I have a '81 brazilian beetle 1300 cc and I'm building a VW 1900 cc engine with eletronic injection to swap this beetle mine, I'm 76 years old. Congrats.
Austin, I'm really enjoying your videos. I live in Germantown and would like to hear from you. I am a VW gearhead and have built a 94mm X 69mm 1914cc for my VW trike project. Keep up the great content.
Hey dude! You're doing a good job. You placed the oil baffle under the generator/alternator stand incorrectly. It should have the vents facing down into the case and should be oriented like you're looking at the letter "C". This allows oil splash to hit the slanted baffle face and not get further up the neck of the stand. Keep going though, I'm loving the content!
There's a huge amount of end float on your crank. Why have you gone with longer cons that can cause problems with push rods, push rod tubes, valves, compression and possibly timing.
@@BeloshapkaAutoBuilds stock is 5.325 long. 5.400 rods #1254 would have been good enough. 5.500 is too long for a stock engine. Your exhaust system may not fit, because the engine is wider now, because of the added shims.
Are you absolutely sure that the driven assembly gel is good for the lifter faces and cam lobes and not just a standard assembly Lube? You better be absolutely sure because that looks nothing like regular cam lift your face break in paste and if it's not correct you will trash your cam and lifters
7:58 remember zero….zero silly-cone is required on your engine. I’m not you. And I think you’re doing a fine job. But…I’m not you, I am me. So, I am going to tell you what I did. Remember….I'm not you. I bought new sealing nuts….because, it’s what it had on it the first place. And used the brown Permatex. Mine doesn’t leak. Anything with silly-ha-ha will leak.
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle yeah..nothings cheap anymore. I guess I’m being an old curmudgeon. But it seems like to me, if he’s got money for the wrong connecting rods. He would have $20 for the correct oil pump nuts. Just saying.
11:20….ugg…why did you use longer ro……. Ok…ok… Look, follow the book, and you won’t have a problem. Don’t, and you will have to out engineer the Germans…..good luck. I’m done commenting.
Hi, I have been thinking about acquiring a 1971 Super Beetle and restoring it as my “final” retirement car. It as my first car and it only seems fitting. for it to be my last. Any idea how much it will cost? Thank you!
IMO… and I realize you didn’t ask. But going to give it here anyway. 71 super is rarish… but 67-69 are more so. Supers don’t bring as much money as 60s standards. But require equal parts and time. So… maybe find a different car to start on. When your grandkids inherit it. They will be happier. Oh… and 4 speed, no auto stick. Just my opinion. Have a nice day
I would start by trying to find the one you want there’s a whole lot of resell groups on Facebook. Then depending on how much work it needs will vary the price. The one I got I spent $350 BUT it would take a lot of work and money to fully restore it. I will do a price breakdown once I finish!
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I have a '81 brazilian beetle 1300 cc and I'm building a VW 1900 cc engine with eletronic injection to swap this beetle mine, I'm 76 years old. Congrats.
Austin, I'm really enjoying your videos. I live in Germantown and would like to hear from you. I am a VW gearhead and have built a 94mm X 69mm 1914cc for my VW trike project. Keep up the great content.
Enjoying the videos. I have the same car. Have not started on mine yet until I finish up a 72 Karmann Ghia.
I truly love your editing and story telling! Keep it up!
Thank you sir!
Hey dude! You're doing a good job. You placed the oil baffle under the generator/alternator stand incorrectly. It should have the vents facing down into the case and should be oriented like you're looking at the letter "C". This allows oil splash to hit the slanted baffle face and not get further up the neck of the stand. Keep going though, I'm loving the content!
Your attention to detail and organization are fantastic! Great video! Cant wait to see the bug running and driving.
Insta-subbed, I just love beetle restorations
Don’t forget the “Hoover” bit for your oil cooler.
excellent!!!!!
keep us watching
Install a good vacuum advance distributor, it will drive much better.
SO much better. The overuse of the 009 over the decades drives me insane! A 70s fad that never died
Thanks!
Thank you so much!!!
loving these vids first time i put my engine together it wouldnt spin at all bent crank sadly
good video!
No sé porque siguen usando distribuidor de platino y condensador! 😬
Great Video! How did you fix the clearance issue?
I will be getting new connecting rods
There's a huge amount of end float on your crank.
Why have you gone with longer cons that can cause problems with push rods, push rod tubes, valves, compression and possibly timing.
I didn’t think about the exhaust! Not too late to make it right!
@@BeloshapkaAutoBuilds
inlet ports and engine tin work, go back to original your making way to much work for a DIYer
You don't wear gloves when cleaning those parts???
What the CB part # for the connecting rods?
1253. They are actually performance rods not stock. I did not realize that
@@BeloshapkaAutoBuilds stock is 5.325 long. 5.400 rods #1254 would have been good enough. 5.500 is too long for a stock engine. Your exhaust system may not fit, because the engine is wider now, because of the added shims.
Are you absolutely sure that the driven assembly gel is good for the lifter faces and cam lobes and not just a standard assembly Lube? You better be absolutely sure because that looks nothing like regular cam lift your face break in paste and if it's not correct you will trash your cam and lifters
7:58 remember zero….zero silly-cone is required on your engine. I’m not you. And I think you’re doing a fine job. But…I’m not you, I am me. So, I am going to tell you what I did.
Remember….I'm not you.
I bought new sealing nuts….because, it’s what it had on it the first place. And used the brown Permatex. Mine doesn’t leak. Anything with silly-ha-ha will leak.
The 8mm oil pump sealing nuts, are not cheap hardware anymore.🙁
Have any parts for sale?
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle yeah..nothings cheap anymore. I guess I’m being an old curmudgeon. But it seems like to me, if he’s got money for the wrong connecting rods. He would have $20 for the correct oil pump nuts. Just saying.
@@BeloshapkaAutoBuilds Plenty of vw parts for sale on samba. It where I sell mine.
I stopped using permatex aviation because the new formula stuff sucks! I've been rolling on Yamabond 4 and it works absolutely awesome
I’ve seen worse
11:20….ugg…why did you use longer ro…….
Ok…ok…
Look, follow the book, and you won’t have a problem. Don’t, and you will have to out engineer the Germans…..good luck.
I’m done commenting.
Hi, I have been thinking about acquiring a 1971 Super Beetle and restoring it as my “final” retirement car. It as my first car and it only seems fitting. for it to be my last. Any idea how much it will cost? Thank you!
IMO… and I realize you didn’t ask. But going to give it here anyway. 71 super is rarish… but 67-69 are more so.
Supers don’t bring as much money as 60s standards.
But require equal parts and time.
So… maybe find a different car to start on. When your grandkids inherit it. They will be happier. Oh… and 4 speed, no auto stick. Just my opinion. Have a nice day
I would start by trying to find the one you want there’s a whole lot of resell groups on Facebook. Then depending on how much work it needs will vary the price. The one I got I spent $350 BUT it would take a lot of work and money to fully restore it. I will do a price breakdown once I finish!
@@BeloshapkaAutoBuilds you got a much nicer unit that I did. I spent $150 but of course everything except the title was missing
@@losebjughashvili8465