25 cent part shut my rifle down. I had a brand new gun that I had malfunctions with the first time a shot it. It was not extracting the spent cartridges a couple times while firing a 30 round magazine. When I got home and cleaned the rifle and checked it I noticed one of the gas rings were broken. I replaced it at a cost of 25 cents and now it shoots like a sewing machine. Hopefully this intel is helpful for someone. ✌️
My first time out the taper pins on my ar556 popped out and I think it caused the gas tube to dislodge. I put everything back and am waiting for another pin before I try to fire it again. I’m going to have a gunsmith check it out first
So you didn't inspect it before you shot it for the first time. This is exactly why you take the time to do a thorough inspection of any firearm before using it. Fortunately nothing terrible happened and the only thing you lost was a little bit of your time. It's amazing how little people pay attention to potentially dangerous things. Do you even look both ways before you cross the road.
@@shantor100Depends on the maker.... I bought an aero upper and I made sure I did a full quality inspection. The flash hider was loose and the gas block screws were loose. Buuuut, when I bought a Geissele full rifle. Everything was marked with a yellow paint marker, checked, and I didn't feel the need to check the rifle at all. You could tell it had some QC done with it. The BCG is different. I QC check every single BCG. I disassemble the bolts and see what kind of extractor springs they have. Give the gas rings a spin and do the drop test. Check there ejectors and spring stiffness. Check the bolt face for flatness. I check for proper head space on the rifle with a go and a field gauge. Then I give the BCG a full light coat of oil and grease the rails. Not quality checking rifles is a mistake. Not quality checking a BCG is lacking on common sense. Daniel defense, Geissele, BCM, LMT, all of them NEED to be checked. You're just asking for issues if you don't.
Fellows - Simply a quick note to thank you for these tutorials. They are very well done and every time I watch, even when they don’t directly apply to me, I learn valuable things.
OK, gotta say it. I was in a pool of applicants to work for Brownell's sometime in the mid 80's. They were looking for a catalog copy writer and I threw my hat in the ring. Actually had 3 interviews but didn't make the final cut. I think my comments on "creativity" torpedoed me as they were very concerned about maintaining their unique catalog presence. I got that. If it's still out there, the Brownell's catalog is truly one of a kind. Really written by gun aficionados for gun aficionados. And in a really entertaining way. Loved getting those paper catalogs in the mail! Never been an AR fanboy but recently came into a few examples at an estate sale. Because they were very affordable, I availed myself. Brownell's has been a wealth of reliable information. As it worked out, my career path was a little strange but ended very (very) well for me. Always got a soft spot in my heart for Brownell's. Steven and Caleb are awesome in these tech bulletins and the information is truly priceless. Thank you Steven and Caleb for all you do!
I have a PSA upper that has a slightly crooked gas tube that rubs on the side of the gas key a little. The upper functions perfect as of now but I keep that in mind if I ever start getting signs of being under gassed.
The other check is to check the gas tube alignment and condition of gas carrier key bevel. With the BCG stripped down, re-install the bolt carrier while holding the upper assembly at a 45 degree angle (muzzle down). Hold the bolt carrier out part way and release. Under its own weight, the carrier should slide in all the way and the gas tube should align with the carrier key. If the gas tube moves a lot or stops the carrier, the gas tube is bent. But also check the carrier key to ensure the two screws are tight and staked. Ensure the bevel end of the carrier key is not damaged, round and no burrs which usually occurs from dropping the carrier on the ground. Just in case anyone wonders, I was an Army Warrant Officer (MOS 913A), TACOM LAR, weapons instructor, and gunsmith.
I got a barrel for A.R. 15 I was building and was having issues, come to find out (thanks to Brownells and the tec line) the gas port hole in the barrel was drilled too small so I had to drill it out. My butt was tight the whole time I was holding that drill 😆 but now the gun works gr8.
Oh no. Hopefully you checked the gas port hole for size first to make sure that was the culprit? Could have been several things, and you just fed it more gas then necessary to compensate for another issue 😬
OP did the correct fix. He stated that he spoke to gunsmiths. it’s not rocket science. Ex: if your port should be .093 you put an .093 drill bit in the hole. If it won’t fit, the hole is too small. Guns are not lab equipment. If you oversized the hole it’s simple enough to throttle it back with an adjustable gas block or a heavier buffer. An overgassed rifle is way better than an undergassed one.
Another check for the gas rings is to insert the bolt into the bolt carrier and hold it by the bolt face vertically. If the bolt carrier falls off the bolt you need to replace the gas rings.
That tip of the bcg holding its weight is a great piece of information. I'd been wondering when to replace the rings. You got that Retainer pin in so damn quick. Thats the one thing to give me trouble when reassembling.
The standing bcg gas ring test is fantastic! I teach that in my AR-15 cleaning class at the range I RSO for. It’s amazing how many bolts have worn gas rings in them. A lot of rifle owners don’t even know to check things like that.
Great video. I now know that my gas rings in my M16A1 that I was issued in the early 90's were worn out. I remember how easily my bolt would slide out. Cool. Thanks for sharing.
Big fan. I watch all your videos! Best video yet.....you explained a problem with the gas gun a lot of us lack the understanding from experience. Undergassed OR overgassed....now I know... mine is Undergassed. Thank you soon much for making these videos...
I feel like Steve is like that proud dad who taught his son well about firearms so now he just sets back in honor watching his son tell the tales of a rifle 😂
This is quite helpful, I just got my first AR and the bolt has a pretty tight fit in the carrier, and until I saw this video I thought that was a problem, luckily now I know better.
Yeah there's always little things that you think are an issue until you learn their designed that way for a reason. For example I've seen several people who have opened up their buffer weights and added shims to make them tight so they don't rattle back and forth. However that rattling back and forth is intentional. It acts like a dead blow hammer to prevent bolt bounce. Which is why I have a problem with those stupid tungsten BB/powder filled buffer weights. They're generally a gimmick more than anything. If you put them in a machine gun, which I know is hard to come by, they won't function properly. It's generally not a problem for semi automatics. But it isn't helping things. If you think about it the three free-floating weights always move in a straight line. But powder or BB's act more chaotic. You're basically losing energy every time. Making it less efficient for the weight. It can make your gun feel like it's shooting softer, however in reality you're causing minor changes in how the gun fluctuations that can cause issues later. I personally don't think it's a coincidence that I've seen 3 bolts with broken lugs over the years. An only two of the three we're fairly new bolts from decent manufacturers. However both guns had some type of stupid buffer filled with loose powde/BB crap.
Thank you for your RUclips tutorials. They are a learning experience. The best way to fix over gas is to use an under sized gas tube it has a smaller hole allowing less gas. An adjustable gas block just adds another thing that wears out way too quickly.
That's why I have two ARs and one Mini 14. I have a series 584. No, it's not as accurate or as tacticool (featureless model with wood stock), but it's not prone to any of the malfunctions listed in this video. It's also much easier to clean.
If I feel my gas tube slight touching going into the gas key I should get a new gas tube& maybe block? Thank god, bought my BCG from y'all so if it breaks in anyway I can get it fixed or replaced! BROWNELLS FOR THE WIN!
Wow i really like your videos! I am an AR15 Owner myselfe. I think they are very educational as well as entertaining and provide a lot of tips and tricks. Keep up the great work! Greetings from the beatiful Alps in Austria :)
@@salmonmoose509 I first look at the sight base, which will sometimes be canted off to one side or spaced too far from the shoulder in the barrel. Alternatively, it can be right up against the shoulder, but the shoulder is designed to have a front handguard retainer. Either way, you have to take the block off to verify. The customer has usually fired it enough there will be a mark on the barrel showing right where the block was. When I reassemble, I use a piece of tape with an index mark to get it centered and I measure for the gap (if any) to the shoulder.
@@salmonmoose509 You can also use a borescope to look at the gas hole alignment from inside the barrel. I wouldn't mess with that though. Just remove your current gas block and dimple your barrel on at least the first gas block set screw (opposite gas hole). Brownells sells a jig for $55 for 0.75" gas block journals, PN: 100-032-039WB but doesn't include the bit for dimpling. I normally like to shill for the website whose video I am watching but full disclaimer: I use KAK's barrel dimpling jig which isn't offered at brownells, PN: KAK-DRILL-JIG-750. It has performed flawlessly on 5 builds and comes with its own spot drill. If you have a barrel that is a different size than the 0.75" gas block journal, Optics Planet has a full selection of SLR Rifleworks dimple jigs for the various barrel diameters, again without the spot drill. Good luck and happy building, Montagonist!
I have been assembling AR-15s since the 80s, primarily for myself and some family members. I have had very few problems over the years and nothing that wasn't easily resolved until now. I recently built a 10.5 inch .223 SBR for myself using new quality parts and after maybe 40 rounds discovered an under-gassing problem when shooting cheap Wolf ammo and even when suppressed! Long story short I started checking the gas system starting from gas block and working back toward the chamber. Everything appeared to be in spec and correctly assembled. So I tried it again using good quality brass cased ammo and it still not right. In fact it was worse!! I remembered this video and re-watched it to see what I overlooked and stopped when you said gas key. I had ignored it as the problem because it was a "new bolt" and I only verified the rings. But I pulled it out and sure enough I saw the gas key wobble and it wasn't tight or staked. It only had a very slight pin prick on both sides of each bolt and was getting looser after every firing. I knew better but still overlooked the possibility of a loose gas key because it was new and expensive. Lesson learned. Thanks again!
One thing I always suggest looking at is carrier and buffer tube length. Which generally isn't an issue on production guns. However home builds, especially ones with tacticool folding or short pdw receivers like the maxam or law folder. Basically sometimes if the buffer tube is just a bit too long or the carrier is a bit too short for the system the gas key can strike the back of your receiver. If it's a major issue you'll find out pretty quick. If it's a minor issue it could eventually cause the gas key to loosen or crack without you noticing. The simplest way to test this is to push the bolt carrier group into your receiver extension until it bottoms out. Do this with the upper is off the gun and the buffer/spring still installed. Look at how close your gas key gets to the back of the receiver. You should be able to fit about two quarters in between the back of the receiver and the gas key. If it gets close to striking the back of the receiver try adding a quarter to the back of your receiver extension. If it's really bad you might need to add two. Just make sure your bolt carrier still has enough room to lock back properly.
@@jesuslovesme9138 nice. I actually work with some guys who've taken a few of his classes. I'm in Philly so he's only like two hours away. If you want to know the ins and outs of the AR platform SOTAR is the place.
So my bolt failed the collapse test. I ordered new rings, passed the collapse test. It got even worse. Before it would eject the spent shell but not load the next round. Now it won't eject the spent round.
@@JessPeters-qg1bn Interesting. Thanks for the answer. I don’t think I shoot mine enough for that. I see the guy from School of the American Rifle use a piece of trimmer cord to check that. I occasionally clean mine with the extra long “craft” pipe cleaners.
My daughter in law bought a new AR that would cycle brass 5.56 just fine but would not cycle steel. I found machining chips in the barrel gas port. Works great now.
AR gas design SUCKS! should have been a piston design then able to use all power levels of ammo and absolute reliability without over pressure, under pressure, gas rings issues.
@@colt45peacemaker Internal piston..All gas operated firearms are gas impingement..Long stroke, short stroke and internal piston...Many call the AR Stoner rifle direct impingement and it isn't..It is an internal piston...
I have been having FTF issues with a new build. Checked and reinstalled all parts TO BE SURE THEY ARE CORRECT. However, I believe the batch of hand loads I was using 22.5 grs. AR-comp and 75 gr .Hornady HPBT, 18 Criterion barrel. is not producing enough gas to complete the cycle, i.e. lock open on last round and, or, feed new round. Looks like a slight short stroke as cases eject at 3 to 4 o'clock and about 6 to 7 ft. Testing with factory rounds tomorrow. Hope this is the answer.
How about gas leaking around a gas block? How much is normal how much isn't? Should you fix it or will it fix itself? This would be a great video for you guys to do. Mine leak so I googled it and seams to be a very common problem but couldn't find a video. From what I understand is unless your getting an under gassing issue it's fine and will sometimes seal itself. You could also discuss clamp on gas blocks vs set screw has blocks. Thanks for the great videos!
Can you do a video on getting an old single-shot break open shotgun up and running. There are a lot of these shotguns sitting in peoples closets but they might need a new firing pin or have a cracked stock or something. Where do you get those parts? How do perform some of the common parts replacements?
I like the indication that you are still getting all that extra gas if over gassed and adjusting for in with buffer. Never thought of it like that. So I will always try the adj. Gas block first.
One of the selling points of one piece gas rings is reduced friction. As a result, the vertical friction test demonstrated in this video is generally not useful for single piece gas rings, as a properly designed one piece will not produce enough friction to hold the carrier up even when new.
AR10 was over gassed and adjustable gas block fixed it beautifully. But before I did that I tried to do it with an adjustable heavier Buffer that didn't work and not only is it hard to find for the AR10 they can be just as expensive as the Adjustable gas block just get the one that works.
.300 blackout. 15in carbine gas. Works perfect. Right off the rip it works perfect. Shoots great. Cycles perfect etc. I'd say it was right on the money, BUT.. its ejecting really far rearward and casings are most definitely bouncing off the "hump". Now, in the search for perfection I'm tempted to dig in. Common sense says leave it alone. Thoughts ??
Make sure the gas key is properly milled and not packed full of metal shavings or other debris. Got one that was packed full of metal shavings out of the box brand new.
Standing the extended bolt upright to see if the bolt carrier collapses over the bolt has unfortunately been passed down through generations of Army personnel. The TM clearly states to field strip the bolt from the bolt carrier and reinstall the bolt in the bolt carrier. Then, hold the bolt carrier upside down and see if the bolt falls out of the carrier under its own weight. That is the correct test of the three gas rings (unless the TM has changed after 2014). I still test the gas rings in this matter. Gas rings seldom need replacement unless the operator damages a ring reinstalling the bolt in the carrier.
I called a technician at Brownell’s and was told an over gassed system would eject brass back to the 4-5 o’clock position. The under gassed system would eject foreword 3oclock to 1oclock. I just heard this video explained it the other way forward was over gassed rearward under guest
So I had an under gas issue on a 20” rifle build - cycled 5.56 but not .223. Confirmed gas flow then replaced the buffer spring with a flat spring - next step was going to be to take an oz out of the 5.2 oz weight. Cold or light fire both rounds cycle but heavier fire sometimes the last .223 won’t lock the mag. Should I lighten the rifle buffer 1 weight? Any downside? Thank you, your series is very informative. Best
I had a gas seal get bent and lock the gun up,was a real bitch to get it apart,brand new ruger ar556. Wound up replacing the bcg with an aero precision bcg,now it works flawlessly
I have known a lot of shooters that were die hard convinced that the gas rings on the bolt had to be aligned. I have even pulled out metal pins, cut to length, that someone put in to keep them aligned.
Preface, I'm a 3 Gunner and shoot about 3k rounds per year in my Noveske rifle. I use 3 piece gas rings and replace them every year. Years ago, I had a gas ring fail during a major match that resulted in a non-cycling rifle. Gas rings are inexpensive and should be a regular maintenance item for your AR.
I've heard may recommend against adjustable gas blocks for defensive AR's(if it's a range toy or comp gun it doesn't matter nearly as much). They're typically far less reliable than a fixed block. The best think I've heard for over gassing is to increase buffer weight and bolt carrier mass. This also helps with recoil and general reliability. InRangeTV has a great video on this interviewing one of the co-designers of the AR-15.
Your intended application may also factor into determining if you are optimally-gassed. If you intend your rifle to primarily be a defensive rifle (I'm staking lives on it) then if you can't be optimally-gassed be a little over-gassed. Many military guns are purposefully over-gassed so that if you have a crappy batch of ammo or your gun is fouled up it can still cycle in poor conditions. If you are a consistent competition shooter many of them under-gas their rifles to decrease felt recoil believing it makes them faster. This will decrease reliability so many of them use only match or other highly reliable ammo if they don't hand load, working to find that tipping point between barely reliable with their chosen ammo and short-stroking.
New barrel and gas system installed at the factory. It is definitely a low gas situation. Is there a chance the adjustable gas block was turned down at the factory during installation?
So I think I’m having a under gassed issue. I have a FN rifle Upper and for the most part it runs fine BUT here and there it’ll fire and eject but not pick up the next round from the magazine
Built a new .300 Blk, it fires but then the extractor won’t let the round go nor will it eject. I’ve looked at the gas tube as best as I can and the key has the stakes I’ll have to check the rings as see what’s going on
would a softer spring or heavier buffer work for being under gassed? doing the 'one' bullet test, my bcg is not coming back all the way and locking in the open position.
What would happen if one were to over tighten a gas block set screw above 25 inch pounds (i.e to 30-40 inch lbs.) Could the problem be solved by simply backing out the set screw/s and reset them to 20-25 inch pounds of torque? 🤔
300 blk out is a little different, I had an extremely under gassed one and it was throwing around 1 to 2 o'clock but not far out....had to increase the gas system and change to a 300 blk out buffer spring.....
Gas ring isn't the only failure that lets the carrier drop when testing. A carrier with too large a diameter from either wear or poorly manufactured and too loose tolerance can drop and show as a failure.
25 cent part shut my rifle down. I had a brand new gun that I had malfunctions with the first time a shot it. It was not extracting the spent cartridges a couple times while firing a 30 round magazine. When I got home and cleaned the rifle and checked it I noticed one of the gas rings were broken. I replaced it at a cost of 25 cents and now it shoots like a sewing machine. Hopefully this intel is helpful for someone. ✌️
My first time out the taper pins on my ar556 popped out and I think it caused the gas tube to dislodge. I put everything back and am waiting for another pin before I try to fire it again. I’m going to have a gunsmith check it out first
lol get ak, ak shoot
So you didn't inspect it before you shot it for the first time. This is exactly why you take the time to do a thorough inspection of any firearm before using it. Fortunately nothing terrible happened and the only thing you lost was a little bit of your time. It's amazing how little people pay attention to potentially dangerous things. Do you even look both ways before you cross the road.
@BravoJulietAlpha well, people assume a new gun is done right. Crossing the road, really
@@shantor100Depends on the maker.... I bought an aero upper and I made sure I did a full quality inspection. The flash hider was loose and the gas block screws were loose.
Buuuut, when I bought a Geissele full rifle. Everything was marked with a yellow paint marker, checked, and I didn't feel the need to check the rifle at all. You could tell it had some QC done with it.
The BCG is different. I QC check every single BCG. I disassemble the bolts and see what kind of extractor springs they have. Give the gas rings a spin and do the drop test. Check there ejectors and spring stiffness. Check the bolt face for flatness. I check for proper head space on the rifle with a go and a field gauge.
Then I give the BCG a full light coat of oil and grease the rails.
Not quality checking rifles is a mistake. Not quality checking a BCG is lacking on common sense. Daniel defense, Geissele, BCM, LMT, all of them NEED to be checked. You're just asking for issues if you don't.
Fellows - Simply a quick note to thank you for these tutorials. They are very well done and every time I watch, even when they don’t directly apply to me, I learn valuable things.
OK, gotta say it. I was in a pool of applicants to work for Brownell's sometime in the mid 80's. They were looking for a catalog copy writer and I threw my hat in the ring. Actually had 3 interviews but didn't make the final cut. I think my comments on "creativity" torpedoed me as they were very concerned about maintaining their unique catalog presence. I got that.
If it's still out there, the Brownell's catalog is truly one of a kind. Really written by gun aficionados for gun aficionados. And in a really entertaining way. Loved getting those paper catalogs in the mail!
Never been an AR fanboy but recently came into a few examples at an estate sale. Because they were very affordable, I availed myself. Brownell's has been a wealth of reliable information.
As it worked out, my career path was a little strange but ended very (very) well for me. Always got a soft spot in my heart for Brownell's. Steven and Caleb are awesome in these tech bulletins and the information is truly priceless. Thank you Steven and Caleb for all you do!
Misaligned gas tube is a great example I never thought about thank you
I have a PSA upper that has a slightly crooked gas tube that rubs on the side of the gas key a little. The upper functions perfect as of now but I keep that in mind if I ever start getting signs of being under gassed.
The other check is to check the gas tube alignment and condition of gas carrier key bevel. With the BCG stripped down, re-install the bolt carrier while holding the upper assembly at a 45 degree angle (muzzle down). Hold the bolt carrier out part way and release. Under its own weight, the carrier should slide in all the way and the gas tube should align with the carrier key. If the gas tube moves a lot or stops the carrier, the gas tube is bent. But also check the carrier key to ensure the two screws are tight and staked. Ensure the bevel end of the carrier key is not damaged, round and no burrs which usually occurs from dropping the carrier on the ground. Just in case anyone wonders, I was an Army Warrant Officer (MOS 913A), TACOM LAR, weapons instructor, and gunsmith.
Great tip and explanation. We were always told not to drop the bolt. Now I know, thank you sir.
Nobody was wondering
I got a barrel for A.R. 15 I was building and was having issues, come to find out (thanks to Brownells and the tec line) the gas port hole in the barrel was drilled too small so I had to drill it out. My butt was tight the whole time I was holding that drill 😆 but now the gun works gr8.
Clenched cheeks is a perfectly natural reaction when doing delicate work on a machine that creates tiny explosions next to your face.
Let let me guess... Harbor freight bit index, coredless drill with a Jacobs hand tight chuck?
@@rhubarbpie2027 That should remedy the tight butt situation.
Oh no. Hopefully you checked the gas port hole for size first to make sure that was the culprit? Could have been several things, and you just fed it more gas then necessary to compensate for another issue 😬
OP did the correct fix. He stated that he spoke to gunsmiths. it’s not rocket science. Ex: if your port should be .093 you put an .093 drill bit in the hole. If it won’t fit, the hole is too small. Guns are not lab equipment. If you oversized the hole it’s simple enough to throttle it back with an adjustable gas block or a heavier buffer. An overgassed rifle is way better than an undergassed one.
Another check for the gas rings is to insert the bolt into the bolt carrier and hold it by the bolt face vertically.
If the bolt carrier falls off the bolt you need to replace the gas rings.
Love these father-son gun knowledge vids
Love your vids like this. Would truly enjoy some more long form stuff as well!
Nice description of problem guys. Thank you. Definitely a concur for me on the gas block.
Always clear, concise and informative. Everyone can understand the process if they pay any attention at all.
Best gun videos are with these two. Great job, guys!
That tip of the bcg holding its weight is a great piece of information. I'd been wondering when to replace the rings. You got that Retainer pin in so damn quick. Thats the one thing to give me trouble when reassembling.
Great stuff as always. Especially the simple test of the gas rings.
Great tips, thanks guys.
The standing bcg gas ring test is fantastic! I teach that in my AR-15 cleaning class at the range I RSO for. It’s amazing how many bolts have worn gas rings in them. A lot of rifle owners don’t even know to check things like that.
Great video. I now know that my gas rings in my M16A1 that I was issued in the early 90's were worn out. I remember how easily my bolt would slide out. Cool. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome tutorial, took care of my issue in one video. WAY TO GO!!
Those tips with illustrations are golden nuggets, especially for newbies. Thank you!
I prefer to avoid adjustable gas blocks on a serious use rifle. Vltor A5 buffer system is king
These videos are so helpful to people like me who might have issues and not really know what to look at..
Big fan. I watch all your videos! Best video yet.....you explained a problem with the gas gun a lot of us lack the understanding from experience. Undergassed OR overgassed....now I know... mine is Undergassed. Thank you soon much for making these videos...
Always great tips, thanks !
The Coffee cup thing is funny!
I feel like Steve is like that proud dad who taught his son well about firearms so now he just sets back in honor watching his son tell the tales of a rifle 😂
Great video. Now could you show us how to replace those rings.
Liking twice!👍👍
@@michaelkennedy996 Take a pick or little screw driver and pull them off and replace, Easy peasy...
U can use a dental pick. 👍👍
Great information
Thank you
This is quite helpful, I just got my first AR and the bolt has a pretty tight fit in the carrier, and until I saw this video I thought that was a problem, luckily now I know better.
True story. I learn a ton from these guys.
Yeah there's always little things that you think are an issue until you learn their designed that way for a reason.
For example I've seen several people who have opened up their buffer weights and added shims to make them tight so they don't rattle back and forth. However that rattling back and forth is intentional. It acts like a dead blow hammer to prevent bolt bounce.
Which is why I have a problem with those stupid tungsten BB/powder filled buffer weights. They're generally a gimmick more than anything. If you put them in a machine gun, which I know is hard to come by, they won't function properly. It's generally not a problem for semi automatics. But it isn't helping things. If you think about it the three free-floating weights always move in a straight line. But powder or BB's act more chaotic. You're basically losing energy every time. Making it less efficient for the weight. It can make your gun feel like it's shooting softer, however in reality you're causing minor changes in how the gun fluctuations that can cause issues later.
I personally don't think it's a coincidence that I've seen 3 bolts with broken lugs over the years. An only two of the three we're fairly new bolts from decent manufacturers. However both guns had some type of stupid buffer filled with loose powde/BB crap.
@Corat You're not wrong.
Good video...love these types of vids....keep up the good work..Airborne!!!
Thanks for the great vid guys, keep up the good work!
Great tips!
Thank you for your RUclips tutorials. They are a learning experience. The best way to fix over gas is to use an under sized gas tube it has a smaller hole allowing less gas. An adjustable gas block just adds another thing that wears out way too quickly.
Great video guys! I think this will solve my AR issues.
Another great video, one of my favorite channels!
Thank you!
That was great and I think that is the problem my weapon has had for a while now. Thank you.
That's why I have two ARs and one Mini 14. I have a series 584. No, it's not as accurate or as tacticool (featureless model with wood stock), but it's not prone to any of the malfunctions listed in this video. It's also much easier to clean.
Simple and to the point, great vid
If I feel my gas tube slight touching going into the gas key I should get a new gas tube& maybe block? Thank god, bought my BCG from y'all so if it breaks in anyway I can get it fixed or replaced! BROWNELLS FOR THE WIN!
Good point on the tube alignment. It happened to me.
Great information
Amazing video this is exactly what I've been looking for on RUclips but what if when need to change any of the parts??
Thanks for the info
I've got an upper that's over gassed even with a heavy buffer and spring. I am going to try one of those configurable gas tubes from BRT.
You're both great! Thank you!
Wow i really like your videos! I am an AR15 Owner myselfe. I think they are very educational as well as entertaining and provide a lot of tips and tricks. Keep up the great work! Greetings from the beatiful Alps in Austria :)
Thank you!
Thanks guys
Excellent video.
Bore dimensions inside the carrier can make it gas efficient or inefficient.
Love the DI system, more to the equation then most realize
Excellent video, thank you
Thank you for watching!
Fixed half a dozen "tabletop" guns where the customer had just misaligned the gas hole in the barrel with the block. That's the first thing I check.
What do you do to check that?
@@salmonmoose509 I first look at the sight base, which will sometimes be canted off to one side or spaced too far from the shoulder in the barrel. Alternatively, it can be right up against the shoulder, but the shoulder is designed to have a front handguard retainer. Either way, you have to take the block off to verify. The customer has usually fired it enough there will be a mark on the barrel showing right where the block was. When I reassemble, I use a piece of tape with an index mark to get it centered and I measure for the gap (if any) to the shoulder.
@@RyeOnHam ok
Thank you very much for the info.
I really appreciate it.
@@salmonmoose509 You can also use a borescope to look at the gas hole alignment from inside the barrel. I wouldn't mess with that though. Just remove your current gas block and dimple your barrel on at least the first gas block set screw (opposite gas hole). Brownells sells a jig for $55 for 0.75" gas block journals, PN: 100-032-039WB but doesn't include the bit for dimpling. I normally like to shill for the website whose video I am watching but full disclaimer: I use KAK's barrel dimpling jig which isn't offered at brownells, PN: KAK-DRILL-JIG-750. It has performed flawlessly on 5 builds and comes with its own spot drill. If you have a barrel that is a different size than the 0.75" gas block journal, Optics Planet has a full selection of SLR Rifleworks dimple jigs for the various barrel diameters, again without the spot drill. Good luck and happy building, Montagonist!
@@JenkinsStevenD Thanks for th info i will definitely look into these options.
I have been assembling AR-15s since the 80s, primarily for myself and some family members. I have had very few problems over the years and nothing that wasn't easily resolved until now. I recently built a 10.5 inch .223 SBR for myself using new quality parts and after maybe 40 rounds discovered an under-gassing problem when shooting cheap Wolf ammo and even when suppressed! Long story short I started checking the gas system starting from gas block and working back toward the chamber. Everything appeared to be in spec and correctly assembled. So I tried it again using good quality brass cased ammo and it still not right. In fact it was worse!!
I remembered this video and re-watched it to see what I overlooked and stopped when you said gas key. I had ignored it as the problem because it was a "new bolt" and I only verified the rings. But I pulled it out and sure enough I saw the gas key wobble and it wasn't tight or staked. It only had a very slight pin prick on both sides of each bolt and was getting looser after every firing. I knew better but still overlooked the possibility of a loose gas key because it was new and expensive. Lesson learned.
Thanks again!
Super to the point information here👍🏾👍🏾
Awesome video
Thanks.
One thing I always suggest looking at is carrier and buffer tube length. Which generally isn't an issue on production guns. However home builds, especially ones with tacticool folding or short pdw receivers like the maxam or law folder.
Basically sometimes if the buffer tube is just a bit too long or the carrier is a bit too short for the system the gas key can strike the back of your receiver. If it's a major issue you'll find out pretty quick. If it's a minor issue it could eventually cause the gas key to loosen or crack without you noticing.
The simplest way to test this is to push the bolt carrier group into your receiver extension until it bottoms out. Do this with the upper is off the gun and the buffer/spring still installed. Look at how close your gas key gets to the back of the receiver. You should be able to fit about two quarters in between the back of the receiver and the gas key. If it gets close to striking the back of the receiver try adding a quarter to the back of your receiver extension. If it's really bad you might need to add two. Just make sure your bolt carrier still has enough room to lock back properly.
I watch SOTAR also! :)
@@jesuslovesme9138 nice. I actually work with some guys who've taken a few of his classes. I'm in Philly so he's only like two hours away. If you want to know the ins and outs of the AR platform SOTAR is the place.
The hair,” EPIC”! Sheen on the hair,” LEGENDARY”!
You guys are great. I am new to the AR platform and have learned a lot. Please keep it up! Thanks
So my bolt failed the collapse test. I ordered new rings, passed the collapse test. It got even worse. Before it would eject the spent shell but not load the next round. Now it won't eject the spent round.
@@JessPeters-qg1bn. Did you install the rings in the correct direction?
@oklahomahank2378 yes. Turns out there was major carbon blockage in the gas tube.
@@JessPeters-qg1bn Interesting. Thanks for the answer. I don’t think I shoot mine enough for that. I see the guy from School of the American Rifle use a piece of trimmer cord to check that. I occasionally clean mine with the extra long “craft” pipe cleaners.
@oklahomahank2378 I asked my gun Smith what I could do to prevent that from happening. He said no. Shoot enough it will happen.
This video came at the perfect time, thanks gents!
Thank you!
My daughter in law bought a new AR that would cycle brass 5.56 just fine but would not cycle steel. I found machining chips in the barrel gas port. Works great now.
Gas block alignment with the gas hole in the barrel is important also
The AR-15 is such a brilliant design. Thank You guys for informing us of these characteristics.
AR gas design SUCKS!
should have been a piston design then able to use all power levels of ammo and absolute reliability without over pressure, under pressure, gas rings issues.
@@colt45peacemaker The AR is a piston design, try again...The AR is a reliable design, what makes you think it isn't ???
The internal piston design is the best for mitigating recoil. Stoner was a genius....
@@hairydogstail gas impingement design
@@colt45peacemaker Internal piston..All gas operated firearms are gas impingement..Long stroke, short stroke and internal piston...Many call the AR Stoner rifle direct impingement and it isn't..It is an internal piston...
Great video!!!!
Ends with the double coffee salute got to love it
I appreciate these videos
Thank you for watching!
I have been having FTF issues with a new build. Checked and reinstalled all parts TO BE SURE THEY ARE CORRECT. However, I believe the batch of hand loads I was using 22.5 grs. AR-comp and 75 gr .Hornady HPBT, 18 Criterion barrel. is not producing enough gas to complete the cycle, i.e. lock open on last round and, or, feed new round. Looks like a slight short stroke as cases eject at 3 to 4 o'clock and about 6 to 7 ft. Testing with factory rounds tomorrow. Hope this is the answer.
Synchronized Slurp = We Done Talking Now. 🤣
Thanks for the information.
Excelente saludos desde Monterrey, México
How about gas leaking around a gas block? How much is normal how much isn't? Should you fix it or will it fix itself? This would be a great video for you guys to do. Mine leak so I googled it and seams to be a very common problem but couldn't find a video. From what I understand is unless your getting an under gassing issue it's fine and will sometimes seal itself. You could also discuss clamp on gas blocks vs set screw has blocks. Thanks for the great videos!
Can you do a video on getting an old single-shot break open shotgun up and running. There are a lot of these shotguns sitting in peoples closets but they might need a new firing pin or have a cracked stock or something. Where do you get those parts? How do perform some of the common parts replacements?
Oh, wow. I just noticed the green Versa-Vise next to you on the table! Small world.
I like the indication that you are still getting all that extra gas if over gassed and adjusting for in with buffer. Never thought of it like that. So I will always try the adj. Gas block first.
One of the selling points of one piece gas rings is reduced friction. As a result, the vertical friction test demonstrated in this video is generally not useful for single piece gas rings, as a properly designed one piece will not produce enough friction to hold the carrier up even when new.
Rubber City Armory sells an adjustable gas key, as an option against using an adjustable gas block.
Great 👍🏻 keep doing it👍🏻
AR10 was over gassed and adjustable gas block fixed it beautifully. But before I did that I tried to do it with an adjustable heavier Buffer that didn't work and not only is it hard to find for the AR10 they can be just as expensive as the Adjustable gas block just get the one that works.
Heavier Buffer doesn't do anything for over gas issue.
My AR10 is severely over gassed to the point of not ejecting with any ammo.
.300 blackout. 15in carbine gas. Works perfect. Right off the rip it works perfect. Shoots great. Cycles perfect etc. I'd say it was right on the money, BUT.. its ejecting really far rearward and casings are most definitely bouncing off the "hump". Now, in the search for perfection I'm tempted to dig in. Common sense says leave it alone. Thoughts ??
Wow I learned a lot
Make sure the gas key is properly milled and not packed full of metal shavings or other debris.
Got one that was packed full of metal shavings out of the box brand new.
Standing the extended bolt upright to see if the bolt carrier collapses over the bolt has unfortunately been passed down through generations of Army personnel. The TM clearly states to field strip the bolt from the bolt carrier and reinstall the bolt in the bolt carrier. Then, hold the bolt carrier upside down and see if the bolt falls out of the carrier under its own weight. That is the correct test of the three gas rings (unless the TM has changed after 2014). I still test the gas rings in this matter. Gas rings seldom need replacement unless the operator damages a ring reinstalling the bolt in the carrier.
Who's cheesy idea was it for both of yall to sip that coffee at the end?? Lol
“That means that a lot of rounds have been through your gun… A LOT!”
Literally every Marine in basic training lol
Great!
I called a technician at Brownell’s and was told an over gassed system would eject brass back to the 4-5 o’clock position. The under gassed system would eject foreword 3oclock to 1oclock. I just heard this video explained it the other way forward was over gassed rearward under guest
Video is correct.
Over gas throws forward 1:00 position.
Very helpful information, thank you.
Another thing to consider with your gas rings is the barrel and gas tube length. Shorter gas tubes will wear out rings quicker.
Great point, overlooked often.
That's why my guns have quarter mile barrels!
So I had an under gas issue on a 20” rifle build - cycled 5.56 but not .223. Confirmed gas flow then replaced the buffer spring with a flat spring - next step was going to be to take an oz out of the 5.2 oz weight. Cold or light fire both rounds cycle but heavier fire sometimes the last .223 won’t lock the mag. Should I lighten the rifle buffer 1 weight? Any downside? Thank you, your series is very informative. Best
I had a buffer come apart one time causing crazy stove pipes when I first got my ar and took me a cpl days to figure out
"...and took me a cpl days to..."
I read that as " took my corproal days to..."
I had a gas seal get bent and lock the gun up,was a real bitch to get it apart,brand new ruger ar556. Wound up replacing the bcg with an aero precision bcg,now it works flawlessly
Thanks!!!!!
I have known a lot of shooters that were die hard convinced that the gas rings on the bolt had to be aligned. I have even pulled out metal pins, cut to length, that someone put in to keep them aligned.
All for not, gas ring alignment is indeed a myth.
Preface, I'm a 3 Gunner and shoot about 3k rounds per year in my Noveske rifle. I use 3 piece gas rings and replace them every year. Years ago, I had a gas ring fail during a major match that resulted in a non-cycling rifle. Gas rings are inexpensive and should be a regular maintenance item for your AR.
I've heard may recommend against adjustable gas blocks for defensive AR's(if it's a range toy or comp gun it doesn't matter nearly as much). They're typically far less reliable than a fixed block. The best think I've heard for over gassing is to increase buffer weight and bolt carrier mass. This also helps with recoil and general reliability. InRangeTV has a great video on this interviewing one of the co-designers of the AR-15.
Your intended application may also factor into determining if you are optimally-gassed. If you intend your rifle to primarily be a defensive rifle (I'm staking lives on it) then if you can't be optimally-gassed be a little over-gassed. Many military guns are purposefully over-gassed so that if you have a crappy batch of ammo or your gun is fouled up it can still cycle in poor conditions. If you are a consistent competition shooter many of them under-gas their rifles to decrease felt recoil believing it makes them faster. This will decrease reliability so many of them use only match or other highly reliable ammo if they don't hand load, working to find that tipping point between barely reliable with their chosen ammo and short-stroking.
Excellent point! All of this is fact!
Buenos dias, ya se limpio todo el conjunto de los gases y el problema continua, solo realiza un disparo. De antemano gracias por su respuesta.
Learned something today
Thank you
New barrel and gas system installed at the factory. It is definitely a low gas situation. Is there a chance the adjustable gas block was turned down at the factory during installation?
So I think I’m having a under gassed issue. I have a FN rifle Upper and for the most part it runs fine BUT here and there it’ll fire and eject but not pick up the next round from the magazine
Built a new .300 Blk, it fires but then the extractor won’t let the round go nor will it eject. I’ve looked at the gas tube as best as I can and the key has the stakes I’ll have to check the rings as see what’s going on
would a softer spring or heavier buffer work for being under gassed? doing the 'one' bullet test, my bcg is not coming back all the way and locking in the open position.
What would happen if one were to over tighten a gas block set screw above 25 inch pounds (i.e to 30-40 inch lbs.)
Could the problem be solved by simply backing out the set screw/s and reset them to 20-25 inch pounds of torque? 🤔
300 blk out is a little different, I had an extremely under gassed one and it was throwing around 1 to 2 o'clock but not far out....had to increase the gas system and change to a 300 blk out buffer spring.....
Yea, the different calibers on the platform do change the troubleshooting a bit.
Gas ring isn't the only failure that lets the carrier drop when testing. A carrier with too large a diameter from either wear or poorly manufactured and too loose tolerance can drop and show as a failure.