Great series! Something I might add is to buy a weight standard set, Lyman makes a good set which are in grains. This way you can check the calibration on your scale, electronic scale or balance beam scale.
Good solid information. 👍 Call me an antique if you like, but I've been using the same equipment for over six decades. A 1905 Ideal No.5 and a 1960 Ideal/Lyman #55 "powder measure" along with a Redding #1 scale since I began ages ago. All worked great then, and they work great now. If it ain't broke why fix it. 😅 And yes, my presses are equally old too. 😊
Love the series, was listening to this while using my chargemaster loading up some 6.5 Needmoore. 42.5 grn Win 6.5 StaBall.. pet load for my Seekins Havak.. great measure.
I have a couple of the drum style powder dispensers. Something to note is they measure some powder "styles" very differently, as in varied consistency of charge. Flake powders can measure more than a couple tenths of grain weight per charge, not a problem with large quantity charges if accuracy isn't the goal. Fast burning, large flake, pistol powders will make a difference in the smaller charges used for 9mm, .45 ACP, .38 Spl, .380ACP, etc. Sure, they work fine, but do you really want to spend more time measuring powder than you need to? Ball powders work well in drum dispensers. If it takes you an hour and a half to load 100 rounds of 9mm and you burn through them in 20 minutes, you're gonna want to find a better way or you'll end up buying ammo for the time and effort savings. Hunting loads, precision rifle, yeah, take all the time you need.
Shook ‘Nature Boy’ Rick Flair’s hand picking up luggage in Portland, OR airport. This was about 20 years ago. I told him, “My two sons were not going to believe this.” He grinned ear to ear.
I find it's not necessary to bell the case mouth on straight-walled cases. Use the chamfer tool to knock the sharp edge off the inside of the case mouth, and something like the Hornady seating die which has a follower to keep the bullet aligned during seating. It works every time for me and I've been doing it for several decades now. Edit: to be clear, I have done this for 10mm, 40, 9mm, 380, and 45.
"Basic Handloading" by George C. Nonte Jr. page 43: "Use of an adjustable powder measure will greatly speed up the operation." page 45: "If you discover an error after forty or fifty rounds have been completed, there may be no way to identify the cartridges that contain the error." "Usually, a charge that bulks abnormally high or low will do so at the expense of the charge thrown immediately before or after it. A light charge in the case might mean that some powder remained in the drop tube, and so was probably added to the next charge thrown; an overcharge probably indicates that powder hung up in the drop tube from the pervious charge, making it less than it should be." "If it seems that I'm dwelling overmuch on powder charging, remember that this is the most critical of all the handloading operations to safety. You'll get no joy or profit from handloading if a mistake or an oversight causes a gun to be wrecked or a shooter to be hurt. Handloading is essentially a very safe practice, provided one adheres to the basic safety requirements and concentrates on the job at hand." Robert A. Rinker also tells the same thing as above in his book titled "Understanding Firearm Ballistics 6th Edition. There is a business that sells replacement powder hopper that are made of Pyrex instead of plastic which should by all means stop any static electricity from building up on the powder in the hopper so that powder bridging in the drop down portion should be a thing of the past. Static electricity is a Handloader's nightmare. So get a DRAM WORX - Pyrex Replacement Hoppers. Oh, and replace the plastic down spout with a metal one too. Actually one should not use any plastic tools that come in contact with the powder to be on the safe side of things. I weigh every charge! I use a powder thrower to dispense powder into the scale pan, a trickler to round off the charge weight on a beam scale, and then I set the pan onto a digital scale as a double check. If the two scales do not agree I recheck the beam scale poises and re-zero the digital scale. Normally it is the digital scale that has drifted, but once it was a beam scale poise got moved by accident. Either way all my powder charges get checked three times. Twice by scales and once with a visual, in the loading block, after I have charged a batch before seating bullets. This routine if followed religiously will negate all squib loads, hang-fires and double charges by 100%. I do what I do for safety, not speed, cause as the old saying goes "SPEED KILLS!" And I encourage all to not find out the hard way. And It is the ones that are in a hurry that end up having squib loads, hang-fires, and double charges, and put bystanders at risk of injury or death. And when some one gets hurt it will not be considered an accident but rather reckless conduct with a firearm or possibly involuntary manslaughter! If you are going to reload you need to take responsibility and check every powder charge! As safety should always be the #1 priority when reloading, not rushing through the process to save time!
I think Steve should say "granule" instead of "grain" when describing weighing and trickling powder. Also a statement of "consult and follow the advice printed in a relevant reloading manual" would be helpful for shooters new to reloading/handloading.
You guys ever try to put some powder in your coffee for a little extra boost? I bet it would make some of the best flame’s come out the rear end once you light a match.
I’ve been reloading for about 10 years. Virtually all my equipment is Lee. I just can’t get my mind to accept using Lee’s scoops is ok. They are usually way off from a weighed measure. Does anybody use them?
I am enjoying your Reloading Series very much! Thanks!
I'd like to see a video on case trimmers - cutting them to length.
Great series! Something I might add is to buy a weight standard set, Lyman makes a good set which are in grains. This way you can check the calibration on your scale,
electronic scale or balance beam scale.
This is a really good series.
Thank you for producing it!
Make sure your casing is primed before you dump your powder through your case expander.
Good solid information. 👍
Call me an antique if you like, but I've been using the same equipment for over six decades. A 1905 Ideal No.5 and a 1960 Ideal/Lyman #55 "powder measure" along with a Redding #1 scale since I began ages ago. All worked great then, and they work great now. If it ain't broke why fix it. 😅
And yes, my presses are equally old too. 😊
Thumbs up if you yelled "Woooo!" when you heard Rick Flair's name.
👍😂👍😂👍😂!!!
Love the series, was listening to this while using my chargemaster loading up some 6.5 Needmoore. 42.5 grn Win 6.5 StaBall.. pet load for my Seekins Havak.. great measure.
I have a couple of the drum style powder dispensers. Something to note is they measure some powder "styles" very differently, as in varied consistency of charge. Flake powders can measure more than a couple tenths of grain weight per charge, not a problem with large quantity charges if accuracy isn't the goal. Fast burning, large flake, pistol powders will make a difference in the smaller charges used for 9mm, .45 ACP, .38 Spl, .380ACP, etc. Sure, they work fine, but do you really want to spend more time measuring powder than you need to? Ball powders work well in drum dispensers. If it takes you an hour and a half to load 100 rounds of 9mm and you burn through them in 20 minutes, you're gonna want to find a better way or you'll end up buying ammo for the time and effort savings. Hunting loads, precision rifle, yeah, take all the time you need.
In the process of reloading now. But I still measure each and every powder charge on a scale.
Ditto!
you guys are really doing a good job
Very Basic Beginner Stuff .
Another great video.
Shook ‘Nature Boy’ Rick Flair’s hand picking up luggage in Portland, OR airport. This was about 20 years ago. I told him, “My two sons were not going to believe this.” He grinned ear to ear.
nice!
Great series really enjoy all your videos please keep’em coming !!
I watched a old Brownells video the other day...FYI for those out there, Steve did have blondish brown hair at one time..😆😄😄
Covered it. Good video
I find it's not necessary to bell the case mouth on straight-walled cases. Use the chamfer tool to knock the sharp edge off the inside of the case mouth, and something like the Hornady seating die which has a follower to keep the bullet aligned during seating. It works every time for me and I've been doing it for several decades now. Edit: to be clear, I have done this for 10mm, 40, 9mm, 380, and 45.
Hornady bullets great, Hornady electronics are a no go.
"Basic Handloading" by George C. Nonte Jr.
page 43:
"Use of an adjustable powder measure will greatly speed up the operation."
page 45:
"If you discover an error after forty or fifty rounds have been completed, there may be no way to identify the cartridges that contain the error."
"Usually, a charge that bulks abnormally high or low will do so at the expense of the charge thrown immediately before or after it. A light charge in the case might mean that some powder remained in the drop tube, and so was probably added to the next charge thrown; an overcharge probably indicates that powder hung up in the drop tube from the pervious charge, making it less than it should be."
"If it seems that I'm dwelling overmuch on powder charging, remember that this is the most critical of all the handloading operations to safety. You'll get no joy or profit from handloading if a mistake or an oversight causes a gun to be wrecked or a shooter to be hurt. Handloading is essentially a very safe practice, provided one adheres to the basic safety requirements and concentrates on the job at hand."
Robert A. Rinker also tells the same thing as above in his book titled "Understanding Firearm Ballistics 6th Edition.
There is a business that sells replacement powder hopper that are made of Pyrex instead of plastic which should by all means stop any static electricity from building up on the powder in the hopper so that powder bridging in the drop down portion should be a thing of the past. Static electricity is a Handloader's nightmare. So get a DRAM WORX - Pyrex Replacement Hoppers. Oh, and replace the plastic down spout with a metal one too. Actually one should not use any plastic tools that come in contact with the powder to be on the safe side of things.
I weigh every charge! I use a powder thrower to dispense powder into the scale pan, a trickler to round off the charge weight on a beam scale, and then I set the pan onto a digital scale as a double check. If the two scales do not agree I recheck the beam scale poises and re-zero the digital scale. Normally it is the digital scale that has drifted, but once it was a beam scale poise got moved by accident. Either way all my powder charges get checked three times. Twice by scales and once with a visual, in the loading block, after I have charged a batch before seating bullets. This routine if followed religiously will negate all squib loads, hang-fires and double charges by 100%. I do what I do for safety, not speed, cause as the old saying goes "SPEED KILLS!" And I encourage all to not find out the hard way.
And It is the ones that are in a hurry that end up having squib loads, hang-fires, and double charges, and put bystanders at risk of injury or death. And when some one gets hurt it will not be considered an accident but rather reckless conduct with a firearm or possibly involuntary manslaughter! If you are going to reload you need to take responsibility and check every powder charge! As safety should always be the #1 priority when reloading, not rushing through the process to save time!
What are your thoughts on annealing?
I think Steve should say "granule" instead of "grain" when describing weighing and trickling powder. Also a statement of "consult and follow the advice printed in a relevant reloading manual" would be helpful for shooters new to reloading/handloading.
Great series! When is the Hornady G3 coming in? Website shows it's out of stock.
Including calibration or at least using check weights to confirm that a scale is accurate would be helpful.
Can we get a video for de-crimping primer pockets?
Absolutely, it's already filmed and currently being edited.
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Powder dispensing meant something completely different in the 80s. But I guess both sped things up quite a bit. lol
Should have shown how easy to use the RCBS LITTLE DANDY POWDER MEASURE for pistol cases is, used one for years and is very accurate.
I'll add it to the list
You guys ever try to put some powder in your coffee for a little extra boost? I bet it would make some of the best flame’s come out the rear end once you light a match.
Barney Fife 😅
Who's Barney?😄
Links to the products on the Brownells web sit would be great!
Cant, goes against RUclips policy because we sell guns.
@ more ridiculous rules! Thankfully the Brownells web site is easy to work through! Maybe I do need to start using rumble more?
When is the trimming video coming out
It's filmed, currently in editing so a few weeks.
I’ve been reloading for about 10 years. Virtually all my equipment is Lee. I just can’t get my mind to accept using Lee’s scoops is ok. They are usually way off from a weighed measure. Does anybody use them?
Don’t use them. I weigh every charge and use a funnel.
HOW DARE YOU READ COMMENTS WHILE THE KING IS SPEAKING!
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