I've become accustomed to getting all my information in 8-15 ,minute videos, and I have to say this was the BEST 1.5 hours I could have spent. Seeing you run into all the unknowns was pure gold.
Wow, thanks! Long videos aren't everyones cup of tea, but skipping over the pain points never helps :) Nearly all of my videos are unscripted and "real time" and I have heard other users say they speed them up 1.5 and 2x in some cases.
This is gold! Can’t thank you enough for showing this process and putting it together the way you do. Truly helps new designers understand the process!
You are welcome! A lot of these videos come from questions I get so sometimes they may seem very specific. Don't hesitate to ask a question if you get stuck on something.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign thank you! Do you have any tutorials on dash/center console work? I am having trouble approaching parts of my project especially when it comes to creating organic curves on parts of the center console. I utilize offset planes to create shapes and extrude cut, but somehow it does not give me an organic feel or look. I even fillet and still it lacks the consistency feel. Another part where I am struggling is connecting prims to other parts that don’t have a flat surface (extending only the edge that needs to move further into the part sometimes “cuts the part”) I take it most of it is my lack of experience, but I am trying and these tutorials are extremely helpful!
@@hamyg7724 are you working off scan data or just trying to build something from scratch? I do have this tutorial which was a dash piece for a dodge charger ruclips.net/video/4fU3PUs2syM/видео.html
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign right now I am working with measurements of the space I have to design a center console (I created a rectangular rough shape and chipped at it by removing and cutting at sections where the shifter go, the e-brake…etc. But some of those components I’d like to place on curved/semi organic shaped areas to avoid making it feel flat. I will take a view at the link you proved thank you! I did order a 3D scanner so I can re create some of the older or broken parts. Hopefully I can also use it for some reverse engineering.
Very welcome! In the scan to widebody series where i scan my starion fender we spend a good portion of that modeling the fender before making a wide version. If you are working on anything with harder edges id suggest taking a look there if you need some practice.
Awesome! i have a video planned talking about scan quality on hobby vs professional scanners coming soon. I am working with a buddy of mine who has heavily invested in professional scanning to get some datasets.
Great information. Just purchase a revopoint scanner to help with making carbon fiber parts for the car. This is a great episode on how to use the mesh to assist with then making aftermarket parts.
Great video! I always struggled designing with Forms in Fusion 360. Thanks to this tutorial i finnaly was able to create something that wasnt wavy and creasy. (or just a undefined Blob) ^^ The Video was easy to follow and very informative. Thank you very much for your Work!
Glad it helped! I have loads of Forms videos, but if something isn't answered feel free to ask. Also I have started a discord channel so if you want to join just email support@caducator.com and i'll get you the link.
QUESTION - Great tutorial by the way , I'm trying to convert this sheet metal curved body of the fender into a " SHEET METAL BODY " so that it could be unfolded, and then laser/water jet cut , and rolled out on roller machines to form. Could you please show how to conver the fender covered throughout this one video to a sheet metal body that can be unfolded so I can convert it to DXF for cutting. I'm modeling airplane sheet metal bodies at my aircraft job :) Im trying to look smart so this would be super helpful for me to impress someone.
Hey there! you sadly aren't going to like my answer.... It can't be done (in Fusion). There is an add-in called Exact Flat but its expensive. Other programs like Inventor and Solidworks(top license option) have a flatten surface feature. When you flatten a complex shape like a fender there will be a color map to show you areas that stretched more/less from the original design. You can then take that shape and export as a dxf. Typically this is done for fabric for composites or to make decals. Sheet metal in Fusion (aside a bit from the lofted flange option) is not made by forming, but by bending. So it can only deal with single axis bends and not complex forms. For what its worth Solidworks, Inventor etc don't convert complex shapes to sheet metal either. They flatten a surface "skin" of the part. Sorry!
How would you go about reverse engineering the Tesla Cybertruck? I need to make a solid model and thought it would be a fairly simple model to do as a beginner due to all the flat sides but turns out it’s more complicated then i thought
Replied to your other comment. I would use surfaces and either 2d projected sketches or 3d sketches for the boundaries. Do you have blueprints of the truck to start?
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign i have seen blueprints online and many pictures that can be scaled with know measurements but most seem to be based on older 2019 version the products 2023 version is smaller. But since Tesla just announced the cybertruck delivery date Nov 30 we should now be able to get accurate information shortly
Thanks again for the video, I have a question regarding you scan data. When I insert a mesh, the colour of my file is usually orange/pink/blue etc with lots of triangles. I noticed your files are usually little squares instead. Is this something to do with a different version of fusion ? Cheers edit: I just realised it's tri to quad conversion which I don't have in the hobby version :')
So at thw beginning of the video you mention that Professional scanners use $1000 to $10000 software to work with the data before you bring it into CAD. Can you use the hobby scanner data in that $1000 software and what kind of results would you get? Asking for those of us who would be willing to fund a $500 scanner and $1000-$1500 worth of software to have a "prosumer" solution but who can't afford the $10k+ for a full F1 laser scanner.
I might be reviewing the other end of the spectrum soon with this www.creality.com/products/cr-scan-ferret-3d-scanner So in a case like this fender where we are using the mesh as a guide yes. It always comes back to how you are going to make the part. If you use a high end scanner and get +- .04mm accuracy, does it matter if you 3d print your parts? The widebody series I did(which i haven't finished the real part yet) i used an Einscan ProHD and didn't use any intermediate mesh software, just what comes with the scanner. The Einstar they have is around the $1000 mark at looks pretty good for the price. Hopefully i can test some lower end units on the same part and give you a real world comparison. working on getting a scanner for that now.
Hi Matt. You say in this video, as it’s for a race car total accuracy isn’t such a big deal. To get the most accuracy, what techniques, tools, etc would you use? Thanks!
Well the start would be the highest accuracy scan. Pro scanners would scan the fender with .02mm accuracy while most hobby scanners are in the .2mm accuracy. The second thing is that I knew from the user that asked the question that this was going to be a single 3d print on a large home built machine. So a highly detailed CAD model wouldn't have added much to the process:) IF the design was going to be CNC machined for example then you would take more time ensuring the scan was high resolution and that the part fit that high res scan. Really not a whole lot different to the process, but just working with higher density mesh and spending more time on how the parts fit together.
Thx for a nice video. I want to scan a van and make furniture for a camping car. And I want to have an idea how I can design furniture using scanned file with fusion 360. If you dont mind, could you make some video how to do it?.
I would love too, but it would be awhile. I was going to get ride of my travel trailer and build a Sprinter and do that exact thing, but plans changed a bit. It is on my list.
Beginner here. Just did my first scan of a fiberglass chair I laid up myself. When importing scan data do you want to import the finished mesh design or would it be better to import at a fused cloud level ? Thanks much for your shares.
Part of it depends on the quality of the mesh and where it came from. When pulling a freeform body down to a bumpy mesh you will get bad results. But if you have a really dense smooth mesh it is a great option. So if your mesh/scan software lets you do a nice clean processed mesh with all the detail you need, bring that. If you start to smooth and refine the mesh and notice a lot of your detail going away, bring in a more raw version.
Sigh, I'm trying so hard to follow along at this and I just can't wrap my head around it for my project. So frustrated. I have a great scan I just can't seem to make it happen. Your video is excellent, I'm just not cut out for this I guess.
You can do it! Just make sure you start with the basics of form manipulation first. I have a forms course on www.LearnEverythingAboutDesign.com for $10 or you can go through the forms mastery playlist on this channel for free. Definitely need to grasp the basics of form manipulation. edit form first.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I kind of figured it out using a very crude way. I extruded into the face of the scan, and now I'm using that to make my part. It only needs the face of the scan to mount to with 3M tape. I'm going to keep learning though and hopefully learn how to do it the right way.
well you can't cut a surface or solid with a mesh body to the best of my knowledge. And after you add additional lines/edges to the form, when you pull down just the outside edges it will deform the shape. If you are 3d printing the fender you can convert it to a mesh and then use the mesh combine tool to remove the original that way.
When inserting the scan mesh does it come in to scale? If not, how would you go about getting the mesh to it’s actual size to be able to build off of? Great video!
Generally the scale of the mesh would be handled in whatever software you use to read in the scan data. If you have to scale it in Fusion it would be a bit rough honestly. There isn't a true scale other than measuring between points(in direct mesh edit mode) and scaling the entire thing.
Thank your video!. I got a question can we use pull T-spline command to bring faces to mesh? Will the fender surface be messed with the wheel arch surface?
Yes you can! BUT, the problem is that pulling down to a mesh depends heavily on the quality of the mesh. In the case of this scan it was not smooth so wrapping to it would not achieve the best results. I have 2 videos in the forms mastery playlist that cover this topic. This first video talks about the different ways to attached a form to something.(i did also cover match in a few videos but that is to an edge of a solid/surface) ruclips.net/video/Jd4adQN9FxI/видео.html And this one that covers how much resolution you need to match a very high resolution mesh. ruclips.net/video/PuCwSUPJ16Q/видео.html
try Shift + F or go to Inspect > Display Mesh Face Groups. That might be on. If you see a color bar in your timeline and in your browser then you may have put on Component color cycling. turn that off and it should go to whatever apperance you have. Mesh face groups are helpful if you are trying to convert a mesh to a BREP solid, but other than that they can be a pain.
Hi, I purchased a Leica TS50A scanner from an auction online and it didn't include the software. Do you know if it will only operate with the Leica software or is there a generic software that can be used?
I am not sure but the first place I would check is with them directly leica-geosystems.com/en-us/products/laser-scanners/software/leica-cyclone Sometimes the scan software is part of a license package and its possible that is tied to the serial number of your scanner.
That is a tough question. The resolution listed on most of the hobby scanners from places like Revo or Creality seem to be descent. Where you start to run into issues is the distance from the part and compounding accuracy errors when you have to capture multiple positions. The Revopoint Mini is supposed to be the best bridge between pro and hobby, but I think it is still at the kickstarter stage. My suggestion is to look at a few aspects of this. What do you want to scan/do with the data and what is your budget. If you look at HandyScans, you are in the $20k+ market, but an Einscan is around $5000. If you want to spend under $1000 I would check out videos on the Revopoint Mini and the Creality CR-Scan 01. See what people are saying about those. If you want to spend a bit more I would look at EinScan. Last bit to keep in mind, the scan data needs to be processed before it goes into CAD. Think about that as it could be a considerable cost if you are looking at this from a professional perspective. If you are trying to do it all hobby/open source MeshLab is free and powerful but not very user friendly.
I'm making parts based on the body of different Motorcycles will get into cars once I get a few of these products done been hiring people to edit files for me not so bad so far
Gotcha, something you need to think about is how you are making the parts as well. For example if you have a really high quality scanner and software but are using a low res 3d printer to build molds then it is likely not worth the money. I think something like an Einscan will be a good investment, but maybe to get started the revopoint mini might be a good entry. I have seen some descent scans come out of them.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesignJust thought i'd jump in as a guy who regularly uses 3D scanners for designing motorcycle parts. I'd recommend an Einstar 3d scanner, they're worlds above the likes of the Revopoint Pop 2, and much closer to professional level scanners like the Creality Handyscan 3d black or Einscan HX. That being said for small parts I often design parts around Iphone scans, using the face ID scanner for detailed small parts and the lidar scanner for larger parts like fairings etc where the detail isn't as important. All really comes down to what you need from the scan and how challenging the object is. Don't forget also that scanning spray makes a massive difference.
@@Torques_moto Great info! It is cool to hear you are able to get usable info out of iPhone scans too! I have mentioned the scan sprays in other videos. Some users (like superfastmatt) use babypowder in an alcohol solution in a spray bottle. I have used primer on sacrificial parts. Weld prep spray or dedicated scanner spray gets expensive for sure. If someone rolled in with a new bike to scan, you better believe I would use the scan spray that has no cleanup but a short window to scan. For my own stuff I generally beat sheet metal forms, primer would be fine and then design.
That was the slowest, most non exact way to approximate the surface. In no way were vertices of the actual scan used. There are surfacing tools out there that create surfaces using the scam data far easier. Look at my own vx elements class A Surfacing example.
Thank you for your comment. This video is how to model the fender for a racecar off scan data in Fusion 360. Fusion is not a Class A program nor a mesh/scanning program. Fusion doesn't have the ability to wrap a mesh nicely. Any noise in the mesh creates ripples in the surface. Fusion can snap to the mesh and pull the vertices down to the mesh but that is generally reserved for a very dense high quality mesh or else the results are not great. A Class A or mesh program that is specifically design to wrap a mesh with a nurbs surface is a different approach. At no point do I say Fusion is the best or only way to do this, but I am showing how to get the best quality result when using Fusion. Fusion is free for Hobby users, VX Elements is not(to the best of my knowledge). Not to mention the user in this case is 3d printing this fender. So using free software and consumer scanners vs Creaform and VX elements or vx model. In these videos users send me models they are struggling with and I try to walk them through at a slow pace how to approach the model.
with all this technology and scanners becoming more affordable it boggles me how we have the most rediculous miriad of features but not one program that takes the scanned obj,ply or stl for direct cad,why on earth waste time creating all these redundant tools to essentialy do what the program is supposed to do
There are programs that will "auto surface" scan/mesh data. Solidworks tries. Fusion "can" do this if you have the product design extension (not avail for hobby users). But basically it needs to convert the tri mesh to a quad mesh. If you have a quad mesh you can attempt to directly convert that to a form. What you find is that these types of conversions never offer up ideal geometry. The Autosurface tools in programs like Geomagic and QuickSurface could get you a surface model, but again you wouldn't have any sort of control/input on the shape. In a case like this I knew the user wanted to make a variation of the fender for their race car and the final was to be 3d printed.
Well you can do that with some things. In scan software you can close a scan but that doesn't really work for thin parts. and then you don't get to modify it. If you scan say a figure that has a flat base on a turntable, you can close it on the bottom and send that mesh right to print.
These videos are done to answer users questions on how to do this. The specific case was for a 3d printed race car fender. What about the result was mediocre?
I had to re-upload this video because I left the outro around 11min in the original. This is the same video and part 2 is coming later today.
I've become accustomed to getting all my information in 8-15 ,minute videos, and I have to say this was the BEST 1.5 hours I could have spent. Seeing you run into all the unknowns was pure gold.
Wow, thanks! Long videos aren't everyones cup of tea, but skipping over the pain points never helps :) Nearly all of my videos are unscripted and "real time" and I have heard other users say they speed them up 1.5 and 2x in some cases.
I had to stop the video to say THANKYOU!!! The orientation at the beginning was so helpful.
You're welcome!
Can't thank you enough for your videos - you seem to make a video catered specifically to my needs every time I need to learn something new.
You are welcome Brook! Sounds like you might be making something cool ;)
This is gold! Can’t thank you enough for showing this process and putting it together the way you do. Truly helps new designers understand the process!
You are welcome! A lot of these videos come from questions I get so sometimes they may seem very specific. Don't hesitate to ask a question if you get stuck on something.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign thank you! Do you have any tutorials on dash/center console work? I am having trouble approaching parts of my project especially when it comes to creating organic curves on parts of the center console. I utilize offset planes to create shapes and extrude cut, but somehow it does not give me an organic feel or look. I even fillet and still it lacks the consistency feel. Another part where I am struggling is connecting prims to other parts that don’t have a flat surface (extending only the edge that needs to move further into the part sometimes “cuts the part”) I take it most of it is my lack of experience, but I am trying and these tutorials are extremely helpful!
@@hamyg7724 are you working off scan data or just trying to build something from scratch? I do have this tutorial which was a dash piece for a dodge charger ruclips.net/video/4fU3PUs2syM/видео.html
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign right now I am working with measurements of the space I have to design a center console (I created a rectangular rough shape and chipped at it by removing and cutting at sections where the shifter go, the e-brake…etc. But some of those components I’d like to place on curved/semi organic shaped areas to avoid making it feel flat. I will take a view at the link you proved thank you! I did order a 3D scanner so I can re create some of the older or broken parts. Hopefully I can also use it for some reverse engineering.
This is immensely useful! Thanks for all the effort you put in
My pleasure!
I had to stop watching for a moment and prepare my card to pay for the paid fusion 360 subscription. Its inevitable. Great work once again.
Glad you're enjoying it! I personally think Fusion is worth the price!
Thank you so much for this video. I'll be watching this series over and over until I too can master this art
Very welcome! In the scan to widebody series where i scan my starion fender we spend a good portion of that modeling the fender before making a wide version. If you are working on anything with harder edges id suggest taking a look there if you need some practice.
This is awesome I just bought a Revopoint mini. This video is gonna be useful. TY
Awesome! i have a video planned talking about scan quality on hobby vs professional scanners coming soon. I am working with a buddy of mine who has heavily invested in professional scanning to get some datasets.
Great information. Just purchase a revopoint scanner to help with making carbon fiber parts for the car. This is a great episode on how to use the mesh to assist with then making aftermarket parts.
Very Cool! The series I am working on now we will be designing a fender flare thats an over fender off a scan.
Great video!
I always struggled designing with Forms in Fusion 360.
Thanks to this tutorial i finnaly was able to create something that wasnt wavy and creasy. (or just a undefined Blob) ^^
The Video was easy to follow and very informative.
Thank you very much for your Work!
Glad it helped! I have loads of Forms videos, but if something isn't answered feel free to ask. Also I have started a discord channel so if you want to join just email support@caducator.com and i'll get you the link.
Great content...My practice with You ended almost identically...😁 Thanks and time to part 2...🙃
Great job!
Great vid. Correct term for the crease is a swage line
Thanks MODE Vans! I had only used that term for fittings before and hadn't heard it used on a bodyline so good to know!
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign your welcome. Can’t wait to dig into more of the vids as I’m looking to scan a few projects soon. 👌🏼
Absolutely lovely stuff!
Many thanks!
QUESTION - Great tutorial by the way , I'm trying to convert this sheet metal curved body of the fender into a " SHEET METAL BODY " so that it could be unfolded, and then laser/water jet cut , and rolled out on roller machines to form. Could you please show how to conver the fender covered throughout this one video to a sheet metal body that can be unfolded so I can convert it to DXF for cutting. I'm modeling airplane sheet metal bodies at my aircraft job :) Im trying to look smart so this would be super helpful for me to impress someone.
Hey there! you sadly aren't going to like my answer.... It can't be done (in Fusion). There is an add-in called Exact Flat but its expensive. Other programs like Inventor and Solidworks(top license option) have a flatten surface feature. When you flatten a complex shape like a fender there will be a color map to show you areas that stretched more/less from the original design. You can then take that shape and export as a dxf. Typically this is done for fabric for composites or to make decals.
Sheet metal in Fusion (aside a bit from the lofted flange option) is not made by forming, but by bending. So it can only deal with single axis bends and not complex forms. For what its worth Solidworks, Inventor etc don't convert complex shapes to sheet metal either. They flatten a surface "skin" of the part.
Sorry!
Great video!
Thanks!
pro! thank you!
You're welcome!
Excellent!
Many thanks Pedro!
How would you go about reverse engineering the Tesla Cybertruck? I need to make a solid model and thought it would be a fairly simple model to do as a beginner due to all the flat sides but turns out it’s more complicated then i thought
Replied to your other comment. I would use surfaces and either 2d projected sketches or 3d sketches for the boundaries. Do you have blueprints of the truck to start?
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign i have seen blueprints online and many pictures that can be scaled with know measurements but most seem to be based on older 2019 version the products 2023 version is smaller. But since Tesla just announced the cybertruck delivery date Nov 30 we should now be able to get accurate information shortly
Superb tutorial!!!
Thanks a lot 😊
Thanks again for the video, I have a question regarding you scan data.
When I insert a mesh, the colour of my file is usually orange/pink/blue etc with lots of triangles. I noticed your files are usually little squares instead. Is this something to do with a different version of fusion ? Cheers
edit: I just realised it's tri to quad conversion which I don't have in the hobby version :')
Thanks.
I am a facade Engineer, I would like to know about Reverse Engineering in Facade.Can you please prepare a video about this.
I am sorry, I am not sure what you mean by Facade, is that a program you are using?
So at thw beginning of the video you mention that Professional scanners use $1000 to $10000 software to work with the data before you bring it into CAD. Can you use the hobby scanner data in that $1000 software and what kind of results would you get? Asking for those of us who would be willing to fund a $500 scanner and $1000-$1500 worth of software to have a "prosumer" solution but who can't afford the $10k+ for a full F1 laser scanner.
I might be reviewing the other end of the spectrum soon with this www.creality.com/products/cr-scan-ferret-3d-scanner
So in a case like this fender where we are using the mesh as a guide yes. It always comes back to how you are going to make the part. If you use a high end scanner and get +- .04mm accuracy, does it matter if you 3d print your parts?
The widebody series I did(which i haven't finished the real part yet) i used an Einscan ProHD and didn't use any intermediate mesh software, just what comes with the scanner. The Einstar they have is around the $1000 mark at looks pretty good for the price. Hopefully i can test some lower end units on the same part and give you a real world comparison. working on getting a scanner for that now.
Hi Matt. You say in this video, as it’s for a race car total accuracy isn’t such a big deal. To get the most accuracy, what techniques, tools, etc would you use? Thanks!
Well the start would be the highest accuracy scan. Pro scanners would scan the fender with .02mm accuracy while most hobby scanners are in the .2mm accuracy. The second thing is that I knew from the user that asked the question that this was going to be a single 3d print on a large home built machine. So a highly detailed CAD model wouldn't have added much to the process:) IF the design was going to be CNC machined for example then you would take more time ensuring the scan was high resolution and that the part fit that high res scan.
Really not a whole lot different to the process, but just working with higher density mesh and spending more time on how the parts fit together.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign thank you Matt. You’re always very helpful.
Hi Matt. Hope you're well?
Please can you tell me what scanner was used for the fender?
Thank you!
The scan was sent to me but I was told it was a CR-Scan 01. So entry level/hobby scanner.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign thank you !
Thx for a nice video. I want to scan a van and make furniture for a camping car. And I want to have an idea how I can design furniture using scanned file with fusion 360. If you dont mind, could you make some video how to do it?.
I would love too, but it would be awhile. I was going to get ride of my travel trailer and build a Sprinter and do that exact thing, but plans changed a bit. It is on my list.
@LearnEverythingAboutDesign wow that's a great news. Can't wait!
Beginner here. Just did my first scan of a fiberglass chair I laid up myself. When importing scan data do you want to import the finished mesh design or would it be better to import at a fused cloud level ? Thanks much for your shares.
Part of it depends on the quality of the mesh and where it came from. When pulling a freeform body down to a bumpy mesh you will get bad results. But if you have a really dense smooth mesh it is a great option.
So if your mesh/scan software lets you do a nice clean processed mesh with all the detail you need, bring that. If you start to smooth and refine the mesh and notice a lot of your detail going away, bring in a more raw version.
Sigh, I'm trying so hard to follow along at this and I just can't wrap my head around it for my project. So frustrated. I have a great scan I just can't seem to make it happen. Your video is excellent, I'm just not cut out for this I guess.
You can do it! Just make sure you start with the basics of form manipulation first. I have a forms course on www.LearnEverythingAboutDesign.com for $10 or you can go through the forms mastery playlist on this channel for free. Definitely need to grasp the basics of form manipulation. edit form first.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I kind of figured it out using a very crude way. I extruded into the face of the scan, and now I'm using that to make my part. It only needs the face of the scan to mount to with 3M tape. I'm going to keep learning though and hopefully learn how to do it the right way.
Great video,why not model the kit then use the scan as a cutting tool to get perfect alignment and perfect seem with car fender
well you can't cut a surface or solid with a mesh body to the best of my knowledge. And after you add additional lines/edges to the form, when you pull down just the outside edges it will deform the shape.
If you are 3d printing the fender you can convert it to a mesh and then use the mesh combine tool to remove the original that way.
When inserting the scan mesh does it come in to scale? If not, how would you go about getting the mesh to it’s actual size to be able to build off of? Great video!
Generally the scale of the mesh would be handled in whatever software you use to read in the scan data. If you have to scale it in Fusion it would be a bit rough honestly. There isn't a true scale other than measuring between points(in direct mesh edit mode) and scaling the entire thing.
Thank your video!. I got a question can we use pull T-spline command to bring faces to mesh? Will the fender surface be messed with the wheel arch surface?
Yes you can! BUT, the problem is that pulling down to a mesh depends heavily on the quality of the mesh. In the case of this scan it was not smooth so wrapping to it would not achieve the best results.
I have 2 videos in the forms mastery playlist that cover this topic. This first video talks about the different ways to attached a form to something.(i did also cover match in a few videos but that is to an edge of a solid/surface)
ruclips.net/video/Jd4adQN9FxI/видео.html
And this one that covers how much resolution you need to match a very high resolution mesh.
ruclips.net/video/PuCwSUPJ16Q/видео.html
I can’t change the appearance from the import. It is orange and seems to be locked.
try Shift + F or go to Inspect > Display Mesh Face Groups. That might be on. If you see a color bar in your timeline and in your browser then you may have put on Component color cycling. turn that off and it should go to whatever apperance you have.
Mesh face groups are helpful if you are trying to convert a mesh to a BREP solid, but other than that they can be a pain.
What did you use to scan the car body part?
The scan was sent to me for that one. It was done with a Creality CR-01 to the bet of my knowledge.
Hi, I purchased a Leica TS50A scanner from an auction online and it didn't include the software. Do you know if it will only operate with the Leica software or is there a generic software that can be used?
I am not sure but the first place I would check is with them directly leica-geosystems.com/en-us/products/laser-scanners/software/leica-cyclone Sometimes the scan software is part of a license package and its possible that is tied to the serial number of your scanner.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign Thank you!
What's the best and least expensive scanner?
That is a tough question. The resolution listed on most of the hobby scanners from places like Revo or Creality seem to be descent. Where you start to run into issues is the distance from the part and compounding accuracy errors when you have to capture multiple positions. The Revopoint Mini is supposed to be the best bridge between pro and hobby, but I think it is still at the kickstarter stage.
My suggestion is to look at a few aspects of this. What do you want to scan/do with the data and what is your budget. If you look at HandyScans, you are in the $20k+ market, but an Einscan is around $5000.
If you want to spend under $1000 I would check out videos on the Revopoint Mini and the Creality CR-Scan 01. See what people are saying about those. If you want to spend a bit more I would look at EinScan.
Last bit to keep in mind, the scan data needs to be processed before it goes into CAD. Think about that as it could be a considerable cost if you are looking at this from a professional perspective. If you are trying to do it all hobby/open source MeshLab is free and powerful but not very user friendly.
I'm making parts based on the body of different Motorcycles will get into cars once I get a few of these products done been hiring people to edit files for me not so bad so far
Gotcha, something you need to think about is how you are making the parts as well. For example if you have a really high quality scanner and software but are using a low res 3d printer to build molds then it is likely not worth the money.
I think something like an Einscan will be a good investment, but maybe to get started the revopoint mini might be a good entry. I have seen some descent scans come out of them.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesignJust thought i'd jump in as a guy who regularly uses 3D scanners for designing motorcycle parts. I'd recommend an Einstar 3d scanner, they're worlds above the likes of the Revopoint Pop 2, and much closer to professional level scanners like the Creality Handyscan 3d black or Einscan HX. That being said for small parts I often design parts around Iphone scans, using the face ID scanner for detailed small parts and the lidar scanner for larger parts like fairings etc where the detail isn't as important. All really comes down to what you need from the scan and how challenging the object is. Don't forget also that scanning spray makes a massive difference.
@@Torques_moto Great info! It is cool to hear you are able to get usable info out of iPhone scans too! I have mentioned the scan sprays in other videos. Some users (like superfastmatt) use babypowder in an alcohol solution in a spray bottle. I have used primer on sacrificial parts. Weld prep spray or dedicated scanner spray gets expensive for sure. If someone rolled in with a new bike to scan, you better believe I would use the scan spray that has no cleanup but a short window to scan. For my own stuff I generally beat sheet metal forms, primer would be fine and then design.
Hi, I have an issue with modeling and I'd like to ask you something, maybe you could help me? How can I reach you or maybe you could text me?
send me an email Support at Caducator.com
That was the slowest, most non exact way to approximate the surface. In no way were vertices of the actual scan used.
There are surfacing tools out there that create surfaces using the scam data far easier. Look at my own vx elements class A Surfacing example.
Thank you for your comment. This video is how to model the fender for a racecar off scan data in Fusion 360. Fusion is not a Class A program nor a mesh/scanning program. Fusion doesn't have the ability to wrap a mesh nicely. Any noise in the mesh creates ripples in the surface. Fusion can snap to the mesh and pull the vertices down to the mesh but that is generally reserved for a very dense high quality mesh or else the results are not great.
A Class A or mesh program that is specifically design to wrap a mesh with a nurbs surface is a different approach. At no point do I say Fusion is the best or only way to do this, but I am showing how to get the best quality result when using Fusion. Fusion is free for Hobby users, VX Elements is not(to the best of my knowledge). Not to mention the user in this case is 3d printing this fender.
So using free software and consumer scanners vs Creaform and VX elements or vx model.
In these videos users send me models they are struggling with and I try to walk them through at a slow pace how to approach the model.
with all this technology and scanners becoming more affordable it boggles me how we have the most rediculous miriad of features but not one program that takes the scanned obj,ply or stl for direct cad,why on earth waste time creating all these redundant tools to essentialy do what the program is supposed to do
There are programs that will "auto surface" scan/mesh data. Solidworks tries. Fusion "can" do this if you have the product design extension (not avail for hobby users). But basically it needs to convert the tri mesh to a quad mesh. If you have a quad mesh you can attempt to directly convert that to a form. What you find is that these types of conversions never offer up ideal geometry.
The Autosurface tools in programs like Geomagic and QuickSurface could get you a surface model, but again you wouldn't have any sort of control/input on the shape. In a case like this I knew the user wanted to make a variation of the fender for their race car and the final was to be 3d printed.
This process seems incredibly stupid. I imagine someday you just scan the part and click print. Why can't software do that currently?
Well you can do that with some things. In scan software you can close a scan but that doesn't really work for thin parts. and then you don't get to modify it. If you scan say a figure that has a flat base on a turntable, you can close it on the bottom and send that mesh right to print.
Ну ты и болтун. 80% видео - лишнее. И, кстати, результат довольно посредственный.
These videos are done to answer users questions on how to do this. The specific case was for a 3d printed race car fender. What about the result was mediocre?