As a palette I use a clipboard, slightly bigger than A4, and baking sheet paper that I fasten to it [the clipboard]. There are dirt cheap baking sheet papers, both white and brown/ocra coloured. They are made to be grease resistant so they work really great with oil paints, just don’t mix too hard with the edges of the palette knife (in an angle, like cutting) or you will eventually make the paper coarse, possibly even tear.
I use a tempered glass shelf from a refrigerator. I think it was recomended by draw mix paint. Easy to clean, and you can put whatever colour you want underneath, white, black, midtone. Edit: Oh he mentioned that anyways... Oh well :)
For those wanting to go solvent free or to minimise solvent use I use inexpensive vegetable oil from the grocery store to clean my brushes follwed by dish soap and water. It does a good job and it you leave a small amount of soap in the brush you can reshape them so they dry and hold their form...just be sure to clean it out before you paint the next painting.
Carl the grocery store oil has a B Vitamin in it to prevent spoilage. You do not want to ever leave any of it in your brush. It will prevent your paint from oxidizing.
@@malcolmgaissert3619 Yes thank you for bringing that up but when followed up with diah soap and water the oil residues are removed. I simply find it an inexpensive and non toxic way to clean them.
I bought an old glass computer desk unit from a charity shop. £5.00. I use the top for a pallette and the slide out shelf for bits and pieces. Its on wheels too.
I take the glass and back board from photo frames and secure it all round with electrician insulation tape lol. Cheap easily replaced and can have various sizes.
In the beginning I ruined three palettes, and after a long hiatus, I bought a dozen. I’m still on the first palette three years later. The most useful purchase were of two French box easels. They are versatile, can be used as a desk, storage, and can be used together to make a work bench or an easel large paintings. Plus, two box easels with drawers were cheaper than one small desk with drawers.
I have a few regrets that have accumulated. Water-mixable oil paints - I believed for years that normal oil paints were very toxic, and I started with these. Regret because they are too expensive and used with medium, the process is hardly different to normal oil paints. I then researched whether normal oil paints were poisonous, and then found out that the majority of them weren't. Likewise, I then researched whether they work with water mixable medium, and the result was that it worked. How do I get them out of the brushes after painting? The answer was, like when washing your hands, if oil and other grease sticks to your hands then use water and soap. Actually logical, but for years I assumed that these could only be cleaned with turpentine, for whatever reason. Why did I buy these expensive special oil paints in the first place? When the colours were almost all gone, I bought new oil paints and water-mixable linseed oil and media. The only thing I regret is that I didn't get to paint as much as I had hoped, and that the colours were offered cheaper three months later than I bought them. Zinc White from Georgian Daler Rowney - yellows strongly and leads to cracking. I then quickly bought a private label titanium white from an art store as a replacement. No cracks, still yellowed a bit, later van Gogh and Winton titanium white works better. Lamp black and ivory black Georgian Daler Rowney take forever to oxidize. With putty medium, it's OK. Artisan impasto medium. It's just lying around, I thought I needed it for impasto, but the colours are thick enough from Georgian. It's been lying around here ever since, it was also more expensive than a tube of Georgian. Artisan medium Since I started using putty medium I hardly need it any more and I think it contains thinner after I looked at the data sheet. I should have done that beforehand. I have only used it extremely rarely.
Since a sheet of glass typically has sharp edges and tends to break if not careful, I've been using a flat metal gray cookie sheet 14"x16" with rounded corners. Love mixing color on the gray and it cleans up as easy as glass. I use to make my own wooden palettes using a templet from a store bought. I brushed several coats of clear acrylic on them to make them easier to scrape. Always had one ready to go. The aggravation of having to clean hard paint just before painting is awful. Getting dried buggers in your paint is awful. Most galleries will not even consider an artist if they see brush hairs or buggers in a finished painting. I still use my wooden palettes on the last finishing details because I'm fiscally moving around so much. When I see paintbrush storing devices, l'm like WTF! Put your preferred paint brush cleaner in a simple plastic coffee can and hang it off the bottom of your easel with a coat hanger. Store your 50-100 used brushes in a freaking simple empty cans. Don't be pissing around with neatness and care while you should be concentrating on creating and painting. Hell, when a palette knife or brush drops on the floor, I kick it to the side and keep painting. Sure, give your brushes a good cleaning with soap and water ever so often. But paint and paint and paint until your'e staggering around totally spent. That's how you learn to paint. Paint like a very kind warrior! I'm on my way to the store, look in the mirror and I have a glob of red Cad. in my beard below my mouth and a spot of Prussian blue on my temple. I'm like hell no, I got to turn round and go wash this shit off. But yeah, don't be afraid of getting dirty and stop thinking so much! Your'e just the vehicle,, allow art to have it's way with you!
This is the best video on this topic I've seen so far. Agree with all of it. The only supply I've bought so far that I regret and have given away is a brush holder that keeps your brushes bristle end down, which is why I bought it. But it's too difficult and clumsy to get the brushes in and out while you're working. Who wants to take the time to fiddle like that in the midst of painting? Much easier to make your own brush rest, like you did, or something similar. Easy and quick to pick up the brush you want and put it down, with the bristles slightly angled down. There are a million easy, low cost or free ways to do it. I keep my bristles resting in a shallow dish of oil, with the handles slightly elevated.
@@FlorentFargesarts The one I got was plexiglass with 10 silicone holders. But the same thing as with the spring brush holders, too hard to get them in and out while you're working! Thanks again for your video!
Re disposable palettes: An artist that I know personally recommended using them for when you're working on multiple multi-layer paintings. You can store the palette next to the unfinished painting, so that you know exactly what shades you used when you need to continue, or need to touch something up etc.
Thanks Florent ! I think the waste of money could be painting with professional grade paints but using a non professional canvas. Good quality of canvas are very expensive. Do you have some advices about wood panels, which ones to choose?
Hello Florent, thanks for sharing this valuable info.. I have learned many tricks from you.. i stopped using any colour that says hue after I realised there is huge difference in hues and actual pigment.. the steel pallet knife was new thing for me. I am still using turpentine but now thinking to give up on it, it has strong smell..
I am new-ish to oils. I don't know much about them, but I did end up buyuing some oil and water soluable oils when a store had a big clearance. Due to allergies, I use walnut oil as medium and solvent and then castile soap and water. I think I am going to look into painting on a board soon. I don't like oils on canvas.
Aaahhh if only I knew some of these things 2 weeks ago! Ah well, still enough great "don't-buy-advices" left in this video for my upcoming oil paint shopping sprees :) You're a great motivator and teacher, merci!!
After taking a couple of years off from oil to focus on mastering acrylics, I've recently come back to oil with fresh eyes. Instead to just breaking out the supplies I already have, I started fresh with Cobra water soluble paints and Arches oil paper. The experience so far has been great - it's a fresh approach from what I used to do and much, much easier to clean / stay safe. For decades, I painted on canvas or panel with thin layers of oil, especially using much Liquin and using alkyds oils over the underpainting. I was never interested in trying water soluble oils until someone gave me some tubes of the Cobra paints and I've been thrilled to return to oils this way (the early water soluble oils were more for hobbyist than serious painters.) Also, after spending so much time with acrylics, the transition to water soluble oils was easy and I didn't feel like I was giving anything up - in fact, I'd say it feels more like getting the best of both worlds.
Вы совершенно правы, самая лучшая экономия это работать с высокопигментированными натуральными красками, любые имитации это большой расход и низкая интенсивность цвета как в процессе написания так и в дальнейшем, вызывает огромные вопросы к сохранности ваших картин.❤
To me, the little wooden mannequins were a huge waste of money! They're advertised as being handy for "realistic poses", but all you can really do is bend the elbows and knees *slightly* and maybe turn around the hands and feet. I stupidly thought I got a faulty one and tried buying another at a different art store. Sigh, huge waste of $9.00...)(lol, good thing I got the smaller one! The bigger ones were like, $20.00 Huge ripoff.) It's not all bad, I made little fairy wings for it and keep it in a simple ballet pose (The only pose I can get out of it ^_^0) on my desk as a novelty.
Today, I barely refrained from purchasing the Redgrass Studio XL Wet Palette and Glass XL Palette. I realized I already have homemade palettes that serve the same functions. The same goes for brushes advertised specifically for miniature painting.. I just need to test whether the brushes I already have are suitable.. if they are, then there's no need for new ones.
I think a best comparision would be Genuine Naples Yellow Light (MH) PY41, Cadmium Yellow light (MH) PY35, and Nickel-Titanium Yellow (Wbrg) PY53 And for lemon colours , Lemon Yellow (MH) PY31( its really Chrome yellow), Cadmium Yellow Lemon PY35 (MH), Nickel-Titanium Yellow (OH) PY53
What are your medium ingredients? Mine are ... Stand oil, Damar varnish, and hardware store Turpentine; and a couple drops of Cobalt Lineolate Drier. Damar the least and more turp than stand oil.
I mix a medium of stand oil for quicker drying, linseed oil for bulk, and a touch of lavender spike oil to thin it down a touch so its not so thick. The lavender spike oil is non-toxic and smells nice. Great alternative to that citrus stuff.
I bought COLD WAX to try but later discovered that when the old masters used it, centuries later, the varnish couldn't be removed for restoration or cleaning because the wax in the paint would dissolve - so probably not archival 😮
I find myself not using any terpentine for a while now... I do love liquin though, what is your opinion on that medium? I clean with paper towels and soap. I use tear off palettes becouse I can put them easily with the already mixed paint in the freezer for next time.
I've switched to Cobra water soluble oils and have been experimenting with the fast drying medium. It has similar properties to liquin - maybe it's more like a liquin and blending medium mixed together. It has no smell and is cleaned up with just water, so I'm really liking it. It seems like it takes longer to get tacky and stays workable much longer, but still dries completely in about a day. Liquin has a strong smell, especially when used the way I do to make many, many layers of glaze over the whole painting. Also, it seems to be sooooooo much easier to get the brushes clean after using the Cobra quick dry medium vs. liquin.
Comparing cadmium yellow medium hue as if it should be the same color as cadmium yellow lemon is intellectually dishonest - yellow medium is not the same as yellow lemon. On a color wheel cadmium lemon is ever so slightly more toward green from a true yellow where as cadmium yellow medium is fairly more toward orange comparably. It isn't the less expensive chemical pigment which the word 'hue' denotes that makes the drastic color difference between the two. I suggest buying a copy of 'Yellow and Blue Don't Make Green' or any other in depth color mixing guide.
@@crypton_8l87 Dude, relax. Understanding how pigment colors differ is important if you are going to be mixing up colors to match, the content creator ignored the difference of the two distinctly different colors so I pointed that out. If you are doing anything other than realism, don't worry about it, do your own thing, there is more than one way to make a grey.
I don’t know why he thinks that a hue is so much worse than the original pigment it replaces. You are right, it’s intellectually dishonest, there are good reasons to replace pigments sometimes. Of course a hue does not perform the exact same as the original pigment, nobody ever claimed that it does, expecting that is unfair and unreasonable.
I think you should go into more depth regarding these custom mediums that you speak of. Whats in them? why are the store bough ones actually bad? Not sure you really touched on these points.
I wondered if you have specific suggestions for dosing and applying the painting medium while paintng, I cannot dip the brush straight in to the bottle the medium came with because that pollutes the whole bottle with colour. Do you use small pans? But would that mean the medium dries out quickly? I'd like to learn your ideas in this regard,
Thanks! Interested in your suggestions for non-toxic thinner and mediums… I use Sennelier’s green for oil, no complaints so far, but what are the alternatives?
I use Lavender Spike Oil. Cleans my brushes well, can be mixed with other oils, non-toxic, and it fills my studio with the aroma of lavender. I mix a medium of stand oil for quicker drying, linseed oil for bulk, and a touch of lavender spike oil to thin it down a touch so its not so thick.
There are other non toxic options too, I've been using Sennelier's green for oil as well basically for the initials washes and I am going to try the other options too just for comparison, like Lavender Spike Oil or Zest-it paint dilutant or the new Miracle Medium from MH. I did notice that with these non-toxic thinners the drying time is slower, but I believe it doesn't really matter that much if you are an `alla prima` oil painter. As a medium I personally just use walnut oil.
Dont wash your brushes at all...walnut oil in a slightly inclined cutlery tray from kmart. Two trays , 6 hue sections + oil to soak in and just wipe the brush with a rag.
About 4 years ago he did an oil painting safety video! I found it by searching 😂. Basically the rule is LOTS of ventilation & if you aren’t confident about keeping paint off your skin, use gloves.
Typical waste of money: buying a starter set on sale. Generally has the cheapest pigments. Good enough if you just want to check if consistency/medium suits you but if so you'll have to buy the cadmiums, & more white asap anyway & the initial tubes will stay in the drawer.
Water mixable? Generally it is water soluble oils. Watersoluble oils are not to be mixed with water but only can be cleaned with water. So the advantage is mainly to be able to clean your brushes without solvent. For the mediums water soluble oils are included in a range with specific mediums.
@@ossi2635 it was just to say it is not recommended to mix them with water, better to use the medium if your want to change the consistency of the paint ， especially if it is for glazing.
I found out that OldHolland are not_so_old _holland...1985/86...a theo de beers bought the equipment from a defunct company and reformulated the paints.These are not old master paints, especially when they use hydrogenated castor oil. The tubes say 40 ml, but are they ? Line them up with a blockx 35 ml...😢 FAIL
Very good advice! Biggest waste of money: student grade oil paint. Period. Full stop. On a similar vein, cheap artist materials. There's a lot of poorly made supports out there. Utter garbage.
Disagree . Pallet paper is great to use and I’ve used them for years . Much cleaner to use than say glass because there’s no scraping to clean up. I use grey matter paper always .
Biggest waste of $$$, in my personal experience, is Water Miscible Oil paints and their designer mediums and designer solvents. Moving from Acrylics to oils, I thought this type of oil paint system would help me in transitioning. This was not the case for me.
@shadowstar7 I think you speak about water soluble oils, they are not to be mixed with water but give the advantage that you can wash your brushes with water avoiding solvents. If you choose a good brand by researching the different advices, I think they are not different than traditional oils at the moment you don't mix them with water.
Water soluble oils aren't all the same. I've gone with Cobra (after decades of using regular oil and alkyd) and have been very happy with the paint and the ease of clean up. The Cobra mediums have been very good also.
Really did not say much here. Would like you to say more about what you are looking for in a medium. Brushes are fine just sitting in a glass jar w mineral spirits. Just say it. If you are consistently working it is ideal. If you paint once a week it is not. I must have missed the canvas part. Could have sworn you said the canvas choice was going to be a topic. I think many are keeping to themselves a finer smoother canvas is ideal rather than those rougher that fight your brush. Also don't be afraid to wipe away w cloth when you find those smoother canvases for it is a great tactic. Lots of utubers touch the top page but rarely give out the keys to success. Most of what I've seen here.
As a palette I use a clipboard, slightly bigger than A4, and baking sheet paper that I fasten to it [the clipboard]. There are dirt cheap baking sheet papers, both white and brown/ocra coloured. They are made to be grease resistant so they work really great with oil paints, just don’t mix too hard with the edges of the palette knife (in an angle, like cutting) or you will eventually make the paper coarse, possibly even tear.
I use a tempered glass shelf from a refrigerator. I think it was recomended by draw mix paint. Easy to clean, and you can put whatever colour you want underneath, white, black, midtone.
Edit: Oh he mentioned that anyways... Oh well :)
I use greaseproof paper too. Makes life easier!
For those wanting to go solvent free or to minimise solvent use I use inexpensive vegetable oil from the grocery store to clean my brushes follwed by dish soap and water. It does a good job and it you leave a small amount of soap in the brush you can reshape them so they dry and hold their form...just be sure to clean it out before you paint the next painting.
Carl the grocery store oil has a B Vitamin in it to prevent spoilage. You do not want to ever leave any of it in your brush. It will prevent your paint from oxidizing.
@@malcolmgaissert3619 Yes thank you for bringing that up but when followed up with diah soap and water the oil residues are removed. I simply find it an inexpensive and non toxic way to clean them.
And the vegetable oil will go rancid on your painting. 🤦♀️
@@RebekkaHay That is why it is followed wtth soap and water to remove oll
I bought an old glass computer desk unit from a charity shop. £5.00. I use the top for a pallette and the slide out shelf for bits and pieces. Its on wheels too.
Genius
I use a smooth floor tile as a palette about 12 x 12 inches and of a neutral color. works great and easy to clean.
I take the glass and back board from photo frames and secure it all round with electrician insulation tape lol. Cheap easily replaced and can have various sizes.
In the beginning I ruined three palettes, and after a long hiatus, I bought a dozen. I’m still on the first palette three years later. The most useful purchase were of two French box easels. They are versatile, can be used as a desk, storage, and can be used together to make a work bench or an easel large paintings. Plus, two box easels with drawers were cheaper than one small desk with drawers.
Thanks for sharing, Ana!! Love those box easels, good investment for sure!
@@FlorentFargesarts
Lol, i have not figured out how to set mine up!
@@isabeedemski3635 It is an art in itself! 🤣
True!
I have a few regrets that have accumulated.
Water-mixable oil paints - I believed for years that normal oil paints were very toxic, and I started with these.
Regret because they are too expensive and used with medium, the process is hardly different to normal oil paints.
I then researched whether normal oil paints were poisonous, and then found out that the majority of them weren't.
Likewise, I then researched whether they work with water mixable medium, and the result was that it worked.
How do I get them out of the brushes after painting?
The answer was, like when washing your hands, if oil and other grease sticks to your hands then use water and soap.
Actually logical, but for years I assumed that these could only be cleaned with turpentine, for whatever reason.
Why did I buy these expensive special oil paints in the first place?
When the colours were almost all gone, I bought new oil paints and water-mixable linseed oil and media.
The only thing I regret is that I didn't get to paint as much as I had hoped, and that the colours were offered cheaper three months later than I bought them.
Zinc White from Georgian Daler Rowney - yellows strongly and leads to cracking.
I then quickly bought a private label titanium white from an art store as a replacement.
No cracks, still yellowed a bit, later van Gogh and Winton titanium white works better.
Lamp black and ivory black Georgian Daler Rowney take forever to oxidize. With putty medium, it's OK.
Artisan impasto medium. It's just lying around, I thought I needed it for impasto, but the colours are thick enough from Georgian.
It's been lying around here ever since, it was also more expensive than a tube of Georgian.
Artisan medium
Since I started using putty medium I hardly need it any more and I think it contains thinner after I looked at the data sheet.
I should have done that beforehand.
I have only used it extremely rarely.
Since a sheet of glass typically has sharp edges and tends to break if not careful, I've been using a flat metal gray cookie sheet 14"x16" with rounded corners. Love mixing color on the gray and it cleans up as easy as glass. I use to make my own wooden palettes using a templet from a store bought. I brushed several coats of clear acrylic on them to make them easier to scrape. Always had one ready to go. The aggravation of having to clean hard paint just before painting is awful. Getting dried buggers in your paint is awful. Most galleries will not even consider an artist if they see brush hairs or buggers in a finished painting. I still use my wooden palettes on the last finishing details because I'm fiscally moving around so much.
When I see paintbrush storing devices, l'm like WTF! Put your preferred paint brush cleaner in a simple plastic coffee can and hang it off the bottom of your easel with a coat hanger. Store your 50-100 used brushes in a freaking simple empty cans. Don't be pissing around with neatness and care while you should be concentrating on creating and painting. Hell, when a palette knife or brush drops on the floor, I kick it to the side and keep painting. Sure, give your brushes a good cleaning with soap and water ever so often. But paint and paint and paint until your'e staggering around totally spent. That's how you learn to paint. Paint like a very kind warrior!
I'm on my way to the store, look in the mirror and I have a glob of red Cad. in my beard below my mouth and a spot of Prussian blue on my temple. I'm like hell no, I got to turn round and go wash this shit off. But yeah, don't be afraid of getting dirty and stop thinking so much! Your'e just the vehicle,, allow art to have it's way with you!
Great video, I know people who buy every art 'gadget' around and have wasted their money. I like to keep things simple.
Yep. Aluminum foil works fine. The non shiny side being gray works wonders.
This is the best video on this topic I've seen so far. Agree with all of it. The only supply I've bought so far that I regret and have given away is a brush holder that keeps your brushes bristle end down, which is why I bought it. But it's too difficult and clumsy to get the brushes in and out while you're working. Who wants to take the time to fiddle like that in the midst of painting? Much easier to make your own brush rest, like you did, or something similar. Easy and quick to pick up the brush you want and put it down, with the bristles slightly angled down. There are a million easy, low cost or free ways to do it. I keep my bristles resting in a shallow dish of oil, with the handles slightly elevated.
Haha, totally get it about the spring brush holder 😅. So annoying, right?
@@FlorentFargesarts The one I got was plexiglass with 10 silicone holders. But the same thing as with the spring brush holders, too hard to get them in and out while you're working! Thanks again for your video!
Re disposable palettes:
An artist that I know personally recommended using them for when you're working on multiple multi-layer paintings. You can store the palette next to the unfinished painting, so that you know exactly what shades you used when you need to continue, or need to touch something up etc.
The mannequins are necessary because you must display to the universe and random passers-by that you are an artist :D
Thanks Florent ! I think the waste of money could be painting with professional grade paints but using a non professional canvas. Good quality of canvas are very expensive. Do you have some advices about wood panels, which ones to choose?
I’m one tip in and I already saved money 😅
I love the palette glass, I use it all the time with either acrylics or oils and is really easy to clean. Also, I prefer the grey one!
Hello Florent, thanks for sharing this valuable info.. I have learned many tricks from you.. i stopped using any colour that says hue after I realised there is huge difference in hues and actual pigment.. the steel pallet knife was new thing for me. I am still using turpentine but now thinking to give up on it, it has strong smell..
I am new-ish to oils. I don't know much about them, but I did end up buyuing some oil and water soluable oils when a store had a big clearance. Due to allergies, I use walnut oil as medium and solvent and then castile soap and water. I think I am going to look into painting on a board soon. I don't like oils on canvas.
Aaahhh if only I knew some of these things 2 weeks ago! Ah well, still enough great "don't-buy-advices" left in this video for my upcoming oil paint shopping sprees :) You're a great motivator and teacher, merci!!
Thank you for your generous tips! I used pizza bases for mixing, they are free! But I learnt so much from you Good Sunday!
You should try the Michael Harding Miracle Medium, it performs exactly like a solvent and is totally worth the money. It cleans brushes instantly.
After taking a couple of years off from oil to focus on mastering acrylics, I've recently come back to oil with fresh eyes. Instead to just breaking out the supplies I already have, I started fresh with Cobra water soluble paints and Arches oil paper. The experience so far has been great - it's a fresh approach from what I used to do and much, much easier to clean / stay safe. For decades, I painted on canvas or panel with thin layers of oil, especially using much Liquin and using alkyds oils over the underpainting. I was never interested in trying water soluble oils until someone gave me some tubes of the Cobra paints and I've been thrilled to return to oils this way (the early water soluble oils were more for hobbyist than serious painters.) Also, after spending so much time with acrylics, the transition to water soluble oils was easy and I didn't feel like I was giving anything up - in fact, I'd say it feels more like getting the best of both worlds.
Biggest waste is buy student grade paints at all. Best buy are lanavanguard support
.
Вы совершенно правы, самая лучшая экономия это работать с высокопигментированными натуральными красками, любые имитации это большой расход и низкая интенсивность цвета как в процессе написания так и в дальнейшем, вызывает огромные вопросы к сохранности ваших картин.❤
Excellent advice as always Florent. Thanks for posting.
To me, the little wooden mannequins were a huge waste of money! They're advertised as being handy for "realistic poses", but all you can really do is bend the elbows and knees *slightly* and maybe turn around the hands and feet. I stupidly thought I got a faulty one and tried buying another at a different art store. Sigh, huge waste of $9.00...)(lol, good thing I got the smaller one! The bigger ones were like, $20.00 Huge ripoff.)
It's not all bad, I made little fairy wings for it and keep it in a simple ballet pose (The only pose I can get out of it ^_^0) on my desk as a novelty.
I thought Hues are good substitutes for toxic paints that hurt the environment (?). Thank you for video and some great advice here!
If you are using solvent to clean brushes and you flush it down the drain, where do you think it goes to ?
Today, I barely refrained from purchasing the Redgrass Studio XL Wet Palette and Glass XL Palette.
I realized I already have homemade palettes that serve the same functions.
The same goes for brushes advertised specifically for miniature painting..
I just need to test whether the brushes I already have are suitable.. if they are, then there's no need for new ones.
I think a best comparision would be Genuine Naples Yellow Light (MH) PY41, Cadmium Yellow light (MH) PY35, and Nickel-Titanium Yellow (Wbrg) PY53
And for lemon colours , Lemon Yellow (MH) PY31( its really Chrome yellow), Cadmium Yellow Lemon PY35 (MH), Nickel-Titanium Yellow (OH) PY53
What are your medium ingredients? Mine are ... Stand oil, Damar varnish, and hardware store Turpentine; and a couple drops of Cobalt Lineolate Drier. Damar the least and more turp than stand oil.
I mix a medium of stand oil for quicker drying, linseed oil for bulk, and a touch of lavender spike oil to thin it down a touch so its not so thick. The lavender spike oil is non-toxic and smells nice. Great alternative to that citrus stuff.
I bought COLD WAX to try but later discovered that when the old masters used it, centuries later, the varnish couldn't be removed for restoration or cleaning because the wax in the paint would dissolve - so probably not archival 😮
I find myself not using any terpentine for a while now... I do love liquin though, what is your opinion on that medium? I clean with paper towels and soap. I use tear off palettes becouse I can put them easily with the already mixed paint in the freezer for next time.
I've switched to Cobra water soluble oils and have been experimenting with the fast drying medium. It has similar properties to liquin - maybe it's more like a liquin and blending medium mixed together. It has no smell and is cleaned up with just water, so I'm really liking it. It seems like it takes longer to get tacky and stays workable much longer, but still dries completely in about a day. Liquin has a strong smell, especially when used the way I do to make many, many layers of glaze over the whole painting. Also, it seems to be sooooooo much easier to get the brushes clean after using the Cobra quick dry medium vs. liquin.
Comparing cadmium yellow medium hue as if it should be the same color as cadmium yellow lemon is intellectually dishonest - yellow medium is not the same as yellow lemon. On a color wheel cadmium lemon is ever so slightly more toward green from a true yellow where as cadmium yellow medium is fairly more toward orange comparably. It isn't the less expensive chemical pigment which the word 'hue' denotes that makes the drastic color difference between the two. I suggest buying a copy of 'Yellow and Blue Don't Make Green' or any other in depth color mixing guide.
Too obsessive. Chill
@@crypton_8l87 Dude, relax. Understanding how pigment colors differ is important if you are going to be mixing up colors to match, the content creator ignored the difference of the two distinctly different colors so I pointed that out. If you are doing anything other than realism, don't worry about it, do your own thing, there is more than one way to make a grey.
I don’t know why he thinks that a hue is so much worse than the original pigment it replaces. You are right, it’s intellectually dishonest, there are good reasons to replace pigments sometimes. Of course a hue does not perform the exact same as the original pigment, nobody ever claimed that it does, expecting that is unfair and unreasonable.
Awesome guide florent
Really useful tips. Merci Florent.
I think you should go into more depth regarding these custom mediums that you speak of. Whats in them? why are the store bough ones actually bad? Not sure you really touched on these points.
The disposable palettes are great and they absolutely laat. Youd jist keep puttinf oil paints on them and not throw out the sheet being used everyday.
Thanks!! I appreciate the information!!
I wondered if you have specific suggestions for dosing and applying the painting medium while paintng, I cannot dip the brush straight in to the bottle the medium came with because that pollutes the whole bottle with colour. Do you use small pans? But would that mean the medium dries out quickly? I'd like to learn your ideas in this regard,
Great advice! Thank you!
thank you
Thank you for the wonderful advice!
Although I did laugh when you said don't buy a little wooden man, buy a camera instead 😂
Thanks! Interested in your suggestions for non-toxic thinner and mediums… I use Sennelier’s green for oil, no complaints so far, but what are the alternatives?
I use Lavender Spike Oil. Cleans my brushes well, can be mixed with other oils, non-toxic, and it fills my studio with the aroma of lavender. I mix a medium of stand oil for quicker drying, linseed oil for bulk, and a touch of lavender spike oil to thin it down a touch so its not so thick.
There are other non toxic options too, I've been using Sennelier's green for oil as well basically for the initials washes and I am going to try the other options too just for comparison, like Lavender Spike Oil or Zest-it paint dilutant or the new Miracle Medium from MH. I did notice that with these non-toxic thinners the drying time is slower, but I believe it doesn't really matter that much if you are an `alla prima` oil painter. As a medium I personally just use walnut oil.
I use gamsol and can recommend it
@@Deutschebahn Gamsol is toxic, odorless but toxic. Use it in a ventilated environment only
Do you have a video on how to make your own medium?
7:05 my palette knife snapped off from the wood Handel 😅😂
Thank you!
Thank you very much. I use a 1 to 3 ratio of standard oil and real turp. What is your recommendation?
Dont wash your brushes at all...walnut oil in a slightly inclined cutlery tray from kmart. Two trays , 6 hue sections + oil to soak in and just wipe the brush with a rag.
What about Lavender spike oil as a solvent?
all good advice
hi! do you have a video about toxicity/heavy metals in pigments, how to configurate your work space, ventilation, dissolvents, etc?
About 4 years ago he did an oil painting safety video! I found it by searching 😂. Basically the rule is LOTS of ventilation & if you aren’t confident about keeping paint off your skin, use gloves.
@@maggie5126 ty! I'm curious about if he implemented any modifications since then :)
Are all citrus based paint thinners bad? Many artists use Gamlin Solvent-free Gel. Some use Real Milk Paint, Orange Peel Oil.
Not bad for cleaning if you want but still not as good as simply oil (to keep brushes wet overnight), or soap and water (for complete cleaning).
At least those I've tried up until this point (four or five different kinds). I only ask to be proven wrong.
Typical waste of money: buying a starter set on sale. Generally has the cheapest pigments. Good enough if you just want to check if consistency/medium suits you but if so you'll have to buy the cadmiums, & more white asap anyway & the initial tubes will stay in the drawer.
They're not citrus based & the work fine. I'm happy to have them so I don't need to use watermixable oilcolors.
Water mixable? Generally it is water soluble oils. Watersoluble oils are not to be mixed with water but only can be cleaned with water. So the advantage is mainly to be able to clean your brushes without solvent. For the mediums water soluble oils are included in a range with specific mediums.
@@Jasmine_Shelby_art The Schmincke Norma Blue are watermixable oilcolors. I thought all of the water soluble oil colors are water mixable. 🤔
@@ossi2635 it was just to say it is not recommended to mix them with water, better to use the medium if your want to change the consistency of the paint ， especially if it is for glazing.
I found out that OldHolland are not_so_old _holland...1985/86...a theo de beers bought the equipment from a defunct company and reformulated the paints.These are not old master paints, especially when they use hydrogenated castor oil. The tubes say 40 ml, but are they ? Line them up with a blockx 35 ml...😢 FAIL
I use plastic i can clean easily and use as many times as I want that's the best and cheapest scraping a glass is so much unnecessary effort
Very good advice!
Biggest waste of money: student grade oil paint. Period. Full stop.
On a similar vein, cheap artist materials. There's a lot of poorly made supports out there. Utter garbage.
Disagree . Pallet paper is great to use and I’ve used them for years . Much cleaner to use than say glass because there’s no scraping to clean up. I use grey matter paper always .
A more expensive waste of time and money are hand mannequins and even worse, horse mannequins.
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Biggest waste of $$$, in my personal experience, is Water Miscible Oil paints and their designer mediums and designer solvents. Moving from Acrylics to oils, I thought this type of oil paint system would help me in transitioning. This was not the case for me.
Stay with acrylics. Oils are so slow.
@shadowstar7
I think you speak about water soluble oils, they are not to be mixed with water but give the advantage that you can wash your brushes with water avoiding solvents. If you choose a good brand by researching the different advices, I think they are not different than traditional oils at the moment you don't mix them with water.
@@highstax_xylophones
This is one of the main reason to choose oils because they dry slow ! I love that.
As always inspiring talk Thanks 🙏
Water soluble oils aren't all the same. I've gone with Cobra (after decades of using regular oil and alkyd) and have been very happy with the paint and the ease of clean up. The Cobra mediums have been very good also.
Really did not say much here. Would like you to say more about what you are looking for in a medium.
Brushes are fine just sitting in a glass jar w mineral spirits. Just say it. If you are consistently working it is ideal. If you paint once a week it is not.
I must have missed the canvas part. Could have sworn you said the canvas choice was going to be a topic. I think many are keeping to themselves a finer smoother canvas is ideal rather than those rougher that fight your brush.
Also don't be afraid to wipe away w cloth when you find those smoother canvases for it is a great tactic.
Lots of utubers touch the top page but rarely give out the keys to success. Most of what I've seen here.
Pas cool de faire toutes vos vidéos en anglais alors que vous êtes français ! Surtout que les anglophone ont suffisamment de chaines sur la peinture !