By opening the tip, you can bring the low point of the con cavity closer to the avg reed position. The reed open distance does not change, but the distance in the closed position does. So it helps some but not enough unless you open the tip a lot. Then you may need to cut down the table if the tip is too open. A lot of work vs adding a little epoxy.
If a player wants a brighter mouthpiece, get a Berg Larsen. There's a reason people choose to play a rubber link. I have seen these epoxy baffles for the last 50 years now. With full respect to Keith, I would never do this to my slant link 8, I love the deep warm full sound the way it is, like Getz.
Thanks So much friend. is valuable information for me because I need to make a refacing in this mouthpiece I have a Otto link Tone Edge 8* and I want a Medium facing lenght Thanks friend! Bye bye
It seems you could remove the concavity by removing material closer to the tip as well. Why do you prefer to fill in with epoxy instead? Thanks for any responses.
Dear Mojo, thank you for this beautiful instructive video! I have a question, would you apply the same epoxy putty on metal mouthpieces as well? or do you recommend a better/different material in that case?
I mostly use a quick set plumbers epoxy putty in metal. I think it holds in better over time as the metal expands and contracts with temperature. But you need to do all the shaping in about 4 minutes. After it hardens you can file and sand it, or add more epoxy.
Hey MojoBari, I have a couple of mouthpieces I would like to get worked on. I would like one converted to a Gregory Model A. Is that something you can do? If so, how can I get a hold of you? Richard
Hi Mojo! I'm Tonino I saw your video and I'm very interesting to repairs my mouthpiece and I would like know which product you use for that job.I'm waiting your reply, thanks so much.
By opening the tip, you can bring the low point of the con cavity closer to the avg reed position. The reed open distance does not change, but the distance in the closed position does. So it helps some but not enough unless you open the tip a lot. Then you may need to cut down the table if the tip is too open. A lot of work vs adding a little epoxy.
Ya me he suscrito porque su aporte y conocimientos son importantes para todos!!saludos desde Cuba!!
If a player wants a brighter mouthpiece, get a Berg Larsen. There's a reason people choose to play a rubber link. I have seen these epoxy baffles for the last 50 years now. With full respect to Keith, I would never do this to my slant link 8, I love the deep warm full sound the way it is, like Getz.
Interesting. Thanks.
I can watch a "Hack" working for about a minute or so .......... I could watch a real craftsman such as this for hours.
Thanks So much friend.
is valuable information for me
because I need to make a refacing in this mouthpiece
I have a Otto link Tone Edge 8*
and I want a Medium facing lenght
Thanks friend!
Bye bye
It seems you could remove the concavity by removing material closer to the tip as well. Why do you prefer to fill in with epoxy instead?
Thanks for any responses.
great vid mojo :) a fan here!
do yo0u ever worry about the cleaning solution in the wipe fouling the epoxy reaction?
very cool
You get jobs. I live in Orlando I would send you a picture of the nozzle to know how much the cost would be thanks
See my website.
@@MojoBari .com
Dear Mojo, thank you for this beautiful instructive video! I have a question, would you apply the same epoxy putty on metal mouthpieces as well? or do you recommend a better/different material in that case?
I mostly use a quick set plumbers epoxy putty in metal. I think it holds in better over time as the metal expands and contracts with temperature. But you need to do all the shaping in about 4 minutes. After it hardens you can file and sand it, or add more epoxy.
Awesome thanks!!!
Great video where you located i would love to get my mouthpieces looked at
See Mojomp.com. I’m in southern NJ. Most of my work is mailed to me.
Hey MojoBari,
I have a couple of mouthpieces I would like to get worked on. I would like one converted to a Gregory Model A. Is that something you can do? If so, how can I get a hold of you?
Richard
Hi there, thank you for the video. May i ask did you use apoxie paste or apoxie sculp. I see those two on ebay, that i wanted to buy. Thanks again.
I used Apoxie Fix-It. Check the Apoxie web site.
Hey mojo...can i hire you to put a baffle in my otto link 5* alto? I know i could never do this...lol
Frank Green Yes. Email me.
Is it a problem if the table is tilted to one side?
Not if the the side rails are tilted the same amount.
Hi Mojo! I'm Tonino I saw your video and I'm very interesting to repairs my mouthpiece and I would like know which product you use for that job.I'm waiting your reply, thanks so much.
Sardisco Antonino I use Apoxie Fix It in this video.
A question friend.
What is the facing lenght of this mouthpice, from tenor sax?
Hi Keith,
I will email you.
Thanks So Much!
See You later.
:)
I found your website. I sent you an email as well.
Is the Apoxie non-toxic?
I can not say 100%. But most epoxies become inert once thoroughly mixed and cured.
@@mojobari79 Thanks Keith. I actually looked it up after I asked the question and I found it actually says non-toxic on the package.
would milliput work too?
I think so.
But science and craftsmanship can help.
The main issue is the distance of the low point of the concavity from the reed. The baffle needs to be higher, not just non-concave.
When I was done with it it was 50 = 25mm to the .0015" feeler gage.
@mpcguy Nope.
You can visit my website listed in the video description. You can do a web search and find me. Email at mojomouthpiecework@yahoo.com
I found your website. I sent you an email as well.