I know this is an old thread. When you mention cutting round corner lines with the jig saw, the blade tends to slope out on the bottom of the cut and you have to come back later and take that off, by sanding, router, etc. Here’s a trick I learned quite by accident years ago. I hope it works for you. You’re jigsawing along on a straight line and you come to the round corner turn. Just as the blade enters the turn, stay on the line but using a bit of pressure, push the saw towards the outside of your cut while at the same time STAY on that line! When the scrap falls away, step back and look at your nice vertical cut you just made on that corner! :-) This takes a little practice - but not that much…. Practice on scrap a few times and let me know if this works for you too. Thanks for all the great videos! I’ve learned more from you than you’ll ever learn from this 75 year ol’ geezer! Take care Andy.
I'm a autobody technician of 25 years. Haven't had to use much fibergass over the year's ( thank God) but I'm in the middle of a 1988 grady white seafarer transom and stringers replacement. I've watched countless videos of yours and it has given me confidence to tackle my project. After pricing cosa board in Canada I quickly realized that marine grade plywood ain't so bad! Lol. Ridiculously priced. I'm used 1708 matting, total boat epoxy resin and alexseal roll and tip paint as the main materials. Thanks you so much for your expertise in your field of work. It has cleared up grey area's and terminology that didn't jive in autobody language.
I've been working with Coosa for years, and you nailed every aspect of it in such a short time! If it were half it's price, I'd never use plywood again. On ANYTHING. Good video!
Just a congratulations on your success here! I subscribed a few years back when you only had (I think) about 6k subs. Now you're over 100k and climbing! That says everything you need to know about whether or not you're doing the right things. Again, thanks for the great and informative content!
When I first started using Coosa I was disappointed with how well it held screws. I was removing a bunch of screws I had been using for clamping one day and noticed the screws were so hot after spinning out with my drill they would burn my hand. Blistering hot. So what I learned was this. Whether or not I was pre-drilling screw holes for hinges and deck hardware or just screwing blind for temporary clamping or whatever go fairly slow. Or hand tighten deck screws. Without the higher RPM the Coosa stays cool, and stable it will hold as well as or better plywood. High RPM will melt the Coosa and you'll have zero hold and frustration.
I had little to no knowledge on fiber-glassing and after watching for a year i have decided to rip my boat apart to the bare hull and rebuild everything out of coosa. im 23 and people are calling me a mad man haha but i actually enjoy it... i do wish i worked in a cooler weather like you tho, here in the Cayman Islands is HOT. also i got in a little argument over wanting to use "peanut butter" over 5200 for just making fillets/bonding bulk heads and stringers so then i can come in and and glass them in place, like what you did for the knees.
HI, just a couple of comments. 1) You might contact Whiteside to see what they recommend for tool speed and feed speed. sometimes a bigger chip load is better. 2)Seeing your videos reminds me of when my dad and I built a Glen L Odyssey back in the early '70s. All wood no glass.
I am making deck panels with a foam core and 3 layers of 1708 on each side and have been dealing with this exact issue! My jigsaw broke so I have been using my sawzall to cut off the excess fiberglass from the foam core panels and then I come back with the belt sander to bring the edge flush with the foam panels edge. I use cheap metal cutting bits - $7 for a pack of 5. they wear out but for a few $ each it is totally worth it as I am getting perfect results.
With carbide heat isn’t nearly as much of a concern. Not being critical but I am a tool maker and use carbide all the time we cut allot of haysite which is fiberglass boards similar to the coosa. Great videos be safe excited to see the finished product.
#1 advantage to Coosa is IT WILL NEVER ROT, which is extremely helpful in transom builds. Why production builders or rebuilders don't make the switch confuses me. The up cost for it is well warranted. Coosa says on their website that it is recommended to use carbide tools on their panels.... as well as any fiberglass. I really enjoyed your demo of the advantage of the Festool router collection system. Their is such a cult following with Festool that I tend not to believe in their superiority, but this segment showed real results. Thanks for that. BTW, it may be cheaper to hire those companies who custom cut Coosa for you....depending on your project.
I really appreciate your exploring updated materials and processes to verify if their performance, cost and effort justifies the transition. INTERESTING_ It does appear to be "less but different" effort to get a better quality finish that lasts longer and instills confidence. 😃 Time & money may end up being a plus in the end! 😃
Hey Mr. I work with fiberglass everyday and I work with that black coosa alot for our transom. You asked yourself if you can use that in the table saw? Answer to that question is yes. I do it daily. But the white stuff coosa diffenely make sure that stuff is glassed while cutting it in table saw. It likes to melt and when it get hot enough the blade may catch it and throw it back you.
In general i agree with a lot of things you say. Id say you are a pretty smart feller. The boggest thing i have found with coosa is the fact the urethane is more irritating than fiberglass laminate dust by far. It fractures in a way that is very damn sharp and can particularly can be irritating to the eyes. I was born into a custom fibergass shop so i have a deep appreciation for the fine points of irritating dusts. The glass adds some spice but its the urethane thay is really irritating. Also there is a reason fiberglass dust is classified as a nuisance but concrete dust is a health hazard, mostly partical size and chemical reactivity.. Urethanes are a lot more chemically problematic than fiberglass and polyester or fiberglass and vynil ester. Urethanes use amine type hardener like epoxy does. Amines are sensitizers and they can make ypu alergic to things that just happen to be in the environment when exposed. That's the reason i will bare hand laying up polyester resins and then clean up later with acetone. But i would never do that with epoxies or urethanes. The fiberglass gets the blame because its stiff and sharp but there is more scary stuff in wood and concrete dust.
Put your vacuum outside. Unless you have a HEPA filter, they work by filtering out the big bits and throwing the fine dust into the air. It is the fine dust which gets into your deep lung, but is invisible.
One question that came to mind when watching the video was: If you want to connect up Coosa to existing marine plywood structures - bulkheads, anchored furniture, floors, decks, etc..., are there any special considerations to be aware of? TN
Hi, I'm rebuilding a Sleekcraft SST, and I'm located near Milwaukee. Who did you get your coosa from? Having trouble finding a distributor that isnt' on the coast.
In addition to the carbide tipped blades shown in the video, Coosa can be cut quite nicely with grit edged jigsaw blades. I've used both carbide and diamond grit blades on it. Carbide grit is generally a little coarser than diamond so it cuts a bit quicker but not by much. Diamond stays sharp much longer so I think over the span of a large project, the diamond is actually a better choice. Neither is very expensive (prices have come way down in the last 10 years or so) and can be found at big box stores.
I have a 1958 Owen Speedship I'm working on. It needs a ton of glass work. I gave my own Restoration shop here in Texas but boats are not my expertise. There are several bullet holes in the hull of the boat. I have planned on repairing holes and reglassing the complete hull. I'm a big fan of your DYI videos and I was wanting your advise on how to go about fixing it and what products you recommend. Also I was wondering if it is advisable to remove upper from hull while I reglass the hull.
Have you ever tried the plastic honeycomb board before. Dont recall seeing a video of yours on it. Just curious about your thoughts on it for boat building.
Kevin Hornbuckle please don’t good quality ply, mod the ply with the paper veneers is an outstanding product. Birch ply imported from Norway I believe, used to make higher quality cabinet carcasses and drawer sides and bottoms is an excellent choice. 1/2” has 9 plus no voids or gaps at all, waterproof, I have a piece that is outdoors unfinished in the direct sunlight and all weather for 8 years. Surfaces are still in good shape no delamination I left apiece in a bucket of water for 5-6 months no delamination . My point being, unless your objective is building super light, using good building practices you can achieve a top rated out come using much less expensive materials just looked coosa board 4 x 8 sheet 1/2” $365 USD ply about $100 USD
US society scared to death of asbestos, but most have no concern for fiberglass...yet our bodies have no abilities to break down or remove either. Would recommend after a bunch of machining to give the shop a scrub down. We start with the areas most used, but 1 bucket per person per work day...wash until water is filthy (think functional meditation). Thanks for the great information and making the time to share. Keep up the great work & enjoy time with your family.
mobilemodo those plastic are amazingly durable, 47 years in the trades and still working( thirty years a grasshopper) started buying festoon after renting a grinder in the boat yard for a bottom job, combined with the vacuum it was amazing. I have several festoon machines now. Every one has surpassed my expectations. Wish I sprung for them years ago
So showing what I have found to work (and not work) without providing links to purchase or even mentioning where you could find the products is somehow an advertisement? You lost me :-/
I love Coosa board because water intrusion has no effect on it and it won’t rot like plywood or even marine grade plywood and it comes in different thicknesses and the factory will cut it to order even but it’s only made in one place I believe and it is a little pricey and it’s about half the weight of plywood which you have to consider on boats because removing to much weight can cause a rougher ride on the water or increase your speed a little I imagine lol
Andrew no harm in using a new advanced material- we'd still be riding around on horses if we didn't use automobiles, smile. On that note interesting engineering perspective regarding electric vehicles- the internal combustion engine could be a dinosaur in only 10 years. Coosa light years ahead- great product! Agreed found Festool dust collection to be remarkable too(speaking of light years ahead), PLUS thank you for your comments on safety!- during a recent friend's visit to have her pregnancy exam the 1st question asked: Doctor stared right at the husband and spoke, "Do you work with dangerous materials or dust? Because it can greatly affect the health of your newborn son!" Keep sharing your amazing knowledge & talent & happy 2022
Question: On a different RUclips channel, I watched a small deck core repair performed in the following manner: a) the top layer of fiberglass was cut away and set aside. b) the rotten wood core (small squares of plywood) was removed and the opening was ground down to the bottom layer of fiberglass. c) here is where it gets different - since he was at a boat yard, he went to the shared trash bin and fished out various pieces of cured fiberglass waste. He sanded each of these pieces down to raw fiberglass, and then used those pieces of sanded fiberglass as the replacement core, which he bedded into the patch area with thickened epoxy. d) he then replaced the top layer of fiberglass over thickened epoxy, allowed to cure, faired and primed. Basically the final result for that patch of deck is that it is now 100% fiberglass and epoxy. I don't think this would work for larger sections since it would be hard to get the surface shape right, but it did seem to work quite well for smaller square patches (2 foot x 2 foot square). I was just curious if there are any downsides to this patching method. The plus side is that it pretty much takes core rot out of the equation completely for that section of deck.
Great video. On the jigsaw blade comparison, the mild steel blades were both "down" cutting (as used to cut faced panels etc)whereas the Hitachi blade had upcutting teeth.Do you think this had any effect on their cut speed,or life? I've always found upcutting blades more effective, together with the percieved ability to control the jigsaw more easily.
Why do you use down push jig saw blades? They bind like hell and burn up faster from flex pressure while cutting. A wet sprayer will also stop blades from overheating and melting.
7:20 Discussing routing "... trying to decide if I even want to do this, or go down this rout" 7:50 "Speaking of routers, this was something I went round and round on ..." --- I see what you did there, Andy! ---
I bonded 3/4” and 1/2” coosa together for my gunwale project and need to do a 3/8” round corner for my fiberglass to conform, what bit should I use in my router
I watch many of your videos Andy. You're very, very good! Both in your work and in your communication skills! Dust Collection guru - Bill Pentz - To understand the risks to your health and learn the basics of PROPER dust collection. He was disabled by the poison of exotic wood dust. He's an engineer and created this website. I too got very sick from exotic wood. It's very, very serious. Also, when you're using harsh chemicals (like 2 part Urethane or even the 1 part...the only protection is a fresh air respirator system) they have a similar health effects. Andy, it's worth looking at for you. I bought a Clear Vue and it was well worth the money. You might want to consider it. Here is Bill's website; billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/
Questions: I am now confused on how to proceed with repairs below the water line. Boat shifted on trailer broke bunks loose now have damage to repair. Some gouges are 1 to 2 inches long and maybe 1/4 inch deep. Nothing through through the hull. 18.5 ft Bayliner. Thought I could built them up with fairing compound then Gel coat. Then I saw another video and you said not a good idea below water line. Epoxy would be better but I understand you can’t put gel coat on epoxy. What products can I Use to repair this. Thanks Bob
I have a router table with a built in dust collector shroud in the fence. It has a 2" adapter that I hook to my Oneida Air Systems cyclone dust collector. I use the bearing bits and mount the fence slightly behind. It is 99% dust free.
You need to use water when cutting with regular blades. Not like flowing water just keep the surface wet . your blades will last much longer. Also to keep the blade straight after you cut a few inches back the saw up to the start of the cut and it will straighten up
Again, love your videos and love your honesty. There is no other person or channel I mention involving boat repair, than yours. Keep up the great work.
I’ve worked with this product a lot and I can say many things about how it works. I’ve never used an edge tool for cutting though always a rim grit or abrasive cutting wheel
James Town Distributors stocks Sterling jigsaw blades especially made for fiberglass they are the best. They last five to eight times longer than any other blade whenit comes to be fiberglass
I’ve been dreading a fibreglass liner routering project in my v-berth because of the dust. I do so little of this type of work and couldn’t justify the expense of something like the router you demo’d but I’ll try to capture as much as I can with my shop vac and I’ll hang plastic around the work area to contain what can’t be captured. It will still create a mess, and yes I use a pretty decent respirator. I’m curious if you have a problem with your respirator sealing on your face with the beard. I need a clean shaven face to seal mine. Thanks for the tip on the blades and router bits. I’ve worn wood jig saw blades to nothing a couple of times. Now I know why.
I know this is an old thread. When you mention cutting round corner lines with the jig saw, the blade tends to slope out on the bottom of the cut and you have to come back later and take that off, by sanding, router, etc. Here’s a trick I learned quite by accident years ago. I hope it works for you. You’re jigsawing along on a straight line and you come to the round corner turn. Just as the blade enters the turn, stay on the line but using a bit of pressure, push the saw towards the outside of your cut while at the same time STAY on that line! When the scrap falls away, step back and look at your nice vertical cut you just made on that corner! :-) This takes a little practice - but not that much…. Practice on scrap a few times and let me know if this works for you too. Thanks for all the great videos! I’ve learned more from you than you’ll ever learn from this 75 year ol’ geezer! Take care Andy.
I'm a autobody technician of 25 years. Haven't had to use much fibergass over the year's ( thank God) but I'm in the middle of a 1988 grady white seafarer transom and stringers replacement. I've watched countless videos of yours and it has given me confidence to tackle my project. After pricing cosa board in Canada I quickly realized that marine grade plywood ain't so bad! Lol. Ridiculously priced. I'm used 1708 matting, total boat epoxy resin and alexseal roll and tip paint as the main materials. Thanks you so much for your expertise in your field of work. It has cleared up grey area's and terminology that didn't jive in autobody language.
I'm going to be doing the same in my 1990 Grady White. Hope it's going well.
I've been working with Coosa for years, and you nailed every aspect of it in such a short time!
If it were half it's price, I'd never use plywood again.
On ANYTHING.
Good video!
Nice to get info on tools that you find do the job right. But my ocd kept me focused on the electric outlet w/o a cover.
Dang, you guys catch everything lol ;-)!
@@boatworkstoday nah do what you gotado 😎😎😎😎
Just a congratulations on your success here! I subscribed a few years back when you only had (I think) about 6k subs. Now you're over 100k and climbing! That says everything you need to know about whether or not you're doing the right things. Again, thanks for the great and informative content!
When I first started using Coosa I was disappointed with how well it held screws. I was removing a bunch of screws I had been using for clamping one day and noticed the screws were so hot after spinning out with my drill they would burn my hand. Blistering hot. So what I learned was this. Whether or not I was pre-drilling screw holes for hinges and deck hardware or just screwing blind for temporary clamping or whatever go fairly slow. Or hand tighten deck screws. Without the higher RPM the Coosa stays cool, and stable it will hold as well as or better plywood. High RPM will melt the Coosa and you'll have zero hold and frustration.
Amazing detail Jordan- standing ovation.
Morning Andy. Great video, Thanks for all the information you provide. I'm in the same BOAT. :) Restoring a 23 Seacraft. Keep the inspiration coming.
I have a 20' SeaCraft I'll be starting on soon.
I had little to no knowledge on fiber-glassing and after watching for a year i have decided to rip my boat apart to the bare hull and rebuild everything out of coosa. im 23 and people are calling me a mad man haha but i actually enjoy it... i do wish i worked in a cooler weather like you tho, here in the Cayman Islands is HOT. also i got in a little argument over wanting to use "peanut butter" over 5200 for just making fillets/bonding bulk heads and stringers so then i can come in and and glass them in place, like what you did for the knees.
HI, just a couple of comments.
1) You might contact Whiteside to see what they recommend for tool speed and feed speed. sometimes a bigger chip load is better.
2)Seeing your videos reminds me of when my dad and I built a Glen L Odyssey back in the early '70s. All wood no glass.
Buy once, cry once holds true in most things.
I am making deck panels with a foam core and 3 layers of 1708 on each side and have been dealing with this exact issue! My jigsaw broke so I have been using my sawzall to cut off the excess fiberglass from the foam core panels and then I come back with the belt sander to bring the edge flush with the foam panels edge. I use cheap metal cutting bits - $7 for a pack of 5. they wear out but for a few $ each it is totally worth it as I am getting perfect results.
Super informative and a real time saver
With carbide heat isn’t nearly as much of a concern. Not being critical but I am a tool maker and use carbide all the time we cut allot of haysite which is fiberglass boards similar to the coosa. Great videos be safe excited to see the finished product.
Waterjet cutting is very helpful for your project.
#1 advantage to Coosa is IT WILL NEVER ROT, which is extremely helpful in transom builds. Why production builders or rebuilders don't make the switch confuses me. The up cost for it is well warranted. Coosa says on their website that it is recommended to use carbide tools on their panels.... as well as any fiberglass. I really enjoyed your demo of the advantage of the Festool router collection system. Their is such a cult following with Festool that I tend not to believe in their superiority, but this segment showed real results. Thanks for that. BTW, it may be cheaper to hire those companies who custom cut Coosa for you....depending on your project.
I really appreciate your exploring updated materials and processes to verify if their performance, cost and effort justifies the transition.
INTERESTING_ It does appear to be "less but different" effort to get a better quality finish that lasts longer and instills confidence. 😃 Time & money may end up being a plus in the end! 😃
Hey Mr. I work with fiberglass everyday and I work with that black coosa alot for our transom. You asked yourself if you can use that in the table saw? Answer to that question is yes. I do it daily. But the white stuff coosa diffenely make sure that stuff is glassed while cutting it in table saw. It likes to melt and when it get hot enough the blade may catch it and throw it back you.
In general i agree with a lot of things you say. Id say you are a pretty smart feller. The boggest thing i have found with coosa is the fact the urethane is more irritating than fiberglass laminate dust by far. It fractures in a way that is very damn sharp and can particularly can be irritating to the eyes. I was born into a custom fibergass shop so i have a deep appreciation for the fine points of irritating dusts. The glass adds some spice but its the urethane thay is really irritating.
Also there is a reason fiberglass dust is classified as a nuisance but concrete dust is a health hazard, mostly partical size and chemical reactivity..
Urethanes are a lot more chemically problematic than fiberglass and polyester or fiberglass and vynil ester. Urethanes use amine type hardener like epoxy does. Amines are sensitizers and they can make ypu alergic to things that just happen to be in the environment when exposed. That's the reason i will bare hand laying up polyester resins and then clean up later with acetone. But i would never do that with epoxies or urethanes.
The fiberglass gets the blame because its stiff and sharp but there is more scary stuff in wood and concrete dust.
Good info thanks... 🙏
nice video andy great explaining
I am subscribed and notification is on, thanks for the great videos
Put your vacuum outside. Unless you have a HEPA filter, they work by filtering out the big bits and throwing the fine dust into the air. It is the fine dust which gets into your deep lung, but is invisible.
Side-bending jigsaw blades is from pushing sideways on the jigsaw. Holding the jigsaw more toward the back helps a lot to prevent this issue.
Hardi Bord and Fiber board cutting blades are recommended.
Loving what you do. Just bought my first fiberglass boat, and this is where I come to for tips. Thank you!
All these years I thought I was the only one that ever had the angle cut problem with jig saws. 😂
Mike, are you still making videos. This one is one of the most recent RUclips has showed me.
very informative thanks
One question that came to mind when watching the video was: If you want to connect up Coosa to existing marine plywood structures - bulkheads, anchored furniture, floors, decks, etc..., are there any special considerations to be aware of? TN
Hi, I'm rebuilding a Sleekcraft SST, and I'm located near Milwaukee. Who did you get your coosa from? Having trouble finding a distributor that isnt' on the coast.
In addition to the carbide tipped blades shown in the video, Coosa can be cut quite nicely with grit edged jigsaw blades. I've used both carbide and diamond grit blades on it. Carbide grit is generally a little coarser than diamond so it cuts a bit quicker but not by much. Diamond stays sharp much longer so I think over the span of a large project, the diamond is actually a better choice. Neither is very expensive (prices have come way down in the last 10 years or so) and can be found at big box stores.
Festool do make great tools with dust extraction, no better brand for dust management I reckon
Do you know if COOSA 20lb board can be used for transoms?
I have a 1958 Owen Speedship I'm working on. It needs a ton of glass work. I gave my own Restoration shop here in Texas but boats are not my expertise. There are several bullet holes in the hull of the boat. I have planned on repairing holes and reglassing the complete hull. I'm a big fan of your DYI videos and I was wanting your advise on how to go about fixing it and what products you recommend. Also I was wondering if it is advisable to remove upper from hull while I reglass the hull.
Diamond embedded jigsaw blades for cutting tile cut Coosa like butter. You will never wear one out. Inexpensive as well.
Have you ever tried the plastic honeycomb board before. Dont recall seeing a video of yours on it. Just curious about your thoughts on it for boat building.
I have not yet, but might see that coming up ;-)
Mr. Andy Do think this material would be strong enough to use for Sailboat Bulkheads where the Chain plates attach?
I wonder if anyone has tried using the thin Hardie board as a core material to glass over. I don't know if it takes epoxy.
Kevin Hornbuckle please don’t good quality ply, mod the ply with the paper veneers is an outstanding product. Birch ply imported from Norway I believe, used to make higher quality cabinet carcasses and drawer sides and bottoms is an excellent choice. 1/2” has 9 plus no voids or gaps at all, waterproof, I have a piece that is outdoors unfinished in the direct sunlight and all weather for 8 years. Surfaces are still in good shape no delamination I left apiece in a bucket of water for 5-6 months no delamination . My point being, unless your objective is building super light, using good building practices you can achieve a top rated out come using much less expensive materials just looked coosa board 4 x 8 sheet 1/2” $365 USD ply about $100 USD
Coolant while cutting would help too
US society scared to death of asbestos, but most have no concern for fiberglass...yet our bodies have no abilities to break down or remove either. Would recommend after a bunch of machining to give the shop a scrub down. We start with the areas most used, but 1 bucket per person per work day...wash until water is filthy (think functional meditation).
Thanks for the great information and making the time to share. Keep up the great work & enjoy time with your family.
Very good point.
Hey have you ever tried divinycell foam? Do you think using that for stringer and bulkheads is a good idea?
I wonder how well a osculating tool would do
Those bits will sharpen up to like-new condition for not a lot of money
Carbide tipped router bits would do the same job but much cheaper!
Andy your now a safety Dan🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Router bits can be sharpened by the guy who sharpens your saw blades.
No what?
use metal jigsaw blades!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Festool plastics turn me off for the price.
mobilemodo those plastic are amazingly durable, 47 years in the trades and still working( thirty years a grasshopper) started buying festoon after renting a grinder in the boat yard for a bottom job, combined with the vacuum it was amazing. I have several festoon machines now. Every one has surpassed my expectations. Wish I sprung for them years ago
please buy (or make) a stool to sit on.
The swaying like you are at sea may have been a nice added touch but it made me a little sea sick.
lol!
Just short of 16 minutes of advertising, last weeks episode was good this weeks not.
So showing what I have found to work (and not work) without providing links to purchase or even mentioning where you could find the products is somehow an advertisement? You lost me :-/
I’ve learned so much from watching your channel thanks for all the videos.
Way to expensive ..marine plywood will last 15 years if prepped tight
I love Coosa board because water intrusion has no effect on it and it won’t rot like plywood or even marine grade plywood and it comes in different thicknesses and the factory will cut it to order even but it’s only made in one place I believe and it is a little pricey and it’s about half the weight of plywood which you have to consider on boats because removing to much weight can cause a rougher ride on the water or increase your speed a little I imagine lol
Diamond tile cutting round blades does endless cuts . It creates a lot of dust but its near perfect factory edge it produces is awesome 20 $
Agreed, they are perfect for G-10 which will destroy carbide in no time.
Hello Andy, coosa board is expensive, take a look at gator board, about half the price, same material, made in Hialeah, Florida, by poly-u-mac.
Andy, on your B camera, change to manual focus and set it to focus at one foot or so. The you can hold stuff up to it and it won't hunt.
Andrew no harm in using a new advanced material- we'd still be riding around on horses if we didn't use automobiles, smile. On that note interesting engineering perspective regarding electric vehicles- the internal combustion engine could be a dinosaur in only 10 years. Coosa light years ahead- great product! Agreed found Festool dust collection to be remarkable too(speaking of light years ahead), PLUS thank you for your comments on safety!- during a recent friend's visit to have her pregnancy exam the 1st question asked: Doctor stared right at the husband and spoke, "Do you work with dangerous materials or dust? Because it can greatly affect the health of your newborn son!"
Keep sharing your amazing knowledge & talent & happy 2022
Question: On a different RUclips channel, I watched a small deck core repair performed in the following manner: a) the top layer of fiberglass was cut away and set aside. b) the rotten wood core (small squares of plywood) was removed and the opening was ground down to the bottom layer of fiberglass. c) here is where it gets different - since he was at a boat yard, he went to the shared trash bin and fished out various pieces of cured fiberglass waste. He sanded each of these pieces down to raw fiberglass, and then used those pieces of sanded fiberglass as the replacement core, which he bedded into the patch area with thickened epoxy. d) he then replaced the top layer of fiberglass over thickened epoxy, allowed to cure, faired and primed. Basically the final result for that patch of deck is that it is now 100% fiberglass and epoxy. I don't think this would work for larger sections since it would be hard to get the surface shape right, but it did seem to work quite well for smaller square patches (2 foot x 2 foot square). I was just curious if there are any downsides to this patching method. The plus side is that it pretty much takes core rot out of the equation completely for that section of deck.
Yes! Helpful video! Thanks, I am working with the stuff now.
Great video. On the jigsaw blade comparison, the mild steel blades were both "down" cutting (as used to cut faced panels etc)whereas the Hitachi blade had upcutting teeth.Do you think this had any effect on their cut speed,or life? I've always found upcutting blades more effective, together with the percieved ability to control the jigsaw more easily.
Why do you use down push jig saw blades? They bind like hell and burn up faster from flex pressure while cutting. A wet sprayer will also stop blades from overheating and melting.
Ever tried a Remgrit jigsaw blade?
I’m thinking of using cosa board to replace my wood casting deck on my Jon boat, you think it would work out good?
7:20 Discussing routing "... trying to decide if I even want to do this, or go down this rout"
7:50 "Speaking of routers, this was something I went round and round on ..."
--- I see what you did there, Andy! ---
I bonded 3/4” and 1/2” coosa together for my gunwale project and need to do a 3/8” round corner for my fiberglass to conform, what bit should I use in my router
something with carbide if you'll be doing quite a bit of routing
Thank you.
I watch many of your videos Andy. You're very, very good! Both in your work and in your communication skills! Dust Collection guru - Bill Pentz - To understand the risks to your health and learn the basics of PROPER dust collection. He was disabled by the poison of exotic wood dust. He's an engineer and created this website. I too got very sick from exotic wood. It's very, very serious. Also, when you're using harsh chemicals (like 2 part Urethane or even the 1 part...the only protection is a fresh air respirator system) they have a similar health effects. Andy, it's worth looking at for you. I bought a Clear Vue and it was well worth the money. You might want to consider it. Here is Bill's website; billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/
Questions:
I am now confused on how to proceed with repairs below the water line. Boat shifted on trailer broke bunks loose now have damage to repair. Some gouges are 1 to 2 inches long and maybe 1/4 inch deep. Nothing through through the hull. 18.5 ft Bayliner. Thought I could built them up with fairing compound then Gel coat. Then I saw another video and you said not a good idea below water line. Epoxy would be better but I understand you can’t put gel coat on epoxy. What products can I Use to repair this. Thanks Bob
ANDY,
Have you used diamond blades? Like for cutting tile... it seems to work the same, but longer use of tools... just saying. Great job bud! 🍻
I have a router table with a built in dust collector shroud in the fence. It has a 2" adapter that I hook to my Oneida Air Systems cyclone dust collector. I use the bearing bits and mount the fence slightly behind. It is 99% dust free.
A Circular saw with a carbide finish blade will go for a long time. My buddy used one blade building a 16 x 40 Oyster barge from Cooza.
Does the manufacturer of the COOSA suggest any particular tools or techniques to facilitate tool longevity/ ease of use?
Nonono U are doin it wrooong ..
Say after AVE ” Focus U fuck!” That seems to improve the hardware by magnitudes
You need to use water when cutting with regular blades. Not like flowing water just keep the surface wet . your blades will last much longer. Also to keep the blade straight after you cut a few inches back the saw up to the start of the cut and it will straighten up
Again, love your videos and love your honesty. There is no other person or channel I mention involving boat repair, than yours. Keep up the great work.
I’ve worked with this product a lot and I can say many things about how it works. I’ve never used an edge tool for cutting though always a rim grit or abrasive cutting wheel
Just use masonry blades when cutting anything fiberglass.
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James Town Distributors stocks Sterling jigsaw blades especially made for fiberglass they are the best. They last five to eight times longer than any other blade whenit comes to be fiberglass
I did not know that! Thanks!
I’ve been dreading a fibreglass liner routering project in my v-berth because of the dust. I do so little of this type of work and couldn’t justify the expense of something like the router you demo’d but I’ll try to capture as much as I can with my shop vac and I’ll hang plastic around the work area to contain what can’t be captured. It will still create a mess, and yes I use a pretty decent respirator. I’m curious if you have a problem with your respirator sealing on your face with the beard. I need a clean shaven face to seal mine.
Thanks for the tip on the blades and router bits. I’ve worn wood jig saw blades to nothing a couple of times. Now I know why.
I still get a very good seal on the mask. maybe short hair makes a difference versus long?