Tools, Glorious Tools! #5 - The Pyrometer
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2024
- Hey Folks,
A new TGT episode all about the shop made foundry pyrometer, do please enjoy!
Cheers,
Chris.
________________________________________________________
A very special thank you to Patrons:
Sinking Valley Woodworks (www.sinkingvalleywoodworks.com)
Glenn Trewitt
Mike Manfrin
Christopher Warnock
Guy Loughridge
Charles Frodsham & Co.
Peter John Richardson
Adam Slagle
Tim Bray
Dan Keen
Samuel Irons
Sean Kuyper
Matteo Neville
Daniel Cohen
Larry Pardi
Olof Haggren
Stassinopoulos Thomas
Florian Ragwitz
Andrew Smith
Bernd Fischer
Sam Towne
Jack Cause
Jeremiah G. Mort
Andre van Soest
Matthew Middleton
Thomas Veilleux
Dave Seff
Robin Haerens
L'Enfant Watch Company
C. A. Patrick Voigt
Mark Coburn
Bogdan Dan
Steven R. Crider
Gary Levario
Pete Askew
Jeff Armstrong
Rudolph Bescherer Jr
Robert Petz
Ralph McCoy
Jim Popwell
Kaedenn
Bradley Pirtle
Alan Carey
PaxAndromeda
John A McCormick
Thomas Eriksen
Michael Hardel
Tim Ball
Dominik Rogala
Xanadu-King
Eric Witte
Peter
Grant Michener
Jonathan Teegarden
Steve Hossner
RuKiddin06
________________________________________________________
------------- Video Notes: --------------
Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Ingot Moulds: amzn.to/2pfpgWz
K-Type Digital Thermometer: amzn.to/2FFuGUN
High Temp K-Type Thermocouple: www.ebay.com/p/27004725848
K Type Cable Connectors/Male Thermocouple Adapters: www.ebay.com/itm/364155774454
10mm Carbon Rods: www.ebay.com/itm/385153939655 
Развлечения
The real hero here is the inanimate carbon rod. All hail the rod!
In rod we trust.
I'm glad we got good close-ups of the rod.
I am just relieved that this joke hasn’t faded from public memory.
"I'll show you inanimate!"
Came here because I knew this comment would be here somewhere. Upvoted.
I expected the carbon rod to be turned and polished to a mirror finish and blued to be honest. Oh well, still enjoyable!
Lol.
Blued on a bed of shiny magic corn chips 😏
"...enjoy the fun of pouring molten metal". A phrase not heard very often. 😁
All thermocouples that comply woth ANSI use red insulation for the negative lead. If IEC, they use white. The two most common types are J and K. J type thermocouples are white/red (ANSI) or black/white (IEC). K type are yellow/white or green/white. J type has the best response from -210 to 1200 C (-346 to 2193 F. K type response is -270 to 1372 C (-454 to 2501 F). On the connector plug, the wider tang is usually negative. The usual reason to select K type over J type is that above 750 C, the iron in the J type is susceptible to oxidation, whereas the K type is aluminel/chromel. The K type can be damaged by reducing atmosphes, and is sibject to drift over time, requiring periodic replacement.
I've watched many other channels about pouring metal and they only tell you that they use a pyrometer. FINALLY, someone shows how to build one. Thanks for sharing.
Once again you show me things i never would have thought of. Tapping a solid carbon rod? No way i would ever thought of that.
I enjoyed the close-ups of the inanimate carbon rod.
I started subscribing to this channel just short of two weeks ago. I have watched all your videos now and I can't wait for new content. It is rare to find someone with such talent and immersive personality that actually documents and shares his knowledge. Thank you Chris for all your content!
I had no idea you could tap carbon so easily. This is amazing, and a really cool build. That'll be the next thing I make. Thanks!
This channel is an absolute Gem.
Thank you for your hardwork and dedication to sharing your knowledge and methods.
Nice video chris. You can do the rod test also, which you take a 6mm or 10mm steel rod and preheat it in the furnace exhaust first, then you stick it in the metal, if the metal balls up on it when it's pulled from the melt, then it's too cold and needs to be heated more, if it leaves a thin shell on it that's paper thin, then it's perfect pouring temp for most stuff, and if the metal repels the steel rod like magnets, then the metal's too hot and needs to be taken out and cooled down. That's a good alternative to needing a pyrometer for someone getting started in metal casting, and works with aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, and other metals all the same.
Thank you mate, I had not heard of that method will give it a try! Thanks for sharing :)
I never thought about a wetting test, but that's awesome!
@@Clickspring Yea, the rod trick is an old foundryman's trick that's been around forever.
Another thing, youre using borax or boric acid as a cover/flux for brass/bronze/copper alloys, I really wouldnt do that because it attacks the crucibles horribly badly. It was common to do before people realized how bad it was, mostly as a glassy cover to help prevent oxygen from reacting with the metal and absorbing into the metal, forming porousity, but if you run your burner slightly rich for copper based alloys so there's not free oxygen, it does the same thing and doesnt eat your crucibles or lining either. I run mine that way and it is much easier to melt the stuff, no porosity in bronzes, and no very little oxide on the melts too.
Great set up on the probe. The spring is genius. That carbon rod behaved on the lathe. Great new series! 👍 😃
Such a neat design. Love how you bored and tapped the carbon rod. Quality work 👌👏👏👍😀
This guy is probably the only one that could pull off drilling a carbon rod and then tapping it without shattering the rod
I'd shatter it just mounting it in the chuck haha
I remember some sort of japanese TV show where someone drilled through a pencil lead. Kind of a race between a lathe and a edm machine
I once shattered a carbon rod just by looking at it.
Through a monitor on the other side of the world.
@@ricos1497 You must be related to Chuck Norris.
@@afjieaf80eg "supreme skills" is the name of the show. I love it!!
Thanks for the video! The carbon sleeve is a very effective protection for an inexpensive Chinese thermocouple probe.
That was pretty much what I needed to know.
Thanks for posting.
Im not a black smith or a machinist but you explain everything in these videos so clearly whilst making it still interesting and easy going which I think is quite a rare skill. (Also the video editing is top notch too)
Tools can always be designed
It's an inanimate carbon rod! In Rod we trust.
Wow, so simple and well thought out! Always a pleasure to see your work
The balanced grip killed it!
really enjoy and appreciate the process videos for us folks who are dipping our toes into this stuff. In another era this would be the top rated show on national usa PBS, just outstanding quality
It’s really awesome having you posting again!
My current pyrometer is made from a Zirconium Dioxide rod and aerogel for insulated parts. I’ve yet to see any degradation. 😊
This is timely; I have started the process of figuring what was needed to get more accurate temps in the crucible. This video is very helpful. Many thanks for sharing your set up!!!
I really look forward to these.
The words "home foundry" are delightfully absurd.
And yet, simultaneously so incredibly cheap and simple.
I also get confused looks when i mention I'm a hobby brain surgeon 🤪
@@DasIllu I've had people look at me like I grew an extra head when I told them I dabble in homemade pyrotechnics...
i build my own out of a 20lb propane tank with the top turned into a lid, and lined with kao wool. i would recommend it to anyone! melting down aluminum cans is very relaxing.
@@chrisgenovese8188 Ceramic wool rocks. I use satanite to face it.
Nice work on the carbon protection sleeve👍
more joyfulness
thats pretty slick.
seeing as the thermocouple is inside the carbon rod, you could probably use a naked thermocouple instead of the more expensive stainless steel encased ones. Use a borosilicate glass sleeve inside the carbon rod to insulate the TC.
He works at temperatures up to 1200°C. At these temperatures glass, even borosilicate, is just a puddle. He could get away with pure silica tubing which will withstand up to 1500°C but that is very difficult to obtain and needs an oxygen/hydrogen flame to to work it. Despite its issues carbon rod is the easier option.
Is there no end to this guy's ingenuity?
Yo me dedico a la armería y tus videos son de mucha inspiración para hacer mis mecanismos para mis armas , es un órgasmo visual ver cómo conviertes el metal en obras de ingeniería complejas , dios bendiga tus manos creadoras
What a tops bit of advice!
Thank you for sharing
After about 5 or 6 years of blacksmithing, i'm pretty much able to evaluate a temperature with a 25/30 degrees C margin by eye. Wich is kinda lame compared to what a pyrometer can show, but it requires just skill, so no tools or complicated technology, and it only takes a glance. Tho i wonder how far you can train your eye... Maybe the most skilled could rival low end pyrometers, i'd be curious to experiment with that
I had to drill a whole bunch of carbon rods 25 years ago. The bin filled up real quick with dull drillbits, that couldn't be resharpened. The cutting phase was gone over the whole length
Have you ever seen the carbon ark electrode, it's weird how it can protect something from so much heat, but if used in a different way can produce a lot of heat
I always jumped at the chance to use those, it’s so much fun!
I never thought I'd see you pull one of Tony's "cutting the stock with your hands" editing tricks. It was so well-executed, I almost believed it was real! (Looks like your bandsaw went a bit sideways at the end of the cut. Did the carbon slip out of the vise? I can see that happening: you've got to clamp gently on it, since graphite breaks pretty easily.)
Hey you're back! Love to see you upload
This is so helpful thank you for showing just a small why to help just so much.
well done and thank you.
In germany, a pyeometer is a device which estimates the temperature by comparing the red to white hot glow if a surface against a calibrated glowing sort-of light bulb. What you show is simply called a thermocouple, interesting how names change from country to country.
I should get one of those, but my small projects rarely need that level of accuracy.
A very cool gadget! Sure beats my method of seeing how long I can hold my (former) hand in the for before the burning feeling stops! XD
Neat ! makes me wanna build a foundry !!....cheers.
I don’t think you get enough credit for your choice of background music. I love some jazz.
Why a thermocouple with Steel tube? It expand the dimension and slow down the measure process for more cost. Great Video, Love youre Channel!
Glorious!
i hadn't even considered that. nice
Aaawwww, they were about to show a close up of the rod!
Great video as always - I am a big fan!
A minor point of contention: a pyrometer (as mentioned in the title) is an optical gadget that measures radiation. Both it and a thermocouple can be used for thermometers.
Looking forward to the next video already!
If you know the material - you can use a visible light camera to approximate the temperature due to predictable black body radiation showing up in the visible range. So you could theoretically make a phone app. Just have to be careful with avoiding any processing like white balacing and knowing exactly what the spectral reponse is of the red and blue cfa.
If you can get a type R or S thermocouple you can get up to about 1750 degrees C.
yay
I assume the temperature levels out quickly, but how much of an insulating effect does the carbon sleeve add?
Two narrated videos in two weeks! And it isn't even my birthday!
Carbon is a really good insulator so is there a variance to the actual temp?
Have you tried using a high range IR thermometer? Curious as to if you have a preference/reason for a preference between that and a thermocouple, as I have seen some with relatively high ranges for pretty affordable prices.
reflectivity might be an issue, and as well this video originally came out for patrons years ago, prices for IR thermometers werent so affordable then
IR thermometer accuracy depends on the thermal emissivity of what you're measuring. Granted, most metals are quite emissive when molten, but they still only indicate the surface temperature, not the core/bulk temperature of the material.
Also, the less expensive ones tend to just give up above 200 degrees.
edit: I missed that bit about high-range, but the other conditions still apply.
i use one for forge welding billets of damaascus and for mokume gane. they are excellent but take some practice aiming because the laser dots tend to disappear amongst the glow of the forge and metal.
Does the sleeve influence the probe reading? How do you calibrate it?
Hi Chris. Have used a lot of those K-Type probes for everything from freezers to forges with Arduino. They are cheap and I found them to be very accurate. Never thought about the carbon sheath idea. Do you get the rods from local welding/engineering shops. Not sure what the NSW equiv would be for Nth QLD
What type of k type thermocouple? Most of the ones I see only go to 300- 500C, is that high enough, or do I need a high temperature one that goes to 1300C?
A question in relation to the heat conductivity of carbon between the fluid in the furnace and the thermocouple. Is the heat transmitted 100% or is it less due to heat loss in the carbon? i.e. molten metal is 1000 degrees - does the thermocouple read 1000 degrees or 995?
👍
If humanity survives the coming apocalypse you'll be one of those who restarts civilization.
I suggest magnetic holding for the thermometer, seems nicer.
Just snapped the carbon rod to the required length in ThisOldTony style 😲
It seems like the spring is losing springiness in the heat
Wow, 2 videos in the same quarter!
Chris how do you know the temp is fully realized through the carbon? Do you have to compensate for the probe being inside the tube?
When the recorded temperature is stable, you can be reasonably certain that the temperature of the probe is the same as the outside of the carbon tube.
I am always fan of you. But here is a question, why you are not using infra red non contact thermometer?
Mmmmm, py... 🍮 👀
Is it possible to get thermocouples with any specialty coatings in case one does not wish to use the carbon sleeve, but still keep the dross and slag off the probe?
I wonder if you could used a carbon arc rod for gouging.
I use a laser. It is awesome! Up to 4000 F.
Awesome, thank you 👍. By the way, how long does it take to register the temperature?
Nice job RUclips
Hello Chris,
I'm in Cairns too. Where do you purchase your Brass/Steel Bar stock & Plate from in Australia ?
(Hobby quantities).
Suppliers I've contacted, will only sell in minimum 2m lengths.
Cheers
Mark
Hi Mark, I'd suggest looking for Model Engineering suppliers:
E and J Winter - Bolton Scale Models - Bathurst
Hobby Mechanics - Sunnybank Sth
Both supply 300mm lengths as standard with special cuts to order.
⭐🙂👍
Very cool and easy to make. Would an Infrared Thermometer work also?
Unfortunately no.
Things that glow yellow are no longer in the Infrared.
@@CorwynGCinfrayellow?
@@danharold3087 Thanks for the answer. Funny thing, my name is Dan Herold with an E. The svsoulmate was my boats name. 😂
Cool
"extinction pyrometer" are a thing. A filament light bulb, as the voltage is increased the filament glows. When it's the same colour as the molten metal just read off the temperature indicated in the veritable resistor that controls the voltage to the bulb. Calibration is awkward but it's a no contact way of measuring the temperature. Just a thought.
Can you give us an update on your skeleton clock? Where is it now and does it still run well? Do you keep it wound and ticking all the time in your home?
So what's the difference between the probe contacting hot liquid vs heated through the carbon sleeve up to that same temperature?
Wait is the probe an interference fit in the carbon rod? Like does the probe need to contact the carbon rod to read accurately?
This carbon rods look like they would be a great training material for a new large operator, or are they too brittle for that?
i dont understand, how does physically shielding the actual probe from the molten metal prevent it from melting? since it is subject to the same temperature.
It WILL melt if the temperature gets to the melting point of the stainless steel but that is much higher than the temperatures he is working at.
What keeps the probe from melting inside the carbon?
I'm surprised that a thermal grease of some sort isn't required to get a fast reading from the probe.
That's because at these temperatures, heat transfer is dominated by infrared radiation. Since the thermocouplenis surrounded by the hot carbon, heat radiates in until it reaches an equilibrium. And since the heat flux is substantial, that equilibrium is reached fairly quickly. I wouldn't be surprised to find that conduction through the carbon rod is actually the slower part of that heat flux - at these temperatures.
The tune around 3:00 is like velvet to the ears, what is it?
Holaaa
Can't you use some sort of infrared thermometer?
If the carbon is ablating are you really getting an accurate temperate reading?
The carbon rod you use is what kind?
The best source seems to be carbon gouging rods used by welders. Most are copper coated but I think the copper peels off. Maybe someone can verify this.
It is the carbony rod kind of a carbon rod.
The inanimate kind.
Where's the fan?
Wouldn't be easier to use a laser thermometer?
They typically cap at too low of a temperature, and the reflection off the surface totally mungs the reading. I can point at molten aluminium and it might only read 500f!
Laser thermometers use infrared, specifically they measure the brightness at 2 different wavelengths, then fit the bell curve of black body radiation to fit the readings.
Things that are hot enough to glow are too hot for this method to work.
What is it with Aussie men and the insatiable desire to melt metal?
Must be the room temperature. Looked like it was 28. Right now that appeals, it’s 2 and pouring with rain and I’m getting the evil eye from the dog.
How many times did you wash your hands during this video!?! Looks so messy!
Thank god the I word was not used😜
Because you seem like a nerd of fine tools, fit, and finish. i suggest to you tear off that Velcro, and get yourself some 3M Dual Lock. it is a much more firm connection, so you get the repeatability without the slop. srsly bro, try it. that shit changed my life.
No knurling or mirror finish on the sleve? Disapointed.
A bit too nerdie for me.