You are my absolute favorite resource for opinioned painting information. I like your presentation of information, explanation of reason, and knowledge based on experience. You speak well, your professional, and can back yourself up with amazing work. I wish you had more viewers and followers, it is totally “their” loss. I look forward to every video as well as Instagram posts.
Jennifer Tucker Thank you so much, that is so nice of you to take the time to leave this comment - it’s so rewarding to hear such positive things. I’m glad you enjoy my videos and feel free to pass me along to anyone that you that would also! 😀
Thank you for all of the reviews. You have helped me sooo much. Please stay safe in these crazy times. While we shelter in place, we are painting the living room furniture. Total newbies, having a blast doing it. ☺
Just found your video an I'm very impressed not only with the products but also how you use em.im getting ready to do my cabinets with jel-stain general finishes wish me luck lol...anyway I just wanted to say you did a great job an hope to chat with you in your upcoming videos.....again thank you just subscribed like to chat more with that fusion product more but it can wait take care
You should try building with gloss and using satin as your final coat. It'll give you more depth/clarity of finish and keep your preferred sheen on top.
I live in a very hot, dry climate and am having issues with streaking on dark painted furniture. I think it’s just too hot for my topcoats. Any advice? And thank you for sharing all your expertise! I’m looking forward to signing up for your class.
Yes its setting up too fast. Unfortunately unless you are in a cooler climate that is going to happen - you can add extender to your topcoat which will help with the open time of the product - but if it is just too hot - you are going to have that issue. If possible bring inside to topcoat or do first thing the am or late at night when temps drop
What would you use if you were doing a flat or matte top coat and also what would be ok to use as a top coat say in a bathroom for a shelf.thank you, love your videos!
So matte and flat are not very durable - the flattening agents in them make them less of a work horse of a top coat. I would suggest doing two coats of semi gloss and then finishing with one coat of matte for the look and still getting the durability needed. I love General finishes high performance top coat - thank you so much! 😀
I prefer Lilly moon paint topcoat & minwax polyacrylic - GF has just gotten so high in cost and I do not use oil based products any longer - I have really converted to water based products for the most part
Thank you for sharing your expertise!! After watching many of your videos i finally went out today and purchased Annie Sloan Chicago Grey to do a full size bedroom set for my granddaughter. Bed, dresser, mirror and 2 night stands. Two questions...what brush would you recommend for the smoothest application of the chalk paint for a beginner? #2 - for top coat which do you think is easiest and most durable for a 1st timer for sealer? The general finish or the wax? I am really wanting a satin finish. Thank you 😊
Hi. Your so welcome. I personally like and use cling on brushes, they are one of the best for providing a smooth shed free finish. I also like to use a water mister with this paint to help get a smooth even finish and allow the paint to level nicely. I have used wax in the past, but my topcoat of choice go all of my project is general finished high performance top coat in satin. It works beautifully over Annie. I wait until the next day or so after my final paint coat to top coat though to avoid any pulling of the fresh paint.
Love this. I’m trying to redo my dining set and hutch and trying to research everything before I start. However my furniture says it’s Solid wood construction with Pine hardwood and Birch veneer so I’m really struggling on what to do, my top of my table is very scratched and has always been very easy to damage. I was wanting to restain if from the oak color to a dark walnut. I’m wondering if I should strip it or sand bc if the veneer. Any ideas would be so helpful!!!
Momof3blessings FaithHope&Love So you can sand veneer, just start less aggressively with the sandpaper. I would start at 100 grit, then 120, 150 & finish with 180. I sand veneer all the time, you just have to be mindful not to burn through. If you strip, you will still have to sand after the stripper is removed, less sanding but you will still need to sand smooth to accept stain. I have a video on here showing that process. If your apprehensive to just go the sanding route, then try stripper. I’m not a huge fan of chemical strippers but go check out the recent video I did on it, might help you decide!
Born in a Barn Boutique also would you suggest a gel stain from general finishes or another brand? Those seem to be a great thing according to videos but a bit pricier then normal stains? Also do you think a pint of the gel stain from general finishes would be enough for a table top and the very top of my hutch?
Momof3blessings FaithHope&Love so I use GF stains mostly. Their water based and gel stains are awesome. The only other brand I like is Varathane One Hour oil based stains. They are more cost effective, if that’s a factor for you, I would go that direction. I have a video on my favorite stains. Yes a pint should be enough, pine and veneer take stain really well.
Do you ever use wax over a painted furniture piece? How often do you rewax your cabinets? I assume your cabinets were done with General finishes paint as it is one of your go to paints? I also assume they haven't chipped much over the 6 yrs?
No I rarely use wax anymore. Unless I’m using for a look with black or dark wax. I have never re-waxed them. I should have , but never did and they have held up amazing. I have no chips at all. No I did my cabinets before I ever painted furniture and knew nothing about GF. 😀 I used Annie Sloan and it was 7 years ago
I just got the Earlex HV5500 and hope to use it to apply General Finishes High Performance Semigloss on 30's vintage radio cabinets. I might use it for Arm-R-Seal as well but plan to try the water-based topcoat first. Which needle size would you recommend?
You know the standard 2mm needle works just fine for topcoat, I use it all the time, just make sure you adjust your spray pattern down a bit. Be cautious with using oil based products in your earless, it requires a lot more cleaning than using just water based products. I personally don't use oil based in mine. You can, but the cleaning will be different.
Great video! Since I am a beginner, can the wipe on Fusion topcoat be used for transfers? Can you use wax over transfers or stencils that are applied to Wise Owl One hour Enamel Paint? Would you have to topcoat the whole piece or just the transfer? A lot of questions during lockdown! I am sorry that I haven't seen any recent videos from your channel. Hope all is well!
HI thank you! I don't do transfers but I do know they can be topcoat and I hear the best is a spray on topcoat or with a brush or foam applicator using a water based topcoat. Waxing I know doesn't work well over transfers - I would stay away from that - it can tend to move around your transfer rubbing the wax on and off. I would topcoat the entire piece if it were me to make my finish consistent. thank you for watching!
I have only ever used polycrylic on the few projects I have done and have never had any problems, until my latest piece. I have two coats down and am just not happy with how much sanding I feel like i am having to do inbetween because I am just not liking they way it is laying down. Can I switch to a different brand water based top coat for additional coats?
Amy Oyler sometimes it’s the piece that your working with that can be contributing to the issue especially if you haven’t had issues on other projects. However, after sanding down I have switched brands and had no issues - as long as it’s water based you should be ok, just definitely sand before laying down your new product.
Minwax PolyCrylic is junk. General Finishes (the brand shown here) makes MUCH better products. If you want to try the waterborne poly again, try that one.
@@gokblokI know this is an old thread but this is the answer. The polycryclic is like liquid plastic while the GF and perhaps other higher end (and pricier) brands are much more like polyurethane minus the ambering. They're not even close! Edit: I'll just add that I'm fine using polycrylic for shop type furniture (plywood etc.). It is durable and certainly costs a lot less than GF.
sylvia seri you can layer in that fashion - never actually mix two brand products together as that will compromise your finish being different formulas make ups. Yes you can use different brands
Have you used HPTC over light paint? If so, have you had a yellowing issue? Would using GF Stain Blocker before paint prevent yellowing? I really like white paint and I really want to use HPTC, lol.
Yes light paint - but no whites and even then it can yellow, just depends on if you primed, if its a bleeder type of wood, etc. I suggest doing a test patch. Oh yes, using the primer stain blocker will definitely help that. I would suggest their brushable white enamel, no topcoat necessary, already in the formula, then you won't have that issue with whites - whites normally yellow on their own over time, so when you had a topcoat, even water based it can pull out more yellowing from the wood and cause it to yellow right away, over time or sometimes not at all. GF puts a warning label on their whites do not topcoat as wit will yellow.
No, you can. There’s no reason it would harm anything with your water based topcoat. I’m using 0000 the finest - it does not scratch or etch the surface at all. It’s extremely fine.
Cynthia Welch I have tried Minwax - it’s not bad, it sets pretty fast - so I felt like I had to work fast and it was a bit thick. I prefer GF high performance top coat in satin. I have not used Modern Masters dead flat varnish but I have used Polyvine dead flat varnish which is similar and I really liked it.
I use Minwax satin polycrylic a lot. It’s a bit of a learning curve to get a good technique figured out so it doesn’t dry too fast on you and you don’t overwork it. I’ll be trying GF high performance top coat once my current can of Minwax is gone.
You can use oil based over dark colors which will deepen the color and add a finish to it, it looks great over black. It absorbs just fine, oil products do take longer to dry. No you don’t have to clear over the oil based poly.
gokblok oh I’m sorry I thought you were talking about oil based poly. The hemp oil is an all natural finish. It’s good safe, no voc’s,. It’s a great alternative for those who have chemical sensitivities and cannot use solvent based products. It provides a nice sheen and is environmentally friendly. You just brush in and wipe away the excess. It will darken the wood or paint. It penetrates to protect from the inside out, it doesn’t leave a surface film.
You are my absolute favorite resource for opinioned painting information. I like your presentation of information, explanation of reason, and knowledge based on experience. You speak well, your professional, and can back yourself up with amazing work. I wish you had more viewers and followers, it is totally “their” loss. I look forward to every video as well as Instagram posts.
Jennifer Tucker Thank you so much, that is so nice of you to take the time to leave this comment - it’s so rewarding to hear such positive things. I’m glad you enjoy my videos and feel free to pass me along to anyone that you that would also! 😀
Thank you for all of the reviews. You have helped me sooo much. Please stay safe in these crazy times. While we shelter in place, we are painting the living room furniture. Total newbies, having a blast doing it. ☺
Hi! I love doing them and so glad they have been helpful! Thank you for watching! You as well. Same here, just painting and isolating! 😀
Wonderful and timely advice! Thank you!
Thank you and thanks for watching - so glad!
Just discovered your videos a few days ago. I love how thorough you are - thank you for all the wonderful information!
Wendy Cross I’m so glad you found me! Thank you for watching!
Your tutorials are excellent, Thankyou for taking the time to share your knowledge with us. 😍
Thank you Karen for the nice comment! My pleasure!
Just found your video an I'm very impressed not only with the products but also how you use em.im getting ready to do my cabinets with jel-stain general finishes wish me luck lol...anyway I just wanted to say you did a great job an hope to chat with you in your upcoming videos.....again thank you just subscribed like to chat more with that fusion product more but it can wait take care
Jerry Hughes hi there! Glad you found me and you found this video helpful. Good luck on your project 😀
You should try building with gloss and using satin as your final coat. It'll give you more depth/clarity of finish and keep your preferred sheen on top.
I live in a very hot, dry climate and am having issues with streaking on dark painted furniture. I think it’s just too hot for my topcoats. Any advice? And thank you for sharing all your expertise! I’m looking forward to signing up for your class.
Yes its setting up too fast. Unfortunately unless you are in a cooler climate that is going to happen - you can add extender to your topcoat which will help with the open time of the product - but if it is just too hot - you are going to have that issue. If possible bring inside to topcoat or do first thing the am or late at night when temps drop
What would you use if you were doing a flat or matte top coat and also what would be ok to use as a top coat say in a bathroom for a shelf.thank you, love your videos!
So matte and flat are not very durable - the flattening agents in them make them less of a work horse of a top coat. I would suggest doing two coats of semi gloss and then finishing with one coat of matte for the look and still getting the durability needed. I love General finishes high performance top coat - thank you so much! 😀
I love Annie Sloan wax!
I’ve learned a lot from your videos!!! ❤️
Nothing Catchy me too! Thank you for watching! 😀
Where are you in 2024 with ykur topcoats? Do you like gf, satin Gel finish, and do you still use armour seal on stained stuff?
I prefer Lilly moon paint topcoat & minwax polyacrylic - GF has just gotten so high in cost and I do not use oil based products any longer - I have really converted to water based products for the most part
Thank you for sharing your expertise!! After watching many of your videos i finally went out today and purchased Annie Sloan Chicago Grey to do a full size bedroom set for my granddaughter. Bed, dresser, mirror and 2 night stands. Two questions...what brush would you recommend for the smoothest application of the chalk paint for a beginner? #2 - for top coat which do you think is easiest and most durable for a 1st timer for sealer? The general finish or the wax? I am really wanting a satin finish. Thank you 😊
Hi. Your so welcome. I personally like and use cling on brushes, they are one of the best for providing a smooth shed free finish. I also like to use a water mister with this paint to help get a smooth even finish and allow the paint to level nicely. I have used wax in the past, but my topcoat of choice go all of my project is general finished high performance top coat in satin. It works beautifully over Annie. I wait until the next day or so after my final paint coat to top coat though to avoid any pulling of the fresh paint.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique would you suggest flat or round cling on brush? Thank you
@@kborn9583 I like the flat brushes F40 or F50 for larger projects
Thanks so much for your new update!
Absolutely!
Love this. I’m trying to redo my dining set and hutch and trying to research everything before I start. However my furniture says it’s Solid wood construction with Pine hardwood and Birch veneer so I’m really struggling on what to do, my top of my table is very scratched and has always been very easy to damage. I was wanting to restain if from the oak color to a dark walnut. I’m wondering if I should strip it or sand bc if the veneer. Any ideas would be so helpful!!!
Momof3blessings FaithHope&Love So you can sand veneer, just start less aggressively with the sandpaper. I would start at 100 grit, then 120, 150 & finish with 180. I sand veneer all the time, you just have to be mindful not to burn through. If you strip, you will still have to sand after the stripper is removed, less sanding but you will still need to sand smooth to accept stain. I have a video on here showing that process. If your apprehensive to just go the sanding route, then try stripper. I’m not a huge fan of chemical strippers but go check out the recent video I did on it, might help you decide!
Thank you so much! I will search for your video!
Born in a Barn Boutique also would you suggest a gel stain from general finishes or another brand? Those seem to be a great thing according to videos but a bit pricier then normal stains? Also do you think a pint of the gel stain from general finishes would be enough for a table top and the very top of my hutch?
Momof3blessings FaithHope&Love so I use GF stains mostly. Their water based and gel stains are awesome. The only other brand I like is Varathane One Hour oil based stains. They are more cost effective, if that’s a factor for you, I would go that direction. I have a video on my favorite stains. Yes a pint should be enough, pine and veneer take stain really well.
Do you ever use wax over a painted furniture piece? How often do you rewax your cabinets? I assume your cabinets were done with General finishes paint as it is one of your go to paints? I also assume they haven't chipped much over the 6 yrs?
No I rarely use wax anymore. Unless I’m using for a look with black or dark wax. I have never re-waxed them. I should have , but never did and they have held up amazing. I have no chips at all. No I did my cabinets before I ever painted furniture and knew nothing about GF. 😀 I used Annie Sloan and it was 7 years ago
I just got the Earlex HV5500 and hope to use it to apply General Finishes High Performance Semigloss on 30's vintage radio cabinets. I might use it for Arm-R-Seal as well but plan to try the water-based topcoat first. Which needle size would you recommend?
You know the standard 2mm needle works just fine for topcoat, I use it all the time, just make sure you adjust your spray pattern down a bit. Be cautious with using oil based products in your earless, it requires a lot more cleaning than using just water based products. I personally don't use oil based in mine. You can, but the cleaning will be different.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Thank you!
Great video! Since I am a beginner, can the wipe on Fusion topcoat be used for transfers? Can you use wax over transfers or stencils that are applied to Wise Owl One hour Enamel Paint? Would you have to topcoat the whole piece or just the transfer? A lot of questions during lockdown! I am sorry that I haven't seen any recent videos from your channel. Hope all is well!
HI thank you! I don't do transfers but I do know they can be topcoat and I hear the best is a spray on topcoat or with a brush or foam applicator using a water based topcoat. Waxing I know doesn't work well over transfers - I would stay away from that - it can tend to move around your transfer rubbing the wax on and off. I would topcoat the entire piece if it were me to make my finish consistent. thank you for watching!
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Thank you so much for your response! 😊
I have only ever used polycrylic on the few projects I have done and have never had any problems, until my latest piece. I have two coats down and am just not happy with how much sanding I feel like i am having to do inbetween because I am just not liking they way it is laying down. Can I switch to a different brand water based top coat for additional coats?
Amy Oyler sometimes it’s the piece that your working with that can be contributing to the issue especially if you haven’t had issues on other projects. However, after sanding down I have switched brands and had no issues - as long as it’s water based you should be ok, just definitely sand before laying down your new product.
Minwax PolyCrylic is junk. General Finishes (the brand shown here) makes MUCH better products. If you want to try the waterborne poly again, try that one.
@@gokblokI know this is an old thread but this is the answer. The polycryclic is like liquid plastic while the GF and perhaps other higher end (and pricier) brands are much more like polyurethane minus the ambering. They're not even close!
Edit: I'll just add that I'm fine using polycrylic for shop type furniture (plywood etc.). It is durable and certainly costs a lot less than GF.
Can you mix up different brands? For example, if I use GF snow white or any other white paint, can I use the Fusion wipe on poly?
sylvia seri you can layer in that fashion - never actually mix two brand products together as that will compromise your finish being different formulas make ups. Yes you can use different brands
Can you wax over a Fusion natural oil used as top coat and if so what would the benefit be
I wouldn’t. The fusion stain and finishing oil is a stain and topcoat in one and doesn’t need anything additional
Have you used HPTC over light paint? If so, have you had a yellowing issue? Would using GF Stain Blocker before paint prevent yellowing? I really like white paint and I really want to use HPTC, lol.
Yes light paint - but no whites and even then it can yellow, just depends on if you primed, if its a bleeder type of wood, etc. I suggest doing a test patch. Oh yes, using the primer stain blocker will definitely help that. I would suggest their brushable white enamel, no topcoat necessary, already in the formula, then you won't have that issue with whites - whites normally yellow on their own over time, so when you had a topcoat, even water based it can pull out more yellowing from the wood and cause it to yellow right away, over time or sometimes not at all. GF puts a warning label on their whites do not topcoat as wit will yellow.
What do recommend for over Annie Sloan chalk paint to give it a smooth feel. I don’t like the wax
Amanda Price I use General finishes high performance top coat over Annie and all other paints in satin
Very informative.. thank you
I thought that you weren't supposed to use steel wool with water-based top coat.
No, you can. There’s no reason it would harm anything with your water based topcoat. I’m using 0000 the finest - it does not scratch or etch the surface at all. It’s extremely fine.
Do you ever use Minwax polycrylic (satin finish) or Modern Masters Dead Flat varnish? If so, what is your take on them?
Cynthia Welch I have tried Minwax - it’s not bad, it sets pretty fast - so I felt like I had to work fast and it was a bit thick. I prefer GF high performance top coat in satin. I have not used Modern Masters dead flat varnish but I have used Polyvine dead flat varnish which is similar and I really liked it.
I use Minwax satin polycrylic a lot. It’s a bit of a learning curve to get a good technique figured out so it doesn’t dry too fast on you and you don’t overwork it. I’ll be trying GF high performance top coat once my current can of Minwax is gone.
Why would you use an oil over paint? How does it absorb? And you use a clear over the oil?
You can use oil based over dark colors which will deepen the color and add a finish to it, it looks great over black. It absorbs just fine, oil products do take longer to dry. No you don’t have to clear over the oil based poly.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique maybe I misunderstood. Is the hemp oil a varnish? Or just an oil, like teak oil or linseed oil?
gokblok oh I’m sorry I thought you were talking about oil based poly. The hemp oil is an all natural finish. It’s good safe, no voc’s,. It’s a great alternative for those who have chemical sensitivities and cannot use solvent based products. It provides a nice sheen and is environmentally friendly. You just brush in and wipe away the excess. It will darken the wood or paint. It penetrates to protect from the inside out, it doesn’t leave a surface film.
Can you/do you ever wax over stain? Are there stains you can and can't wax on top of?
You can actually use wax over stain, you just want to wait 72 hours before applying any top coat over an oil based stain.
Awesome video!!
Thank you! 😀
what top coat do you suggest for bare cedar used for an indoor coffee table?
I like general finishes arm r seal (oil based) or their high performance top coat (water based)
Not all foam brushes are create equal!! You can say that again.
So true 😂
Why would you use an oil over paint? How does it absorb? And you use a clear over the oil?