Just bought 3 of these, a 2500 watt inverter, 40a solar charge controller with bluetooth monitoring, and an air fryer and instant pot. Making all of my own cables, with slightly over-gauged wires, and using lots of circuit breakers. Looking forward to camping in my mini van soon and trying it all out! I have 5 portable 120w solar panels, but I'll get one or two fixed ones for the van roof. This is definitely a fun hobby. :)
@@knight2255 Bruun 120 watt portable panels on Amazon. They're like $114. Kind of an odd, but cool design, with USB ports, 5.5x2.1mm DC output that produces about 24-25 volts. You can't wire these panels in series though, if that matters to you. But they're rugged, nice looking.
What! Awww man I already bought four 100ah during black Friday deal for $305 each. Dang it. The Amazon reviews give glowing comments regarding customer service. Ty for the video and Merry Christmas!
I find it amazing that so much energy can be stored in a battery that size for that price. The climate up here in Canada has always been a detractor for LiFePO4 battery technology for an outside camper install. But for the price my interest has been kindled.
The closest alternative for small RV's is AGM and they're 50-75% the cost of LiFePO4 while weighing almost twice as much. I'm happy to pay the extra cost for ~half the weight.
I believe the low temp worries can be solved by making a insulated box with foam board the batteries are a mass & give up a small amount of heat just by themselves, just a thought.
Impressive if the cells are grade A! I spent $300 for just 4 sets of 100Ah LiFEPO4 batteries in April 2021, that's without a BMS! Now I can get both the BMS and 100Ah LFP battery for $280 shipped? Hot damn!
Nice review - thanks for taking the time to go over these. Don't LifePo4 batteries allow charging at a reduced rate (10~20 AH) at temps well below freezing? They just don't wan't you jamming max current into them when cold? Seems like I read that somewhere.. Are there chargers that have built in cold protection? Sorry for all the questions but I'm a newb.
Hey man! Thanks for question! The general rule for LiFePO4 is you can CHARGE down to 32F, but you can DISCHARGE down to -4F. Most decent Solar Charge Controllers will have some kind of temperature limit where they'll throw an error code and stop charging when they reach 32F - but this only helps you if the CC and the batteries are operating in the same ambient temp, so it IS nice to have low-temp cut-off protections directly on the battery, just in case. On the other hand, none of my AC chargers have low-temp protections - so I suspect that's not something that common in AC chargers.
I'm checking battery prices and notice that they are now dropping steadily. Even this Timeusb is on sale for $299 which is an outstanding price looks like they are dropping further as so many competitors are out now
Hi. Great video. Can you connect a battery like this directly to your motorhome and replace the old style of battery. My motorhome is a 2010 Hymer with the older style alternator and not the new smart alternator.
Hmm, very similar to Redodo in packaging, manual and the nice styrofoam to secure it in the shipping box. Wow, you put it through the paces and she still was cranking. Thanks for sharing this video all your videos are a big help.
Do you consider that BMS allowing so much more than 100 amps to be good or bad? Personally, I would prefer that the BMS stop output much sooner, to protect the cells. The data sheet from Shenzen shows that those cells should not exceed 1C for charge or discharge. The BMS was allowing 2C for much longer than it should have, in my opinion.
Yeah, I'm going to do some additional testing on that to try and understand how it actually behaves. In any case, putting a 200A breaker on the main positive would be a solution, but would be nice to have the BMS performing the first line of defense and the breaker as a secondary.
I reached out to TimeUSB for an explanation and here's a summary of their response: The BMS uses High-Temp protection to shut-down protect the BMS and the cells, so in a cool environment (like my testing area in an unheated basement) the internal temp rises more slowly and the battery can be run for longer periods at higher current draws. They also said that they use cells that are capable of running continuously at a 200A load without causing damage...BUT they don't advise customers to do that as it could negatively impact overall battery life if done regularly - so the manual states a much lower continous max current at 100A to promote the longest possible product life.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors - That's an interesting response. I guess that means the fets are actually capable of 200A (as your video shows) and would keep right on delivering that much power, if the high temp sensor were to fail or something was actively cooling it. I come from an IT background, where failover and redundancy are the name of the game, so relying on the temp sensor is a single point of failure that makes me nervous. (Also been playing drums for 40 years, so I'd say we have a few things in common.)
how many in series or parallel ? you dont seem worried the bms didnt work(thats the whole point of a bms, to stop your battery from killing its self) or they disconnected it .
Up to 4 on series or parallel and 16 total in a 4S4P config. I'm actually doing some additional testing on the BMS to try and get a clearer picture of what's going on there. I'll post results soon.
Great review, thanks! Do you know if the BMS is this battery is constantly balancing the voltage between the cells? I'm thinking about buying this and keeping it charged around 90%, but worry about the battery cells coming out of balance with each other... especially if I'm not fully charging it and cycling it from time to time.
I actually reached out to TimeUSB about this for clarification. Seems this is by design. To summarize their response: The BMS uses High-Temp protection to shut-down protect the BMS and the cells, so in a cool environment (like my testing area in an unheated basement) the internal temp rises more slowly and the battery can be run for longer periods at higher current draws. They also said that they use cells that are capable of running continuously at a 200A load without causing damage...BUT they don't advise customers to do that as it could negatively impact overall battery life if done regularly - so the manual states a much lower continous max current at 100A to promote the longest possible product life.
GREAT info, looking to power a 48v max. 220a (20hp equivalent) outboard just purchased from Golden Motor, having tough time deciding on what battery to purchase.
I'm New to off grid camping. I also live close to you. I was wondering with having a 3000 watt inverter, I would like to run 2 small window units in the evening for 32ft. camper and maybe a fan , each window unit is a 5000 btu a/c and a fan with small tv. If i had 2 litium 100 ah paralleled fully charged how long could those items be ran at one time. the only thing i have as of now is the 3000 watt fit4life brand inverter. Daytime i have a 3000 watt generator inverter quiet type. Any help with a limited budget in mind would be great. Thank you
Hey KRD - sorry I just now saw your comment (sometimes RUclips is weird with what comments it lists in my feed and I frequently miss comments that I'd otherwise response to). Anyway - a typical 5000 btu AC unit will pull around 500W continuous while the compressor is running. And so there's a fair amount of variability in average Wh consumption depending on...well...all the things you'd expect (outside temp, inside temp, setpoint temp, insulation, efficiency of the unit). So to estimate, we'd have to make some assumptions. So for example, if we assume the compressors on both units will run about 50% of the time with the fans blowing continually, I'd guess you'd see something like 375Wh capacity consumed by each AC unit per hour = ~750Wh/hour Putting 2 of these batteries in parallel would get you around 2300Wh of usable capacity (factoring in a 10% loss from Inverter). So that'd only get you about 3 hours of runtime for just the AC units (which are obviously the heaviest load). The TV might draw 75-100Wh per hour and the fan only maybe 40-60Wh per hour. Hope that helps! :)
So then BMS is not functioning properly, it seems? Is it misconfigured? Should it not turn off if exposed to this kind of load for that long? Is it possible to actually damage batteries?
Most of these batteries are cheaply made most of them are scams they advertise lithium iron when it's actually lithium ion be aware usually the ones that are $250-400 are usually scams, most of these batteries are taken apart by other RUclips reviewers
Any 12V Inverter up to 1000W would be fine with this battery. You COULD also get away up to a 2000W inverter, but if you end up trying to use the full 2000W, you could trip the BMS protection on the battery, and just generally put more stress on the battery cells, potentially reducing their long-term service life, so just be aware of that. Also, I'd recommend pure-sinewave instead of 'modified sinewave' to ensure it can safely power anything you'd normally plug into a wall outlet.
It's odd that the company says NOT for golf carts, or trolling motors?? How does the battery know what is using it's energy? I can understand not for starting engines, but trolling motors or golf carts?
I'm also a little surprised by the trolling motors part....But golf carts can frequently pull more than the 100A BMS limitation on this battery without putting a limiter on the golf cart to prevent that. There's a reason that batteries marketed as 'golf cart' batteries are more expensive - because those are designed to handle the high-current draw for that application. I wonder on the trolling motor thing if they've had issues with them being used some sub-set of trolling motors that might pull more current and trip the BMS over-current protection as a result and so they just now say they shouldn't be used for ANY trolling motor. Not sure...
Battery costs are coming down by 18% a year on average for the past decade. By the time you have to replace one of these batteries they will be less than half the cost. Even if the BMS dies on you the likelihood is the cells are perfectly fine and you can cut the top open and replace the bms with a matching unit.
The simplest test to see if the batteries are old is to test each cell, they should reach 3.6v fully charged, 14.4v for 4s. 3.2v is the cut off discharged voltage and 12.8v for 4s. If it has lower voltage cells they make 5s parallel packs or sell it with a lower voltage. 2.2v per cell is the lowest safe voltage when they are end of life, any lower and risk reverse polarity if the battery is blocked with dendrites.
I keep going back and forth with this brand. Will Prowse wasn't super positive in his review but not overly critical either. Amazon listing: "12V100Ah Pro LiFePO4 battery has a lifespan of approximately 10 years and 4000+ life cycles with 100% DOD." Warranty is 5 years. They haven't even been selling for 5 years so I'm hesitant on the warranty... I do have the small 3ah version and although it's seen little use, I don't have any problems with it.
Yeah, those are all fair points. For me, I compare something like this to the something premium like the BattleBorne at about 3x the price, and I'll take this one all day long. Yeah, the Battleborne has a 10 year warranty, but you're paying 3x more up front for that 'extended warranty'. I'm not made of money, so that's a 'no thanks' for me. :P
Can I replace marine RV batteries with these on my rig which has solar charging built in? If so, is it possible to replace one or must you replace both (of 2 total); eg, compatible in combination with lead acid?
If you're wiring them together in parallel or series, you definitely do not want to combine old with new. And definitely do not want to combine LFP with SLA due to their significantly different charge and discharge characteristics.
How would you compare it to the Power Queen 12.8 100 Ah lithium battery ? Im trying to decide on some batteries to power my 30 am rv. I have just over 1600 watts of solar and a 3000 watt inverter.
I think these 2 are nearly identical as far as I can tell. I'd go with whichever one you can find the best deal on. I will say that the Timeusb 100Ah I reviewed in this video seems to be currently out of stock...so that might impact your decision. :P
Sorry Phillip! Yeah, I know that's a problem. I've lately been trying to pose that question (what regions does your distribution channel support?) when evaluating products for review. It's very hit or miss, it seems (and mostly 'miss').
You can definitely leave them fully charged. The common 'best practices' is to store them at around 60% (depends on who you ask) to keep the cells in a low state of stress to prolong their useful life. But I'm not sure it makes THAT big a difference (again, kind of depends on who you ask). I don't stress about it, personally, unless I know a battery is not going to get used for months at a time - in which case I will draw the charge down to around 80% before I put them way.
good deal has to 4 cells in there.. i got a different battery and has a bunch of small size D about maybe 40 to 60 cells and its bit heavy ..i only get 92ah back in it after charging when it says 100ah... might have to get this... good find good deal
Amazon. Here's the one I have: amzn.to/3jubP3L Alibaba has them as well, if that's more convenient. My only complaint about it is that the max you can get out of it is about 180W. Higher than that and it will shut-down on you. But it suits my purposes well-enough. :)
here's the one I currently use (in the video): amzn.to/3Hvd0JY Works well, but does have a hard cut-off at 180W (even though it says 150W). So just be aware of that.
Welp I figured I would have a go at the cheaper 50AH version for a golf cart bought 3 .... old EZ Go. 1 blew up within a mile on a small hill pull and vented/smoked for hours. For what its worth do not use the smaller version for golf carts, didn't try the 100ah yet was trying a budget build which turned into an almost disaster.
Thanks for sharing your Golf Cart experience. I'm not an expert on that application by any measure, but I've read that when using Lithium batteries with most Golf Carts, you'll probably need a governor installed to limit current draw - even when using 100Ah batteries with a 100A continuous discharge rating. Since you were using only 50Ah batteries rated for 50A continuous, I'm guessing that's where your experiment may have gone off the rails.
the battery seems to exceed its own maximums A+ in my book. The weird thing is the 12.8 voltage labeled on the battery. Nominal voltage for LIFEPO4 should be about 13.2 volts. Sometimes the Chinese put weird stuff on their products which makes little to no sense.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors I picked one up on eBay for 167.19 I should have bought 2 but I don't need any more batteries right now but at this price, it was hard to resist.
Thanks for the review. How can I find out if the WFCO WF-8735-P Black 30 Amp Power Center in my 2022 Grand Design travel trailer will charge this battery correctly?
I'm guessing not, since they have a different model for Lithium chemistries: WF-8700-AD Power Center. That said, it MIGHT be possible to configure to work with LFP chem, but you'd have to contact their support team to find out for certain.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Thanks for the reply. I did email both the battery mfr. and the converter/charger mfr. They both confirmed that the WF-8735-P will only charge Lithium to 85% but the WF-8700-AD will auto detect the Lithium and charge to 100%. Also watched another video where this brand Lithium battery was disassembled and the reviewer made it sound like they were using used cells. But still with a 5 year warranty. Very confusing. But I am learning much more about RV batteries.
in reality a lot of the cost of r and d even setup of the manufacturing should be amortized so prices are comming down but the one top brand still getting premium prices no longer justified
Have you tested the Weize 100ah battery with your wattsamagiger Flux capacitor meter? I have 5 of those batteries. They are also ofter $299....and their battery doesn't blind me.l😂
The discount code is "David", but it only works on timeusbpower.com There's a promo code box when you go to check it. I just tested it and it seems to bring the price down to $259.19 before tax.
Something is not right about all these cheap 100ah batteries we see now. When compared to a 30ah battery of the same chemistry which are unchanged in years they weigh about the same. It should weigh around 100 lbs. Can someone explain that?
Not sure what you're referring to here. If you look at a typical 50Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 battery, it weighs about 12 lbs. Pretty much exactly half the weight of the same battery in a 100Ah capacity.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors okay, possibly I was looking at some incorrect information. Some batteries are using a different rating system. Not sure if it's intentionally misleading or not. Battery capacity of the battery group vs rated capacity.
In my manual, one of the first configurations was wired incorrectly. I can't remember which one it was, and I can't find the manual. Just be aware that there is one configuration where the picture does not match the text.
my 12v 200ah 200BMSTIMEUSB PLUS is arriving today its a plus not pro the plus has the 200BMS the pro has the 100bms hope it last at least past 5 yrs im a but leary as many things from China fail quickly after purchase
Lately, I've noticed RUclips prices are never available. Apparently things change a bit too fast in the cyberworld. Maybe the fact there are no rules has something to do with it.
Well...sure...and they typically cost upwards of 2x more. So from my perspective, it's a lot like agreeing to pay double (or more) for an extended warranty plan.
Grade a cells because they put out rated capacity??? Not!!! That means nothing if your not looking at the cells, they could have old cells in there that were 120 ah new.
*I'm in the market for a battery. This information was very helpful. I see a few people in the comments with some experience with this battery also. I may have to try out this battery.* Dexterous X
Just bought 3 of these, a 2500 watt inverter, 40a solar charge controller with bluetooth monitoring, and an air fryer and instant pot. Making all of my own cables, with slightly over-gauged wires, and using lots of circuit breakers. Looking forward to camping in my mini van soon and trying it all out! I have 5 portable 120w solar panels, but I'll get one or two fixed ones for the van roof. This is definitely a fun hobby. :)
What brand solar panels did you get?
@@knight2255 Bruun 120 watt portable panels on Amazon. They're like $114. Kind of an odd, but cool design, with USB ports, 5.5x2.1mm DC output that produces about 24-25 volts. You can't wire these panels in series though, if that matters to you. But they're rugged, nice looking.
Update on use?
@@thetoolmat8632 Haven't been camping yet. Michigan weather finally started warming up this week, but it's actually supposed to snow on Monday. Lol.
How are the batteries doing?
What! Awww man I already bought four 100ah during black Friday deal for $305 each. Dang it. The Amazon reviews give glowing comments regarding customer service. Ty for the video and Merry Christmas!
I find it amazing that so much energy can be stored in a battery that size for that price. The climate up here in Canada has always been a detractor for LiFePO4 battery technology for an outside camper install. But for the price my interest has been kindled.
Excelent review. Hope it's 100% honest cause I'm buying one for my trolling motor.
The closest alternative for small RV's is AGM and they're 50-75% the cost of LiFePO4 while weighing almost twice as much. I'm happy to pay the extra cost for ~half the weight.
They also only have half the capacity
I am actually considering a small system for an urban apartment situation. I've got to give this more thought. Great review.
I believe the low temp worries can be solved by making a insulated box with foam board the batteries are a mass & give up a small amount of heat just by themselves, just a thought.
Yeah agreed. As long as they are getting charge and/or discharging at least to some degree, that setup should protect them in most circumstances.
Impressive if the cells are grade A! I spent $300 for just 4 sets of 100Ah LiFEPO4 batteries in April 2021, that's without a BMS! Now I can get both the BMS and 100Ah LFP battery for $280 shipped? Hot damn!
May i ask a question...What brand of lithium batteries with out the bms did you buy and where would I be able to find those non bms batteries...thank
Nice review - thanks for taking the time to go over these.
Don't LifePo4 batteries allow charging at a reduced rate (10~20 AH) at temps well below freezing? They just don't wan't you jamming max current into them when cold? Seems like I read that somewhere..
Are there chargers that have built in cold protection?
Sorry for all the questions but I'm a newb.
Hey man! Thanks for question! The general rule for LiFePO4 is you can CHARGE down to 32F, but you can DISCHARGE down to -4F. Most decent Solar Charge Controllers will have some kind of temperature limit where they'll throw an error code and stop charging when they reach 32F - but this only helps you if the CC and the batteries are operating in the same ambient temp, so it IS nice to have low-temp cut-off protections directly on the battery, just in case. On the other hand, none of my AC chargers have low-temp protections - so I suspect that's not something that common in AC chargers.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Thanks!
I'm checking battery prices and notice that they are now dropping steadily. Even this Timeusb is on sale for $299 which is an outstanding price looks like they are dropping further as so many competitors are out now
How about your list for best 12v LiFePo4 battery. Good video
Just bought a 2 pack. I believe that this young company is trying to make a name for itself ....and FAST.
Hi. Great video. Can you connect a battery like this directly to your motorhome and replace the old style of battery. My motorhome is a 2010 Hymer with the older style alternator and not the new smart alternator.
Hmm, very similar to Redodo in packaging, manual and the nice styrofoam to secure it in the shipping box. Wow, you put it through the paces and she still was cranking. Thanks for sharing this video all your videos are a big help.
I just got a 12V Redodo in a few days ago for testing and review. It is MASSIVE. Should have that video out in a few weeks. So far, so good. :)
Interesting. They have the same address as LiTime in Hong Kong. Is there just one company pumping out cheap batteries under different brand names?
Do you consider that BMS allowing so much more than 100 amps to be good or bad? Personally, I would prefer that the BMS stop output much sooner, to protect the cells. The data sheet from Shenzen shows that those cells should not exceed 1C for charge or discharge. The BMS was allowing 2C for much longer than it should have, in my opinion.
Yeah, I'm going to do some additional testing on that to try and understand how it actually behaves. In any case, putting a 200A breaker on the main positive would be a solution, but would be nice to have the BMS performing the first line of defense and the breaker as a secondary.
I reached out to TimeUSB for an explanation and here's a summary of their response: The BMS uses High-Temp protection to shut-down protect the BMS and the cells, so in a cool environment (like my testing area in an unheated basement) the internal temp rises more slowly and the battery can be run for longer periods at higher current draws. They also said that they use cells that are capable of running continuously at a 200A load without causing damage...BUT they don't advise customers to do that as it could negatively impact overall battery life if done regularly - so the manual states a much lower continous max current at 100A to promote the longest possible product life.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors - That's an interesting response. I guess that means the fets are actually capable of 200A (as your video shows) and would keep right on delivering that much power, if the high temp sensor were to fail or something was actively cooling it. I come from an IT background, where failover and redundancy are the name of the game, so relying on the temp sensor is a single point of failure that makes me nervous. (Also been playing drums for 40 years, so I'd say we have a few things in common.)
@Jason Broom ha! Nice! Yeah I have an IT background as well. :😜
Great question and interesting answer from Timeusb.
how many in series or parallel ? you dont seem worried the bms didnt work(thats the whole point of a bms, to stop your battery from killing its self) or they disconnected it .
Up to 4 on series or parallel and 16 total in a 4S4P config. I'm actually doing some additional testing on the BMS to try and get a clearer picture of what's going on there. I'll post results soon.
Great review, thanks! Do you know if the BMS is this battery is constantly balancing the voltage between the cells? I'm thinking about buying this and keeping it charged around 90%, but worry about the battery cells coming out of balance with each other... especially if I'm not fully charging it and cycling it from time to time.
Hmmm That's a good question! I'm not 100% certain. I'd run that past their tech support via email and see what they say.
Is that not what a BMS does 😊
So we just don't know if the BMS works or not. Shouldn't it have tripped after you got over 1280 watts?
I actually reached out to TimeUSB about this for clarification. Seems this is by design. To summarize their response: The BMS uses High-Temp protection to shut-down protect the BMS and the cells, so in a cool environment (like my testing area in an unheated basement) the internal temp rises more slowly and the battery can be run for longer periods at higher current draws. They also said that they use cells that are capable of running continuously at a 200A load without causing damage...BUT they don't advise customers to do that as it could negatively impact overall battery life if done regularly - so the manual states a much lower continous max current at 100A to promote the longest possible product life.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors OK, that makes sense. Thanks for the update.
GREAT info, looking to power a 48v max. 220a (20hp equivalent) outboard just purchased from Golden Motor, having tough time deciding on what battery to purchase.
i bought the 100amp sturdy whic is rated at 110amps and 1408watts i got 115amp out of the battery i went to buy another already stopped making them
Great review, thanks ❤
Thank you, my friend!
Is this a deep cycle battery are is that not used in lithium batteries?
I have three 100 amp batteries, they are okay. Difficult to keep three balanced! Redodo batteries are easier to balance three or more!
I'm New to off grid camping. I also live close to you. I was wondering with having a 3000 watt inverter, I would like to run 2 small window units in the evening for 32ft. camper and maybe a fan , each window unit is a 5000 btu a/c and a fan with small tv. If i had 2 litium 100 ah paralleled fully charged how long could those items be ran at one time. the only thing i have as of now is the 3000 watt fit4life brand inverter. Daytime i have a 3000 watt generator inverter quiet type. Any help with a limited budget in mind would be great. Thank you
Hey KRD - sorry I just now saw your comment (sometimes RUclips is weird with what comments it lists in my feed and I frequently miss comments that I'd otherwise response to). Anyway - a typical 5000 btu AC unit will pull around 500W continuous while the compressor is running. And so there's a fair amount of variability in average Wh consumption depending on...well...all the things you'd expect (outside temp, inside temp, setpoint temp, insulation, efficiency of the unit). So to estimate, we'd have to make some assumptions. So for example, if we assume the compressors on both units will run about 50% of the time with the fans blowing continually, I'd guess you'd see something like 375Wh capacity consumed by each AC unit per hour = ~750Wh/hour Putting 2 of these batteries in parallel would get you around 2300Wh of usable capacity (factoring in a 10% loss from Inverter). So that'd only get you about 3 hours of runtime for just the AC units (which are obviously the heaviest load). The TV might draw 75-100Wh per hour and the fan only maybe 40-60Wh per hour. Hope that helps! :)
Good review!
I have 2 battle burns in parallel. Could I add this for a third battery safely?
could you maybe make a video of your testers and other gadgets for the lithium batteries and short explanation what they are used for ?
thanks
So then BMS is not functioning properly, it seems? Is it misconfigured? Should it not turn off if exposed to this kind of load for that long? Is it possible to actually damage batteries?
Most of these batteries are cheaply made most of them are scams they advertise lithium iron when it's actually lithium ion be aware usually the ones that are $250-400 are usually scams, most of these batteries are taken apart by other RUclips reviewers
Nice. Good video.
Do you have to have a specific inverter type to operate correctly with this battery?
Any 12V Inverter up to 1000W would be fine with this battery. You COULD also get away up to a 2000W inverter, but if you end up trying to use the full 2000W, you could trip the BMS protection on the battery, and just generally put more stress on the battery cells, potentially reducing their long-term service life, so just be aware of that. Also, I'd recommend pure-sinewave instead of 'modified sinewave' to ensure it can safely power anything you'd normally plug into a wall outlet.
It's odd that the company says NOT for golf carts, or trolling motors?? How does the battery know what is using it's energy? I can understand not for starting engines, but trolling motors or golf carts?
I'm also a little surprised by the trolling motors part....But golf carts can frequently pull more than the 100A BMS limitation on this battery without putting a limiter on the golf cart to prevent that. There's a reason that batteries marketed as 'golf cart' batteries are more expensive - because those are designed to handle the high-current draw for that application. I wonder on the trolling motor thing if they've had issues with them being used some sub-set of trolling motors that might pull more current and trip the BMS over-current protection as a result and so they just now say they shouldn't be used for ANY trolling motor. Not sure...
Battery costs are coming down by 18% a year on average for the past decade. By the time you have to replace one of these batteries they will be less than half the cost. Even if the BMS dies on you the likelihood is the cells are perfectly fine and you can cut the top open and replace the bms with a matching unit.
The simplest test to see if the batteries are old is to test each cell, they should reach 3.6v fully charged, 14.4v for 4s. 3.2v is the cut off discharged voltage and 12.8v for 4s. If it has lower voltage cells they make 5s parallel packs or sell it with a lower voltage.
2.2v per cell is the lowest safe voltage when they are end of life, any lower and risk reverse polarity if the battery is blocked with dendrites.
You can never stay ahead of Tech and Prices.😢
@@stevecarlisle3323 They are getting cheaper but inflation might affect the old tech prices and keep prices up.
I keep going back and forth with this brand. Will Prowse wasn't super positive in his review but not overly critical either. Amazon listing: "12V100Ah Pro LiFePO4 battery has a lifespan of approximately 10 years and 4000+ life cycles with 100% DOD." Warranty is 5 years. They haven't even been selling for 5 years so I'm hesitant on the warranty... I do have the small 3ah version and although it's seen little use, I don't have any problems with it.
Yeah, those are all fair points. For me, I compare something like this to the something premium like the BattleBorne at about 3x the price, and I'll take this one all day long. Yeah, the Battleborne has a 10 year warranty, but you're paying 3x more up front for that 'extended warranty'. I'm not made of money, so that's a 'no thanks' for me. :P
Can I replace marine RV batteries with these on my rig which has solar charging built in? If so, is it possible to replace one or must you replace both (of 2 total); eg, compatible in combination with lead acid?
If you're wiring them together in parallel or series, you definitely do not want to combine old with new. And definitely do not want to combine LFP with SLA due to their significantly different charge and discharge characteristics.
How would you compare it to the Power Queen 12.8 100 Ah lithium battery ? Im trying to decide on some batteries to power my 30 am rv. I have just over 1600 watts of solar and a 3000 watt inverter.
I think these 2 are nearly identical as far as I can tell. I'd go with whichever one you can find the best deal on. I will say that the Timeusb 100Ah I reviewed in this video seems to be currently out of stock...so that might impact your decision. :P
Hi I really enjoy your videos but can you recommend some batterys that are available in the UK please.
Sorry Phillip! Yeah, I know that's a problem. I've lately been trying to pose that question (what regions does your distribution channel support?) when evaluating products for review. It's very hit or miss, it seems (and mostly 'miss').
Is it ok to leave fully charged or do you have to keep them at under 80 % ?
You can definitely leave them fully charged. The common 'best practices' is to store them at around 60% (depends on who you ask) to keep the cells in a low state of stress to prolong their useful life. But I'm not sure it makes THAT big a difference (again, kind of depends on who you ask). I don't stress about it, personally, unless I know a battery is not going to get used for months at a time - in which case I will draw the charge down to around 80% before I put them way.
Will a rv converter charge this battery
good deal has to 4 cells in there.. i got a different battery and has a bunch of small size D about maybe 40 to 60 cells and its bit heavy ..i only get 92ah back in it after charging when it says 100ah... might have to get this... good find good deal
Nice! This might be the one to replace the old 12V lead-acid that’s in my pop-up….
They have a 220ah battery now with a metal case, Im hoping someone reviews it quick I want to order a couple!
I asked for a similar $279 model for Xmas. Glad it’s performing well. Also where do you get a tester like you have?
Amazon. Here's the one I have: amzn.to/3jubP3L Alibaba has them as well, if that's more convenient. My only complaint about it is that the max you can get out of it is about 180W. Higher than that and it will shut-down on you. But it suits my purposes well-enough. :)
Could you please provide an Amazon link to the battery load tester you used? Thank you sir.
here's the one I currently use (in the video): amzn.to/3Hvd0JY Works well, but does have a hard cut-off at 180W (even though it says 150W). So just be aware of that.
Can I use this for car audio?
Welp I figured I would have a go at the cheaper 50AH version for a golf cart bought 3 .... old EZ Go. 1 blew up within a mile on a small hill pull and vented/smoked for hours. For what its worth do not use the smaller version for golf carts, didn't try the 100ah yet was trying a budget build which turned into an almost disaster.
Thanks for sharing your Golf Cart experience. I'm not an expert on that application by any measure, but I've read that when using Lithium batteries with most Golf Carts, you'll probably need a governor installed to limit current draw - even when using 100Ah batteries with a 100A continuous discharge rating. Since you were using only 50Ah batteries rated for 50A continuous, I'm guessing that's where your experiment may have gone off the rails.
the battery seems to exceed its own maximums A+ in my book. The weird thing is the 12.8 voltage labeled on the battery. Nominal voltage for LIFEPO4 should be about 13.2 volts. Sometimes the Chinese put weird stuff on their products which makes little to no sense.
The 'rested' voltage of these batteries is about 13.5V. But, pretty much all the brands label LiFePO4 as 12.8V, or even just 12V.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors regardless, these batteries numbers are very impressive
Could it be that the 12.8 volts label denotes that the battery will maintain at least 12.8 volts until bms cuts off.
@@truetexan7755 it could be im guessing manual knows for sure
@@ReeWrayOutdoors I picked one up on eBay for 167.19 I should have bought 2 but I don't need any more batteries right now but at this price, it was hard to resist.
Thanks for the review. How can I find out if the WFCO WF-8735-P Black 30 Amp Power Center in my 2022 Grand Design travel trailer will charge this battery correctly?
I'm guessing not, since they have a different model for Lithium chemistries: WF-8700-AD Power Center. That said, it MIGHT be possible to configure to work with LFP chem, but you'd have to contact their support team to find out for certain.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Thanks for the reply. I did email both the battery mfr. and the converter/charger mfr. They both confirmed that the WF-8735-P will only charge Lithium to 85% but the WF-8700-AD will auto detect the Lithium and charge to 100%. Also watched another video where this brand Lithium battery was disassembled and the reviewer made it sound like they were using used cells. But still with a 5 year warranty. Very confusing. But I am learning much more about RV batteries.
@@tomparker6470 Would you please post a link to that disassembly? Tnx
in reality a lot of the cost of r and d even setup of the manufacturing should be amortized so prices are comming down but the one top brand still getting premium prices no longer justified
It costs nearly nothing to add the low temp cutoff. The sensors are pennies and the BMS is already able to use the input.
Have you tested the Weize 100ah battery with your wattsamagiger Flux capacitor meter? I have 5 of those batteries. They are also ofter $299....and their battery doesn't blind me.l😂
Ha! I've not reached out to them (nor they to me) so I haven't yet. Maybe at some point this year. My guess is there's not much difference.
What group size is this battery?
Video idea: how to use one of these batteries to extend the uptime of a Solar power station by wiring it to input via the solar charging ports.
I'm actually working on that today!! Haha
where is your discount code????
The discount code is "David", but it only works on timeusbpower.com There's a promo code box when you go to check it. I just tested it and it seems to bring the price down to $259.19 before tax.
What's weird is it's TimeUSB but it's LimeUSB hence the citrus wedge. Who needs a trademark?
HAHA Yeah, these brand names are getting STRANGE!! :P
The same battery here in Europe with Amazon 379 euro, a little bit disappointed.
Does battery come with charger
No, I don't think any of these 'drop-in replacements' do. But all of these brands do sell them as an option.
Do you think these can be used in golf cart applications?
I'd say probably not, since I THINK (and I'm not experienced in this area) most golf cart power systems are 36V or 48V.
Check VATRER for golf cart batteries, you will be surprised.
Maybe there is no propper BMS?
Something is not right about all these cheap 100ah batteries we see now.
When compared to a 30ah battery of the same chemistry which are unchanged in years they weigh about the same. It should weigh around 100 lbs.
Can someone explain that?
Not sure what you're referring to here. If you look at a typical 50Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 battery, it weighs about 12 lbs. Pretty much exactly half the weight of the same battery in a 100Ah capacity.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors okay, possibly I was looking at some incorrect information. Some batteries are using a different rating system. Not sure if it's intentionally misleading or not.
Battery capacity of the battery group vs rated capacity.
In my manual, one of the first configurations was wired incorrectly.
I can't remember which one it was, and I can't find the manual.
Just be aware that there is one configuration where the picture does not match the text.
my 12v 200ah 200BMSTIMEUSB PLUS is arriving today its a plus not pro the plus has the 200BMS the pro has the 100bms hope it last at least past 5 yrs im a but leary as many things from China fail quickly after purchase
Lately, I've noticed RUclips prices are never available. Apparently things change a bit too fast in the cyberworld. Maybe the fact there are no rules has something to do with it.
Now the price in oct. nov. 2023 was under $200 ea. I bought 8.
you said the same thing about the power queen just before this video.
Never connect the positive last always first and it won’t spark.
5 years?? I seen 10 year warranty and some 12
Well...sure...and they typically cost upwards of 2x more. So from my perspective, it's a lot like agreeing to pay double (or more) for an extended warranty plan.
Grade a cells because they put out rated capacity??? Not!!! That means nothing if your not looking at the cells, they could have old cells in there that were 120 ah new.
Current Amazon Price $206
I heard this video and thought it was Father Mulcahy from Mash
LOL, that's a new one!
The cells in that battery probably came out of a 7 year old Prius.
Looking at my Li Time manual...
I see copied graphics lol.
I wish I understood this
dont lose 5them
be nice if your link went to the right product lol
Hmmm works for me. Are you outside the US?
No issues for me I'm on it right now
@@ReeWrayOutdoors uk
junk,. open up and see inside.
*I'm in the market for a battery. This information was very helpful. I see a few people in the comments with some experience with this battery also. I may have to try out this battery.* Dexterous X
Currently $265 ea. if bought as a 4 pack