exterior door / stave core
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- Опубликовано: 27 мар 2024
- One of the many ways to build exterior doors, especially in this modern world of design. Where thermal properties and architectural styles, which are not  conducive to wood movement must be engineered#doors#wadkintemple #millwork #Exterior doors#carpentry #houseconstruction #architecture
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Mighty fine work sir.
Beautiful door and amazing craftsmanship! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
10 out of 10 !!!! Amazing work my friend.....
Thank you! Cheers!
As a 19 year carpenter, sir, that is some beautiful wood work.
Thank you very much!
@@jackEnglishmachines no problem, much respect
Awesome work Jack! The joinery, fit, finish all look great.
Thanks 👍
Nice
Well done Captain Jack😉👍👍👍
✌️
Wow. What a sweet experience it will be to walk through that finished build and install. Luxury and strength!
We agree!
Un trabajo muy inspirador y de calidad !
thank you 🙏
Love your content, I really enjoy when you explain your thoughts on why you do things a certain way. I built a door in sapele for my shop this year. If you have a panel that sits in the bottom rail, how would you build it so that water can escape from the groove? I was thinking simply drilling some holes in the corners at an angle as a fix...would like to maybe include a better detail when I build the ones for the house. Thanks!!
instead of a groove in the rail, mill a tung . then on the panel a groove . especially easy if the door has a bolection moulding . A slight bevel on the rail to shed. Water also is beneficial.
@@jackEnglishmachines Such a simple solution, glad I asked and I appreciate you taking the time. Thanks!
I was taught 6" & 9" (or 13" to the top of the bottom hinge when using a 4" butt) and if you check out old houses in the UK that's what they measure, I was also told it was a visual thing, in that when you look at the door even though the bottom hinge as a larger margin it's not noticeable because you are viewing from eye level which is higher of the ground and compensates for the difference. Also I live the detail where you have beefed up the front of the sill do you then add a drip to the underside at the front to help prevent capillary water ingress?
good to know that the tradition began in England. And yes, a drip
kerf was mailed on the underside edge
Hey guys great job! Beautiful door. Why did you leave the core door loose with no glue?
so that it induced internal movement by allowing it to shrink and expand by sliding in and out of the mortises , and they would not change the stability of the outer plywood
@@jackEnglishmachines Thanks, did it work? Its really interesting to see how many different ways this has been approached.
@@jonwillms9219 Works great but I wouldn't say it was my idea I've seen this technique and book stating back into the 50s
Хорошая работа, но есть вопрос! Как будет вести дубовая палуба при усыхании, фанера в отличии от палубы намного стабильнее и менять размеры практически не будет.
The veneer is only 1/8 of an inch thick the same thickness as one of the plies in the plywood. It's also quarter sawn which is also dimensionally stable. shrinkage is only in its thickness not its width.
Мне кажется всё чуть наоборот, но спорить не будем! Время покажет
Hey guys
Do you think you could use this method on a 1 3/4" thick door?
yes no problem