Dr. Dave, I am surprised you did not comment on another common error. I see many people, including myself, jump out of the wayin anticipation of the ball drawing back and hitting your tip. This might be the source of many errors you outlined. My instructor says you have to "tease" the cueball back like you do. You just move your bridge back slowly as the ball comes back. I find it difficult to do because I have to train it. I tend to jump out of the way.
@3:00 mark. You did that all wrong! I have personally perfected the art of jumping the cue ball over said object ball and depositing it directly into the pocket! With the corresponding cheers from both teams and the requisite 2 arms in the air by at least one member of each team signifying a perfectly made field goal! Work on that....😂
Few points: - I think it was Hunter Lambardo in a video was talking about elevating the cue to get more tip contact, which I don't agree with cause you're hitting less CB mass and there's a higher chance of miscue. - Some people say rounding your tip more gives you more tip contact area and therefore more draw. I don't like that even if it's true because it works in your disadvantage in follow shots and has higher chances of miscue. - How do you feel about dropping the elbow after contact especially in a follow through when you have to draw over a long distance and therefore need more speed. - I like your magic 2 ball that blocks the side pocket so you can't break the balls with follow then disappears after that 😊😊😊 Thanks Dr Dave, always fun watching your videos (keep schwinging)
@@waelaltalaa Good job noticing the “magic 2-ball.” I didn”t notice the follow possibility until editing, I intended to mention this, but I forgot to. All the other topics are covered in great detail here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/elevation/ billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/cue-elevation/ billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/ billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/elbow-drop/ Check it out.
- I think Hunter is wrong. Elevating to me is suboptimal bc what you think is maximum low may actually not be. - There’s a certain level of roundness that is perfect for maximizing contact point, I think Dr Dave already made a video on this - Unnecessary. Speed doesn’t comes from more follow through, it comes from your backhand acceleration, timing and tip placement
Thanks for posting another great video, doc! I'll be sure to share this with my miscue and rail banger "friends". I really appreciate how you sprinkle humor into your videos too!
I saw video showing how to accurately determine draw length. I use this and can easily decide stop, half diamond, 1 diamond, 1.5 diamond, 2 diamond draw. Keep your stroke and bridge length consistent and change how low you go on the cue. Each full tip on the cue ball equals one diamond. If the cueball is one diamond from the object ball, go a half tip below center. That is your stop shot and your reference for stroke speed. From this reference point, go down a full tip lower on the cueball. You will draw back one diamond. A tip and a half below the stop shot point will draw back 1.5 diamonds, and so on. What if the object ball is 2 diamonds away from the cueball? Then you need to add a tip for both stop and draw distances. So one diamond between cueball and object ball and half tip below centre is the null point. Bigger distance between cb and ob or need to draw farther all relates to the null point. The great thing is this also works for follow. A full tip above the stop shot null point will follow one diamond. This is surprisingly accurate. Once you have a consistent speed and stroke, you can measure draw and follow accurately, especially useful if you need to get position to squeek through two balls. This is good for about up to a half table distance. Beyond that more speed is needed. The key here is to establish the null point and speed for a stop shot as each table felt is worn differently and has more or less friction. When i get to a table, i do a few one diamond stop shots and one diamond draws to know how the table plays and if i need to adjust. Just like doing a few reference banks to see how the rails are responding. Hope this helps people. It made me control the draw and also my stroke on draws as i focused on hitting the ball consistent. Watch Dr. Dave's videos on tangent lines. Also super useful and made a big difference in understanding where the cb will go.
Thank you for sharing. I still think the methods presented in the following video are more accurate and consistent for most people: ruclips.net/video/r9thdkaIyzs/видео.html Enjoy!
After reading many comments on the comparisons between pool and snooker ,pocket and ball sizes,size of table etc ,I think most people are missing the point ,the main reason snooker players sometimes look at pool and don't have the same respect for the game as they do for snooker is that hitting a ball into a corner pocket at pool is much easier than at snooker, at pool a shot into the corner could touch the rail a foot from the pocket and still go in, pool players don't realise that in snooker the ball will not go in if it touches the rail on the way to the pocket and thats one of the reasons snooker is more difficult, i played snooker for 50 years and now play pool on an 8foot table 4 hours a day, i prefer to play pool because of the quick cycle of games and find it easier to play for hours
@@JoeWhite-p8x I think most good pool players know the difference and appreciate how much more difficult it is to pot balls in snooker (especially balls close to a rail) due to the rounded pocket openings.
... not easily, but yes (with enough attempts). See shot 3 here: ruclips.net/video/a-mAxW0k5Qk/видео.html See also: ruclips.net/video/qbi16gxjER0/видео.html
I use an open bridge when shooting a draw, and I can draw very well too. With proper technique, an open bridge has the many advantages listed here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bridge/open/
@@sw1tchmast3r73 Yes. I like the length (which is why I got it), but I don’t like that it added a slight bend to my cue (although, this doesn’t really bother me much).
Why does almost every pool instructor insist on using a closed bridge for a draw shot? If Judd Trump and Jimmy White can draw the ball at breakneck speed on a snooker table with tight pockets using an open bridge I don't see why you cant do the same on bar box?
Pool cues are much thicker and you're hitting a heavier ball, so it's easier to control the stroke with a closed bridge. A snooker cue is way too skinny to have a useful closed bridge, it wouldn't fit right in anyone's hands. By the way, the size of snooker balls relative to its pockets is the exact same size as pool balls to their tight pocket tables. It's a myth that making shots is tougher in snooker due to the size of their pockets... it's tougher due to the shape of their pockets (and because most shots are longer in distance).
You can draw just as much with an open bridge, but it requires a lot more mastery of the stroke. Which would actually be a good thing for players to do. But when playing power break shots, most people use a closed bridge. There are a few pros breaking with an open bridge, I can't remember who it was. The commentators kept talking about it and wondering why he wasn't using a closed bridge.
Have you ever looked into the effects of cushion profiles, as in your V-shaped and L-shaped profiles like a K66 or an L77 respectively? That might be interesting to do a video on, though it would obviously not strictly involve American pool. I've recently been switching between games a lot instead of playing one game for months or years at a time and I'd never realised quite how stark the difference in behaviour is.
@@osirisgolad I have not, but I agree that it would be interesting to compare cushions of different profiles and brands on different tables. Unfortunately. It is easier said than done.
regarding elevating the queue on draw shots: Cloudn´t this help with long distance draw shots (distance between cue ball and object ball)? My theory is that elevating the queue causes the cue ball to bounce slightly and reduce friction with the cloth, resulting in more draw action at the target. The downside will be less accuracy because unintentional sidespinn will cause swirve, but it might still be worth trying. You can actually see in the example clips at the start of the video of SvB and De Luna how they are elevating their queue. They are doing it because the cue ball is too close to the rail, but i wonder if that also helped them achieve the massive draw action as well.
@@IceCreamMan444 This is a common misconception. For the full story, see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/cue-elevation/ SVB and De Luna have no choice with those shots because the CB is close to the rail.
I wonder what brand of cushions Diamond uses. I hear tell that Artemis brand cushions are the best obtainable. My table has a thick felt-type non worsted cloth on it. I purchased the cloth circa 1994, at this time they called Simonis "speed cloth" and did not recommend it for home tables. The cushions are whatever brand Kasson was building their tables with at the time. Now after 30 years of aging the rubber in the cushions is almost wood-hard. It's almost ridiculous. You can still make 1 cushion banks but that's about all. There is one spot on a short rail near the pocket for about 6" that still hasn't lost all its bounce due to aging, but for the rest of the table it plays SLOW. I just practice on it for now anyway, since I have yet to develop a decent stroke and I'm not good enough to blame the equipment, lol. I have the top grade Aramith balls, traditional colors with a pure white CB from back then, (I don't think they make that plain white CB anymore). The have a nice patina on them, but they are good quality balls that will play. The table plays if you get used to the speed. It is level and square, sitting on stable concrete. I've noticed a few other things. There is a dent in the cloth at the foot spot from break impact that is like putting a ball on a golf tee. If I didn't have an adhesive spot placed there I'd have a hole worn in the cloth by now. And every other ball position in the rack has a smaller dimple that will still hold a ball. To get a tight rack all you have to do is get the balls in the dimples and it's like a template rack. If the balls are not in the dimples forget it, you will never get the rack tight no matter how much you fidget with it. To find the dimples simply move the triangle forward and watch which way the balls move. There is also a continuous groove in the cloth along the rails from ball/cushion impact. If a ball rolls up to a cushion slow it will drop into the groove and freeze to the cushion automatically. The continuous groove is visibly deeper at the 2 places where the wing balls make impact on the break.
I tried to do this last time I played pool, target ball was in corner pocket cue ball at opposite end of table, I Don't feel like i lifted the tip but the ball did go flying, it didn't jump high it just went up just high enough to go over the target ball and off the table, the hit sounded like a good hit unlike your example, are there any other issues that could cause the ball to jump?
@@CAIDMASTEROFPYRO I suspect you tightened your grip, causing the tip to drop. If you hit the CB and table at the same time, it can sometimes sound and feel like a good hit.
What's the tip height for cue action draw.i don't think it's at the miscued limit as shown in the diagrams on the right corner.could you please tell the tip height to be used for good action draw?
The exact tip roundness is really not that important (assuming the tip isn't too flat). For lots of info on this topic, see: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/
Besides inferring we all have friends, Dr Dave failed to mention the main reason intermediate players fail to pot as consistently when using draw. It's not just because speed narrows the effective pocket width, it's more about the fact that most dribblers align to shots thick and swipe to the outside to swerve the CB and throw the OB wider than their aim. Draw largely diminishes both of these tendencies, sending the OB thicker than intended.
Can someone please refer me to a video/videos that will explain pool as if I were a 5 year old? It's been several years now and while I've made improvements, I have no idea where the cue ball is going after I hit the object ball. If there's a cluster, I can't see how to break it up without shooting directly at it. I hardly ever see the potential scratch unless its a rail shot with the object ball sitting close to the side pocket. I'm constantly getting scolded by grumpy old men who invite me to play doubles with them, but get upset that I don't really know what I'm doing. So I've settled for just making shots. I've become a pretty good shot maker and that alone has won me games against the same ppl who constantly "correct" me and give negative feedback. However I've lost plenty games I should have won if I just used ball in hand correctly and knew how/ where to hit the ball to set for the next shot. If someone plays defense on me, I never know where to shoot on the rail so that I can at least hit my ball so as to not give my opponents ball-in-hand. Lastly, as if learning angles and strategy isn't enough, I still have some flaws in my stroke I'm trying to figure out. It passes the eye test to many, bc I make some impressive shots. The truth is, I always aim dead center and any english put on the ball is an accident. When I actually try to aim somewhere other than center, I typically miss the shot. So currently my game is to out shoot my opponents which I think is a fun way to play but is not very efficient for winning consistently.
I recommend the videos and links (especially the first few) here: billiards.colostate.edu/tutorial/ Concerning cue ball control, I recommend this video: ruclips.net/video/fPQEBxbByD4/видео.html
@@shawnogg8208 For a really long list of all the other things that can go wrong, see the video and links here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/video-analysis/ especially: billiards.colostate.edu/resource_files/fundamentals_check_list.pdf
I thought this video was going to include how to shoot draw shots and power draw shots with more distance between the CB and OB (like half a 9 foot table length) but was disappointed.
OK for all, but not about the elbow. O'Sullivan, for ex. drops dramatically his elbow on all shots. Trump is quasi an exception, when keeping his elbow still.
@@DevTeamPaxton , yes, but he says that it is preferable to get the elbow still on he entire shot, reason why I said that the best player on earth doesn't apply this advice.
*Contents:*
0:00 - Intro
0:22 - Technique
2:09 - Common Errors
5:06 - Distance Control
7:08 - Angle Control
10:46 - Useful Drills
12:52 - Wrap Up
*Supporting Resources:*
- draw shot advice and drills resource page: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/advice-and-drills/
- “Everything You Need to Know About Cue Ball Control” video: ruclips.net/video/fPQEBxbByD4/видео.html
- “Top 10 Secrets of Good Draw” video: ruclips.net/video/5WPOf3ECEe4/видео.html
- “Draw Shot Control Secrets” video: ruclips.net/video/r9thdkaIyzs/видео.html
- cue elevation effects: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/elevation/
- draw shot cue elevation effects: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/cue-elevation/
- bridge length effects: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bridge/length/
- elbow drop resource page: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/elbow-drop/
- Corner-5 3-rail kicking system: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/corner-5/
- personal challenge draw drill: billiards.colostate.edu/resource_files/draw_challenge_drill.pdf
*Subscribe to Dr. Dave's RUclips Channel:*
ruclips.net/user/DrDaveBilliards
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Dr. Dave, I am surprised you did not comment on another common error. I see many people, including myself, jump out of the wayin anticipation of the ball drawing back and hitting your tip. This might be the source of many errors you outlined. My instructor says you have to "tease" the cueball back like you do. You just move your bridge back slowly as the ball comes back. I find it difficult to do because I have to train it. I tend to jump out of the way.
@@IndianHeathen1982 Good point. I cover this in detail in the “Top 10 Draw Shot Secrets” video:
ruclips.net/video/5WPOf3ECEe4/видео.html
@3:00 mark. You did that all wrong! I have personally perfected the art of jumping the cue ball over said object ball and depositing it directly into the pocket! With the corresponding cheers from both teams and the requisite 2 arms in the air by at least one member of each team signifying a perfectly made field goal! Work on that....😂
@@MikeM275 Next time, you should say: "Nothin' but net." 🤓
Yes, a new and fresh lecture from Dr. Dave on draw shots. Instant watch. Thanks, Dave.
@@chrisvand2678 I’m glad you liked the “lecture.”
@@chrisvand2678
No better videos on pool than Dr. Dave
Thank you for what you do, Dr. Dave. You're awesome
You're welcome, and thank you. I aim to swerve. :)
Dr.DAVE...
YOUR THE BEST
TY FOR U FOR ALL YOUR EXPERTISE 💪
@@kevinjackson4729 Thank you, and you’re welcome.
Few points:
- I think it was Hunter Lambardo in a video was talking about elevating the cue to get more tip contact, which I don't agree with cause you're hitting less CB mass and there's a higher chance of miscue.
- Some people say rounding your tip more gives you more tip contact area and therefore more draw. I don't like that even if it's true because it works in your disadvantage in follow shots and has higher chances of miscue.
- How do you feel about dropping the elbow after contact especially in a follow through when you have to draw over a long distance and therefore need more speed.
- I like your magic 2 ball that blocks the side pocket so you can't break the balls with follow then disappears after that 😊😊😊
Thanks Dr Dave, always fun watching your videos (keep schwinging)
@@waelaltalaa Good job noticing the “magic 2-ball.” I didn”t notice the follow possibility until editing, I intended to mention this, but I forgot to. All the other topics are covered in great detail here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue/elevation/
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/cue-elevation/
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/elbow-drop/
Check it out.
- I think Hunter is wrong. Elevating to me is suboptimal bc what you think is maximum low may actually not be.
- There’s a certain level of roundness that is perfect for maximizing contact point, I think Dr Dave already made a video on this
- Unnecessary. Speed doesn’t comes from more follow through, it comes from your backhand acceleration, timing and tip placement
@@truonglongnguyen2148 Agreed, per the info and videos at the links above.
Some good stuff for my students next monday ! Thanks dr.dave
Thanks for posting another great video, doc! I'll be sure to share this with my miscue and rail banger "friends". I really appreciate how you sprinkle humor into your videos too!
I'm glad you liked my "sprinkling." Thank you for watching the whole video. Not everybody does.
Rail banger here! I knew that happened to me but I didn't understand why until this video. Good Shit 👍
Rail Bangers unite. 🤓
@DrDaveBilliards 🤣
I saw video showing how to accurately determine draw length. I use this and can easily decide stop, half diamond, 1 diamond, 1.5 diamond, 2 diamond draw. Keep your stroke and bridge length consistent and change how low you go on the cue. Each full tip on the cue ball equals one diamond. If the cueball is one diamond from the object ball, go a half tip below center. That is your stop shot and your reference for stroke speed. From this reference point, go down a full tip lower on the cueball. You will draw back one diamond. A tip and a half below the stop shot point will draw back 1.5 diamonds, and so on. What if the object ball is 2 diamonds away from the cueball? Then you need to add a tip for both stop and draw distances. So one diamond between cueball and object ball and half tip below centre is the null point. Bigger distance between cb and ob or need to draw farther all relates to the null point. The great thing is this also works for follow. A full tip above the stop shot null point will follow one diamond. This is surprisingly accurate. Once you have a consistent speed and stroke, you can measure draw and follow accurately, especially useful if you need to get position to squeek through two balls. This is good for about up to a half table distance. Beyond that more speed is needed. The key here is to establish the null point and speed for a stop shot as each table felt is worn differently and has more or less friction. When i get to a table, i do a few one diamond stop shots and one diamond draws to know how the table plays and if i need to adjust. Just like doing a few reference banks to see how the rails are responding. Hope this helps people. It made me control the draw and also my stroke on draws as i focused on hitting the ball consistent. Watch Dr. Dave's videos on tangent lines. Also super useful and made a big difference in understanding where the cb will go.
Thank you for sharing. I still think the methods presented in the following video are more accurate and consistent for most people:
ruclips.net/video/r9thdkaIyzs/видео.html
Enjoy!
Truedat Dave...
After reading many comments on the comparisons between pool and snooker ,pocket and ball sizes,size of table etc ,I think most people are missing the point ,the main reason snooker players sometimes look at pool and don't have the same respect for the game as they do for snooker is that hitting a ball into a corner pocket at pool is much easier than at snooker, at pool a shot into the corner could touch the rail a foot from the pocket and still go in, pool players don't realise that in snooker the ball will not go in if it touches the rail on the way to the pocket and thats one of the reasons snooker is more difficult, i played snooker for 50 years and now play pool on an 8foot table 4 hours a day, i prefer to play pool because of the quick cycle of games and find it easier to play for hours
@@JoeWhite-p8x I think most good pool players know the difference and appreciate how much more difficult it is to pot balls in snooker (especially balls close to a rail) due to the rounded pocket openings.
Definitely a rail banger when uncomfortable with a shot. I will be looking for it next time I record myself.
Rail Bangers Anonymous unite.
draw shots have been a tricky beast for me for a long time :P
@@andrewhawkinson3410 I hope the video and supporting resources help:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/advice-and-drills/
Can you demonstrate how Corey Deuel can do a full-length draw shot with the cue ball on the rail? 😊
... not easily, but yes (with enough attempts). See shot 3 here:
ruclips.net/video/a-mAxW0k5Qk/видео.html
See also:
ruclips.net/video/qbi16gxjER0/видео.html
I use a closed bridge when shooting a draw, and I can draw very well.
I use an open bridge when shooting a draw, and I can draw very well too. With proper technique, an open bridge has the many advantages listed here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bridge/open/
Is that a balance rite extension in the middle of your cue? If so, what are your opinions of it ? If not, still love your content! ❤️
@@sw1tchmast3r73 Yes. I like the length (which is why I got it), but I don’t like that it added a slight bend to my cue (although, this doesn’t really bother me much).
Thank you very much.
@@kooroshkabir5975 Yw
0:02 there ain't no better than the power draw shot. And how De Luna managed to do it jacked up on the rail is just crazy
Thanks Dr Dave
@@greeneyeddevil1 You’re welcome. I aim to swerve. 🤓
Why does almost every pool instructor insist on using a closed bridge for a draw shot? If Judd Trump and Jimmy White can draw the ball at breakneck speed on a snooker table with tight pockets using an open bridge I don't see why you cant do the same on bar box?
Pool cues are much thicker and you're hitting a heavier ball, so it's easier to control the stroke with a closed bridge. A snooker cue is way too skinny to have a useful closed bridge, it wouldn't fit right in anyone's hands. By the way, the size of snooker balls relative to its pockets is the exact same size as pool balls to their tight pocket tables. It's a myth that making shots is tougher in snooker due to the size of their pockets... it's tougher due to the shape of their pockets (and because most shots are longer in distance).
I think for me the closed bridge makes it easier to insure my tip doesn't rise thru the stroke. I know...more practice!!
@@chili015 Very nicely stated. I get tired of all the snooker players saying the opposite.
You can draw just as much with an open bridge, but it requires a lot more mastery of the stroke. Which would actually be a good thing for players to do. But when playing power break shots, most people use a closed bridge. There are a few pros breaking with an open bridge, I can't remember who it was. The commentators kept talking about it and wondering why he wasn't using a closed bridge.
I am a big fan of the open bridge (for pool, and for draw shots) for the 11 reasons listed here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bridge/open/
Have you ever looked into the effects of cushion profiles, as in your V-shaped and L-shaped profiles like a K66 or an L77 respectively? That might be interesting to do a video on, though it would obviously not strictly involve American pool. I've recently been switching between games a lot instead of playing one game for months or years at a time and I'd never realised quite how stark the difference in behaviour is.
@@osirisgolad I have not, but I agree that it would be interesting to compare cushions of different profiles and brands on different tables. Unfortunately. It is easier said than done.
regarding elevating the queue on draw shots: Cloudn´t this help with long distance draw shots (distance between cue ball and object ball)? My theory is that elevating the queue causes the cue ball to bounce slightly and reduce friction with the cloth, resulting in more draw action at the target. The downside will be less accuracy because unintentional sidespinn will cause swirve, but it might still be worth trying. You can actually see in the example clips at the start of the video of SvB and De Luna how they are elevating their queue. They are doing it because the cue ball is too close to the rail, but i wonder if that also helped them achieve the massive draw action as well.
@@IceCreamMan444 This is a common misconception. For the full story, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/cue-elevation/
SVB and De Luna have no choice with those shots because the CB is close to the rail.
终于啊 我等了好久！谢谢师傅
@@KobaMy I’m glad you got what you were waiting for.
Typical Fr. Dave instruction simple instructions so most people can understand.
Then all you need do is PRACTICE.
Practice build skill,🏆
@@CocoboloCowboy It helps to practice smart, knowing what to be aware of.
Do you have a similar way to envision the change in cue ball angle as the 3x system for follow shots?
Yes. See the videos and info here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-ball-control/where-cb-goes/
I wonder what brand of cushions Diamond uses. I hear tell that Artemis brand cushions are the best obtainable. My table has a thick felt-type non worsted cloth on it. I purchased the cloth circa 1994, at this time they called Simonis "speed cloth" and did not recommend it for home tables. The cushions are whatever brand Kasson was building their tables with at the time. Now after 30 years of aging the rubber in the cushions is almost wood-hard. It's almost ridiculous. You can still make 1 cushion banks but that's about all. There is one spot on a short rail near the pocket for about 6" that still hasn't lost all its bounce due to aging, but for the rest of the table it plays SLOW. I just practice on it for now anyway, since I have yet to develop a decent stroke and I'm not good enough to blame the equipment, lol. I have the top grade Aramith balls, traditional colors with a pure white CB from back then, (I don't think they make that plain white CB anymore). The have a nice patina on them, but they are good quality balls that will play. The table plays if you get used to the speed. It is level and square, sitting on stable concrete.
I've noticed a few other things. There is a dent in the cloth at the foot spot from break impact that is like putting a ball on a golf tee. If I didn't have an adhesive spot placed there I'd have a hole worn in the cloth by now. And every other ball position in the rack has a smaller dimple that will still hold a ball. To get a tight rack all you have to do is get the balls in the dimples and it's like a template rack. If the balls are not in the dimples forget it, you will never get the rack tight no matter how much you fidget with it. To find the dimples simply move the triangle forward and watch which way the balls move. There is also a continuous groove in the cloth along the rails from ball/cushion impact. If a ball rolls up to a cushion slow it will drop into the groove and freeze to the cushion automatically. The continuous groove is visibly deeper at the 2 places where the wing balls make impact on the break.
@@onemoremisfit Concerning why Diamond brand tables play bouncy and short, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/Diamond/
I tried to do this last time I played pool, target ball was in corner pocket cue ball at opposite end of table, I Don't feel like i lifted the tip but the ball did go flying, it didn't jump high it just went up just high enough to go over the target ball and off the table, the hit sounded like a good hit unlike your example, are there any other issues that could cause the ball to jump?
@@CAIDMASTEROFPYRO I suspect you tightened your grip, causing the tip to drop. If you hit the CB and table at the same time, it can sometimes sound and feel like a good hit.
@@DrDaveBilliards Took your advice consciously kept a nice loose grip and worked first try. Thankyou
@@CAIDMASTEROFPYRO I’m glad to hear it. You’re welcome.
What's the tip height for cue action draw.i don't think it's at the miscued limit as shown in the diagrams on the right corner.could you please tell the tip height to be used for good action draw?
@@navjot4086604 See the illustration near the bottom of the page here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/trisect/
The cue tip he's using is quite pointed in my opinion.
can anyone advise me here if that gives a better connection for draw shots?
The exact tip roundness is really not that important (assuming the tip isn't too flat). For lots of info on this topic, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/cue-tip/size-and-shape/
I would love to see a draw shot with distance Objectball - cue ball = 7 diamonds with a full table draw back.
See the videos and info here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/power/
Dr Daveee!!!!
@@h3artbreak3r1994 DAM right! 🤓
Besides inferring we all have friends, Dr Dave failed to mention the main reason intermediate players fail to pot as consistently when using draw. It's not just because speed narrows the effective pocket width, it's more about the fact that most dribblers align to shots thick and swipe to the outside to swerve the CB and throw the OB wider than their aim. Draw largely diminishes both of these tendencies, sending the OB thicker than intended.
Can someone please refer me to a video/videos that will explain pool as if I were a 5 year old? It's been several years now and while I've made improvements, I have no idea where the cue ball is going after I hit the object ball. If there's a cluster, I can't see how to break it up without shooting directly at it. I hardly ever see the potential scratch unless its a rail shot with the object ball sitting close to the side pocket. I'm constantly getting scolded by grumpy old men who invite me to play doubles with them, but get upset that I don't really know what I'm doing. So I've settled for just making shots. I've become a pretty good shot maker and that alone has won me games against the same ppl who constantly "correct" me and give negative feedback. However I've lost plenty games I should have won if I just used ball in hand correctly and knew how/ where to hit the ball to set for the next shot. If someone plays defense on me, I never know where to shoot on the rail so that I can at least hit my ball so as to not give my opponents ball-in-hand. Lastly, as if learning angles and strategy isn't enough, I still have some flaws in my stroke I'm trying to figure out. It passes the eye test to many, bc I make some impressive shots. The truth is, I always aim dead center and any english put on the ball is an accident. When I actually try to aim somewhere other than center, I typically miss the shot. So currently my game is to out shoot my opponents which I think is a fun way to play but is not very efficient for winning consistently.
I recommend the videos and links (especially the first few) here:
billiards.colostate.edu/tutorial/
Concerning cue ball control, I recommend this video:
ruclips.net/video/fPQEBxbByD4/видео.html
@DrDaveBilliards very much appreciated, kind sir. Thank you!
@@smokinjoe006 You’re welcome. I aim to swerve. 🤓
What brand is that cue? Zokue?
@@painsanity-u6l Predator Revo.
3:28 - Shoutout to Wayne’s World’s, Wayne Campbell!
Schwing! :)
what is the name of the sticker for the ball marker?
See:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/training/teaching/
Had all common errors on the way plus another one: thumb of the open bridge moving.
@@shawnogg8208 For a really long list of all the other things that can go wrong, see the video and links here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/video-analysis/
especially:
billiards.colostate.edu/resource_files/fundamentals_check_list.pdf
Is that a balance rite extensiol🎉
I thought this video was going to include how to shoot draw shots and power draw shots with more distance between the CB and OB (like half a 9 foot table length) but was disappointed.
FYI, I have lots of advice and videos dealing with power draw shots here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/draw/power/
Enjoy!
Diamond 🎉
I can force draw and get more than 3x the angle.
What would be more impressive is getting less than 3x the angle! :)
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Low and slow like smoking some ribs or brisket
Exactly. Low and slow is the way to go, for brisket too!
Dangerous in aviation though, at least from what I hear since I don't fly.
@@onemoremisfit Excellent point. 😉
Contents🎉
Valenten🎉
You “had” a friend who did this.😂
I'm glad at least one person got this. :)
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OK for all, but not about the elbow. O'Sullivan, for ex. drops dramatically his elbow on all shots. Trump is quasi an exception, when keeping his elbow still.
@@heremansmarc There are advantages and disadvantages to both, per the info and demos here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/elbow-drop/
He said dropping the elbow BEFORE contacting the cue ball
There are both advantages and disadvantages to dropping the elbow. For more info, see:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/stroke/elbow-drop/
@@DevTeamPaxton , yes, but he says that it is preferable to get the elbow still on he entire shot, reason why I said that the best player on earth doesn't apply this advice.
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