Very clever and thank you for taking the time to record, edit and share your work with those of us who appreciate your efforts to spread the knowledge. Cheers brother
Maxim you're a genius! That's exactly what I was looking for and just needs a geared Nema 17 - after all a cross slide only needs to move slowly. Personally I'd like to keep the scale on the handle, and be able to disengage the gear to use the handle manually without winding the motor, but these would be simple developments of a brilliantly simple design. Excellent engineering.
This modification of the cross-slide is very well done. I was looking for a solution to my cross-slide slop and this is the simplest fro me. Thank you for putting this video up.
I never thought about 3D printing the parts needed to add bearings. I'm glad I got a chance to view this video. Now I can smooth out the cross-slide on my Mini Lathe.
Thanks so much for this. I printed it out but I should of measured first. After a few adjustments and 2 failed prints, this worked really well on my AL-51G. Now i've got to fix the compound slide's mount, it's so bad.
Hello I really like what you did around I have the same turn and I will embark on the modification a small question what model of tool holder is mounted on your lathe? because the original model is not great thank you good continuation gilles
How do you compensate the huge inertia of the wheel and handle? Wouldn't it be better if it would be driven directly with a planetary gear? I mean what for a improvement is that with the handle still on? I mean if I would have a lathe and I would upgrade it to a cnc lathe then personally I wouldn't need the handles anymore. I would load my G code in the cnc lathe and just supervise it. Anyhow great work. Keep it up!
Thank you. I was turning a part last night and used both ELS and the handles, was fun. Jumping through CNC hoops is only sometimes worth it in the home shop.
How does it work? Do you need to stop the ELS how does the cnc system know were to start again when you are finished using handles? I have a CNC 1830 the only modifications that I made are the end stops a beefed up Z carrier and a 800W 30000RPM spindle. I use Grbl and F360. I noticed that I can also can generate tool paths for cnc lathe in Fusion. And Grbl could be set as lathe as well. Do you have a homing and stops and a homing routine for your CNC lathe?
@@icebluscorpion see my other video on Rocketronics ELS, it doesn't require a computer at all, just position the tool and click in the operation needed.
@@MaximKachurovskiy I have also another question, what Lathe do you use and would you recommend it for the price that you bought ?what specs does it have?
@@icebluscorpion I'm using WM210V from AliExpress, it's gotten expensive now due to taxes and delivery charges so I can't wholeheartedly recommend it anymore. I have a long video on my channel about this lathe, please take a look if interested, it has a shop link too. Please keep in mind that I'm an absolute beginner in machining though.
Just found your channel and watched the x-axis power feed. Really impressed - great work. Any chance of future projects for powering the axes on a small milling machine?
What a great video and project! I have the exact same lathe, with the same backlash problems in the cross slide. Would you be willing to share the fusion file you created for the replacement part? I would love to try it.
Hi maxim. Say could you tell me what degree your crosslide and tool post are set at. It looks like 30 degree on the crossslide. So would I put the tool post on 30 degree also. I’m playing around with it and it seems like my cutter is going at a slight angle.
Jack, yes, I'm using 30 degree on the top slide. Reason I did this is to have more control when trying to take off the last hundreds of a mm. My cutter is still parallel to the chuck as much as possible. Not sure if this is the best setup though, just too lazy to rotate it now :)
A steel tube spacer between the two inner races would be nice, to transmit the tightening load via steel to the carriage, it would need to be cut to exactly the correct length to give you the right preload but you have a lathe with which to do that ;)
Dude your the man I ordered mine about a month ago for my MX210-V Just got it yesterday and installed today and it has made a world of difference in the movement. (Now I just need to get it all adjusted right ). I recommend this too anyone with this type of lathe. Say do you by chance have one for the slide above that one ? Thanks. From a happy camper.
@@IsMaCR63 I'm on vacation now so can't look up the exact value. It could be ~1a. I assume it could be lowered untill you start having problems with torque?
Incredible project... Did you end-up keeping the Rocketronics controller ? I will sure use your hardware solution for the x and z drives and encoder... Quite a success.. Thank you for all this sharing...
А шевронные колеса если печатать выгоды никакой? Может бекслеш на автоподаче меньше? И наверное надо было печать корпус со стальной трубкой внутри в которую запресованы подшипники? (Иначе жесткость подачи снизится)
Ты молодец. У нас схожая точка зрения. Правда у меня нет 3д принтера, пошел более простым путем, но твой вариант исчерпывает все нюансы. Возможно прибегну к твоему решению. Спасибо.
Нет опыта в такой работе, сложно зажать, нет 4-х кулачкового патрона, маленький подшипник вылезал бы наружу, хотелось иметь возможность возврата в исходную точку в случае неудачи. Деталька литая из алюминия и там внешний диаметр неровный.
@@MaximKachurovskiy понял, спасибо! вот только сегодня устанавливал 4кулачковый, сверлил отверстия, т.к. на нём 4 было, а нужно три :) Патрон сел как влитой. Спасибо за ответы! Наверное попробую всё-таки расфрезеровать.. Только болтаться может и в месте, где гайка на резьбе стоит. Леха Технарь фрезеровал свою гайку с капролоновой вставкой - для меня это слишком сложно пока, да и фрезера нет :)
@@MaximKachurovskiy At the end of the screw there is a nut that cannot be adjusted, they all tend to have slack, it's difficult to fix/adjust without a suitable nut. My lathe have arround 20 hundredths mm. slack, it's a lot!
I was mainly designing for the motorized version where there are significant lateral forces. For basic version I agree that axial bearings will perform better.
@@antonio.stefanelli the same concept applies, just need to adjust the case for axial bearing sizes and allow for the outer axial bearing ring to spin freely.
Tyler, you can order any of these prints online, use the STL files linked in the video description and services from www.google.com/search?q=order+3d+print
Exactly, just a couple of week ago I got my lathe here and even today (year 2024) the China factories are having same issues ! what is really frustrating to me is, the factories have all the resources and quality raw materials the need to do it right yet they chose to cheap out on stuff like this... yes from day one I had to start modifying mine since I do not like at all bad precision machines .. next for me is the cross slide that even with the adjusting of those 3 screws will not do the job -- wayyy too much slack
Hi Maxim. Can you provide me with the fusion 360 file of the nema 17 motor bracket? my lathe is the same as yours but the support on my lathe does not quite fit well and I have to modify it. Thanks. A greeting.
Hi Maxim, it's not clear to me how you control the movement of the two axis during the automatic threading of the bolt. Did you write a specific code with Arduino to make such operation?
Hey topmounting, yes - imgur.com/a/PKctaDy - in Arduino I'm using this work-in-progress code: gist.github.com/kachurovskiy/82bd219854d432c72eaa0d86237537b1
@@MaximKachurovskiy right now I am printing the version from thingiverse, I have a WM210V too it should fit, I would like to try the motorized version too if this works well.
@@MaximKachurovskiy I just mounted the stand alone version works nice, the small bearing was harder to find, posted a make on thingiverse ;) for the motorized version I have the parts but need to make the electronics and control part. thank you ;)
@@cosminnci I just learned that only the first numbers matter for the bearing models as they define the physical dimensions - 608 and 688. The rest of the model name is likely non-critical for our application here. Nice touch with the washers on www.thingiverse.com/make:887608
Hello @ Maxim Kachurovskiy you make awesome project. Does your published code for Arduino support 2nd axis. I prepared everything and solder it to your PCB, but 2nd axis does'n work, so I guess project is still in progress right ?
Slamar, NanoEls is only for 1 axis. I'm working on a fork of a Russian project Digital Feed which supports 2 axis though it will take some more months to publish that. It will be a much larger PCB on Arduino Mega. Cheers!
@Maxim Kachorovskii Thank you for quick response, I appreciate that. That's my fault, I didn't check it before. I just find that project on GitHub discuss, I will try to follow it. Have a good day 😉 Last question, do You put Arduino mega under your 3D printed enclosure and You're using your Nanoels board to control it?
Hi choco107, thank you! I shared the model on www.thingiverse.com/thing:4712247 but it might not fit your particular lathe / bearings. I'm sure you will have little trouble designing one of these yourselves, Fusion 360 is really easy to use.
Thanks for the video. I printed the no-motor version of this part and bearings are ordered. Using deep-groove bearings instead of thrust bearings is a good idea. They can take 1/3 of their rated radial load in the axial direction. For 608 bearings, their rated radial load (static) is 307 lbf (1370 N) so they function as a thrust bearing up to that point. (That's the low estimate---the dynamic limit may be as high as 260 lbf but that's probably for fairly high-speed turning. Hand operation is closer to static.) The axial load on the bearing during cutting is unknown but it could be as high as 100 lbf, so I would say that this is a marginal design. In theory, the cutting forces are straight down. Also, the elasticity of PLA is considerable compared even to aluminum, which is another weak point of this design. However, it looks like you've had good results so maybe it's good enough. I'm a fairly timid machinist so it will probably be good enough for me. I'd check the pre-load occasionally because PLA can creep a bit and you might find excess lash in the cross slide over several months. I think I'll Also, if you want to use the smaller bearing on both ends, a PLA spacer could solve the problem of the dial touching the other race. Compression is a strong mode for PLA and the printer has high resolution in the Z axis.
I've used a lot of 3D printed parts for my lathe and mill. Interested in what type of filament you used. Some of my PLA parts were just not strong enough playing with infill and number of walls. Normally I have to make partial parts to make sure they will print especially for bearings or fasteners to fit. Nice work!
Yes, PLA is not the best. I've got some PETG but yet to try it. Afraid it will damage my printer bed :) Some people say it's a problem with PETG, others say it's not 🤷
@@MaximKachurovskiy I had good luck with PETG on Isopropyl cleaned PEI until one day it would not release from the PEI and ruined the surface. Since then I've used a light mist of Aquanet on PEI and never had another problem. I also print TPU and PLA on Aquanet now, and rarely ever need to clean with Isopropyl. Aquanet coatings last quite a few prints, so it is much lower maintenance than PEI alone. It collects some dust but the prints come out fine. Occasionally cleaning with water removes the dust and Aquanet and a new mist is applied. I also avoid touching the surface as finger oil causes a lot of the common adhesion problems. Another misting every few prints is sufficient, and it saves a lot of alcohol. I've not even used a whole can of Aquanet in a couple years, not much is required. I also tried the Windex but Aquanet works better than Windex or Glue Stick.
@@MaximKachurovskiy just done this mod, a friend used his 3d printer to make the part but didnt use full strength. I can feel a small amount of flex but the slide is so smooth now. I will be getting another made soon ( in a better colour) and full strength hopefully.
Я случайно по комментарию в другом канале увидел, что вы оказывается по русски говорите))) Интересная реализация электронной гитары у вас. Скорее всего хочу повторить ваш проект, только кнопки поставить побольше. Отлично!
Not sure but you’ve probably been asked a lot. But I can’t find any in the comments. Do you buy chance sell the part you made with your 3d printer with bearings installed. I have the MX210V lathe. But I don’t own a printer. So if you do how could I go about acquiring one from you. Thank you.
Hi Jack, thank you, you can order prints online shipped to your address. All the files needed for this are available on Thingiverse, see the links in the description. Best wishes!
@@MaximKachurovskiy thank you for getting back too me. And sending the drawings but I don’t own nor do I have a printer. Plus I don’t know anyone who does have one. That is why I asked if you sold these. Because I would be interested in buying one if you did.
@@MaximKachurovskiy ok thank you. I finally figured out how too order it and stuff so it is now ordered. When it arrived I will let ya know how it goes and I will also be doing the support your inventor thing. Thank you so much for all your time.
I like how you mounted the motor on the apron. I want to do something similar to my mini lathe. I would like to add power cross feed but I basically want a forward/reverse and possibly a speed control knob. How difficult do you think that would be?
That depends on your lathe model - which one you have? If you're interested in just the cross-feed control, www.aliexpress.com/item/33048497080.html should do that. Add stepper, driver and a power supply, connect wires together and it should work.
@@bowtiedooley I'm using 0.42nm but 0.71nm version that's 60mm long will also fit. Due to gear reduction, it's multiplied by ~3x. Note that plastic parts don't like heat, if you need to run this for more than ~10 minutes at a time, some of the parts would have to be made of metal or heat-resistant filament.
You could make a new wheel for use with the motorized mount So you can keep your dial for threading. Maybe a stackable design with a pins so they all rotate together.
They are really varied in quality, consider getting one from AliExpress with a lot of reviews. But of course, more money buy you more lathe :) Just beware the weight.
Aluminium oxidizes so you will always get black oil , Anyway these small lathes tend to have a lot of backlash , because of the poor threading in the casting of the cross slide and Main feed slide, at a guess I expect they used the wrong Pitch for easy threading. But yours is not to bad :) I love the idea of adding nema motors, I do have a few spares around and a controller so i will have a go.
Дело хозяйское, если моторчик не ставить то я может быть и не стал бы вообще заморачиваться. Я сначала сделал крепление с мотором а потом подумал что и без мотора будет полезно :)
@@MaximKachurovskiy Ну ничего не мешает зажать поперечку, повернуть малую продольную на 90 градусов и использовать её вместо поперечки. Видел это в каком-то видео. А для ЧПУ - таки да, надо бы устранить все люфты. Или даже внедрить ШВП. (Капитан Очевидность). : D
Maxi, please find the links in the description but I also hope that one day you'll take on the challenge to design something like this too 👍 It's really not too hard.
@@MaximKachurovskiy wow thanks! And yes i would like one day to be able to design usefull upgrades for myself, but im still on the learning phase haha (im a biologist, not even close as a machinist), thank you and best wishes
This is genius! I also have a 3D-printer and make every kind of shit on it, but I could not realize I can print critical lathe parts on it! (And I also have a similar lathe with all the same problems :) ). But now I see: indeed - the possible additional deformation that the printed part brings to the whole cross slide assembly does not exceed the precision of the lathe. The play in the original design decreases the precision much more than your part(s)! Like odnoznachno! :)
Pierre, yes, but most of the backlash at this point is coming from the nut attached to the slide so the difference between using the belt and gears should be minimal.
Very clever and thank you for taking the time to record, edit and share your work with those of us who appreciate your efforts to spread the knowledge. Cheers brother
Maxim you're a genius! That's exactly what I was looking for and just needs a geared Nema 17 - after all a cross slide only needs to move slowly. Personally I'd like to keep the scale on the handle, and be able to disengage the gear to use the handle manually without winding the motor, but these would be simple developments of a brilliantly simple design. Excellent engineering.
Excellent example of supreme engineering. Thankyou.
This modification of the cross-slide is very well done. I was looking for a solution to my cross-slide slop and this is the simplest fro me. Thank you for putting this video up.
I printed the gear box for stepper. Great job, Great design !! Thanks Maxim !
MAXIM YOU DID IT EXCELLENT, I AM EXPECTING MORE VIDEOS FROM YOU. THANKS FOR THE VALUABLE KNOWLEDGE THAT YOU SHAREED FOR US.
I printed out the part and set it up on my G0768 which is the same model. It works very well. Thank you.
I never thought about 3D printing the parts needed to add bearings.
I'm glad I got a chance to view this video. Now I can smooth out the cross-slide on my Mini Lathe.
Excellent work! Thank you Maxim.
That is seriously cool! Ill be adding bearings to mine for sure
Thanks so much for this. I printed it out but I should of measured first. After a few adjustments and 2 failed prints, this worked really well on my AL-51G. Now i've got to fix the compound slide's mount, it's so bad.
What a brilliant idea, its got to be the best cross slide upgrade I've seen on you tube, Well done.
What a fantastic design. Being able to keep the dial would be very beneficial though. Thank you for this!
Cheers from Canada
The dial is still there, added it after filming, see Thingiverse 🔗 in the description. Thanks!
well done the best improvement I have seen for this lathe I will defenatly use it on mine. Keep it up.
What an excellent modification, Great work!
Thank you very much it looks a lot of effort great video very clear. Will try it out.
excellent craftmanship. thanks for sharing.
Brilliant work. Particularly the neat way you added the stepper. Will be off to the 3D printer to do a basic model to start. Thanks so much.
Very nice job 👍
Nicely done! I'll have to look at mine to see what can be done to make it work better.
Dear, could you indicate the models of the two bearings? I love your videos, they are very helpful, Greetings from Argentina!
It's 8x16x5mm axial - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6001762 - not sure if they have a model name, maybe "F8-16M"? Thanks!
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thanks!
Hell of a job you are a genius you should start selling them
Great ideas. Nice work!
Really thank you for the idea and the file...
Hello
I really like what you did around
I have the same turn and I will embark on the modification
a small question
what model of tool holder is mounted on your lathe?
because the original model is not great
thank you
good continuation
gilles
Hi Gilles, my tool holder model is 250-000, it's not very rigid but works for my basic needs. Cheers!
those 3d prints are good. theres's some nice work here
I would like to make one for my warco wm180
How do you compensate the huge inertia of the wheel and handle? Wouldn't it be better if it would be driven directly with a planetary gear? I mean what for a improvement is that with the handle still on? I mean if I would have a lathe and I would upgrade it to a cnc lathe then personally I wouldn't need the handles anymore. I would load my G code in the cnc lathe and just supervise it. Anyhow great work. Keep it up!
Thank you. I was turning a part last night and used both ELS and the handles, was fun. Jumping through CNC hoops is only sometimes worth it in the home shop.
How does it work? Do you need to stop the ELS how does the cnc system know were to start again when you are finished using handles? I have a CNC 1830 the only modifications that I made are the end stops a beefed up Z carrier and a 800W 30000RPM spindle. I use Grbl and F360. I noticed that I can also can generate tool paths for cnc lathe in Fusion. And Grbl could be set as lathe as well. Do you have a homing and stops and a homing routine for your CNC lathe?
@@icebluscorpion see my other video on Rocketronics ELS, it doesn't require a computer at all, just position the tool and click in the operation needed.
@@MaximKachurovskiy I have also another question, what Lathe do you use and would you recommend it for the price that you bought ?what specs does it have?
@@icebluscorpion I'm using WM210V from AliExpress, it's gotten expensive now due to taxes and delivery charges so I can't wholeheartedly recommend it anymore. I have a long video on my channel about this lathe, please take a look if interested, it has a shop link too. Please keep in mind that I'm an absolute beginner in machining though.
🎉nice job thank you for sharing this with us
Very cool design.
Just found your channel and watched the x-axis power feed. Really impressed - great work. Any chance of future projects for powering the axes on a small milling machine?
Hi Gwentec, thank you, no plans for milling machine motorization yet but I'm sure you can get your machine upgraded if you put your mind to it 👍
@@MaximKachurovskiy Hi Maxim thanks for the update I'll give it my best shot.
Very cool. Good work.
Really smart, wish you could buy this.
Nice work
well done. thanks for sharing
Bruce here, great job of engineering and fabrication.
What a great video and project! I have the exact same lathe, with the same backlash problems in the cross slide. Would you be willing to share the fusion file you created for the replacement part? I would love to try it.
Thank you! Sure - a360.co/3rXmtzW
Looks like Fusion no longer lets to edit/download shared items, here's another attempt - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4712247
Hi maxim. Say could you tell me what degree your crosslide and tool post are set at. It looks like 30 degree on the crossslide. So would I put the tool post on 30 degree also. I’m playing around with it and it seems like my cutter is going at a slight angle.
Jack, yes, I'm using 30 degree on the top slide. Reason I did this is to have more control when trying to take off the last hundreds of a mm. My cutter is still parallel to the chuck as much as possible. Not sure if this is the best setup though, just too lazy to rotate it now :)
Excellent idea
A steel tube spacer between the two inner races would be nice, to transmit the tightening load via steel to the carriage, it would need to be cut to exactly the correct length to give you the right preload but you have a lathe with which to do that ;)
Great idea and easy to make.
This is the best upgrade I've ever seen! How can I donate to you for a perfect ideas?
Alexey, thank you! I'm not quite ready for that yet but appreciate your proposal very much.
Dude your the man I ordered mine about a month ago for my MX210-V Just got it yesterday and installed today and it has made a world of difference in the movement. (Now I just need to get it all adjusted right ). I recommend this too anyone with this type of lathe. Say do you by chance have one for the slide above that one ? Thanks. From a happy camper.
Jack, thank you for the kind words, I don't have anything for the top slide sadly.
Максим, а где вы брали станок?
Брал на Али но теперь эта модель неоправданно дорого стоит - m.aliexpress.com/item/32988496086.html - там есть другие достойные варианты
@@MaximKachurovskiy Спасибо!
very good job..thanks for your time
Hi Maxim, you can tell me what maximum voltage admits ore 17 and what would be the optimal voltage. Thank you!
Ismael, I'm currently using my NEMA 17 with 48V power supply, same as for the NEMA 23, and don't have any issues. Cheers!
@@MaximKachurovskiy thanks for answering. I also have it with 48v same wue nema23 but I notice that it heats up. What rms amperage do you use?
@@IsMaCR63 I'm on vacation now so can't look up the exact value. It could be ~1a. I assume it could be lowered untill you start having problems with torque?
@@MaximKachurovskiy at the moment I have no torque problems. I have 48v and 1.7a. the motor is 1.8a
Incredible project... Did you end-up keeping the Rocketronics controller ? I will sure use your hardware solution for the x and z drives and encoder... Quite a success.. Thank you for all this sharing...
Thank you, yes, Rocketronics solution is quite nice.
Would you have a Gcode model for the compound-slide?
Hi spurlte, you can find those files and more on Thingiverse, links are in the video description. Thanks!
Very clever 👍
Максим, подскажите, плиз, какую программу для черчения Вы используете в видео?
Maxim, please, can you tell me, what program do you use to draw?
На видео Fusion 360 но теперь я пользуюсь FreeCAD
@@MaximKachurovskiy спасибо
I have a similar lathe and it also has play on the handwheel. All in all, I got used to it
А шевронные колеса если печатать выгоды никакой? Может бекслеш на автоподаче меньше? И наверное надо было печать корпус со стальной трубкой внутри в которую запресованы подшипники? (Иначе жесткость подачи снизится)
Сергей, отличная идея, надо только понять как их во Fusion смоделировать.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Увы не подскажу, только FreeCad использую (там плугин "одной кнопкой" генерирует).Но может склеить пару косозубых?
@@SergeiPetrov ещё лучше! Как плагин называется подскажете?
@@MaximKachurovskiy Отвечал но похоже ссылку "съело" антиспамом.
Ты молодец. У нас схожая точка зрения. Правда у меня нет 3д принтера, пошел более простым путем, но твой вариант исчерпывает все нюансы. Возможно прибегну к твоему решению. Спасибо.
With this static gearbox the manual option is not possible!! Which make the Handel absolute or just act like an obstacle !!
Most ELS controllers disable steppers when not in use so the manual operation is still possible.
I did something very similar on a mill it works great.. like how u integrated it nicely.. great job 💪
GM 4L60E transmission thrust bearings
How did you make the controller box? Wiring, programming etc.
Hi Mert, check out github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels
@@MaximKachurovskiy thanks
Вопрос по теме: почему вы не расточили посадочное под подшипник в металлической части?
Нет опыта в такой работе, сложно зажать, нет 4-х кулачкового патрона, маленький подшипник вылезал бы наружу, хотелось иметь возможность возврата в исходную точку в случае неудачи. Деталька литая из алюминия и там внешний диаметр неровный.
@@MaximKachurovskiy понял, спасибо! вот только сегодня устанавливал 4кулачковый, сверлил отверстия, т.к. на нём 4 было, а нужно три :) Патрон сел как влитой.
Спасибо за ответы! Наверное попробую всё-таки расфрезеровать.. Только болтаться может и в месте, где гайка на резьбе стоит. Леха Технарь фрезеровал свою гайку с капролоновой вставкой - для меня это слишком сложно пока, да и фрезера нет :)
Nice video! Thanks. Had you change the interior nut screw? i mean at the other end of the vise.
Thanks! No, I didn't change any screws I believe.
@@MaximKachurovskiy At the end of the screw there is a nut that cannot be adjusted, they all tend to have slack, it's difficult to fix/adjust without a suitable nut. My lathe have arround 20 hundredths mm. slack, it's a lot!
Thanks for sharing with us your work, but I've not understand why you have not used the axial bearing 😊
I was mainly designing for the motorized version where there are significant lateral forces. For basic version I agree that axial bearings will perform better.
@@MaximKachurovskiy thanks for reply, I'm will search to mod my lathe with axial bearing 😊
@@antonio.stefanelli the same concept applies, just need to adjust the case for axial bearing sizes and allow for the outer axial bearing ring to spin freely.
Hey do u sell any of these 3d printed parts
Tyler, you can order any of these prints online, use the STL files linked in the video description and services from www.google.com/search?q=order+3d+print
hi maxim i roke the holder for my screw . do you still have the printing program . will muc apreciate that plase
Sure, please find the links in the description
Exactly, just a couple of week ago I got my lathe here and even today (year 2024) the China factories are having same issues ! what is really frustrating to me is, the factories have all the resources and quality raw materials the need to do it right yet they chose to cheap out on stuff like this... yes from day one I had to start modifying mine since I do not like at all bad precision machines .. next for me is the cross slide that even with the adjusting of those 3 screws will not do the job -- wayyy too much slack
Me gustaria si usted pudiera el esquematico para construir la electronica que mueve el motor, es un proyecto magnifico gracias.
Alberto, thank you, please find schematics in github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/discussions/22
Спасибо, Задумался над таким вариантом подключения второй оси.
Hi Maxim. Can you provide me with the fusion 360 file of the nema 17 motor bracket?
my lathe is the same as yours but the support on my lathe does not quite fit well and I have to modify it.
Thanks. A greeting.
Ismael, sure - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714722/files - best wishes!
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thank you very much, I did not see that you had it in thingiverse.
Hi Maxim, it's not clear to me how you control the movement of the two axis during the automatic threading of the bolt. Did you write a specific code with Arduino to make such operation?
Hey topmounting, yes - imgur.com/a/PKctaDy - in Arduino I'm using this work-in-progress code: gist.github.com/kachurovskiy/82bd219854d432c72eaa0d86237537b1
Amazing! I just Subs to see more of you genius ideas 👍🏼
Is this model on Thingaverse?
Do you have the blueprints on the 1st Baron Mount you made
Do you think a Nema 17 could work also ? considering there is the gear reduction too.
Nadas, yes, nema 17 is working well for me here. The movement is slow due to reduction but it's not a problem.
@@MaximKachurovskiy right now I am printing the version from thingiverse, I have a WM210V too it should fit, I would like to try the motorized version too if this works well.
@@cosminnci cool! Added the motorized model at www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714722
@@MaximKachurovskiy I just mounted the stand alone version works nice, the small bearing was harder to find, posted a make on thingiverse ;) for the motorized version I have the parts but need to make the electronics and control part. thank you ;)
@@cosminnci I just learned that only the first numbers matter for the bearing models as they define the physical dimensions - 608 and 688. The rest of the model name is likely non-critical for our application here. Nice touch with the washers on www.thingiverse.com/make:887608
Hello @
Maxim Kachurovskiy you make awesome project. Does your published code for Arduino support 2nd axis. I prepared everything and solder it to your PCB, but 2nd axis does'n work, so I guess project is still in progress right ?
Slamar, NanoEls is only for 1 axis. I'm working on a fork of a Russian project Digital Feed which supports 2 axis though it will take some more months to publish that. It will be a much larger PCB on Arduino Mega. Cheers!
@Maxim Kachorovskii Thank you for quick response, I appreciate that. That's my fault, I didn't check it before. I just find that project on GitHub discuss, I will try to follow it. Have a good day 😉 Last question, do You put Arduino mega under your 3D printed enclosure and You're using your Nanoels board to control it?
@@Slamar it will be a project unrelated to NanoEls. Mega will go under the PCB and a display will go on top of - imgur.com/a/BVN2619
@@MaximKachurovskiy Ok go it thanks 😁
Great! Thank you for that work. Does it fit for the Sieg SC3 lathe, it is called mini lathe also but I'd like to be shure.
Adrien, I don't think it will fit. You should be able to design a similar part yourself though, it's very easy in Fusion 360. Good luck!
@@MaximKachurovskiy you are right!
Maxim, why don't you use 100% infill? There will be no cracks around the screws...
Good point, didn't try that.
@@MaximKachurovskiy
I think a better option is to increase the "wall thickness / number of wall lines" parameter.
Do you have a all your stuff to print somewhere ?? I'll be purchasing one of these lathe soon. Great work
Hi choco107, thank you! I shared the model on www.thingiverse.com/thing:4712247 but it might not fit your particular lathe / bearings. I'm sure you will have little trouble designing one of these yourselves, Fusion 360 is really easy to use.
@@MaximKachurovskiy absolute legend thank you
Thanks for the video. I printed the no-motor version of this part and bearings are ordered. Using deep-groove bearings instead of thrust bearings is a good idea. They can take 1/3 of their rated radial load in the axial direction. For 608 bearings, their rated radial load (static) is 307 lbf (1370 N) so they function as a thrust bearing up to that point. (That's the low estimate---the dynamic limit may be as high as 260 lbf but that's probably for fairly high-speed turning. Hand operation is closer to static.) The axial load on the bearing during cutting is unknown but it could be as high as 100 lbf, so I would say that this is a marginal design. In theory, the cutting forces are straight down. Also, the elasticity of PLA is considerable compared even to aluminum, which is another weak point of this design. However, it looks like you've had good results so maybe it's good enough. I'm a fairly timid machinist so it will probably be good enough for me. I'd check the pre-load occasionally because PLA can creep a bit and you might find excess lash in the cross slide over several months. I think I'll Also, if you want to use the smaller bearing on both ends, a PLA spacer could solve the problem of the dial touching the other race. Compression is a strong mode for PLA and the printer has high resolution in the Z axis.
I’ve used PETG instead of PLA for all elements of stepper motor model. It seem more resistant.
I've used a lot of 3D printed parts for my lathe and mill. Interested in what type of filament you used. Some of my PLA parts were just not strong enough playing with infill and number of walls. Normally I have to make partial parts to make sure they will print especially for bearings or fasteners to fit. Nice work!
Yes, PLA is not the best. I've got some PETG but yet to try it. Afraid it will damage my printer bed :) Some people say it's a problem with PETG, others say it's not 🤷
@@MaximKachurovskiy Spray a light mist of unscented aquanet hairspray on the bed before printing. Works magic.
@@alanb76 I since printed a lot of petg and had no bed problems whatsoever :) thanks!
@@MaximKachurovskiy I had good luck with PETG on Isopropyl cleaned PEI until one day it would not release from the PEI and ruined the surface. Since then I've used a light mist of Aquanet on PEI and never had another problem. I also print TPU and PLA on Aquanet now, and rarely ever need to clean with Isopropyl. Aquanet coatings last quite a few prints, so it is much lower maintenance than PEI alone. It collects some dust but the prints come out fine. Occasionally cleaning with water removes the dust and Aquanet and a new mist is applied. I also avoid touching the surface as finger oil causes a lot of the common adhesion problems. Another misting every few prints is sufficient, and it saves a lot of alcohol. I've not even used a whole can of Aquanet in a couple years, not much is required. I also tried the Windex but Aquanet works better than Windex or Glue Stick.
Привет.
А почему решил отказаться от лимба в варианте с мотором: какие-то технические сложности или просто не нужен?
Привет, лимб добавил после того, как снял видео - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714722
@@MaximKachurovskiy my bad :D не посмотрел сразу модельку на thingiverse, спасибо!
Do you sell these parts on eBay or Etsy? This would make a great improvement in my slide as I don't have a plastic printer.
Mike, you can order prints online these days. Go for higher infill - maybe 90%. Best wishes!
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thanks Maxim.
Where is possible buy this parts?
That was excellent. !!!
Great video! Could you maybe do a little tour of your workshop?
Tom, great idea, thank you for this suggestion.
What size bearings did you use ? Thank you
Neale, 608-2RS on the front and 688ZZ on the back.
@@MaximKachurovskiy thank you
@@MaximKachurovskiy just done this mod, a friend used his 3d printer to make the part but didnt use full strength. I can feel a small amount of flex but the slide is so smooth now. I will be getting another made soon ( in a better colour) and full strength hopefully.
Я случайно по комментарию в другом канале увидел, что вы оказывается по русски говорите))) Интересная реализация электронной гитары у вас. Скорее всего хочу повторить ваш проект, только кнопки поставить побольше. Отлично!
Спасибо, успехов! Гитара с чипмейкера конечно круче но мою намного проще сделать.
@@MaximKachurovskiy тот вариант немного перемудрён, на мой взгляд.
Not sure but you’ve probably been asked a lot. But I can’t find any in the comments. Do you buy chance sell the part you made with your 3d printer with bearings installed. I have the MX210V lathe. But I don’t own a printer. So if you do how could I go about acquiring one from you. Thank you.
Hi Jack, thank you, you can order prints online shipped to your address. All the files needed for this are available on Thingiverse, see the links in the description. Best wishes!
@@MaximKachurovskiy thank you for getting back too me. And sending the drawings but I don’t own nor do I have a printer. Plus I don’t know anyone who does have one. That is why I asked if you sold these. Because I would be interested in buying one if you did.
@@Jaxter1137 please take a look at m.all3dp.com/1/best-online-3d-printing-service-3d-print-services/ - hope it helps.
@@MaximKachurovskiy ok thank you. I finally figured out how too order it and stuff so it is now ordered. When it arrived I will let ya know how it goes and I will also be doing the support your inventor thing. Thank you so much for all your time.
I like how you mounted the motor on the apron. I want to do something similar to my mini lathe. I would like to add power cross feed but I basically want a forward/reverse and possibly a speed control knob. How difficult do you think that would be?
That depends on your lathe model - which one you have? If you're interested in just the cross-feed control, www.aliexpress.com/item/33048497080.html should do that. Add stepper, driver and a power supply, connect wires together and it should work.
@@MaximKachurovskiy I will try to find a controller like that here in the US. What strength Nema 17 motor are you using?
@@bowtiedooley I'm using 0.42nm but 0.71nm version that's 60mm long will also fit. Due to gear reduction, it's multiplied by ~3x. Note that plastic parts don't like heat, if you need to run this for more than ~10 minutes at a time, some of the parts would have to be made of metal or heat-resistant filament.
You could make a new wheel for use with the motorized mount So you can keep your dial for threading. Maybe a stackable design with a pins so they all rotate together.
MrCinpro, interesting idea. I went with a plastic dial for now: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714722
I keep having people tell me not to purchase a sub 1200 USD Chinese lathe. Would you do it again?
They are really varied in quality, consider getting one from AliExpress with a lot of reviews. But of course, more money buy you more lathe :) Just beware the weight.
beau travail !!! merci ..
can u show cross slide nut??
See ruclips.net/video/9MUWdU1A8rE/видео.html around 10:17
Aluminium oxidizes so you will always get black oil ,
Anyway these small lathes tend to have a lot of backlash , because of the poor threading in the casting of the cross slide and Main feed slide, at a guess I expect they used the wrong Pitch for easy threading.
But yours is not to bad :)
I love the idea of adding nema motors, I do have a few spares around and a controller so i will have a go.
Я всё таки собираюсь растачивать родную деталь в 4-кулачковом патроне. Но где-то позже - пока при работе в ручном режиме эти люфты не сильно бесят.
Дело хозяйское, если моторчик не ставить то я может быть и не стал бы вообще заморачиваться. Я сначала сделал крепление с мотором а потом подумал что и без мотора будет полезно :)
Один момент правда - если родную делать зажать в патроне то нечем будет поперечку двигать :-Р
@@MaximKachurovskiy Ну ничего не мешает зажать поперечку, повернуть малую продольную на 90 градусов и использовать её вместо поперечки. Видел это в каком-то видео. А для ЧПУ - таки да, надо бы устранить все люфты. Или даже внедрить ШВП. (Капитан Очевидность). : D
@@humanspirit3432 ну ты хитрец :)
@@humanspirit3432 ЧПУ люфты умеет учитывать. Но без них на душе приятнее :)
l have paypal, how much for printed grey part????
You can order 3D prints shipped to your door online, please find the model file link in the description. Cheers!
скажите, резцедержка такая шла сразу в комплекте?
Нет, там в комплекте поворотная резцедержка на 4 резца плюс совсем хилая сменная. Эту брал отдельно.
Wow great improvement! Are you selling/sharing those STL files?
Maxi, please find the links in the description but I also hope that one day you'll take on the challenge to design something like this too 👍 It's really not too hard.
@@MaximKachurovskiy wow thanks! And yes i would like one day to be able to design usefull upgrades for myself, but im still on the learning phase haha (im a biologist, not even close as a machinist), thank you and best wishes
Макс, ты крут. Респект💪. И спасибо тебе за твой английский, я понял все👍
Спасибо, молодец!
Really great idea, thanks for sharing.
It is nice to have a 3 D printer.
Hallo Maxim, super Verbesserungen hast du dir einfallen lassen und danke fürs teilen!
This is genius! I also have a 3D-printer and make every kind of shit on it, but I could not realize I can print critical lathe parts on it! (And I also have a similar lathe with all the same problems :) ). But now I see: indeed - the possible additional deformation that the printed part brings to the whole cross slide assembly does not exceed the precision of the lathe. The play in the original design decreases the precision much more than your part(s)! Like odnoznachno! :)
Nice!! I think there is less backslash when using a Tooth belt. ;-)
Pierre, yes, but most of the backlash at this point is coming from the nut attached to the slide so the difference between using the belt and gears should be minimal.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Yes, that's correct, succes
сколько процентов заполнения при печати?
40 маловато, 90 хорошо. Другие варианты не пробовал.
Nice job but plastic isn't strong enough
Top Job, great!!!!!!!!! Germany