Been twisting wrenches for 40 years, i have NEVER "replaced" a STOCK carburetor on any car i was bringing back to life from the dead. Those old carbs can be cleaned refurbished reset and will work perfectly for YEARS. The crap carbs they make now to replace those vintage units are garbage. ...point is rebuild your old one and you will be far better off ...... thanks for another great video Tony 😊👍
Can confirm. Inherited a 71 Chevy C10, 250/3spd. Ol' Rochester Monojet still worked well enough to drive it after sitting for 20 years! Ran pig rich in the midrange and very cold natured but otherwise fine. I put a kit in it....metering rods were stuck from goo....cleaned it out, and boom. It's dailyable.
The worst carb was the Carter B & B on the slant 6, they did NOT feature reinforcing ribs dwn the sides, do up the screws and the top deformed like buggery, , I placed alloy tubes on the side to take the down force otherwise they either distorted under load or lacked proper seating if not tightened. and if you fitted a substitute carb you had to make sure you got the right one for either manual or auto trans, apart from the variation in auto choke setting you had to make sure you had a 28 thou needle in the Auto and a 22 thou in the manual, wondered why I got crap economy in my auto with a manual carb.
I've got an antique Farmall tractor that the original carb's top was badly warped and leaked gas. A used placement was around $300 several years ago. I bought a knock off replacement off of Amazon just for the body and put my original carb's parts in the knock off casings. The only thing that didn't fit was the fuel inlet fitting. It works great and I still use the old tractor haul things around the place and other light duties.
Did the exact same thing on my kawasaki ninja 250. I gutted the crappy amazon carb and put in all the oem keihin parts and it has been running great for 500 miles so far.
I've had decent luck finding fair used OEM carbs on eBay for Briggs engines. That's because a Chinese knockoff might be suspect to make the same power. Briggs plays games with throttle travel and jetting, that might be the only difference between a 23hp Briggs vs a 25hp Briggs ,so I'm pretty sure the knockoffs won't have close to the same specs I require. I haven't tried a knockoff yet but I see it's hit or miss ,and miss is probably above 65%
Also, living on a giant lake I have towed a lot of boats that failed to proceed. My first response is 'did you clean the pilot jets'. No, I just bought some new stuff from Amazon.
Tony back in 1980 to 84 I worked for acme auto in ct. I purchased new carbs for a slant 6 and a ford 170 cu in. I paid less than 75$ each back then and they were oems. I cannot believe that at that cost even adjusted to today that the US could not do it again if we just start to make something again.
Back then they were mass producing carbs by the millions for OEM use. Since 1986 there have been only fuel injection cars made. Making small numbers of carbs for the aftermarket is a lot more expensive than turning them out by the millions.
One thing that not too many people think about is all of the engineering/testing that went into those original parts (carbs/rods/pistons/valves/etc.). The engineers had to figure out what metallurgy to use where crap like this either didn't happen or at least took years and years to happen! China?... not so much! They make a mold, make a copy, never worrying about longevity, function, etc.!! If they can take someone else's creation and make a mold of it, many times they will put it out on the market and even put the other company's name on the damned things!!! I miss "Made in America" parts and products!!! Yes, they were more expensive, but most of the time, they were great parts/products!!
Carburetors used to be made of zamak, a zinc based alloy that contained aluminum, copper and others. It is harder, stronger, less corrosion prone and less porous than cast aluminum, also much more expensive. Aluminum is really not as desirable a base material for carburetors no matter where they are made. Ethanol makes matters worse. Best to keep good zamak bodies if possible.
I used to be a diecaster for a long time and we used to use Zamak 27 for some parts we were casting that were going to be subjected to moisture more than usual. One of the contracts we had with Johnson fishing reels those used ZA 27 for the spindle used to hold the fishing line on that was under the cover because it would get exposed to water from reeling in the line and they were designed this way to help keep corrosion down . The rest of the frame of the reel was made of aluminum 380 but those got tumbled then powder coated black . We had a contract with John Deere & I was casting rider mower decks that took a 60 pound pour of 360 aluminum & the reason why these were being made of 360 aluminum instead of 380 was because these mower decks once finished were being shipped to England because they get a lot of rain and fog that everything gets exposed to . The die casting machine that ran this huge mold had 750 ton clamping power & it was fully automated so no hand pouring a 60 pound shot plus it sprayed both sides of the dies except 1 area I had to manually spray at the same time the automatic sprayer was spaying and then it would blow air at the dies to get any excess die slick lubricant off which is a mixture of water and die slick that's used as a releasing agent so the part doesn't get stuck to the dies & helps any sliding cores from getting stuck in the part so they open & close by the packer pins . Once they are sprayed & blown off I would push the door closed button and the door would close & the dies close up and the laddel automatically pours the shot into the shot sleeve and the ram automatically pushes the molten aluminum into the dies and it sits closed by a timer for the amount of time needed for the part to solidify then the dies open up & the part can be pulled off of the cold side of the die that had the ejector pins in it . That process I had to pull the deck out by hand using special gloves so my hands wouldn't get burned . Once I looked the mower deck over for any swirls poor fill & defects or broken cores it got pushed on a roller line that had fans on both sides of it to cool the deck off enough that the person trimming the deck then they got stacked 3 high & then would go to machining to be machined then powder coated and eventually shipped out to JD . I casted parts for Moroso Arctic cat Polaris Toro Honda Harley Davidson Minn kota GM and a lot of military stuff like O jives slides and mine dummies that were used for training that couldn't have any porosity in the casting & had to weigh a certain amount and if not it had to be scrapped. We even made a small part for the new cars trucks coming out back then for what was new then the air bags we see in every car truck now and I also casted air plane magneto housings that were a insert job that had the magnets that had to be heated then inserted into the die then closed up and the shot poured so the magnets were part of the casting . Some of the Honda parts we were casting were made of Magnesium which is nasty stuff that if spilled can burn holes right through thick cement and the only way to put out a magnesium fire is to smother it from oxygen or it will keep burning . Finally got out of it after 15+ years & got back into working on cars at some shops that specialized in working on old cars muscle cars old trucks and 2 speed shops I worked at after . I had started out working on cars but at that time the pay wasn't very good & did the die casting thing for years because the pay was better & we would get extra bonus for making more parts per hour if you made over quota as long as the parts were good from inspection and were up to ISO 9002 at the time but eventually I left & went back to working at said shops because the pay was much better and not so hot or dangerous work & I ended up doing this for 30 years until I basically retired but still work on old cars at times for extra cash at times .
This is why I've been more interested in rebushing a worn throttle shaft on an original BBD , than tossing it and getting a Chinese replica . There's usually something not right with Chinese stuff , and I dont want to give them money if I can avoid it anyway.
The Chinese carbs are made out of some cheap pot metal that reacts with the ethanol in the fuel . I have been through this with Honda 90 chinese carbs . They turn white inside in 2 months . I bought a Chinese carb for a snowblower last fall and it never worked . Rebuilt the original snd no problems . No more chinesium carbs.
If it truly the Case Uncle Tony's Garage I would love to see videos of him in Cuba Learning about how the Cubans keep there classic cars on the road with no parts support that would right up Tony's alley (pause) anyways another interesting video U.T.G.
Good input. My son put an amazon carb on a new chainsaw that never ran well and it started first pull and ran great. He was impressed. My gut told me they had to be cutting corners. I think with the 2 stroke oil in the fuel they will be less likely to corrosion.
I literally just removed a 74’ bad from my 318la. It’s in fantastic condition. Since it’s oem I figured I’d keep it for now. Bought a rebuild kit thinking it was gonna be needed, I barely got a 1/4 of the way through and buttoned it all back up. Built to last.
I got several “rebuild” carburetors that didn’t work right out of the box. Jetted wrong, bad gaskets. The main thing is the throttle shaft gets worn, and needs to be rebushed. A lot if them aren’t and you have a vacuum leak that makes the engine run shitty.
@@anthonyking4387 I learned from my dad who was a depression-era child. He knew how to take care of equipment and get the mail out of it. Case in point, I'm now the caretaker of his one and only new car.
I have found high quality rebuilds with shaft bushings from Canada reasonably priced. Or I get a long drill and reamer, some bushings and do it myself.
I was kinda thinking that wouldn't work out well. I mean....when the float bowl vent tube flies out and almost gets sucked into the engine, that clues me in to further issues with that chinese crap! Thanks, Uncle Tony. Hope you saved someone some heartache. Take care, brother!
I've got an Amazon 40 IDF on my Volkswagen Bug. A single center mount. I've been pleased with it. I've got Weber and HPMX parts in it. And jets off eBay that also come from China.
You don't need to anodize the parts. A bottle of Alodine will take care of protecting the metal. Its made for aluminum, but will help on steel as well.
I had to put a replacement marine fuel pump on a mercruiser 305. The original that failed, had clearance enough to swing a ratchet. The new one, did not. Same thing when a customer brought us a Chinese replacement carb that was giving him a hard time. the originals were machined properly for tools to fit, ease of maintenance. the Chinese replacement did not have these clearances. I had to do the ole wrench 1/16 a turn at a time trick. Miserable.
You don`t need to anodize that stuff. If it`s metal and you can heat it to 325 degrees in your oven, all you need is an airbrush and KG coating. Optimal coating for KG is about 0.0004" to 0.0005" thick. You do need to blast it lightly with maybe 320 grit abrasive, then degrease it ( I use 90% rubbing alcohol), hang it and spray with the air brush until covered. then bake in the oven for an hour at 325 degrees. There is no solvent that will remove it, you have to blast it off. No mixing with anything, straight out of the can, if you have any left in the airbrush, pour it back in the can. I use this on all of my projects, my intake manifolds to keep them from corroding, my precision rifles, motorcycle parts. Don`t even think about using that Cerakote junk, it`s two part and you waste what you don`t use. The optimal coating for Cerakote is around 0.0015", three times as thick. Remember, KG Coatings, right here in Texas, USA. Plus they have a bunch of colors, like if you wanted a blue carb! Got a Q-jet with the light green Teflon coating gone off the shafts? You can spray this stuff on and bake it and it has Teflon and MolyD in it, self lubricating. You can also build it up until you get the fit you want, if it ain`t wore plumb out.
After watching Scribbles almost injest a siphon tube...you said do your own qc. So I did on a holley 2300 350cfm 2bbl from zon....it had paper gaskets...and accelator pump...jets with no numbers...spent money a Holley blue gasket set ....e85 rated accelator pump and some jets.....$40 saved headaches down the road... Thanks for recommending doing own qc. 👍
Tony drives his stuff more than most which is why he runs regular 87 with ethanol. It evaporates fast vs old fuels, can have this type of corrosion. I’ve seen it many times on motorcycles and snowmobiles. But the difference is that the cheaper Chinese materials don’t handle it as well as the older original parts. I’m still going to give a china carb a try on our 63 Chevy with the 230 i6. But I also run premium with no ethanol because my car sits for weeks, sometimes months and I’ve never had corrosion issues with premium in everything I run it in. But what we are seeing here is things we shouldn’t have to worry about running today’s fuels, but now it does make a difference. And that’s IF all the internals are correct out of the box, because not every carb leaves the sweat shop the same. Just some things to consider.
I have had good success with 6-cylinder & 4-cylinder engines using WEBER new carbs. I sure the jetting of a WEBBER would work on any 2-bbl equipped engine. My customer has a CJ7 and was ready to replace the engine. Carb was making it run badly, and the WEBER WOKE IT UP. Still 4-years later...she loves me.
Definitely work with that carb!! I'll bet it worked OK before that bolt shank got corroded. Opening that slot should get it working right. Maybe add a little 2 cycle oil to that car's fuel from now on...😁
Dealing with similar "quality" on my 1st gen Dodge Cummins regarding injectors. I cheaped out and got some amazon specials which have proven to be a sh!t show...and I have access to a pop tester and adjustment shims, it's the Chynna nozzles that just won't pop/chatter properly...you get what you pay for.
Power driven diesel stage 2 injectors are awesome for a first gen. Lots of power with less smoke than stock and better fuel mileage. It’s the real deal.
Get another manifold and put an Edelbrock on it. I have to replace the accelerator pump on the genuine Weber carb on the 2.0L SOHC four cylinder in my 1972 Ford Pinto about once a year. Ethanol melts them.
Logically ethanol is stupid since we are burning food and wasting land to produce said ethanol. Realistically this is too far embedded and subsidized for farmers. I doubt it will go anywhere.
Been running a Chinese carb on the kids 318 wide block and it’s working. I have zero information on the carb. Came in a box that said made in china. Bolted it on and it worked lol
I threw 8-10 old Carters, Holleys and Thermoquads with associated parts away, maybe 15 years ago. I always kinda regretted it, but my garage is so full of tools and tires and motorcycles sometimes you just gave to purge.
I recently bought a Chinese Q-jet for one of the 440's as a replacement for the old one that I tore its airhorn gasket. The cost of the new carburetor was barely twice the cost of a rebuilt kit to obtain the gasket. Sure, I kept the old carburetor. I will have a more experienced guy reassemble it. But the Chinese Q-jet is working just fine.
Dude I admire your obsession With the Chinese carburetor. I've been down the same road they are either junk or amazing. I've experienced both been amazed 4 the price it's perfect looks good everything fits. Then experienced the absolute complete opposite. I have bought them just for upper and lower castings and bought rebuild kits for the originals and make 2 carbs out of One Plus a Extra Rebuild kit or 2.I still appreciate what you're trying to do. But I Run a shop that's for-profit the last few times I've had to address these problems on old carbureted cars where the customer doesn't care if it stays stock. I buy a bottom dollar cheap 4 barrel manifold and put it edlbrock 600 with electric choke . In this Day an age the ethanol fuel screws up every carburetor even just been sitting around for a 1 week or 2 I'm i'm sick of having your prime the The Down the vent tubes or spray carb or break clean to get the thing to start my 71 chevy unfortunately going to get a little electric funky Pump on toggle switch just for starting up. when I know it's gonna set for a while. I've always had a little 3/8 Lever handle ball valve to shut the fuel off. I'm going to start shutting that and let it run out of fuel. Then fuel the carb Through the vents with marine 2 stroke mix 50 to 1. I've been doing this on my generator for a few years haven't had to clean the Evaporated Ethanol white crusty Chunk stuff out for a while.
I decided to skip the authenticity aspect on my '83 Imperial. After all, to be truly authentic it'd be running the fuel injector anyway. Drilled a plate to fit the manifold and bolted on a new Holley 2300 wih electric choke. Since the FI stock intake manny didn't have a choke well, this made the 2300 even more right. I get the originality deal, but even if it wasn't this situation, I'd probably be doing it anyway. For me, its more about enjoying it now.
You could take the good parts out of your old carburetor and put in the Chinese carburetor and make it work that way I would hate to do it but that would be one way to fix it
I have a knockoff Holley 1904 1 barrel carb on my daily driver, a 79 Subaru with an 89 EA71S engine. It's mounted to a modified stock single carb intake for an EA71. The EA71S originally had a dual carb intake which is unobtainable, and the 1904 flows as much as two stock Hitachi carburetors. A good 1904 is hard to find today, and it's such a simple carburetor that even the knockoff is decent quality. No metering rods, simple power valve, plain piston accelerator pump. It's been running fine for 200,000 miles and takes a standard Holley jet. The inside of the bowl is spotless. But that's an older knockoff, I think it's around 6 or 7 years old. It's fairly heavy. Eventually it will get replaced with dual Chevy Vega Monojets directly over the intake ports on custom adapters (intake ports are shared between two cylinders). Vega monojets are still cheap and easily available new old stock. The jet hole can be rethreaded to take a Holley jet. That's the setup I ran on my previous 83 Subaru, dual Vega Monojets with an external thermostat housing. It seems to me like the smaller 1 barrel knockoff carbs at least a few years ago were better quality than the larger ones.
The last carb I rebuilt was on a snow blower in 2012. I went to the hardware store and got a kit and a governor spring and it has ran great since. I used to rebuild carbs and alternators in the old days but I don't even think they sell parts or kits to do that anymore so you kind of have to buy new. Diodes are probably still in an alternator but brushes are not a thing anymore. I think the last alternator may have been on a crane around 1996. They made it so easy to buy and replace no one has an original part left to work with. I always liked the GM plastic floats they knew would sink the second ethanol hit them even though they knew ethanol was gonna be required by law. They had to keep dealers working.
I'm one of those kooky Quadrajet guys, and with the exception of my V8 Studebaker Lark (Stromberg WW 2 barrel currently, but looking to upgrade to a correct Carter WCFB 4 barrel in the future), most of my experience is Q-Jets. I've only seen the Chinese Quadrajet clones in videos and at a distance in real life, but can't see them as much more than a carburetor shaped object... it's like they took parts from a number of different Q-jet models, cloned them out of some acceptable/passable materials and some cream cheese; then approximated or spitballed the rest. There was a guy on RUclips who went through all of the steps to make one of these C-Jets into a usable carburetor, which involved many modifications that included machining, changing jets and metering rods, using parts of other legit Quadrajets), and a significant amount of dyno time with wideband oxygen sensors. Symptoms initially were similar to yours, and he came to a very similar conclusion. These are probably best relegated to shelf art or paperweight or doorstop duty, if there's any possibility of locating a usable OEM carb and/or piecing one together out of OE parts.
There used to be a Corvette guy that posted online every Qjet part number for every GM engine that ever used a Qjet in history with all relevant OEM specs for primary and secondary jets and rods. I used his resource and rebuilt many late 60s early 70s Qjets, shaft bushings and all, excellent results, greatest carburetor ever.
I know Chinese Pot Metal corrodes twice as fast using gas with ethanol than non ethanol gas. It takes less than 6 months for the Chinesium to break down and coke up everything. Even zink coating can't help a carb made of Chinesium. If you want Chinesium Carbs to last? You have to drain out all the gas and flush with Kroil before storage or winterizing.
Plating/alloy/tempering deficiencies. Before the epa arrived to hobble American industry [setting up the China dominance of today], we were on top regarding treatments and coatings. I recall a story from the 80's where they found & retrieved a ww2 plane from the depths of the pacific ocean and... barely a spot of corrosion - they had to hunt to find any..
@adcoxrobert3786So I live in California which everyone seems to believe is a black hole of “over regulation” that makes any manufacturing impossible. Despite “over regulation”, California leads the nation in manufacturing output and employment. Manufacturing is also growing in California and it’s doing so at a faster pace than in any other state and has been for thirty years. And for a little perspective the US is the world’s second largest manufacturer, behind only China. What “over regulation” has done to California is to help keep manufacturers from pumping things like chromium-6 into the air. So, yes, there is such a thing as over regulation but the regulations you think are stifling output or growth aren’t actually the problem. If manufacturing is on the decline in your state it’s because of something other than regulations
I got a carb for a honda motor on a large industrial air compressor. Direct bolt on and works great ten years later. Dark grey and same weight as the original carb. Maybe got lucky there. Thanks uncle Tony.
Thanks for the video UT, interesting as always. Hey, is that the propane 383 sitting in that white car in the background? I'm still hoping you will get back to that sometime soon. Good luck with scribbles!
I’ve also used a couple Amazon carriers for small engines and while they do make them run, they’re not as great as the original carburetors. My chainsaw for example, runs decent, but it requires the choke and to be primed on a warm engine every time it’s shut down after 10 minutes because the check valves inside don’t hold the fuel in the carburetor. Coincidentally, if you throw it in the back of your tractor or truck and go over a lot of bumps on a hot day, it will flood itself badly from the pressure in the gas tank because again, the carburetor kinda sucks compared to the original. Lol
Weird one. 351 Windsor when I got it the adjuster screws on the carb snapped off when I turned them. Not knowing any better I grabbed a new carb off of Amazon. Now I know which parts to swap from the old one. Yep I kept the broken one. Thank you Uncle Tony for saving me a bunch of trouble “down the road”🎉
I'm sure you're gonna make a video on that I would like to see it I totally appreciate you being a true mechanic and fixing and repairing mechanical equipment which is the definition of a mechanic. getting to the root cause of the problem instead of buying cheap s*** off eBay or Amazon. But I appreciate your due diligence that's what the automotive community is lacking these days. Sometimes you just gotta work with what you got. I'm a automotive mechanic By trade but I moonlight in the winter time in my local area when everybody's generator has the same problem it's all Gunked up with evaporated ethanol fuel and the white crumbninety 99% of the time I can take the bowl off a carb can clean blow out the jets clean everything out. Hunderd bucks each in my pocket every winter I got a line of generators out the door. So for a small engine guy you already know this money in your pocket.
Went through (2) Made in China fuel pumps in a few months that leaked oil where the top & bottom halves are crimped together. A carquest & delphi. Then bought a NOS 1992 AC Delco made in USA off of ebay from probably Western Auto or one of the old parts stores that went out of business. Guess what ? Zero leaks & still pumping 6+ psi after 3 years.
Two years ago I bought an Amazon knockoff Keihin carb for my cr125. Before installing I set the float and I keep the air screw in adjustment. So far it's been ok.Maybe because there is oil in the fuel it will help with todays gas?
I recently installed one of these because the cost was only a little bit more than a rebuild kit. So far no issues i guess once it starts to crap out ill use it for parts mainly the throttle shaft. The 2 carter bbds i had both had worn throttle shafts. Also from Australia we dont have ethanol in our standard fuel. E10 is an option.
Hello Uncle Tony , thnx for this video , great to see differences up close ! A bit off topic , but wanted to ask how good are the Holley 4010 / 4011 carbs ? They were m9stly shunned by the 4150 crowd , but after looking at them , seem to hold many good concepts , etc.. Were they alright ? Thinking about using one in blo - thru appln. They have simplified fuel metering along w ann boosters . Wanted to enclose entire carb in a box like vortech has . Thanks for any info.
A few years ago I got a knock off 2 BBL Ford carby for the OL' Lady's F250. I couldn't be happier. But i do have humble sympathy for my fellow gearheads that are having problems.
Hi Tony been watching for a while now and just subscribed. I enjoy your videos, I started out in a Chrysler Plymouth dealership from 68-72 so I've always had a soft spot for the old MOPARS (currently doing a First Gen Hemi/46RH swap into an ex-drag car 69 Valiant). Just wondering if the threads on the aftermarket carbs are metric or SAE and if the internals are close enough to interchange between an original and the aftermarket carb. If so even a totally junked out carb may be may be worth saving just for odds and ends parts.
that looks like corrosion from bad gas, are you sure you didn't get water in the gas or a batch of high ethanol gas? where I live they are increasing the amount of ethanol in gas lately, some gas pumps went from E5 (0 to 5%) to E10 (10% with a small tolerance), so if you got E5 you could be getting anywhere from ethanol free to 5% but with E10 it's always 10%. Some gas pumps luckily still have E5.
I have been using Chinese copies of Carter 2 barrel carbs on Packard straight 8s. Work just fine. We have 99 octane E5 gas here in England, normally a lot less than 5% ethanol, especially Exxon, and that might help. Suggestion: get a Chinese carb and a US overhaul kit, and swap out the parts. The kit costs more than the carb!
Uncle tony i have a question. I hear on motortrend forms about old carbed engines having fuel wash and oil contamination due to cold starts and issues with the chokes. Is this something to worry about, im planning on in the future doing a 383 dart 70 or a 360 with points and a edelbrock carb to start with. My personal opinion is people dont adjust there carburetors enough to begin with, so the fix would be just adjust the jets/drop rods for a cold start and idle stop screw and choke lever and when it warms up adjust it back? Idk i like efi but with modern aftermarket systems idk ive seen some expensive repairs and bs pertaining to that system.😊
I would be interesting in trying to anodize that one at home. The problem is, I'm not sure if the thickness of oxide material will hurt the passages inside. To me, you'd want those passages coated, to prevent corrosion internally, however that may affect the calibration of the various ciruits.
2 1/2 years and 9k miles on my Autolite 2150 amazon knock off for my 360 FE 72 F250. Liked it so much I bought another one and put it away for the future. Not defending anyone but the Autolites literally have 4 moving parts so maybe thas he difference.
Good information to the ones with no knowledge, they still have complete rebuild kits , it’s just hard to find old school stuff Info is dead on, just hard to find . School em, lol 😆 we are not all dead yet Keep up the good work!
Switch to ethanol-free gasoline (you can usually find it at gas stations near lakes or at marinas) and add Sta-Bil to every tank if it's going to sit for any period of time. That's what I figured out to stop the same problem on the carburetor on my Harbor Freight generator, I went through three carburetors (whole carburetors are cheaper than the rebuild kits) before I started doing that. It started on year old gasoline on the first pull when a tornado knocked out power to my town and my fiancee's mother needed power for her nebulizer and CPAP (and the window unit I took over to cool her room).
#1-"Could" the Chineese have a different fuel with lead or something like we had 30 years ago? Even if the metalurgic alliage is way cheaper lighter from a OEM Carter. They dont follow the same emission controls as we do. Maybe it makes the corrosion a little faster? #2 "Would" adding a little bit of transmission oil or a cup of something could help prevent the corrosion? I didn't know about Zinc and corrosion before you, and some youtubers, mention the correlation with too much ZDDP additives. I did buy a Amazon BBD for my motorhome 318 cause it was only 30$ more than the gaskets set. It runs fine but the screws are made of very soft aluminium mix and dont think it will like ajustements much. You can see the treads warping from turning them.
I also, bought a chinese knock off on Amazon. The one that was on the car , the body was totally cracked and i could not remove some screws, they were all stuck from corrosion. So i bought that one for the body on Amazon. Are they the 🤔same? can we work it out with new BBD rebuild kit?..its not installed yet, but should i leave it or redo it before i install it on the car?🤨
Tony, since these cheap carbs are all that is available easily for some, how about going through it and showing us how to make it last longer. Substitute stainless or brass parts you make yourself or source from McMasterCarr materials stock, etc., show how to set up anodizing to treat the carbs so they don't corrode, etc.
and if you want an official briggs carb it could take months to get it from them. i bought a recoil starter directly from them and it took 4 months to get it....INSANE!! luckily I'm fairly handy and modified the broken amazon knockoff to work till the official one came in. this is defenitely not the time to break stuff..
Hmm got a snowblower with a briggs on it, built in 2011. Been sitting a while, likely gonna find the same thing. It never did run great new. Wonder if one of those high frequency parts cleaners would work.
I have bought 3 Chinese knockoffs, Autolite 2150, and 2 Carter BBDs. They were all junk, right out of the box; Autolite idled great but had some off idle accel pump issue I could never solve, car died instantly off idle. The BBDs worked well for a few days then progressively worsened until a week later were trash. I now rebuild all my original carbs with shaft bushings etc and have no more problems. And a spankin’ new Mopar knockoff 318 points style distributor I recently bought had a point gap spread from .016” to .024” because the points cam was ground off center. Pure good looking garbage.
Can you put the original parts into the copy to make it work. I have had to done that with sone of the ATV, small engine or mower type carbs i have bought
I was just looking at 2GCs... the one star reviews said enough to me about fuel-dumping failures... I am no expert but have seen cars on fire... to me, the parts industry needs regulation. We end up paying for this crap.
Would a Holley 2300 adapt to your Barracuda? As far as I know it's the only 2 barrel performance carb out there. I just put one on my '70 Cougar and it works excellent right out of the box. Not cheap but I bet you'll get s lot more use out of it than an Amazon copy.
What is the condition of the floats , also needle and seats? Kinda wondering if the floats will eventualy start sinking? Also the float needle seat is it coroaded also. Also interested in what procses you use to clean the corrosion.
Have had a cheap knockoff carb on my farm truck, 83 f350 with a crane and 351 Windsor, been two years and runs like a top, started right up and needed minimal adjustments, the vaccum pull off was crap and used another but otherwise I got lucky, I imagine these are a case by case basis
6:50 from my expierence I buy the chinese carbs and rebuild it with the good guts of a rebuild kit that was made in the usa. they run great after that and you don't have to worry about them.
What about the later "tin top" version? Fully adjustable accel pump with rubber plunger, normal vac AND adjustable mechanical lift of metering rods. Far superior to that early version, although late-late ones had lots of emissions crap.
If you had an otherwise good BBD that needed the throttle shaft rebushed, would one of these carbs at least have a decent throttle plate to swap onto an original carb?
Been running E10 since the 90s in all kinds of carburetors, including the SUs on my 66 Volvo. Tried a Chinese BBD didn't work out of the box. Float was so heavy that I had to set it almost on the bottom of the bowl to get the fuel level right. Ran it a year or so. Put an old Carter Competition AFB and 340 intake on the 318, after jet and rod changes the W250's gas mileage improved substantially. Dont buy a Chinese carb ! I'll have to pull that thing apart and see if it's corroded, been sitting a couple years now. The US carb companies knew metallurgy, the Chinese just melt down whatever is cheapest. If there is any metallurgy engineers in China, they're working for their military, not for the places selling knock-off crap on Amazon to Americans.
I’m running a Quadrajet on a 403 Olds in my 57 Buick. It’s actually 3 carbs put together. Anyway when I look for replacement carbs they are about the same price as an Edelbrock. What direction would you go? I’m not going to hold you accountable for my decision. Edelbrock or Chinese carburetor?
Been twisting wrenches for 40 years, i have NEVER "replaced" a STOCK carburetor on any car i was bringing back to life from the dead. Those old carbs can be cleaned refurbished reset and will work perfectly for YEARS. The crap carbs they make now to replace those vintage units are garbage. ...point is rebuild your old one and you will be far better off ...... thanks for another great video Tony 😊👍
Can confirm. Inherited a 71 Chevy C10, 250/3spd. Ol' Rochester Monojet still worked well enough to drive it after sitting for 20 years! Ran pig rich in the midrange and very cold natured but otherwise fine. I put a kit in it....metering rods were stuck from goo....cleaned it out, and boom. It's dailyable.
The worst carb was the Carter B & B on the slant 6, they did NOT feature reinforcing ribs dwn the sides, do up the screws and the top deformed like buggery, , I placed alloy tubes on the side to take the down force otherwise they either distorted under load or lacked proper seating if not tightened. and if you fitted a substitute carb you had to make sure you got the right one for either manual or auto trans, apart from the variation in auto choke setting you had to make sure you had a 28 thou needle in the Auto and a 22 thou in the manual, wondered why I got crap economy in my auto with a manual carb.
I've got an antique Farmall tractor that the original carb's top was badly warped and leaked gas. A used placement was around $300 several years ago. I bought a knock off replacement off of Amazon just for the body and put my original carb's parts in the knock off casings. The only thing that didn't fit was the fuel inlet fitting. It works great and I still use the old tractor haul things around the place and other light duties.
The issue is you had gutted the cheap unit when it should have just worked.
Did the exact same thing on my kawasaki ninja 250. I gutted the crappy amazon carb and put in all the oem keihin parts and it has been running great for 500 miles so far.
I've had decent luck finding fair used OEM carbs on eBay for Briggs engines.
That's because a Chinese knockoff might be suspect to make the same power.
Briggs plays games with throttle travel and jetting, that might be the only difference between a 23hp Briggs vs a 25hp Briggs ,so I'm pretty sure the knockoffs won't have close to the same specs I require.
I haven't tried a knockoff yet but I see it's hit or miss ,and miss is probably above 65%
🙂 neat, good to know that some of the parts are viable
Ya, this knock off stuff surely has a place. What else are you gonna do?
Also, living on a giant lake I have towed a lot of boats that failed to proceed. My first response is 'did you clean the pilot jets'. No, I just bought some new stuff from Amazon.
Tony back in 1980 to 84 I worked for acme auto in ct. I purchased new carbs for a slant 6 and a ford 170 cu in. I paid less than 75$ each back then and they were oems. I cannot believe that at that cost even adjusted to today that the US could not do it again if we just start to make something again.
MAGA.
$75 in 1980 is $286 in 2024. You can literally buy an OEM reman Holley 1945 carb for your Slant Six for less than $286 right now.
Problem is a lot of the people coming along today, born in America I mean are just to lazy, don't care or both to do it right.
As someone who grew up on Loony Toons I have no idea how people trust things from any company with named acme
Back then they were mass producing carbs by the millions for OEM use. Since 1986 there have been only fuel injection cars made. Making small numbers of carbs for the aftermarket is a lot more expensive than turning them out by the millions.
One thing that not too many people think about is all of the engineering/testing that went into those original parts (carbs/rods/pistons/valves/etc.).
The engineers had to figure out what metallurgy to use where crap like this either didn't happen or at least took years and years to happen! China?... not so much! They make a mold, make a copy, never worrying about longevity, function, etc.!! If they can take someone else's creation and make a mold of it, many times they will put it out on the market and even put the other company's name on the damned things!!!
I miss "Made in America" parts and products!!! Yes, they were more expensive, but most of the time, they were great parts/products!!
Yep! All true! When was the last time you saw a sticker on a Chinese product that read "Proudly Made In China"? That about says it all!
And they sell their crap to us and the good stuff- that they can make - for themselves. They’re our enemy.
Carburetors used to be made of zamak, a zinc based alloy that contained aluminum, copper and others. It is harder, stronger, less corrosion prone and less porous than cast aluminum, also much more expensive. Aluminum is really not as desirable a base material for carburetors no matter where they are made. Ethanol makes matters worse. Best to keep good zamak bodies if possible.
Good to know. I thought they felt and looked like zinc, but that seemed like a strange choice. Makes sense that it's a special alloy.
Great info. Thx
If I remember it right, mazak also was better for casting/machining precision.
I used to be a diecaster for a long time and we used to use Zamak 27 for some parts we were casting that were going to be subjected to moisture more than usual. One of the contracts we had with Johnson fishing reels those used ZA 27 for the spindle used to hold the fishing line on that was under the cover because it would get exposed to water from reeling in the line and they were designed this way to help keep corrosion down . The rest of the frame of the reel was made of aluminum 380 but those got tumbled then powder coated black . We had a contract with John Deere & I was casting rider mower decks that took a 60 pound pour of 360 aluminum & the reason why these were being made of 360 aluminum instead of 380 was because these mower decks once finished were being shipped to England because they get a lot of rain and fog that everything gets exposed to . The die casting machine that ran this huge mold had 750 ton clamping power & it was fully automated so no hand pouring a 60 pound shot plus it sprayed both sides of the dies except 1 area I had to manually spray at the same time the automatic sprayer was spaying and then it would blow air at the dies to get any excess die slick lubricant off which is a mixture of water and die slick that's used as a releasing agent so the part doesn't get stuck to the dies & helps any sliding cores from getting stuck in the part so they open & close by the packer pins . Once they are sprayed & blown off I would push the door closed button and the door would close & the dies close up and the laddel automatically pours the shot into the shot sleeve and the ram automatically pushes the molten aluminum into the dies and it sits closed by a timer for the amount of time needed for the part to solidify then the dies open up & the part can be pulled off of the cold side of the die that had the ejector pins in it . That process I had to pull the deck out by hand using special gloves so my hands wouldn't get burned . Once I looked the mower deck over for any swirls poor fill & defects or broken cores it got pushed on a roller line that had fans on both sides of it to cool the deck off enough that the person trimming the deck then they got stacked 3 high & then would go to machining to be machined then powder coated and eventually shipped out to JD . I casted parts for Moroso Arctic cat Polaris Toro Honda Harley Davidson Minn kota GM and a lot of military stuff like O jives slides and mine dummies that were used for training that couldn't have any porosity in the casting & had to weigh a certain amount and if not it had to be scrapped. We even made a small part for the new cars trucks coming out back then for what was new then the air bags we see in every car truck now and I also casted air plane magneto housings that were a insert job that had the magnets that had to be heated then inserted into the die then closed up and the shot poured so the magnets were part of the casting . Some of the Honda parts we were casting were made of Magnesium which is nasty stuff that if spilled can burn holes right through thick cement and the only way to put out a magnesium fire is to smother it from oxygen or it will keep burning . Finally got out of it after 15+ years & got back into working on cars at some shops that specialized in working on old cars muscle cars old trucks and 2 speed shops I worked at after . I had started out working on cars but at that time the pay wasn't very good & did the die casting thing for years because the pay was better & we would get extra bonus for making more parts per hour if you made over quota as long as the parts were good from inspection and were up to ISO 9002 at the time but eventually I left & went back to working at said shops because the pay was much better and not so hot or dangerous work & I ended up doing this for 30 years until I basically retired but still work on old cars at times for extra cash at times .
@@peteloomis8456 Good write-up. Thanks!
This is why I've been more interested in rebushing a worn throttle shaft on an original BBD , than tossing it and getting a Chinese replica . There's usually something not right with Chinese stuff , and I dont want to give them money if I can avoid it anyway.
I'm running dad's original BBD on the 66 Coronet 273. 207k miles and never needed to rebushed. Rebuilt it a bunch of times. Runs mint.
@@LongIslandMopars MY BBD is on my Dads old Valiant, he got it rebushed back in about 1987 , it must have needed to be done.
@@barrycuda3769 sometimes they need it. 😎
Without bushing the shaft they always suck vacuum, never get them to idle right.
@@kelsycunningham8452 yes, and easy to check. If sucking, then get some bush......ing😎
The Chinese carbs are made out of some cheap pot metal that reacts with the ethanol in the fuel . I have been through this with Honda 90 chinese carbs . They turn white inside in 2 months . I bought a Chinese carb for a snowblower last fall and it never worked . Rebuilt the original snd no problems . No more chinesium carbs.
The originals are "ZAMAC", zinc, aluminum, magnesium and copper, much better than low-grade aluminum because of the copper in the alloy.
If it truly the Case Uncle Tony's Garage I would love to see videos of him in Cuba Learning about how the Cubans keep there classic cars on the road with no parts support that would right up Tony's alley (pause) anyways another interesting video U.T.G.
Like that other show a few years back. Love how they had to go all MacGyver on stuff.❤
"Imitation is the sincerest form of flatulence"
😂 Nice
This comment stinks! 😅
@@1958Studebaker it was a gas writing it! 😅
Tshirt material 👍
😂
Good input. My son put an amazon carb on a new chainsaw that never ran well and it started first pull and ran great. He was impressed. My gut told me they had to be cutting corners. I think with the 2 stroke oil in the fuel they will be less likely to corrosion.
I saw a review of a cheap replacement carb for a riding mower on Amazon where the reviewer said he just replaces the carb once a year.
I literally just removed a 74’ bad from my 318la. It’s in fantastic condition. Since it’s oem I figured I’d keep it for now. Bought a rebuild kit thinking it was gonna be needed, I barely got a 1/4 of the way through and buttoned it all back up. Built to last.
I got several “rebuild” carburetors that didn’t work right out of the box. Jetted wrong, bad gaskets. The main thing is the throttle shaft gets worn, and needs to be rebushed. A lot if them aren’t and you have a vacuum leak that makes the engine run shitty.
207k miles on an original Carter 2bbl BBD in a 66 Coronet with a 273. Rebuilt it numerous times but never rebushed it. Runs perfectly.
Its just breaking inn!
@@anthonyking4387 I learned from my dad who was a depression-era child. He knew how to take care of equipment and get the mail out of it. Case in point, I'm now the caretaker of his one and only new car.
I have found high quality rebuilds with shaft bushings from Canada reasonably priced. Or I get a long drill and reamer, some bushings and do it myself.
I remember the days at swap meets when there were NOS BBDs in Mopar boxes for 20 bucks or less. Time flies.
I was kinda thinking that wouldn't work out well. I mean....when the float bowl vent tube flies out and almost gets sucked into the engine, that clues me in to further issues with that chinese crap! Thanks, Uncle Tony. Hope you saved someone some heartache. Take care, brother!
I've got an Amazon 40 IDF on my Volkswagen Bug. A single center mount. I've been pleased with it. I've got Weber and HPMX parts in it. And jets off eBay that also come from China.
I'd rather go to the junkyard and try to find a real Carter. Might get lucky and find some plus I get to spend a day at the yard
Nothing like a nice day wandering through a junkyard, never know what you will find.
You don't need to anodize the parts. A bottle of Alodine will take care of protecting the metal. Its made for aluminum, but will help on steel as well.
Thanks for the Alodine comment
Same , I just use the clear Alodine from my work paint shop, works well
I had to put a replacement marine fuel pump on a mercruiser 305. The original that failed, had clearance enough to swing a ratchet. The new one, did not. Same thing when a customer brought us a Chinese replacement carb that was giving him a hard time. the originals were machined properly for tools to fit, ease of maintenance. the Chinese replacement did not have these clearances. I had to do the ole wrench 1/16 a turn at a time trick. Miserable.
You don`t need to anodize that stuff. If it`s metal and you can heat it to 325 degrees in your oven, all you need is an airbrush and KG coating. Optimal coating for KG is about 0.0004" to 0.0005" thick. You do need to blast it lightly with maybe 320 grit abrasive, then degrease it ( I use 90% rubbing alcohol), hang it and spray with the air brush until covered. then bake in the oven for an hour at 325 degrees. There is no solvent that will remove it, you have to blast it off. No mixing with anything, straight out of the can, if you have any left in the airbrush, pour it back in the can. I use this on all of my projects, my intake manifolds to keep them from corroding, my precision rifles, motorcycle parts. Don`t even think about using that Cerakote junk, it`s two part and you waste what you don`t use. The optimal coating for Cerakote is around 0.0015", three times as thick. Remember, KG Coatings, right here in Texas, USA. Plus they have a bunch of colors, like if you wanted a blue carb!
Got a Q-jet with the light green Teflon coating gone off the shafts? You can spray this stuff on and bake it and it has Teflon and MolyD in it, self lubricating. You can also build it up until you get the fit you want, if it ain`t wore plumb out.
Which KG coating? there are many options.
After watching Scribbles almost injest a siphon tube...you said do your own qc.
So I did on a holley 2300 350cfm 2bbl from zon....it had paper gaskets...and accelator pump...jets with no numbers...spent money a Holley blue gasket set ....e85 rated accelator pump and some jets.....$40 saved headaches down the road...
Thanks for recommending doing own qc.
👍
Tony drives his stuff more than most which is why he runs regular 87 with ethanol. It evaporates fast vs old fuels, can have this type of corrosion. I’ve seen it many times on motorcycles and snowmobiles. But the difference is that the cheaper Chinese materials don’t handle it as well as the older original parts. I’m still going to give a china carb a try on our 63 Chevy with the 230 i6. But I also run premium with no ethanol because my car sits for weeks, sometimes months and I’ve never had corrosion issues with premium in everything I run it in. But what we are seeing here is things we shouldn’t have to worry about running today’s fuels, but now it does make a difference. And that’s IF all the internals are correct out of the box, because not every carb leaves the sweat shop the same. Just some things to consider.
Finally You are doing things. Like magic you are interesting again.
I have had good success with 6-cylinder & 4-cylinder engines using WEBER new carbs. I sure the jetting of a WEBBER would work on any 2-bbl equipped engine. My customer has a CJ7 and was ready to replace the engine. Carb was making it run badly, and the WEBER WOKE IT UP. Still 4-years later...she loves me.
Definitely work with that carb!! I'll bet it worked OK before that bolt shank got corroded. Opening that slot should get it working right. Maybe add a little 2 cycle oil to that car's fuel from now on...😁
Good luck with that, Tony. Hope to see the updates. I'd go eBaying for a 360 4bbl intake combo, or drop in Bottle Rocket's setup.
Dealing with similar "quality" on my 1st gen Dodge Cummins regarding injectors. I cheaped out and got some amazon specials which have proven to be a sh!t show...and I have access to a pop tester and adjustment shims, it's the Chynna nozzles that just won't pop/chatter properly...you get what you pay for.
Power driven diesel stage 2 injectors are awesome for a first gen. Lots of power with less smoke than stock and better fuel mileage. It’s the real deal.
Get another manifold and put an Edelbrock on it. I have to replace the accelerator pump on the genuine Weber carb on the 2.0L SOHC four cylinder in my 1972 Ford Pinto about once a year. Ethanol melts them.
Hoping the Chevron decision brings about an end to this damaging and useless fuel meddling.
Logically ethanol is stupid since we are burning food and wasting land to produce said ethanol. Realistically this is too far embedded and subsidized for farmers. I doubt it will go anywhere.
Been running a Chinese carb on the kids 318 wide block and it’s working. I have zero information on the carb. Came in a box that said made in china. Bolted it on and it worked lol
I threw 8-10 old Carters, Holleys and Thermoquads with associated parts away, maybe 15 years ago. I always kinda regretted it, but my garage is so full of tools and tires and motorcycles sometimes you just gave to purge.
5:46 i bet thats all the impurities in the "aluminum" thats reacting with the gasoline,
I recently bought a Chinese Q-jet for one of the 440's as a replacement for the old one that I tore its airhorn gasket. The cost of the new carburetor was barely twice the cost of a rebuilt kit to obtain the gasket. Sure, I kept the old carburetor. I will have a more experienced guy reassemble it. But the Chinese Q-jet is working just fine.
I’ve got a china Q-jet on a 360, no issues at all after 2 years
@@duncandmcgrath6290 Capitalism spoke! China wins.
@@duncandmcgrath6290 Two whole years? The carb in my Ramcharger is still working fine after 37 years.
Dude I admire your obsession With the Chinese carburetor. I've been down the same road they are either junk or amazing. I've experienced both been amazed 4 the price it's perfect looks good everything fits. Then experienced the absolute complete opposite. I have bought them just for upper and lower castings and bought rebuild kits for the originals and make 2 carbs out of One Plus a Extra Rebuild kit or 2.I still appreciate what you're trying to do. But I Run a shop that's for-profit the last few times I've had to address these problems on old carbureted cars where the customer doesn't care if it stays stock. I buy a bottom dollar cheap 4 barrel manifold and put it edlbrock 600 with electric choke . In this Day an age the ethanol fuel screws up every carburetor even just been sitting around for a 1 week or 2 I'm i'm sick of having your prime the The Down the vent tubes or spray carb or break clean to get the thing to start my 71 chevy unfortunately going to get a little electric funky Pump on toggle switch just for starting up. when I know it's gonna set for a while. I've always had a little 3/8 Lever handle ball valve to shut the fuel off. I'm going to start shutting that and let it run out of fuel. Then fuel the carb Through the vents with marine 2 stroke mix 50 to 1. I've been doing this on my generator for a few years haven't had to clean the Evaporated Ethanol white crusty Chunk stuff out for a while.
I decided to skip the authenticity aspect on my '83 Imperial. After all, to be truly authentic it'd be running the fuel injector anyway. Drilled a plate to fit the manifold and bolted on a new Holley 2300 wih electric choke. Since the FI stock intake manny didn't have a choke well, this made the 2300 even more right. I get the originality deal, but even if it wasn't this situation, I'd probably be doing it anyway. For me, its more about enjoying it now.
I've found a little Marvel mystery oil in each tank keeps these chineze beauty's carburating. Just a suggestion.
A good product is Carb Defender by Driven Products.
A classic case of Chinese mystery pot metal AKA Chinesium.
Probably has cancer containing waist materials in it too!!
You could take the good parts out of your old carburetor and put in the Chinese carburetor and make it work that way I would hate to do it but that would be one way to fix it
I’ve never gotten anything to run on an Amazon carb. Most the time they don’t even fit the application. Learned that lesson.
RUclips has some pretty simple instructionals on home anodizing.
I have a knockoff Holley 1904 1 barrel carb on my daily driver, a 79 Subaru with an 89 EA71S engine. It's mounted to a modified stock single carb intake for an EA71. The EA71S originally had a dual carb intake which is unobtainable, and the 1904 flows as much as two stock Hitachi carburetors. A good 1904 is hard to find today, and it's such a simple carburetor that even the knockoff is decent quality. No metering rods, simple power valve, plain piston accelerator pump. It's been running fine for 200,000 miles and takes a standard Holley jet. The inside of the bowl is spotless. But that's an older knockoff, I think it's around 6 or 7 years old. It's fairly heavy. Eventually it will get replaced with dual Chevy Vega Monojets directly over the intake ports on custom adapters (intake ports are shared between two cylinders). Vega monojets are still cheap and easily available new old stock. The jet hole can be rethreaded to take a Holley jet. That's the setup I ran on my previous 83 Subaru, dual Vega Monojets with an external thermostat housing. It seems to me like the smaller 1 barrel knockoff carbs at least a few years ago were better quality than the larger ones.
The last carb I rebuilt was on a snow blower in 2012. I went to the hardware store and got a kit and a governor spring and it has ran great since. I used to rebuild carbs and alternators in the old days but I don't even think they sell parts or kits to do that anymore so you kind of have to buy new. Diodes are probably still in an alternator but brushes are not a thing anymore. I think the last alternator may have been on a crane around 1996. They made it so easy to buy and replace no one has an original part left to work with. I always liked the GM plastic floats they knew would sink the second ethanol hit them even though they knew ethanol was gonna be required by law. They had to keep dealers working.
We keep this up, will be back to horse and buggy.
I'm one of those kooky Quadrajet guys, and with the exception of my V8 Studebaker Lark (Stromberg WW 2 barrel currently, but looking to upgrade to a correct Carter WCFB 4 barrel in the future), most of my experience is Q-Jets. I've only seen the Chinese Quadrajet clones in videos and at a distance in real life, but can't see them as much more than a carburetor shaped object... it's like they took parts from a number of different Q-jet models, cloned them out of some acceptable/passable materials and some cream cheese; then approximated or spitballed the rest. There was a guy on RUclips who went through all of the steps to make one of these C-Jets into a usable carburetor, which involved many modifications that included machining, changing jets and metering rods, using parts of other legit Quadrajets), and a significant amount of dyno time with wideband oxygen sensors. Symptoms initially were similar to yours, and he came to a very similar conclusion.
These are probably best relegated to shelf art or paperweight or doorstop duty, if there's any possibility of locating a usable OEM carb and/or piecing one together out of OE parts.
There used to be a Corvette guy that posted online every Qjet part number for every GM engine that ever used a Qjet in history with all relevant OEM specs for primary and secondary jets and rods. I used his resource and rebuilt many late 60s early 70s Qjets, shaft bushings and all, excellent results, greatest carburetor ever.
I know Chinese Pot Metal corrodes twice as fast using gas with ethanol than non ethanol gas. It takes less than 6 months for the Chinesium to break down and coke up everything. Even zink coating can't help a carb made of Chinesium. If you want Chinesium Carbs to last? You have to drain out all the gas and flush with Kroil before storage or winterizing.
Why didn't he just rebuild the Carter?
Made from pure 100% Chinesum metals.
Plating/alloy/tempering deficiencies. Before the epa arrived to hobble American industry [setting up the China dominance of today], we were on top regarding treatments and coatings. I recall a story from the 80's where they found & retrieved a ww2 plane from the depths of the pacific ocean and... barely a spot of corrosion - they had to hunt to find any..
The epa had a hand in it for surw, but the bean counters who decided cheaper materials and eventually labor put the nail in yhe coffin. Imo
Biggest factor in killing USA manufacturing and building the world dominance of Chinese manufacturing was and will forever be greed.
@@flinch622you can thank Nixon and the EPA for not having to breathe chromium-6 et al.
@adcoxrobert3786So I live in California which everyone seems to believe is a black hole of “over regulation” that makes any manufacturing impossible. Despite “over regulation”, California leads the nation in manufacturing output and employment. Manufacturing is also growing in California and it’s doing so at a faster pace than in any other state and has been for thirty years. And for a little perspective the US is the world’s second largest manufacturer, behind only China. What “over regulation” has done to California is to help keep manufacturers from pumping things like chromium-6 into the air. So, yes, there is such a thing as over regulation but the regulations you think are stifling output or growth aren’t actually the problem. If manufacturing is on the decline in your state it’s because of something other than regulations
I got a carb for a honda motor on a large industrial air compressor. Direct bolt on and works great ten years later. Dark grey and same weight as the original carb. Maybe got lucky there. Thanks uncle Tony.
i always appreciate the information you provide.
Thanks for the video UT, interesting as always.
Hey, is that the propane 383 sitting in that white car in the background? I'm still hoping you will get back to that sometime soon. Good luck with scribbles!
I’ve also used a couple Amazon carriers for small engines and while they do make them run, they’re not as great as the original carburetors. My chainsaw for example, runs decent, but it requires the choke and to be primed on a warm engine every time it’s shut down after 10 minutes because the check valves inside don’t hold the fuel in the carburetor.
Coincidentally, if you throw it in the back of your tractor or truck and go over a lot of bumps on a hot day, it will flood itself badly from the pressure in the gas tank because again, the carburetor kinda sucks compared to the original. Lol
Uncle Tony's Garage, nice content it was really good
Weird one. 351 Windsor when I got it the adjuster screws on the carb snapped off when I turned them. Not knowing any better I grabbed a new carb off of Amazon. Now I know which parts to swap from the old one. Yep I kept the broken one. Thank you Uncle Tony for saving me a bunch of trouble “down the road”🎉
I'm sure you're gonna make a video on that I would like to see it I totally appreciate you being a true mechanic and fixing and repairing mechanical equipment which is the definition of a mechanic. getting to the root cause of the problem instead of buying cheap s*** off eBay or Amazon. But I appreciate your due diligence that's what the automotive community is lacking these days. Sometimes you just gotta work with what you got. I'm a automotive mechanic By trade but I moonlight in the winter time in my local area when everybody's generator has the same problem it's all Gunked up with evaporated ethanol fuel and the white crumbninety 99% of the time I can take the bowl off a carb can clean blow out the jets clean everything out. Hunderd bucks each in my pocket every winter I got a line of generators out the door. So for a small engine guy you already know this money in your pocket.
Use Alodine on bare aluminum for corrosion resistance
Went through (2) Made in China fuel pumps in a few months that leaked oil where the top & bottom halves are crimped together. A carquest & delphi. Then bought a NOS 1992 AC Delco made in USA off of ebay from probably Western Auto or one of the old parts stores that went out of business. Guess what ? Zero leaks & still pumping 6+ psi after 3 years.
Two years ago I bought an Amazon knockoff Keihin carb for my cr125. Before installing I set the float and I keep the air screw in adjustment. So far it's been ok.Maybe because there is oil in the fuel it will help with todays gas?
I recently installed one of these because the cost was only a little bit more than a rebuild kit. So far no issues i guess once it starts to crap out ill use it for parts mainly the throttle shaft. The 2 carter bbds i had both had worn throttle shafts. Also from Australia we dont have ethanol in our standard fuel. E10 is an option.
Most all of the knock off carbs use a special alloy of Chinesium and Cheezium.
Hello Uncle Tony , thnx for this video , great to see differences up close !
A bit off topic , but wanted to ask how good are the Holley 4010 / 4011 carbs ? They were m9stly shunned by the 4150 crowd , but after looking at them , seem to hold many good concepts , etc..
Were they alright ? Thinking about using one in blo - thru appln. They have simplified fuel metering along w ann boosters . Wanted to enclose entire carb in a box like vortech has . Thanks for any info.
Another good intellectual jouney with Uncle Tony.
A few years ago I got a knock off 2 BBL Ford carby for the OL' Lady's F250. I couldn't be happier. But i do have humble sympathy for my fellow gearheads that are having problems.
Hi Tony been watching for a while now and just subscribed. I enjoy your videos, I started out in a Chrysler Plymouth dealership from 68-72 so I've always had a soft spot for the old MOPARS (currently doing a First Gen Hemi/46RH swap into an ex-drag car 69 Valiant).
Just wondering if the threads on the aftermarket carbs are metric or SAE and if the internals are close enough to interchange between an original and the aftermarket carb. If so even a totally junked out carb may be may be worth saving just for odds and ends parts.
that looks like corrosion from bad gas, are you sure you didn't get water in the gas or a batch of high ethanol gas? where I live they are increasing the amount of ethanol in gas lately, some gas pumps went from E5 (0 to 5%) to E10 (10% with a small tolerance), so if you got E5 you could be getting anywhere from ethanol free to 5% but with E10 it's always 10%. Some gas pumps luckily still have E5.
I have been using Chinese copies of Carter 2 barrel carbs on Packard straight 8s. Work just fine. We have 99 octane E5 gas here in England, normally a lot less than 5% ethanol, especially Exxon, and that might help. Suggestion: get a Chinese carb and a US overhaul kit, and swap out the parts. The kit costs more than the carb!
Uncle tony i have a question. I hear on motortrend forms about old carbed engines having fuel wash and oil contamination due to cold starts and issues with the chokes. Is this something to worry about, im planning on in the future doing a 383 dart 70 or a 360 with points and a edelbrock carb to start with. My personal opinion is people dont adjust there carburetors enough to begin with, so the fix would be just adjust the jets/drop rods for a cold start and idle stop screw and choke lever and when it warms up adjust it back? Idk i like efi but with modern aftermarket systems idk ive seen some expensive repairs and bs pertaining to that system.😊
i bought an Amazon carb for my 65 Coronet 318 poly about a year ago so far it has been reliable knock on wood
I would be interesting in trying to anodize that one at home. The problem is, I'm not sure if the thickness of oxide material will hurt the passages inside. To me, you'd want those passages coated, to prevent corrosion internally, however that may affect the calibration of the various ciruits.
Well the ethanol does Make alot of moisture so I can see why it's pitted Tony 🔧👍
Could the corrosion be due to water in the fuel?
2 1/2 years and 9k miles on my Autolite 2150 amazon knock off for my 360 FE 72 F250. Liked it so much I bought another one and put it away for the future. Not defending anyone but the Autolites literally have 4 moving parts so maybe thas he difference.
Good information to the ones with no knowledge, they still have complete rebuild kits , it’s just hard to find old school stuff
Info is dead on, just hard to find .
School em, lol 😆 we are not all dead yet
Keep up the good work!
Hope they don’t make any hip replacements.
Don't know if China was involved but I did read about failures and subsequent recall of replacement hip joints. That's gotta hurt!
Switch to ethanol-free gasoline (you can usually find it at gas stations near lakes or at marinas) and add Sta-Bil to every tank if it's going to sit for any period of time. That's what I figured out to stop the same problem on the carburetor on my Harbor Freight generator, I went through three carburetors (whole carburetors are cheaper than the rebuild kits) before I started doing that. It started on year old gasoline on the first pull when a tornado knocked out power to my town and my fiancee's mother needed power for her nebulizer and CPAP (and the window unit I took over to cool her room).
#1-"Could" the Chineese have a different fuel with lead or something like we had 30 years ago? Even if the metalurgic alliage is way cheaper lighter from a OEM Carter. They dont follow the same emission controls as we do. Maybe it makes the corrosion a little faster?
#2 "Would" adding a little bit of transmission oil or a cup of something could help prevent the corrosion? I didn't know about Zinc and corrosion before you, and some youtubers, mention the correlation with too much ZDDP additives.
I did buy a Amazon BBD for my motorhome 318 cause it was only 30$ more than the gaskets set. It runs fine but the screws are made of very soft aluminium mix and dont think it will like ajustements much. You can see the treads warping from turning them.
My favorite carbs!Thanks again! Love your videos
I also, bought a chinese knock off on Amazon. The one that was on the car , the body was totally cracked and i could not remove some screws, they were all stuck from corrosion. So i bought that one for the body on Amazon. Are they the 🤔same? can we work it out with new BBD rebuild kit?..its not installed yet, but should i leave it or redo it before i install it on the car?🤨
Tony, since these cheap carbs are all that is available easily for some, how about going through it and showing us how to make it last longer. Substitute stainless or brass parts you make yourself or source from McMasterCarr materials stock, etc., show how to set up anodizing to treat the carbs so they don't corrode, etc.
I've had GREAT luck with Amazon carbs. They've gotten much better in recent years.
Uncle Tony's Garage, awesome video bro
Even the amazon carb i bought for my 5hp Briggs was crap
I've had mixed results with power equipment parts from Amazon. It's a gamble every time. 😢
and if you want an official briggs carb it could take months to get it from them. i bought a recoil starter directly from them and it took 4 months to get it....INSANE!! luckily I'm fairly handy and modified the broken amazon knockoff to work till the official one came in.
this is defenitely not the time to break stuff..
But what about the Quadrajet?
Just finished watching a couple of your quadrajet video’s. Learned a lot, thanks.
Hmm got a snowblower with a briggs on it, built in 2011. Been sitting a while, likely gonna find the same thing. It never did run great new. Wonder if one of those high frequency parts cleaners would work.
I have bought 3 Chinese knockoffs, Autolite 2150, and 2 Carter BBDs. They were all junk, right out of the box; Autolite idled great but had some off idle accel pump issue I could never solve, car died instantly off idle. The BBDs worked well for a few days then progressively worsened until a week later were trash. I now rebuild all my original carbs with shaft bushings etc and have no more problems. And a spankin’ new Mopar knockoff 318 points style distributor I recently bought had a point gap spread from .016” to .024” because the points cam was ground off center. Pure good looking garbage.
Can you put the original parts into the copy to make it work. I have had to done that with sone of the ATV, small engine or mower type carbs i have bought
that leather on the chinese carb plunger might be make out of cat skin after their done using their WOK
I was just looking at 2GCs... the one star reviews said enough to me about fuel-dumping failures... I am no expert but have seen cars on fire... to me, the parts industry needs regulation. We end up paying for this crap.
Would a Holley 2300 adapt to your Barracuda? As far as I know it's the only 2 barrel performance carb out there. I just put one on my '70 Cougar and it works excellent right out of the box. Not cheap but I bet you'll get s lot more use out of it than an Amazon copy.
Plain aluminum with who knows what impurities Chinese metallurgy is whatever they find lying around on the floor or in the garbage.
Put a 4 barrel carb & manifold on. No more bbd troubles.
The right answer is a Ebelbrock or Carter AFB. Why waste time with a 2 barrel on a V8?
Someone in the U.S. needs to make a quality remanufacture kit for these and a few others as well.
Or we don't have much of a choice.
What is the condition of the floats , also needle and seats?
Kinda wondering if the floats will eventualy start sinking? Also the float needle seat is it coroaded also. Also interested in what procses you use to clean the corrosion.
Have had a cheap knockoff carb on my farm truck, 83 f350 with a crane and 351 Windsor, been two years and runs like a top, started right up and needed minimal adjustments, the vaccum pull off was crap and used another but otherwise I got lucky, I imagine these are a case by case basis
6:50 from my expierence I buy the chinese carbs and rebuild it with the good guts of a rebuild kit that was made in the usa. they run great after that and you don't have to worry about them.
Looks like some of it could be galvanic corrosion from steel screws in cheap aluminum. Use some green loctite when reassembling to help prevent that.
What about the later "tin top" version? Fully adjustable accel pump with rubber plunger, normal vac AND adjustable mechanical lift of metering rods. Far superior to that early version, although late-late ones had lots of emissions crap.
If you had an otherwise good BBD that needed the throttle shaft rebushed, would one of these carbs at least have a decent throttle plate to swap onto an original carb?
Been running E10 since the 90s in all kinds of carburetors, including the SUs on my 66 Volvo.
Tried a Chinese BBD didn't work out of the box. Float was so heavy that I had to set it almost on the bottom of the bowl to get the fuel level right. Ran it a year or so. Put an old Carter Competition AFB and 340 intake on the 318, after jet and rod changes the W250's gas mileage improved substantially.
Dont buy a Chinese carb !
I'll have to pull that thing apart and see if it's corroded, been sitting a couple years now.
The US carb companies knew metallurgy, the Chinese just melt down whatever is cheapest.
If there is any metallurgy engineers in China, they're working for their military, not for the places selling knock-off crap on Amazon to Americans.
I’m running a Quadrajet on a 403 Olds in my 57 Buick. It’s actually 3 carbs put together. Anyway when I look for replacement carbs they are about the same price as an Edelbrock. What direction would you go? I’m not going to hold you accountable for my decision. Edelbrock or Chinese carburetor?