Great video, you explain the procedures very well. Armed with information from your great video i am going to do this job with the help of a friend. Much more confident now. Thank you very much!!
I wish I'd gotten farther on the rebuild by now! This engine is still sitting on a stand in the workshop. Too many projects. Hopefully I'll get to it before the end of the year.
Great video. You rock! Thank you very much for all of the detailed steps and info. I’ll be pulling both engine and trans this winter. Getting things ready for the job now.
Sounds great. Sourcing the engine stand adapter is key, and also making or borrowing a frame expander in case you turn out to need one. Also make sure that you've accounted for how you're going to rotate the engine on the stand. Be sure the adapter rotates smoothly in the bore; don't be afraid to apply some axle grease. The transmission and bell housing weigh about 70 lbs, and the stock flywheel weighs 63 lbs. Most people find that removing the transmission and bell housing is necessary to safely manipulate the engine. I recommend doing that with some kind of assistance to support the transmission as you remove it: either get a buddy or use your shop crane. I will have a new video this fall showing the process of tearing down two engines, including stuff like how to get the studs out safely.
@@TitanBodybuilding One clarification, if you're buying a new engine stand adapter, you'll need to drill two sets of holes in it. One is for the locating pin, which inserts down through the top of the stand to hold the engine in a certain orientation. So you gotta put the adapter in your stand and then mark where to drill. Four holes (0°, 90°, 180°, 270°) should be sufficient. Then at the back end of the adapter you need to drill holes through which to insert the bar you'll use to rotate the engine. Most engine stands come with a large hollow bar for this purpose, but you may not have a drill bit big enough to match it. In that case just go buy a piece of round stock 3' long for whatever size drill bit you do have, and use that as your rotating lever. You'll appreciate the extra length.
@@alexiskaithank you. Super helpful. I’m going to pull the engine and transmission and send it out to have it built. You’ve been super helpful and it’s greatly appreciated!
There are lots of ways to remove the engine and that is one of them. My goal in the video was to establish that you can, if necessary, remove the engine and transmission virtually intact by yourself. Leaving the pedals attached did not impede the operation.
Hi Alexis. Great video. Thank you. Is it possible to separate the engine from the transmission and only pull the engine out, leaving the transmission in place? I just need to do an engine swap. Thank you.
Yes, removing only the engine is quite common and somewhat easier. I chose to show the harder version. To remove the engine, you'll need to support the transmission with something - a jack, or blocks - and then disconnect the bell housing from the flywheel housing. As you pull the engine forward and up, the splined main drive gear should slide out of the flywheel and release the engine from the transmission. Good luck!
Good video but you should have just saved yourself some time and aggrivation by removing the carb, manifolds, starter and water pump. This stuff only gets in the way. Also, separate the bell housing from the flywheel housing and pull the engine. If the transmission has to come out do that afterwards. Putting the new/rebuilt engine back in is also easier with the transmission and bell housing in the car. Just my opinion.
Why would it save me time to remove all that stuff? Then I gotta spend time unbolting it, and I might run into other problems. Most of the bolts are rusty and I'd rather fight them on the engine stand than in the car. And I don't have a transmission jack, so if I leave the transmission in place, I have to support it while it's in there and then wrangle it out of the car by myself. Other than the starter, none of those things caused me any aggravation by leaving them on.
Great video, you explain the procedures very well. Armed with information from your great video i am going to do this job with the help of a friend. Much more confident now. Thank you very much!!
I wish I'd gotten farther on the rebuild by now! This engine is still sitting on a stand in the workshop. Too many projects. Hopefully I'll get to it before the end of the year.
Great video…I really did not understand all of the operations required to get an engine out….your video made it simple to understand.
Thanks Cliff. Let me know how the frame spreader works out for you.
Great video. You rock! Thank you very much for all of the detailed steps and info. I’ll be pulling both engine and trans this winter. Getting things ready for the job now.
Sounds great. Sourcing the engine stand adapter is key, and also making or borrowing a frame expander in case you turn out to need one. Also make sure that you've accounted for how you're going to rotate the engine on the stand. Be sure the adapter rotates smoothly in the bore; don't be afraid to apply some axle grease.
The transmission and bell housing weigh about 70 lbs, and the stock flywheel weighs 63 lbs. Most people find that removing the transmission and bell housing is necessary to safely manipulate the engine. I recommend doing that with some kind of assistance to support the transmission as you remove it: either get a buddy or use your shop crane.
I will have a new video this fall showing the process of tearing down two engines, including stuff like how to get the studs out safely.
Thank you for the additional info. Super helpful as I prepare for this.
@@TitanBodybuilding One clarification, if you're buying a new engine stand adapter, you'll need to drill two sets of holes in it. One is for the locating pin, which inserts down through the top of the stand to hold the engine in a certain orientation. So you gotta put the adapter in your stand and then mark where to drill. Four holes (0°, 90°, 180°, 270°) should be sufficient. Then at the back end of the adapter you need to drill holes through which to insert the bar you'll use to rotate the engine. Most engine stands come with a large hollow bar for this purpose, but you may not have a drill bit big enough to match it. In that case just go buy a piece of round stock 3' long for whatever size drill bit you do have, and use that as your rotating lever. You'll appreciate the extra length.
@@alexiskaithank you. Super helpful. I’m going to pull the engine and transmission and send it out to have it built. You’ve been super helpful and it’s greatly appreciated!
@@TitanBodybuilding Hahaha I see, you don't need any of that engine stand info. Ah well
Helpful video, thanks!
Very informative. Thank you.
When I remove engine with Trans attached first thing is remove the brake and clutch pedals by removing a single cotter pin. just a suggestion. Kenny
There are lots of ways to remove the engine and that is one of them. My goal in the video was to establish that you can, if necessary, remove the engine and transmission virtually intact by yourself. Leaving the pedals attached did not impede the operation.
Hi Alexis. Great video. Thank you. Is it possible to separate the engine from the transmission and only pull the engine out, leaving the transmission in place? I just need to do an engine swap. Thank you.
Yes, removing only the engine is quite common and somewhat easier. I chose to show the harder version. To remove the engine, you'll need to support the transmission with something - a jack, or blocks - and then disconnect the bell housing from the flywheel housing. As you pull the engine forward and up, the splined main drive gear should slide out of the flywheel and release the engine from the transmission. Good luck!
Have you done this before the video??
Good video but you should have just saved yourself some time and aggrivation by removing the carb, manifolds, starter and water pump. This stuff only gets in the way. Also, separate the bell housing from the flywheel housing and pull the engine. If the transmission has to come out do that afterwards. Putting the new/rebuilt engine back in is also easier with the transmission and bell housing in the car. Just my opinion.
Why would it save me time to remove all that stuff? Then I gotta spend time unbolting it, and I might run into other problems. Most of the bolts are rusty and I'd rather fight them on the engine stand than in the car. And I don't have a transmission jack, so if I leave the transmission in place, I have to support it while it's in there and then wrangle it out of the car by myself.
Other than the starter, none of those things caused me any aggravation by leaving them on.
Looks like your removing the engine and trans. Much simpler to pull just the motor.