylans503, you need a timing light to set ignition timing on a Honda. In order to do this I would have to have the engine running before I adjust the timing. In this case I got the bike started and have been very happy with how it’s running so I haven’t taken the time to remove the flywheel weight and verify that the timing is what it should be. If the bike was not running as it was supposed to this would be something I would check.
Is there a part 3??
Yes, there’s a playlist on my channel
Adam Paganelli so when I go to the channel the next video powder coating after part 2 where is part 3 ?
When’s part 3 coming out? And can you explain in depth how to assembly the powervalve gear shit😂
Should be coming soon and I will definitely be doing a detailed power valve video, probably won’t be until part 4
Where did u order the star or from
Stator
Www.steahlyoffroad.com
www.steahlyoffroad.com/honda-cr-250-2003-2007-flywheel-weight-514
Would I be able to use a racing grease instead of assembly lube
bkugn vjtgnj
Don’t use grease for assembly lube but if you can’t find assembly lube just use engine oil
Did you put grease to the middle gasket? Wth? You should use some silicon gasket staff, not grease!
Do not ever grease or oil your gaskets!! Clean and dry
What’s your logic behind that?
Only reason to ever oil gaskets is to be able to reuse them when you pull everything back apart
Glue impregnated paper gaskets have to be clean and dry and that’s why when you pull it apart you need a powerful solvent or gasket scraper because you have a perfect seal!
Just like a head gasket clean and dry
where you found the mounting map for the engine. Those per minute 12:28
Where did u get the service manual from?
Online
you can get all the scamatics you want about whatever bike you have on rocky mountain atvcom