Over last ten years I’ve built out two different vans this way. I recommend it totally. I never wanted the trouble of making a comprehensive video of the process, and I’m so glad this is what you have done.
Thank you for all your videos ! I made an XPS coffee table thanks to you, reinforced with fiberglass sheets and then coated with cement for a « rock » look. It looks heavy and actually weights NOTHING 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for these videos, they have given my love of cardboard forts a place to be expressed. Everything is cut, with a steak knife, and starting the glueing today. Grinning ear to ear.Thank you for the joy!
It's so good that you had shown all your R&D, experimenting, reasonings and results. So clear and easy to understand. I know from experience that the Gorilla glue will flow a little more if it's heated.
The skin stuff sounds interesting. There are tons of ways to make composite materials from different layers and it's great to see people sharing their experiences. Thanks!
The "shear" strength is where the drawer slides are putting pressure. Your screen material added to the foam surface improves the shear strength as well. GREAT information presented.
The Gorilla HD makes good sense; using flexible adhesive to be consistent with the properties of the foam, then dealing with the exoskeleton/skin as required. I've been watching boat building videos for a few years... where the process is: Skin first (sprayed fibreglass into mold), then fibre glassed plywood/balsa/composite/foam is used for internal bulkhead strength to keep that exoskeleton in place. Lately I've been looking into "foamy" designs for an ebike camper, so: I'm fascinated by this kind of architecture/industrial design. This is like an elegant reversal of the boat building process, with proper experimentation to see where strength is needed. I love it! I love that you are willing to test and see what works. I also appreciate the honesty in showing us what didn't work or what you might do differently next time. In response to your request for what I would like to see: I look forward to seeing more.
Interesting, I never thought of it that way, but yeah, boat building could reveal some tips and tricks for improving the build system. Testing, failing and sharing are about the only things I do well. I think I can accommodate your request to see more👍🏽
This is by far the greatest resource I’ve seen when researching van builds. Thank you so much for these, I feel so much better about diving into a diy build!! Now I just have to get my husband to watch!! He’s not as convinced as I am of a diy project!!
+1 ... Subscribed... "Foam Bones" is onto something... Truly innovative construction methods. .. Lightweight is where it's at.... Somebody provide Foam Bones a CNC machine.. Cheers, Vail, Colorado
Welcome to the channel… before I end up with another nickname… Foam Bones is what I am calling the building system, NØMAD is the name of the channel, thus what some viewers refer to me as in comments, but my name is just Eric. Light weight is great, but see the Vol 1 “7 reasons why foam is better than wood” for the 6 other reasons I like foam. A CNC could be useful, especially if I was building multiple, but the awesome part of using a hot knife is that I can cut pieces in place and shave them down to be the exact shape I want. For example, a vertical bulk head against the factory van wall. That shape is virtually unmeasurable, but hold the foam in place and cut it down a little at a time to a nice snug fit, easy. That kind of work is hard to do on a CNC. That all said, HELL YEAH! Somebody give me a CNC!!! Wait…. How’my gonna fit that in my van?!?!
This foam is pretty forgiving to work with. and the way you used it makes it disperse the load, and shock, and wear and tear, evenly. and have just the right amount flexibility. and showing you're trials and error in these videos. makes so others don't have to experience the same thing.
Man, Thank you for all your actual testing. I think you did about the best anyone could have done with testing and getting really good information out. Really like the use of materials. Good Job!!
Your videos are so great and so helpful. Thank you for making them and explaining things the way you do. I appreciate the description of how each type of glue behaves, and I love the fun little edits too like when you switch over to “camera 2” at 10:10 for introducing “thing number 2”. Excellent YouTubing, sir! Be well and keep on keepin’ on.
Thanks for noticing and noting that… I can’t do anything without trying to get better at it… sometimes I think I’m just entertaining myself and that nobody will ever notice… but then you mention it and I realize I’m wrong… again! Lol
You’ll be waiting awhile for those finishings… I intend to leave them exposed for the most part so I have a window into the performance of the system over the years.
Poor Puppy!😂🤣 I enjoyed watching the chill slide, then you two laughing hysterically.🤣 These vids are very interesting...I'm building out a Sienna and rethinking my build.thank you!
Very helpful. Really appreciate your knowledge, experience, and advice. Building a lightweight camper. Plain on skinning inside and outside, but like your idea of fitting first, then will probably disassemble, skin the insides except for the tabs, then glue everything together and skin the outside in a continuous process.
Haven't tried your adhesives yet but saw a video a few years ago about various adhesives for styrofoam. A lady did it as I recall. The winner actually turned out to be a paint by Glidden called Gripper. That same paint is now owned by PPG and called Seal Grip. And it does bond foam together well as I have personally used it. Less expensive as well than specialty adhesives.
Still watching. Will have to wait till tomorrow for vol.5. Great content, orderly, and concise.4vol. are enough info to sleep on. Ready for more tomorrow. Later my friend.
Can't wait to see your video about skinning. I'm about to start to build a complete box to put on a 4x4 TopKick.. It needs to be tuff because of the ruff places we travel. So skinning the foam on the thin plywood is very important to solidify the whole box... I still haven't decided on the glue I'm going to use... Keep up the good work and have fun...
The plastic anger and gorilla glue will make mounting stuff without wood blocks a lot easier. (a diy camper is never finshed) I used loctite Pl s40 polyurethane sealant for the flexible joints. I also ran a palm sander over all the 4x8 panels to improve adhesion of the skin.
Great video❤!!! I live in a steeal sailing boat and use these foam plates to isolatie my boat and it works now for 6 years. Last winter i pute the foam plates on 2 steal walls because in the winter the walls are so colt and i painted it and it looks great. And after watching your video's i see i can do a lat with the foam plates on my boot. Thank you so match!!! Greetings from the Netherlands
Eh… I’d like to see the science there… the gorilla hd construction adhesive has some perks (flexibility and ease of application) that are hard to argue with!!
I apologize if I missed this in a previous video but, was just wondering if a simple jig - used during cutting - would afford you quicker, more accurate joints. You could eliminate most marking I'd think? Obviously, there's an enormous market in the woodworking world for things of that nature. I've never built with foam board like this, but it's really interesting. I wonder if some sculptural stack laminated built-ins or cabinet door handles, or an Arts & Crafts vibe, could be expressed? Sounds like a lot of work. 😆
I did use a jig for my 4x1 finger joints for awhile… for marking and for cutting. Works great… but for some reason I got out of the habit. I did mention it in my OLD Q&A video, but not much else to say. There are lots of foam layer sculpture options for sure! I considered doing a tree truck thing as a sculptural element in this build but… time, yeah… it’s not infinite!
So glad I found your channel! Extremely informative and interesting... fixin to get started on a small trailer... pulling with a Subaru. So weight is a big issue... thanks so much for sharing this method...
Some thoughts that came to mind watching this and the one before it. The fit up of some elements could use addressing. I would suggest maybe two sets of drawer slides to add support and longevity to them.
@@falkornomad for heavy drawers an additional set of drawer slides would distribute the weight over more area. Doubling the stability and prolonging proper fit. Less drawer sag. Personally I think I would use actual 3/4” plywood for any drawer cabinet. Cool concept and it will be great watching as it continues to evolve.
Wonder if scoring Only the sections that will receive glue, as well as their mating surface would give more bonding strength [e.g. "tooth"]. Maybe just a swipe of 40gr sandpaper ... ? THANKS for creating 'The Volumes'. Shared in several of my Van-related groups.
That’s a good point… also, apparently, the newer foam has a film on one side (I have never seen this) that weakens the bond and folks say they need to sand it off first so that’s a bummer. Thanks for the shares!
Watching this - along with other videos you've done - makes me wonder if you could create the interior in removable sections so you could load them in when you want to go on a trip then take them out when you want to use the vehicle as an empty work van. Seems like the sections would be strong enough and light enough for this. Might also be great for delivery expiditors who might only need the bed part leaving the rest for cargo. LOVE IT!! SO FLEXIBLE!!!
You read my mind!!! But you did not watch (or catch) that being mentioned in my prototype build series from 5 years ago… see my first ever video where I build a freestanding sink unit. I had the same idea for my VW van; take the seats out and put 6-9 pieces in and go on a trip… take them out and seats back in when not on a trip. Spoiler alert, I have not finished this project.
@@falkornomad Yes, literally 30 seconds after I posted you talked about separate pieces. I was actually thinking about a hybrid of sections - like the bed and under storage and the kitchen cabinets, etc.
When I used to experiment with gluing, one of the things that stood out is doing hybrid gluing. I would combine fast setting hard glue in-between slow setting flexible glues. Gluing plastics was an important focus for me and I still learn today. One thing I haven't done is a plasma etch of plastics that require it for superior bond. Another is to create a long lasting bond of a metal nut into plastic or foam. If you get some ideas, please share.
Wow…. I mean that’s beyond my exploration at this point… I’m just trying to create an example, that can serve as a reference for the potential I think exists for this build system… I appreciate that some see me as an authority on this… but, I’m just a normal guy who’s less adverse to failure and had a little capital to try new something new…
have you tried using bamboo skewers to hold pieces in place when using the expanding glue? Have you tested using expanding foam from a can as a glue/gap filler?
You have kind eyes. Appreciate you brother. So original gorilla for screw inserts and HD for everywhere else? Foam fusion if you already have it and might as well use it up. Got it.
Are there other possibilities for foam joinery? As I watched, I wondered if there were other sorts of fasteners that are made, or could be made, to join foam. Instead of screws in anchors, would metal or nylon/plastic bolts, nuts, and washers work as well or better? Could a special tape or trim with pokey bits, like Velcro but bigger and stronger, be pushed into the foam to strengthen joints or to strengthen washers? Also, I've seen videos where some recommended using sandpaper and/or alcohol to remove the smooth surface and mold release agent residue, and another who recommended a wallpaper removal tool or some other sort of tool to put small holes into the foam surface to increase the potential glue bond (but he was using TitebonII for Poor Man's Fiberglass). Any thoughts on that?
Enjoyed the series and love the concept. And think it is a great ideas and very much appreciate the depth of your investigations. However the level of finish is different to my standards, and accept that. I will trying this, however I will develop some gigs and use saws and straight edges so I can get a bit more accuracy and finished quality.
Hi, thank you for your videos. I had use the two types of Gorilla glue prior to discover your channel. Happy to have extra tips. For my part, at first I found the Gorilla construction HD glue smelling nice. But after a while, it bothered me. It wasn't nothing compared to your construction. Is the smell going away at some point? By the way in Canada this glue is a bit expensive 20$ CAN. a tube. It adds up pretty quickly to me. Thank you again for the time you take doing this and your sens of humour.
How small in width could / should one make the joins? Do you think making a shorter join would make the connection even stronger? How small of a width of connections is too small? How big is not enough to get superior strength? Are all your join areas.the same size? Or did you vary the size depending upon use? FWIW, looks like all of yours are the same size throughout the van. Would you have made any changes to the joint cut size anywhere? If so, where and why? Thanks for your answers!
My standard is 4”, I only vary if the joint is not divisible by 4 (which it usually isn’t. In that case I put the off sizes on the ends. So a 10” joint might be 2, 4, 4 for example. I suppose the more fingers the more strength, but I would not go smaller than 1” since the width of my material is 1”… that said I try not to make them ably less than 2”… no science or testing behind that. I think I mostly decided to do 2-4” for speed of cutting. The joints are REALLY strong at 4” so I’m not sure any need to go smaller.
hello bruddah, i know that the idea is to go with as light and cheap as possible, but have you considered using a 3d printer to create framework for the foam pieces that can be glued into the build in a way that adds structure, but is lighter than wood, and more resistant to moisture flex compared to it. with the R value of the insulation i doubt you have to worry about thermal expansion as much, but i would figure that moisture expansion of the wood would be an issue as time goes on.
So totally off subject of the actual glue but how do you or anyone else reading make the unform finger joints? are you building a jig or CNCing or what. Im wanting to build a foam teardrop camper well actually a foam square drop and am considering this for the exterior walls . Any advice ?
excellent idea foam build, I am in Europe and the gorilla is not on sale could you copy the formula of the 3 types, so that we can find its equivalent, thanks keep up the good stuff cheers from France
The gorilla glue original is a polyurethane glue… lots of options for that. The gorilla HD construction adhesive I don’t have the formula for… but any construction adhesive rated for foam would work similarly… do you have “liquid nails”? They make a foam specific formula that is similar.
These videos are so great. Thank you. I'm wondering if you can do this for the exterior build? It seems like you should be able to do you have any thoughts on that?
See videos on “Foamie Trailer” or “poor man’s fiberglass” for that application… same idea but using canvas for screen and Titebond glue for matrix/ paint.
Sorry I haven’t read all the comments… I am doing something similar with my RV and Van but what I did was use 3/4” foam and making a frame out of 3/4 inch studs I filled the spaces between the frame with foam and I used Titebond III glue for my wall. The wall is next to my stacked Washer and Dryer. After I sheathed both sides the wall is just about an inch thick , very strong and light. I was wondering why you didn’t try Titebond glue?
No particular reason… TiteBond is technically a wood glue and works on many things… fine for your application. I was interested in foam specific glues and glues that were flexible when dry… Titebond did not make the list.
I want to build a foam inclosed trailer what would you recommend for skinning the exterior side of the foam board and what glue/adhesive would you use?
I am not an expert on “exterior foam finishings”, I’ve see a few videos on it and they use canvas with Titebond 2 then an exterior auto paint. I would like to build a trailer though!
@@falkornomad thank you for your response..I will go ahead and try it with the tight bond2 glue and canvas. And maybe try painting it with a roll on truck bed liner since I don’t mind the texture
I read where titebond3 is actually more waterproof than 2 but needs to be cut with water for easier application but I’m sure 2 is fine. Probably gonna use waterproof paint over everything anyway @@aaronosborn7395
I don’t specifically but Gorilla Glue original is a Polyurethane glue and they are common. For the Gorilla HD construction adhesive, I would look for a construction adhesive that is intended for foam. Please let me know what you find so I can share with others, I am planning to do more tests for a future video, maybe if you find some good substitutes I can get them and test… if not we may have to do some international glue smuggling 😜
only problem with this is that i can't image how you can access water and electric to work on them. will you have to cut open the bed every time, and then patch it up
Did the Owens Corning boards (1", 4x8) you used have pre-cuts them at the 16", 28", and 44" marks? It's like they were "pre-weakened"! Obviously the slices are there to make it easy for someone to make 16" and 12" boards, but not ideal for the foam building process. The 1/2" thick Owens Corning boards do not have these slices in them.
They did have those cuts / scores, they are at 16”, 24” and 36” (not 44”, but whatever). The 2” has them as well. I try to avoid having them if I can… or run them in the same direction as the load bearing. Once the screen is on I have not noticed any issues. I could NEVER find the 1/2” foam in my area, would have loved to work with it! Next project maybe I’ll special order some.
@Howard I think it's 32" lol. I considered trying to fill this area with a little gorilla glue, but I'm not sure if this will just warp the board when it expands.
None so far... 18 months full time on the road... that said we did not get DEEP into the cold... few nights below 20 F but we traveled with the seasons for the most part.
I don’t do epoxy or fiberglass… honestly, I just don’t like working with either… but also, I’m experimenting with the bare bones of the system for a baseline of how it performs.
Both kind of… bead of HD on one piece of the two, on all the surfaces that will contact the other piece. Then when they come together it gets smooshed and spread. After it dries if I see gaps with no glue (maybe a cut it wonky) I add more and smear.
I don't want to use epoxy over fibreglass and for gluing xps together, but I think it should be discussed. Tech Ingredients did a video on this form of lamination which was interesting but I don't know how it applies to van fit outs.
Yeah, I don’t have the experience with epoxy to talk about it. I hate mixing up epoxy or 2 part glues, etc… I’m sure it has its advantages and it can certainly create a particular look on a build, but it’s just not for me. I found a few different Tech Ingredients videos on the subject and all of those would work fine in this build system, take a look at the screen and skin video released today… it’s the concept that is important, not so much the materials used.
Hi I've done epoxy on fibreglass mainly because of the extra creativity it has given me I've made cabinet and draw fronts bench top and dining table in my vintage motor home I rebuilt. It's been a learning curve but it's one of a kind as all aesthetic pieces
This way of doing the foam first and then screening makes no sense if you would do precise measurements and blueprints. Maybe inside the van it works but if ypu wanna build trailer or such, then you want strong mortise and tenon joints, which the plywood and other screen layers give to it.
I value the flexibility of these surfaces in the earthquake of daily driving, I think the brittle nature of pva may break up over time. Have you tried this at all?
The gorilla glue I used for most of the glue up would be a “construction adhesive” that hardens to a flexible / rubberized state. The gorilla glue original (for screw anchors, etc) would be harder to find. The fact that it expands as it dries is one reason it works so well.
@@falkornomad Thank you. I think I have found something. I will try your experiments and report in a video. I am totally enthusiastic about your method
Over last ten years I’ve built out two different vans this way. I recommend it totally. I never wanted the trouble of making a comprehensive video of the process, and I’m so glad this is what you have done.
Thanks
Thank you for all your videos ! I made an XPS coffee table thanks to you, reinforced with fiberglass sheets and then coated with cement for a « rock » look. It looks heavy and actually weights NOTHING 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That’s awesome! I love to hear that I had some part in a project far away! Cool idea; looks heavy, weighs nothing!
Can you provide some details - this might be a great finish for van countertops.
that sounds awesome, can you share pictures? how thick is the cement?
I've found myself out with 3 dogs van camping. Disabled guy. Not much money. THANK YOU! So awesome to have found your channel. I'll keep watching.
That is frickin cool!
Thank you for these videos, they have given my love of cardboard forts a place to be expressed. Everything is cut, with a steak knife, and starting the glueing today. Grinning ear to ear.Thank you for the joy!
Wow!, your patience is amazing, I don't even need this but now I want to try to make something this way! ;-)
Thank you! Cheers!
It's so good that you had shown all your R&D, experimenting, reasonings and results. So clear and easy to understand. I know from experience that the Gorilla glue will flow a little more if it's heated.
Thank you for all of your information!!!! Very helpful
So much science involved ,very refreshing to see this level of detail
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The skin stuff sounds interesting. There are tons of ways to make composite materials from different layers and it's great to see people sharing their experiences. Thanks!
So many skin options! I only used 4 or 5 different skins on my build, but yeah sky’s the limit on what you use!
Before this video I would have walked down this isle in the store and thought--glue. Now I know better
Oh yeah… me too… I mean wtf with the menagerie of glues in the world!?!?! 🤯
The "shear" strength is where the drawer slides are putting pressure. Your screen material added to the foam surface improves the shear strength as well. GREAT information presented.
👍🏽
The Gorilla HD makes good sense; using flexible adhesive to be consistent with the properties of the foam, then dealing with the exoskeleton/skin as required. I've been watching boat building videos for a few years... where the process is: Skin first (sprayed fibreglass into mold), then fibre glassed plywood/balsa/composite/foam is used for internal bulkhead strength to keep that exoskeleton in place. Lately I've been looking into "foamy" designs for an ebike camper, so: I'm fascinated by this kind of architecture/industrial design. This is like an elegant reversal of the boat building process, with proper experimentation to see where strength is needed. I love it! I love that you are willing to test and see what works. I also appreciate the honesty in showing us what didn't work or what you might do differently next time. In response to your request for what I would like to see: I look forward to seeing more.
Interesting, I never thought of it that way, but yeah, boat building could reveal some tips and tricks for improving the build system. Testing, failing and sharing are about the only things I do well. I think I can accommodate your request to see more👍🏽
St first I thought you was a carpenter by trade, now I think your a teacher.
Neither…. I’m a cloud software developer currently… didn’t see that coming eh?
This is by far the greatest resource I’ve seen when researching van builds. Thank you so much for these, I feel so much better about diving into a diy build!! Now I just have to get my husband to watch!! He’s not as convinced as I am of a diy project!!
Thanks! Appreciated all your trial and error. That's real science.
love how the UNI BODY is a beautiful illustration of COMMUNITY!
+1 ... Subscribed... "Foam Bones" is onto something... Truly innovative construction methods. .. Lightweight is where it's at.... Somebody provide Foam Bones a CNC machine.. Cheers, Vail, Colorado
Welcome to the channel… before I end up with another nickname… Foam Bones is what I am calling the building system, NØMAD is the name of the channel, thus what some viewers refer to me as in comments, but my name is just Eric.
Light weight is great, but see the Vol 1 “7 reasons why foam is better than wood” for the 6 other reasons I like foam. A CNC could be useful, especially if I was building multiple, but the awesome part of using a hot knife is that I can cut pieces in place and shave them down to be the exact shape I want. For example, a vertical bulk head against the factory van wall. That shape is virtually unmeasurable, but hold the foam in place and cut it down a little at a time to a nice snug fit, easy. That kind of work is hard to do on a CNC.
That all said, HELL YEAH! Somebody give me a CNC!!! Wait…. How’my gonna fit that in my van?!?!
This foam is pretty forgiving to work with. and the way you used it makes it disperse the load, and shock, and wear and tear, evenly. and have just the right amount flexibility. and showing you're trials and error in these videos. makes so others don't have to experience the same thing.
👍🏽
Man, Thank you for all your actual testing. I think you did about the best anyone could have done with testing and getting really good information out. Really like the use of materials. Good Job!!
Your videos are so great and so helpful. Thank you for making them and explaining things the way you do. I appreciate the description of how each type of glue behaves, and I love the fun little edits too like when you switch over to “camera 2” at 10:10 for introducing “thing number 2”. Excellent YouTubing, sir! Be well and keep on keepin’ on.
Thanks for noticing and noting that… I can’t do anything without trying to get better at it… sometimes I think I’m just entertaining myself and that nobody will ever notice… but then you mention it and I realize I’m wrong… again! Lol
Love the versatility of this material and methodology! Looking forward to see how you do the final finishes and edges.
You’ll be waiting awhile for those finishings… I intend to leave them exposed for the most part so I have a window into the performance of the system over the years.
Poor Puppy!😂🤣 I enjoyed watching the chill slide, then you two laughing hysterically.🤣 These vids are very interesting...I'm building out a Sienna and rethinking my build.thank you!
Very helpful. Really appreciate your knowledge, experience, and advice. Building a lightweight camper. Plain on skinning inside and outside, but like your idea of fitting first, then will probably disassemble, skin the insides except for the tabs, then glue everything together and skin the outside in a continuous process.
Good Luck!!
I personally was highly anticipating this video!
Did you get what you needed / wanted?
I've been looking forward to seeing your skinning process
It's fun to see your dog looking around the car. He seems to be thinking about how you built all this
That’s Bonnie, her nickname is “the professor” so who knows what she’s thinking. That was their first trip in the van so definitely checking it out!
You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for sharing!
Haven't tried your adhesives yet but saw a video a few years ago about various adhesives for styrofoam. A lady did it as I recall. The winner actually turned out to be a paint by Glidden called Gripper. That same paint is now owned by PPG and called Seal Grip. And it does bond foam together well as I have personally used it. Less expensive as well than specialty adhesives.
Still watching. Will have to wait till tomorrow for vol.5. Great content, orderly, and concise.4vol. are enough info to sleep on. Ready for more tomorrow. Later my friend.
Seriously… the Starwars stuff in Electrical playlist… then the Q&A from 4-5 years ago 🍻
Can't wait to see your video about skinning. I'm about to start to build a complete box to put on a 4x4 TopKick.. It needs to be tuff because of the ruff places we travel. So skinning the foam on the thin plywood is very important to solidify the whole box... I still haven't decided on the glue I'm going to use... Keep up the good work and have fun...
It’ll be out next weekend👍🏽
So much awesome info! Thank you! You seem to be answering all my questions, can't wait to get going on my project!! 👍
Great tests.
I would like to see a travel trailer build.
Search Foamie Trailer or Poor Mans Fiberglass
Search Foamie Trailer or Poor Mans Fiberglass
@@falkornomad thank you, got. Great video editing by the way.
That’s!
Bravo Brother, thanks again for sharing such a unique and valuable conversion skill.
👍🏽
Good stuff! Been using high density foam for tile waterproofing for many years now, changes everything when it comes to building 👌🏼
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The plastic anger and gorilla glue will make mounting stuff without wood blocks a lot easier. (a diy camper is never finshed) I used loctite Pl s40 polyurethane sealant for the flexible joints. I also ran a palm sander over all the 4x8 panels to improve adhesion of the skin.
Sanding is a good addition!!
This info is GOLD!!!!!!! THANK you.
You’re the man. Great content great science.
Thanks for posting another informative video. I like your vibe.
👍🏽
Love it. Great information. Thank you.
Great video❤!!! I live in a steeal sailing boat and use these foam plates to isolatie my boat and it works now for 6 years. Last winter i pute the foam plates on 2 steal walls because in the winter the walls are so colt and i painted it and it looks great. And after watching your video's i see i can do a lat with the foam plates on my boot. Thank you so match!!! Greetings from the Netherlands
Glad the video found you, thanks for the comment! 🇳🇱
Also years ago I watched a video where the lady found Glidden Gripper out performed all the foam glues
Eh… I’d like to see the science there… the gorilla hd construction adhesive has some perks (flexibility and ease of application) that are hard to argue with!!
Great content. Learned a lot. Thanks and Blessings.
👍🏽
I apologize if I missed this in a previous video but, was just wondering if a simple jig - used during cutting - would afford you quicker, more accurate joints. You could eliminate most marking I'd think? Obviously, there's an enormous market in the woodworking world for things of that nature.
I've never built with foam board like this, but it's really interesting. I wonder if some sculptural stack laminated built-ins or cabinet door handles, or an Arts & Crafts vibe, could be expressed? Sounds like a lot of work. 😆
I did use a jig for my 4x1 finger joints for awhile… for marking and for cutting. Works great… but for some reason I got out of the habit. I did mention it in my OLD Q&A video, but not much else to say. There are lots of foam layer sculpture options for sure! I considered doing a tree truck thing as a sculptural element in this build but… time, yeah… it’s not infinite!
So glad I found your channel! Extremely informative and interesting... fixin to get started on a small trailer... pulling with a Subaru. So weight is a big issue... thanks so much for sharing this method...
👍🏽
Some thoughts that came to mind watching this and the one before it. The fit up of some elements could use addressing. I would suggest maybe two sets of drawer slides to add support and longevity to them.
How do you mean "2 sets of drawer slides"?
@@falkornomad for heavy drawers an additional set of drawer slides would distribute the weight over more area. Doubling the stability and prolonging proper fit. Less drawer sag. Personally I think I would use actual 3/4” plywood for any drawer cabinet. Cool concept and it will be great watching as it continues to evolve.
Oh I see… yeah!!! Great idea!
Great Video
Where possible, Filleting inside Corners can add strength, and allow better screening flow, in that step, since sharp corners aren't always the best.
On episode 3 maybe if a 1/4 inch ply was attached to the wall it may have helped spread the weight of frying pans to a larger surface area !
Thanks
Great job
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Wonder if scoring Only the sections that will receive glue, as well as their mating surface would give more bonding strength [e.g. "tooth"]. Maybe just a swipe of 40gr sandpaper ... ? THANKS for creating 'The Volumes'. Shared in several of my Van-related groups.
That’s a good point… also, apparently, the newer foam has a film on one side (I have never seen this) that weakens the bond and folks say they need to sand it off first so that’s a bummer. Thanks for the shares!
Love the information
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Great videos
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Thanks mate handy advice
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Thanks!
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Watching this - along with other videos you've done - makes me wonder if you could create the interior in removable sections so you could load them in when you want to go on a trip then take them out when you want to use the vehicle as an empty work van. Seems like the sections would be strong enough and light enough for this.
Might also be great for delivery expiditors who might only need the bed part leaving the rest for cargo.
LOVE IT!! SO FLEXIBLE!!!
You read my mind!!! But you did not watch (or catch) that being mentioned in my prototype build series from 5 years ago… see my first ever video where I build a freestanding sink unit. I had the same idea for my VW van; take the seats out and put 6-9 pieces in and go on a trip… take them out and seats back in when not on a trip. Spoiler alert, I have not finished this project.
@@falkornomad Yes, literally 30 seconds after I posted you talked about separate pieces. I was actually thinking about a hybrid of sections - like the bed and under storage and the kitchen cabinets, etc.
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When I used to experiment with gluing, one of the things that stood out is doing hybrid gluing. I would combine fast setting hard glue in-between slow setting flexible glues.
Gluing plastics was an important focus for me and I still learn today.
One thing I haven't done is a plasma etch of plastics that require it for superior bond.
Another is to create a long lasting bond of a metal nut into plastic or foam.
If you get some ideas, please share.
Wow…. I mean that’s beyond my exploration at this point… I’m just trying to create an example, that can serve as a reference for the potential I think exists for this build system… I appreciate that some see me as an authority on this… but, I’m just a normal guy who’s less adverse to failure and had a little capital to try new something new…
have you tried using bamboo skewers to hold pieces in place when using the expanding glue? Have you tested using expanding foam from a can as a glue/gap filler?
No I have not, I have used skewers to hold things in place before gluing (for mock ups), but I prefer the gorilla hd for its flexibility when dry.
Liked subscribed 👍
You have kind eyes. Appreciate you brother. So original gorilla for screw inserts and HD for everywhere else? Foam fusion if you already have it and might as well use it up. Got it.
You nailed it!
Are there other possibilities for foam joinery? As I watched, I wondered if there were other sorts of fasteners that are made, or could be made, to join foam. Instead of screws in anchors, would metal or nylon/plastic bolts, nuts, and washers work as well or better? Could a special tape or trim with pokey bits, like Velcro but bigger and stronger, be pushed into the foam to strengthen joints or to strengthen washers?
Also, I've seen videos where some recommended using sandpaper and/or alcohol to remove the smooth surface and mold release agent residue, and another who recommended a wallpaper removal tool or some other sort of tool to put small holes into the foam surface to increase the potential glue bond (but he was using TitebonII for Poor Man's Fiberglass). Any thoughts on that?
Enjoyed the series and love the concept. And think it is a great ideas and very much appreciate the depth of your investigations. However the level of finish is different to my standards, and accept that. I will trying this, however I will develop some gigs and use saws and straight edges so I can get a bit more accuracy and finished quality.
Yeah, my finishing is a bit rough (in a hurry toward the end) and I left the trim off for awhile for these videos and again, time was short.
Hi, thank you for your videos. I had use the two types of Gorilla glue prior to discover your channel. Happy to have extra tips. For my part, at first I found the Gorilla construction HD glue smelling nice. But after a while, it bothered me. It wasn't nothing compared to your construction. Is the smell going away at some point? By the way in Canada this glue is a bit expensive 20$ CAN. a tube. It adds up pretty quickly to me. Thank you again for the time you take doing this and your sens of humour.
We do not notice the glue smell in the build. Maybe we are not sensitive to it?
ThankQ
Yep
You stated you liked the foam fusion for furniture pieces. Is that still true?
Nice!
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How small in width could / should one make the joins? Do you think making a shorter join would make the connection even stronger? How small of a width of connections is too small? How big is not enough to get superior strength? Are all your join areas.the same size? Or did you vary the size depending upon use?
FWIW, looks like all of yours are the same size throughout the van. Would you have made any changes to the joint cut size anywhere? If so, where and why?
Thanks for your answers!
My standard is 4”, I only vary if the joint is not divisible by 4 (which it usually isn’t. In that case I put the off sizes on the ends. So a 10” joint might be 2, 4, 4 for example.
I suppose the more fingers the more strength, but I would not go smaller than 1” since the width of my material is 1”… that said I try not to make them ably less than 2”… no science or testing behind that. I think I mostly decided to do 2-4” for speed of cutting. The joints are REALLY strong at 4” so I’m not sure any need to go smaller.
hello bruddah, i know that the idea is to go with as light and cheap as possible, but have you considered using a 3d printer to create framework for the foam pieces that can be glued into the build in a way that adds structure, but is lighter than wood, and more resistant to moisture flex compared to it. with the R value of the insulation i doubt you have to worry about thermal expansion as much, but i would figure that moisture expansion of the wood would be an issue as time goes on.
It’s a good idea, just don’t own the technology
I like the idea and information just wondering if it would work in a semi truck
Like the sleeping cab area? Sure, not that much different, that I know of.
So totally off subject of the actual glue but how do you or anyone else reading make the unform finger joints? are you building a jig or CNCing or what. Im wanting to build a foam teardrop camper well actually a foam square drop and am considering this for the exterior walls . Any advice ?
Can this system ne used for the exterior walls and floor of a foamie trailer?
excellent idea foam build, I am in Europe and the gorilla is not on sale could you copy the formula of the 3 types, so that we can find its equivalent, thanks keep up the good stuff cheers from France
The gorilla glue original is a polyurethane glue… lots of options for that. The gorilla HD construction adhesive I don’t have the formula for… but any construction adhesive rated for foam would work similarly… do you have “liquid nails”? They make a foam specific formula that is similar.
If you find good alternatives I’d love to know the brand names for future videos!!
These videos are so great. Thank you. I'm wondering if you can do this for the exterior build? It seems like you should be able to do you have any thoughts on that?
See videos on “Foamie Trailer” or “poor man’s fiberglass” for that application… same idea but using canvas for screen and Titebond glue for matrix/ paint.
Sorry I haven’t read all the comments… I am doing something similar with my RV and Van but what I did was use 3/4” foam and making a frame out of 3/4 inch studs I filled the spaces between the frame with foam and I used Titebond III glue for my wall. The wall is next to my stacked Washer and Dryer. After I sheathed both sides the wall is just about an inch thick , very strong and light. I was wondering why you didn’t try Titebond glue?
No particular reason… TiteBond is technically a wood glue and works on many things… fine for your application. I was interested in foam specific glues and glues that were flexible when dry… Titebond did not make the list.
I want to build a foam inclosed trailer what would you recommend for skinning the exterior side of the foam board and what glue/adhesive would you use?
I am not an expert on “exterior foam finishings”, I’ve see a few videos on it and they use canvas with Titebond 2 then an exterior auto paint.
I would like to build a trailer though!
@@falkornomad thank you for your response..I will go ahead and try it with the tight bond2 glue and canvas. And maybe try painting it with a roll on truck bed liner since I don’t mind the texture
I read where titebond3 is actually more waterproof than 2 but needs to be cut with water for easier application but I’m sure 2 is fine. Probably gonna use waterproof paint over everything anyway @@aaronosborn7395
Great videos man! Do you know by chance some comparable glues available in the EU ?
I don’t specifically but Gorilla Glue original is a Polyurethane glue and they are common. For the Gorilla HD construction adhesive, I would look for a construction adhesive that is intended for foam. Please let me know what you find so I can share with others, I am planning to do more tests for a future video, maybe if you find some good substitutes I can get them and test… if not we may have to do some international glue smuggling 😜
only problem with this is that i can't image how you can access water and electric to work on them. will you have to cut open the bed every time, and then patch it up
what the best glue for foam on metal of the van ceiling, floor and walls?
Did the Owens Corning boards (1", 4x8) you used have pre-cuts them at the 16", 28", and 44" marks? It's like they were "pre-weakened"! Obviously the slices are there to make it easy for someone to make 16" and 12" boards, but not ideal for the foam building process. The 1/2" thick Owens Corning boards do not have these slices in them.
They did have those cuts / scores, they are at 16”, 24” and 36” (not 44”, but whatever). The 2” has them as well. I try to avoid having them if I can… or run them in the same direction as the load bearing. Once the screen is on I have not noticed any issues.
I could NEVER find the 1/2” foam in my area, would have loved to work with it! Next project maybe I’ll special order some.
@@falkornomad lol...so much for my math skills!
@Howard I think it's 32" lol. I considered trying to fill this area with a little gorilla glue, but I'm not sure if this will just warp the board when it expands.
What do you think about windshield urethane? Great series by the way.
Never considered it… why do you think it would be good?
@@falkornomad flexible and strong. Also doesn't run.
Nice… I’ll add it to my next tests 👍🏽
Any heat or cold failure problems w these glues?
None so far... 18 months full time on the road... that said we did not get DEEP into the cold... few nights below 20 F but we traveled with the seasons for the most part.
Cool are you using epoxy fibreglass anywhere?
I don’t do epoxy or fiberglass… honestly, I just don’t like working with either… but also, I’m experimenting with the bare bones of the system for a baseline of how it performs.
When I was Young & dumb...or pehaps,'unlearned' I got a book on t subject( auto mechanis> chevy
I know… I forgot to wet it… I know to do this but just spaced it.
Do you smear the Gorilla HD around, or just leave a bead?
Both kind of… bead of HD on one piece of the two, on all the surfaces that will contact the other piece. Then when they come together it gets smooshed and spread. After it dries if I see gaps with no glue (maybe a cut it wonky) I add more and smear.
@@falkornomad makes sense, thank you.
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I don't want to use epoxy over fibreglass and for gluing xps together, but I think it should be discussed. Tech Ingredients did a video on this form of lamination which was interesting but I don't know how it applies to van fit outs.
Yeah, I don’t have the experience with epoxy to talk about it. I hate mixing up epoxy or 2 part glues, etc… I’m sure it has its advantages and it can certainly create a particular look on a build, but it’s just not for me. I found a few different Tech Ingredients videos on the subject and all of those would work fine in this build system, take a look at the screen and skin video released today… it’s the concept that is important, not so much the materials used.
@@falkornomad Good point. It is about the laminating foam, not so much what is used. Subtle but very important.
Hi I've done epoxy on fibreglass mainly because of the extra creativity it has given me I've made cabinet and draw fronts bench top and dining table in my vintage motor home I rebuilt. It's been a learning curve but it's one of a kind as all aesthetic pieces
Have you tried using spy foam to join together your pices?😅
Spy foam? Do you mean spray foam?
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This way of doing the foam first and then screening makes no sense if you would do precise measurements and blueprints. Maybe inside the van it works but if ypu wanna build trailer or such, then you want strong mortise and tenon joints, which the plywood and other screen layers give to it.
Using a mix of borax and pva glue may be something you want to look at for a hardened finish over poor mans fiberglass type construction.
I value the flexibility of these surfaces in the earthquake of daily driving, I think the brittle nature of pva may break up over time. Have you tried this at all?
thx a lot. The only problem I see, is to find an alternative product in Germany. Cause Gorilla glue dosen't exist here
The gorilla glue I used for most of the glue up would be a “construction adhesive” that hardens to a flexible / rubberized state. The gorilla glue original (for screw anchors, etc) would be harder to find. The fact that it expands as it dries is one reason it works so well.
@@falkornomad Thank you. I think I have found something. I will try your experiments and report in a video.
I am totally enthusiastic about your method
Gorilla glue original is polyurethane glue. You should be able to fine polyurethane glue.
I DID NOT know this… polyurethane glue eh… learn something new every day!
ThankQ
You're welcome