For anyone taking these Cura settings as gold, remember it's a good idea to assess your current 3d model and modify Cura print settings according to your print. Things like overhangs, supports, filament type/brand, and level of detail will make a large difference in quality and success of your print per model.
+Stringsoftears you are exactly right, it had taken me several prints to adjust the temperatures, as well as infill and speeds to get my prints the way I liked them. Use a test cube print to adjust your cura settings accordingly and also check Out ultimakers website to read about all of the functions of CURA.
Interesting bits... You should take a couple of those bearings and print top housings for the z-axis. The bearings allow the z axi to spin without top wobble. It's not a crucial vitamin compared to the belt tensioning stuff, but it'll help with tall prints.
Hi, I had a power supply issue with my Anet A8, the sticker for terminal identification was shifted to the right too much resulting in termination mistakes. Fortunately, I noticed before I shorted anything out...but my machine would not turn on until I noticed the issue. Once I shifted all my cable to the left on the terminal strip, everything worked fine. Happy printing:)
Although on AC power it would not make a difference on functionality but you have the Live (Brown) and Neutral (Blue) wires swapped on your power supply. Having said that it is good practise for safety reasons to use the Brown wire for Live (L) and Blue for Neutral (N).
awesome video.. mine is paid for but I'm in the holding pattern for hopefully just another week before they send it.. Have you seen guys putting glass on their beds instead of the tape?? they say its better.. what do you think?
+Hairless Hippy well personally I originally really liked the look of having a glass bed, and I view them as cleaner and easier ways to work with prints, but if you do use a glass bed, the bottom will look a lot different than the top of your print. (The bottom will melt really nice, and feel smooth. I do like the look of the smoothness but not when printing "fidget spinners" where you need both sides the same.
Shouldn't the z screws be up inside the guide holes? I adjusted the slack from the Z springs on both sides to achieve this. It deffo helps eliminate z banding.
Hello, thanks for good video and description, just a lot of work, I just got my printer last month, looks like yours (the newer one), it is build up now, but I did not get it running. Problem: 1) If I go to presets: PLA heating , I get a blank screen and printer shuts of 2) I can heat the extruder with direct definition of heat temp --> works, but if I try to activate the heat bed --> it shuts of 3) so, just heating up the extruder and try to print the sample file from SD card it does not start (at least waiting for 20 min) 4) have seen your power suply is different than mine did you change it? sorry , a lot of questions, but could you discribe if you, or another user, has detected same? What is the "normal" waiting time antul priter starts printing. A video to explain woud be perfect Regards
Ok so first off don't reference of my PSU (it's different), my cables have different groundings, and the sleeving colors are different. My PSU- www.ebay.com/itm/Mean-Well-LRS-350-12-348W-12V-29A-Single-Output-Switchable-Power-Supply-/122214365016?hash=item1c748b3758:g:nroAAOSwcLxYH3aE The wait time for it to start printing depends if you preheat the pla or not. Basically when your temperatures reach the temperatures set in the file it will start printing. For instance, I print using a heat bed temp of 55, and an extruder temp of 190. Since yours is not heating up, you have probably wired something wrong, or have a bad component. Trouble shoot go to these places in each order- -1st look over all you wiring and make sure you did not make a mistake- www.china-gadgets.de/app/uploads/2016/11/A8-3D-Printer-Installation-Instructions-2016-6-30.pdf -2nd ask your question in detail here- facebook.com/groups/1068531466501015/ -3rd Contact your seller to get a new printer, or figure out what's broken
Tech Boosted Thanks, with getting a larger power supply (as yours) i could heat the heatbed, Now all works fine. My mentioned "waiting time" was due to that the program was waiting for a signal of reached Temperatur .
Just got my printer set up. I am having a problem. At first, it would start the print off of the bed. I made some adjustments. It started print on bed, but then will go off bed again. Can you point me in the direction to fix this? Is it a leveling or centering problem? Thanks for all the great info. Can't wait to print.
where'd you get the 30 pack of bearings? I have been looking for a good price on those, but every one I find is only an 8 pack or 30+ days shipping Nice vid man, love that wall light too! Also, What version of cura are you using... Just got my anet & it came with v14 and the seller said they recommend using v14 for "some reason", not very helpful
Bearings - www.amazon.com/Hundred-Shielded-Greased-Miniature-Bearings/dp/B00NX3LKY6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490573784&sr=8-2&keywords=bearings+100 or - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045F7FJ0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFLT987H7WA7G they may say 30 days, but if you have prime, or pay a tille extra they come in way faster. (I got mine in 2 days with prime, where it had originally said 30+). As for cura, I use 2.3.1. Just go to their website and download the newest version - Version 2.4 ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software I am not exactly sure what you mean by "Version 14," Like for the printer? or Cura? For my printer it uses some version of softwear that "Omni3d" provides, I have not looked into that. - www.omni3d.com/en/firmware/
The way cura used to do the versions was by year, until 2016 so 14 was in 2014, then 15, then 2 came out in 2016 and just started adding sub versions. Not sure which board you have, but yours looks like the same as mine, so i will just try the new version & do the same print as one of my others & see how it turns out... WOW - Those bearing prices! Much better! Thanks much! BTW, Look at your Mainboard, on the Top Left corner, does it say ANET 3D or is there a version number too? like rev 1
Hey can you tell me how did you start printing when you completed the pinter assembly. Is there anything you did to the firmware or anything which helped you start printing or it started printing out of the box after assembly is done
Just a heads up, the Anet A8 power supplies come as 220v defaulted. I found someone else who mentioned it in a random post somewheres. This causes all sorts of power issues if you're on 110v
Nice video keep the good job i got a question what version of Cura are you using because I'm using 14.07 because i can't set it up whit the new version of Cura if you are using the new one can you help how to set it up please and thank you
ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software Here this video will help, it's in german, but still easy to follow. 2.5- ruclips.net/video/p2fiAsT7w7w/видео.html 2.3.1- ruclips.net/video/gSXFHd-UDmE/видео.html
Umm well under the "extruder" option, you can manually change the temperatures, on the actual printer, or in cura you can adjust the temperatures to where you would like them. If this is what your asking?
I just used the free shipping option from Gearbest and i received mine on the 31st of March and placed the order on the 11th of March. I live in Southeast United Stated. I don't think the shipping is always a problem.
my print wont start in center after upgrade to skynet. i manage to "auto home" it in center but when start printing. it still off center. i think i should play with G28 code?
My printer is built and levelled ,Cura 2.5 is installed. How do I get the Anet A8 to show as one of the printers? Do I have to Plug the USB into my PC? It does not appear in the lists and the "other" choice only gives one option.
Umm when you are setting up a new printer just add pursia i3 or other, then put in the dimensions for the bed... You don't need to connect your printer to the computer.
Hi! I bought an Anet A8 printer It was printing normally, but the thermistor dropped and when I saw it was coming out smoke from the printer, so I unplugged the plug. The problem is that when I try to print something the filament is coming out thick (even gushed) even with the temperature of 200 degrees that I used to use before the smoke happened. Help me, pleaseeeeee
Your percentage of extrusion is probably way to high on either ur slicer, or the printer. My bet is that it's the slicer. Go into your slicer, if your using cura, make sure that your settings match mine at the end of the video. Your amount of extrusion should be at 100% to 90%
So for temperatures use what it says on the packaging of your filament it usually is the best. 200-250 °C, depending on your plastic. As for settings all cura settings that I have at the end of this video work the best. Just watch to the end and you will see them. Read this for some tips- www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-abs
Do you use CURA? Watch This. ruclips.net/video/gSXFHd-UDmE/видео.html If that did not help use this. www.anet3d.com/uploads/soft/160525/Print-Quality-Troubleshooting-Guide-Anet.pdf You can copy this code here when setting up a "Custom Printer" In CURA. Startcode: G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... Endcode: M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning
Hi i got a question I'm assembling my Anet A8 and I'm stuck i don't know where the red and black wire from the bed connector goes please can you tell me where go got the instructions to assembling i see couple of installations but they don't have the plug the we got please help
Ok so the black and red cables go on to the screw mounts on the mother board where it says "BED." I don't think it matters which goes in which, but when facing the mother board, the black goes on the right, and red on the left. Just use a screw driver, and unscrew it a bit, push each cable under then tighten down. If it is a light green plug connector, I am pretty sure you plug it in where it says "BED" in white text on the Mother board. I don't have this kind of connection though. However it should be the same as the open cable connection. If this is unclear, just re comment and I will try to help you.
thank you so i don't need a red and black wire from the power supply to the mother board or I'm missing a wire I'm confuse so how i i give power to the mother board sorry to ask my printer is missing the instructions
First off instructions are on the micro sd card. Plug into computer with provided converter. Secondly, You will have a black and red cable that go from the power supply to the mother board. Next you will have a red, black, green, and blue cable go from the hot bed to the motherboard. You will put the red and black cable where it says "BED," and the green and blue one will go to "BT" (BED TEMPERATURE) What ever you do, make sure that you have your Power supply cables going into the motherboard in the right orientation, "Black negative, Red positive..." www.china-gadgets.de/app/uploads/2016/11/A8-3D-Printer-Installation-Instructions-2016-6-30.pdf
Hi I would recheck your AC power cable wiring to your new power supply , In most of the world, Brown = Live/Hot & Blue = Neutral, your video shows you have brown and blue wires in the wrong terminals just swap them making sure you disconnect power cord from the outlet first.
Yes, I know it looks wrong, but the company who sent me the PC cable, wired wrong. I assure you as I checked mine first with a multi-meter. I also encourage anyone with an anet A8 check their cables and PSU as well.
nightrider mick you should be able to use 7, 8, or 10. I use 10. But also read the comments I posted the config file. But here it is anyway... drive.google.com/open?id=0B9MwKeBPVAuiLU5BcHgyeTk1ejQ I have an i5 in my pc runs fine.
nightrider mick windows vista or later, OpenGL 2 compatible graphics card, and an intel core 2 or AMD Atholon 64 or newer. I have an intel core i5 4690k and runs perfectly but basically anything can run cura. It’s just a slicer, not a 3D building software
you mounted z rods badly :) Shaft from steper motor goes inside rod tensioner just 5mm. Same goes for the z rod (just 5mm in tensioner). When you do it like that....z rod goes all the way up through the hole in the frame.
I don't like being a party pooper but i suggest you cut out the part of the vid where you say your selling the spinners. you can actually get in a lot of trouble for selling open files. I suggest making your own design spinners if you are selling them.I mention this from experience.
Well if you use the "commercial use, and creative commons" option on thingiverse you can find spinners to sell, or you can use "Inventor" like I do and design them.
ok, the one you were spinning looked like one i saw on thingiverse that didn't have CU or CC. and for your printer my dad and i have been designing better upgrades you may want to consider. including a better tensioner. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2134573 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115095
Here is what I used to make my spinners. You can also follow the steps and design your own. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2098458 I have created some really cool designs in Auto Desk Auto CAD...
I am having the bad bed leveling every day after 1 or 2 print , I have to do it again and again after few print everyday :( can anyone tell me why ? I am sick of it now .......
Are you sure its your bed?, try tightening your belts. If that does not work go here and they will help you... facebook.com/groups/1068531466501015/?hc_ref=SEARCH
Your power supply cables are not correctly connected, brown is live L and blue is nuetral N. That is european colors on the cable you have. www.electronicshub.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/EU-Color-Code-for-Electrical-Wiring.jpg
Ohh, Mein ist verschieden. Folgen Sie dem normalen Führer. www.china-gadgets.de/app/uploads/2016/11/A8-3D-Printer-Installation-Instructions-2016-6-30.pdf
Funny how many complains about the n and l wiring of the powersupply. Hell in many places u can put the plug in the outlets every wich way so it does not really matter. But No cover for the mains now that is really bad and should be fixed before some idiot bumps in to it and get electricuted.
the spool holder is adding weight to an already fragile frame and doesn't help in any way..... and tensioning your belt to the point that you need frame braces is going backwards... you are just creating problems! my printer works perfectly without all that crap... it's all about your settings.... not the hardware!
For anyone taking these Cura settings as gold, remember it's a good idea to assess your current 3d model and modify Cura print settings according to your print. Things like overhangs, supports, filament type/brand, and level of detail will make a large difference in quality and success of your print per model.
+Stringsoftears you are exactly right, it had taken me several prints to adjust the temperatures, as well as infill and speeds to get my prints the way I liked them. Use a test cube print to adjust your cura settings accordingly and also check Out ultimakers website to read about all of the functions of CURA.
Got mine together and was having printing trouble. Will use your settings and see how it goes.
Interesting bits...
You should take a couple of those bearings and print top housings for the z-axis. The bearings allow the z axi to spin without top wobble. It's not a crucial vitamin compared to the belt tensioning stuff, but it'll help with tall prints.
Hi, I had a power supply issue with my Anet A8, the sticker for terminal identification was shifted to the right too much resulting in termination mistakes. Fortunately, I noticed before I shorted anything out...but my machine would not turn on until I noticed the issue. Once I shifted all my cable to the left on the terminal strip, everything worked fine. Happy printing:)
Good to hear you fixed the problem.
Hey thanks for the upgrade links, looking forward to upgrading this thing to beast mode
+Thomas Leonard no problem.
Although on AC power it would not make a difference on functionality but you have the Live (Brown) and Neutral (Blue) wires swapped on your power supply. Having said that it is good practise for safety reasons to use the Brown wire for Live (L) and Blue for Neutral (N).
No I understand... The Manufacture did not properly sleeve the cables...
reallly good video keep up the good work man!
Thanks
GOOD VID
awesome video.. mine is paid for but I'm in the holding pattern for hopefully just another week before they send it.. Have you seen guys putting glass on their beds instead of the tape?? they say its better.. what do you think?
+Hairless Hippy well personally I originally really liked the look of having a glass bed, and I view them as cleaner and easier ways to work with prints, but if you do use a glass bed, the bottom will look a lot different than the top of your print. (The bottom will melt really nice, and feel smooth. I do like the look of the smoothness but not when printing "fidget spinners" where you need both sides the same.
Shouldn't the z screws be up inside the guide holes? I adjusted the slack from the Z springs on both sides to achieve this. It deffo helps eliminate z banding.
hey I ordered one and am going to make some fidget spinners as well, what setting do u use so they come out clean? and what design platform do u use?
I use CURA to slice the STL files that you can download from thingiverse. My settings are at 14:03 minutes in the video.
What filaments would you recommend, I'm new to 3D printing possibly going to buy the Anet A8
Silver
Hello, thanks for good video and description, just a lot of work,
I just got my printer last month, looks like yours (the newer one), it is build up now, but I did not get it running.
Problem:
1) If I go to presets: PLA heating , I get a blank screen and printer shuts of
2) I can heat the extruder with direct definition of heat temp --> works, but
if I try to activate the heat bed --> it shuts of
3) so, just heating up the extruder and try to print the sample file from SD card it does not start (at least waiting for 20 min)
4) have seen your power suply is different than mine did you change it?
sorry , a lot of questions, but
could you discribe if you, or another user, has detected same?
What is the "normal" waiting time antul priter starts printing.
A video to explain woud be perfect
Regards
Ok so first off don't reference of my PSU (it's different), my cables have different groundings, and the sleeving colors are different.
My PSU- www.ebay.com/itm/Mean-Well-LRS-350-12-348W-12V-29A-Single-Output-Switchable-Power-Supply-/122214365016?hash=item1c748b3758:g:nroAAOSwcLxYH3aE
The wait time for it to start printing depends if you preheat the pla or not. Basically when your temperatures reach the temperatures set in the file it will start printing. For instance, I print using a heat bed temp of 55, and an extruder temp of 190. Since yours is not heating up, you have probably wired something wrong, or have a bad component.
Trouble shoot go to these places in each order-
-1st look over all you wiring and make sure you did not make a mistake- www.china-gadgets.de/app/uploads/2016/11/A8-3D-Printer-Installation-Instructions-2016-6-30.pdf
-2nd ask your question in detail here- facebook.com/groups/1068531466501015/
-3rd Contact your seller to get a new printer, or figure out what's broken
Tech Boosted
Thanks, with getting a larger power supply (as yours) i could heat the heatbed, Now all works fine. My mentioned "waiting time" was due to that the program was waiting for a signal of reached Temperatur .
Nice
Good video. Like!! Can you make a video calibrating the extruder and talking about the firmware update. I'm having trouble with it. Tks
Just got my printer set up. I am having a problem. At first, it would start the print off of the bed. I made some adjustments. It started print on bed, but then will go off bed again. Can you point me in the direction to fix this? Is it a leveling or centering problem? Thanks for all the great info. Can't wait to print.
I had the same problem I tightened my x belt and it started to print good
I am looking for a front and rear Y axis brace that replaces the original acrylic.
I just bought an Anet A8, and it is on its way from China. Do you have any recommendations on brands of filiment to buy?
Silver or Hatchabox
+jacob bohler silver or hatchabox
where'd you get the 30 pack of bearings?
I have been looking for a good price on those, but every one I find is only an 8 pack or 30+ days shipping
Nice vid man, love that wall light too!
Also, What version of cura are you using...
Just got my anet & it came with v14 and the seller said they recommend using v14 for "some reason", not very helpful
Bearings
- www.amazon.com/Hundred-Shielded-Greased-Miniature-Bearings/dp/B00NX3LKY6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490573784&sr=8-2&keywords=bearings+100
or
- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045F7FJ0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFLT987H7WA7G
they may say 30 days, but if you have prime, or pay a tille extra they come in way faster. (I got mine in 2 days with prime, where it had originally said 30+).
As for cura, I use 2.3.1. Just go to their website and download the newest version
- Version 2.4 ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software
I am not exactly sure what you mean by "Version 14," Like for the printer? or Cura?
For my printer it uses some version of softwear that "Omni3d" provides, I have not looked into that.
- www.omni3d.com/en/firmware/
The way cura used to do the versions was by year, until 2016
so 14 was in 2014, then 15, then 2 came out in 2016 and just started adding sub versions.
Not sure which board you have, but yours looks like the same as mine, so i will just try the new version & do the same print as one of my others & see how it turns out...
WOW - Those bearing prices! Much better!
Thanks much!
BTW, Look at your Mainboard, on the Top Left corner, does it say ANET 3D or is there a version number too?
like rev 1
Do you use ceramic bearings at all for the center?
if so, have you found any good prices on those?
Hey can you tell me how did you start printing when you completed the pinter assembly. Is there anything you did to the firmware or anything which helped you start printing or it started printing out of the box after assembly is done
Just a heads up, the Anet A8 power supplies come as 220v defaulted. I found someone else who mentioned it in a random post somewheres. This causes all sorts of power issues if you're on 110v
Peter Couture so what should I do exactly?
There should be a switch on the old power supply for you to change the 220 to 110. Use something none metalic to do it.
Peter Couture ohh ye I already did that. Mine is switched to the 115 not the 220
The old one flat out did not work.
115? Hmmm maybe you got one for the wrong country power type.
Donovan, duck!
Where?
Nice video keep the good job i got a question what version of Cura are you using because I'm using 14.07 because i can't set it up whit the new version of Cura if you are using the new one can you help how to set it up please and thank you
ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software
Here this video will help, it's in german, but still easy to follow.
2.5- ruclips.net/video/p2fiAsT7w7w/видео.html
2.3.1- ruclips.net/video/gSXFHd-UDmE/видео.html
Thank you i will try it later today
i follow the video but my PC recognize the printer like CH340 but the Cura 2.5 won't recognize the printer any ideas
You have to set up a custom printer... My printer is not connected to my pc, I transfer files via micro sd card.
ok so i can't use the printer with my pc only to fix the files with Cura and then use it in the printer
I am using the same board and my screen showing default for heat bed and extruder what should I do
Umm well under the "extruder" option, you can manually change the temperatures, on the actual printer, or in cura you can adjust the temperatures to where you would like them. If this is what your asking?
i have problem with stringing. could you make a video and how to solve that problem? thank you so much
Thanks for the video, how about providing your actual cura config file?
Thanksk for sharing and keep posting good videos.
mine shipped in 5 days!! im in northern canada!! did you ship dhl???
Ye, but I got mine in 31 days... :(
I just used the free shipping option from Gearbest and i received mine on the 31st of March and placed the order on the 11th of March. I live in Southeast United Stated. I don't think the shipping is always a problem.
Dang, they really messed up on my shipping.
my print wont start in center after upgrade to skynet.
i manage to "auto home" it in center
but when start printing. it still off center.
i think i should play with G28 code?
which screws did you use to mount the x chain
Honestly I think they were larger screws. Idk exactly, I’m not home rn.
My printer is built and levelled ,Cura 2.5 is installed. How do I get the Anet A8 to show as one of the printers? Do I have to Plug the USB into my PC? It does not appear in the lists and the "other" choice only gives one option.
Umm when you are setting up a new printer just add pursia i3 or other, then put in the dimensions for the bed... You don't need to connect your printer to the computer.
Awesome ,I added a Prusa i3 and named it Anet a8 at the bottom of the page.
what feed rate did you use for pla
Hi! I bought an Anet A8 printer It was printing normally, but the thermistor dropped and when I saw it was coming out smoke from the printer, so I unplugged the plug. The problem is that when I try to print something the filament is coming out thick (even gushed) even with the temperature of 200 degrees that I used to use before the smoke happened. Help me, pleaseeeeee
Your percentage of extrusion is probably way to high on either ur slicer, or the printer. My bet is that it's the slicer. Go into your slicer, if your using cura, make sure that your settings match mine at the end of the video. Your amount of extrusion should be at 100% to 90%
hi, what settings should i used for abs fillament, its an anet a8
So for temperatures use what it says on the packaging of your filament it usually is the best. 200-250 °C, depending on your plastic.
As for settings all cura settings that I have at the end of this video work the best. Just watch to the end and you will see them.
Read this for some tips- www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-abs
whats the retraction distance?
what is the pla that you used for the print?
Helper it’s called “silver.” It’s on amazon.
What is the footprint of the printer
How can I configure my printer so that a 1 by 1 cube doesn´t come out like a 1,1 by 1,2?
Do you use CURA?
Watch This.
ruclips.net/video/gSXFHd-UDmE/видео.html
If that did not help use this.
www.anet3d.com/uploads/soft/160525/Print-Quality-Troubleshooting-Guide-Anet.pdf
You can copy this code here when setting up a "Custom Printer" In CURA.
Startcode:
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
Endcode:
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
Hi i got a question I'm assembling my Anet A8 and I'm stuck i don't know where the red and black wire from the bed connector goes please can you tell me where go got the instructions to assembling i see couple of installations but they don't have the plug the we got please help
Ok so the black and red cables go on to the screw mounts on the mother board where it says "BED." I don't think it matters which goes in which, but when facing the mother board, the black goes on the right, and red on the left. Just use a screw driver, and unscrew it a bit, push each cable under then tighten down.
If it is a light green plug connector, I am pretty sure you plug it in where it says "BED" in white text on the Mother board. I don't have this kind of connection though. However it should be the same as the open cable connection.
If this is unclear, just re comment and I will try to help you.
thank you so i don't need a red and black wire from the power supply to the mother board or I'm missing a wire I'm confuse so how i i give power to the mother board sorry to ask my printer is missing the instructions
First off instructions are on the micro sd card. Plug into computer with provided converter.
Secondly, You will have a black and red cable that go from the power supply to the mother board.
Next you will have a red, black, green, and blue cable go from the hot bed to the motherboard. You will put the red and black cable where it says "BED," and the green and blue one will go to "BT" (BED TEMPERATURE)
What ever you do, make sure that you have your Power supply cables going into the motherboard in the right orientation, "Black negative, Red positive..."
www.china-gadgets.de/app/uploads/2016/11/A8-3D-Printer-Installation-Instructions-2016-6-30.pdf
thank you again
Hi I would recheck your AC power cable wiring to your new power supply , In most of the world, Brown = Live/Hot & Blue = Neutral, your video shows you have brown and blue wires in the wrong terminals just swap them making sure you disconnect power cord from the outlet first.
Yes, I know it looks wrong, but the company who sent me the PC cable, wired wrong. I assure you as I checked mine first with a multi-meter. I also encourage anyone with an anet A8 check their cables and PSU as well.
Plus mine runs just fine ;)
Hi, You print this mods in PLA or ABS?
Manuel Chaves Pla
tks
how do you install the belt spinners? I need a video for that
+Trent Jones Hey I will see what I can do, would you mind clarifying what you mean by belt spinners? Thanks.
What version of Cura do you use?
2.3.1, but version 2.4 is out with a 2.5 beta available.
- ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software
does anyone know where i can order mosfets? only places i find are alieexpress and aliebaba. both chinese knockoff sites
m.ebay.com/itm/122028782943?_mwBanner=1
Tech Boosted thanks alot man.
No Problem.
ebay
please what ever you do print a cover for your power supply mains input. The way you have it is potentially dangerous.
Ye, I just haven't got around to designing one.
hi iam getting a a8 how about providing your actual cura config file and whot windows system will it run on and the pc min specks thanks
nightrider mick you should be able to use 7, 8, or 10. I use 10. But also read the comments I posted the config file. But here it is anyway... drive.google.com/open?id=0B9MwKeBPVAuiLU5BcHgyeTk1ejQ I have an i5 in my pc runs fine.
whot will be the min spek to run on pc m8
nightrider mick windows vista or later, OpenGL 2 compatible graphics card, and an intel core 2 or AMD Atholon 64 or newer.
I have an intel core i5 4690k and runs perfectly but basically anything can run cura. It’s just a slicer, not a 3D building software
you mounted z rods badly :) Shaft from steper motor goes inside rod tensioner just 5mm. Same goes for the z rod (just 5mm in tensioner). When you do it like that....z rod goes all the way up through the hole in the frame.
and the diameter of the nozzle?
shagggyyyyyyyy
I don't like being a party pooper but i suggest you cut out the part of the vid where you say your selling the spinners. you can actually get in a lot of trouble for selling open files. I suggest making your own design spinners if you are selling them.I mention this from experience.
Well if you use the "commercial use, and creative commons" option on thingiverse you can find spinners to sell, or you can use "Inventor" like I do and design them.
ok, the one you were spinning looked like one i saw on thingiverse that didn't have CU or CC. and for your printer my dad and i have been designing better upgrades you may want to consider. including a better tensioner.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2134573
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115095
Here is what I used to make my spinners.
You can also follow the steps and design your own.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2098458
I have created some really cool designs in Auto Desk Auto CAD...
i've designed a few myself in solidworks. just haven't gotten around to posting them on thingiverse.
Sweet.
You should buy a build plate sticker or build plate surface so you don't have to spend so much on tape.
Just use thick masking tape. I still have not gone through a roll and i only spent 8 bucks
i cant find the y belt guard thing on thingiverse
All of the links are in the description.
Donovan Staab not the one I'm looking for. if anyone knows it that would be appreciated.
Which one...
Tech Boosted the guard that protects the acrylic from the screws
drive.google.com/open?id=0B-3ffI37kjfvOUJiTjVyOGtKMTQ
Machine Settings- drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3ffI37kjfvYlI1Wk1hQ2VuZ1U/view?usp=sharing
what power supply did you buy?
Meanwell Power Supply 12v 29A
www.ebay.com/itm/LRS-350-12-Mean-Well-Power-Supply-12V-29A-/122452640151?hash=item1c82bf0197:g:3wAAAOSwWWxY~lS-
I am having the bad bed leveling every day after 1 or 2 print , I have to do it again and again after few print everyday :(
can anyone tell me why ?
I am sick of it now .......
Are you sure its your bed?, try tightening your belts. If that does not work go here and they will help you... facebook.com/groups/1068531466501015/?hc_ref=SEARCH
Your power supply cables are not correctly connected, brown is live L and blue is nuetral N. That is european colors on the cable you have. www.electronicshub.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/EU-Color-Code-for-Electrical-Wiring.jpg
Filament in gantry, bad. Causes gantry inertia to swing gantry. Table rollers or mount causes less gantry shake on your Z-axis.
is the L at your place blue? here in Germany the L is Brown (L1)
What do you mean by "L" ? (Ich kann Deutsch Sprechen).
Tech Boosted beim Netzteil
Ohh, Mein ist verschieden. Folgen Sie dem normalen Führer.
www.china-gadgets.de/app/uploads/2016/11/A8-3D-Printer-Installation-Instructions-2016-6-30.pdf
Are you the iron fist dude???
Yes, JK no
since you are online can you suggest me for pla what settings you use for restraction distance and speed and also what print speed you use thanks...
Watch to the end of this video, I give the settings at the very end...
Funny how many complains about the n and l wiring of the powersupply. Hell in many places u can put the plug in the outlets every wich way so it does not really matter.
But No cover for the mains now that is really bad and should be fixed before some idiot bumps in to it and get electricuted.
Anders Strömqvist definitely, I’m working on a design for a psu cover with an adapter to pc cable.
the spool holder is adding weight to an already fragile frame and doesn't help in any way..... and tensioning your belt to the point that you need frame braces is going backwards... you are just creating problems! my printer works perfectly without all that crap... it's all about your settings.... not the hardware!
You make a point, but you also have to consider convenience. I find it very nice to easily swap between two colors with the spool holder from above.
y is this vid so shacky.
crap.