This is so cool. Thanks John for reaching out to Jeff & allowing him to shoot at your place, along a/ Taylor & his Company for showing us such an awesome “Tool”. Some might think it’s a bit much on the money side, but when you start to get into concrete work, pulling permits, & all the paperwork headaches that can follow; well worth the 200-300 per post they are asking, imo. Gotta say, any company that can assist with doing the permit work & filing w/ city, township, county, etc...to speed things up for you is really nice; cuz no worker likes standing around waiting for the “go ahead” 😉 Can’t wait to see what other new, interesting & fascinating videos you bring us next Jeff. Cheers✌🏼
Good video Jeff. I had a house addition built 8 years ago (in Ottawa) and used helical piles. Much easier and no mess. The addition has not moved and no cracks which means it is as solid as concrete piles. Best way to go unless you want a basement. One thing to mention is that the engineer has the professional responsibility; the stamp. Thanks.
Wow. Thanks for that one. I built my deck 25 years ago. I was 41 and my son was 17 and I rented an auger thinking the two of us could handle it. The first of 7 holes we hit a large rock that spun my son and me around and almost broke my arm. I took the auger back and called a post hole guy and he broke three shear pins that day on 7 holes. This was totally awesome and to see a sharp young man doing a skilled trade like that was cool. Thanks PS I lived in Ottawa from 1980 until 1994. I am a professional musician and I was in the Central Band of the Canadian Forces for those 14 years. Cheers and thanks Robin Kitchener On
I always love when "power tools / toys" can be incorporated into a project to speed up and simplify things. This pretty much assures that the pile(s) shouldn't settle unevenly creating problems. Wow, love it!
@@SubtlyAggressive Yes, there needs to be some sort of connection, though it may not be for uplift purposes. I don't believe there's a load combination that includes uplift for a deck in the IBC. The Engineer of Record (licensed engineer signing and sealing the design calcs, drawings, etc.) should specify what is to be used for the connection. It may be job specific, as Blood of Gaea pointed out, or the manufacturer may have "approved" or go-to connection options, which were reviewed and signed off on by an engineer. My experience is in the Telecommunications field, specifically communication tower reinforcement. We use these to strengthen the tower's foundation(s).
I hear this a lot..... We save a lot of time ... In China we can build a high Rise building in 6 month traditional could take us a year. Now Italy isn't alone now , China has a Leaning Tower of Pisa.. Take your time... What is your rush ??? is it the money. Because the owner didn't want to pay you properly.... Find other way where you can rush ...Like a paint job or sheetrock job where you can rush and dont care ( Contractor Built Pricing) .. This is an actual structure. I seen contractor rush on tiling bathrooms... Bumpy and wavy. No one complained...still got sold !!
Home RenoVision DIY you asks very good questions, cost is important to some of us when looking at a project. I never knew of this technique that has been around for decades.
Hey Jeff, FYI maximum speed for a Kubota BX series on High gear is 13.5 Km/h, but that is not what is important with this "tool", it's all you can do with it...and yes there is a standard attachment on the 3 points hitch to dig holes...but when you are doing all the landscape around your house, this is the main tool to do the job, and that is exactly what I am doing these days!!! I have a BX series Kubota...the best tool ever!
Recently used them for a grade (sleeper) beam for a bridge approach section in Nebraska. Much easier than driving H or pipe piling! I've seen a lot as a state inspector and the Helical pile is by far my favorite piling.
This is awesome. The only thing I would do differently is to spray the cut pipe with cold galvanized spray. The cutting exposes non galvanized steel and will rust.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I don't understand. I have been in a steel mill and seen steel being galvanized. When it's hot-dipped, it is run through a bath of molten zinc. It can also be electro-galvanized, which again puts zinc on the outside. When the metal is cut, steel is exposed which can corrode. I have never heard of "solid galvanized" metal and I have googled and checked several wikipedia articles to be sure.
Galvanizing is a zinc coating, but I have seen galv-bar that you can rub on heated steel to coat it. The galv-bar is so soft that you can bend it with your hands.
Details left out. Helical Piles were designed for Marine applications (lighthouses and buoy markers). It has been used for foundation stabilization and repair. For wet soil (ie waterfront or near a body of water) it's amazingly effective when integrated into a foundation due to sand and clay soil content. Always get an engineer to do the preliminary work for home foundations and repairs first, then have the contractor bid and include in contract if they are plotting the locations or that is the responsibility of the home owner.
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it, but I was able to find several references in the US under the search for "Helical Piers for Decks" in google. Just an FYI for those looking into it more.
Once you cut the top of the post however, you leave an exposed steel (un-galvanized) cross section. Now I understand you put the beam bracket with some sort of integrated washer, but the water will still find its way, and possibly corrode the end of the post at the cut. No?
Mat, it looks like you and a couple other people in this comments section hit the nail on the head with this. "Galvanized" means zinc coated steel in industry. The manufacturer's response of it being solid galvanized doesn't make any sense unless they are saying it's made of zinc. Natcent corrosion resistant steels (Stainless) will be corrosion resistant when cut but cost a lot more than galvanized. Either they are doing something to the ends and consider it proprietary or it is indeed a weak point.
WOW Thank you for highlighting this amazing post-hold service! . . . And I love the Great Advice at end of the video: (1) "DIY' sometimes means make a phone call. . . and (2) Don't dig yourself a hole that you can't get out of. . . Must keep that in mind!
this kinda reminds me of diamond piers. both allow creating a secure footing without needing to excavate. this system looks a bit more versatile for working around various different types of projects and soil types and whatnot, while diamond piers seem a bit easier to do if you're trying to DIY a project since all it requires is a shovel to remove a scoop or two of dirt so that the bottom of the block is in the soil and a sledgehammer to drive in the rods.
I would think the freeze line would be deeper in Canada and I would assume it would have to be deeper if that deck was to house excessive weight (hot tub or something of that sort) or if the deck is the foundation for a 3 season room. Note I say all that sitting in Pennsylvania USA so I have no first hand knowledge of Canadian building codes, just thinking it through logically.
there is a minimum of 4' that he must reach. and then he goes as deep as needed to get the torque reading. There is also the added "skin friction " on the pipe the deeper it goes to assist in getting that torque.
Huh, that's a really reasonable price per post compared to me renting all the tools to do it my self and wont be half as solid. I'll have to keep this comp in mind for my new house.
I am building a second floor extension but the helical piles and posts were done by a contractor. Some of the 6x6 posts aren't seated perfectly in the saddles - they overhang by up to an inch or more. Could this present a problem? They haven't been inspected yet.
Would this work in sandy soil, like at a beach? You mentioned using it for an addition, so I assume it would be good for a larger outbuilding structure. Great technology.
No ..it will not work on a beach !!! Think about it...Metal and beach..... Have you even seen what salt water air does to iron or steel. You might as well use a water hose garden for wiring the house....what's wrong with the picture...why you think they use wood piling !!!
I checked and they are only available in north eastern Canada. If I was building a house extension it's definitely cost effective and sounds like a great way to go. However, I'm not so certain about a deck though. For the amount of weight a deck needs to support, I'd just stick to digging my own post holes and filling a concrete form which is very inexpensive.
where we live the code has changed. we can;t just dig a hole we need to make it 3' wide and install a bigfoot base and then the sono tube. makes a heck of a mess of the lawn and is way too much digging for the average person.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I understand Jeff. Gotta love gov't code regulations! Where I live the code for a deck post hole is 42" depth with a 12" diameter for a 4x4 or 14" diameter for a 6x6. I guess that's why Pro Post only exists in north eastern Canada. If there was a code need for them to be here I'd venture to guess they would then expand into the States.
How does it deal with sheets of solid ledge below ground? I've had excavators much larger than his backhoe try unsuccessfully to break it up and get it out...
The way it was connected as shown in the video is probably all that's done. It's steady enough for framing to go in, and as the deck is put together, the weight of it will hold those saddle brackets in place.
Looks like it is anchored by gravity. With the weight of the deck on it, I don't think it's going to move. Might be different in areas that are earthquake prone, or have crazy high wind issues.
in zones where you need to be attached to the post there is a quick modification that can be done to make the a permanent fix. In Ontario we don't have that requirement
I know its unrelated but I want to build a 10x10 shed in my yard and was wondering what I should use for a foundation? I dont want to put concrete as it would cost too much. I was thinking deck blocks and 2x6s?
Depends on whether there's a frost line where you're building. That might work, but you'd need to be sure to use ground-contact rated pressure treated wood for the floor/subframe plus you'd need to buy anchors (you can get small ones that screw into the ground like the helical piles in this video from Lowe's for under $100). By the time you buy these two things to build the floor/subframe, you're looking at a similar price to concrete. If there's no frost line, you could set the outside posts on top of concrete footers with a fence post bracket and just have a bare earth floor. Don't set wall posts directly into concrete as they'll rot easily. Be sure to use ground contact rated pressure treated lumber for the bottom 1ft or so of the wall.
@@afh7689 I'm talking about the bricks he uses for decking. With the pea gravel underneath to level it off. Wouldnt that be enough just to prevent if from sinking? I havent had snow in 4 Christmas' so I'm not too worried about the frostline haha
@@nickthomas9271 The mud line is a concern as well.. Our soil in AZ is clay, and if I put blocks over that and it rained, the blocks would, even on a bed of gravel, sink at odd angles. Concrete is easy and cheap to do yourself. Your call, but that would be my advice. And @youtubaholic has it right: Any wood you get within a foot of the ground will rot, attract termites, or both.
@@jeffnewcomb601 My dogs dug under the 4x4 base of my shed and it started to collapse. After disassembly, digging and jacking I poured concrete footers. My advise is to use concrete from the get go. It's easier to do the job right the first time
As a professional I have been using screw in piles for 3 years now. When I price a deck that is my support, no options. It is equal or less then the pricing for concrete piers but what I love about them is the guarantee that they will take and hold the weight. That point right there is my main sales pitch for the use of piles for my decks, the next benefits are no concrete cure times, no dirt to dispose of and they can be built on right away ( as mentioned in your video). Two years ago I did a roof line over a deck that was supported by piles. One of the piles that was going to taking the most load then the rest didn't get it's proper reading after it was almost sunk in, so an extension was added and they reached the proper reading. So if I did supported everything the old fashion way I would of dug down four feet, placed a 24" wide bigfoot base and a 10 or 12" sonotube on that and filled with concrete. It would of been on a hope and a prier that that would of been enough to hold the weight, and in a few years I might of had a call back because things were sinking but because I went with screw in piers I know I will never have that call.
As a add on .... Do you know that most contractor that build a deck the right way. Contractors won't have to go back do any work but a yearly inspection. Most of it is using concrete and not Piering. That's like saying I had to replace a 16 gauge wiring for a home and add a 12 gauge cause it burned out a section of a wire.
In the telephone lineman world this is what we use for anchors to back up the down guys. So if it will hold up copper cables I'm sure it will hold up a deck
Hope you see this post . I need your help. I am building a deck in the uk . I’m a woman and I e been inspired by you to try it on my own. The back support is running at an angle of about20 degrees over 5 metres (16 foot ) ish ... I’m building a retaining facade in wood 6 x1 on those posts and the deck supports are running off the back support front to back. The front of the deck is square. So the back posts are not 90’ to the front. They follow the angle of the back wall (running out at 20’) so on my very left post (next to an existing fence) I’ve had to angle the back of the hoist hung off the front of the post so that it will be parallel to the fence and I’ll be able face the front of the deck at 90’ to the fence. Making the front square with the back running away with a faced wood wall. QUESTION. How would you recommend I attach the very left joist to the far left post. 1.. cut a wedge of 2x4 to fill the gap between the post and the joist so that the hoist runs parallel to the fence and lines up with the square front of the deck or 2. Plane the post ( pressure treated) away when’re the joist meets the post and retreat with water repellant Cuprinol (uk) or 3. Something else... I can take a photo of it would help ... sorry for long explanation and hope I’ve explained it well enough for you to understand my predicament. Please please help ... I’m in the uk in wales so it rains a lot but the ground is solid and well prepared ... 🙏👍
Is the rock excavation included in the cost of the piers or is that additional labor? I would think there would have to be some extra fees for extension or excavation. Time is not free in business lol
I had 3 piles priced out for my small deck from a similar more local company. I wish it were $200/post. I was quoted near $1600 for the job. Pro Post needs to be near the KW region.
SE Michigan here. Being quoted $500/helical pier for standard 2-7/8" dia x 7ft length, basic 14x20 rectangular deck. It's like the contractor doesn't want the job. Shouldn't be more than $250 per. Makes me want to startup my own business!
I wonder how it would work in the limestone/sandstone rock fields of Eastern Oklahoma. I'm thinking not. When you talk to pros about digging post holes here, they have an "in case we have to dynomite" clause in the contract.
That is a really neat idea! Not sure how much I'd trust galvanized coatings though, especially under these conditions. I have examples from tin roofs to nails and bolts, none of it held up! Also, I can't imagine these pilings are very good for lateral shear resistance by comparison to the typical concrete pilings. I would imagine a structure built on-top of these steel pilings would move sideways pretty easily over time. Likely in the direction of the greatest average wind force. I enjoyed the video though, thanks for the show and tell. Cheers 🍻
Depends on the equipment your local contractors would be using. Existing gate could be temporarily (or permanently) widened to allow for equipment if need-be, which should be included in your quote.
I’ve got a sad townhome property from the late 1980 in Oakville which I inherited. There are a bunch of small but common repairs which need attention. Curious who to contact?
I wonder (and somehow doubt) whether this technology could work in alluvial soils with high water tables and accelerating subsidence rates, such as in New Orleans.
I first saw this tech on one of Mike Holmes renovation videos... Very cool. And it appears there are a few haters in the comments this time around but I suppose to be expected these days. Regardless, good info Jeff and Taylor.
You answered it yourself... they go in between the houses. Do you mean if they dont have enough room? They have proprietary technology to shrink themselves down to a smaller size then return to regular size when they get to where they want to be. Unfortunately, it sometimes doesnt work and I have seen many machines that are still there as they could not get the shrinking process to work after the job and have had to abandon the equipment. #shedNoTearForThe LostHelicalPileTractors
@@schommer75 Notice how he didn't answer this question within a year. It's because you can't. There is no actual study on this. It's has not been proven yet.
OOf that rock looked 4 feet down... Probably could have just done a concrete pier at that point. Digging all that dirt out must have weakened the pile to any lateral movement. That scene kind of scared me away from helical piles.
This is so cool. Thanks John for reaching out to Jeff & allowing him to shoot at your place, along a/ Taylor & his Company for showing us such an awesome “Tool”. Some might think it’s a bit much on the money side, but when you start to get into concrete work, pulling permits, & all the paperwork headaches that can follow; well worth the 200-300 per post they are asking, imo. Gotta say, any company that can assist with doing the permit work & filing w/ city, township, county, etc...to speed things up for you is really nice; cuz no worker likes standing around waiting for the “go ahead” 😉
Can’t wait to see what other new, interesting & fascinating videos you bring us next Jeff.
Cheers✌🏼
Good video Jeff. I had a house addition built 8 years ago (in Ottawa) and used helical piles. Much easier and no mess. The addition has not moved and no cracks which means it is as solid as concrete piles. Best way to go unless you want a basement. One thing to mention is that the engineer has the professional responsibility; the stamp. Thanks.
Good stuff!
Wow. Thanks for that one. I built my deck 25 years ago. I was 41 and my son was 17 and I rented an auger thinking the two of us could handle it. The first of 7 holes we hit a large rock that spun my son and me around and almost broke my arm. I took the auger back and called a post hole guy and he broke three shear pins that day on 7 holes.
This was totally awesome and to see a sharp young man doing a skilled trade like that was cool. Thanks
PS I lived in Ottawa from 1980 until 1994. I am a professional musician and I was in the Central Band of the Canadian Forces for those 14 years.
Cheers and thanks Robin Kitchener On
I always love when "power tools / toys" can be incorporated into a project to speed up and simplify things.
This pretty much assures that the pile(s) shouldn't settle unevenly creating problems.
Wow, love it!
Glad you liked it!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY anyone found a US equivalent?
I'm very familiar with this technology. It's the same as my pineapple corer.
🤣🤣
its a big screw.
The oil patch has been using those type of anchors for 4-5 decades. He is lying to sell his product. weak.
I'm a Structural Engineer and we use these all the time, they are great and save a lot of time.
14:09 - 14:19 Doesn't the saddle have to be secured to the post so that there's no uplift potential?
@@SubtlyAggressive That would depend on the job. But in that case, it could generally be done by putting in a bolt or welding, nothing fancy.
I am as well and am with you on that statement. we use EBS Geotechnical a lot for swampy areas.
@@SubtlyAggressive Yes, there needs to be some sort of connection, though it may not be for uplift purposes. I don't believe there's a load combination that includes uplift for a deck in the IBC. The Engineer of Record (licensed engineer signing and sealing the design calcs, drawings, etc.) should specify what is to be used for the connection. It may be job specific, as Blood of Gaea pointed out, or the manufacturer may have "approved" or go-to connection options, which were reviewed and signed off on by an engineer. My experience is in the Telecommunications field, specifically communication tower reinforcement. We use these to strengthen the tower's foundation(s).
I hear this a lot..... We save a lot of time ... In China we can build a high Rise building in 6 month traditional could take us a year. Now Italy isn't alone now , China has a Leaning Tower of Pisa.. Take your time... What is your rush ??? is it the money. Because the owner didn't want to pay you properly.... Find other way where you can rush ...Like a paint job or sheetrock job where you can rush and dont care ( Contractor Built Pricing) .. This is an actual structure. I seen contractor rush on tiling bathrooms... Bumpy and wavy. No one complained...still got sold !!
Home RenoVision DIY
you asks very good questions, cost is important to some of us when looking at a project. I never knew of this technique that has been around for decades.
Well said!
Hey Jeff, FYI maximum speed for a Kubota BX series on High gear is 13.5 Km/h, but that is not what is important with this "tool", it's all you can do with it...and yes there is a standard attachment on the 3 points hitch to dig holes...but when you are doing all the landscape around your house, this is the main tool to do the job, and that is exactly what I am doing these days!!! I have a BX series Kubota...the best tool ever!
That was awesome from the machine to the guys working it an of course your commentary was really superb. Good job guys.
Thank you very much! Love getting information out there that will help. Cheers!
Thanks again Jeff for a really cool informative video. Is great to see that Taylor can walk the walk and talk the torque
Our pleasure! It was nice to meet someone who knows their business so well at a reasonably young age. Cheers!
Recently used them for a grade (sleeper) beam for a bridge approach section in Nebraska. Much easier than driving H or pipe piling! I've seen a lot as a state inspector and the Helical pile is by far my favorite piling.
Good video Jeff. There is a guy on RUclips named Jordan Smith and he built an entire house on these helical piles. Cool video. Thanks.
Ron
14:09 - 14:19 Doesn't the saddle have to be secured to the post so that there's no uplift potential?
This is awesome. The only thing I would do differently is to spray the cut pipe with cold galvanized spray. The cutting exposes non galvanized steel and will rust.
The only problem with your approach is that the pipe is already solid galvanized. it is not coated. Cheers!
You wouldn't be able to torque solid galvanized.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I don't understand. I have been in a steel mill and seen steel being galvanized. When it's hot-dipped, it is run through a bath of molten zinc. It can also be electro-galvanized, which again puts zinc on the outside. When the metal is cut, steel is exposed which can corrode. I have never heard of "solid galvanized" metal and I have googled and checked several wikipedia articles to be sure.
Galvanizing is a zinc coating, but I have seen galv-bar that you can rub on heated steel to coat it. The galv-bar is so soft that you can bend it with your hands.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Looks like you've found the holy grail in unicorn steel...
Details left out. Helical Piles were designed for Marine applications (lighthouses and buoy markers). It has been used for foundation stabilization and repair. For wet soil (ie waterfront or near a body of water) it's amazingly effective when integrated into a foundation due to sand and clay soil content. Always get an engineer to do the preliminary work for home foundations and repairs first, then have the contractor bid and include in contract if they are plotting the locations or that is the responsibility of the home owner.
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it, but I was able to find several references in the US under the search for "Helical Piers for Decks" in google. Just an FYI for those looking into it more.
Helical piers are used all the time in commercial construction. The only difference is size of the rig and the coils.
Once you cut the top of the post however, you leave an exposed steel (un-galvanized) cross section. Now I understand you put the beam bracket with some sort of integrated washer, but the water will still find its way, and possibly corrode the end of the post at the cut. No?
Hi Mat, the pipe is solid galvanized material. Cheers!
Mat, it looks like you and a couple other people in this comments section hit the nail on the head with this. "Galvanized" means zinc coated steel in industry. The manufacturer's response of it being solid galvanized doesn't make any sense unless they are saying it's made of zinc. Natcent corrosion resistant steels (Stainless) will be corrosion resistant when cut but cost a lot more than galvanized. Either they are doing something to the ends and consider it proprietary or it is indeed a weak point.
I am looking at these for a horizontal wood fence would it work high wind area so need the strength
Was thinking about using this type of tech to support a shipping container house idea, good to see it's available in Ontario 😄
WOW Thank you for highlighting this amazing post-hold service! . . . And I love the Great Advice at end of the video: (1) "DIY' sometimes means make a phone call. . . and (2) Don't dig yourself a hole that you can't get out of. . . Must keep that in mind!
Glad it was helpful!
this kinda reminds me of diamond piers. both allow creating a secure footing without needing to excavate. this system looks a bit more versatile for working around various different types of projects and soil types and whatnot, while diamond piers seem a bit easier to do if you're trying to DIY a project since all it requires is a shovel to remove a scoop or two of dirt so that the bottom of the block is in the soil and a sledgehammer to drive in the rods.
im loving it, this video is a juicer.
What a great machine BIG 👍 up from London England
It sure is!
What if someone wanted to build a small fishing deck over a pond what is the best footing system?
Another great video Jeff!
Hope they have this in the US
they do for sure!
Looks like a giant tent stake.
If a deep foundation needed for a deck?
I would think the freeze line would be deeper in Canada and I would assume it would have to be deeper if that deck was to house excessive weight (hot tub or something of that sort) or if the deck is the foundation for a 3 season room. Note I say all that sitting in Pennsylvania USA so I have no first hand knowledge of Canadian building codes, just thinking it through logically.
there is a minimum of 4' that he must reach. and then he goes as deep as needed to get the torque reading. There is also the added "skin friction " on the pipe the deeper it goes to assist in getting that torque.
Huh, that's a really reasonable price per post compared to me renting all the tools to do it my self and wont be half as solid. I'll have to keep this comp in mind for my new house.
Wow, that is an epic piece of equipment...
I am building a second floor extension but the helical piles and posts were done by a contractor. Some of the 6x6 posts aren't seated perfectly in the saddles - they overhang by up to an inch or more. Could this present a problem? They haven't been inspected yet.
That is a very good way to put in footings and posts.
Would this work in sandy soil, like at a beach? You mentioned using it for an addition, so I assume it would be good for a larger outbuilding structure. Great technology.
Yes it would work in a sandy area. Sand is great for helical piles
No ..it will not work on a beach !!! Think about it...Metal and beach..... Have you even seen what salt water air does to iron or steel. You might as well use a water hose garden for wiring the house....what's wrong with the picture...why you think they use wood piling !!!
I checked and they are only available in north eastern Canada. If I was building a house extension it's definitely cost effective and sounds like a great way to go. However, I'm not so certain about a deck though. For the amount of weight a deck needs to support, I'd just stick to digging my own post holes and filling a concrete form which is very inexpensive.
where we live the code has changed. we can;t just dig a hole we need to make it 3' wide and install a bigfoot base and then the sono tube. makes a heck of a mess of the lawn and is way too much digging for the average person.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I understand Jeff. Gotta love gov't code regulations! Where I live the code for a deck post hole is 42" depth with a 12" diameter for a 4x4 or 14" diameter for a 6x6. I guess that's why Pro Post only exists in north eastern Canada. If there was a code need for them to be here I'd venture to guess they would then expand into the States.
How does it deal with sheets of solid ledge below ground? I've had excavators much larger than his backhoe try unsuccessfully to break it up and get it out...
How does the saddle bracket work. Does it get welded on to the post?
The way it was connected as shown in the video is probably all that's done. It's steady enough for framing to go in, and as the deck is put together, the weight of it will hold those saddle brackets in place.
Looks like it is anchored by gravity.
With the weight of the deck on it, I don't think it's going to move.
Might be different in areas that are earthquake prone, or have crazy high wind issues.
@decidedisciple67 Deck blocks work the same way I'm pretty sure. I've seen those used plenty.
in zones where you need to be attached to the post there is a quick modification that can be done to make the a permanent fix. In Ontario we don't have that requirement
Where's your USA dealer?!?! Nice product!
Inquire with your local foundation repair service...
Yeah we need a dealer down here
I know its unrelated but I want to build a 10x10 shed in my yard and was wondering what I should use for a foundation? I dont want to put concrete as it would cost too much. I was thinking deck blocks and 2x6s?
Depends on whether there's a frost line where you're building. That might work, but you'd need to be sure to use ground-contact rated pressure treated wood for the floor/subframe plus you'd need to buy anchors (you can get small ones that screw into the ground like the helical piles in this video from Lowe's for under $100). By the time you buy these two things to build the floor/subframe, you're looking at a similar price to concrete. If there's no frost line, you could set the outside posts on top of concrete footers with a fence post bracket and just have a bare earth floor. Don't set wall posts directly into concrete as they'll rot easily. Be sure to use ground contact rated pressure treated lumber for the bottom 1ft or so of the wall.
@@afh7689 I'm talking about the bricks he uses for decking. With the pea gravel underneath to level it off. Wouldnt that be enough just to prevent if from sinking? I havent had snow in 4 Christmas' so I'm not too worried about the frostline haha
@@nickthomas9271 The mud line is a concern as well.. Our soil in AZ is clay, and if I put blocks over that and it rained, the blocks would, even on a bed of gravel, sink at odd angles. Concrete is easy and cheap to do yourself. Your call, but that would be my advice. And @youtubaholic has it right: Any wood you get within a foot of the ground will rot, attract termites, or both.
@@jeffnewcomb601 My dogs dug under the 4x4 base of my shed and it started to collapse. After disassembly, digging and jacking I poured concrete footers. My advise is to use concrete from the get go. It's easier to do the job right the first time
As a professional I have been using screw in piles for 3 years now. When I price a deck that is my support, no options. It is equal or less then the pricing for concrete piers but what I love about them is the guarantee that they will take and hold the weight. That point right there is my main sales pitch for the use of piles for my decks, the next benefits are no concrete cure times, no dirt to dispose of and they can be built on right away ( as mentioned in your video).
Two years ago I did a roof line over a deck that was supported by piles. One of the piles that was going to taking the most load then the rest didn't get it's proper reading after it was almost sunk in, so an extension was added and they reached the proper reading. So if I did supported everything the old fashion way I would of dug down four feet, placed a 24" wide bigfoot base and a 10 or 12" sonotube on that and filled with concrete. It would of been on a hope and a prier that that would of been enough to hold the weight, and in a few years I might of had a call back because things were sinking but because I went with screw in piers I know I will never have that call.
As a add on .... Do you know that most contractor that build a deck the right way. Contractors won't have to go back do any work but a yearly inspection. Most of it is using concrete and not Piering. That's like saying I had to replace a 16 gauge wiring for a home and add a 12 gauge cause it burned out a section of a wire.
In the telephone lineman world this is what we use for anchors to back up the down guys. So if it will hold up copper cables I'm sure it will hold up a deck
Hope you see this post . I need your help. I am building a deck in the uk . I’m a woman and I e been inspired by you to try it on my own. The back support is running at an angle of about20 degrees over 5 metres (16 foot ) ish ... I’m building a retaining facade in wood 6 x1 on those posts and the deck supports are running off the back support front to back. The front of the deck is square. So the back posts are not 90’ to the front. They follow the angle of the back wall (running out at 20’) so on my very left post (next to an existing fence) I’ve had to angle the back of the hoist hung off the front of the post so that it will be parallel to the fence and I’ll be able face the front of the deck at 90’ to the fence. Making the front square with the back running away with a faced wood wall. QUESTION. How would you recommend I attach the very left joist to the far left post. 1.. cut a wedge of 2x4 to fill the gap between the post and the joist so that the hoist runs parallel to the fence and lines up with the square front of the deck or 2. Plane the post ( pressure treated) away when’re the joist meets the post and retreat with water repellant Cuprinol (uk) or 3. Something else... I can take a photo of it would help ... sorry for long explanation and hope I’ve explained it well enough for you to understand my predicament. Please please help ... I’m in the uk in wales so it rains a lot but the ground is solid and well prepared ... 🙏👍
Is the rock excavation included in the cost of the piers or is that additional labor? I would think there would have to be some extra fees for extension or excavation. Time is not free in business lol
That's awesome! As always, I enjoyed watching your videos. Im trying to get some ideas for furure home renovations. Thanks! From, Saratoga, New York.
I had 3 piles priced out for my small deck from a similar more local company. I wish it were $200/post. I was quoted near $1600 for the job. Pro Post needs to be near the KW region.
What a very cool product, do you require the same number of footings as a traditional setup or does this allow less for less footings?
the number of footings is determined by your drawings and the engineer you pay to draw them up.
Now thats badass
There is just no down side! Cheers!
SE Michigan here. Being quoted $500/helical pier for standard 2-7/8" dia x 7ft length, basic 14x20 rectangular deck. It's like the contractor doesn't want the job. Shouldn't be more than $250 per. Makes me want to startup my own business!
I wonder how it would work in the limestone/sandstone rock fields of Eastern Oklahoma. I'm thinking not. When you talk to pros about digging post holes here, they have an "in case we have to dynomite" clause in the contract.
You know you're a fan when you tap the Like button before actually watching the video! I hope Jeff makes a boat dock one day...
That is a really neat idea! Not sure how much I'd trust galvanized coatings though, especially under these conditions. I have examples from tin roofs to nails and bolts, none of it held up! Also, I can't imagine these pilings are very good for lateral shear resistance by comparison to the typical concrete pilings. I would imagine a structure built on-top of these steel pilings would move sideways pretty easily over time. Likely in the direction of the greatest average wind force.
I enjoyed the video though, thanks for the show and tell.
Cheers 🍻
I like the music. Who is the band?
What's the minimum gate entrance to the backyard that you need for the machinery? My backyard is only accessible through one gate. (York Region)
Depends on the equipment your local contractors would be using. Existing gate could be temporarily (or permanently) widened to allow for equipment if need-be, which should be included in your quote.
This is great. I really like new technologies like this.
I’ve got a sad townhome property from the late 1980 in Oakville which I inherited. There are a bunch of small but common repairs which need attention. Curious who to contact?
Awesome tech 🤩
Thanks 🤗 Cheers Mary!
Absolutely fascinating!
Love your content man. Fantastic.
Great video! Great job! You even got my good side! Lol
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers John, it was a pleasure filming at your house. Cheers to the Air Force and Thank You For your service!
I wonder (and somehow doubt) whether this technology could work in alluvial soils with high water tables and accelerating subsidence rates, such as in New Orleans.
Amazing Idea !
And for small cabin???
That is awesome technology.... wow...
🧡Wow! Just wow.
Is this available in the US?
Not by this company but yes there are many helical pile install companies around. Cheers!
George...Payne Building Movers ...New Hampshire.
How does he know where the center of the post is when he digs the big hole for the rock
GPS Google maps
Measures off the house and/string lines
Nice wish I had this guy in MN for pond and lake footings
That’s very cool!
does this actually meet code in New York, regardless of soil conditions?
yes. it is approved everywhere as far as I Know!
I first saw this tech on one of Mike Holmes renovation videos... Very cool. And it appears there are a few haters in the comments this time around but I suppose to be expected these days. Regardless, good info Jeff and Taylor.
Yeah, I saw that too. One of the Holmes and Holmes episodes. Think it was the country house they redid.
@@tay13666 I think it was the same dual episode but for the 2nd story deck on the lake front property... Either way, it was definitely innovative!
Anyone know if this is available in New Brunswick?
Perhaps not his company but something similar for sure. Cheers to NB
What do they do when they have to get to a backyard and have to go in between houses?
You answered it yourself... they go in between the houses. Do you mean if they dont have enough room? They have proprietary technology to shrink themselves down to a smaller size then return to regular size when they get to where they want to be. Unfortunately, it sometimes doesnt work and I have seen many machines that are still there as they could not get the shrinking process to work after the job and have had to abandon the equipment. #shedNoTearForThe LostHelicalPileTractors
Use a smaller machine with stand alone power pack to run the hydraulics
@@ScottFillmore Ya, with only 3 feet
Can you make a video on how to make a skylight 😃
Those are some cool beans
great idea!!!
That is really clever stuff!!
Locates?
Super cool tech! USA franchise?
available I think. Cheers!
Very Nice!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Is anybody doing those types of post/footings on Vancouver Island?
Postech Victoria
What stops uplift on the deck?
the blade under 2 tons of dirt.And below the frost line.
Home RenoVision DIY but the post anchor just sits on the pipe? How is the anchor attached?
@@schommer75 Notice how he didn't answer this question within a year. It's because you can't. There is no actual study on this. It's has not been proven yet.
Very cool.
Mike Holmes had the same process on his show a while ago.
That is so cool.
Cheers Ignacio!
What is the name of the company? I live in Seabeck WA, is there anyone near me?
It's like a gigantic dog lead stake. That's awesome!
saves a lot of time and money. Cheers!
Why not continue drilling another 12 inches rather than cut off the excess tubing?
Great ideas
Thank you! 😊
$200/post lmao! I was quoted $10k to put in about 5. That’s living in an expensive-ish city for you.
How about when you hit a septic tank. Hmmm
Knew someone who had them, painful as all hell!
Second and I hope he says “out” a lot
I really like the Canadian pronunciation of “out”
get oat of here
kk P 🤣
I'm not Canadian, but when I was in my late teens, Mom would ask where I was going and my typical response was, "O-T-E....What does that spell?"
Steve J. 🤣 it spells Canadian “out”
OOf that rock looked 4 feet down... Probably could have just done a concrete pier at that point. Digging all that dirt out must have weakened the pile to any lateral movement. That scene kind of scared me away from helical piles.
I wonder if this is the same technology used to build houses on hillsides.
can be. Cheers!
Impressive
Real digging starts at 10:00
Still waiting on how to onstall soffit lights all around the house or soffit lights on garage door opening!
Looking to build a deck this year, called a helical pile company and it’s more like 500$ a post 😢
Do you have a company in the United States?
no but this tech is available there.
A rock breaker bar is faster than an auger here in Texas.
Tractor is capable of ludicrous speed
This technique is not 23 years old! These piles have been used since the 1830s. There is a lighthouse near me constructed of helical piles in 1851.
In 1833, Alexander Mitchell, a blind Civil Engineer from Ireland, won the Telford Medal for his invention, of the Helical Pile.
That tech had been around since the 1800s invention of an Irish engineer that was blind!