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Battery test ! Testing car batteries with carbon pile load tester!!! Smart charger results!
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2021
- After years of denial, Matt finally splurged and bough a carbon pile battery tester. He was no disappointed!!! Now he can test to his hearts content!
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Hi Matt . . .thanks for posting. I have one of these carbon pile testers - there are various brands etc but they are all the same generic chinese units. The reason I watched your video was because I was confused by the options for testing of 3 x Ah rating or 1/2CCA. I think the instructions have become confused in translating to Chinglish. My battery is 11.8Ah and 230CCA which according to the instructions would mean testing at 115amps for 15 seconds or 35.4amps for the same time - clearly nonsense as a battery could easily pass at 35.4amps but fail miserably at 115amps. I have now watched several videos and it would seem the correct convention for load testing is to test for 15 seconds at 1/2CCA and so simply ignore the option for 3 x Ah - it is nonsense. Finally, forgive me for pointing out some of your errors which hopefully will help you in future
1. You tested all of your batteries at half the load that you should have - down to the chinglish instructions mate. The bottom scale is the CCA of the battery and you simply wind on the resistance knob until you are lined up with the CCA of your battery on this scale . . . if you now look at the top scale which shows the amps being drawn, you are drawing exacly half the battery CCA. You were halving the CCA of your batteries and cranking up the current until you were on half CCA on the bottom scale and thus drawing half what you should to test correctly
2. On your first battery test, you buzzer went off because you failed to fully wind off the load knob - it was still drawing a small current - keep turning the knob anti-clockwise until the amps being drawn is definitely zero and then perhaps a bit more for good measure
3. Never test the battery unless you are in the test zone or you will damage the battery - charge it first.
4. Throw away all your batteries - every single one I watched you test is toast!!!!!!! 😃
Wow! First off, thanks for taking the time to write such a long and in depth comment!!! I totally get what you mean with the confusion on how to properly use it as per the limited instructions available. I never used one before and just winged it for the video. I get what you are saying about how I halved the already corrected CCA scale. My bad… Thanks for the enlightenment! As for the 3x AH question, I did get another private comment from someone who said its for small sealed non-automotive batteries. I thought of the small battery in my booster pack that is 20AH. I suppose I would test it at 60AH on the middle scale. These batteries dont have CCA’s indicated so I thought it made sense. Your battery has AH and CCA, so I agree with you that it should be tested at 115A and disregard the AH scenario. Anyways, thanks for the insight and thanks for watching!!!
@@mattsws one small correction - re your 20Ah battery - you would line up the needle on 20Ah on the middle scale and having done so, you would be drawing 60 amps, as shown by the needle against the top scale. Same argument as for CCA technique 👍
Man the instructions on the unit are misleading!!!! Thanks for the great tips! Take care!
@@mattsws Can you put the instructions here to look at it please.
You let any battery sit for a "few weeks" and it WILL die.
Thats what trickle chargers are for! Lol!
So, that little wire that appears to be joining both sides of the clamp is NOT what you think it is. It is a voltage sense wire that goes straight back to the voltmeter. Gives you an accurate reading AT THE BATTERY, because it eliminates voltage drop over the cable.
That makes total sense!!!!! Thanks for the info, it’s really appreciated!!!
@@mattsws no problem! I took mine apart when I first got it because it came with bolt from the carbon pile loose in the cage and had to fix that. Then got to wondering where the extra wires were coming from that go to the voltmeter. Took me a bit to figure it out lol
your second set of test where done right the first test where done wrong here is why
Carbon pile testing should ideally be performed on a fully charged battery or a battery that has been put though a Charging cycle to get it to its maximum capable Charge to obtain accurate and reliable results. Here's why:
Consistent Results: Testing a fully charged battery ensures that it is in a consistent state, allowing for more accurate and reliable measurements. When a battery is fully charged, its chemical reactions are optimized, and it is in its highest energy state, which better reflects its true performance capabilities.
Maximized Capacity Assessment: Carbon pile testing assesses the cranking capacity and overall health of the battery by subjecting it to a simulated load similar to what it would experience during engine starting. A fully charged battery can deliver its maximum capacity, allowing for a more thorough evaluation of its performance under load.
Prevents Misinterpretation: Testing a discharged or partially charged battery can lead to inaccurate results and misinterpretation of the battery's condition. A discharged battery may not be able to deliver its full capacity, leading to underestimation of its cranking ability and overall health.
Safety Considerations: Fully charging the battery before testing also reduces the risk of damaging the battery during the testing process. Testing a partially charged battery under heavy load conditions can further deplete its charge and potentially lead to irreversible damage.
Wow! Thank you so much for such an in depth explanation! I realized after the video was published that I made some mistakes…. I really appreciate you taking the time to write such an insightful comment! If I make any more videos on the subject, I surely show more technical expertise! Take care and thanks for watching!!!
Gonna pass my load test practicals , kuddos 🙌
Thanks for watching!!!
I bought the same one today and paid $65 Canadian on sale. 😁👍
Good deal!
You are reading the scale wrong. If you are going to use the CCA scale at the bottom, do NOT divide the CCA rating by two. Use the actual CCA rating. If you are using the top scale, which is for measuring AMPS, that's when you divide your rating by two. You should notice that doing it this way, the AMP scale will be exactly HALF of the CCA scale.
You are absolutely right. I noticed this after posting the video. Thanks for the comment!
That battery analyzer is not working correctly, it should be going off with the alarm in 10 to 15 seconds not 4 seconds something's not right with that unit.
Yeah I thought the same thing. In the manual is mentions the 10secs but it beeps way before… oh well!
It seems these units start the 15 second timer as soon as you start applying a load, not after you reach your target load. Makes sense because it doesn't know your target load and therefore cannot start the timer there.
These units start the 15 second timer as soon as you start applying a load, not after you reach your target load. So no its working right
You can do load test in the vehicle with a voltmeter that has min/max and hold. Connect the voltmeter across the battery, press min/max, crank the vehicle, press hold, then press min/max to see what the min cranking voltage is. I just ordered a KONNWEI KW208 for $22 that will check alternator ripple, charging and cranking as well as the standard battery test. Over 90% of the time I just don't see an advantage to using an old-school "load" tester.
You are totally right about modern tech vs old school load testers. I like old tech, so thats why I bought this vs a modern tester. I use my multimeter like you explained all the time and its my most common way of quick testing battery. They rarely pass the min/max test, only to fail the load test… Usually the multimeter shows the battery is toast. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!!
3 * 1/6 = 1/2. So if using AHours, it still ultimately measures 1/2 the CCA.
Makes sense now! Thanks for the info!!!
How much battery tester sir
About 100$
I am in Vietnam, I want to buy this device, how can I buy it?
Its called a 500 amp battery load tester.
You have not covered the voltage of the battery example. 6 -8- ot 12 volt?????
This tester is for 12vdc only. All batteries tested were 12v. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!
I bought one at princess auto but took it back, I found the cheaper load testers the buzzer goes off long before 15 seconds so that's not an accurate test.
@@404notfound..... Yeah, I have to admit that mine goes off before the 15 seconds also... I find that a dead battery will drop off real fast regardless with the load tester, so I use it to determine if its really good or really dead... In between, I have doubts on the accuracy!
@@404notfound..... I got mine so hot one time that it burnt the buzzer up! Thank goodness... lol... I was going to disable that annoying thing anyway
@@404notfound..... You don't have to test them for 15 seconds. 5 or so is enough.
A lot of the instructions garbled due to chinglish translation.
I've got the same unit from a UK vender and the instructions state test for a MAXIMUM of 15 seconds or you risk damaging the unit.
The 15 seconds is a maximum test time to protect the carbon pile from burning out.
The buzzer is not so much "hey, your tests done". It's more "Stop testing or your going to burn me up"