Great video, one way I swapped my rim without a stand, was to line up the valve holes and tywrap the new rim to the old rim and transfer the spokes to the new rim one by one! Haven't had the confidence to tension it yet so I've left that to the bike shop ☺️
Excellent video Dave, very well explained. I have a damaged front rim and will have a go using this method. Out of interest is it easier to work with alloy rims rather than carbon for a novice.
Hi Dave, Good video, I took your advice and got myself some Hope Fortus 35s for my Trek Rail 5. I had to fit new cassette new chain and new front sprocket because I wanted a Shimano cassette to match my Derailleur, The chain was a Sram GX 12 speed, when I rode the bike the chain would slip in the high gear (10 tooth). I checked the chain length, B screw, made sure the line was in the right place on the derailleur with the cassette, but it still slipped, so I put the old chain on which was 50% worn and it did not slip, that too was a Sram GX 12 speed. I bought a KMC 12 speed E bike chain from the LBS and that was ok, have you ever had issues with new chains? You where right BTW those wheels make a massive difference, gone tubeless too, thanks for your advice. Royston
Hi Royston, You will find that an sram eagle chain is not compatible with shimano, in fact we have issues sometimes with nearly all sram chains running on shimano cassettes, from experience sram chains are better on sram cassettes, they will work on shimano but can be problematic even though some claim good compatibility.glad your new wheels have made a difference. Thanks for watching.
Ive got a trek rail 9.7 it's smallest cog slips also after 300km. Checked b-screw and cable tension, still slipping, casette and chain looks still good though. Strange what could be the reason? I am also not really impressed by the bearings and overall quality. Headset started creaking, (there was only little to no grease applied and already some wear and scratchmarks inside the frame/bearing seat) . Same with the rear end, bearings are creaking like hell. I think i have to strip down the whole bike and build it up with some proper stainless steel or zinc plated bearings and enough grease. The paint also chips super easy, i sent an email to trek to get the color code for a touch up paint, got no answer. I have found the gray one in some forums, but the orange is unknown.
Hello there and thank you for this very useful tutorial. So, my problem. I tried to true my rear wheel on my bike while it is on stand. Tyre is on all the time. I got it true at about 1mm or less and one particular spoke is pretty loose. Why is that so?
Hi, if all the rest of the spokes are to a good tension except for one or 2 and the wheel is true it could be that your rim is damaged at that point where the loose spokes are or that spoke is the wrong length
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic hmmm, well the wheel, spokes and nipples are the factory ones I got with my bike. Only thing was replaced on wheel is hub. Factory hub was Shimano TX505 and it was replaced with Shimano M6000. The hubs have same hole diameter. All the job was done by professional bike mechanic with years of experiance. It was done a year before and after that I made few hundred of kilometers with the bike. Only thing I noticed was 4-5 nipples which were a bit rounded, they can be tightened or loosen but I would like to replace them. I suppose I have to do it one by one. Now my question is what length if nipple I need to order. From what I can see without taking off the tyre (it’s tubelless). The nipple length which I can measure (outside of the rim) is 7mm. Spokes are 2mm thick and the nipples are silver
Tnx.alot ! What’s your opinion on nipples with thread lock ? Would “squorx” nipples make it easier , (by being able to turn the nipple from the top/inside) ?
Hi, Thanks for watching, It's not often we use squorx nipples, we use brass nipples unless they are specified on a build, Because we build many wheels we have specific tooling to make sure that each nipple is positioned on the spoke in exactly the same place on every spoke before truing up, this make truing much easier and accurate. we also use a medium strength threadlock on each nipple on every wheel we build from scratch. We build about 2,800 wheels a year all by hand.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic What I was refering to ,was the nipples with thread lock already in them (as I understand they can be a bit of a pain to use). Also ,do you use thread lock before or after tightening the spoke ? Tia.
@@alfabethev2.074 Hi, Ah, I see. No we don't use them, reason being they are far too expensive, we can achieve the same result by using loctite 243. The threadlock is applied to the spoke threads only after the nipples have been put on by 2 turns, spinning the wheel then allows the threadlock to run down into the nipples by centrifugal force covering the remaining spoke thread.
Great video, one way I swapped my rim without a stand, was to line up the valve holes and tywrap the new rim to the old rim and transfer the spokes to the new rim one by one! Haven't had the confidence to tension it yet so I've left that to the bike shop ☺️
Thats great Martin, good for having a go
ask them if you can watch them do it
Thanks for watching, great that you did it your self
Excellent video Dave, very well explained. I have a damaged front rim and will have a go using this method. Out of interest is it easier to work with alloy rims rather than carbon for a novice.
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments, yes it is, very much so, the process for carbon rims is different, I would defo recommend aluminium first
2 zip ties around both wheels would make it easier dave, interesting video thou dave I always wondered how it was done professionaly, nice one.
Great Comment, certainly would.
electrical tape in two spots.
Hi Dave, Good video, I took your advice and got myself some Hope Fortus 35s for my Trek Rail 5. I had to fit new cassette new chain and new front sprocket because I wanted a Shimano cassette to match my Derailleur, The chain was a Sram GX 12 speed, when I rode the bike the chain would slip in the high gear (10 tooth). I checked the chain length, B screw, made sure the line was in the right place on the derailleur with the cassette, but it still slipped, so I put the old chain on which was 50% worn and it did not slip, that too was a Sram GX 12 speed. I bought a KMC 12 speed E bike chain from the LBS and that was ok, have you ever had issues with new chains? You where right BTW those wheels make a massive difference, gone tubeless too, thanks for your advice. Royston
Hi Royston, You will find that an sram eagle chain is not compatible with shimano, in fact we have issues sometimes with nearly all sram chains running on shimano cassettes, from experience sram chains are better on sram cassettes, they will work on shimano but can be problematic even though some claim good compatibility.glad your new wheels have made a difference. Thanks for watching.
Ive got a trek rail 9.7 it's smallest cog slips also after 300km. Checked b-screw and cable tension, still slipping, casette and chain looks still good though. Strange what could be the reason?
I am also not really impressed by the bearings and overall quality. Headset started creaking, (there was only little to no grease applied and already some wear and scratchmarks inside the frame/bearing seat) . Same with the rear end, bearings are creaking like hell. I think i have to strip down the whole bike and build it up with some proper stainless steel or zinc plated bearings and enough grease.
The paint also chips super easy, i sent an email to trek to get the color code for a touch up paint, got no answer. I have found the gray one in some forums, but the orange is unknown.
@@michael_the_chef Hi, I got a new chain a KMC e-bike black and the issue went away.
Hi Dave great video thanks a million
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments, you are welcome
Hello there and thank you for this very useful tutorial.
So, my problem.
I tried to true my rear wheel on my bike while it is on stand.
Tyre is on all the time.
I got it true at about 1mm or less and one particular spoke is pretty loose. Why is that so?
Hi, if all the rest of the spokes are to a good tension except for one or 2 and the wheel is true it could be that your rim is damaged at that point where the loose spokes are or that spoke is the wrong length
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic hmmm, well the wheel, spokes and nipples are the factory ones I got with my bike. Only thing was replaced on wheel is hub. Factory hub was Shimano TX505 and it was replaced with Shimano M6000.
The hubs have same hole diameter.
All the job was done by professional bike mechanic with years of experiance. It was done a year before and after that I made few hundred of kilometers with the bike. Only thing I noticed was 4-5 nipples which were a bit rounded, they can be tightened or loosen but I would like to replace them. I suppose I have to do it one by one. Now my question is what length if nipple I need to order. From what I can see without taking off the tyre (it’s tubelless). The nipple length which I can measure (outside of the rim) is 7mm. Spokes are 2mm thick and the nipples are silver
Hi Dave, what spoke key are you using? Never seen one like it. It would probably suit my fat fingers!
Hi, It's a modified park tool SW-20
Tnx.alot !
What’s your opinion on nipples with thread lock ?
Would “squorx” nipples make it easier , (by being able to turn the nipple from the top/inside) ?
Hi, Thanks for watching, It's not often we use squorx nipples, we use brass nipples unless they are specified on a build, Because we build many wheels we have specific tooling to make sure that each nipple is positioned on the spoke in exactly the same place on every spoke before truing up, this make truing much easier and accurate. we also use a medium strength threadlock on each nipple on every wheel we build from scratch. We build about 2,800 wheels a year all by hand.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic What I was refering to ,was the nipples with thread lock already in them (as I understand they can be a bit of a pain to use).
Also ,do you use thread lock before or after tightening the spoke ?
Tia.
@@alfabethev2.074 Hi, Ah, I see. No we don't use them, reason being they are far too expensive, we can achieve the same result by using loctite 243. The threadlock is applied to the spoke threads only after the nipples have been put on by 2 turns, spinning the wheel then allows the threadlock to run down into the nipples by centrifugal force covering the remaining spoke thread.
Nice video! You made it look easy :-)
The rim swap is easy but the true is much more tricky, thanks for watching