Condenser Install 3D
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- In Condenser Install 3D video Bryan explains some best practices for installing a heat pump condensing unit in Florida. He walks through the installation process from the warehouse to the final inspections.
The installation process truly starts at the warehouse, where we must make sure we have the correct unit and everything we need, including the concrete pad, heat strips, an appropriate circuit breaker, tubing insulation, UL-rated silver tape, and duct sealant. Some particularly Floridian components include duct board, hurricane straps, plywood, and corrugated tubing.
When you get to the site, confirm that you have the correct unit type by looking at the existing unit’s tonnage, the new unit’s tonnage, and Manual J and S calculations. Then, you check the disconnect to see if it needs replacement before removing the disconnect and making sure you don’t have 240v between legs or between one leg and ground. Check the data plate to make sure you have the appropriate circuit breaker and wire sizing.
Once you’ve verified everything, you can prepare for recovery. We recommend removing Schrader cores from both lines and using an inexpensive analog gauge manifold for recovery. Make sure you know the contents of your tank; if it’s empty, pull a vacuum on the tank to get the air out. Be sure to pay special attention to the water capacity (WC) and tare weight (TW) values on the tank, as you only want to fill the tank 80% for the refrigerant you’re recovering.
When recovering the refrigerant from the old unit, some best practices include using a liquid line filter-drier and inverting your tank while recovering. Keep going until your recovery machine reaches or goes just below zero. After recovering the refrigerant, you disconnect the electrical components.
When replacing an old heat pump with a new one, you may either reuse or replace the copper line set. If you reuse the copper, you would need to do pipe-wiping to remove residual oil and clean out the lines with a foam pig, nitrogen, and a hose. If you need to replace the copper, you need to expose the chase and make sure you have enough room to run new copper. In either case, you will need to cut the copper and must take measures to reduce contamination.
We must also consider the drain. In Florida, indoor traps are uncommon, but they are industry standard. If you’re reusing the drain, you’ll need to clean it well; we recommend using water and a shop vac to clean the drain out well. Refill the trap when you’ve finished.
If you place a new concrete pad or route a new drain, try to keep those two feet from the house, each other, the dryer vent, and your disconnect.
When it comes to brazing new copper, the torch is critical to the success of the operation. Make sure everything is snug and that you turn out your regulators before opening the oxygen and acetylene tanks; try to keep the oxygen and acetylene both around 10 and 10. You’ll typically start off by opening the acetylene tank first, lighting the torch, and bringing oxygen in, but you could start to open both tanks around the same time once you get used to your equipment. You’ll want a neutral or slightly carburizing flame, not an oxidizing flame.
When brazing, heat the copper to a dark cherry red color to draw the alloy into the joint. Allow the copper to cool, and route the copper lines as needed. Once you have enough of the copper line inside the home, you can start bending it with proper tools, sealing the chase, and using fittings or bent connections.
When installing a new drain assembly, we put the sealant on the male end and hold the ends together. You only need primer if the system is pressurized.
After you seal copper at the condenser, you can pull your Schrader cores out. When brazing the rest of the joints, be sure to cover the sensitive parts with a wet towel or Refrigeration Technologies Wetrag to prevent damage, especially indoors. Let each brazed joint sit for at least 20-30 seconds before cooling them off with a wet towel. Clean them and inspect them with a mirror.
When your joints look good, you can do your pressure test. Use a spray-on bubble solution to check for leaks. Make sure there isn’t too much pressure decay over time. During the pressure test, you can work on your electrical connections and anchor your new condenser.
Once you prove that you don’t have significant leaks, you can release the charge, check the thermostat wire, and assess your line lengths to see if you need to add any more charge. As always, you will want to inspect the entire system once it has sufficient charge and clean up your work.
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Please more videos like this. They are so helpful!!!
At work we have the training videos where UVs are used and feeling like your actually doing in carton form so fricken 🆒
@@gillermosifuentes5353 where is this at?
lol I
I am a new installer here in Central Florida. I did counter sales at 2 major distributors for almost 16 years, and I am going to be honest. I'm learning more about watching these videos than what I am learning in the field. You break it down and explain it a lot better than the "seasoned tech/installer" that I work with. Thank you for these videos!! I wish you did travel classes. I'd absolutely attend those.
This video is awesome. Props to the animator and team that put this together.
This must have been so much work to produce. Very good quality video, impressive. HVAC School is definitely the best, most thorough source of info out there.
Agreed... they really put in work and I appreciate the help.
This is fantastic! Thanks for the hard work you all put into this.
Very thorough. I'm currently taking hvac classes and these help with visually seeing the process versus reading about it. Thanks a bunch.
Good stuff as usual. I learned a lot from the podcast and videos. The animation is very insightful hopefully you can give us a virtual tour of the refrigerant flow through the system with 3d cutaways. Thanks again. Oh and the latest podcast with the data analytics was Awesome!
35 year HVAC vet, excellent video!
Thank you for sharing these videos!
Your content really really informative
Been drafting for a few years, recently submitted my PE application,
stumbled on your videos last week & have grow multiples of 12kBtu/hr from them!
From the A2L video to the Refrigeration Basics with Elliot and Bert series, you guys have really shared some amazing knowledge, thank you!
The 3D makes it so much easier to understand 😊👍🏽
I just started helping with minor installs, doing the electrical so far. I’ve been in almost 3 years and it’s all been service. So glad you made this video so I can see and learn how an install is done and be able to help more during installs.
This video brought up a great point and MAKE SURE YOU DO IT, ALWAYS test each high voltage leg to ground not just to each leg to look for 240, ALWAYS test between each leg and ground
Best hvac video I’ve ever seen. WELL DONE
Awesome video. I mean. The animation, narration, etc. Just perfect
If every installer at every company did everything in this video there would be 50% fewer service technicians in the residential market.
Agreed. But that's not how the market is set up. Installers are always treated as the less capable technician and typically paid as such. In addition to this, most companies deal in volume of sales not quality of sale.
Until the market starts taking training install technicians seriously instead of simply throwing them into install sink or swim style. You'll always end up with what we have now.
New technicians starting off as Installers eventually making it to becoming a service technician, especially because it pays better.
I concure with you on this brother but the way ive been seen things its not gonna happened!!!. I like that we think the same but not everyone will see eye to eye!!!.
To be fair this guy is a service technician and the work he is showing now is typically work of a changeout crew who usually has a bunch of skills of a service tech
Which would of course be bad for business lol
Still in trade school so this helps a ton, thanks so much for this detailed video
Trade school is great but honestly you’ll learn the most from the field. Gotta get out there
@@couldntcareless2602 100% True I love they way " Mikey Pipes - Pipe Doctor Plumbing & Heating & Air " (ruclips.net/channel/UCG_Pwm8tfMnJg1Rp2Fsd-qA) trains the people in the field! Good Job Mikey!
Try to pick good habits from everyone, don't just view one person as a know all/best.
Several years ago someone did a video for RUclips where they glued PVC together using primer again without using primer and did some testing. It was found that the joints without the primer were stronger than the joints with the primer. I've never used primer and I've glued all my 1/2-in PVC water lines for irrigation and have never had a problem.
I'm not even a technician. Just a guy that works in an HVAC office, but it's nice to know what the installers in the field do!
This isn’t what they do, lol.
@@jordanhenshaw One reply a year later lol... Elaborate?
@@henrylo3893 They skip half these steps in actuality.
@ 17:45 “…when glueing copper…” while glueing the plastic drain. Another great video!
Excellent production value on this video. Well done!
Such a great explanation, you even suggested what to do at the supply house…A1 material
It's very important to have all this information and your help about it. Thanks 🙏
I drop the condenser from my tailgate to a dolley.
I don't put no seal tape, I just twist it.
I bend the copper with my hand.
I don't even put a wet rag. I just spray it with my water bottle.
I don't braze with the nitro hose connected or near the flame.
I get to house and the cement slab is nut to butt against the house.
Excellent video! You guys have some really slick video production these days!
Thanks for taking the time to make these great videos and for sharing them!!
These videos are awesome. Keep um coming 👍
Knew these guys were good when they mentioned using the box as a garbage can.
Wow! A lot of work went into this video. Great job! Thanks
This is exactly what I wanted, I appreciate it man
This is absolutely wonderful. Thank you!
this is such a useful video thank you so much
I'm hoping that the flashback arrestors are neatly installed as well.
Thank you Bryan for this video !
I thank you again. I appreciate and very grateful for your help.
I just review video and all I can say is AWSOME this will become a great training video for new techs. Great job and thanks
Great instructional video! Very neat work.
Why doesn’t the manufacturer put these videos out 😂. You guys are awesome!
Awesome video! VR and 3D videos are the way training will be done. This channel is great
Great video like always keep them coming 👍🏻
Here in Tennessee there are several cities where we have to use k-flex rubatex by code. The UV-proof stuff. We also have to wrap the liquid line every so often.
It’s always good practice to wrap LL on new install
THANKS SOMUCH , VERY HELPFULL , MORE VIDEO PLEASE!
Thanks Brian! It sure help to do better work!
Thk u for the instalation
Great video. Thank you for all your content.
What program was used to make this video, I am going to dedicate my life to learning it
I wished all company's practice this way. The first company I worked for, 30 years ago. Didn't use or have a vacuum pump, and Purged with refrigerant
Wow this video was amazing keep them coming please thanks
Great visual educational video
Thanks for the work
Awesome video!
Excellent Videos
LOL Brian, @3:20 when testing to ensure that the power is dead (off), the cartoon shows testing the A/C condenser wires to ground (not the line side)...
This is so nice.... Pls which software did you use in creating it?
Great video!!
i live in miami and i always see the dry filter in the condenser unit outside in the liquid line
I like to see a video about decay test
Forgot to deburr the copper. But the rest is so awesome!
Awesome video sir. Thanks for all the work you put in to this.
👏👏👏👏 Bravo !!
Very good effort.
Thx !!
Continu
really good job guys. thanks
awesome dudes keep it up
Wow, this is amazing, nice job!
Thanks!
Great job! Keepem coming!
Definitely.. very helpful ..
17:47 glue copper. Glueing pvc.
so you haul and unload the unit and *THEN confirm its a match? : ) ..i been there done that
watching and sending support nice sharing
Great video! Thanks...
Thank luv ur videos
We use a 5psi difference when brazing
Interesting. I live in FL and I have never seen a liquid filter on the Air Handler, always on the outside.
Same! But from WIsconsin
Great video
Is this the interplay 3D software that NATE is partnering with?
Great video😎
Awesome video thank you so much can you make more videos like this?
Yes - we are working on more
Your animation is amazing. Please respond with the software that was used to create it.
Bryan, will you guys be holding any training seminars in Fl. in 2022 ?
Some units void warranty under dirt
THANK YOUFOR THIS!!!!
nice graphics
AMAZING
why did you charge in suction line in liquid reffregirant? should be in discharge line rigth sir? or im wrong what i learn?
I am an HVAC instructor for a technical college, is this a program that anyone can purchase for instruction? Your video is excellent and I use them but I would like to create my own instructional for my students that correlate to the current curriculum I am teaching.
At 30:18, what is the proper procedure for making sure air doesn't get into the system when reinstalling the shrader cores? Shouldn't you purge the small bit of air out of the removal tool when connecting it to the charged system?
It would be better but air trapped in the shrader valve is minimum, between the ball valve and the end ...
I didn't know they made pvc so flexible maybe it's the new stuff lol 😂
3:50 shows recovery
شكرا
At 30:55 why is the green wire connected to Y2 instead of G? And what does ACC+ mean and why is the black wire connected to it?
Really good video, but Florida specific
This is a space lvl.
why are you using duct board over sheet metal?
i typed in measure quick app and its now showing can anyone helkp me please
17:43 Gluing copper??? PVC perhaps?
Everyone is good with that drain sticking out of the ground waiting to be busted off
How is it supplied? Video translated into Arabic
11 degrees superheat with 10 degrees subcool?? Low airflow? Weak txv bulb?
If you have 11 superheat that coil is flooded!!! That’s a wide open txv
Can you do a video on high efficiency systems, going over troubleshooting and basics
Good
me at 1:23 in the morning: hmm yes
didn’t learn a thing, I’ve been installing that way for years. I’ve found unless you’re evacuating a 5 ton or long lineset, removing schraders don’t do shit
Sorry for wasting your time. You shoukd start a channel. I bet it would be totes rad!